BRIDGET FOLEY’S DIARY: Ten Things to Love About the New York Season — Page 4

WWDTUESDAY, FEBRUARY 22, 2011 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY ■ $3.00 GETTING DOWN Moncler Said Eyeing Public Offering by June

By LUISA ZARGANI

MILAN — Moncler Group is revving current exchange rate. up to launch an initial public offer- The Carlyle Group, which owns ing in the fi rst half, possibly in June. 48 percent of Moncler, is consid- According to sources, the Italian ering the IPO for the group as a company has tapped Banca Imi, whole. “Each [brand] has a differ- Morgan Stanley and Bofa-Merrill ent customer, business model, iden- Lynch as global coordinators. tity and management,” said Marco The plan is to fl oat up to 50 per- De Benedetti, managing director of cent of Moncler on the Milan Stock Carlyle, describing the other fi rms in Exchange. the group as “more sportswear and In addition to the Moncler functional and less luxury.” brand, the Moncler Group includes Remo Ruffini, the firm’s presi- high-end sportswear labels Henry dent and creative director, credits Cotton’s, Marina Yachting and Coast, his intuitive choices as driving the Weber & Ahaus, and it holds the li- Moncler brand’s evolution from a cense for Cerruti. The group closed collection of utilitarian, down-fi lled 2010 with sales of 426 million euros, apparel with mostly local distribu- or $562.3 million. tion into a fashionable, international Sources estimate that, if listed, label. From early projects with de- the group could be valued at about signers such as Nicolas Ghesquière 1.1 billion euros, or $1.5 billion at SEE PAGE 2

IN WWD TODAY

New Blends at Première Vision STYLE, PAGE 6 TEXTILES: With skyrocketing prices for cotton, designers were seeking lower cost alternatives at the textile show in Paris.

The Accessories Trends PAGE 5 ACCESSORIES: A roundup of key accoutrements for fall seen during New York Fashion Week.

A New Generation for ck one PAGE 6 ADVERTISING: Calvin Klein unveils the ad campaign for its new apparel collection, ck one, which includes print and a large social The Trench media component. Connection Riffi ng on Burberry Prorsum’s famous outerwear, Christopher Bailey showed a collection driven by coats. There were voluminous Sixties silhouettes along with sleeker military styles, as in this leather-trimmed trench with fox fur shoulders. For more on the London season, see Style, pages 2 to 5.

PHOTO BY GIANNONI GIOVANNI 2 WWD tuesday, february 22, 2011 WWD.COM Moncler Headed for IPO, Possibly by June {Continued from page one} most,” said De Benedetti. The brand currently has 46 stores. and Junya Watanabe to ad campaigns shot by Bruce Weber, Ruffini is hard pressed to Moncler brand revenues in 2009 totaled 220 million euros, or $305.8 million at av- explain his decisions, except to say that he’s always followed his “instincts.” erage exchange. Sales for 2010 have not been revealed but they are estimated to have But it’s also apparent there is a clear-cut strategy behind the company’s ex- been 261 million euros, or $345 million at current exchange. The summer season now pansion. Ruffini, who acquired Moncler in accounts for almost a third of sales, while it used 2003, immediately focused on “returning to to be “almost nonexistent,” said De Benedetti. the brand’s roots, adding a contemporary Moncler was initially a wholesale busi- and technological edge.” Also, international ness, but Carlyle has accelerated expansion growth has always been a priority through “a of the brand’s retail division in the past two directly and tightly controlled and exclusive years. The latter accounts today for 30 percent distribution.” of sales and De Benedetti said he expected it In order to create a cohesive statement, to represent half of revenues in three years. Ruffini stripped down Moncler to its essence: Last fall, stores opened in Seoul; Lugano, the down jacket. “I didn’t want to overburden Switzerland, and Munich, followed by units the consumer with too many features, it had to in Shanghai and Chicago in November and be a clear and simple message,” he recalled. In Beijing in December. Another venue in Beijing addition, the entrepreneur was quick to under- will open this year. Over the next three years, stand that financial muscle would help further the company plans to open 10 stores in China. sustain the expansion and so sold a 48 percent Geographically, Italy accounts for 43 percent stake in the company to private equity fund of sales, followed by the rest of Europe, which Carlyle in 2008. represents 35 percent of revenues. The Far East/ “This was essentially an Italian brand, but, rest of the world and the U.S. make up 16 percent from Day One, I was convinced that it had the and 6 percent of sales, respectively. potential to become global,” said De Benedetti. In Japan, which is an historical market for “Remo was on the right track, and I thought Moncler, the company sharpened its whole- Carlyle could concretely help accelerate sale network, but Ruffini also said it was a Moncler’s internationalization.” “priority” to open a Tokyo flagship this year. Both Ruffini and De Benedetti support a pub- In February 2010, Moncler teamed up with lic offering. “We are preparing for the IPO, it’s Comme des Garçons on a selection of spe- an opportunity for the company to be more inter- cial products and a retail concept, a project national and have more visibility,” said Ruffini. dubbed Moncler 365. There are 10 shops-in- “Yes, our objective is an IPO, it’s one of the shops in Japan. things that we shared since the beginning as The company’s high-fashion collaborations part of the foundations for a global brand,” include Moncler Gamme Rouge for women, de- concurred De Benedetti. He stressed, though, signed by Giambattista Valli, and Moncler Gamme that there is “no need for new capital” and Bleu for men by Thom Browne. In February 2010, that the IPO will simply help the company the company introduced its technical ski range take “a long-term perspective. As a fund, this Moncler Grenoble, named after the French town is a term investment per definition.” where the company was founded in 1952. The fall While Prada Group has chosen Hong Kong collection was shown last week at Grand Central for its IPO, De Benedetti said Moncler is a Looks from Moncler’s fall collection. Terminal during New York Fashion Week. “European company. I think it will maintain Carlyle III, which is the pan-European fund its roots, and list where these roots and values that made the investment in Moncler, sits on a are.” In any case, De Benedetti and Ruffini are adamant that Moncler will remain cash pile of 5.5 billion euros, or $7.2 billion, and has invested half of this sum, said De a luxury brand. Benedetti. The fund continues to look at the fashion sector for further investments, “We have no plans to over-distribute the label, we want to count 100 stores at the although De Benedetti conceded this is “not a sector for all.” Haggar Takes on Neema Private Label Business By ARNOLD J. KARR The rights to the Bert Pulitzer name were licensed to Perseus LLC. Buxbaum took the reins as ceo two years ago. Haggar by Global Licensing Co. LLC and include men’s Neema’s brands include Haspel, BCBG and Emanuel HAGGAR CLOTHING CO. has acquired certain pri- suits, sport coats, blazers, topcoats, tuxedos, vests and tai- Ungaro, and its principal retail accounts include vate label assets of Neema Clothing Ltd. and, as part of lored slacks bearing the Bert Pulitzer trademark. Neema, Macy’s, Bloomingdale’s, Dillard’s, Lord & Taylor, J.C. transaction, added the Bert Pulitzer license for a num- based in New York, had held the license for 15 years. Penney, Nordstrom, Belk, Hudson Bay, Von Maur, Sears, ber of men’s tailored clothing categories. “The Haggar brand is a staple in the men’s dress and Boscov’s and Bon-Ton. Financial details of the deal weren’t disclosed. tailored category with long-standing consumer prefer- Officials at Haggar and Neema were unavailable on “We purchased the men’s private label dress and ence and awareness,” said Jon Ragsdale, senior vice pres- Monday to discuss the account structure of the private clothing business Neema has developed with sev- ident of marketing and merchandising at Haggar. “The label business. eral department store retailers in the country,” said addition of Neema’s private label business, including the The Bert Pulitzer brand was owned by Meshulam Paul Buxbaum, chief executive officer of Dallas-based Bert Pulitzer brand, will enhance the remarkable growth Riklis’ Rapid-American Corp. prior to the establishment Haggar. “This purchase enables Haggar to leverage Haggar Clothing Co. has experienced in recent years.” of Global Licensing. Bert Pulitzer serves as partner and its experience as a leading developer and supplier of Haggar was publicly held before its 2005 sale for $212 director of design for XMI Corp., a men’s furnishings men’s dress clothing.” million to Infinity Partners, Symphony Holdings and and sportswear company based in Stamford, Conn.

