Photograph by Giovanni Giannoni Fashion. Beauty. Business. DAILY EDITION27JUNE2016 Track On FASHION see pages 4to13. For more from the men’s shows, tracksuits style. to sleek this two-button added reminiscent athletic stripes of roller-coasterwith its Van Kris set, Assche energetic DiorHomme show onSaturday ragged panels. stitchingAt his to zip-off extreme from shapes details, anddaring experimented inParis Designers with second life inanage ofstreet chic? —How doyou give thesuit a

PAGE 16 . Vineyard Vines Opensat In the City Pink Whale PAGE 20 to condolobbies inMiami. Karl eye Lagerfeld turnshis Karl’s Kondos On early mornings, Cunningham, who habitually On early mornings,Cunningham,who habitually to bicycle events. he was often his seenriding shows andonthestreets ofNew York where photography,style was afixture at fashion andstreet- knownwho best candid is for his weeks ago, andwas hospitalized. Park onCentral Southapartment about two at theage of87. photographer,Times diedover theweekend ofthepast50years.ists greatest andmostdistinctive fashion journal- much fun.” guilty. Everybody work elsedoes —Ihave too ham saidafew years ago. “That’s why Ifeel so “It’s notwork, it’s pleasure,” BillCunning BY ● A FashionOriginal Bill Cunningham, ATDEAD 87 BY ● In Limbo Puts Industry Brexit Vote BUSINESS dum, theU.K. needsto findanew prime groups. that hasalready hitretailers andfashion to the slowdown further contributing to pullbackeven more onspending, from theEUwillcause consumers associated withtheU.K.’s departure that theupheavalwide. Theconcernis just inEurope butpotentially world- a bigblow to consumer confidence,not —whichlikely is to resultuncertainty in economy andtourism. thing from trade andtravel to theglobal out what itwillhave impact on every digested theresult to andtried figure executivesindustry andjustplainfolks world over theweekend aspoliticians, andaroundout theContinent the created senseoflimbothrough aneerie - Thursday to exit theEuropean Union LONDON

Beloved infashion circles,Cunningham, Cunningham had suffered astroke inhis New YorkCunningham, thelongtime oftheman,one That was typical Following Thursday’s In/Out referen- at themomentis The only certainty voters’British shocking decision The Times. The Times. fashion andstreet for style nearly 40years chronicling The legendary photog spent fear lackofinvestment. short-term gain,butbusinesses A weaker pound willdeliver SAMANTHA CONTIWITHCONTRIBUTIONS W STAFF WITH CONTRIBUTIONSFROM WWD — What now? PAGE 20 with theNew York Ballet. City The activewear maker links Puma Pirouettes AAI THEODOSI NATALIE FROM ALEXANDRA STEIGRADALEXANDRA CONTINUED ONPG. 15 CONTINUED ONPG. 17 - - 1

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BUSINESS vision as us, with a more strategic vision and skills that we slightly lack today,” she added. Duruflé said it was important to them that TOP 5 Isabel Marant in Talks the company remain in French hands, adding that Marant wanted to develop its digital ser- vices and expand into new product categories. TRENDING The company posted wholesale revenues of ON WWD.COM To Sell Majority Stake 150 million euros, or $166.5 million at average exchange rates, in 2015. It has 800 points of ● French investment fund in the hands of Marant, Duruflé and Nathalie sale worldwide, including 22 freestanding bou- Montefiore would acquire Chemouny, the third partner in the French tiques, of which nine are directly operated. fashion label. Duruflé was confirming an The bohemian-chic brand, beloved by 51 percent. unattributed report in French financial daily celebrities such as Kendall and Kylie Jenner, BY JOELLE DIDERICH Les Echos on Friday. has been on a rapid expansion track in recent “We have been in advanced discussions years. Its collaboration with Swedish high- with Montefiore for several months, but noth- street retailer H&M in 2013 further boosted the PARIS — Isabel Marant is in advanced discus- ing is signed,” she said. label’s global profile. sions with French investment fund Monte- “Isabel, Nathalie and I are a little bit self- The deal would be the first investment fiore for the sale of 51 percent of its capital, taught. We have been growing this company in fashion for Montefiore, whose portfolio said Sophie Duruflé, the brand’s managing for more than 20 years, in a very spontaneous, includes budget hotel chain B&B Hotels, car- director. natural and sincere manner. We wanted to be hire broker Auto Escape and marketing and The remaining 49 percent would remain accompanied by people who have the same opinion research firm BVA.

RETAIL in a statement. “These are always tough decisions to make, but in taking a look at the store’s performance and our busi- Nordstrom Plans Closure ness needs into the future, we believe this is the best direction to take. We look forward to serving our loyal Horton Plaza Of San Diego Store customers at our other San Diego stores.” The company has three Nordstroms and four Nordstrom Rack stores else- ● The retailer said the Westfield retailers there include Gap, Express, For- where in the San Diego area, with a Nord- They Are Wearing: Horton Plaza location will ever 21, Bebe and Banana Republic. strom Rack at the Shops at La Jolla Village The store is expected to remain open set to open in October. The company’s Paris Men’s Fashion remain open through Aug. 26. through Aug. 26. Nordstrom at University Town Centre is Week Spring 2017 BY KARI HAMANAKA The company said in a statement that getting an upgrade to its design and will the roughly 180 workers impacted by the move to a new home within the mall next ● They Are Wearing: Paris Men’s planned closure will be offered a position year. Fashion Week Spring 2017. Nordstrom said it will close its Westfield at one of its other stores in the area or be Nordstrom in April said it was making Horton Plaza door, located in San Diego, provided with a “separation plan.” “operating model improvements” that in August. “We’ve been in business at Horton would lead to about $60 million in sav- ● Balmain Men’s Spring 2017 The store, opened in 1985, is one Plaza for 31 years and we’ve loved serving ings for the current fiscal year, via cuts of of the outdoor center’s anchors along our customers here,” said Jamie Nord- between 350 to 400 positions mostly at ● Hermès Men’s Spring 2017 with Macy’s and a movie theater. Other strom, president of stores for Nordstrom, the corporate and regional levels. ● Homme Men’s Spring 2017 RETAIL ● Lanvin Men’s Spring 2017 Cushman & Wakefield Identifies Cool Streets

● The global real estate firm C&W surveyed 100 areas across North such as West Elm, the Brooklyn Nets and connects cool streets with America and came up with the top 15 cool BaubleBar. “Independents, start-ups and Millennial consumers who streets. mom-and-pops have been actively looking,” Williamsburg, Brooklyn, once the ultimate said Spiegelman. “Asking rents range from $75 have rejected shopping malls. cool area, is now in limbo. The neighborhood to $175 per square foot.” began to take shape in the late Nineties, when The fortunes of Logan Square in Chicago BY SHARON EDELSON artists, musicians and the LGBT community (prime hipness on the Hip-O-Meter) have found affordable rents in Williamsburg’s edgy long been tied to its better-known neighbor, Cushman & Wakefield has released “The environs. New restaurants, bars, galleries Wicker Park. As the latter’s rents priced out Global Stock Tracker Cool Streets of ,” in which it and boutiques opened. Rents then began the community, creative types moved to As of close June 24, 2016 warns retailers to ignore hipster neighbor- their upward trajectory. National chains Logan Square. The neighborhood’s momen- hoods at their own peril. moved in and independent retailers were tum is now driven by a thriving dining and ADVANCERS “If retailers live and die by cool, the same priced out. bar scene. American Eagle also holds true of retail properties, shopping Contrary to other opinions, Gene Spiegel- The revitalization of Over-the-Rhine, in Outfitters Inc. centers and entire neighborhoods,” says the man, vice chairman of Cushman & Wakefield, downtown Cincinnati (“up-and-coming” and +3.02% report. Other factors may come into play, said that Williamsburg is “far from over. “the next big thing”), began in 2003, when Target Corp. “but the reality is that cool matters. In an age Although it may be quite pricy, Williamsburg $330 million in public and private resources +1.54% of frugal consumers, e-commerce encroach- is a cool street. Has it gone mainstream? were invested to spur economic development ment and vast gaps in performance between Absolutely. of distressed properties. The result has been Vince Holding Corp. trophy malls and Class B and C centers, cool “It’s in that part of its cycle now,” he added. the opening of more than 130 new businesses. +1.53% matters now more than ever.” “Retail rents are $200 per square foot to $300 Shaw, in Washington, D.C. (“prime hip- Wal-Mart Stores Inc. “This is the first time we decided to focus per square foot. Some of the cool factor has ness”), has been undergoing a revival on sev- +0.70% on this segment of the market,” said Garrick moved on, and national chains moved in. eral fronts. New apartment and condo com- Brown, vice president of retail research for There’s going to be a shakeout there to see plexes, vibrant nightlife and a retail revival Ross Stores Inc. the Americas at Cushman & Wakefield. “Every what really works.” with brands such as Warby Parker and Kit and +0.41% major city has always had its artistic and In general, asking rents in emerging retail Ace are contributing to the asking retail rents DECLINERS creative neighborhoods. We see something districts are one-tenth to one-third less than of $50 to $70 per square foot — and rising. different going on. We’re seeing arts neigh- rents in prime locations, according to Brown. Other cool streets, according to Cushman Avon Products Inc. borhoods becoming flourishing grounds for In the report, each neighborhood is & Wakefield, included Silver Lake in Los -9.20% retailers and almost incubating retailers.” assigned a level on a Hip-O-Meter, which indi- Angeles, Wynwood in Miami, North Loop Fossil Group Inc. Brown said that a new breed of retailers is cates where it is in its development. Sunset in Minneapolis, Roosevelt Row in Phoenix, -9.03% connecting with elusive Millennial customers, Park, Brooklyn, for example, is labeled “edgy Carytown in Richmond, Va., East Village in something that’s not happening in malls, cool” and “in its infancy.” A largely industrial San Diego, Jackson Square in San Francisco, PVH Corp. urban high-street markets such as Fifth Ave- neighborhood since the early 1900s, Sunset Delmar Loop in St. Louis, West Queen West -8.94% nue or Rodeo Drive or Main Streets. Park was in decline until the opening, several in and Mount Pleasant/Main in Abercrombie & Fitch Co. At the heart of the cool-street trend is the years ago, of Bush Terminal Park and the Vancouver. -8.07% “Eventually many neighborhoods will start fact that Millennials consistently display a rehabilitation projects along the waterfront — Ralph Lauren Corp. preference for urban living. In an Urban Land most notably, Industry City. to go toward mainstream appeal,” Brown -7.87% Institute study, about 46 percent of the cohort While names such as Bed Bath & Beyond said. “I don’t think all of them will become chose an urban setting, compared with 24 and Saks Off Fifth aren’t usually associated mainstream neighborhoods. Some of these percent for suburban and 30 percent for rural with cool streets, C&W notes that Industry markets will never have enough density, but environments. City’s office space has been leased to tenants they all can represent laboratories.” Photograph by Kuba Dabrowski Kuba by Photograph 4 27 JUNE 2016

Dior Homme or a messy tumble of red shoelaces threaded The models zoomed through Dior Homme’s through grommets. suspended roller-coaster set so swiftly that one Pants spawned utility pockets, D-rings or side would think they were on skateboards. And they stripes and assumed various guises: from skinny wouldn’t have looked out of place riding them, jeans to wide raver styles. Most clever of all were even though many were wearing suits. two finale banker suits — one skinny, one loose — “Takes on tailoring, but different,” designer Kris each with pinstripes peeling away to become a The Van Assche explained backstage. “I’ve always rebellious fringe of errant threads. liked to mix it with sportswear.” The designer also gave military bombers and Just when one thought athletic influences were blouses fresh verve, adding chevrons here, a running out of breath, Dior Homme gave them a striped polo collar there. Sleek trench coats came second wind — and they looked terrific, from the with the sleeves hacked off, or sprouting a parka stripes running over the sleeves of two-button tail with drawstrings. jackets to the tracksuit chevrons painted with a Dior Homme’s campaign faces A$AP Rocky roller onto suit and coat sleeves. and Rob Pattinson were among VIP guests at Van Assche also blended in references to punk, the show, along with Karl Lagerfeld, who photo- Reviews Goth and New Wave, among the musical camps graphed the “Twilight” actor for the pre-fall cam- when he was a fashion student at the Royal Acad- paign. The German designer, considered one of emy of Art in Antwerp and its biggest amusement Dior Homme’s biggest clients, seemed bemused park was a magnet for all the cool kids. He didn’t by the set and the collection. “I thought it was hold back with the theme, riddling sleek black great — one of his best, if not the best,” Lagerfeld suits with staples; jagged Frankenstein stitching, pronounced. — MILES SOCHA

