LA Fashion Week: Just North of the Airport

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$2.99 VOLUME 71, NUMBER 45 OCTOBER 16–22, 2015 THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY FOR 70 YEARS

TRADE SHOW REPORT Hot Weather Creates Challenges and Opportunities at LA Market By Andrew Asch, Deborah Belgum and Alison A. Nieder Unseasonably high temperatures and unusually high humidity greeted buyers and exhibitors attending the recent Spring 2016 Los Angeles Fashion Market, which ran Oct. 12–15 in downtown Los Angeles. Some said the hot weather kept local retailers away while others said it prompted out-of-town buyers to stay longer inside air-conditioned showrooms. For retailers, the hot weather across much of the country meant sluggish sales for Fall merchandise. As a result, some buyers had less money available for Spring orders and others were scrambling to fill inventories with warm-weather apparel. That was the scene at LA Market—held at the Califor- nia Market Center, The New Mart, the Cooper Design Space, the Gerry Building and the Lady Liberty building—as well as at temporary trade shows Designers and Agents, Coeur, Brand Assembly L.A. Men’s Market, Shape and Select. ➥ LA Market page 3 Otis Fashion Design School Saying Goodbye to Downtown LA By Deborah Belgum Senior Editor After some 20 years of holding classes at the California Market Center, the fashion design department of the Otis College of Art and Design is leaving the large showroom building in the heart of the LA Fashion District and moving to Otis’ main campus near the Los Angeles International Airport. Some 145 students and 50 faculty members will be pack- ing up their art supplies, mannequins, fashion archives and office equipment to transfer them to a new academic building being constructed at the main campus on Lincoln Boulevard LA Fashion Week: just north of the airport. The move will take place July 1, leaving 38,000 square feet of vacant space that encompasses 24 classrooms, a library and a fitting studio on the second floor of the CMC building. “The school’s administration is into campus consolidation, and they want the students to have access to all the student services within walking distance,” said Rosemary Brantley, the fashion design department’s founding chair, who has been with the college for 36 years. Before the final decision to move, the college’s administrators were trying to reach an agreement with the CMC own- ➥ Otis page 3 NextLos Angeles designer Ashton Michael branchedWave beyond his dark and edgy aesthetic with an intricately detailed men’s and women’s collection that was punctuated with pops of bubble- gum pink. Michael was part of a roster of local and international designers showing at LA’s INSIDE: Where fashion gets down to business SM newest runway event, LA Fashion Week, held at Union Station in downtown Los Angeles. For more from the shows, see pages 6 and 7.

2 2 MAFI winner annouced at FBI’s All Aboard event .. p. 2 Fashion Industries Guild goes to the movies ...p. 2

www.apparelnews.net JOHN ECKMIER

01,3,4,5,6,8,9.cover.indd 1 10/15/15 7:59 PM NEWS AS by DF Honored at Fifth Annual Fashion Industries Guild Goes to the Movies For its annual fund-raiser for the Cedars- FBI All Aboard Fashion Week Show Sinai Medical Center, the Fashion In- Denise Focil, designer of the AS by some of her key buyers, who were invited to dustries Guild changed things up a bit. In DF and ASTARS collections, received the attend the event, as well as the chance to intro- place of the usual formal dinner, this year Moss Adams Fashion Innovator award on Oct. duce AS by DF to new faces. the group hosted a cocktail party and movie 13 at Fashion Business Inc.’s All Aboard “I’m excited to have won the award and for screening at the historic Orpheum Theatre LA’s Fashion Platform runway show and fund- the opportunity to showcase the collection to in downtown Los Angeles. raiser for the nonprofit business organization. so many new people,” she said. Guests enjoyed cocktails and hors “This year’s Moss Adams Fashion Innova- For Spring, AS by DF was inspired by a d’oeuvres as they mingled in the theater’s tor (MAFI) award to De- sense of luxe travel, Focil ornate lobby, checking out the silent-auction nise Focil and AS by DF said. offerings and stocking up on sweets at a can- represents what the award “The Spring collection dy bar before a private screening of the 1994 strives to celebrate—inno- is all about a new year and film “The Adventures of Priscilla, Queen of vation in design,” said Mar- a lightening of the spirit the Desert.”

tin Hughes, Moss Adams and a fresh canvas for new PHOTOS BY THOMAS NEERKEN LLC partner and apparel and endless possibilities,” practices leader. “With the she said. collections’ new direction, The line features airy rich textures, attention to silks, a tropical print and detail and sophisticated lots of springtime suedes. silhouettes, the brand was “I wanted to interpret clearly deserving.” suede in a spring way, in Focil presented a run- spring silhouettes and col- way show for AS by ors,” she said, adding that DF—the first in the label’s suede pieces have been two-year history. The con- among the line’s best- temporary collection is sellers for Spring 2016. AS by DF Designer Denise Focil, Fashion Industries Guild Fashion Industries Guild Cathy and Steve Needleman with the higher-end women’s center, with actress and All Aboard “That’s what’s been reso- board members Diane Vice President Eileen Ellis their daughter, Jessica Needleman division under the Alpin- co-host Erica Ash and Martin nating with retailers,” she and Steve Marienoff and Denis Cronk Lewensztain estars umbrella. When Fo- Hughes, Moss Adams LLC partner said. cil joined the motorsports and apparel practices leader The award also comes apparel company in 2000, at a time when AS by DF she started designing men’s and women’s tech- is expanding its reach, Focil said. Nationwide, nical motorcycle jackets in the company’s of- AS by DF is carried in more than 300 bou- fices in Italy. Today, the Fashion Institute of tiques, including Satine, Fred Segal Santa Design & Merchandising graduate is based Monica, Stylehäus, sLulu’ and Rawk in in Alpinestars’ U.S. headquarters in Torrance, Southern California. Calif., where she designs AS by DF and the “We are opening up so many fantastic re- diffusion brand ASTARS. tailers across the country,” she said. “We’re on Focil said she was excited for the opportu- fire on the sales end of things.” nity to show the collection on the runway to —Alison A. Nieder

Designer Fabric Warehouse Fashion Industries Guild President Jessica Needleman Lewensztain and Dr. Charles Simmons Jr., chairman of the department of pediatrics and director of the division of neonatology at Cedars-Sinai Medical Center