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FEBRUARY 18, 2011 REPORT NEW THE RUNWAY YORK

J.MENDEL DENNIS BASSO YIGAL AZROUËL MICHAEL KORS OSCAR DE LA RENTA

here was a theme that echoed in our conversa- ging dresses, pleated skirts and jackets. For fur, the tex- jackets and long double-faced bathrobe coats came in tions with many designers in the weeks leading ture story was told through the combinations of fur an array of colors — including nude, blush, plum, plati- Tup to Fashion Week. Their customers, having types and techniques. Russian sable was dyed in rich num, black and crimson — and epitomized the sport- held back their purchasing for the last two fall/winter new colors — smoke, khaki, graphite and spice tones. luxe sensibility that’s become his trademark. A fresh seasons in deference to the diffi cult economy, were rest- Lynx, kidskin, fox, broadtail and chinchilla were used interpretation of the all-important vest came in a sexy less. “Show me something so fabulous I have to have it,” generously in bold silhouettes and unique combinations black knitted fox halter vest. fashion-loving women and men told them, indicating for stunning eë ect. Standouts included a coat and jack- they were ready to shop if the designers gave them good et made with natural lynx belly, Russian Barguzine sa- OSCAR DE LA RENTA reason. Although it’s subjective and even elusive, great ble and alligator, a jaunty kidskin skirt with a tailored design requires a combination of creativity, innovation, cashmere jacket and a wheat clogue ball skirt with a The lavish elegance of Oscar de la Renta’s designs are craftsmanship and, perhaps, the ability to anticipate chic kidskin, fox and sheared mink jacket that proved unparalleled and this season’s oë erings were no excep- the customer’s desires before she’s aware of them her- that fur is not just for outerwear. tion. From his opening look — a black fl oral chinta- self. Designers turned to fur…. mani patchwork embroidered Ottoman jacquard coat YIGAL AZROUËL and Ottoman jacquard red fox-brimmed Louz — there J. MENDEL was no question the audience was in for an exceptional The masculine-feminine theme that ran throughout experience. The same ornate patchwork pattern ap- For Fall 2011, designer Gilles Mendel presented a col- the shows found fresh interpretation in the designs of peared on a gold bouillon jacket worn with a volumi- lection that defi ned easy luxury with laid-back sepa- Yigal Azrouël. He opened with a plaid-embossed nous red fox skirt and a cashgora and red fox hood. rates and dresses and casual, but stunning furs. A series shearling “grandad” coat shown with tux shirt and tie The designer took on the long vest twice — an under- of intarsia coats mixing mink and fox were rich in tex- under a curry-colored sweater and wool boy pants. statedly chic sable vest in hunter and a feathered red ture and bold in design. A mink strip mounted jacket The long, coat-like vest with fur collar was interpreted fox hooded vest. Clearly, fur unleashed the full force of was perfectly elegant and wonderfully cozy. Quilting here in double-breasted gray-check wool with a his creativity. The look of silver fox was recreated on brought a fresh edge to the classic lines of a forest green shearling collar. A jet cross mink short coat with peb- silk faille in a glossy outerwear coat that was trimmed broadtail coat while lending a soft, fl irty touch to a per- ble-leathered sleeves, trim and belt was stylish and in real silver fox — nearly demanding a double-take. fectly tailored pink broadtail jacket. Marking the debut sexy. An elegant blue iris mink coat with leather trim And the sweeping ivory shearling embroidered with a of the J. Mendel Footwear collection, models paraded popped against a bright pink tux bib blouse. Rounding graphic Moroccan Beni design in black and worn over down the runway in stunning broadtail boots that are out the selection was a jet mink sweatshirt with leath- a silver lamé mousseline and pearl-embroidered chif- sure to make Mendel’s move into footwear eë ortless. It’s er trim that’s sure to be a favorite with the chic down- fon gown with tulle skirt was out of this world. the design subtleties and attention to detail that have town set. earned Mendel a loyal following, and his furs for Fall ORIGIN ASSURED 2011 did not disappoint. MICHAEL KORS The OA label demonstrates the fur industry’s commit- DENNIS BASSO Celebrating 30 years in fashion, Michael Kors pulled ment to sustainable and responsible practices by pro- out all the stops for his Fall 2011 runway presentation viding assurance that the fur in a garment or accessory In his show notes, Dennis Basso revealed that fall and with an inspiring line of fl awless looks that played luxe that bears the OA™ symbol originates from a country winter are his favorite seasons to design for — not a big tailoring against languid draping in monochromatic where national or local regulations governing fur pro- surprise since, fi rst and foremost, his name is associat- colors – a fashion point-of-view sure to extend his reign duction are in force. ed with luxury furs. For Fall 2011, he once again proved as the “King” of American fashion. Fur has been an im- Only fur from approved species, sourced from approved his artistic mastery of fur, delivering a sumptuous col- portant part of Kors’ collections for several years, but countries and sold through participating lection sure to turn dressing for bitter cold weather into this season it was more prevalent than ever, underscor- auction houses is entitled to carry the OA™ a delicious pleasure. The focus was on texture with ing the fabrication’s critical role in the American luxury label. For more information on the OA™ hand knits and tissue-weight cashmeres for body-hug- market. Opulent and lightweight knitted fox in short label, visit www.orignassured.com