Dior Homme Photograph by Giovanni Giannoni Giovanni by Photograph 27 JUNE 2016 5

Comme des Garçons want to rethink their wardrobe. Rei Kawabuko worked the collec- Here is a success story: historically, the Comme des Garçons tions in stripes and checks – with boat or sailor-type collars. She Shirt was done for staff only. But the word on the street spread constructed fitted varsity jackets in the same shirt fabrics and quickly and as the category took on whimsical twists and turns, upped the ante on classic Kent collar numbers with camouflage The Reviews cutouts that grew like moss on sleeves, shoulders and pockets, it eventually developed into a stand-alone collection – not to be confused with a diffusion line, mind you. In case one wonders how forming handsomely capricious patterns. Then came the art stuff. many truly relevant takes on a crisp men’s shirt there could be, The brand collaborated with Noah Lyon, printing and his the answer is: many. brutish cartoon figures on graphic shirts and regular sweaters For spring, the styles came in themed packs – from plain that were matched with cropped, balloon-y pants or pajama-type T-shirts with “CDG Shirt boys” written on them to elaborate shirt bermudas, also part of the collection. By the time a series of jackets with loose belt constructions as props. mixed-media collages adorning the shirts’ fronts made their exit, But it was what unfolded in the middle that made one seriously it was hard to pick a winner. — PAULINA SZMYDKE

Comme des Comme des Garçons Garçons

Givenchy solar-plexus chakra and round mirrors Given the shock of the Brexit vote glinting from the hems of polo shirts that coincided with day three of the or the waists of chic black coats. Paris men’s shows, it was hard not the Like Miuccia Prada in Milan, Tisci think of roiling currencies watching rigged his models for some kind of Givenchy’s parade of military parkas journey, backpacks laden with blan- in greenback prints that approximated kets — or split into three laptop-sized camouflage. Shame on us because pouches attached to a harness. Riccardo Tisci had something more The pants, as loose and flowing lofty in mind. “Spirituality, seeing with as sweat pants and often licked with your third eye,” he said backstage. stripes, gave the collection an athletic “Money sometimes makes us forget aspect — as did the chunky, graphic that.” hiking sneakers. While the checker- Overcharged with busy prints — board patterns skewed a bit close to plus zippers and utility pockets galore ’s Damier check, Tisci — this was no zen statement. “It was said the reference was games. “The more like a trip in a spiritual way,” Tisci game of life,” he mused. said. The designer once again embed- The boredom of the one-hour-plus ded his fall couture collection in the wait — blamed on last-minute alter- men’s showcase (for review, see page ations — created a sense of anticlimax 14). that at first was hard to shake, but the Tisci’s message at a delicate junc- open-air show in a vast schoolyard ture for Europe seemed clear: It’s time was ultimately mesmerizing in its flur- for reflection.

Photographs by Giovanni Giannoni and Dominique Maître Giovanni by Photographs ry of pattern, panels peeling off at the — MILES SOCHA 6 27 JUNE 2016

Hermès A loose gray sweater with an open polo collar A men’s show at Hermès carries the promise of a and contrasting white stripes seemed immune to few key ingredients: sumptuous leathers, elegant the passage of time: It could have been lifted from tailoring and an intrepid way with pattern. Véro- a Jacques Henri Lartigue photograph, or spotted nique Nichanian’s spring collection delivered all last week at the Meadow Club. Two-button suits were worn with chunky sandals, signaling a casual The Reviews three in spades, with an impressively light-handed touch. disregard for established rules. The designer worked tissue-thin lambskin into Nichanian took a risk with the sulfur yellow Balmain elegant cardigans, jackets and narrow pants. shade that was the guiding thread of the show. Tie-dye patterns blossomed on filmy silk knits, and The acid-bright color worked its way onto canvas on a cobalt blue shirt in a paisley-printed silk twill. weekend bags and an equine-themed camouflage The haute hippie looks set the casual tone of the print. It was a calculated move: the dissonant note display, which spotlighted that rare and fascinating helped to bring the rest of the tasteful display into breed: the leisure class. sharper focus. — JOELLE DIDERICH

Hermès

Balmain suede along with long and slinky cardigans and Olivier Rousteing, age 30, has 3.4 million followers short, comfy caftans. The women’s looks on Satur- on Instagram and cheekbones for days. He also day’s runway also displayed a wider register, from just launched a collaboration with Nike and was the familiar va-va-voom minidresses crystallized to instrumental in helping Balmain attract a powerful the hilt to a sleek, dead-simple pantsuit, the jacket new owner: Valentino parent Mayhoola for Invest- belted and revealing a sliver of shoulder. ments, which shelled out an estimated 500 million Whether or not Rousteing’s penchant for show- euros, or $556 million, for the Paris fashion house. iness and bling is your cup of tea, there was no His confidence was plain at his show on Satur- mistaking these clothes for anything but Balmain day, which seemed to say to his new bosses: See — his Balmain. In an interview last week to discuss what I can do? For here was a diverse collection, the acquisition, the brand’s chief executive officer the men’s looks spanning everything from fleece Emmanuel Diemoz lauded the “optimistic” quality hoodies and denim leggings to jackets and pon- to the young Frenchman’s designs. One could see chos spangled and bejeweled enough for a pha- what he means in the designer’s upbeat spring raoh — and, indeed, many of the motifs had the vibe display, full of bands of vivid color, flowing silk and of ancient civilizations. twinkling crystals. The collection was inspired by In the same vein as his women’s show in March, beach scenes Rousteing devours on the Instagram Rousteing showed a softer side in his men’s wear, accounts of his model friends — escapism, pure parading similar wrap jackets in sand-colored and simple. — MILES SOCHA Photographs by Giovanni Giannoni Giovanni by Photographs 27 JUNE 2016 7

Paul Smith The Reviews

Kenzo Lanvin Hedonism as an antidote to news-induced angst: The concept worked for the bleary-eyed guests at ’s show on Saturday morning. A high-energy soundtrack of house, concocted by DJ Todd Terry, had the audi- ence grooving in their seats as models in club gear sped past in tight little packs. The look was Nineties redux: Think Windbreakers, baggy pants and visible boxer shorts, in a palette ranging from vibrant blues to box-fresh white and acid yellow. Humberto Leon and Carol Lim said they were inspired by the era’s nightlife — clubs like Sound Factory, Area, Tunnel and Limelight. “In light of everything that’s happening, it’s really excit- ing to celebrate nightlife, which is something that we’ve always been so passionate about, and it’s where people just go and you don’t even think about anything. All you want to do is have fun,” said Leon. Double-zipped funnel neck tops, tucked into high-waist- ed pants, featured wide bands of contrasting fabric across the chest. Voluminous shirts and tops were paired with short shorts, high socks and colorful slides. The duo secured the rights to original club flyers and worked them into busy prints and logo hoodies. Lime yel- low lettering covered a magnified snakeskin pattern, while tops featured names like “Paradise” and “Body and Soul.” The looks nodded to the streetwear trend for reworked Nineties sportswear yet remained distinctly Kenzo, thanks to signature details like oversize eyelets and a new, long- lashed version of the label’s eye motif. These also appeared in the women’s resort collection, which was shown alongside the men’s looks. The eyelets were used on denim jackets and pants, slipdresses and over-the-knee coats cinched with jeweled chains. Cropped leather jackets and A-line minis, worn with wedge boots, brought to mind the Spice Girls – even if Cool Britannia feels like a century ago. — JOELLE DIDERICH

Kenzo

Lanvin The streetwear trend is turning many fashionable men into walking Kindles. Outside venues and inside shows, brands and oblique slogans are splattered all over clothes: “A Cold Wall,” “Fear of God,” “Coming Soon” “Anti Social Social Club” or “Always Be Knolling.” At Lanvin, Lucas Ossendrijver had lines of poetry circling waists: “It doesn’t matter right or wrong,” read one. He also splattered his spring collection liberally with patches, graphic bands, photo prints and symbols, including many arrows. It added up to a Lanvin show that was grittier and busier than usual. Even the socks, often shielded by soft lace-up boots, bore a pattern melding bamboo and cannabis. Backstage, Ossendrijver insisted that in today’s uncer- tain fashion world, all he can offer as a solution is “cre- ativity,” and said he avoids obvious references. “Festivals” was the only thing he would offer. “My goal has always been to make the clothes look like they belong to him,” he said, showing how he dabbed checkered suits with ragged stitching, insets of leather or rubber trim. Paul Smith The tailoring was trim, the classic Ossendrijver is on to something. While the clothes were A Bob Marley medley backed Paul Smith’s two-button styling a foil to the Lifesaver pal- sometimes overcharged, they had individuality to spare spring show, where models loped a rainbow ette, those candy colors repeated on striped and eye-catching detail. Handsome military blousons were runway in snazzy clothes that were just as sweaters and polo shirts. Embroidered jeans sparked with scrolling white embroideries, tank tops had colorful, and occasionally trippy. and T-shirts printed with floral garlands and a spill of fringe around the ribcage, satin bombers were The Caribbean palette and rasta plaids the word Peace added a bohemian flare. covered with airbrushed scenes of oil refineries, and boxy telegraphed an island vibe, even if the While shy on newness, the show charmed camp shirts came with reflective strips, or stripes heading original impulse came from London clubs with its pileups of vivid color and pattern. any which way. the British designer frequented in the Sixties Indeed, some of the models couldn’t stop The silhouettes were mainly generous on top with and Seventies, including the Flamingo Club smiling on the runway, though the upbeat rounded, dropped shoulders, vaguely reminiscent of the and Whiskey-a-Go-Go. clothes and summery soundtrack weren’t Teddy Boys, as they often are with Ossendrijver. Word has “They were always full of an eclectic mix the only reasons. “I was giving everyone a it the Dutch designer, who has already logged a decade at of people. Self-expression was the thing,” shoulder massage on their way out,” the house, is in talks to renew his contract at Lanvin, whose Smith explained backstage, noting he also Smith noted. new women’s designer, Bouchra Jarrar, sat in the front row.

Photographs by Giovanni Giannoni Giovanni by Photographs wished to convey happiness and optimism. — MILES SOCHA She is to show her debut collection this fall. — M.S. 8 27 JUNE 2016

AMI Alexandre Mattiussi The full-leg, pleated trouser with a high waist or Alexandre Mattiussi lightened up for spring. With dropped crotch telegraphed boyish verve and en- all that has been going on in the world and in Paris thusiasm. A printed nylon hoodie or knitted sweater, especially, he felt he had to “bring the energy back, both loosely tucked into bottoms, added pep to the which is really our responsibility,” he told journalists tailoring, while a Seventies color palette and Seven- ties staples spread the period’s fun-loving attitude. The Reviews backstage. The mood was set by models walking past large pristine windows that were gently veiled Cue a synthetic tracksuit in burnt orange with a by breezy curtains as the sun was symbolically belted suede coat in chocolate brown as cover. Off White rising again on the Grand Palais, where the show For the first time there was also a very skinny, was held. Call it “the morning after,” or “waking up very British silhouette composed of slim blue jeans, next to your French lover,” Mattiussi offered. a fitted Chesterfield coat in classic check, styled That lover had an unequivocally Parisian sense with black leather loafers. It was unexpected, but of dressing, one that made the brand a favorite looked fresh and had zing when matched with AMI’s with the city’s cool elite, including women, who have zip-up track jacket. As the designer said: “That too adopted the nonchalant aesthetic, as witnessed by is AMI. I wanted to show that this is a democratic Caroline de Maigret, Lou Doillon and Christine and brand. It’s for everyone.” the Queens sitting front row. — PAULINA SZMYDKE

AMI Alexandre Mattiussi

Off White diagonal stripe motif, which appears on every- Virgil Abloh has often spoken about his desire to thing from sweatshirts to sneakers and socks. He make fashion more inclusive. By posting an open expanded the repertoire this season with a series invitation on Instagram to his Off-White men’s show of intarsia knits and sheer white logo T-shirts, he proved it was not empty talk — even if it meant which were paired with tweed basketball shorts or flouting the guidelines set out by organizers of overlong plaid pants. Paris Fashion Week in light of the state of emergen- Abloh name-checked Oasis frontman Liam Gal- cy in . lagher, who inspired his collaboration with Umbro Luckily, there was no mob scene and no repeat on items including a patchwork plaid flannel top. of the fight that broke out between rapper The- He brought in artist Brendan Fowler, who created ophilus London and stylist Ian Connor at Abloh’s fabric replicas of his stacked photographs that book signing a few days earlier. More than 100 kids were pinned to the front of a hoodie or the back of watched the show standing and later joined the a coat. party backstage. The designer and his contemporaries — among Abloh titled the collection “Mirror Mirror,” saying them Demna Gvasalia and Gosha Rubchinskiy — it was all about appearances. “The whole premise are taking on the establishment by operating in a of the collection is facade. There’s a facade of pack and some crossover between the various every brand, whether it’s a monogram or a logo – lines was apparent in this collection. The kids who something you know,” he said during a preview. thronged the show can’t get enough.