Fashion Industries Guild President Jessica Needleman Lewensztain thanked her parents, Cathy and Steve Needleman, for donating the use of the 1926 theater before introducing Charles Simmons Jr., chairman of the department of pediatrics and director of the division of neonatology at Cedars-Sinai Medical Center. “The Fashion Industries Guild is such a phenomenal institution. This is the 59th year Fashion Industries Guild has been in support of Cedars-Sinai’s mis- sion. I’m very grateful to this organization. They put children in a better place.” This year’s event raised funds for the Fashion Industries Guild Congenital Heart Laboratory and the Hal Kaltman Fashion Industries Guild Congenital Heart Research Endowment at Cedars- Sinai.—A.A.N. Japanese Selvedge Denims Visit our showroom Premium & Novelty Denims Denims & Chambray and shop in our Knits Ron Garber to Merchant Factors 60,000 square feet warehouse Wovens Solids SIGNE Great prices and low minimums DE R Prints Ron Garber, who most recently was the executive vice presi- for small apparel and Woolens dent and regional manager of First Capital Co., has been named décor manufacturers, Linens an exclusive consultant with the Los Angeles office of Merchant DFW Cottons Factors Corp. F exhibit and set decorators, A E Laces The veteran finance expert will help Merchant Factors expand BR US and costumers IC WAREHO Velvets its factoring portfolio in California and develop new business. Silks Garber has an extensive background in factoring and asset- Dead Stock Couture based lending. In recent years he was a regional manager for CIT Free onsite parking - minutes outside downtown LA Vintage Prints Commercial Services and its predecessor companies. 5015 District Blvd 323-277-2777 French Faux Fur He is a past president and board member of the Commercial Vernon, CA 90058 [email protected] Leather hides & remnants Finance Conference of California, an affiliate of the Commer- cial Finance Association. Ron Garber

2 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS OCTOBER 16–22, 2015 APPARELNEWS.NET

02.news.indd 2 10/15/15 8:11 PM NEWS Calendar clothing manufacturers, textile produc- phone calls or emails seeking a comment Continued from page 1 Otis ers, financing resources and lawyers. by press time. Oct. 16 Oct. 24 Metchek, a former fashion designer who The Otis fashion design department Denver Apparel and Accessories The Digital Influencer Lab, ers, Jamison Services Inc., to occupy a once owned her own clothing company, is well-known for its emphasis on design Market presented by Fab Counsel smaller space on the building’s third floor has taught several classes at Otis’ down- and the art of fashion rather than mer- Denver Mart 312 Arizona Ave. to reduce the fashion design school’s town LA campus. “It makes no sense [to chandising, technology or product devel- Denver Santa Monica, Calif. rent. But after months of negotiations, an move] other than not to have to pay more opment, which are taught at other local Through Oct. 19 Stylemax Merchandise Mart agreement wasn’t reached, Brantley said. rent,” she said. fashion design schools. Oct. 18 Having a fashion design school in the Metchek wrote a letter to the college’s It is also renowned for the number of Chicago Fashion Market Northern Through Oct. 27 heart of the LA Fashion District has been administrators urging them to reconsider well-known and well-connected fashion California “WordPress: Build Your Own filled with learning opportunities. “The keeping the school in its current location, designers who volunteer to mentor class- San Mateo Event Center Blog Site” faculty and students share the same feel- but that didn’t help. es of fashion students. Bob Mackie, fa- San Mateo, Calif. California Market Center, A 792 ing that they will miss the proximity to One disadvantage of the move is that mous for his glitzy costumes designed for Through Oct. 20 Los Angeles fabrics, notions and trims as well as hav- many of the current fashion design stu- singers and other entertainers, is a regular ing so many mentors who are just around dents live in the downtown Los Angeles mentor at the school as well as Los An- Oct. 17 Oct. 26 the corner,” Brantley said. “We are going area and don’t have cars. geles designer Trina Turk and swimwear The Saturday Sale Coast Students were told in April that next designers Red Carter and Rod Beattie. California Market Center, Exhibit Mana Wynwood to miss the students feeling the seasons Hall of the business during the various fashion semester’s classes will only be at the This will be the third move for the Miami Los Angeles Through Oct. 27 markets and having all the alumni that Westchester campus. Some students were fashion department. When Brantley, a stop in. I get as many as 25 alumni dur- very disappointed, and others had mixed graduate of Parsons School of Design Oct. 21 Oct. 28 ing every textile show.” feelings. “I think it is good in a way for in New York, launched the department, “Take Your Brand to the Next Kingpins The fashion department will be mov- the students to be all together on the same Otis was located near MacArthur Park, Level,” presented by CIT and Westergasfabriek—Gashouder ing into a brand-new four-story building campus,” said Serena Tang, a sophomore a few miles away from downtown Los CFA Amsterdam being built on the Otis campus, located in at the school. “But it will be inconvenient Angeles in an older neighborhood, where Omni Hotel Through Oct. 29 the Westchester neighborhood of Los An- for finding fabrics and things we want to the school was founded in 1918 by Los Los Angeles geles. The building has two wings—one buy for our projects.” Angeles Times publisher Harrison Otis. It Dallas Apparel and for a dormitory and another for classes Hailey Lee, another sophomore, felt was called the Otis Art Institute. Accessories Market Dallas Market Center There’s more and student services. They will be joined a unified campus would benefit fashion By 1997, the growing art school Dallas on ApparelNews.net. by a 300-seat forum on the ground floor. students in a creative way. “We can all moved to Westchester and into an old Through Oct. 24 “The building is wide open and has look at works of art from other depart- IBM research facility that had been con- FIG For calendar details and contact flexible space,” Brantley said, putting a ments, such as those in the fine arts de- structed in 1964. However, Brantley and FIG information, visit ApparelNews. positive approach to the move. partment, and get ideas,” she said. the fashion department’s associate chair, Dallas net/calendar. But it will leave a big creative hole Both Lee and Tang live in the down- Jack Handford, convinced the school’s Through Oct. 23 in the Fashion District, where many of town area but will be moving to be closer administrators to transfer the fashion de- Otis’s students interned with designers to the Westchester campus when classes partment to the California Market Cen- and manufacturers. start there. ter, then called the California Mart. That Submissions to the calendar should be faxed to the Calendar Editor at (213) 623- 5707. Please include the event’s name, date, time, location, admission price and “I don’t know anybody who is happy It is unclear what the California Mar- was when Corky Newman, the building’s contact information. The deadline for calendar submissions is the Tuesday prior to about it,” said Ilse Metchek, president ket Center will be doing with the large chief executive, reconfigured the second- Friday publication. Inclusion in the calendar is subject to available space and the of the California Fashion Association, empty space left by the school. Jaime floor space to house the fashion design judgment of the editorial staff. a trade group made up of hundreds of Lee, the CMC’s president, did not return department. ●