THE NATURAL, RESPONSIBLE CHOICE

Fur Information Council of America 8424 A Santa Monica Blvd., Suite 860 West Hollywood, California 90069 323.782.1700 www.fur.org 4 WWD TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 22, 2011 WWD.COM FASHION Ten Things to Love About the New York Season ON TO MILAN! The intimate fete at that length and intensity of great bastion of decadent Looks from Oscar de la Renta the full season leave little decorum, Bemelmans Bar. and Altuzarra (below). time to digest the New It could not have made for York collections, even for a lovelier evening, even those who didn’t rush off if those who arrived from to London (myself among Proenza Schouler’s fabulous them). So much happens show only got to hear about in New York, but then the Judy Collins singing “Over ship moves — London, the Rainbow,” rather than Milan, Paris, boom, boom, her actual performance boom — so that at the other itself. When a contingent end, with a few exceptions, from WWD arrived, Kors New York can seem like referenced the long-ago a big, distant blur. That photo of him with two would be a shame, as Bridget Foley ’s models that had graced his with nine days of shows, invitations and the cover 12 hours a day, plenty of Diary wrap of that day’s paper. In fabulous things emerged. the shot, Kors looks utterly boyish with a mass of golden 1. CELEBRITY REHAB curls. Angelic, yes, but a friend of his If designers didn’t exactly swear off the noted another similarity: “He told me celebrity addiction that has so often I could have replaced Christopher exploded out of control, they did at least Atkins in ‘Blue Lagoon.’” cut way, way back. It made for a nice break from the typical mayhem during 5. NORMA, SHEARER which industry front-row guests spend Ever the iconoclast, Norma a good chunk of preshow time trying to Kamali decided to show in avoid face-to-rear-end contact with the a whole new way for fall: paparazzi brigade. Those celebs who in her store, on eight-foot did put in appearances last week acted foam board cutouts of not like gotta-make-an-entrance divas models Lais Ribeiro but polite guests who arrived promptly and Darla Baker. Kamali and took to their seats sans fanfare. This called it her “big-girl was an especially happy development in installation.” Yet while the case of the aqua-sneakered Amar’e Kamali is always interested Stoudemire, who made for an exciting new in forward motion, presence at Tommy Hilfi ger, capturing the including an aggressive fashion-crowd fascination far more acutely use of social media, than did the usual-suspect types. sometimes a leap forward involves a step back. THOMAS IANNACCONE 2. PARTNERS IN OPULENCE Thus, she personally Oscar de la Renta and Marc Jacobs seldom made all of her patterns get discussed in one breath. Yet both are this season. “I may not do devoted nonminimalists at heart, and for fall it again,” Kamali said. both expressed that tendency via unbridled “But with all of the BY DE LA RENTA adornment, beginning with lavish, highly other stuff that goes developed fabrics. De la Renta worked on in fashion today, a Silk Road inspiration for a gorgeous it’s important to stay collection in which nearly everything was aware of the craft intensely printed, embroidered, brocaded of the business.” or otherwise embellished. De la Renta even MITRA; OSCAR ROBERT made the humble madras and patchwork 6. DELIGHTFULLY WRONG motifs exotic and rich. Inspired primarily by Sometimes it’s wonderful his own archives, Jacobs went all-out dotty to be proven wrong. Victoria in a collection of arch, couturelike shapes, Beckham and The Row’s Mary-

almost all covered with some rendition of Kate and Ashley Olsen continue PHOTO BY ALTUZARRA spots. The clothes looked very expensive to stick it to their early skeptics, — when do they not? — but not in a grand sartorially speaking, with “Days of Heaven” for a richly 10. LET’S VENT manner. Rather, the highly demonstrative terrifi c collections. This season, realized ode to the heartland that For some reason, show going incites fabrics took a turn toward the technological. they scored big again, Beckham was as romantic as it was chic. the concentrated whine. Complaining One example: the large fi lm discs fused onto by infusing a newfound ease to is part of the communal experience molded plastic and worked into curvy skirts. her dresses and the addition of 8. VAGABOND RALPH and who doesn’t need and enjoy a good impressive coats; the Olsens, with While so many designers vent now and then? Among the favorite 3. WEATHER CHASERS a darkish, slyly decadent mood looked to homegrown motifs topics: the constant uptown-downtown Who says designers work holed up in that allowed them to expand their for inspirations, the man whose treks, a genuine stress-inducer as ivory towers? This season, they worked concept of wardrobe pieces. Most personal lexicon abounds with people fear missing a show. Other holed up in their New York studios, impressive is that the three women such references, and who showed matters, however, are just annoying. which meant braving the relentless cold have chosen to grow their businesses a fabulous ode to the Southwest Top of my list: Those who, when exiting and snow just like everyone else. The — and their professional profi les — for spring (the 72nd Street windows a show, become oblivious to all stimuli result was outerwear heaven, populated slowly, keeping the focus fi rmly on look divine), surprised with a trip East. save for the apparently emergency by terrifi c, distinctive pieces. Tommy the merch rather than on themselves. Ralph Lauren traveled to Shanghai for an texts and e-mails that have accrued Hilfi ger, for example, showed printed elegant collection fi lled with real clothes during the last 14 or so minutes, which shearlings, and for Richard Chai — Love, 7. THE AMERICAN WAY wrapped in an air of mystery. is about the average length of a show. Chai offered takes on men’s looks, as did The line “a great year for American How about getting out of the way Peter Som, his with a bit of au sauvage. sportswear” can be code for borrrrr-ing. 9. MANIFEST DESTINY fi rst and then checking the phone? Anchoring the parka brigade: Vera Wang, Not so this time around, as designers Many of New York’s younger designers And speaking of out of the way, how Thakoon Panichgul and Joseph Altuzarra. found ways to push the basics to continue to make their mark, not only with about the women who think it’s fi ne to Asked whether the winter infl uenced his distinctive effect. They found inspiration strong collections, but by carefully charting block a sink in the portable facilities lineup, Altuzarra noted that it “was huge.” in everything from the classics, which they their growth. The latest to take the vertical at Lincoln Center to touch up their Still, as he wanted to keep everything destabilized smartly (Jason Wu, Adam retail plunge: Alexander Wang, who last makeup? I cannot imagine breaking out sexy, he put the ample parkas over fi lmy Lippes), to grunge (Chai, Altuzarra) to week opened his 4,500-square-foot shop at the mascara wand in an unpleasantly dresses. Mission accomplished. extreme sportswear (Alexander Wang) to a 103 Grand Street, once home to the store of fragranced Porta-Potty, but that may chic lady’s more casual side (Lyn Devon). no less a deity than Yohji Yamamoto. “This is be my quirk. More importantly, I can’t 4. CARLYLE KORS Ye t not all Americana references were a place where we can do really special pieces go take my seat (show seat, not toilet To mark 30 years in business, Michael about sportswear. Exhibit A: Rodarte’s that stores might not want to take the risk seat) until I wash my hands, and you’re Kors chose to celebrate with a relatively Kate and Laura Mulleavy drew from on,” Wang said. “We can test-drive here.” blocking the way. Move! WWD TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 22, 2011 5 WWD.COM

Sang A Pamela Love

Anya Hindmarch Alejandro Ingelmo

Fashion Week Fenton Side Shows Once relegated to a showroom shelf, accessories came to life for fall in a myriad of elaborate presentations. Handbags at Sang A became art in a creative gallery Jerome installation; elaborate jewelry was delivered on dressed- Rousseau up ballet dancers at Erickson Beamon, while a shaded string orchestra looked cool at Illesteva. Still, some designers let the accoutrements speak for themselves, turning out quite a few stunners for the House of Waris new season.

