E uropean Fine wine magazineextract of Fine 4/2010 Deutschland · Österreich · S c h w e i z · Skandinavien · G rossbritannien · U S a · A u s t r a l i e n

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Deutschlands Weinelite Harmonie der Aromen Château Mouton Rothschild Die 1000 besten Weine 50 Jahrgänge Bernkasteler Doctor VDP. Die Prädikatsweingüter Hans Stefan Steinheuer Weinprobe & Kunst 432 Seiten · € 29,90 (D) 512 Seiten · € 100,00 (D) 256 Seiten · € 49,90 (D) 288 Seiten · € 99,00 (D)

SÜ ss wein-ikonen ...überall, wo es gute Bücher gibt oder unter www.tretorri.de The Doctor’s Treasure , and time

Text: Till Ehrlich Photos: Alex Habermehl

If wine is a cultural asset and if one appreciates the unique, the specific and the historical in wine — then the writing and the speaking arts have a problem: the more stories that are told, the more we get entangled in them and the more we lose sight of the most important thing: the wine itself­ — a treasure that can ­hardly be expressed in language. To talk about the wines that grow in the Bernkastler Doctor vineyard, is not to get embroiled in historicized tales, but to unwind the cocoon­ — spun by gods as a thread of fortune around the Doctor wine. What has happened to the wine over time? And what has happened to the vineyard site and what is the story of the people who have grown vines there?

Noble bank at the : The Doctorberg above Bernkastel

28 29 F i n e 4 / 2010 F i n e M o s e l The estates Wegeler and Dr. Thanisch held the value proposition of the vineyard over a hundred years up today.

Wegeler Estates

his place is affecting­ — even when viewed tied in a circle on a pole, and whose fruit-bear- years. They have sustained and developed the tra- If one perceives wine growing as part of agri- Tfrom afar. It is situated at the bend of a ­river, ing shoots grow upwards. This typical Mosel vine dition of finestR ieslings, which was started by the culture then it is about the balance between man at the foot of a steep, moderately high ­mountain. training goes back to Roman times; it appears electors of in the 17th century. This conti- and cultivated nature. If nature is too strong the In the north and east the mountain is protected ancient; each plant is manually cared for in every nuity in time is the real treasure of the Doctor. It vineyard transforms itself back to wilderness. If by woods and in the south the light of the sun is aspect. Each one is an ­individual and has always has to do with ethos, with attitude. man dominates a product of eno-industry can reflected and enhanced by the Mosel River. Very had its price in the Doctorberg. On ­hundred gold It is a challenging task, not only to produce a emerge. Man fails and weather and climate as part special however, is the mountain’s black soil. This mark was the sum that Geheimrat (privy coun- fine wine, but also to safeguard high quality for of nature are unpredictable. Despite this, conti- non-colour absorbs the light of the sun in the most cilor) Julius Wegeler paid in ­November 1900 for several generations. The fact that the Wegeler and nuity prevails in the Doctorberg. It is rewarding perfect way. It is slate from the ­Devonian age, one vine, when he took the opportunity to buy Thanisch-Erben Müller-Burggraef wineries suc- to manually produce extraordinary wine in this made poriferous and brittle by time. Its ­layers and about a third of the Doctorberg. It is a sum that is ceeded since the late 19th century in defending extremely steep slope with low yields, since for lamina store the heat and retain such an amount equivalent now to about eight times that value in and re-creating the value of the Doctor for each centuries the Doctorwine has been intricately con- of humidity on their cool face, that is turned away euros. It was not a spontaneous buy, but an oper- vintage is a stroke of luck for the German wine nected with the promise of great quality, which is from the light, so that microorganism grow which ation considered for many years. Until today it is growing culture, which has had its own trials and treasured and appreciated as a fundamental value. enliven the mineral rich soil and prepare nourish- the highest sum ever paid for a ­German vineyard. tribulations in the 20th century and which very Which other site can raise such a claim? World- ment and fertility for the roots of the vines