In Off-White’s case, that would be its signature — JOELLE DIDERICH Giannoni Giovanni by Photographs 27 JUNE 2016 9

Thom Browne The Reviews

Sacai Junya Watanabe Maison Martin There were piles of gravel and pile- Plain surfaces are overrated, Jun- Margiela ups of not-always-summery garments ya Watanabe seemed to say with at Sacai’s spring show held in an or- his spring men’s collection, shown angerie at the Jardins du Luxembourg. in a concrete parking garage The dust the models kicked up was plastered with colorful graffiti and echoed in the dry, talcum texture of worn by a cast of heavily tattooed the fabrics and shades ranging from models, to which the designer greige to peony pink. added more ink on limbs, faces and Chitose Abe eased up on her necks. cross-pollination of garments, most “Retro gangsters” was the look splicing knit panels into crispy Wind- he was after, some inspira- breakers, or as the waistband on a tion from the farcical movie “Black shirt in lumberjack plaid. Mexican Cat, White Cat.” The show had a poncho fabrics and other folkloric jazzy vibe heightened by the pork patterns fed the collection’s jumbled, pie hats and the model’s swagger. global wanderer feel. Abe used the The news this season was busy former for toggle coats and slim botanical prints for breezy camp pants that ended in wads of fringe. shirts and Bermudas, and poster The surfeit of technical outerwear, art stenciled onto snazzy alter- a big trend this European season, na-suits, many with shorts in lieu of carried over into the tailoring, done pants. Watanabe also went big for in ripstop nylon with a windowpane faux and real leather for peacoats, check. blazers and padded biker-jacket The designer also paraded eight sleeves grafted onto checkered tai- looks from her women’s pre-spring loring. Occasionally, Watanabe just collection, and these were strong, added a zippered cuff to toughen bearing more of her handwriting. up the tailoring. Abe carved handsome, color-flecked The designer once again used tweeds into off-kilter, apronlike skirts leather elbow patches and fabric and a pert cape that morphed into patchworks on shirt- and jeans- a hooded raincoat from behind. No style jackets, making them feel a dryness here. bit déjà vu. — MILES SOCHA — MILES SOCHA

Sacai Junya Watanabe

Maison Martin Margiela This was a mellow spring offering by Maison Mar- giela, and not just because models were strolling to the soothing tunes of “Last Year’s Man,” deliv- ered by Leonard Cohen. Thom Browne made even the skinniest models look There was cool and carefree tailoring based on Thom Browne opened his show on like professional sumo wrestlers. soft shoulders and insouciantly rolled-up cuffs. a benevolent note. “Good evening Surprisingly, they all turned out to be The elongated jacket of a tranquil suit done up in a everyone,” the designer’s voice onesies. Prince of Wales check was gently enveloped by a resounded from backstage. “This is Later, a second layer revealed a ribbon, while a run of fluid trenchcoats came with Thom Browne. Please take a moment flurry of formal men’s ensembles. Cue slightly bell-shaped sleeves favoring freedom of of silence for the incomparable Bill a lemon yellow Mackintosh with bold movement over conventions. Cunningham,” he asked in honor of hibiscus embroideries; a white linen Sending out more conceptual silhouettes, the Julien David the late New York Times photogra- suit jacket, also embroidered, and design team conjured some interesting alterna- pher who died Saturday. jacquard shorts, all adding up to one tives that could easily resonate with a younger Shortly after, the opening notes look. Elsewhere, the wetsuits came in and more moody consumer. Cue exposed basting of “Jaws” marked the beginning of a the shape of silk duchesse tailcoats; stitches on suit jackets, which turned the crafty well-rehearsed performance involving cashmere, seersucker or mink jack- handwork into decoration, adding an edgy vibe to a shark (cue a model circling imagi- ets; tweed and raffia overcoats, and an old-man’s staple. nary waters in a shark mask and an rubber cardigans to name just a few The unfinished constructions also upped the extra-extra-drop crotch suit with the of Browne’s witty combinations. ante of shirts, some of which were patched to- predator’s fin attached to the back); a With one pull of the zip, models gether from contrasting fabrics — chambray, knit desert island, rendered in the brand’s took those off, too, to give full view of and poplin — or were buttoned instead of sewn, ac- signature grey hues (or perhaps it a series of colorful intarsia-knit swim- centuating the season’s do-it-yourself spirit. When was just a volcanic island), and a suits, before they hit the waves with styled with athletic tear-away pants and folded whole bunch of models. their custom-made Thom Browne loafers, they oozed a fresh, youthful vibe. The guys They would change three times. surfboards. “Yes, they will be for sale,” look as if they had just crawled out of bed, though The sartorial collection essentially the designer confirmed backstage, one had to admire their quick-wittedness to put on riffed off a surfer’s wet suit, and if one with the shark still looming in the clothing that actually made sense regardless of thought the new Balenciaga power shallow waters. its rugged, yet never random character. — P.S. Sacai photograph by Dominique Maitre; All others by Giovanni Giannoni Giovanni by All others Dominique Maitre; by Sacai photograph suits were boxy, think again. Browne’s — PAULINA SZMYDKE 10 27 JUNE 2016

Y-3 The Reviews

Officine Generale Ann Quintessential Parisian style is often summed up with Demeulemeester the phrase “je ne sais pas quoi,” which essentially refers to an attitude of carelessness paired with subtly calcu- lated risk. It’s a paradox, but a fascinating one, and Pierre Mahéo, himself a Left Bank resident, usually captures it in his collections. But the designer admitted that, for spring, he needed a little boost from a friendly neighboring country. “I had a hard time putting myself in the summer mood. Go figure why,” he wrote in his show notes, adding how the somber mood in Paris following the city’s tragic events and the constant threats “left a bitter taste in my mouth.” In April, voluntarily exiled himself “to a little piece of heaven in Tuscany” to find inspiration. The cuts were clearly in Officine Generale’s territory — charming pleats over loose hips as seen on cropped carrot trousers, fitted suede jackets with a workwear zest, and no-nonsense knits. But the fabrics took cues from the Italian sun. Among the standouts were beautiful, indigo-washed seersucker used for light summer tailoring; a few palm-tree prints on sheer, open shirts, and striped pajama tops, which Mahéo assured would be equally at home on the beach and the street. Elsewhere, the designer stuck to his formula of trans- seasonal dressing, sending out outerwear pieces that were done up in ’s water-repellent storm sys- tem, such as a lean, tailored trench in silk-wool, styled with black velvet slippers from Venice. Travels inspire, without a doubt. — PAULINA SZMYDKE

Officine Generale

Ann Demeulemeester Sébastien Meunier wore his heart on his sleeve with his collection for Ann Demeulemeester, which made ample Y-3 and neat – exalting the purposeful nature use of visual imagery. “I hate that we have to wait for the future. of military uniforms — or large and envelop- The sentence “I am red with love” was embroidered on I want the future now. I don’t want to wait,” ing, including handsome capes, some with sheer tops or spelled out on the back of a long cardigan. Yohji Yamamoto mused backstage, wearing honeycomb textures. Delicate chiffon or silk panels, featuring blotchy ink draw- his trademark fedora and cloaked in his usu- IV tubes poking out of surgical green ings or an embroidered phoenix-like bird, were tied across al smoky black layers. But on his feet were a smocks and boiler suits were disquieting. the body like flags — or declarations of the wearer’s state pair of NOCI 0003s, a sleek new high-top to Geometric elements telegraphed the theme of mind. rival the Air Mag in “Back to the Future.” more subtly, from origami ruffles suspended They punctuated a lineup that drew heavily from punk The shoes, made in collaboration with from tank dresses to oversized shirts with imagery, with bondage pants and open weave sweaters Adidas, accompanied a futuristic, borderline plackets resembling airlock doors. For the that were tufted with tiny strips of black chiffon or slim clinical collection sent down a blinding white finale came three outfits with built-in fans feathers. The latter also dangled from the loose strands of corridor that would not look out of place in that inflated as the lights pulsed. pearls that accessorized many of the looks. a “Prometheus” sequel. The clothes for men In another context, these clothes will When he didn’t go punk, Meunier channeled a “Wuther- and women were mostly black, in spongy simply look cool worn for urban pursuits, ing Heights” romanticism, with billowing silk shirts and or sooty textures, and often telegraphed including dog walking. Every morning, a military jackets cinched with wide obi belts. And therein dystopia, accessorized with face-obscuring sneaker-shod Yamamoto takes his Akita, lay the rub: The designer, who took the reins of the label in hoods or visors, drinking (or breathing?) named Ryn, for a 40-minute stroll. “She only 2014, still seems torn between allegiance to the founder tubes snaking from backpacks into the loves me,” he smiled.. and a sincere urge to write a story of his own.

mouth. The shapes pinged between strict — MILES SOCHA — JOELLE DIDERICH Dominique Maître by Giannoni; All others Giovanni by photograph Officine Generale 27 JUNE 2016 11

Wooyoungmi Wooyoungmi Woo Youngmi and her daughter Katie Chung took a cue from artist Sol Le- Witt for spring. “Our starting point was to bring graphic, geometric patterns into the collection,” said Chung. “We The Reviews tried to make it elegantly artistic.” Their looks with soft silhouettes of various proportions were chockablock Pigalle Paris Christian Dada with layers of eye-catching checks and curvy prints. The designers also successfully played contrasting fab- rics off one another, like heavy cotton and soft silk. The least-complicated ensem- bles — such as a brown jacket over checked sweater and pants, or a black blazer paired with striped trousers and a blue-and-white shirt — were the strongest, while the wide trousers were on trend. However, the sometime extreme mash-up of prints and pants-shorts combination tended to detract, rather than enhance, the collection. — J.W.

White Mountaineering Yosuke Aizawa’s collection was divided into two parts – his own for White Mountaineering, followed by his collaboration with Adidas Originals, now in its third season. Strong graphics dominated the first part, starting with tropical fruit White and a deep-green jungle thicket, which Mountaineering gradually turned quieter via ethnic Asian and pointillist camouflage pat- terns. They proved a good counterbal- ance to a set of streetwear essentials, including raincoats, sweatshirts and boxy shorts, but also bowling shirts and lounge carrot pants. Through- out, the lineup oscillated between dressy and sporty, and while seeing a hooded anorak in technical fabric next to a bathrobe-y coat in cotton and linen took some getting used to, this was meant to be a pick-and-choose collection, with Aizawa wishing to reference “all summer activity,” as he put it backstage. The Adidas outing impressed with an injection of color and bold three- stripe visuals forming a smart “W” on short-sleeved hoodies with elegantly rounded shoulders, and modern en- sembles that layered a pair of shorts with kilt-like fronts, in one instance. Windbreakers, track tops and crew sweats complemented the seasons. “I see it as a uniform for the street - one you can really wear - which is not precious and which you don’t have to protect,” noted Nic Galway, vice president of global design for Adidas Originals, branding the term “urban Pigalle Paris mobility.” Stéphane Ashpool is feeling romantic. The founder of The executive also pointed to three streetwear label Pigalle Paris invited guests to the pictur- new footwear styles, which made their esque garden of the Musée de Montmartre for a wedding Sean Suen debut on Saturday: the EQT Support party that saw him tying the knot in a symbolic ceremony Future, whose older cousin helped with his girlfriend, jewelry designer Marissa Seraphin. rebuild the brand during a tough time Ashpool kitted out his usual cast of models, musicians in the Nineties and is now a collectors’ and friends in pastel-colored best man outfits. With a favorite; the NMD Trail, featuring a twirl, a swagger or a gentlemanly hand-kiss, they ambled more rugged sole and protective toe, through the crowd of editors, family and friends in the and the R2, the newest member of the brand’s signature dandified sportswear. NMD family, with a clean aesthetic “I was looking at the way men dressed when I was a and an inside support layer. — P.S. child. The first time I got properly dressed up was at my parents’ wedding when I was seven years old. That left an impression on me,” Ashpool said before the show. Sean Suen Jersey Bermuda shorts came ribbed or quilted, some For his Paris debut, Sean Suen with splits up the sides. Silky shirts were layered with fine played with volumes, letting it loose knits, while some jackets were overlaid with sheer latex at the bottom and often contracting vests for a soft-focus effect. on top. This worked well on lounge-y, Among the guests was Bruno Pavlovsky, president striped pajama looks matched with of Chanel fashion and of Paraffection, the division that Christian Dada silk bathrobe coats, as well as a run houses its specialty ateliers. Pavlovsky has been mento- Christian Dada designer Masanori Morikawa said he had of voluminous Bermuda shorts, which ring Ashpool since Pigalle Paris won the ANDAM Fashion Yoko Ono, John Lennon and peace in mind while creating in one instance were styled with a Award last year, and Chanel-owned houses including his spring collection. “I was thinking about life and death,” fitted utility jacket over a crisp white featherer Lemarié and embroiderer Lesage worked on the he continued. tunic, both cut in handsomely rounded collection. In keeping with the theme, Morikawa injected military shapes. The couturelike touches, which also included bead references, such as combat jackets, chevron detailing, The volumes proved too generous necklaces from Goossens, accentuated the gender fluid epaulets and cargo-style trouser. where fabrics were too soft and fluid feel of the collection, in particular on a pale lilac tie-dyed Counterbalancing these were some smart sartorial to keep the silhouettes in place, as coat with side insets of pleated fabric made by specialist ensembles, always with a twist, like the black-and-white, was the case with a monochrome house Lognon. double-breasted striped jacket with a denim collar and the grey ensemble composed of elephan- Ashpool said Pavlovsky is also advising him on the black deconstructed top with sleeves festooned with me- tine trousers and an elongated, flat opening of a training center in Paris through which he tallic brocade. Written phrases popping up, like “Imagine” top. hopes to pass on the passion for handcrafts to a new or “Don’t Make Any Noise,” mitigated the army vibe. The collection was at its best when generation. “I think I’m a very good link between the street But the bulk of the collection was urbanwear – think Suen kept it simple in moderate, con- and fashion, and Bruno has understood that,” he said. fitted trousers, sweatshirts and striped shirts. The toned- trolled cuts and rendered in natural down toughness worked well this season. — JENNIFER WEIL