TRADE SHOW REPORT

LA Market Continued from page 1 of walk-ins and a lot of people from the Mid- west and the South—there are a lot of new on- Strong Start at CMC line stores in the Midwest. I got orders, so that Many showroom owners at the California Market Center was good.” opened early on Sunday, Oct. 11, to meet with buyers who Mitchell rents space within the T&A show- prefer to shop market over the weekend. room on the CMC’s fifth floor. T&A runs “The first two days were very busy—Sunday and Mon- another showroom for its men’s lines on the day morning, especially,” said Peter Jacobson, owner of the CMC’s fourth floor. Creative Concepts showroom on the CMC’s second floor. Shala Theus, T&A brand manager, agreed “After that, it was the usual market up and down—feast or that Tuesday was a strong day but noted that Marie Rafferty and Indigo Davis of famine.” market overall did not seem as busy as in past Happy Socks display at The New Mart Rich Honey at The New Mart It was the same story at Reichman Associates, where seasons. Don and Velma Reichman were showing in a temporary Creative Concepts’ Jacobson agreed. said Jeff Polanco, a partner in Showroom 1205, which car- space on the CMC’s second floor. “The customers that were here were writing,” he said. ries the brands Kalypso 7, Ruby Yaya and Bou Jeloud. “Sunday is usually our best day, and it was again,” Don “[But] the markets today are not as they were in the past be- Buyers were generally optimistic and willing to spend on Reichman said. cause you have 20 or 30 times as many markets for custom- a brand if they felt it was versatile and different, Polanco The Reichmans recently began representing a new line, ers to go to. I see our customers in Berlin, Paris, New York, said. Ariella, which Don Reichman described as “trend right at Las Vegas, Los Angeles and San Francisco.” Because many of the buyers attending this Los Ange- great prices for extra mark-up.” Fred Postal, who runs a showroom on the CMC’s third les Fashion Market had already previewed Spring/Summer Ariella originally launched four years ago in New York floor, was upbeat about the turnout at LA Market, but he 2016 collections at the various apparel trade shows in Las but relocated to Los Angeles, where the line is now pro- said, “Cautious is the byword.” Vegas, they were now more certain in October about what duced. “Spring is selling, but because of the [hot] weather, retail they wanted to invest in for their stores. “They make it here, and people love that,” Don Reichman has had issues,” he said. “I had a very good market, but I Comfort, versatility and a soft fabric were some of the said. “From the first month we sold it to 35 stores, and we’ve spent weeks on the phone [before] and sending mailers. We key points that many retailers were seeking when booking been building ever since.” saw stores from East to West and in the middle.” Spring/Summer merchandise for 2016. Michael Druskin, For Jerry and Judy Wexler, who whose family owns the decades-old Len Druskin chain of represent contemporary collection Action at The New Mart specialty stores in Minnesota and Illinois, said he was look- Mystree in their J. Wexler Sales ing for items that were different. “It has to be unique and showroom on the CMC’s second If buyer traffic could be measured comfortable and something that makes you feel good and is floor, market started busy but re- by how long it takes to get an elevator, versatile,” Druskin said. “People are looking for more color ally picked up on Tuesday. then it was a traffic jam at The New these days.” “We had a few appointments Mart, where the two elevators in the He said people are willing to spend a little more on cer- on Sunday,” Jerry Wexler said. nearly 90-year-old building were con- tain clothing items if they are compelling or have personal- “We were busy on Monday, but stantly jammed with people headed to ity. “People are more than ever willing to spend money if we were busier on Tuesday.” the showrooms. something speaks to them,” Druskin noted. “Price is not the Tuesday was a good day at Traditionally, October is one of the first decision maker.” LKay Showroom, according to strongest fashion markets of the year, Fabric is also really important, he said, noting that tex- owner Lindsay K. Mitchell. and this year was no different, show- tiles should have a nice feel and hand to them. “Tuesday morning was really room owners at The New Mart said. At the Karen Kane showroom, Joyce Christensen said good,” she said. “There were a lot Ariella at Reichman Associates in the CMC “This is our best show of the year,” ➥ LA Market page 4

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01,3,4,5,6,8,9.cover.indd 3 10/15/15 8:01 PM TRADE SHOW REPORT