Kara Illesteva Yestadt Ross Millinery MITRA

Edmundo Castillo AND ROBERT IANNACCONE, TODD MATARAZZO

Dannijo Erickson Beamon ERICKSEN, THOMAS KYLE CELESTE,JIMI GEORGE CHINSEE, STEVE EICHNER, AQUINO, JOHN ANTONOV, PASHA

BY Lizzie Fortunato PHOTOS 6 WWD tuesday, february 22, 2011 WWD.COM denim memo pad Levi’s, H&M Take on Sandblasting By KRisti ellis retailers last month to discuss ONE FOR ALL: Calvin Klein Inc., which is turning ck one into a full lifestyle brand, has conceived a best practices and concerns about global advertising campaign for spring that encompasses TV, print, the Internet and social media — leVi stRauss & co. and hennes the impact of sandblasting on the all things that concern ck one’s targeted customer. & Mauritz have agreed to collabo- health of workers. itschert said the CKI declined to disclose the cost of the campaign, but said it is the largest digital initiative in its rate with the international textile itglwF plans to take the manifes- history. Directed by Steven Meisel, who did the original ck one fragrance campaign with Kate Moss garment & leather workers’ to — a voluntary agreement — and and a gaggle of other Nineties faces, the new black-and-white ads are an evolution in the spirit of the Federation to draft a manifesto ask other major denim brands to current generation, centered around the new ckone.com site. banning the use of sandblasting in sign it at a second roundtable being The ads feature more than 30 models inside a “ck one” box, dancing, laughing, arguing and, denim, in the hopes of convincing planned in the next 30 to 45 days. sometimes provocatively, posing in front of the filming camera in blink-and-you’ll-miss-it cuts. The other brands to eliminate it, the “what we have done is try to get commercials play into how today’s youth communicate — from filming themselves and posting global union federation said Friday. main brands around the world to the videos on Youtube.com to iChat, Facebook and Twitter — and features the likes of Abbey Lee levi’s and h&M said last year the table to start a discussion with Kershaw, Alice Dellal, Pixie Geldof, Fei Fei Sun, Ruby Aldridge, Sky Ferreira and Calvin Klein face Lara that they were eliminating sand- them [about the health risks associ- Stone. “It’s a great evolution blasted products from their lines ated with the sandblasting process] of the original campaign,” CKI due to health concerns for work- and see if they would agree to sign president and chief executive ers who are involved in the process a voluntary agreement banning officer Tom Murry said. “It’s what around the world. sandblasting,” said itschert. “at the original campaign and the “sandblasting is a serious indus- the first meeting, a vast majority DNA of ck one stood for, but try concern, and even though we at agreed, but some others were not at made relevant and current.” levi strauss & co. are confident in that stage yet.” CRK Advertising and our practices, we decided that the itschert said 40 garment fac- consulting creative director best way we can help ensure no tory workers involved in the Fabien Baron conceived the worker in any garment factory faces denim sandblasting process died ad. There are four different the threat associated with exposure in turkey from 2005 to 2009, which iterations — for Jeans, to crystalline silica is to move to brought the issue to the forefront Underwear, Fragrance and one end sandblasting industrywide,” for the global union federation. for all categories — with more said a levi’s spokeswoman. “we another 7,000 workers were ex- than 60 differently edited will continue to focus on educat- posed and could subsequently de- variations, some of which ing suppliers and other companies velop the lung disease, according specifically target Asia. A key about why they should join us in to itschert, noting that the turkish purpose is to drive traffic to this ban.” government banned the use of ckone.com, which offers profiles patrick itschert, general secre- sandblasting in 2009. of the cast and background tary of itglwF, said in an inter- the itglwF hopes to reach content, and lets visitors upload A still from the ck one campaign. view Friday that the two brands out to governments in other coun- their own ck one video versions. would be participating in a con- tries that produce denim, including The site, available in 11 languages, will also have a global store, and custom mobile apps available ference call later that night to china, pakistan and Bangladesh, for the iPhone, Android and Symbian. discuss crafting a “manifesto” and others in asia, central america A teaser will launch this Wednesday through an app at ckone.com, and the full campaign will be banning the use of sandblasting, and the Mediterranean region. unveiled March 1. The accompanying print campaign, for April books, features stills of the videos. which he said has been known to “once the ban is in place in In addition to print media, the campaign will be placed on LED billboards at Houston and Lafayette cause a fatal lung disease known one country, they just to move to streets in New York and Sunset Boulevard in Los Angeles, as well as Subway Urban Panels, this week as silicosis in workers making the other ones,” he said. “we want to and elsewhere around the world from March 1. — Marc Karimzadeh sandblasted products. go to countries where jeans are the itglwF convened a round- produced and tell them that sand- table with 15 major brands and blasting kills.” THE OTHER SHOE DROPS: Jack Griffin was hit with a one-two punch on Thursday. Not only did the chief executive officer of Time Inc. find out he was fired after only five months on the job, but he was also forced to relinquish his relatively new role as chairman of the MPA — The Association of Magazine Media. “To be a member of the MPA Board of Directors, one must be a senior executive New Logo, Slogan for Penney’s who holds the primary responsibility for the magazine operations of an MPA-member company,” said a spokesperson on Friday. “We can speak more definitively about a replacement for Jack Griffin By DaViD Moin saatchi, during the show that soon.” — Amy Wicks promote the retailer’s exclusive J.c. penney will an unveil a re- stable of brands. there are sepa- designed logo and a new slogan in rate ads for Mng by Mango, liz its spring campaign launching dur- claiborne and cindy crawford ing the academy awards on sunday. style. the Mango ad, in an urban beauty beat the logo is still in red and white setting with a model in the mid- but with a more modern, graphic dle of traffic whisking by in a look. Jcpenney is spelled out in blur, announces: “Bold, trend- lower case, the first three letters setting. european fast fashion Minx Teams With Manicurists in white and contained in a red straight from the runway, right to box; the rest of the lettering in red you.” the claiborne ad depicts By Rachel BRown against a white backdrop. logo re- claiborne designers at work in designs can be tricky. gap last year an urban showroom, and says Minx is spotlighting celebrity manicurists by collaborating with them. redesigned its logo, but scrapped they’re making “the classics cur- the oceanside, calif.-based company behind fashionable nail cov- it after a public outcry and quickly rent.” there are also two trend erings introduced a collection last month with manicurist lisa logan, restored the old version. ads showing a variety of private whose clients include Beyoncé, Mary J. Blige and Queen latifah, and however, there’s always excite- labels: one for women’s that gets will this week unveil a collection with Marian newman, whose mani- ment surrounding the academy aired twice during the oscars, cures have graced the runway shows of givenchy, Vivienne westwood, awards, where and one for men’s Valentino and more. collections with Kimmie Kyees, a manicurist of penney’s is the wear. another choice for Katy perry and Rihanna, and naja Rickette, who did lady sole retail spon- ad promotes gaga’s nails in the “love game” and “paparazzi” videos, are set to launch sor. the retailer penney’s people in the spring. has been run- stylewatch pro- “we work a lot with the celebrity manicurists, and it is kind of our way to ning ads during gram where give something back,” said Minx co-owner Dawn lynch-goodwin. “it is allow- the event for 10 items that are Minx designs J.C. Penney’s new logo. ing the artist in them to come out. we wanted to showcase them and give them by Lisa Logan. years. “this is hot or important an opportunity to take their designs to other manicurists.” the super Bowl for women,” said for the wardrobe are identified by there are around eight styles in each of the first two collaborations to hit the market, liz sweney, penney’s co-chief mer- peoplestylewatch magazine. also, which are expected to cost $5 to $10 above customary Minx manicures that are regularly $35 chant. “it’s a live event. the view- the Mng by Mango and cindy to $55 at nail salons. lynch-goodwin described newman’s assortment as ranging from clas- ership is huge, 42 million, and it’s crawford spots will run during the sic to highly design-oriented, with styles featuring chrome, nude, graduated color and vari- primarily women. it’s this fabulous red-carpet preshow on aBc. ous shape illusions. she said logan’s collection is more colorful and playful, with geometric fashion platform and we expect the new slogan, “we make it af- imagery a prominent theme. the viewership to be up this year,” fordable. you make it yours,” will lynch-goodwin and Janice Jordan, who founded Minx together in 2007, projected the particularly with younger people run through May and builds on celebrity manicurist collections would generate between 2 percent and 5 percent of Minx’s considering the hosts are anne penney’s ongoing tag line, “new annual sales. the company has registered less than $10 million in yearly annual wholesale hathaway and James Franco. look. new day. who knew!” sales. “this is a first trial. we are hoping they do well,” said lynch-goodwin. “they’re cool, and that’s impor- the commercials underscore the the early reads on the lisa logan collection are strong, according to Jordan. at the tant for us. we want to get to 25- to rapid rollout this year of penney’s international salon and spa expo that ran in long Beach, calif., from Jan. 29 to 31, Minx 35-year-olds,” sweney said. that’s merchandise exclusives including premiered the lisa logan collection, and Jordan declared manicurists flipped for it. “we to give a better balance to penney’s Mng by Mango from 77 stores cur- sold out of some of her [products,]” she said. business, which has traditionally rently to 500 by fall; sephora from logan reported she gets calls daily from people wanting to emulate her past Minx mani- done best with teens and middle 231 doors currently to 307 by the cures — and she hopes the collaboration will help the masses be able to do that. “it brought aged and older women. end of this year, and call it spring nails back to life,” she said of Minx. “now, i feel that nails are starting to climb that fashion penney’s will run seven 30-sec- shoe shops from three doors at ladder and get up there with makeup and hair.” ond spots, created by saatchi & present to 500 this fall. WWD tuesday, february 22, 2011 7 WWD.COM

