Mosel Fine Wines “The Independent Review of Mosel Riesling”

By Jean Fisch and David Rayer

www.moselfinewines.com page 0 Issue No 54 - October 2020

Mosel Fine Wines “The Independent Review of Mosel Riesling”

By Jean Fisch and David Rayer

Maximin Grünhaus

Weingut Maximin Grünhaus (Mertesdorf – Trier-Ruwer) Complement

NB: The Estate Review, including the bulk of the 2019er wines, was published in the Mosel Fine Wines Issues No 52 (Jun 2020) and the auction wines were reviewed in Issue No 53 (Aug 2020). A copy of these Issues is available to all subscribers upon simple email request.

2019er Maximin Grünhaus Maximin Grünhäuser Abtsberg Riesling Trocken GG 16 20 93

The 2019er Maximin Grünhäuser Abtsberg Riesling Trocken GG was fermented spontaneously and matured in traditional old Fuder casks. It offers a subtly backward nose driven by pear, cassis, minty elements, herbs, and spices, all wrapped into reductive elements of smoke and wet stone. The wine proves beautifully playful and elegant on the juicy palate and leaves oneMosel with a great Finefeel of wh Winesite peach, eld erflower, smoke, and minty elements in the long and superbly precise finish. A dash of tartness adds class “Theto the Independent refined yet intense Review after of Mosel-taste. Riesling” This gorgeous dry wine will be a winner at maturity, in a few years. 2024-2034 By Jean Fisch and David Rayer Return to Table of Contents (Alphabetic List of Estates) voMaxin Othegravenmin Grünhaus

WeinWeingutgut Maxivon Othegravemin Grünhan us (Kanzem(Mertesdorf – Sa– Triar)er -Ruwer ) ComComplplemeementnt

NBNB:: The Estate ReviewReview, incincludingluding tthehe bulk of the 2019er wiwinesnes, wwasas publishedpublished in the MosMoselel FinFinee WinWineses Issues NNoo 52 (Ju(Jun 2020) and the auction wwinesines werewere reviewed in IssuIssuee No 53 (Aug 220020). A copy of ththesese IssuIssueses is aavailabvailablele to all ssubscriubscribbersers upon simplesimple email rerequest.quest.

2019er2019er vMaxion Othegravmin Grünhausen KanzemerMaximin Grünhäuser Altenberg RieslAbtsingberg Tro Riceslingken GG Tro cken GG 1916 20 9931

The 2012019er9er MaximiAltenbergn Grünhäuser GG, as it is Abt referredsberg Rieto onsling the Tro cockennsume GGr label,was fermen was fermentedted spontaneou spontanslyeo andusly mature and agedd in traditionalin stainless old s tFudeeel for rcask 10 monthss. It offers. It offersa subt aly subduebackward dnose nose of d wetriven st obyne, pea grapefruit,r, cassis, starfruit, minty ele whippedments, creamherbs,, andcamphor, spices, a ndall smwrappeoke. Thed into wine reduc is tiverather elements impactful of onsmoke the juic andy ratherwet stone. than boThene wine-dry tastingproves pabeautifullylate and playfuleavesl andsome el egantelements on the of jcardauicy pamomlate andand mirableaveselle one in withthe ovea greatrall pofeelwe ofrful wh andite peachassertive, eld fierflower,nish. Th esmoke, after- tasteand mintyis all abeleomeut ntsherbs in theand long wet stoandne. superbly This sligh precisetly bigger finish. expre A dashssio nof of tartne Altenbergss adds GG cl aswills btoe thebest refined enjoyed yet in intense the earlier after part-taste. of its This develop gorgeousment. dry 2021 wine-202 w7ill be a winner at maturity, in a few years. 2024-2034 2019er von Othegraven Ockfener Bockstein Riesling Trocken GG 18 20 91 Return to Table of Contents (Alphabetic List of Estates)