which The fortunes of the wineries founded by Julius nearly has destroyed its own tradition. wide there are certainly only a few in this league. grow deep. They work in the airless depth of the Wegeler — and therefore also for the property in The danger came, in legislative form, with the This was confirmed by the Fine tasting of fifty mountain and create a plethora of nutrients and the Doctorberg — are still in the hands of the 1971 German wine law. Overnight the ­Doctorberg vintages from the Berkasteler Doctor. minerals which allow an enduring plant such as the Wegeler family. For today, Dr. Tom ­Drieseberg, was bigger by two hectares. The Doctorberg was The range of this tasting comprised vintages vine to prosper and enable a wine growing tradi- who jointly with his wife Anja Wegeler-­Drieseberg redesigned on the drawing board and the shady between 2009 and 1921. The tasting did not take tion to emerge. bears the responsibility, the acquisition by Julius east and south east plots were added that are place under the spell of a competitive spirit; it was Such are the preconditions of nature for the Wegeler was more than just a smart commercial ­situated in the Vee of the valley between the also not its aim to find out which of the ­wineries growing of vines at the Doctorberg. However, decision. The Geheimrat was a well known con- Doctor­berg and the castle. The ordinary was produces the better wines. Though, it became very what is the nature of this tradition? Old planta- noisseur and patron of the arts and culture. He diluting the extraordinary. However, both ­families clear, how strong the shaping influence of time is tion boards, etchings and photographs show how has set the seal on this vineyard as a cultural asset stood up against this. Rolf Wegeler battled for for the Doctor’s . Before the great turn- densely the vines were planted. One is almost through the price and the value expressed by it. the winery Geheimrat »J« Wegeler and Walter ing point, the Second World War, wines were shocked and asks where the nutrients should come Since then no other opportunity for buying land ­Müller for the winery Thanisch-Erben Müller- not ­vinified significantly differently than today. from that are necessary for such dense ­plantations. in this 3.2 hectare-sized steep slope has come up. Burggraef. They fought a tough fifteen–year-long Whether it is the unique Trockenbeerenaus- And if one sees the heart shape training of the vines Indeed the two main owners of the Doctor- battle against the German Federal Government lese from 1921, the youthful; 1937 Spätlese, the on wooden poles, the astonishment is even big- berg site, the wineries Wegeler and Thanisch- opposing the enlargement of the sites. And in the refined 1921 Auslese by Thanisch or the untamed ger. What is done in other places with long shoots Erben Müller-Burggraef, have preserved the end they won. Since then the Doctorberg is back Wegeler 2009 Trockenbeerenauslese — yet all the in a wire frame is realized here with two shoots, promise of value of this site over the last hundred to its traditional dimensions. wines had something in common, despite their

30 31 F i n e 4 / 2010 F i n e M o s e l Steep hill went the doctor’s wines, steep downhill going down to Bernkastel.

differences: a complex, vital acidity and a deep quick effects, not at least because these wines are the ­production of wine in a moderate way, so that firm fruity quintessence — present in each of them mainly marketed three years following the ­harvest. the sensitive structure of the wine was not surren- and different at any point in time. His aging abil- To this day the two main important producers in dered to the force of technology. ity is a characteristic of the Doctor. the Doctorberg vineyard have resisted this mar- The great Fine tasting ended in the great art The 1937 Spätlese by Thanisch with its vital ket pressure. A fact that was proven by the tast- deco hall, in which the grapes were received after fruit comes across like a noble wine from the ing with its wonderful long living wines from the they had been picked in the Doctorberg for a 1960s. And the 1921 Trockenbeerenauslese dem- 1990s and 2000s: thus time makes the Doctor. century. The tasting took place shortly before the onstrates how wonderful such wines are, when In 1900 Julius Wegeler first bought the plots beginning