LA Market Continued from page 1 Select Returns to CMC’s Fashion Theater price points are still important but not as crucial as during The California Market Center once again hosted the Select show, featuring con- leaner years in the recent past. Her sales territory covers temporary apparel, accessories and jewelry resources in the CMC’s Fashion Theater. 12 Western states, and retailers throughout the region are Dan Butler of Lines of Denmark, based in Olympia, Wash., was a returning Select feeling more stable than in the past. “I’m not hearing many exhibitor. He said he has shown about 10 times at Select. doom-and-gloom stories,” she said. “I’m consistently surprised we meet people for the first time here and that it’s a At the multi-line Rande Cohen showroom, business was national show,” he said. busy during Los Angeles Fashion Market. “The energy level Lines of Denmark represents several brands, which, despite the showroom’s name, is up,” said showroom owner Rande Cohen, who said buyer are not all Scandinavian. traffic came in fits and starts to see her lines, which include Ilse Jacobsen and IvyLee Copenhagen are both based in Denmark. Ilse Jacobsen P.J. Salvage, Peace Love World, Old Gringo, Crown Jew- manufactures footwear and raincoats. IvyLee Copenhagen is a footwear brand. el and True to Myself. Butler also represents Stockholm-based Calou, Japan-based U., Pakistan-based She opened on Sunday, one day before the official start Fuchsia and U.K.-based Aspiga, all footwear brands, as well as Lily and Lulu, a line of market, and saw slow business in the morning and then of made-in-LA handbags. brisker activity in the afternoon. “We would have two hours This was the first time at Select for Kristin Karabees, whose company, Bestseller of not a lot, and then we would be jammed,” she said. “I am USA, represents 21 international collections. Karabees was showing two at Select, Vero seeing that people are much more optimistic.” Moda and Noisy May. Wholesale prices for the two lines range from $48 to $128. But product is everything, Cohen said. Higher-end stores “We have some customers we needed to se e out here, and we’re hoping to explore that carry more-progressive merchandise are willing to ex- West Coast distribution,” she said.—Alison A. Nieder Lily and Lulu bags at Select periment with different looks, but more conservative stores are still sticking with the tried-and-true. “If it is slightly off, they won’t buy it,” she said, noting that a garment’s style, Davis said appointments were coming in to view the Rich One of the showroom’s eye-catchers was the wall of col- comfort and feel are the top-selling points these days. Honey line of contemporary basics made in Los Angeles of orful Happy Socks they represent. It enticed Doreen Evans, At the recently opened Rich Honey showroom on The comfortable sweatshirt fabric that comes in dresses, flowy the owner of the Mountain Daisy activewear boutique in New Mart’s fifth floor, foot traffic wasn’t as brisk as on the tops, cropped tops and bottoms wholesaling from $10 to Evergreen, Colo., to wander in and check out the collection. other floors. But the showroom’s Marie Rafferty and Indigo $27. “You always need socks in Colorado,” she said.

Cooper: The heat is all right It was 93 degrees Fahrenheit on Oct. 12, the first official day of market. Conventional wisdom might have said that retailers would have stayed in their stores, but it was great for Sharleen Ernster, the chief executive officer of the women’s swim and lingerie line Hot as Hell, which took its LA Fash- ion Market bow at the Cooper Design Space. “Everyone is in the mood to buy hot-weather apparel,” she said. Retailers who reportedly showed THE ONE: Kristen Aguilera, owner of The One up to see the new line included Nasty Gal, Neiman Showroom, seated at left, takes in a meeting. Marcus, Free People and Revolve. Eric Wheeler, partner in The One, is standing The annex of the Miriana Ojeda Showroom Leila Ross of Leila Ross Sales, who exhibited at Hot as Hell at the Cooper Design Space at right. at the Gerry Building the Cooper’s Cristina Angarola Showroom, said

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4 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS OCTOBER 16–22, 2015 APPARELNEWS.NET

01,3,4,5,6,8,9.cover.indd 4 10/15/15 8:02 PM TRADE SHOW REPORT

that the market was great for out-of-towners. She saw a lot of independent retailers from around the West but not Expanded Offerings at Designers and Agents as many from Los Angeles. Retailers included Skyz from Omaha; Milky Way of Crested Butte, Colo.; and Wild and Buyers crowded the aisles at the Oct. 12–14 run of De- asking for Immediate deliveries. Heart from British Columbia. signers and Agents at The New Mart, which saw an ex- “Even though it’s 100 degrees, people still love cash- Israel Ramirez of the Siblings Showroom also saw out- panded mix of returning and new exhibitors. mere,” she said. of-town stores including South Moon Under, headquar- A knot of buyers crowded around the booth for Alkemie, This season, D&A expanded to a second room, where tered in Berlin, Md., and Evereve from the Minneapolis a Los Angeles–based accessories collection that has shown Cathy Christiansen, owner of The House Showroom in Los area. He estimated that retail traffic seemed the same as the at D&A for about six years. Angeles, was showing four collections: Casmari, a high-end October market the previous year. Husband-and-wife team Ashley Lowengrub and Dara knits collection made in Southern California; Mona Thal- The October market marked a milestone for the Ted Gerson were showing their handmade collection of jewelry heimer, a Los Angeles–based line of high-end blouses; and Baker London showroom on the Cooper’s second floor. made from reclaimed metals, including sterling silver and Christiansen’s two collections, Christiansen Leather appar- The showroom wrapped up the expansion and remodel that a mix of copper, sterling silver and zinc—an alloy the two el and handbags and Christiansen and Girard, a collection it had previewed at the August LA Fashion Market. describe as “like reclaimed bronze.” The company salvages of garment-dyed silks. Earlier in the year, Ted Baker took over some of the metals from old flatware and electrical wire. “We’re a higher price point than most of the lines in space of adjacent showrooms to house the brand’s new col- “No fresh mining,” Lowengrub said. lections, such as homewares and gifts. During the October The line also included leather market, the space unveiled a new setup, including a lounge sourced as a by-product from the meat and customized wallpaper, which features sketches of Los industry. Everything is made in Los Angeles landmarks, said Jade Venison, the head of ladies’ Angeles. apparel and accessories for the brand. Nuthatch is a Rockland, Maine– based line that specializes in apparel Annex at the Gerry Building made from natural-fiber fabrics, such as linen, cotton and silk, which are The Gerry Building got some extra buyer activity during sourced from Italy. The 3-year-old market when showroom owner Miriana Ojeda rented out a company designs clothing with “clas- 10,000-square-foot exhibit space on the ground floor and sic lines” and a “refined fit,” and ev- sublet it to about 10 showrooms representing more than 20 erything is made in Maine, said Beth lines, mostly made in Europe. Bowley, a partner in the collection. “I wanted to create a venue for innovative designers who Nuthatch has been showing at D&A Minnie Rose at D&A Alkemie at D&A cater to a contemporary woman,” said Ojeda, who has a per- in Los Angeles for two years. (The manent showroom on the building’s seventh floor. company also shows at D&A in New York.) D&A,” Christiansen said. “We saw some stores that carry During past market weeks, she has housed extra lines in “It was really good yesterday,” Bowley said on the second our price point.” her showroom or in a nearby empty showroom. But see- day of the show. For example, a hand-dyed sweater coat by Casmari is ing the vacant ground-floor space of the building’s lobby Bowley was one of several exhibitors who said the unsea- wholesale priced at $560. And Mona Thalheimer shirts are inspired her to think big. sonably hot weather has had an impact on retailers’ business. wholesale priced between $125 and $230. Sales reps were glad to have the inviting, airy space, “We definitely had a lot of accounts say they had to be “The fit is perfection,” Christiansen said about the shirts, which gave buyers plenty of room to maneuver among tall, careful because it’s been so hot,” she said. which she said were well received in New York. green plants and a black-and-white–checked rug brought in It was also crowded at the Minnie Rose booth. Mags “Our world is looking for some kind of economic change,” for the event. But buyer traffic was a little more sluggish Dombrowski, sales executive for the New York–based com- Christiansen said. “Everybody is more careful. They buy the than anticipated. pany, said the company’s booth is typically crowded at D&A, lines that perform for them and they do well with. People “We love being here, but this market has been slow,” said “since we’re not local.” have to be wowed by something. They have to have a reason ➥ LA Market page 6 Dombrowski said the show was good, with many retailers to buy.”—Alison A. Nieder