Thevon Othegraven 2019er Bockstein GG, as it is referred to on the consumer label, was fermented spontaneously and aged in large wooden cask for 10 months. It offers a rather reduced nose made of camphor, pear, mirabelle, earthy spices, and some smoky elements. The wine is on the powerful and juicy sideWein ongut the von not Othegravefully bone-ndr y tasting palate and leaves an animating and subtly fruit-driven feel in the finish. More camphor and earthy spices add to the presence and impact of this nicely balanced and persistent wine. 2022-2029 (Kanzem – Saar) Complement

2019er von Othegraven Kanzemer Riesling Trocken 17 20 88 NB : The Estate Review, including the bulk of the 2019er wines, was published in the Mosel Fine Wines Issues No 52 (Jun 2020) and the auction wTheines 201 were9er reviewedKanzemer in IssueRieslin Nog Tro53 c(Augken comes2020). Afro copym the of lthowerese Issupart esof isth aeva Altenbergilable to all. It subscrioffers baers subtl upoy nc resimpleamy noseemail ofre quest.gooseberry , elderflower, camphor, herbs, spices, and smoke. The wine proves nicely focused and zesty on the palate and leaves a juicy (even if not bone-dry) feel in the long2019er and herbavonl Othegravfinish. Thisen is nicely made in a somewhatKanzemer direct A andltenberg arom Rieslatic ingsty le.Tro Nowcken- 2GG027 19 20 91

The2019er 2019er vAonltenberg Othegraven GG, as it is referred to on theRiesl coningsume Trorcke label,n Max w as fermented spontaneously and aged in stain16less 20 steel fo r 10 months86 . It offers a subdued nose of wet stone, grapefruit, starfruit, whipped cream, camphor, and smoke. The wine is rather impactful on the juicy rather than boThene 2019er-dry tasting Riesl paingla tTerocken and leaves Max somecomes elements from younger of carda vinesmom in andthe mirabWawerneelle rin Herrenberg the overall apos wewellrful as and declas assertivesified ficanish.sks Thfrome after the -tasteKanzem is aller abAltoenutberg herbs and and Ockfener wet stone. Bock Thisstein sligh. Ittly offers bigger an e ovxpreertlssioy aromaticn of Altenberg nose madeGG w iofll bstarfruie best te, njoyedginger, in aniseed the earlier herbs, part vin of eyaits developrd peachm,en a t.hint 2021 of- 202whippe7 d cream, and pungent smoky elements. The wine is smooth and subtly silky on the not bone-dry palate but proves utterly mouthwatering in the finish. This2019 Estateer vRionesli Othegravenng is nice, direct, and satisfying. In otherOckfener words Bockstein, it does Ri theesl ingtrick. Trocken Now-202 GG7 18 20 91

Return to Table of Contents (Alphabetic List of Estates) The 2019er Bockstein GG, as it is referred to on the consumer label, was fermented spontaneously and aged in large wooden cask for 10 months. It offers a rather reduced nose made of camphor, pear, mirabelle, earthy spices, and some smoky elements. The wine is on the powerful and juicy side on the not fully bone-dry tasting palate and leaves an animating and subtly fruit-driven feel in the finish. More camphor and earthy spices add to the presence and impact of this nicely balanced and persistent wine. 2022-2029

2019er von Othegraven Kanzemer Riesling Trocken 17 20 88

The 2019er Kanzemer Riesling Trocken comes from the lower part of the Altenberg. It offers a subtly creamy nose of gooseberry, elderflower, camphor, herbs, spices, and smoke. The wine proves nicely focused and zesty on the palate and leaves a juicy (even if not bone-dry) feel in the longwww.moselfinewines.com and herbal finish. This is nicely made in a somewhat direct and arompage at63ic style. Now-2027 Issue No 54 - October 2020