Ellen Barkin with eye L’Wren Scott. Give Him Shelter L’Wren Scott sported the most desirable accessory in the room at a Thursday night dinner to celebrate her fall collection at The Mark Hotel: her Rolling Stones front man beau, Mick Jagger. “I’m so sorry,” an uninvited restaurant-goer interrupted, “but Mr. Jagger, my mother’s over here, and she’s 70, and it’s her anniversary, and she would just DIE to meet you.” The rock icon acquiesced, with a light smile. “We’re not going too far, are we?” he asked aloud, before shooting an affectionate glance at Scott, who was visibly none too amused. “I’m not sure that woman’s father is going to love his wife ogling Mick Jagger on their anniversary,” one dinner guest said with a giggle. Elsewhere, Christina Hendricks and Ellen Barkin chatted in a corner, hiding in plain sight from the rest of the restaurant though both were eager to enthuse over Scott’s designs. Mick Jagger “She’s a genius at making just sexy, great dresses,” Barkin explained. Hendricks has famously complained about the lack of designer offerings cut for her figure, but bore no such ill- will for Scott: “Love her, love this,” the “Mad Men” actress said with a laugh, gesturing at her white scoop-necked cocktail number, which featured a flower design.Geoffrey Arend, Hendricks’ husband, was also at the party, speaking with artist Doug Aitken and at one point accidentally Christina toppling a tray of hors d’oeuvres. Hendricks in Ryan McGinley arrived late with Jen Brill in tow. The two L’Wren Scott. feigned nonchalance but made a bee-line for Jagger, listening at attention with friend Dan Colen before pulling Ryan McGinley the Rolling Stone into photographs. with Jen Brill. “I’m just so happy everyone’s here,” a smiling Scott said, as she surveyed her guests. “It’s really lovely.” Rachel Feinstein entered in a whirlwind, explaining that her absence from friend Marc Jacobs’ show earlier in the week was due to her young son’s sledding accident. “Here now,” she said with a smile. “Excited to be.” With most of the New York snow melted and most of the fashion week crowd off to London, an air of ease took hold at The Mark. Following cocktail hour, guests settled into their seats. Scott’s table was parallel to Jagger’s, and had been arranged so the pair could stay in each other’s eyeline throughout the evening. Waitstaff at the restaurant were informed not to allow any more fan-based interruptions and protected the perimeter. The rock star winked at his model/designer love as the meal was served and raised a glass in her direction.

photos by steve eichner steve by photos — Alessandra Codinha

WWD.COM/CLASSIFIEDS

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Check Mates New city, new collections, new star-studded front rows. Such was the scene at London Fashion Week, where Rachel Bilson and Kate Bosworth chummed it up at Monday’s Burberry Prorsum show. For more London scoop, see pages 2 to 5.

PHOTO BY TIM JENKINS 2 WWDSTYLE TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 22, 2011 the collections

collections

LONDON 2011 Next Stop: London fall All eyes have turned to the British runways, which are full of both ladylike and men’s wear-inspired looks, not to mention the season’s requisite outerwear.

Burberry Paul Smith Matthew Christopher Prorsum Williamson Kane

Erdem

Burberry Prorsum: The gently curved a Sherlock Holmes feel — and a touch of luxe jackets came with fl irty peplums and dresses had sculptures of Barbara Hepworth and the thanks to fur on the shoulders and collars. dropped waists with curving, tuliplike skirts and neatness and rigor of early Sixties dressing A few coats were inspired by the Shrimp ribbon ties on the back. fueled Christopher Bailey’s imagination. herself, including the opening orange number “I was thinking of Jean Shrimpton, coat with epaulets but other ones — in shades of Erdem: The darkly romantic collection was inspired dressing, and the idea of matching your Wedgwood blue, teal or olive — had more of by “a slightly unhinged artist’s wife,” said Erdem bag to your coat,” said Burberry Prorsum’s a military feel with leather duffl e fastenings Moralioglu. “I’d seen the movie ‘Pollock’ and was chief creative offi cer. In a show that was lashed across the front. thinking about paint splatters and 1950s prints left out live-streamed for the fi rst time to screens in There were plenty of new proportions, in the rain. And while last season I was preoccupied London’s Piccadilly Circus, Bailey showed including funnel-neck lumberjack checked, or with a girl, I’m now thinking about a woman.” outerwear in many colors, textures and shapes, quilted cape styles with fl aring kimono sleeves. Moralioglu’s clothes were rich with prints that introducing volume with egglike silhouettes, Mink, too, played a starring role in the form of ranged from the smudgy and watery to the bright and lantern sleeves and bubble backs. He also belted drop-waists with patent leather collars, vibrant. Velvet dresses — long and short — had plunging unveiled a skinny trouser that came with and or more sculpted, rounded ones with cashmere backs, and blots of color that exploded like fi reworks without a fl ared bottom. cable-knit sleeves or panels. While some of the against a black sky. Silk day dresses, meanwhile, were As usual, Bailey riffed on the brand’s silhouettes were unwieldy, and at times too retro, awash in watery pastels resembling Claude Monet’s signature trench: Some were fashioned from on the whole the collection had a sensual — and Giverny on a rainy day. The garden theme wove its white silk jacquard made to look and feel like commercial — slant. And while outerwear was way onto skirts painted with fl owers and dresses hand- aran knits, while others came in tweed and had the focus, there was news on other fronts: military embroidered with blossoms by Jenny King, the mixed- WWDSTYLEWWD STYLE XXXXXXXXX,WWD TUESDAY, XXXXXXX, XXXXXXXX FEBRUARY XXXXX XX, 22, 20112011 00003 FOR FULL COVERAGE OF LONDON FASHION WEEK, SEE WWD.com/ FASHION-SHOWS-REVIEWS.