APPARELNEWS.NET OCTOBER 16–22, 2015 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS 5

01,3,4,5,6,8,9.cover.indd 5 10/15/15 8:03 PM TRADE SHOW REPORT LOS ANGELES FASHION WEEK Coeur Bows in New Location This season, lifestyle trade “As a rep, I walked it for the Spring 2016 Collections show Coeur moved to the Al- past four years.” exandria Ballrooms for its Wholesale priced from Los Angeles Fashion Week, which got underway on Oct. 5, continued to showcase the col- Oct. 12–14 run. $22 to $78, Bretboho is sold lections by Los Angeles and international designers at events organized by Style Fashion Week, The new space, which in Zulily, Haute Look, Ur- Art Hearts Fashion and Metropolitan Fashion Week as well as newcomers LA Fashion Week combined classic Hollywood ban Outfitters and South and Fashion Week Los Angeles. There were also independent runway shows, events and parties style with modern elements, Moon Under. held across the city. Additional coverage can be found at ApparelNews.net. featured floor-to-ceiling win- Another new collection Hale Bob dows that overlooked Spring was Korut Studio, a made- Street in downtown Los An- in-America jewelry line geles. based in Berkeley, Calif. “We are the first-ever event Owner Lisa Kaufman in this space,” said Henri started the line six months Myers, co-founder of Coeur. Bretboho bags at Coeur ago and has landed orders “They completed the renova- with San Francisco boutiques tions last week.” such as Life and Heartfelt. Kaufman has her Myers said the space was a good fit for the designs 3-D printed and then cast in silver or show’s lifestyle focus, which includes jewelry, bronze. Wholesale prices range from $28 to handbags, apparel, loungewear, bedding, home $120. décor and fragrance. Love Tanjane designer Sonia Erneux was The Alexandria Ballrooms are located north at Coeur with her collection of dresses, tops of Coeur’s previous location at the Cooper and casual loungewear hand-dyed in Ojai, Ca- Design Space, which had been Coeur’s Los lif. Angeles home since 2011. Shuttle buses em- The collection began as a lingerie line and

blazoned with the Coeur logo ferried buyers evolved over time into a loungewear collection VOLKER CORELL featuring tie-dyed rayon/Lycra knits. More recently, Erneux has added new styles such as caftans and bias-cut slip Peggy Moffitt dresses in new fabrications, including LA Fashion Week a made-in-USA cotton gauze and a Polina Zeynalian Japanese cupro rayon. Wholesale prices range from $44 to $79 for the gauze pieces and $62 to $110 for the cupro styles. This was Love Tanjane’s second season at Coeur. “I love the fact that it’s a lifestyle show,” Erneaux said. “I was excited to see the new look. The spirit of the show is fun and positive.” VOLKER CORELL Coeur’s new space at the Alexandria Ballrooms Erneux met with some of her exist- between the two venues. ing retailers at Coeur and opened a new ac- Retailers shopping the show included Nor- count in Southern California. dstrom, Scoop, Nest, Adorn, Lush, Revolve, This was the first time showing at Coeur in Lost & Found and Nina at Fred Segal as Los Angeles for Delphine Germano, fashion VOLKER CORELL well as the museum shops at the Museum consultant for Jack Gomme, a French hand- Araksi Balyan of Contemporary Art and the Los Angeles bag collection. County Museum of Art. The bags are made in France from Italian Designer Anita Arze was among the return- leather. There are also some fabric bags and ing exhibitors at the show. Arze, who said she totes, including a coated linen tote bag that was landed a few orders for her collection of Boliv- getting a good response at Coeur and ultra- ian-made luxury knitwear, praised the show’s lightweight bags made with a Japanese fabric. new look. Germano was consistently busy at the show, “The buyers love the new space,” she said. meeting with several potential new stores. Shaina Fast, owner of the It Matters Studio “I feel very privileged a lot of people showroom, was showing at Coeur for the first stopped by,” she said, adding that she met the time with Bretboho, her newly launched col- owners of new Los Angeles store Please Do lection of yoga bags, totes and cosmetic bags. Not Enter, which placed an order for the col- “Coeur has a great reputation,” she said. lection.—Alison A. Nieder VOLKER CORELL Ashton Michael LA Market Continued from page 5 room until 10 p.m. that night. For women’s styles, the trend was color- Françoise Nowak of The Continental Look ful, loose and ethnic. showroom in New York. She was showing two “There’s a lot of bohemian on the mar- lines—jewelry label Tzuri Gueta and clothing ket,” Burton said. Globe was in tune with line Catherine André—both from Paris. this market with its debut. For the Spring IIMUAHII Ojeda said buyer traffic at her showroom 2016 Los Angeles Majors Market, the was not as busy as she had expected but showroom introduced Portuguese line was still decent. “The people who had ap- Christophe Sauvat, which was reminiscent pointments came and did nice business, and of clothes with a Moroccan angle. I picked up new accounts,” she said, not- Business across the hall at The One ing Sunday and Monday were particularly Showroom was busy, as well. Kristen good. Aguilera, owner of The One Showroom, Other Gerry Building showrooms were estimated that traffic increased 30 percent pleased with the number of buyers who compared with last year. came by and left paper, but they noted that The One Showroom saw leading bou- store owners were tempering their pur- tiques such as Seattle-based Mercer during chases because the unusually hot October the market. It also saw a significant showing weather was putting a damper on selling of department stores such as Saks, Neiman Fall and Winter merchandise. Marcus and Bloomingdale’s. “They all like to come out for this market,” Aguilera Lady Liberty: Bohemian Popular said. “It’s a totally different energy in Los Angeles compared to New York. … They Traffic at The Globe Showroom was want to come [to Los Angeles] when every- heavy on Monday and Tuesday, said Tracey body is here, so they can see the reaction to Burton, co-owner and founder of the con- the different lines.” temporary showroom at The Lady Liberty. For the recent market, Scanlan Theo- For the first day of the market, she re- dore, an Australian designer label line, took

ported that her team did not leave the show- its bow at The One. ● JOHN ECKMIER JOHN ECKMIER