Pigalle Paris, White Mountaineering and Sean Suen photographs by Giovanni Giannoni; All others by Dominique Maître by Giannoni; All others Giovanni by and Sean Suen photographs Mountaineering White Pigalle Paris, — JOELLE DIDERICH fabrics. — P.S. 12 27 JUNE 2016

Berluti “Ladies and gentlemen: welcome to Berluti’s boot camp. Please join us for a jump rope champion- ship,” a voice announced through the loudspeakers, as guest started to arrive at the brand’s “poolside The Reviews party” set in a Parisian rose garden. Sandro There also were table tennis, hook-a-duck, Sandro weight lifting, a skateboard slalom and a soccer Ilan Chetrite channeled a nautical training session. Models (sun)bathed at a (fake) vibe with his spring collection for pool, where a sign read “Lifeguards on duty: No flirt- Sandro, with wide ankle-length pants ing.” Fries and burgers vanished from food trucks and striped short-sleeved sweaters faster than the free alcohol — or that one could say that had a whiff of the Forties — think “medium” or “rare” — while Donna Summers’ “Hot Gene Kelly in “Anchors Aweigh.” Stuff” pumped from the loudspeakers. All that was The trouser cut carried through missing was a six-pack contest, which would have into high-waisted jeans with wide been a tough discipline viewing the athletic cast hems that were trend-conscious — and a new designer. The brand clearly thought enough to stand out from the high all the “fun” could compensate for the absence of street, without requiring a Ph.D. in one following the departure of Alessandro Sartori fashion. earlier this year for Ermenigildo Zegna. As a result, “Our job at Sandro is to offer Berluti’s spring collection was a design team effort, clothes that are wearable, not too riffing off the brand’s signatures Sartori helped experimental,” Chetrite explained. establish: the traveler blouson, featuring an inside “With this collection, we wanted to back pocket, this time rendered in butter-soft show a more dressed-up guy. He’s lambskin; the jersey-knit polo; the denim field more mature.” jacket; knitted blazers so thin they could pass for The vintage vibe carried through shirts, and a series of hybrids from the accesso- into a Fifties-style, red silk zip-up ries department, such as a new skateboard trainer jacket with front pockets, and a called Matteo. The style was neatly cut from one brown leather car coat in a dis- piece of the house’s signature Venezia leather on a tressed patina that was matched on chunky brogues. For a more casual vulcanized rubber sole. — PAULINA SZMYDKE look, the label offered cropped track pants with a signature “S” embroi- Acne dered over one hip. — JOELLE DIDERICH

Faith Connexion Riffing on the growing popularity of personalization in fashion, Faith Connexion took its heavily distressed interpretation of street style to new levels of unorthodoxy for spring. Jonathan Anderson, whose range as a designer runs from rustic to futuristic, was in full-on organic The design collective set its sights on the punk and grunge movements, mode creating Loewe’s spring men’s collection. Faith Connexion There was enough driftwood on the necklaces to with a bit of Americana thrown in for clog a culvert, and enough rumpled linen for five good measure, offering up a cha- summers in Ibiza. otic, colorful array of loud, clashing The accompanying photo book set the mood: creations that are oh-so now, though two young models adrift on a small yellow cata- not for the faint-hearted. maran, their heads wrapped in pirate scarves, feet Camouflage cargo pants and shod in croc slippers. parkas in an array of shapes and Anderson captured the summer idyll of Ibiza and sizes; cargo harem pants in a red- the eccentric dress codes of locals in his languid and-white-striped silk-cotton blend, shirts dangling streamers and little pouches; long or khaki suede; leather and suede boxing trunks in buttery leather; cropped rain jackets with lace or fringe details; jackets in bright yellow, and plain gray cardigans, outsized, heavily crumpled and the hems dipped in gold. selectively bleached check shirts; The designer sees craft at the root of the Span- scruffy tie-dye T-shirts, and baggy ish house, and one could feel it in every piece, from sweaters with almost more holes gleaming shackle bracelets to a backpack woven than knit were all given the Faith Connexion treatment. Animal prints, from faded shredded denim. — MILES SOCHA metallic studs and gemlike appliquéd beads offered a touch of glam rock, the latter as on a lilac silk jacket that Loewe looked custom-designed for David Bowie at his flamboyant height, while a distressed velvet pastel leopard-print gilet would have been perfect for a rave circa 1989. Graffiti artist Pisco Logik collabo- rated again on a range of hand-paint- ed designs, including a leather jacket emblazoned with the Union Jack flag, while the brand tied up with Italian denim up-cycling label NTMB Never Too Much Basic on articles like denim jackets and shorts with appliquéd denim stars. Rock ’n’ roll, baby. — ALEX WYNNE

Pierre Hardy Pierre Hardy Could Pierre Hardy be suffering from a (very) creative form of Acne schizophrenia? His men’s collection “It never rains in California,” went the Seventies for spring, with its hybrid combi- ditty. Unfortunately, cold rain does fall in Sweden, nations of different shoe types, often in summertime, which is why Jonny Johans- could suggest as much. One design son made waterproof jackets the centerpiece of paired a classic black derby back his spring collection for Acne Studios. with a brown brogue front — with the Big and tentlike, the coats had an A-line shape attention to detail extending to the accentuated by sturdy fabrics and side zips from two-tone sole. A loafer tongue was the armpit on down. Big collars heightened their placed on a crossover sandal in an- ungainliness. other design, while boat shoes were Johansson, who has a cottage previously owned given sneaker soles and babouche by Ingmar Bergman on Torö, an island in the Stock- slippers were adapted for evening in holm archipelago, also used glazed patterns ripped a colorful brocade-effect leather. “It from outdoor tablecloths for boxy blousons. was fun to do,” Hardy said. “Concep- Standout items included jersey pants with tually, it’s fantastic, but technically, white side zips, loosely knit sweaters with rag-rug it was a real challenge. [It’s about] airs and loose cotton shorts. This was a crisp and offering different combinations and charming offering and Johansson acknowledged putting things together that aren’t the collection’s nostalgic heart. — M.S. supposed to match.” — A.W. 27 JUNE 2016 13

Les Benjamin’s The Kooples With an appealing mix of streetwear and ethnic Partnership was the name of the game for The references, Istanbul-based Bunyamin Aydin trav- Kooples for spring. The Parisian label, which hosted eled to the Sahara for spring, incorporating Tuareg a presentation during Paris Men’s Fashion Week for and North African designs and inspirations into his the first time, is expanding its conceptual universe collection, for which he staged a Paris presentation The Reviews from (ad)dressing couples to celebrating duality in for the first time. a broader sense — via siblings, business partners The zebra pattern was given an up-to-date spin Longchamp Longchamp and the like. Whoever said Longchamp was a women’s brand? The on denim harem shorts — a new shape repeated One such pairing is that of The Kooples’ co- Parisian label, founded in 1948, is putting a greater focus throughout the collection — and matching jacket, founder and creative director Alexandre Elicha and on its masculine roots and has set the opening of its while a traditional carpet pattern was a surprising actor and designer Waris Ahluwalia, who was the first men’s store for October this year, right opposite its addition on the back of a simple white bomber jack- muse for the collection. The result is a bohemian flagship on Rue Saint-Honoré. et. Traditional face painting was another dominant offering inspired by traveling across Asia, especial- “The house of Longchamp started in a masculine print, mixed with zebra stripes in black and white on ly India, exploring opulent textiles and fluid, elongat- universe,” creative director Sophie Delafontaine, the sleeves of a leather perfecto, for example, while ed shapes in a rich palette of colors like terracotta, granddaughter of the label’s founder Jean Cassegrain, a gauzy printed rain jacket evoked the swirling burgundy, khaki and bronze. explained at the brand’s first men’s presentation on colors of the desert for an urban setting. This was subtly punctuated with elements of the Thursday. — ALEX WYNNE label’s rock ’n’ roll origins with details like skulls as “It was originally a tobacconist, and my grandfather buttons and beads on jackets and tassled belts. started working with leather by making leather-clad pipes Les Benjamin’s Bermudas were made of black satin and worn before developing a range of goods around the smoking with a long, dangling belt, while a russet jacquard world, then desk items and men’s leather goods. Luggage blouson was adorned with a luxuriant leaf pattern. came next in the late Sixties and early Seventies, and Striped khaki and bronze linen was used for pants the first women’s bag only launched at the end of the and a jacket, giving them a luxurious yet relaxed Seventies,” Delafontaine said. “From then on, the women’s feel accentuated by long, thin tassled scarves. business became the focus. Suiting was also given an Eastern spin, as in a “We really wanted to put the focus back on men,” Kashmir-patterned collarless jacquard ensemble she continued. “We have been reworking the men’s worn without a shirt and tied at the waist with a A.P.C. collections for the past few seasons.” The brand has also black leather cord. The Nineties skateboard culture A.P.C. founder been working on dedicating spaces to men’s lines in its Accessories came by way of snakeskin Jean Touitou referenced in relation to the label’s boutiques around the world, said Delafontaine. babouche slippers and pointed derbies, as well spring collection for men was less than obvious, The spring 2017 collection for men includes two new as jewelry designed in partnership with Aaron Jah but what the collection did offer was a charming lines, a minimalist range in smooth calfskin and another Stone and eyewear by Lotho. — A.W. proposition of relaxed shapes and washed-out in grained taurillon leather. More sporty items include a colors that verged on dusty pastels, giving them backpack made from Kudu antelope suede and updated canvas designs with pops of color, one of the house’s The Kooples masculine appeal. Less preppy than the label’s recent collections, signatures in its women’s collections. the collection focused heavily on baggy overalls “We’ve added lots of color, which was less the case in a range of washed-out denim or railway-striped in the men’s designs before, to add a touch of fantasy,” canvases. These were paired with loose ribbed Delafontaine said. sweaters printed tone on tone so they looked to be There will also be an exclusive line for the new men’s bleached by the sun and wide shirt-style jackets boutique inspired by Delafontaine’s grandfather’s designs with a workwear feel. There were still elements of from the Seventies. the almost gauche rigidity that has become part of Longchamp’s Paris flagship is undergoing renovations the brand’s geek-chic signature, nevertheless, as and will reopen in August in an expanded space of nearly in a pair of midlength waterproof fabric shorts or a 6,000 square feet, up from 2,700. It will include a whole Prince of Wales check Oxford coat. — A.W. floor for the brand’s ready-to-wear and footwear lines. Across the road, more than 2,000 square feet will be dedicated to men’s collections, with an offer including Helbers gloves, scarves, belts and men’s shoes, which the brand Paul Helbers is turning into a specialist for is introducing this fall, as well as its broader leather goods off-duty elegance. For his sophomore effort, the offer. — A.W. Paris-based designer, whose résumé includes stints at Martin Margiela and Louis Vuitton, parad- ed a wardrobe based on unfussy constructions A.P.C. that softly steered away from trendy obsessions. Palm Angels A dry linen suit jacket came with goat instead of horse hair lining, which softened it for the summer but enabled it to keep a solid shape around the shoulders. Multipleated pants were worn loosely with rolled-up hems, while cropped chinos sported practical double pockets. “It’s such a nasty thing when you sit down and everything falls out,” com- mented Helbers, revealing his attention to detail. Comfort was also high on his list, as witnessed by a run of joggers. Shown with contrasting cotton-linen patches, they added a graphic punch to this calm collection rendered in an organic palette of grays, blues and whites. — PAULINA SZMYDKE

Ungaro

Helbers

Palm Angels Ungaro Creative director Francesco Ragazzi gleaned in- Philippe Paubert revved up the creativity levels at Unga- spiration for his youthful and cheerful spring men’s ro with the label’s second full men’s collection, putting an collection from a picture appearing his Rizzoli pho- Oceania-inspired ethnic twist on its men’s wear staples, tography book on California skateboard subculture, giving them a bohemian elegance. called — like his fashion label — “Palm Angels.” The juxtaposition of textures and materials was key, “It’s a skater guy that reminded me of Jimi Hen- as in linen jackets for evening with classic tuxedo collars, drix,” said Ragazzi, who then asked himself: “What’s which could be paired with not-quite-matching jacquard the modern festival today? Glastonbury, Coachel- waistcoats with a ribbon edge. These were available in la…I tried to start out with the idea of kids leaving traditional masculine colorways like navy or in a more school and heading to a concert.” extravagant, earthy palette of burnt orange and khaki. The His very wearable collection opened with collection also took in paler shades like white and sky blue sportswear and preppy looks — shorts, tracksuits for summer, as in a linen-cotton blend chenille jacket that and blazers — that increasingly got a higher, hip offered a summery alternative to velvet and white casual quotient with boilersuits and loungewear. Giving a pants with subtle flecks of color in the weave. nod to full-on festival wear were jackets with fringe The use of tweed-type weaves and flecked linens or fur and pieces emblazoned with rainbow hues. could have verged on old-fashioned, but Paubert “There are a lot of references from ’69, the managed to pull them into contemporary shape with a Seventies, Vietnam,” explained Ragazzi. dandyish appeal. Comfort was key thanks to the integra- The strongest showings involved a clash of tion of elastane and jersey in many pieces. decorative elements, such as a camo jacket with Pops of bright color were provided, meanwhile, by way Kama Sutra horoscope patches paired with floral of a print inspired by the label’s vintage silk scarf designs, trousers and a tiger-striped pom-pom hat. used as a lining for jackets and on the back of a waistcoat for an element of surprise. — A.W.