of the harvest; the wineries were pre- the typical, almost syrupy sweetness of their youth in the Doctorberg, only then he built the winery pared and in joyful anticipation of what would refines itself through decade long aging and when around it. This shows that he recognized the vine- emerge from the Doctor in 2010. It was a cool it can achieve a fluttering subtlety despite its yard as the most important place of the generat- ­evening and every now and then the candles on the ambrosial abundance. ing of wine. At the same time he built wine cellars tables flickered in the wind. The assembled group The long aging ability of the Doctor does not next to the manor; the underlying idea still rises of people enjoyed a menu composed by Hans only mean storage life, but marks the scope within as a vision into the future. The building is in the ­Stefan Steinheuer, whose sequence of courses which the wines refine themselves during ­bottle most beautiful art deco style with organic arches took up the vitality of the Doctor ­Riesling and maturation. The contemporary Doctor wines and curves. Though, apart from the architectural subtly varied it. There were crayfish, which were are in their youth under more pressure from the beauty it is equipped with modern technology to be found in great numbers in Julius ­Wegeler’s market in terms of their taste being present very based on the principles of gravitation. It makes time in the Mosel and which were considered as quickly. In the past the Doctor stood for wines that use of gravitation and makes the gentle treat- delicate accompaniment with the Riesling by the achieved their appreciation value in good years by ment of the grapes and the wine possible without inhabitants of this area. Steinheuer demonstrated maturing in the bottle: the older a wine was, the pumps. Part of this is an, at the time revolution- how light-footed and inspiring the Doctor can be more it was valued — a fact that showed itself in the ary system of pipes and even the cellar’s heating. with a fine menu. increasing price per bottle. Nowadays many wines Wegeler thus demonstrated a hundred years ago, The previous evening the Swedish Michelin are produced in terms of their aesthetics towards how it was possible to use modern technology in starred chef Ulf Wagner presented a different con- cept at a barbeque evening at the Rundquist family in Reil. The young master chef from Gothenburg, who speaks perfect German — his parents are of German Austrian origin­ — put emphasis on inten- Anyone who prefers the heavier and softer sive, salty aromas creating a complex tension with wines from regions with shorter vegetation peri- the Doctor Riesling. The highlight was a lightly ods — such as the warmer Burgundy — also doesn’t boiled egg yolk; its creamy texture was combined miss out. Though, if one likes to enjoy discrete with cold smoked eel from the Mosel. Together harmony with the most differentiated aromas, with a fruity Doctor Kabinett this opened up an which still prevails after decades, one will ren- intensive aroma experience which skillfully ampli- der homage to this cru, which opens up a further fied the smoky taste of the Doctor. dimension to the enjoyment of wine. One then Barbara Rundquist-Müller, the owner of the takes up an adventure with time and recognizes winery Thanisch-Erben Müller-Burggraef, which its traces in the living wine. Perhaps one comes to owns about one hectare in the Doctorberg vine- understand one’s ancestors with whom the Doc- yard, admitted that she was very nervous before torwine had great popularity — a fact that can- the tasting. And her husband Eric Rundquist not only be explained by them having a better or added that he very much appreciates today’s a different sense of taste. In fact they had a dif- open mindedness that didn’t exist when he and ferent sense of time. Therefore the question for his wife came to the Mosel region in 1983. It was us, the successors is how we retrieve the accu- unthinkable then that two wineries would join mulation of value of human activity and think- up for a Doctor tasting. Over and over again the ing in seeking out the tradition of values. This discussion returned to the wines, whose freshness means in the end nothing more than respecting and vibrancy after so many decades surprised and this wine in each phase of its life — from produc- enthused