6 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS OCTOBER 16–22, 2015 APPARELNEWS.NET

01,3,4,5,6,8,9.cover.indd 6 10/15/15 8:04 PM LOS ANGELES FASHION WEEK Art Hearts Fashion Stello Aussie Gear Elochee VOLKER CORELL JEFF LINETT Vis a Vis Amato Haute Couture VOLKER CORELL Gregorio Sanchez JEFF LINETT JEFF LINETT Responsive Textiles JOHN ECKMIER Nicole Miller

JEFF LINETT Amren Tulano JOHN ECKMIER

Dan Richters Courtney Allegra JEFF LINETT JEFF LINETT JEFF LINETT

Fashion Business Inc. /éis/ AS by DF Chyangra Pashmina JEFF LINETT MK Collab VOLKER CORELL VOLKER CORELL Plush Cashmere Vene Ai Odina VOLKER CORELL VOLKER CORELL VOLKER CORELL VOLKER CORELL

APPARELNEWS.NET OCTOBER 16–22, 2015 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS 7

07.LAFW.indd 7 10/15/15 8:16 PM TRADE SHOW COVERAGE Shape Enters Third Season Athletic wear, yoga wear and swimwear were front and center at the third Shape show, organized by the California Market Center on the building’s 13th floor. This season, the number of exhibitors de- clined by more than 20 percent. In the past, the shows have had more than 30 exhibitors, but for the Oct. 12–14 run, there were only 24 companies listed as exhibitors. Because the first day of the show fell on Columbus Day, a holiday for some, there weren’t many buyers. But business picked up the second and third days. A returning vendor was Aimee M, known Hedy and Catherine Bendel recently launched a for its unique prints, which have been copy- line of loungewear called Jebecah Pret-a-Porter. righted. Everything is made of recycled materials and vivid colors and designs. “We’ve wholesale for $34 to $36 and come in long had a lot of interest in made-in-America, and and cropped silhouettes. that is what we have,” said Dana Tomello, Another returning vendor at the show was a promotional model with the Los Angeles Cozy Orange Yoga Apparel, whose designs company. Aimee M concentrates on bottoms that ➥ Shape page 9 LAMM: Seeks Alternative in New Space Now in its fifth season, format in a market the Los Angeles Men’s where most of the Market moved to a new market’s action goes A Very Special Thank You From event location in the Cali- on in showrooms. It fornia Market Center was also a welcome called Space 10B. break from his work Fashion Business Inc. This was the first trade routine, which typi- show to produce an event cally keeps him on To All Our Sponsors for a in the new 45,000-square- the road or in his of- foot events space, which is fice. He said most of Successful Night of located on the 10th floor of his business was pre- the showroom building’s B booking orders for Fun, Fashion, and Fund Raising! wing. the Australian line LAMM ran Oct. 12–13 Annex and the Los with a mix of men’s fash- Angeles line Dead ions, streetwear, action Society. sports and footwear. For Geoff Nishi- Biannual trade shows moto of sports- typically focus on the Fall lifestyle line Brand and Spring season, but Gil Gomez, center, at his booth for the Black, LAMM had a LAMM’s shows focus on Black Circle Agency good pace. “There’s a the “shoulder” seasons of nice mix of brands,” Summer and Winter, said Kellen Roland, he said. “It’s an opportunity to have a more founder of LAMM. The trade show offers a extended conversation with clients.” platform for shoulder seasons, which don’t The place also served as a powwow for receive as much attention as styles for major salespeople who sell men’s styles in Los seasons, he said. Angeles’ Fashion District, said Reno Cal- New brands making a debut at LAMM abrese, sales manager for The Park Show- included PRPS, Daniel Wellington, RVCA, room. Palladium and Azul by Moussy. The label “The camaraderie is great. I see people 27 Miles Malibu introduced its men’s line who I have worked with over the years and I at the show. Roland said that 120 brands don’t get the opportunity to see.” exhibited at the trade show. Other brands Cesar Cardona, West Coast sales for the making an encore performance there were Crooks & Castles brand, said the easygoing Michelle Lee Undefeated, Stüssy, Brixton, Happy Sox, show also has a strong work ethic. “There Herschel Supply Co. and 10 Deep. are no rappers on hoverboards looking for Retailers reportedly seen at the show in- free clothes,” he said. “This is more busi-

AIMS360, California Apparel News, Chef Hwang Catering Co., CIT Commercial Services, Cohn Handler Strum, Comerica Bank, Doniger Burroughs, Edmund Kim International Inc., Ezra Brutzkus Gubner LLP, Fineman West & Co. LLP, Greenspan Consulting, Hana Financial, Hilldun Corp., HSBC, Intrepid Investment Bankers LLC, Kreiger Worldwide, Martini & Rossi, Mary D Hall CPA, Merchant Factors, Michelle Lee, Milberg Factors Inc., Rock Revival, Moss Adams, Monster Engergy, Much & House, Nally & Millie, Platform Apparel, Rosenthal & Rosenthal, A meeting at the 10 Deep booth Kellen Roland, founder of LAMM Sino Tequila, SMA CPA, Stony Apparel Corp., Suzanne Von Schaack Productions, The New Mart, Tito's Handmade Vodka, TNT, cluded American Rag, Barneys New York, ness-oriented.” However, he said he thinks UBS, UPS, Wells Fargo Capital Finance, Wunder Models Equinox, Kitson, Shiekh Shoes, StitchFix. LAMM management could do more to bring com, the Sundance Catalog, Zappos and additional buyers to the show. Azalea SF. Roland said that he hoped to produce the Fashion Business Inc. Giil Gomez, owner of the Black Circle next LAMM show in late March. It probably 110 E 9th Street, Suite A792, Los Angeles, CA 90079 Agency, said one of the reasons he likes will return to Space 10B. He forecasted that (213) 892-1669 www.fashionbizinc.org LAMM is because it is an alternative to the it would offer 40 percent more brands than LA Fashion Market. It offers a trade-show the recent show.—Andrew Asch