2019er von Othegraven Riesling Trocken Max 16 20 86

The 2019er Riesling Trocken Max comes from younger vines in the Wawerner Herrenberg as well as declassified casks from the Kanzemer Altenberg and Ockfener Bockstein. It offers an overtly aromatic nose made of starfruit, ginger, aniseed herbs, vineyard peach, a hint of whipped cream, and pungent smoky elements. The wine is smooth and subtly silky on the not bone-dry palate but proves utterly mouthwatering in the finish. This Estate Riesling is nice, direct, and satisfying. In other words, it does the trick. Now-2027

Return to Table of Contents (Alphabetic List of Estates)

www.moselfinewines.com page 63 Issue No 54 - October 2020

Mosel Fine Wines “The Independent Review of Mosel Riesling”

By Jean Fisch and David Rayer

Stefan Müller

Weingut Stefan Müller (Krettnach – Saar)

2019er Stefan Müller Krettnacher Altenberg Riesling Trocken 03 20 92

The 2019er Krettnacher Altenberg Riesling Trocken comes from the Estate’s parcel in the prime, Diabas-infused, Ober Schäfershaus part of the vineyard. It offers a gorgeous nose made of white peach, smoky slate, a hint of laurel, white apple, Conference pear, and some floral elements. The wine is still rather firm at first on the palate but some gloriously fresh juicy peach anMoseld a hint of whi Finepped cre Winesam as well a s loads of chalky minerals all add depth to the experience. The finish is still on the tart side at this early st“Theage, Independentbut the after Review-taste u nofd eMoselrlines Riesling”the wine ’s finesse and intense lightness. This great dry Riesling will really shine in a couple of years. 2024-2034 (Reprint from Mosel Fine Wines Issue No 51 – May 2020) By Jean Fisch and David Rayer Return to Table of Contents (Alphabetic List of Estates)

Stefavon Othegn Müllerraven

WeingutWeingut Stefanvon Othegra Müllerven ((KaKrenzemttnac h– –Sa Saarar) )

2201019er8er Stefvon aOthegravenn Müller KWiltingerrettnach Kupper Alt eRnbieslingerg R iTroeslicnkgen Tro GGcken 0320 20 Auct ion 9922+

ThThee 20182019eerr WilKretittngernach Kuper Altenp Riebserligng Ri Trockenesling T GGrocke wnas co fermmese ntedfrom sthepont Eanstaete’sous lypa arndcel aing edthe on p riitsme lees, Diab in aslar-geinfused wood, eOnber cas Sckshäf fore 22rsh ausmon thspart (he of nthece vineits lateyard AP. It onfumber)fers a gorg. It ofeousfers naos subtlye ma daempl of whe anited peac veryh ,elegant smoky snoselate, ofa hunderripint of lauerel pineapple, white appl, free,sh Co cnfereoconutnce, lanpeoline,ar, an dbe sorgmeamot, flor aelderl eleflments.ower, Thande wimacnee isra testilld rpearathe.r Thefirm winat firse prot onv esthe rat pahelater li gbhtut- somweigeht gledo ratious firstly freshon the jui palcy peacate buth a tnhden a hintreve ofal swhi a subtppedly cre butteamr yas creaminess well as loads wra ofpped cha lkintoy min someraels ta artll addminerals dept han tod athe d aeshxp erienof zestyce. Tacidityhe fin ishright is int stoill theon ltheong tart an dside smoo at thth finis isearh.ly R ipesta gflae, voburst theof m airabelfter-taleste, greeng underlinagee,s athend swtiarne ’aniss finee ssblende a ndinto inte somense ligtanhtnessnic elem. Thiensts gre andat drymak Riesle foring a smootwill reahl laynd shin currene in atly cou noplet bo ofne ye-dryars. fe 2el02 in4 -t2034he long (R efinish.print f romA fresh Moseer la Fnidne huge Winesly classy Issue Nofeel 5 o1f –sm Mayoke, 2 02almond0) , and candied lime brings brightness to the after-taste. The finesse of this lightly oak-influenced expression of Riesling is hugely impressive, especially as the wine develops more precision and freshness overRetu thern fe tow Ta dable ysof Cthontentsat we (Al tastedphabeti ci tL.ist W ofe Est wouldates) therefore not be surprised if this superb dry Riesling would surprise us all at maturity as it integrates its tannic elements. 2026-2033+ (Reprint from Mosel Fine Wines Issue No 53 – August 2020) von Othegraven