media textile designer who regularly the day she announced her engagement, works with the label. Textures played a Brazilian-born Daniella Helayel is big role in this collection, too, with slim celebrating her past success — and moving bouclé dresses in cobalt blue overlaid on. Her 10th-anniversary collection was with black lace, or another fabric made to fi lled with all the signatures her fans love, look like a toddler’s scribbles. from the teal pheasant print that Madonna famously wore on “The Oprah Winfrey Paul Smith: A powerhouse in men’s wear, Show” to fi gure-fl attering jersey wrap Sir Paul Smith understands the allure dresses. But Helayel looked at them all of masculine clothes on women, too. His with a fresh eye — magnifying and breaking pack of brainy beauties looked as if they up that pheasant print for a long, liquid just strolled out of a very chic library: jersey gown, and transforming a double- glasses perched on their noses; beefy, helix pattern into a jacquard weave vintage-look cardigans shrugged on their for a skater dress. The result was shoulders; feet shod in tasseled loafers or fun and fl irty yet decidedly grown- laceless brogues. While such a studious up clothes, a message Helayel image could be boring, and even unsexy, drove home by hiring mature Smith kept it interesting with shots of models Yasmin Le Bon and vivid color, plush fabrics and splashes Andrea Dellal to walk the runway. of fl oral embroidery. Almost every look was shown with pants, from rolled-up Clements Ribeiro: Suzanne boyfriend corduroys to pleated pin-striped Clements and Inacio trousers. Blazers and knit waistcoats were Ribeiro took a Victorian cut small and hugged the waist. Amidst turn with a series a sea of cocktail dresses on London of black and gray runways, these nonchalant clothes were silhouettes adorned with as reassuring as a favorite book. one of the era’s most popular gemstones: Matthew Williamson: Inspired by the jet. Beads, fringes and avant-garde Russian artist Francisco embellishments inspired Infante-Arana, known for his large by Moorish culture mirror sculptures set against snowy worked their way onto landscapes, forests and rocky terrain, tunics, cocoonlike coats Matthew Williamson showed a mix of and long black dresses. matte and shiny, including silhouettes As for the prints, with multiple textures and dimensions. some were inspired Nubby miniskirts resembling scraps by Victorian damask of tapestry were paired with chubby and lace, and others Mongolian lamb vests, while chevron- by felines such as striped leather jackets were softened ocelot and lynx. Bold with rabbit fur collars. For evening, punches of color Jonathan Issa midnight blue sequined dresses were came in the form Saunders London trimmed with ostrich feathers while one of Yves Klein blue silk chiffon version was scattered with cardigans with black frogging, sequins. Williamson’s pièce de résistance as well as a raspberry twinset Clements was a parka lined in Mongolian lamb and with evil-eye motifs. The only Ribeiro covered in more sequins. “That coat does tricky elements in this elegant everything for you,” Williamson said collection were the new, shin- before the show. “It keeps you warm and skimming hemlines which you get to be the belle of the ball.” might require a beanpole fi gure.

Christopher Kane: The designer took Mulberry: Creative director simple silhouettes and subtly subverted Emma Hill said she wanted to them with futuristic details. Knee- design a “fabulously English” length dresses in heavy black wool were collection equally at home on accented with strips of wavy plastic fi lled city streets or the countryside. with colored gels — inspired by the toxic Feminine and focused, her blue-green and pinkish orange liquid in Mulberry lineup featured Sixties- lava lamps. The plastic cropped up as inspired suits with swingy, A-line pockets or shoulder straps, resembling skirts and cropped jackets in tweed, strips of seaweed, or was coagulated to chunky corduroy or quilted leather. form tops paired with black wool pencil On a more rural note, fi nches and skirts. Some of the dresses were given other feathery creatures appeared a seductive edge, with panels of sheer on silk dresses with pussy-bow chiffon on the bodice or across the collars, while military patch shoulders. The collection exemplifi ed pockets and hunting details worked Kane’s ability to take elements that their way onto coats and trenches. border on bad taste and craft them into Hill also transferred some of the hardware chic, modern designs with an edge. from the Mulberry accessories onto the clothes, with the buckle from the Tilly bag Jonathan Saunders: This coolly polished popping up on belts and coats. Meanwhile, collection telegraphed a grown-up fox-shaped clasps and rivets crept onto the approach to fashion. Silhouettes were handbags toted in the show. long and lean, such as high-waist pencil skirts and belted tailored jackets, but done Vivienne Westwood Red Label: Vivienne in energetic color blocks of maroon, sky Westwood’s inspirations ranged from blue and tomato red. Jonathan Saunders London’s Portobello Road market to also continued to evolve his signature “Alice in Wonderland” to the very idea of prints, which this time ranged from bold “Britishness.” To be sure, the collection geometrics to tropical birds of paradise. was upbeat and packed with Westwood One zigzag print, done in red, white and signatures, such as tartan and plaid blue, adorned a knee-length day dress, mini-kilts and trouser suits and men’s while a shift came in a bold red and blue tailoring staples — like pinstripes for wallpaper pattern. The colors segued a one-piece jumpsuit. There were also seamlessly into softer versions for evening, plenty of draped and tailored bustier as in an ankle-length dress made up of gowns, including one stunner that GIOVANNI layers of pleated chiffon, in graduated seemed as if it had been sprayed with shades of maroon, pink and orange. gold leaf. Adding to the off-the-wall Vivienne vibe were her accessories, such as GIANNONI Westwood BY Issa London: After rocketing to fame thanks huge ermine-trimmed crowns, oversize Mulberry Red Label to Kate Middleton’s choice of an Issa dress bowler hats and even hair curlers. PHOTOS 4 WWDSTYLE TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 22, 2011 the collections

Pringle of Scotland Temperley London Richard Nicoll Nicole Farhi

collections

2011 LONDONfall

Pringle of Scotland: A treasure trove of designed atrium of the British Museum, stand-up collars fl uttering around the Berardi’s collection with pieces like knits, furs and tweed tailoring from was rich and dramatic. There were neck, while square trains on tunics car coats in snug white lamb’s wool the attic of a very chic granny was skinny strapless gowns with hemline and dresses drifted behind the models. and a white opera coat embellished creative director Clare Waight Keller’s fl ourishes fi t for fl amenco dancers There were also organza T-shirts with with panels of glass beads at the hem, springboard at Pringle of Scotland. That and black evening suits with narrow raglan sleeves, and sweatshirts and was heightened by glamour. Berardi’s made for a collection fi lled with nubby trousers and short, matadorlike jackets. tops in shiny, midnight blue fabrics. sharp tailoring was also evident trousers, dresses with knitted sleeves, The lineup ended on an ethereal note The clothes seemed fi t for grand in looks such as a gunmetal silk and luxuriant raccoon coats with with diaphanous gowns sprinkled occasions, but done in a light, free and shantung dress cut close to the body contrasting bits of fur inlaid to resemble with diamanté sparkles and beading. relaxed way. and a skinny navy silk trouser suit, feathers. Among the stars was a chunky And because the Temperley girl will the sleeves of the jacket composed knit poncho with a fur hood, and gray never abandon her bohemian side, Nicole Farhi: The designer played with of delicate lace. Evening looks were Prince of Wales trousers shot through there were also reminders of carefree volume and masculine-inspired even more intricate, exemplifi ed by a with a bright blue stripe. At their best, countryside living with a cream silhouettes in this minimalist collection, shimmering, midnight blue silk gown these pieces looked rich and cozy, but cashmere hooded poncho. turning out black jackets with kimono with hundreds of tiny black beads the drab colors and shaggy textures sleeves, voluminous white shirts and sewn down the sleeves. muddied some of the fi ne silhouettes. Richard Nicoll: A butterfl y shape on the dresses with capelike backs. Some invitation telegraphed the theme of proportions worked, while others Topshop Unique: In one of their strongest Temperley London: Alice Temperley has Richard Nicoll’s latest collection. overwhelmed her models. But Nicole collections yet, the in-house designers been upgrading her signature label to Notwithstanding the Latin names of Farhi’s real stars were the more fi tted for Topshop’s runway show riffed on focus on evening and occasion wear, various species he had embroidered and feminine looks, including a short the joyous mood of America’s postwar channeling her daywear designs into onto silk T-shirts, the designer alighted black calfskin jacket and a pleated black boom and Hollywood’s golden age. the Alice by Temperley diffusion on something more subtle and original: evening dress with a plunging V-back. They used faux fur for chubbies — collection, which launched 18 months merging evening clothes with the ease some with Dalmatian spots — while ago. So it was no surprise that her and vitality of activewear. Parkas and Antonio Berardi: Thanks to a wealth of marabou adorned the sleeves of velvet show, in the vast Norman Foster- zipped blousons in couture fabrics had rich textures and details, Antonio dresses and show-stopping coats. A WWDSTYLEWWD STYLE xxxxxxxxx,WW D tuesday, XXXXXXX, xxxxxxxx february XXXXX XX,xx, 22, 20112011 00005