8 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS OCTOBER 16–22, 2015 APPARELNEWS.NET

01,3,4,5,6,8,9.cover.indd 8 10/15/15 8:05 PM TRADE SHOW COVERAGE Apparel News Group Shape Continued from previous page Brand Assembly Branches Out encompass not only yoga clothing but casual and comfortable sweat- This season, Brand ers and bottoms made from re- Assembly expanded to 1945-2015 cycled materials. “Yesterday was 112 brands. Seventy years of news, a little slow because of Columbus “It’s our biggest show fashion and information CEO/PUBLISHER Day, but today, the second day, is ever,” said Alex Re- TERRY MARTINEZ better. There is a little buzz, and pola, who produces the buyers are coming up here,” said upscale contemporary EXECUTIVE EDITOR CLASSIFIED ACCOUNT Dalma Pszotka, a sales rep for the trade show with Hillary ALISON A. NIEDER EXECUTIVES SENIOR EDITOR ZENNY R. KATIGBAK JEFFERY YOUNGER company, headquartered in Carls- France. DEBORAH BELGUM CLASSIFIED ACCOUNTING bad, Calif. For the Oct. 12–14 RETAIL EDITOR MARILOU DELA CRUZ ANDREW ASCH She was seeing buyers from run of the show, Brand SERVICE DIRECTORY EDITORIAL MANAGER ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE boutiques and yoga studios, which Assembly expanded to JOHN IRWIN JUNE ESPINO CONTRIBUTORS were from all over, including Se- fill the space on the top PRODUCTION MANAGER ALYSON BENDER KENDALL IN dona, Ariz., to check out the yoga floor of the Cooper De- VOLKER CORELL apparel that wholesales for $20 to sign Space. (In the past, RHEA CORTADO ART DIRECTOR JOHN ECKMIER DOT WILTZER $45 and is manufactured in Taiwan Brand Assembly shared TIM REGAS PRODUCTION ARTIST and Cambodia. the space with the Coeur FELIX SALZMAN N. JAYNE SEWARD JOHN FREEMAN FISH A first-time exhibitor at the trade show during the Brand Assembly’s emerging-designers section SARAH WOLFSON PHOTO EDITOR show was Jebecah Pret-a-Sport, a March and October mar- WEB PRODUCTION JOHN URQUIZA relatively new company owned by kets. This season, Coeur MORGAN WESSLER CREDIT MANAGER CREATIVE MARKETING RITA O’CONNOR a mother-and-daughter team from moved to a new venue a few blocks away. See in inventories with more warm-weather pieces. DIRECTOR Palm Springs, Calif. This was the related story, this issue.) “We’re doing a lot of Immediates because of LOUISE DAMBERG PUBLISHED BY DIRECTOR OF SALES TLM PUBLISHING INC. first time they had ever shown at a France said the expanded space allowed the that,” she said. AND MARKETING APPAREL NEWS GROUP trade show, even though they have show to add more exhibitors and create a larger Another returning collection at the show TERRY MARTINEZ Publishers of: SENIOR ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE California Apparel News Waterwear walked several shows in the past to emerging-designers section in the center of the was Calvin Rucker, the Los Angeles–based AMY VALENCIA Decorated check them out. “We have not seen show. Brand Assembly featured a mix of ap- line designed by Joie Rucker and Caroline Cal- ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE many buyers,” said Catherine Ben- parel and accessories collections. vin. LYNNE KASCH EXECUTIVE OFFICE BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT California Market Center tel, who co-owns the label with her “We’ve been seeing a lot DANIELLA PLATT 110 E. Ninth St., Suite A777 mother, Hedy Bentel, a designer of our favorite accounts come MOLLY RHODES Los Angeles, CA 90079-1777 SALES & MARKETING COORDINATOR (213) 627-3737 who got her training in Switzerland. back,” Calvin said. TRACEY BOATENG Fax (213) 623-5707 Classified Advertising Fax This season, the designers SALES ASSISTANT/RECEPTIONIST Their line is more sophisticat- (213) 623-1515 NOEL ESCOBAR ed and crosses over into elegant split their denim offerings into www.apparelnews.net ADMINISTRATIVE ASSISTANT [email protected] loungewear made of a heavier ray- its own group, separate from the RACHEL MARTINEZ Printed in the U.S.A. on/spandex fabric that drapes nice- Calvin Rucker collection. SALES ASSISTANT ly for the line’s dresses, jumpsuits, “It warranted having its own PENNY ROTHKE-SIMENSKY pants with pockets and shirred tops story in the Calvin Rucker way,” with a built-in bra. Rucker said. “We’re targeting Catherine Bentley was thinking other accounts that possibly that perhaps next time the company don’t carry the collection but would show its line at the Select would be interested in the den- show, located on the ground floor im.” of the CMC building, where there The Spring line is inspired old swimwear, ready-to-wear and accessories might be more foot traffic. by sirens—“which is what we collection from New York. —Deborah Belgum call mermaids gone bad,” Calvin Sales Director Chelsea Lachowicz said the Rachel Ruddich at Brand Assembly said. company is looking to open more West Coast Calvin and Rucker worked stores. Lachowicz said most of the retailers she with UK-born, LA-based artist saw at Brand Assembly were West Coast based “We want it to be a curated show so buyers Steven Bryan, who created several prints to but added, “We see everyone else in New York can find everything to fill their stores,” France convey the theme, including a black-and-white and Paris.” said. coral print and a moody print created from an Lynn Rosetti, owner of the #8 New York Traffic at the show was steady, France said aerial shot of a stormy sea. showroom, was another new exhibitor at Brand on the second day of the show. “Yesterday was “We had the concept of using layered chif- Assembly, but she had showed at Coeur last really good despite it being Columbus Day.” fon to make things look like they’re underwa- season. Returning exhibitor Elizabeth Lewis, owner ter,” Rucker said. “I like the Cooper building,” she said. of the SYDNY showroom, represents and dis- New exhibitors to Brand Assembly included Rosetti represents several accessories col- tributes Australian lines such as Tiger Lily and Leonarda Barbieri, showroom manager for lections, including jewelry lines Poupette and Ministry of Style. Showroom 212, based in New York, who was Vanessa Lianne as well as several handbag “It’s always consistent and a really nice showing the collection for Brazilian designer lines, including Rosetti’s own Oliveve line plus group of buyers and great brands,” Lewis said, Cecilia Prado. Hare + Hart; Marie Turnor, a Los Angeles– adding that she saw buyers from across Cali- “Yesterday was good for us,” Barbieri said made collection of bags crafted from Italian fornia as well as Florida, the Midwest and the on the second day of the show. “We’re trying to leather; and a new collection, Rachel Ruddich. South. do more shows on the West Coast. It’s an area Rosetti said she was pleased with the show. Dalma Pszotka of Cozy Orange Yoga “Everyone is talking about the weather,” we want to grow.” “It’s the brands we want to be with,” she said. Apparel shows off some of the casual Lewis said, adding that her transitional collec- This was also the first time showing at “There hasn’t been a ton of traffic, but they sweaters the company manufactures. tions are a good fit for retailers needing to fill Brand Assembly for Solid & Striped, a 3-year- were writing.”—Alison A. Nieder