everyone. tion to enjoyment. > Thanisch, Erben Müller-Burggraef Estate 32 33 F i n e 4 / 2010 F i n e M o s e l 1959 Auslese, Weingut Witwe Dr. H. Thanisch, Second Flight: Astonishment Erben Müller-Burggraef 91 P 1937 Spätlese, Weingut Witwe Dr. H. Thanisch, Glowing gold colour. Fragrant with aromas which allude wild herbs, ripe Erben Müller-Burggraef 94 P mirabelles and honey. A off-dry powerful appearance on the palate. Dry, The wine originates in a great vintage, which still seems to be as vital as if it though with a hint of sweetness, gentle and well balanced. was 30 years younger. Happy the one who can raise such a claim! Pale green 1967 Auslese, Weingut Witwe Dr. H. Thanisch, yellow, delicious bouquet with great depth. Mineral, smoky, in its core: chest- Erben Müller-Burggraef 93 P nut honey. Powerful and supple on the palate. Bitter sweet texture with mag- nificent acidity.I t does not taste sweet. The most beautiful finish with wild Pure golden colour. Tart, predominant honey notes in the bouquet with cam- herb aromas and bitter almond. Lasting! phor and sweet wild herbs. It tastes astonishingly youthful, despite marked ripeness. Juicy powerfull texture with an elegant appearance. Multi-facet- 1948 Spätlese, Weingut Witwe Dr. H. Thanisch, ted taste despite voluptuousness. The sweetness is perfectly well balanced, Erben Müller-Burggraef 89 P stays discreetly in the background. Grace despite opulence. A vintage that has become very rare, there are hardly any bottles anymore 1971 Auslese, Weingüter Geheimrat J. Wegeler 94 P The Great Doctor Tasting around. Deep saturated golden colour. A smoky body of fragrances with notes Fifty Bernkasteler Doctor* Riesling vintages from 1921 to 2009 of chestnut honey and mushrooms. On the palate a fleshy texture. Tastes Rich golden yellow. The body of aromas: raisins with bitter sweet, though smoky and delicate bitter. At the same time a restraint sweetness with a dry harmonious notes. On the palate very subtle. The sweetness comes across overall impression. as gentle, delicious and very well balanced, the acidity juicy and elegant. A Presented by: barbara Rundquist-Müller, Witwe Dr. H. Thanisch, Erben Müller-Burggraef Estate; very subtle Doctor with true elegance. Dr. Tom Drieseberg, Geheimrat J. Wegeler Estates 1971 Spätlese, Weingüter Geheimrat J. Wegeler 90 P Location: Gutshaus Bernkastel, Geheimrat J. Wegeler Estates, on September 9, 2010 1976 Auslese, Weingüter Geheimrat J. Wegeler 96 P A warm golden colour. Exudes delicate wild herb notes before a hint of cam- Taster: Till Ehrlich phor and honey appear. On the palate a distinctive impression of power- An astonishing wine with deep ruby gold colour. Rich mineral nose with Guests: Norbert Breit, Stephen Brook, Albert de Jong, Marcus Del Monego, Dr. Tom Drieseberg, Till Ehrlich, Pierre Enjalbert, ful juiciness and perfect acidity. Elegant body; the aroma appear somehow freshly picked mirabelle and raisins. On the palate a real tension with mag- Maximilian Ferger, Reinhold Forobosko, Ralf Frenzel, Paul Fürst, Daniel Gantenbein, Martin Hinterleitner, slightly diffuse. nificent range. Perfect sweetness, juicy freshness; never trivial, each mouth- Karola Lambeck, Martin S. Lambeck, Alexander Magrutsch, Prof. Dr. Gian Luca Mazzella, Wolfgang Port, ful is different, though always complex and noble. Long finish. Stephan Reinhardt, Barbara Rundquist, Christian Rundquist, Erik Rundquist, Richard Rundquist, Dr. Ulrich Sautter, 1975 Spätlese, Weingüter Geheimrat J. Wegeler 94 P Michael Schmidt, Luzia Schrampf, Hans Stefan Steinheuer, Ulf Wagner, Anja Wegeler-Drieseberg, Jianhua Wu 1983 Auslese, Weingüter Geheimrat J. Wegeler 92 P Warm greenish yellow colour, a classic Riesling bouquet with crisp mira- belles, but also some notes of honey and ripeness. Still a very vibrant body Greenish golden colour. Fresh fragrance with abundant yellow fruit and min- The wines were served in six flights during an afternoon. The wines that Geheimrat »J« Hans Stefan Steinheuer had created a sequence of light of flavours with complex aroma. The sweetness is jauntily put on stage by erality. On the palate sappy and exquisitely creamy. Perfect acidity, noble followed afterwards were served in an open tasting within the context of a courses which corresponded with the pure notes of the wines: variations the intensive acidity. Long finish with tension between sweetness and acid- sweetness, rich in tension. Not very complex, rather energetic and powerful. delicious dinner at the Wegeler family in the Bernkastel manor. To go with of crayfish with white tomato and a vegetable broth. In addition fresh and ity. Strongly expressive. the dry Doctor from 2002 and 2007 as well as the 2007 Riesling mature goats cheese with sourdough bread and brown bread. 