For Full coverage oF london Fashion Week, see WWD.com/ fAshion-shoWs-revieWs. Jaeger J.W. London Anderson Fashion scoops

HEAVY METAL: “Everybody is asking me if it hurts to sit down with the studs, but it doesn’t at all, it’s just very heavy,” Kate Bosworth said, referring to her Burberry pencil skirt pavéd with spikes and studs. Bosworth, part of a front-row lineup that included Rachel Bilson, Alexa Chung, Poppy Delevigne and Stella Tennant, said she’s been busy producing “Lost Girls Alexa Chung and Love Hotels,” based on the novel by Catherine Hanrahan. Alison Douglas Booth confirmed that he’s been Mosshart renewed as the face of the Burberry Sport fragrance campaign. He also recently finished filming “LOL” with Demi Moore and Miley Cyrus. “It’s a coming-of-age film about teenagers and their relationships with their parents,” he explained. Chloe Green, the daughter of Topshop tycoon Sir Philip Green, divulged that she’s working on her own women’s wear collection which she’s hoping to launch in November. Poppy “I haven’t named it yet. Hmmm. Maybe Delevigne I should call it Project One?” The Kills’ Alison Mosshart, meanwhile, was not at any loss for names. “I just finished working on my new record at 5 this morning so I’ve been sleeping most of the day,” she said. Antonio “It comes out April 4, and it’s called ‘Blood Pressures.’ I should really be celebrating Berardi tonight — if I’m up to it!”

Topshop Peter Pilotto IN THE WINGS: Christophe Decarnin has a new wing woman at Balmain. Melanie Unique Ward, best known for her long creative collaboration with Helmut Lang, is in Paris working with Decarnin ahead of Balmain’s show on March 3. Previously, the designer collaborated with Paris Vogue’s Emmanuelle Alt, who is now devoted exclusively to the magazine as its new editor in chief.

HARVEST TIME: Tilda Swinton, who took in the Pringle show, confirmed that she will appear in the brand’s fall 2011 campaign — and an intense new movie. She is finishing up “We Need to Talk about Kevin,” based on Lionel Shriver’s acclaimed, epistolary novel. She plays the mother of a murderous teenager, and said the movie should be wrapped in time for the Cannes Film Festival. “I’ve had quite a harvest, with ‘I Am Love’ and ‘Julia,’ both of which took a long time to make, so I’m taking a break,” said Swinton. Over the summer, she’ll begin filming “Moon Rise Kingdom,” a Wes Anderson film that will also star Bruce Willis, Edward Norton and Bill Murray. As for the upcoming Pringle spots, Swinton said a location hasn’t been chosen yet. Past campaigns have been shot near her home of Nairn, in the Scottish Highlands. “Wherever it is, it will be very Scottish,” she assured.

HITTING THE PAWS BUTTON: The front row at Mulberry’s first show on Sunday may have been stacked with celebrities, including Kirsten Dunst, Gemma Arterton, Rebecca Hall and Rosamund Pike. But they were quickly forgotten when the second front-row crew marched in for show number two, and

NNI began posing for the cameras dressed in Mulberry clothing. va Nancy, Edie, Butters and Guinness were among the canine guests. Guinness, a Burmese mountain dog, even had his own Mulberry shoulder bag. “We have designated seating NNONI GIO a sections: Key buyers, U.S. editors, kids and dogs. It’s very GI

BY English,” explained Mulberry creative director Emma Hill.

PHOTOS Kirsten ROYAL RSVP: David and Victoria Beckham, Holly Branson, Dunst and British Prime Minister David Cameron and his wife, cityscape motif was splashed across — were given a punkish edge with tight Clémence Samantha, are said to be among the 1,900 guests invited a smart devoré velvet shirt dress and mohair sweaters, some with contrasting Poésy to Westminster Abbey for the royal nuptials. According to a a silk blouse, while gangster-inspired brocade panels. Anderson also played statement from Clarence House, 1,000 of those invited to pinstripes toughened up pencil skirts with silk paisley and Harris tweeds in the church are close friends and family. President Barack

Obama and Michelle Obama, Nicolas Sarkozy and Carla Bruni-Sarkozy are widely NKINS and trouser suits. his lineup of inventive outerwear that e looked perfect for a mountain hike, i.e. reported by the British press to have been left out of the crowd, although Clarence Jaeger London: Designer Stuart Stockdale the cropped hooded tweed jacket with House declined to confirm or deny any names. Sarah Ferguson has already confirmed TIM J sent out a luxurious lineup in bold red paisley arms. she won’t be attending. The guest list pales in comparison to that of Prince Charles IGNe BY

combinations of brights and muted and Lady Diana Spencer, who hosted 3,500 guests at their wedding at St. Paul’s v tones. Looks included a mustard yellow Peter Pilotto: Tailoring with a twist Cathedral. But Prince William and Kate Middleton are said to be planning with a spirit Le

peacoat with oversize lapels worn defined Peter Pilotto and Christopher of austerity in mind, and wanted to put the focus on close family and friends. Six ND D e a with navy wool cropped pants, and a De Vos’ elegant collection, which hundred guests have been invited to a lunchtime reception at Buckingham Palace, RT shocking pink silk shirt paired with contrasted structured pieces and fluid hosted by Queen Elizabeth II, and 300 have been asked to dinner and dancing at the a tailored black pants. Nearly everything draping. Case in point: a series of palace, hosted by The Prince of Wales. was topped off with a coat or jacket, slouchy pants with wraparound apron and among the standouts were a russet- panels on top. They were paired with FAMILY AFFAIR: “I was trying to remember how to wolf whistle — but I couldn’t do CHUNG, MOSSH colored, cropped ponyskin trench and a a mixture of printed silk blouses, it,” said Simon Le Bon, who watched his model wife, Yasmin, walk the runway for Issa ; TT navy peacoat with a deep V-neck. sleeveless military frock coats and London. “It’s been a couple of fashion weeks since I’ve seen her. These fashion houses e NN e

knits. The palette ran from pale grays need to book her more!” added Le Bon, who for the past few months has been sporting B

a full beard. “We went to India at the end of September, and everybody’s got a beard

J.W. Anderson: Jonathan Anderson proved and creams to darker chain prints in ave D he’s just as serious about his women’s blue, bottle green and red. The duo there, so I stopped shaving. And I’ve been getting very positive feedback — especially collection, now in his third season, also continued their signature knotting from the ladies.” BY as he is about his men’s wear. School- and draping with long jersey dresses, Other front-row guests included Le Bon’s youngest daughter, Tallulah Pine, as well as uniform shapes — such as skinny and shorter flirtier styles with slashes Francesca Versace, Liberty Ross and model-actress Florence Brudenell-Bruce, who has been