Directory of Professional Services & Business Resources

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APPARELNEWS.NET OCTOBER 16–22, 2015 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS 9 To advertise in the Directory of Professional Services & Business Resources 01,3,4,5,6,8,9.cover.indd 9 call June Espino 213-627-3737 x250 10/15/15 8:06 PM or E-mail: [email protected] CLASSIFIEDS Visit www.apparelnews.net/classifieds www.apparelnews.net P 213-627-3737 Ext. 278, 280 to place your ad in our self-serve system F 213-623-1515 Jobs Available Jobs Available Jobs Available

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10 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS OCTOBER 9–15, 2015 APPARELNEWS.NET

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MBER 21 MAY 22–28, 2015 JULY 3–9, 2015 $2.99 VOLUME 71, NU $2.99 VOLUME 71, NUMBER 28 YEARS 70 YEARS E INDUSTRY FOR THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY FOR 70 THE VOICE OF TH MADE IN AMERICA Downtown LA Retail How a New Free-Trade Holds Promise but No Agreement Would Affect U.S. Textile and Clothing Makers Guarantees for Success By Andrew Asch Retail Editor By Deborah Belgum Senior Editor One of the biggest free-trade agreements ever negotiated- Almost every night, bars and restaurants are hopping in Trans-Pacific Partner by the United States could be a done deal by the end of this downtown Los Angeles, a once-blighted area that is going year. But it is still unclear how the through an unparalleled boom, but boutique retailers don’t , Haus of ship will affect textile and apparel makers that manufacture- feel like they entirely share in the city’s new, Curio prosperity. in the United States. Earlier this year, a group ofPale boutiques Violet in downtown’s One of the key items in the new free-tradeTrade agreement Agree - historic core neighborhood— with 11 other countriesNorth is whether American there Free will be a yarn-for Love, and Buttons and Bows, a resale boutique co-owned ward rule. Under the Dominican Republic–Central➥ Made in America America page 3 by Karen Marley, daughter of reggae legend Bob Marley— ment and the all shuttered. It gave pause to the momentum that seemed to be driving a high-end boutique retail boom, taking place in a neighborhood that is experiencing a wave of housing construction and debuts of high-end bars and restaurants, The Stronghold to Move such as Redbird, which has received critical praise and at- tracted gourmands from throughout the region. There’s a growing number of brands and retailers who Abbot Kinney Store, Plans ➥ Downtown LA page 7 Retail Expansion By Andrew Asch Retail Editor The Stronghold, which bills itself as Los Angeles’ oldest TRADE SHOW REPORT clothing label, will be making some new moves. The 120-year-old label is scheduled to relocate its Abbot Kinney Boulevard store, also called The Stronghold. The Venue: Bigger label also plans to expand its e-commerce and bricks-and- mortar retail in the next 12 months. The Stronghold will move into a 1,200-square-foot space Brands, Bigger Venue on the west side of a 3,600-square-foot building,➥ Stronghold which page has 2 housed its retail, design and administrative operations since By Andrew Asch Retail Editor

Buyers Looking for Immediates and Venue, a trade show that started as a platform for emerging streetwear brands, went on a growth spurt for its May Fall Merchandise at Fashion Market 19–20 run. The trade show moved to its biggest venue yet in its Thetwo- Northern California Writer year history. With 80 booths, the show, said filled Miles 85 percent Canares, of By Christina Aanestad Contributing the 60,000-square-foot second-floorLA Mart events space at , formerly called the SAN MATEO, Calif.—Fall fashions, Immediate Sum- Reef Venue’s founder. Venue’s previous address was the events mer items and accessoriesSan Mateo filled Events the nearly Center 105,000-square- for the June Cooper Design Space showroom building, foot space at the space at the where it hosted 50 booths in July. LRG, Diamond 21–23 run of Fashion Market Northern California. Previously a trade show for emerging brands, Crooksthe recent & “It’s one of the most successful regional markets,” said Black Scale and Nina Perez, a former Northern California sales represen- Venue includedHuf high-profile, Primitive labels, such as tative now based in Los Angeles, who still➥ travels FMNC to page the 6 Supply Co., region for her “loyal following.” Castles. Gee Dela Cruz, marketing manager➥ for Venue Los Angepage 5-

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The Park ... p. 2 American Rag opens Chinese in-store shop ... p. 2 New OC outlet ... p. 2 American Apparel files suit against Charney ... p. 3 New Woodbury University trustees p. 3 Runway plans for Miami Swim ... p. 4 Flagship showroom moves ... p. 7 International Inspiration Salute to Suppliers & Services Resources ... p. 9 Keith Gunning found inspiration in London-based artist Leigh Bowery for a d on the runway at the L.A. Convention Center www.apparelnews.net collection made from neoprene, which bowed on the runway at the annual www.apparelnews.net Clear Launche looks from the show, see page 8. Academy of Art University graduation fashion show, held May 14 in San Contemporary collection Clear / Kai Milla bowe Francisco. For more from the show, see page 6. as part of the BET Awards festivities. For mor

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