Return to Table of Contents (Alphabetic List of Estates) Weingut von Othegraven Paulinshof (Kanzem – Saar)

Weingut Paulinshof 201(Ke8esrt en –v oMidn Othegravendle Mosel ) Wiltinger Kupp Riesling Trocken GG 20 20 Auction 92+

The 2018er Wiltinger Kupp Riesling Trocken GG was fermented spontaneously and aged on its lees in large wooden casks for 22 months (hence its201 late9er AP nPaulumber)inshof. It offers a subtly ample and veryBraun eleganteberger nose Juff erof-So underripnnenuher Riepineapplesling Spätles, freshe Tr cooconutcken , lanoline,09 be 20rg amot, elder flower,92 and m acerated pear. The wine proves rather light-weighted at first on the palate but then reveals a subtly buttery creaminess wrapped into some tart mineralsThe 201 9aner dBrau a dneashberg of erzesty Juf facidityer-Son nerightnu hintr Rieslo thei nlgong Spätlese and smoo Trotchk efinn isofh.fe Rrsipe a ratheflavorrs big of yemirabelt engagingle, greeng nosea gemade, an do fs mtare lon,anis pee blarend, citr intousy somefruits, telderannicfl owerelem,en cassis,ts and e makarthye sforpic aes smoot, aniseedh and her currenbs, andtly plenotn boty neof -smodry fkyeel ele inm thentse long. Th finish.e wine A is fresh big ander a nquited huge assely classyrtive on feel the opalatf smeoke, but, almond as so ,o andften caat ndthiised Esta limete ,bring it provess brig hintne noss w tayo the broa aftder or-taste. overpoweri The finesng. seThe of finthish light is prely oaciske-inf, inteluencednse, a exprnd taesrt.si Tonhi so fb Riesleautifingul dryis hug Rieslingely im pwreillss biveenef, esit frompecial aly few as theyears win oef bottdevelel oagpsin moreg as tprhise cisionwill all owand it freshness to shed its ove touchr the of fe tarw tdanessys thandat weprimar tastedy roug it. Wh edge wouldes. This therefore is a g orgeonot beu ssurpri success!sed if 20 this24 -s2up03erb4 ( Redryprint Rie sfromling wouldMosel suFinerprise Wines us allIssue at maturi No 53ty – as Au itgust integrate 2020)s its tannic elements. 2026-2033+ (Reprint from Mosel Fine Wines Issue No 53 – August 2020)

ReturnReturn to Taableble ooff ContentsContents (Alphabetic(Alphabetic ListList ooff Estates)Estates)

Paulinshof

Weingut Paulinshof (Kesten – Middle Mosel)

2019er Paulinshof Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese Trocken 09 20 92

The 2019er Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese Trocken offers a rather big yet engaging nose made of melon, pear, citrusy fruits, elderflower, cassis, earthy spices, aniseed herbs, and plenty of smoky elements. The wine is big and quite assertive on the palate but, as so often at this Estate, it proves in no way broad or overpowering. The finish is precise, intense, and tart. This beautiful dry Riesling will benefit from a few years of bottle aging as this will allow it to shed its touch of tartness and primary rough edges. This is a gorgeous success! 2024-2034 (Reprint from Mosel Fine Wines Issue No 53 – August 2020) www.moselfinewines.com Return to Table of Contepagent s116 (Alphabet ic List of Estates) Issue No 54 - October 2020