Les Benjamin’s and Palm Angels photographs by Dominique Maître by Angels photographs and Palm Benjamin’s Les — JENNIFER WEIL 14 27 JUNE 2016

Givenchy Couture Fall 2016 Givenchy’s Riccardo Tisci once again embedded his women’s fall couture collection in his men’s showcase, leapfrogging the high fashion 2016 season by more than a week. Goddess gowns with elaborate pleats and draping, at times ap- proximating fancy icing, captivated in their monochrome simplicity, animated here and there with silvery or mirrored embroideries. Crisscross bodices and strapless styles predominated, the fireworks coming from a fringe of jet beads around the bosom or cascading ruffles framing the hips. Chic mannish tailoring with layers peeling away to reveal mirrored embroideries echoed the men’s styles. — MILES SOCHA Photographs by Giovanni Giannoni Giovanni by Photographs 27 JUNE 2016 15

Bill Cunningham Bill Cunningham, “I don’t even know if this new generation of photog- raphers even knows the imprint of Bill’s work,” Ton A Fashion Original continued. “He loved clothes, that’s what mattered. It wasn’t about if someone was a celebrity or what they CONTINUED FROM PAGE 1 were wearing. He was interested in telling a story with his pictures. He saw things that no one else could see.” “He was a cultural anthropologist: The fact that he was willing to stand in the cold or ride his bike, sported a blue button-down smock, would be spotted the numerous times I heard he was injured – he once snapping photos of fashion-forward passersby on Fifth was hit by a truck, or car rolled over his face,” said Avenue near Bergdorf Goodman. Ton. “What was his famous quote? ‘Money is cheap, His passing was immediately felt in the fashion com- freedom is the most expensive luxury.’” munity. Before his men’s show began in Paris Sunday The French fashion and society photographer Jean- night, Thom Browne spoke on the PA system and said: Luc Huré called Cunningham an “extraordinary” man, “Good evening everyone. Before we start, I thought it “a little ascetic.” “He paid for his flights and photo would be appropriate to observe a moment of silence labs to keep his freedom,” said longtime friend, Huré. for the incomparable Bill Cunningham.” “He had an ethic that we shared. He was making no Backstage after the show, Browne told WWD: “He compromises. He was discreet and shy.” was the original...I think he meant so much to people Huré recalled having lunch with Cunningham, and who didn’t even realize. It’s not just that he was around fans would come to take photos with him. “His face for so long, he was just the pure version of what is would become very red, and he was very embarrassed. going on today in reverse to people just taking pictures He would tell them that I was the real photographer on the streets and bloggers and all of that. He just and therefore that I was the one to shoot,” said Huré. cared about being behind the camera, not becoming “When he lived in his pocket-sized apartment in the celebrity himself, which made him even more of a , he slept on a cot with boxes of negatives celebrity.” underneath and everywhere – in the bath, in the Although Cunningham’s status had grown in fridge.” nonfashion circles, following the release of the 2011 “He didn’t come to Paris during the last two documentary “Bill Cunningham New York,” the pho- seasons, because of his eyes. His surgeon told him tographer generally eschewed the spotlight, preferring — rightly – not to fly. But I was hoping to see him in to be “invisible,” as he told WWD in 2008 during a October,” he said. retrospective of his work. A desk attendant in Cunningham’s new building — That year, Cunningham had been honored with where he moved after Carnegie Hall — remembered France’s L’Ordre National des Arts et des Lettres in Cunningham fondly. Paris where he teared up and spoke about his career “I used to put eye drops in his eyes, right here in the and love of fashion, offering: “I’m not interested in lobby!” he said. “Bill didn’t care.” celebrities with their free dresses. Look at the clothes, Others chimed in that they were surprised when the cut, the silhouette, the color. It’s the clothes. Not people would visit the building to ask if Bill Cunning- the celebrity and not the spectacle.” ham lived there. Rick Owens was among designers including Sonia “Him?” joked one attendant, who remembered a Rykiel and Gareth Pugh who attended Cunningham’s time when Renée Zellweger inhabited the building Legion of Honor ceremony. “I remember tearing up years earlier. “Renée, I would understand.” when he spoke about his primary purpose being the But building staff began reading about Cunningham pursuit of beauty in a trembling cracking voice,” he and some even watched the documentary. recalled. “And then when Jean-Luce Huré, his French Soon, like others in the building, they realized equivalent, embraced him with them both in tears.… Cunningham was special. They talked about how Well, I am tearing up right now, just thinking about it.” he’d always wheel his large bike in the lobby, and “He was very popular, just as much in Paris as in sometimes sport a tuxedo for late-night occasions; how New York. He was very modest. He didn’t always have he could “get into any fancy party,” and how he’d “just the best seat [at fashion shows], but was always in a chain up” his bike out front before walking in. Above great mood. He loved fashion in an incredible way until all, they spoke about what a sweet person Cunningham the end. He jumped for joy after a show he liked,” said Gaultier, began his journalism career working for coat in the snow during New York Fashion Week. was and how two of his close friends, who moved from Didier Grumbach, then president of the Fédération WWD under John B. Fairchild, who had just returned “They were magnificent,” she said. “He called me ‘my the Carnegie apartments to the new building, had Française de la Couture, du Prêt-à-Porter des Couturi- from Paris to New York, and later The Chicago Tribune child.’ ‘How are you, my child?’ When you’re a grand- recently passed away, which was a tough blow for him. ers et des Créateurs de Mode, who awarded Cunning- before joining The Times. mother, it’s nice to be called ‘my child.’ He was maybe “He was so humble,” said the doorman, who found ham the French legion of honor. His first big break came when he took a chance the only person in the fashion world that everyone — Cunningham in his apartment unresponsive on a It’s Grumbach who asked the French culture photo of Greta Garbo, who wore a plain nutria coat without exception — liked. He’ll be greatly missed.” Monday. It was believed that Cunningham suffered a ministry to make Cunningham a knight of the Legion that had a silhouette that caught his eye. Cunningham Street style photographers outside the Lanvin men’s stroke on a Saturday night, and concerned neighbors of Honor. “He did a lot for Paris. He attended the first confessed he didn’t notice who he was photographing, show in Paris on Sunday morning in Paris expressed alerted the building when the photographer’s door was Christian Dior show in 1947; he saw the beginning of but his editors at The Times did. He showed his editor their sadness about Cunningham’s death. left ajar. Yves Saint Laurent, the beginning of ready-to-wear. He Arthur Gelb a trove of similar photos he had snapped, Adam Katz Sinding, whose Le 21ème blog counts At The New York Times, where Cunningham spent was a witness like almost no other.” which Cunningham said in a 2002 piece for The Times 446,000 Instagram followers, said: “I got to spend a his days, publisher Arthur Sulzberger Jr. offered: In an industry characterized by extravagance, called “Bill on Bill” included “Cornelius Vanderbilt day in New York with him at the Cloisters. I was on “Bill was an extraordinary person with an incredible status and largess of oversize egos, Cunningham, who Whitney, the king and queen of Spain and a Kennedy a train with my ex-girlfriend and he was there. We talent not just for fashion photography but for life. His chronicled the fashion industry for The Times since in a fox coat.” walked with him the whole day, and he was telling company was sought after by the fashion world’s rich the late Seventies, was something of an anomaly for his Cornelia Guest, daughter of C.Z. Guest, recalled us about the Rockefeller parties that he used to shoot and powerful yet he remained one of the kindest, most singular, almost monastic focus on the clothing, not the her first encounter with Cunningham. “I was a little there. Everything that I said to him, I had to repeat two gentle and humble people I have ever met. We have personalities. girl and I met him for the first time with my mother,” or three times because he couldn’t hear. But it was very lost a legend and I am personally heartbroken to have Karl Lagerfeld remarked on that and Cunningham, she told WWD. “We were coming out of FAO Schwartz cool [to get to spend the day with him]…I knew who he lost a friend.” the man. “Poor Bill. He was such a mysterious person,” and he took our picture. I have known him all my life. was at the time I started this [street style photography]. Executive editor Dean Baquet praised Cunning- he said. “I met him with Antonio Lopez and Juan He was always ‘Mr. Cunningham’ and he always called He created the whole thing. There’s no question.” ham’s work ethic and approach to his job, adding: “He Ramos around 1970; I had always the feeling they were me ‘child.’ He was a true gentleman and he made the “He was wonderful, always smiling, curious about was a hugely ethical journalist. And he was incredibly his closest friends. Everybody liked him but he was world a better place.” everything, passionate and so humble!” said Sarah open-minded about fashion. To see a Bill Cunningham not into social life and had no other close friends. No In a 2002 article, “The Picture Subjects Talk Back,” Andelman, creative director and purchasing manager street spread was to see all of New York. Young people. dinners, nothing. He appeared and disappeared after by Cathy Horyn, Gelb called the photographs a “turn- of Colette, who also praised his “unique eye and Brown people. People who spent fortunes on fashion he had done his job. Not many people knew where and ing point” for Cunningham. incredible sense of observation.” and people who just had a strut and knew how to put how he lived; he was an extremely discreet person. “It gave him recognition beyond fashion,” Gelb “I asked him to do an exhibition. He would always an outfit together out of what they had and what they His presence will be missed. What will happen to his said. “And his street photography was a breakthrough politely answer yes, but clearly he didn’t want to be found.” incredible archive?” for The Times, because it was the first time the paper in the spotlight,” she continued. She said she always Director of photography Michele McNally, who Readers of The Times experienced that passion in had run pictures of well-known people without getting thought that he should do a book of his photography. worked closely with Cunningham, said: “Bill was an Cunningham’s columns “Evening Hours” and “On their permission. The Times had always been prissy “When the documentary [‘Bill Cunningham New extraordinary man, his commitment and passion the Street,” which included the photographer’s audio about that.” York’] came out, I saw that everything was organized unparalleled, his gentleness and humility inspirational. commentary. In 1978, Cunningham published “Facades,” a collec- and archived […] I hope that there will be a book and Even though his talents were very well-known, he Born on March 13, 1929 in Boston, Cunningham tion of 128 photographs of Editta Sherman in front of that the next generations will know his extraordinary preferred to be anonymous, something unachievable came to New York after dropping out of Harvard well-known buildings. Years later, in 2008, work,” said Andelman. for such a superstar. I will miss him every day.” University at the age of 19. He got his start at Bonwit’s in he received the L’Ordre National des Arts et des Letters “There’s no one else like Bill,” said Tommy Ton, Despite all the accolades and the minor-celebrity the advertising department, but soon began designing and in 2012 he received the Carnegie Hall Medal of the Canadian photographer behind the Jak & Jil blog. status that he has garnered, Cunningham never let any hats under his label “William J.” His business, which Excellence. “In January, it was pouring rain. The fact that he was of it get to his head – just the opposite. was located on 52nd between Madison and Park, “He had such an eye,” said Carine Roitfeld. “He willing to stand in the rain while all of us were taking “I’m a zero. I’m a worker in the factory,” he told folded when he was drafted during the Korean War, paved the way for other photographers. We all dreamt refuge, I thought it was remarkable. Nothing would WWD in 2014, following his conversation with Fern and served a tour in the U.S. Army. to be featured on his page in The New York Times. It ever stop Bill. So when I started seeing less of Bill, I was Mallis. “I’m like you and everybody else. I’m still Cunningham, who was the first journalist in was the page to be on.” Roitfeld recalled the photos concerned. When the news came, it was enjoying what I do.”