1996 Auslese, Weingut Witwe Dr. H. Thanisch, 1990 Spätlese, Weingut Witwe Dr. H. Thanisch, Erben Müller-Burggraef 94 P Erben Müller-Burggraef 92 P First Flight: Popularity Pale yellow with green reflexes.I n the mineral nose a beautiful herby piquancy: 1995 Erste Lage, trocken, 1981 Kabinett, Weingüter Geheimrat J. Wegeler 90 P Greenish golden colour. A truly delicate wine with perfectly ripened acid- wild thyme and mint. A hint of honey too. On the palate a delicious range of Weingüter Geheimrat J. Wegeler 91 P ity. In the nose honey and the sweet tartness of wild mountain herbs. In the sweetness. Tension-rich balanced, with appetizing acidity. The pronounced Perfect glowing gold with green reflexes. Rich bouquet. Very fresh and palate decidedly mineral. The juiciness demands all attention. At the same sweetness does not become dominant. It came from an oversized bottle, was luminescent golden coloured with ­mineral. In the background a fine note of herbal honey. It surprises on the time a freshness rich in tensions, which plays in the finish with a mysteri- green lustre. A vibrant and multi-faceted aroma, appearing very fresh. On palate with a firm core. Stays balanced. The aftertaste of juicy lemon remains. ous natural sweetness. the palate juicy freshness, accompanied by off-dry notes. A lasting impres- 2000 Kabinett, Weingüter Geheimrat J. Wegeler 93 P Fourth Flight: Silence sion of mature freshness and delicious vitality. 1994 Spätlese, Weingüter Geheimrat J. Wegeler 91 P 1959 Beerenauslese, Weingut Witwe Dr. H. The big surprise in this flight! The colour of pale greenish-yellow, a rich bou- 2007 Spätlese trocken, Weingut Witwe Dr. Shining deep gold colour. The fragrances strikingly mineral, smoky and with Thanisch, Erben Müller-Burggraef 96 P quet wit yellow fruit notes, peach and pronounced minerality. On the pal- H. Thanisch, Erben Müller-Burggraef 90 P a sweet touch. Tastes refreshing and multi-layered. The well ripened acidity ate a rich, delicious fruitiness a crystal clear body of its flavours. A wine with Golden Topase with intensive reflexes. A discreet bouquet with aromatic appears in the foreground, later on other notes appear: firstly bitter sweet Light golden colour. Intense aroma of white fleshy peach, combined with a a soft touch, a wine that keeps its aromas in an ingenious harmonious bal- depth. A scent of mint, chestnut honey and pines. On the palate a magnif- ones then herby sweet ones. The sweetness seems mellow, noble and ele- distinct minerality. Beautiful herb notes gradually appear behind the sweet ance. Gentle natural sweetness plays with delicate freshness. Gorgeous fin- icent presence. Supple power with smoothness. A hint of pine and bitter gant balanced. fruity aromas. On the palate notably mineral, appearing masculine, agree- ish of medium length. honey. Acidity and sweetness meet rich in tension. The aftertaste is dense ably powerful taste, well balanced. The finish has fine notes: bittersweet and 1998 Spätlese, Weingut Witwe Dr. H. Thanisch, and slowly fading away. Long. 2009 Kabinett, Weingut Witwe Dr. H. Thanisch, unobtrusive. Erben Müller-Burggraef 93 P Erben Müller-Burggraef 91 P 1969 Beerenauslese, Weingut Witwe Dr. H. 2009 Erste Lage, trocken, Surprisingly pale greenish yellow. Hardly any botrytis, seems still very young. Thanisch, Erben Müller-Burggraef 94 P Pale greenish yellow. Minerality, very well balanced, complex with fine peach Weingüter Geheimrat J. Wegeler 93 P Dense bouquet with pronounced freshness and a seductive sweet note. On and yellow fruit notes. On the palate very present, a carved out sweetness. Buttercup yellow. Fresh nose with a hint of raisin and mint. On the palate a the palate the noble natural sweetness is the centre of attention. I graciously Whitish yellow with emerald green. Complex peachy nose. A dry Doctor, that Well balanced acidity which still is a bit shy. A clear and pronounced finale, raisin like sweetness, very mellow and finely