pants, jackets and long, pleated skirts at the bust. shooting a horror film in Switzerland. “It’s great, because you can really overact,” she said. DUNST PHOTO 006 WWDSTYLE xxxxxxxxx,Tuesday, february xxxxxxxx 22, 2011xx, 2011 textiles Fresh Mixes For Price Ills By KATYA FOREMAN ANd JOELLE dIdERICH Top: Neon-hued rubberized PARIS — It’s all about blending in for spring 2012 fab- effects on satin by Mantero. rics, with high raw material costs pushing weavers to A banana motif woven fabric increasingly experiment with alternative fiber mixes. by Estamparia Têxtil Adalberto designers attending the recent edition of Première Pinto da Silva. Vision here embraced the trend for blends, lauding the A stonewashed linen-cotton innovation on display across collections. Among the blend by Ultra. fabrics being blended with cotton were linen, viscose, A peachy cotton-viscose synthetics and cellulose-based fibers like Lyocell, Modal blend by Lyria. and Tencel. “It’s a challenge; you have to make something new Bottom: Clerici Tessuto’s puffy out of it,” said Lanvin men’s wear designer Lucas floral design made from nylon, Ossendrijver, who cited Japanese woolen mill Nikke polyamide and polyester. among the standouts. “More blends will come out on the Lightweight nylons by Limonta. market, which I think is more interesting as yarns are a Ratti’s Sixties-style floral silk. lot more advanced than in the Seventies.” Several weavers at the show significantly raised prices, while others declined to quote prices in view of as they are worried wool prices will increase, and they Sherif Moamen, the company’s vice president, market volatility. probably will.” said by telephone that the mill had initially been “Some prefer to give no prices at all as it means tak- Jacki deena Tutelman-Bender, sales director of forced to close for seven days due to a government- ing a big risk on margins,” said Philippe Pasquet, chief Ratti, said, “People are placing meters here, which is imposed curfew, but had since returned to normal executive officer of P V, which ended its three-day run wonderful.” working hours. at the Paris-Nord Villepinte exhibition park on Feb. 10. Manish Arora, who was shopping for fabrics for his Meanwhile, buyers grappled with high prices. Sue Browning, director of fabric research and devel- first spring collection for Paco Rabanne, as the house’s “It’s still really tough,” said Natalie McGuinness, opment at Express, said, “The entire industry is in flux new creative director for women’s wear, lauded the buyer for ladies’ formal tops at Marks & Spencer. “We’re — they are calculating and recalculating.” high-tech fabrics at Italian Converter. looking to do more fabric auctions than we have done Wool prices have risen by around 40 percent over the “They’re very modern, using multitechniques on one before, pooling together all our meterage across the past year, with cotton prices leaping 160 percent, due to material,” he said. business to try and get better leverage of scale. We’re an imbalance of supply and demand. Contributing fac- Collections brimmed with an array of bright col- also looking to different countries to manufacture in to tors include flooding in major cotton-producing territo- ors and prints, from neon-printed silks at Mantero to gain duty benefits,” citing Cambodia and Bangladesh as ries in places such as Australia, China and Pakistan, as an array of fun Thirties-style designs, like a banana fiscally attractive. well as rising demand for cotton from China. motif woven fabric by Estamparia Têxtil Adalberto Tim Robert, sales director at Chadwick Textiles Ltd., However, while certain experts at the event Pinto da Silva. a British supplier of sportswear fabrics and garments, claimed the price of apparel items could rise by 15 “I saw lots of Josephine Baker-flavored graphic said prices of nylon and polyester had risen 15 to 20 per- percent as a consequence of the high cost of raw ma- prints, Liberty florals and heavy Amish-style fabrics,” cent in the last quarter of 2010. terials, designers at PV seemed generally unruffled by observed Gabriella Cortese, founder of Antik Batik. “On some of my basic fabric items that I import into increases on fabrics. While synthetics continue to benefit from cot- the U.K. and then sell on to Europe, I need to find the “Maybe for plain cotton items it will cause a prob- ton shortages, the cycle could shift again, predicted same items cheaper,” Robert said. “I’ve had some suc- lem, but for special items, people are willing to spend,” Roger Lee, managing director at Tecnon OrbiChem, cess at that, but the sportswear suppliers are limited on said dior Homme’s creative director Kris Van Assche. a London-based marketing consultancy specializing knits and wovens,” adding that Texworld was tradition- “I still think [the increase in prices] is very accept- in the chemicals, petrochemicals, plastics and fibers ally stronger on linen, lace, denim and heavy wovens. able when it concerns quality product, with quality of industries. “What we are seeing is not a sea change, A group of Pakistani denim producers attended cut, material and ideas,” said Jil Sander, who was shop- it’s a dip due to natural disasters. Cotton production the show despite a disastrous season that saw much ping for fabrics for her +J collection for Uniqlo. is forecasted to increase and the likelihood is that the of the domestic cotton crop swept away by floods. Both Sander and Raf Simons, who also attended the cycle will repeat itself again. I don’t think that the con- Muhammad Irfan Aslam, manager of fabric sales and show, lauded Limonta’s collection. sumer will see a huge increase other than his cotton marketing at Azgard Nine Ltd., said the company had Exhibitors agreed the mood was upbeat, despite the shirt will cost a bit more.” been forced to raise prices 60 to 70 percent last year price pressures. Several British mills said order books At Texworld, which ran from Feb. 7 to 10, the mood due to the cotton shortage. were bulging. was mixed, with some exhibitors staying away due to “Some of the buyers who are our partners, they are “It’s dramatic, but doesn’t seem to have affected the Chinese New Year and political turmoil in the Arab accepting those increases, but of course not to the ex- business yet,” Martin Aveyard, design director at verti- world. The stand for Egypt’s Wagdy Moamen Weaving tent to which we had to pay for cotton and yarns,” said cal British woolen mill Abraham Moon, said of the cost Mill was empty, with a sign saying its representatives Aslam, adding the situation would not improve until the increases. “In fact, people are placing orders earlier were unable to attend due to the political upheaval. new cotton crop arrives in September. The Fiber Price Sheet The last Tuesday of every month, WWD publishes the current, month-ago and year-ago fiber prices. Prices listed reflect the cost of one pound of fiber or, in the case of crude oil, one barrel.

PRiCE oN PRiCE oN PRiCE oN FiBER 02/21/11 01/24/11 02/22/10 Cotton $1.67 $1.38 64 cents Wool $5.02 $4.83 $3.49 Key Trends at Première Vision Polyester staple 90.5 cents 85.5 cents 77 cents • Blends, using cotton, linen, viscose, synthetic and cellulose-based Polyester filament 79 cents 74 cents 66 cents fibers like Lyocell, Modal and Tencel. • Textured weaves and prints. January Synthetic PPi 111 109 114.7 • Ultralight fabrics, such as organzas and paper-thin nylons. Crude oil $84.99 $89.11 $79.81 • Supersoft, drapy and laundered fabrics. • Elasticity. *The wool price is based on the average price for the week ended Jan. 21 of 11 different thicknesses of fiber, ranging from 18 • Quirky prints, such as Mantero’s range of ink-jet silks. microns to 30 microns, according to The Woolmark Co. information on cotton and polyester pricing is provided by the consulting firm DeWitt & Co. The synthetic fiber producer PRiCE index, or PPi, is compiled by the Bureau of Labor Statistics and reflects the overall • Naturals, from oat to gray and soft terra-cotta, as well as strong colors, change in all synthetic fiber prices. it is not a price in dollars but a measurement of how prices have changed since 1982, which had a DOMINIQUE MAITRE

pushing through to neons. PPi of 100. oil prices reflect last week’s closing price on the New York Mercantile Exchange of future contracts for light, sweet crude BY • Prints, from Thirties-inspired graphics to field of florals. oil to be delivered next month. PHOTOS LUXURY FOR LIFE So soft, you can’t resist a caress. So exclusive, less than 1% of the world’s cotton can be called Supima. Grown only in California and the southwest, then designed into women’s, men’s and home fashions.For those who embrace luxury and treasure comfort. I www.supima.com fall 2011 ready-to-wear : RALPH LAUREN

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