Photograph by Steve Eichner Steve by Photograph America to write about Azzedine Alaïa and Jean Paul Cunningham took of her wearing an Azzedine Alaïa ery shattering. Funeral arrangements have yet to be released. 16 27 JUNE 2016

Inside the Grand don’t scream it.” Central store. His brother added: “It shows the evolution of our product. We’ve added performance qualities to provide classic American sports- wear with modern technology that brings our experience to life.” That experience — its motto is: Every day should feel this good — is also evident in the special touches in the store. There are videos of the brand’s marketing shoots that show ships sailing on the oceans; a reel shows the brothers being interviewed on Bloomberg TV. A 55-inch interactive digital mirror will be added to the store as well, which will allow customers to add digital elements to the photo such as sailboats or whales and then take a selfie. Only the company’s newly opened Detroit store has one of these mirrors. Shep said that while the Grand Central store is larger than most, its size allows the brand more breadth to “express ourselves.” “It’s honest and real,” he continued. “It’s not about being exclusive, but being as inclu- sive as possible.” More customers than ever will have an opportunity to try out the Vineyard Vines brand, thanks to the company’s ambitious rollout plan. Ian said they will be up to 100 stores by the end of the year and the whole- sale business continues to be strong. “Our retail just helps our wholesale, which is growing rapidly,” Ian said. “We still have a lot of mom-and-pops and green grass, but our MEN’S business with Nordstrom and Bloomingdale’s is also growing year-over-year. Our brand is still pretty young and a store like this helps put us on the map.” Although they declined to provide a figure, the brothers are hoping the Grand Central Vineyard Vines Opens unit will be its largest — or among its largest — volume stores. “We don’t really understand the customer yet,” Shep said, “but we should within a couple of weeks.” A grand-opening party is slated for the fall. At Grand Central The Murrays then addressed the big question on whether they were looking for an ● Brothers Shep and Ian Murray skyline in the design. classic, the brand has embraced the updates investor or an exit strategy. Rumors surfaced acknowledged their search for Women’s and children’s is located on the available — and desirable — today. “It might in May that they had hired Goldman Sachs left side of the store while men’s and special look like Kennedy might have worn it,” Ian Group Inc. to sell a minority stake in the an investor continues. product are merchandised on the right. said, “but you’ll still be comfortable with it in business. Although a Reuters report put the BY JEAN E. PALMIERI There’s a section devoted to the America’s your closet today. We’ve gotten into a lot of valuation of the company at $1 billion, sources Cup, which will be held in Bermuda next performance gear, but in classic styles. Our believe that number is highly inflated. At the June, and some Olympics-inspired product. khakis stretch and our polos wick, but they time of the 15th anniversary in 2 The pink whale has beached itself in In fact, Shep revealed, Vineyard Vines will Manhattan. open its first international store on Front On Friday, Vineyard Vines made per- Street in Bermuda this summer. haps its boldest statement yet, opening a “Ian and I are involved in every aspect 6,000-square-foot flagship in Grand Central of every store,” Shep said. In addition to Terminal. the design, the brothers also chose the The store, at 89 East 42nd Street on the east soundtrack, which in the case of the Grand side of Vanderbilt Hall, is larger than most Central store included a lot of country music of the company’s other 80-odd units, which from artists such as Jason Aldean and Cole average 3,000 to 3,500 square feet. Swindell. The opening in the rail station is also sym- Although the store was covered with bolic for the brand that started 18 years ago scaffolding on the outside and the brand did when brothers and Connecticut natives Shep nothing but open the doors, it was crowded and Ian Murray ditched their day jobs to start on opening day with customers who were a men’s neckwear company inspired by their buying the colorful shirts, pants and jackets. love of the leisure life. “We decided to trade in And when they spied the Murray brothers, our business suits for bathing suits by selling they weren’t shy about asking for photos or ties so we wouldn’t have to wear them,” offering suggestions on where the next store according to the company’s story. should be located or what other products “I worked on 40th and Madison,” Shep they’d like to see the pink whale logo adorn. said at the store’s soft opening Friday morn- “This is a great opportunity for us to show ing. “So to come back here is really special. the world we’re a brand that plays every- Everybody thinks of New York as a city, we where,” Ian said. “Not just when you’re on think of it as an island, the greatest island in vacation and not just in the summer, but all the world, and we have our boat right in the year long.” middle of it.” He said that since starting with a few The store uses a stem of a boat as its cash whimsical designs on ties, Vineyard Vines has wrap station and there are mounted marlins, expanded into a variety of classifications for tunas and mahi-mahis hanging from the men, women and children, as well as home ceiling. Portholes are part of the design and and outdoor products including co-branded in half of the store, the ceiling is painted blue. golf bags and Yeti coolers. It has associations “We’re a blue sky kind of brand,” Shep said. with the Kentucky Derby, Major League On the other side, the brothers retained the Baseball, the National Football League and carved molding and some of the original the America’s Cup and it sponsors pro golfers flooring from the train station and exposed Jason Dufner and Russell Knox. some of the beams. “We’ve gotten into denim, outerwear, There are a slew of photos of the brothers sweaters,” Ian said. “And we think they’ll all Ian and Shep hanging on the walls, along with some custom be well-received.” Murray

surfboards, including one with the New York They stressed that although the designs are Thomas Iannaccone by photographs Kors 27 JUNE 2016 17

suffer, and the diversity and availability there has been little jubilation among BUSINESS Brexit Vote of labor will be at stake.” many of Britain’s businesses, and eco- GDP forecasts for the U.K. have nomic forecasters are struggling to see Puts Industry already been cut to 1.5 from 2 percent much good to come of an exit — at least Investors on this year, and to 0.2 percent from 2.4 in the short to medium term. They are In Limbo percent in 2017, with Fidelity Interna- anticipating weak consumer confi- Edge After CONTINUED FROM PAGE 1 tional saying recession is inevitable, dence and spending across Europe, and other companies predicting it as well as job losses and a lack of new could happen as early as Christmas. investment in the U.K. Immigration Brexit Vote Late Friday, Moody’s changed the — a hot-button issue for the Leavers minister, adjust to a devalued pound outlook on the U.K.’s long-term issuer who are demanding more control over ● Uncertain and wary, analysts and higher prices going forward. It will and debt ratings to “negative” from foreigners entering the U.K., and more need to cope with potential job losses, “stable,” arguing the referendum result jobs for Britons — was a positive for advise investors to limit their a likely freeze on foreign investment — 52 percent of voters favored “Leave” many businesses, especially small, exposure to companies with a and questions over its future trading with 48 percent for “Remain” — “will entrepreneurial ones and the service U.K. presence. relationship with the EU. It also will herald a prolonged period of uncer- industry. need to cope with global businesses, tainty, with negative implications for “Consumer industries including BY EVAN CLARK WITH CONTRIBUTIONS FROM especially those in the financial sector, the country’s medium-term growth retail, tech, fashion and hospitality KRISTI ELLIS AND VICKI M. YOUNG moving a large portion of their Lon- outlook.” have benefited from attracting tal- don-based operations to the Continent Over the longer term, Moody’s ent from Europe, and this trend has Still feeling fragile after Friday’s global in order to remain part of the EU. added, should the U.K. not be able to extended to manufacturers and those stock rout, the investment set is coming into Europe, meanwhile, is contemplating secure a favorable alternative trade in supporting functions such as ware- the week laden with the sense that anything a future minus its second-largest econ- arrangement with the EU and other housing, logistics and supply chain could happen after the British voted to jump omy, and a pillar of an EU that other- countries, its growth prospects would industries,” said Orlando Martins, ceo ship and leave the European Union. wise is made up of stable Germany and be “materially weaker than currently and founder of Oresa Executive Search. The Brexit vote — which surprised markets a bunch of other economies struggling expected.” “Employers value this high-quality around the world even though a “Leave” with structural inefficiencies, yawning “There will be job losses in the talent, whether at the ‘coal-face’ or at decision was seen as possible — led to an deficits and high unemployment. financial services, and in a climate of board level. We implore government immediate and visceral reaction from traders “There is a lot of uncertainty, and job losses, confidence is shaken and to reassure companies and employees Friday. that is bad for market growth,” Brian people don’t feel like spending,” said alike that they will ‘make safe’ in what The Dow Jones Industrial Average fell Klaas, fellow in comparative politics at George Wallace, chief executive officer is a trying time,” he added. This week, 610.32 points, or 3.4 percent, to 17,400.75, as the London School of Economics, told of MHE Retail, a U.K.-based consul- Britain’s business secretary Sajid Javid markets were hit even harder in Europe: at WWD. “Volatility is bad for consumer tancy that works across Europe. plans to meet with business leaders the extreme the FTSE MIB in Milan dropped spending. All these things point to The speculation is that more than and told the BBC that his message will 12.5 percent to 15,723.81. economic de-stabilization as a result 50,000 financial sector jobs could be be “there’s no need to be panicking.” Whether that downward trend will con- of this political decision that voters transferred to the Continent, in partic- In addition, fashion and retail busi- tinue today depends on a complex calcula- made.” ular Paris and Frankfurt, as it remains nesses in continental Europe have, for tion that factors in best guesses on everything Michael Jacobides, associate profes- unclear what future trading and secu- the last two decades at least, relied from how long it will take the U.K. and EU to sor of strategy and entrepreneurship at rities regulations will look like in the heavily on the flood of British gradu- unwind their connection to how consumers London Business School, said he’s most new U.K. Today, international banks ates from the nation’s schools to fill out and companies will react to what, if any, concerned about what will happen in based in London can sell and market their design staffs. The EU now could effect this has on the U.S. election. the short and medium term. their products freely thanks to EU require U.K. students to get work visas, There’s also the nagging fear that some “[Gross domestic product] will take “passporting” rights. Those financial potentially cutting off that easy source other hit could be coming, like the failure of a a severe hit as uncertainty forestalls service workers have been key driv- of supply. large hedge fund that bet the wrong way and investment — but also consumption ers of the British economy, spending Experts agree that the fall in the was mortally wounded by the decrease in the — as high earners wonder about their on everything from luxury goods to pound will most certainly give a value of the pound. future. The short-term impact may houses, cars to private schools for their short-term boost to exports and tour- “If this triggers some other financial event, be worse than what many models children — especially in London. ist spending, while the longer-term a financial disruption…a second shoe drops predicted. Tax revenues, especially Despite the majority of voters favor- implications are negative. Early Friday, that causes this to linger and get worse,” said

Photograph by Shutterstock by Photograph by those in the City [of London], will ing Leave in Thursday’s referendum, CONTINUED ON PG. 18 CONTINUED ON PG. 18 18 27 JUNE 2016

Investors on Edge there may not be much of an effect buying,’” she said. “Even if we sta- Brexit Vote from the overseas customer. If they bilize a little bit, people will still feel After Brexit Vote have more spending power, but actu- insecure and that is going to affect a Puts Industry ally what they are buying is slightly fall in retail spend. People are likely CONTINUED FROM PAGE 17 more expensive it may equal itself to hold back on purchasing, particu- In Limbo out. We don’t know yet what is going larly large ticket items.” Frank Badillo, director of research at Macro Savvy. CONTINUED FROM PAGE 17 to happen.” Wehrle believes that retailers will “At the same time, it could go the other way. Going The same goes for exports: The suffer, at least in the short term, with back to 2008, most of the trouble in the world has weaker pound may make them leftover stock going into sales, and been self-inflicted because of panic. We can’t predict more attractive to U.S. and foreign the big international chains wonder- how irrationally people are going to respond. That’s buyers, but they could actually be ing what their future is in Britain. why these things are so difficult to gauge.” sterling fell to a 30-year low against more expensive to make depending “Fashion is challenged already, He said the Brexit vote would have only a modest the dollar, but by evening it had on how and where brands and U.K. and then of course what are the impact on the U.S. economy and could even help rebounded to $1.37 after falling to a retailers do their sourcing. European retailers going to do? markets here as investors look for a relatively safe low of $1.32. It also recovered against Maureen Hinton, global research Will they be looking long term and place to park their money. the euro, rising to 1.23 euros from a director at the consultancy Verdict thinking, ‘Do we stay in the U.K.? Do IHS Global Insight’s director of consumer econom- low of 1.20 euros. Markets also took Retail, said while shopkeepers may we leave?’ If ultimately the exchange ics Chris G. Christopher Jr. said: “One thing this will a nosedive, with the top European have currency hedges and contract rate is bad and the [new] tariffs make do, with the Sterling pound taking a little bit of a hit, indexes suffering far more than the terms already in place with suppli- it prohibitive financially for them to is make the dollar stronger. There will be a flight to FTSE 100, which closed down 3.2 ers, “they will not be able to hold trade here they won’t.” safety, making prices of imported goods relatively percent. prices for long. Following the exit An indication of the uncertainty cheaper. That will hurt our exports, but they’ve been “The initial impact may be more from the single market, there could surrounding Brexit is the number hurting anyhow.” sales coming from Europe and Amer- be costly tariffs in place should the of companies that wouldn’t address As for the possible impact of the stronger dollar ica into U.K. companies because all U.K. government fail to negotiate the U.K.’s decision and what it might on apparel retailers, Christopher said, “Consumers of a sudden, Britain will be a very beneficial trade agreements, which mean for their businesses. Burberry, might benefit from lower clothing prices; retailers attractive place to shop,” said Paul will put further upward pressure on LVMH Moet Louis Vuit- will not be happy about this.” Thomas, senior retail consultant at prices. ton, H&M, Yoox Net-a-porter Group, Exactly how consumers will feel after another Retail Remedy. “This will only be Hinton believes retailers need to Compagnie Financière Richemont, round of searing headlines remains an open ques- short-term, because in the long term, encourage consumers to spend now Inditex and more all declined tion, although it is the luxe set that’s expected to react British companies will potentially ahead of any rises, “but that will be requests for comment on the impact first. have to pay more for the goods and hard in the circumstances. The U.K. of the vote. “The everyday normal consumer is pretty much services that they are buying from population has become well used Many — including Burberry’s engrossed in what is going on in the U.S.,” said other countries.” to austerity since the recession, so chairman Sir John Peace and chief Natalie Kotlyar, assurance partner and leader of He pointed out that the fall fashion retailers will not see a huge change creative and ceo Christopher Bailey BDO’s Northeast retail and consumer products collections are shipping — or sitting in consumer behavior, but a further — wanted Britain to stay in the EU practice. “[They] may not be as affected by this as in warehouses waiting to be deliv- continuation of the challenges they for a number of reasons: Free trade a luxury consumer who perhaps will have global ered — and have been bought and have been facing over the past few and movement of workers within the investments, understands the ramifications of what is paid for. Spring 2017 collections years,” she said. single market, the power of a single happening and the challenges.” have potentially been ordered by the Diane Wehrle, insights director for trading bloc and the investment that But in the coming weeks and months Britain’s vote larger retailers, “but anything after Springboard, which measures footfall Britain attracted as financial center could start to echo in the U.S., which is in the midst of that, depending on where the pound on the U.K. high street, agreed. and open gateway to the Continent. a bitterly fought election that’s bringing an increas- gets back to, will probably have a “Consumers are inevitably going Marks & Spencer would only say ingly nationalist sentiment to the fore. slightly higher price to the retailer to to be more cautions in the very that it’s too early for it to be com- Phillip Swagel, a professor of international eco- buy and that could be passed on to short term. Over the next couple of menting in any detail. “We will be nomic policy at the University of Maryland said there the consumer. If that price increase weeks they will be thinking: ‘Perhaps monitoring and assessing the impact is a “lesson on the desire for change” in the is balanced out by the weaker pound, I should just wait and see, before CONTINUED ON PG. 19 CONTINUED ON PG. 19