structured. The acidity appears permits the masculine excellent acidity to flow around it: juicy, energetic convinces. On the palate great freshness, astral body and clear fruit. Juicy with an increasingly differentiating sweetness. The finish is multi-facetted more elegant than prominent. A surprisingly fresh Doctor considering its and beautiful. Long finish.H as improved significantly through years of bot- structure with a subtle playfulness and harmonious proportions. Dense in and medium long. age. Well balanced and subtle. tle maturation. taste, though never too flamboyant or even crude – always on the elegant 1971 Beerenauslese, side. It still needs time to develop and flourish in the glass. Weingüter Geheimrat J. Wegeler 92 P 1973 Kabinett, Weingüter Geheimrat J. Wegeler 92 P * Since 1995 the Wegeler estates have been classifying their dry grand crus from the Third Flight: Exaltation Bernkasteler Doctor sites in the same way as it was done more than hundred years Medium deep gold colour. Honey like bouquet with pineapple, thyme and 1949 Auslese, Weingüter Geheimrat J. Wegeler 89 P Glistening, glowing gold colour with green lustre. In the nose a decided fresh- ago: as »Bernkastel Doctor Rieling«. Since a few years the VDP (Verband Deutscher salt. Tastes markedly juicy. Though a rather beautiful sweetness: intensive, ness with beautiful notes of herbs and a hint of honey. Smoky, mineral and Pradikatsweingüter, i.e.Association of German Predicate Wine Estates) endorsement Greenish golden colour. The bottle age characterised by honey. A fragrance of but not dominant. Densely structured, but not too concentrated. Despite vibrant. Very present mature and pleasant tones. The finish gloriously fresh »Erste Lage« (First Growth) has been added. Fruity and noble sweet crus however, are minerality and some beewax. Powerful masculine body of flavours with a bit- its power elegant. The finish, exquisite and long. and juicy with an elegant appeal. marketed as »Bernkastel Doctor Riesling Erste Lage« with the predicate classifica- ter sweet disposition. Juicy and very dry. Medium finish.I ts age is noticeable. tions: Spätlese, Auslese etc. 34 35 F i n e 4 / 2010 F i n e M o s e l 1983 Eiswein, Weingüter Geheimrat J. Wegeler 94 P 2000 Trockenbeerenauslese, Weingüter Geheimrat J. Wegeler 93 P Open Tasting: Inspired Conversation Amber coloured gold topase. Raisin like fragrance with etheric aromas. On the palate an exquisite complexity. The sweetness harmoniously balanced Warm amber colour. Complex fruity nose with much freshness and a lot of 2000 Spätlese, Weingut Witwe Dr. H. Thanisch, 2008 Spätlese, Weingut Witwe Dr. H. Thanisch, with ripe acidity – a subtle interplay with lot of expression. Does not taste sweet aromas. On the palate to begin with a stupendous sweetness, which Erben Müller-Burggraef 88 P Erben Müller-Burggraef 91 P too sweet. Fine texture with nuances, though dense and decided. fills the entire palate. Later on the wine becomes more differentiated: an Pale yellow with hints of lime green. Steely mineral flavour with a sweet Greenish yellow. Slight mineral minty nose with fair notes of blossoms. Also elegant sweetness appears, an intricate lively interplay between acidity and 1989 Beerenauslese, Weingut Witwe Dr. H. touch. On the palate surprisingly finely structured with almost playful juic- on the palate rather delicate and tangy. Lots of subtle delicate natural sweet- sweetness begins. The finish has a great deal of juiciness and wonderful car- Thanisch, Erben Müller-Burggraef 95 P iness. The natural sweetness unfolds very slowly. The body of tastes appears ness, underpinned by bitter sweet aromas. The acidity unfolds slowly, though amel tones. It has potential, still needs time. pure, but it lacks a bit of tension. it is there. Good potential. Gold topase with caramel like bouquet. Fragrant with mint, a touch of rai- 2003 Trockenbeerenauslese, sins and candied almonds. On the palate a expressive taste with dark sweet- 2001 Spätlese, Weingüter Geheimrat J. Wegeler 89 P 2003 Beerenauslese, Weingut Witwe Dr. H. Weingüter Geheimrat J. Wegeler 96 P ness at the core. The acidity stays discreetly in the background, though it is Thanisch, Erben Müller-Burggraef 92 P Shining bright greenish yellow. Restraint bouquet with a slight freshness of present. A wine matured in beauty with many layers. The aftertaste full