Traders work on the floor of the New York Stock Exchange. Photograph by NYSE/Valerie Caviness NYSE/Valerie by Photograph 27 JUNE 2016 19

think tank based in London. “It is in deals are negotiated, the new raft Investors on Edge Brexit Vote their political interest to do so even if of red tape will inevitably sap their it is not in their economic interest.” money and resources. “If we want to After Brexit Vote Puts Industry Knox also believes Britain no lon- continue trading with Europe — even ger has top-flight negotiators. “We’ve though we are not part of the EU — CONTINUED FROM PAGE 18 In Limbo completely lost any diplomatic we are going to have to fulfill their expertise in negotiating trade deals, requirements in terms of standards CONTINUED FROM PAGE 18 Brexit vote. and now we need to negotiate a huge on products — so there certainly “British voters understood that there would number of incredibly technical and won’t be any less red tape,” said Weh- be a short-term economic hit from leaving difficult ones in the next couple of rle, insights director for Springboard. the EU and they voted for it nonetheless,” on our business as the situation years. How to do that while not giving As for the future of Europe without Swagel said. “They were so dissatisfied with evolves and engaging as and when we up that door into the EU is going to the U.K. that, too, remains a question the situation, on economics and especially on need to,” a spokesman said. be incredibly complex — and we don’t mark. immigration and home rule, that they were Other British brands were rela- have that skill base,” he said. On Monday, Merkel and France’s willing to pay the near-term price of a weaker tively sanguine about the impact on Klaas of the London School of President François Hollande will meet pound and lower [gross domestic product].” business: Over the weekend, Paul Economics said the nature of the new for talks on the biggest crisis in the That translates to some extent for the U.S., Smith pointed out that his company trade deals will boil down to how will- history of the EU, and how to move “but only in part,” he noted. sells in 73 countries and has offices ing Britain is to address the immigra- forward. “The British worry on immigration is in London, Milan, Paris, New York tion issue: “Free movement of labor Klaas believes Europe can survive shared by some U.S. voters, but [Republican and Tokyo. “Personally, I would’ve was one of the really contentious provided that other countries do not presumptive presidential nominee Donald] been happy to stay as we were, but issues for Brexit, so the catch-22 for leave, although there is already talk Trump’s anti-immigration message worked the world is a strange place. We’re British politicians now is if they want of In/Out referendums in countries better in the primary than [it will] in the gen- an international business and I have to deliver on reducing international including France, the Netherlands eral election,” Swagel said. total respect for Europe. Hopefully migration as they pledged to do, they and Denmark. Trump has been a vocal anti-immigrant things will settle down after the initial need to basically remove themselves “The U.K. represents a sixth of voice on the campaign trail, vowing to build a shock and we can focus on the most from the single market, and that Europe’s economy, so in American bigger and stronger wall on the U.S.-Mexican important thing which is peace on would have a lot higher economic terms, we are talking about Cali- border, among other things. earth,” Smith told WWD. consequences. fornia and Florida being locked off “His harsh rhetoric on immigration will He echoed sentiments from fellow “Either they are going to address the United States. So it is a big hit boost turnout on the Democratic side, making British brand Mulberry and designer migration as they promised voters, to Europe’s economy. There is this the issue less potent in the U.S. than the U.K.,” Neil Barrett, both of which said which would require more isolation, incentive for European politicians to Swagel predicted. before the referendum took place less trade and more trade barriers, punish Britain, but if they punish it The wild card on the U.S. side would be a that life will go on no matter what, or they won’t address migration and too much, then they are going to bear sharply slowing U.S. economy between now and that sales would continue with or they will try to have some sort of the economic consequences them- and November, he said. without new — and potentially far less rosy, Norwegian-style agreement that selves. They require a growing Britain “This would magnify the desire for change favorable — trade barriers. still involves freedom of movement,” in order to have prosperity at home, — it’s hard for [Democratic presumptive pres- Opening its new U.K. headquarters he said. too. In other words, Germany wants idential nominee Hillary] Clinton to portray on Friday in St. Albans, just north of Knox pointed to the automobile Britain to succeed, but if Britain suc- herself as the person to bring about change,” London, American footwear brand industry as good example of how ceeds too much then other countries Swagel noted. “My expectation is that the U.S. Skechers appear unfazed by the out- new, unfavorable trade barriers could might decide ‘Let’s give our Brexit a economy will continue to grow at a moderate come of the Brexit vote. “It may be a harm certain regions of Britain. shot,’” he said. pace this year, even with the market down- little burdensome with the paperwork “The British car industry, which Knox said he believes Europe has draft from the Brexit vote. I don’t see a strong and things, but depending on what is completely foreign-owned, has bigger problems than the British exit rebound coming, and I don’t think Clinton’s agreements are done and what they been an extraordinary success over on its hands. He pointed to the weak proposals will bring about a strong economy. can do, I know we’ll be here and we’ll the last 20 years. One Nissan factory euro, and banking crises coming But the path is probably decent enough to do business,” chief operating officer in Sunderland [a city, like most in along in Italy, France and possibly mean that Clinton gets through.” David Weinberg told WWD. “We’re the northeast of England, that voted Germany. “I can’t see that Brexit will The U.S. economy — which is seen by pretty self-contained in England, as Leave] manufactures more cars than have that big of an impact as there are experts as relatively strong, but is still too we are in Europe, so whatever the the whole of Italy put together. If much bigger problems in the region. weak for the liking of many workers — is requirements are to trade within bor- they are going to effectively lose their There is still great resentment against expected to take a modest hit. ders, we will adapt to.” markets in Europe because there is German domination — we have seen Bank of America Merrill Lynch economist Earlier last week, the company a 10 percent tariff facing them, that that in Greece — but it is latent in Ethan Harris said that the Federal Reserve celebrated the expansion of its Euro- could have very high profile impact many other countries in Southern “will likely delay” an increase in the bench- pean distribution center in Belgium on specific local communities.” and Eastern Europe.” mark interest rate. to a million square feet. Skechers said Knox added that, as a result, it is He also talked about the need for “We expect the next hike to be in Decem- it eventually expects to have 75 to 80 “not impossible” to envision momen- labor reform in France, and how the ber versus our prior forecast of September,” stores across Europe, including the tum gathering for a second referen- south of Europe would make sure that Harris said. “We think Brexit will shave a few U.K. “England is a very big market dum in a couple of years, “which has “any attempts to move away from tenths off U.S. GDP growth, with the drag for us, we have a very big retail and happened every single other case the welfare model…will be strongly showing up as early as next quarter.” wholesale presence so we don’t antic- when the country has said no in a resisted.” Harris also trimmed his 2017 GDP forecast ipate that business will do anything referendum. ‘No’ does not necessarily Wallace of MHE Retail believes by 0.2 percentage points to 1.8 percent, “given but grow,” said Weinberg. mean ‘no,’” he said. Brexit is a net negative for Europe. the global uncertainty has increased following According to the Lisbon Treaty, Indeed, there is already an offi- “The euro zone will take this quite the Brexit vote.” Britain will have two years to dis- cial petition lodged with the British badly. It just started to turn the Analysts advised investors to pay close engage itself from the EU, and the parliament for a second referendum corner after the Greek crisis.” He attention to how much exposure U.S. retail clock will most likely start ticking in — more than 2.5 million have signed said he fears that because of a fall in companies have to the U.K. market. early October once David Cameron it — and even a petition circulating consumer spending, businesses will Cowen & Co.’s retail analyst Oliver Chen steps down a new Conservative prime for London’s new mayor Sadiq Khan most likely batten down the hatches said investors should gravitate toward compa- minister is named. Over the weekend, to declare the city independent and and put a hold on investments. “I nies catering to middle-income consumers, however, some European leaders apply to rejoin the EU, further adding am struggling to see the benefits of such as Ross Stores Inc., Target Corp. and Ulta began calling for the U.K. to start the to all of the confusion and instability leaving the EU,” he said. Beauty. exit process immediately. German facing the country. Although Knox is skeptical about On the flip side, he noted that: “A depreci- Chancellor Angela Merkel was one Few, however, are surprised about the U.K.’s ability to negotiate suc- ating euro [is] likely to pressure top line the politician urging caution — and care. talk of a second referendum. Karl cessfully right now, he believes that most for Fossil, Hudson’s Bay Corp., Movado She said there is no need to be “nasty Lagerfeld even brought up the topic in the long term, Britain has a great and Michael Kors.” in any way,” and while the disengage- on the sidelines of the Dior Homme opportunity to be successful outside Adrienne Yih Tennant, a retail analyst at ment process should not take forever, show over the weekend. Of Thurs- Europe. “Britain traditionally has a Wolfe Research, pointed to investment oppor- “I would not fight for a short time day’s referendum result, he said: “I much more liberal outlook than many tunities at Ulta Beauty and The Children’s frame,” she said. think it was a bad idea because the of the other EU states, and within 20 Place, companies with international exposure Britain will also be forced to rene- young and the big cities never wanted years, it will have a larger population that are dominant in their category. gotiate a raft of — hopefully favorable it. And the difference [between Leave than Germany. It will be free to strike “Given the notion of global contagion, total — new trade agreements with Europe and Remain] is so little. I think it is great deals around the world.” He non-U.S. exposure matters more than solely and other countries such as the U.S. very a bad idea,” he said of the result, added that Brexit “creates a fantastic European exposure,” she said. “As the U.S. To make matters even more challeng- although he added: “Europe isn’t opportunity for building on the great dollar strengthens, this will exacerbate trends ing, there are those who believe the perfect, either.” strengths that that have [before] been negatively impacting country has lost its great negotiators, On Sunday, Scotland’s First Minis- Britain has.” tourist traffic and U.S. retailers’ demand having relied on the EU to do the job ter Nicola Sturgeon said the Scottish While manufacturing is clearly not abroad.” over the past 40-odd years. parliament could even veto the U.K.’s the way forward for Britain, Knox Tennant pointed to fashion companies that “Nobody knows what is going to exit from the European Union. Scot- believes the creative industries — have a significant percentage of their sales happen in terms of how the renegoti- land voted overwhelmingly to remain design, media and financial services that come from overseas, including: Coach, ation goes and the great question is to part of the EU, and there is also talk — are all U.K. strengths, which coun- 43 percent; Abercrombie & Fitch, 35 percent; what degree will the European Union of another Scottish independence tries such as China need. “The British Lululemon, 27 percent; Michael Kors, 26 per- be vindictive in order to stop any referendum as a result of the Leave advantages in those kinds of areas cent, TJX, 23 percent; The Gap, 23 percent, other countries from leaving,” said victory. — obviously fashion would be very and Kate Spade at 19 percent. Tim Knox, director at the Centre for Businesses large and small also much one — make it much more excit- The world that’s grown closer with glo- Policy Studies, a liberal, pro-markets argue that no matter what future ing for Britain to be independent.” balization over the past 20 years is suddenly seeming a little too close for comfort to many. 20 27 JUNE 2016