of Buttercup yellow with orange reflexes.R estraint mineral body of scents with herbs and a small amount of yellow fruit. An attractive flavour with juicy Pale gold with an apple green rim. Beautiful bouquet with dripping ripe fruit, intense sweetness. Minty freshness marks the final chord. the green of fennel and fresh white bread. On the palate concentrated sweet- acidity, playing with a delicate natural sweetness. A Doctor that seems light such as peach, greengage and Mirabelle. On the palate even more complex ness, though the robust acidity holds against and lends the Doctor momen- 1997 Beerenauslese, Weingut Witwe Dr. H. footed, almost weightless. texture with solid freshness and bitter sweet tones. Though markedly tangy. tum and tension in terms of taste. It has potential for bottle maturation. Thanisch, Erben Müller-Burggraef 92 P The sweetness appears still predominant, though has the potential to become 2002 Spätlese, Weingut Witwe Dr. H. Thanisch, 2005 Trockenbeerenauslese, Weingut Witwe Dr. more differenciated through bottle maturation. Good long finish. Pale glistening gold. A bitter sweet bouquet with a hint of raisings and mint. Erben Müller-Burggraef 90 P H. Thanisch, Erben Müller-Burggraef 93 P On the palate rich smoothness. Very fine raisin aromas with a hint of cara- 2001 Beerenauslese, Weingut Witwe Dr. H. Pale greenish yellow. A hint of white blossoms and yeast. On the palate a mel. Overall a fine wines with a supple body and an elegant sweetness, which Buttercup yellow with orange reflexes.R estraint mineral body of scents with Thanisch, Erben Müller-Burggraef 92 P zesty sweetness with a powerfull structure. A beautiful tarty freshness, though as dark nuances. Beautiful finish. the green of fennel and fresh white bread. On the palate concentrated sweet- overall still very soft and gentle. At the moment it lacks a little the tension Yellow and oft. On the nose peach, mint and greengage. And it tastes like ness, though the robust acidity holds against and lends the Doctor momen- 2004 Eiswein, Weingüter Geheimrat J. Wegeler 94 P within the flavours, though this Doctor has potential. that: heavenly sweet, with an aromatic abundance, rich and subtle. Only the tum and tension in terms of taste. It has potential for bottle maturation. acidity is currently missing like the salt in the soup. However, it is present and Pale gold lime tinted colour. Beguiling scent with lively freshness of fruit: 2002 Spätlese, Weingüter Geheimrat J. Wegeler 90 P the future development raises the hopes that it will become more prevalent. white peach and pineapple. On the palate very smooth, with perfect acid- Gold with emerald. A strikingly concentrated nose of stone fruits, pineapple ity and concentrated sweetness. Does not feel sticky in the mouth despite Sixth Flight: Humility 2006 Beerenauslese, Weingut Witwe Dr. H. and mint. A whiff of lime-tree blossom honey. Exquisite flavour. Juicy, pow- strong sweetness. A wine with contours though very clear and to the point. 1921 Trockenbeerenauslese, Weingut Witwe Dr. Thanisch, Erben Müller-Burggraef 92 P erful, though never over proportioned or one-dimensional. A delicate wine. H. Thanisch, Erben Müller-Burggraef 100 P Bright pure gold. Glorious bouquet with a wealth of fully ripe fruit, such as 2003 Spätlese, Weingüter Geheimrat J. Wegeler 90 P Fifth Flight: Emotion It is often called the vintage of the 20th century. This Doctor was the first pineapple, maracuja, mirabelle. On the palate an immense sweetness with Trockenbeerenauslese at the middle Mosel, it has founded the reputation Shining greenish yellow colour. Deep lemony fragrance, which however, minerality and gently tarty nuances. The taste of raisins reminds of ambro- 1959 Trockenbeerenauslese, of the Thanisch wine estate. Mahagony colour with traces of gold. Tarty seems a bit restraint. On the palate minarl and pure natural sweetness which sial nectar. If only there was the counterforce: the acidity is still too reticent. Weingüter Geheimrat J. Wegeler 94 P bouquet with walnut, mocha, mint, wild thyme and saltiness. Does not meets a juicy acidity. It tastes delicat, fine and sappy. The wine is currently too sweet, still needs time. Warm amber colour. Exquisite bouquet with walnut, chestnut honey and cress. taste sweet. Slowly develops in the mouth. Firstly the life preserving salti- 2004 Spätlese, Weingut Witwe Dr. H. Thanisch, 2005 Trockenbeerenauslese, In the first instant it does not taste sweet, but tangy, slightly malty and bit- ness awakes from its almost 90 year old sleep. Followed by the caramel like, Erben Müller-Burggraef 89 P Weingüter Geheimrat J. Wegeler 96 P ter sweet. The finish has a wonderful acidity, still very lively and surprising. almost malty sweetness. It begins to swing and fills the palate with pleasant taste. The aftertaste is extraordinary. Pale golden colour. Mineral, steely nose. Tastes juicy and elegant at the same Shining gold hue. Voluptuous, almost exotic nose of maracuja, pineapple, 1976 Trockenbeerenauslese, time. Very lively natural sweetness, which appears a bit ostensible. The acid- mint and honey. A aromatic richness develops also on the palate; in its cen- Weingüter Geheimrat J. Wegeler 98 P ity is ripe and well structured, though never in the background. It still needs tre is the ambrosial sweetness. In addition there is a fantastic acidity, which, Golden amber. Complex bouquet with a hint of iodine, mint and caramel. bottle maturation. however, is still sleeping. It can stay in its sleep, since this Doctor has poten- On the palate a supple body. Vivid freshness and exquisite caramel notes. tial for several years. An almost daunting wine, which does not only have 2005 Spätlese, Weingüter Geheimrat J. Wegeler 90 P The sweetness unfold with elegance and does not stick. The overall impres- depth and complexity, but also playfulness and refinement. sion: liquid beauty, animating and sappy. This wine has everything to give A beautiful wine, tangy, mineral and decidedly appetizing. The overall body 2007 Trockenbeerenauslese, happiness: delicately structured proportions, gentleness, refinement and of flavours seems cool and pure; fruitiness and acidity interact in a won- Weingüter Geheimrat J. Wegeler 98 P length. Just splendid. derful interplay. It comes across as elegant and charming. Good long finish. Pure gold. On the nose a cornucopia of exotic fruit, dense and concentrate. 1994 Trockenbeerenauslese, Weingut Witwe Dr. 2006 Spätlese, Weingut Witwe Dr. H. Thanisch, On the palate prevails at first the immense sweetness. With time the fine H. Thanisch, Erben Müller-Burggraef 92 P Erben Müller-Burggraef 90 P nuances appear: minerality and pure notes. The sweetness is balanced by a The colour of amber. Ripe bouquet with freshness, caramel, malt, walnut and Greenish yellow. Tangy boquet with notes of peache and mountain meadow fantastic acidity, which keeps itself at the moment shyly in the background. a hint of iodine. On the palate fine and differentiated. Well proportioned honey. The honey notes are also clearly present on the palate; so is the ­natural Though it is all of a piece. A striking wine, that needs to be tamed by time. body with beguiling sweetness and filigree acidity. Thou graciously expressive. sweetness, underpinned by gently tart notes. A wine with a firm core, how- Potential for years to come. ever also a currently predominant sweetness. It has potential for further 1996 Trockenbeerenauslese, Weingut Witwe Dr. 2009 Trockenbeerenauslese, development. H. Thanisch, Erben Müller-Burggraef 95 P Weingüter Geheimrat J. Wegeler 97 P 2007 Spätlese, Weingüter Geheimrat J. Wegeler 91 P Brilliant golden reflexes. A highly nuanced bouquet with etheral aromas, Bright topase. Voluptuous bouquet with dripping complex fruit. Reminis- minerality and heavenly sweetness. On the palate rich in delicious sweet- Pale yellow with green reflexes. A beautiful bouquet of blossoms with a steely cent of pineapple, peach, Mirabelle, raisin and mint – but going beyond that. ness, which meets the acidity of greengages. Poignant and focused. Overall basis. Tastes youthful and juicy. In the background the complexity gives notice, The flavour is demanding. The wine shows despite untamed sweetness and juicy, with finely balanced aromas. The finish displays once more the robust which will allow the wine to achieve great maturity. It is based on a pres- acidity also the finest balance and proportions. Great depth; firm on the pal- acidity, which is however, permeated by exquisite sweetness. ent natural sweetness with a firm core. Overall rich in tension and vibrant. ate with excellent acidity. Still embryonic. This Doctor will be made by time.

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