FASHION concessionaire Sociedade de Jogos de Macau. designer in a real professional sense. But it is “I did enough houses for myself — houses a challenge to experiment with different big I nearly never use,” Lagerfeld told WWD, volumes. revealing the Miami project exclusively. “I “I always adapt what I like to the country am not an architect and I am not an interior and the town where the buildings are,” he Karl’s Kondos continued. “I don’t have a recipe book. There Karl Lagerfeld are elements I love, but it is always adapted to will design lobby ● the feeling of the place and the mood of the The fashion designer is to The project is billed as the first U.S. condo spaces at the culture of the country.” Estates at create residential lobbies for project for Lagerfeld, who last year traveled The Acqualina project is being developed Acqualina’s twin 50-story towers. to Toronto for a launch event for Art Shoppe 50-story towers, by the Florida-based Trump Group and is Lofts + Condos, for which he is designing two slated to open described as an “ultraluxury” development BY MILES SOCHA lobby spaces slated to open in 2019 or 2020. in Miami in 2020. on the grounds of the Forbes Five Star and Hospitality projects are a new sideline for the AAA Five Diamond Acqualina Resort & Spa. PARIS – Lobbies are to buildings what clothes multitasking designer, who is the couturier at South African-born developers Jules and are to people: They can help deliver a good Chanel, the fur and ready-to-wear designer at Eddie Trump, no relation to presidential first impression. , and the creative leader at his signature hopeful Donald Trump, said they wanted the Which is why the Estates at Acqualina has fashion house, in addition to his photography entrance lobbies to be the “pièce de résis- tapped Karl Lagerfeld to design residential and publishing activities. tance” of the new buildings, billed as “the lobby spaces at its twin 50-story towers slated In recent years, Lagerfeld has redesigned world’s finest residences.” to open in Miami in 2020. Lagerfeld is to the pool, terrace and gardens for the Hôtel The Estates buildings are to house 265 conceive all the custom features, finishes and Métropole Monte-Carlo and designed an residences, each with three to seven bed- furnishings for the spaces, drawing inspira- emblem for the new Sofitel So Singapore. He rooms, priced from $3.9 million to $9 million, tion from the buildings, located on Sunny also signed on to create two luxurious suites with penthouse units going for $40 million. Isles Beach, and Florida itself. at the Hôtel de Crillon in Paris, currently Features are to include marble floors, ocean- “The climate is very warm there and I under renovation, and a 270-room signature view showers and — a propos for the lobby wanted something fresh,” the designer said. hotel in Macau in partnership with gaming designer — elaborate dressing rooms.

FASHION technical than the spandex leotards and nylon tights that most dancers are accus- tomed to wearing. Puma an Official Partner of NYCB Staker, who joined the company as an apprentice in 2013, said of her initial experi- ence rehearsing in Puma gear: “The leggings ● The brand will provide are super flexible and movable, I’ve been rehearsal athletic attire wearing them with my leotard. It’s pretty much like wearing tights but a little thicker. and dancers will appear in We are athletes, too, and everything they campaigns. make is for athletes so it makes sense.” The 20-year-old acknowledged ballet’s BY MISTY WHITE SIDELL current cultural resonance, with dancers finding immense fame on social media — Puma has signed on as the official active- leading to book deals, documentaries and wear partner of the Ballet leotard lines. “I think a lot of people thought — approaching the company’s roster of 92 ballet was a dying art form but right now it’s dancers as “phenomenal athletes.” growing, there is a rebirth. I think ballet in The multiyear deal sees Puma provid- general is trying to reach a younger audience ing rehearsal athletic attire to all ranks of in the way we portray ourselves and what we the company. It will use the opportunity New York City put onstage — social media is helping that. to test new products’ functionality and Ballet dancers People can see what we do offstage — it gives performance. New York City Ballet dancers Olivia Boisson, behind-the-scenes glimpses. I think people will be featured in Puma print and digital Unity Phelan, see us now more as athletes; we are much campaigns. The Kering-owned firm will also Meagan Mann, more of a popular topic.” provide financial support to the company, Mimi Staker and Petrick concurred with Staker’s com- Savannah the terms of which it declined to specify. Lowery in Puma. ments, noting that ballet is ripe for a Puma Adam Petrick, Puma’s global director of ambassadorship, due to its combination of brand and marketing, said “this partnership in NYCB’s Lincoln Center rehearsal space, NYCB is to uplift younger dancers, younger physical expression and exertion. brings Puma a great set of ambassadors — dressed in an amalgamation of Puma athletic creators and choreographers and our goal “It fits in with that trend of health and people who are truly top athletes as well as clothes and offstage attire, like practice tutus is to help support the artists of tomorrow, wellness. The way that they work their bod- top creative minds. You have got world-class and leg warmers. really to help train the company of tomor- ies and exercise control, and respect their performers who use their bodies more exten- The ads’ cast is decidedly young, as row. We are very interested in who has new bodies as their instrument — that’s a very sively and effectively than anyone in the Puma intentionally decided to work with fresh ideas,” Petrick said. worthy and noble pursuit and also ties into world, their training regime is ridiculous.” up-and-coming dancers rather than com- In providing athletic clothing to dancers — that idea of creativity and self-expression. New York City Ballet soloist Savannah pany stalwarts. That enterprising mood is including leggings, warm-ups and sneakers Those are the dominant ideas of our time — a Lowery, and corps de ballet members Olivia also presently felt in the company’s own — Puma is giving company members an dancer exemplifies both of those things,” he Boisson, Meagan Mann, Unity Phelan and stage casting — where dancers of infantile opportunity to break with rehearsal clothing said. Mimi Staker are featured in the first round of rank are being given unprecedented chances tradition. While Petrick specified that Puma Petrick said cobranded NYCB Puma mer- Puma advertising, which will appear in print at principal roles. has no plans to create a modernized pointe chandise is being discussed but has yet to

and digital form. The ads see the dancers “Overall our approach in working with shoe — it’s “DryCell” fabrics are a ways more be confirmed. Erin Baiano by photograph NYCB CEOSUMMIT

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Fashion Scoops

Memo Pad and a viewpoint Niney shares. Manpower “I do believe in Europe, firmly,” What do A$AP Rocky and he said. New Hire Larry Clark have in common? Michael B. Jordan is a man Interview Magazine has Aside from featuring in Dior on a mission, meanwhile. The brought in Jason Nikic as Homme’s latest ad campaign, actor is moving into directing chief revenue officer. they were both among the and producing, and has a clear Nikic replaces former guests at the label’s show aim with his work. “Education publisher Dan Ragone, who Saturday afternoon, along with is key for youth and the next departed for Maxim earlier this Robert Pattinson, another of generation coming up,” he said. year. Nikic, who most recently Dior’s faces. “I’m going to focus on the right served as associate publisher “I’m a 73-year-old model messaging: keep learning, at Hearst’s Car and Driver and for my first time,” said Clark. Gosha don’t always believe what is Road & Track, may seem, at “It was fun. I felt like a piece of Rubchinskiy told you.” first blush, an odd choice for meat, but it was good, it was — ALEX WYNNE the role. painless.” Soviet Russia. “The questions I Interview president Kelly Clark has just finished am asking are: What is Europe Brant agreed but also ex- working on his movie “Marfa Bookish Crowd now? Are countries together plained that Nikic would bring Girl 2,” which he said should Dozens of fans lined up in or separated? What is global a much-needed digital vision be released late this year or early next. the courtyard of the Comme and what is unique?” he said in to the lifestyle- and pop-cul- des Garçons shop on Rue du a statement. ture-centric publication. Hopper Penn, attending his first Dior show, plans to contin- Faubourg Saint-Honoré for the The designer elaborated Brant told WWD that over launch of Gosha Rubchinskiy’s on that idea at the book the past few months, she ue following in his famous dad Sean’s footsteps. He walked third photography book. signing, which came just a day met with a “large number” of Published in a limited edition after Britain’s vote to exit the candidates, many of whom had the Cannes red carpet with his father for the first time in May. of 1,000, “The Day of My Death” European Union. “I think Europe “the obvious” fashion-centric features black-and-white needs to connect with Russia backgrounds. “That was pretty intense, it was my first time that I was actually photographs of Florence and more. I don’t like the isolation “We didn’t want to hire some- was produced alongside a of Russia against the world. I one based on the relationships, part of something there,” he said. His future projects defi- short film to accompany the want Russia connected with but their strategic vision,” Brant men’s collection he showed Europe, I want Britain connect- noted. “Jason had excitement nitely include continuing to act, he said, “but not necessarily at the Pitti Uomo trade show. ed to Europe. I think it’s better for where the industry is head- Haley Bennett walking [the red carpet].” The project was inspired by when we speak with each ing instead of nostalgia [for the for Interview. French actor Pierre Niney, murdered Italian filmmaker other than being isolated and past].” who attended with his partner, Pier Paolo Pasolini. be alone or be angry and have She offered that his career the actress Natasha Andrews, Rei Kawakubo and Adrian fear,” Rubchinskiy said. at Hearst and The Atlantic, marketing and driving revenue be able to present our partners is about to start promoting Joffe dropped in to check on The designer casts his where he served as integrat- across all of Interview’s current with increasingly more innova- François Ozon’s “Frantz,” out their protégé. Fellow designers shows on Instagram, bringing ed sales director, gave him a channels — from print and digi- tive platforms to participate in in September. “It’s a movie I Demna Gvasalia, Virgil Abloh together teenagers from as “digital savvy” that Interview tal to social and events. He will this conversation.” particularly love,” he said. He and Rick Owens also came, far afield as Europe, the United is seeking as it makes bolder also develop new products and Nikic’s hire comes at an is also shooting Eric Barbier’s as did Chloë Sevigny, Ricky States and Australia. “They moves this year to monetize its revenue streams and work to important time for the 47-year- adaptation of Romain Gary’s Saiz, Heron Preston and Paul know each other already by web site. Currently, Brant said build a team with a digital-first old magazine. Founded in “Promise of Dawn” with Char- Hameline. The book, published Instagram and the first time Interview has about 650,000 mind-set. 1969 by , Inter- lotte Gainsbourg, which has by the IDEA imprint, is styled by they met at our show, it was unique visitors a month, which, For his part, Nikic offered: view carries a circulation of involved quite a European tour. Lotta Volkova, who appears as great how they were excited a character alongside brothers while small, has been “fully “I couldn’t be more honored approximately 220,000 at a “We were in Budapest, then the to see each other,” he noted. Titouan and Louison Savignoni “They are in the same mood, organic.” She explained that to share in the responsibility time when print readership is middle of the desert in Moroc- and Ivan Pogornyi. listen to the same music, wear means the company hasn’t in making sure that Interview waning. With a lean staff and co, then Italy, and now we’re Rubchinskiy shot the the same Gosha or Supreme. hired a team focused on ex- continues to thrive. That I share tight budgets, Interview, like its going to Belgium. He believed pictures in industrial and I think it’s great. It’s the new panding its web traffic, per se — this responsibility with an competitors, must grow new in Europe a lot, Romain Gary.” government buildings in way. Of course, they are the which is where Nikic comes in. editorial team that’s eager to revenue streams in order to The day after the Brexit vote, Florence, finding parallels same, but all of them have their Nikic, who will report to Brant find new ways to converse with thrive in today’s volatile media this was a topical comment between Mussolini’s Italy and identity.” — JOELLE DIDERICH when he starts today, will be re- their readers and users gives environment. sponsible for advertising sales, me the confidence that we will — ALEXANDRA STEIGRAD

FASHION CK Launches Modern Cotton Bedding

● The collection launches at same cotton modal fabric as the under- Bloomingdale’s 59th Street wear and is adorned with the brand’s iconic Calvin Klein logo waistband on flagship on July 7. each fitted sheet. The line includes BY LISA LOCKWOOD duvets, sheeting and throws in cotton and modal jersey in a variety of heath- ered shades, stripes and camouflaged prints, that are designed to be mixed Calvin Klein is adding some sex appeal and matched. The range encourages to its bedding. fans of the brand to post selfies in their Calvin Klein Inc., a wholly owned Calvin Klein bedding using the tag line, subsidiary of PVH Corp., will introduce “I [blank] in #mycalvins.” The bedding Calvin Klein Home Modern Cotton Bed- retails from $35 to $240. ding line exclusively at Bloomingdale’s Bloomingdale’s flagship will feature flagship store on July 7. The line will the bedding in its Lexington Avenue become available at additional retailers and 60th Street windows, starting July 7 nationwide starting Aug. 1. The bedding followed by additional in-store activa- Calvin Klein is inspired by Calvin Klein Underwear tions and special appearances that day. bedding will styles and the success of the #mycalvins On Aug. 1, the bedding will be available feature the brand’s social media campaign. at additional Bloomingdale’s, Macy’s, waistband logo on its fitted sheets. The bedding offering is made from the Nordstrom and calvinklein.com. Gosha Rubchinskiy photograph by Frank Mura Frank by photograph Rubchinskiy Gosha