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2 WWD, FRIDAY, JULY 17, 2009 WWD.COM Court Hears Tiffany Appeal of eBay Case By Matthew Lynch Swire used his time before the three-judge panel to restate Tiffany’s argument that eBay’s NEW YORK — The five-year legal battle between business model contributed to, and sometimes WwDfridayBeauty Tiffany & Co. and eBay Inc. moved to a federal profited from, the sale of counterfeit goods. GENERAL appeals court on Thursday. Based on that general knowledge, Swire said, s 1 The industry scrambled for financing Thursday as The two sides agree on at least one thing: the Web site should be held responsible for CIT Group Inc. tried to raise capital and avoid bank- there are counterfeits for sale at the online auc- verifying the goods its users sell. Tiffany sought ruptcy after being refused a government bailout. tion house. But they differ on whose duty it is to to protect the consumer and protect the brand prevent those knockoffs from being sold, which owner, he said. 2 The five-year legal battle between Tiffany & Co. formed the crux of legal arguments before the “That focus is not mentioned once in the dis- and eBay Inc. over preventing counterfeit sales U.S. Second Circuit Court of Appeals. trict court decision,” he added. moved to a federal appeals court. The court’s decision, which isn’t expected for During Swire’s argument, Judge Richard 3 The apparel manufacturing industry in Dhaka, several months, will mark the first time a fed- Goldberg interrupted to ask what more eBay Bangladesh, is healing after labor unrest, arson eral appeals panel rules on the issue of counter- could do to prevent counterfeits. attacks and vandalism last month. feit sales at online auctions. According to legal “They could do a lot more if they had the re- experts, and others in the intellectual property sponsibility to take action,” Swire replied. 3 USTR Ron Kirk said the Obama administration community, the case has the chance to set prec- Bruce Rich, attorney for eBay, countered will put enforcement of trade agreements center edent in a field that has had little regulation. that the Web site does respond to brand owners’ stage in its emerging trade policy. Tiffany lost its initial case against the Web site specific requests and pointed out that Vero, its 5 David Chu has launched a strategic partnership in a U.S. District Court decision handed down a own notification system, had stopped hundreds with golf legend Jack Nicklaus to develop the little more than a year ago. of thousands of counter- Nicklaus brands around a worldwide strategy. That ruling, based on a 2004 feit auctions in recent lawsuit, said it is Tiffany’s years. Rich told the court 5 Bloomingdale’s will create in-store shops featuring duty to police eBay auctions Tiffany is asking eBay to a collection of apparel made from Supima, the for counterfeits and notify police every item labeled brand of pima cotton grown in the U.S. the Web site of any trade- “Tiffany” on the site with 10 From classic fragrances to new skin care players mark infringement. tools it does not have. and bath and body marketers, many firms that “This is a new business “Multiply that out by all market to men are making big fall plans. model,” Tiffany attorney the other luxury goods on James Swire said of eBay sale at eBay and you would Classified Advertisements...... 15 during his argument. “If have a model that collaps- To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is you’re going to place that es,” he said. [email protected], using the individual’s name. burden on brand owners, The appeals court panel WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2009 you have to consider that acknowledged the impor- FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 198, NO. 12. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one there’s a lot of small brand tance of the case, allotting additional issue in January, May, October, November and December, two additional issues in March, April, June and owners out there.” each side 20 minutes to August, and three additional issues in February and September) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division of Advance make its argument, instead Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast Publications: S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President/CEO; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice The legal battle of the typical five or 10. President/COO; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President/Human Resources. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and Judge Barrington Parker at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services between Tiffany and Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P.O. Box 503, RPO eBay Inc. continues. Jr. alluded to the historical West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6 POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box significance of the proceed- 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615–5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ings when he referred to Inwood Laboratories Inc. ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. Subscribers: If the Post vs. Ives Laboratories Inc., a 1982 case upon which Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address the lower court based much of its ruling. In that case, within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are the U.S. Supreme Court found that those not directly ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues.” First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production responsible for trademark infringement could still correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions and reprint requests, be held responsible for it. Brands have used the please call 212-630-4274 or fax requests to 212-630-4280. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other case to target flea market owners and landlords Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not who allow counterfeiters to sell on their property. want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or “When Inwood was written, what we’re deal- call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY ing with now would have been in the realm of OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, science fiction,” Parker said. PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS The courtroom, normally half full, was packed SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER with attorneys representing other Web sites and MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. luxury brands. Yahoo, Amazon, Coty and the Council of Fashion Designers of America have all filed briefs in the case. DAILY It’s deadly for the shmata QUote “business. For the apparel McComb Contract Extended at Claiborne industry as a whole it’s very serious. For By Arnold J. Karr reorganized the firm into direct and partnered brand units, outplaced its sourcing operations the ordinary apparel company it’s like they William McComb, chief executive and worked to reinvigorate the fashion con- officer of Liz Claiborne Inc., has a new tent of many of its lines, particularly the Liz can’t function, they can’t buy or sell. three-year contract. Claiborne New York collection now being de- ” According to a regulatory filing with the signed by Isaac Mizrahi. — American Apparel Inc.’s founder Securities and Exchange Commission, McComb’s Claiborne has amassed considerable losses as Dov Charney on the CIT situation. Page 13 pact, executed on Tuesday, carries his employ- it’s restructured and slimmed down. Including ment at Claiborne to July 14, 2012, and will be impairment charges, the company’s losses last extended automatically for an additional month year hit $951.8 million as revenues fell 10 per- CORRECTION for each month of service. cent to $3.98 billion. Marc Worth was the investor behind the Ossie Clark label, which is McComb joined Claiborne as ceo closing due to market conditions. Julian Worth, Marc’s brother, was on Nov. 6, 2006, and the company had not involved in the Ossie Clark business and was incorrectly linked added incentive to come to terms with William McComb to Ossie Clark in a story on page 3, Thursday. him before his three-year anniversary. He would have been entitled to a lump sum payment of $4 million if he hadn’t David TODAY ON received a new agreement 90 days be- Scott fore expiration of the earlier one. Smith Most details of McComb’s arrange- .com ment remained unchanged, including WWD his $1.3 million salary. However, a sev- • WWD Blog: A Philadelphia erance benefit agreement was altered to conform more closely to those of bartender photographs her executives who report to him. If his regulars, fans of Sfoglia get a employment is terminated “without new restaurant in Manhattan and cause or by him for good reason,” the an impression of Dan Graham’s ceo would receive a lump sum equal

a new exhibit at the Whitney.

to two times his salary at the time and f l

two times his target annual bonus of 150 percent In 2008, McComb’s overall compensation fell to • More images from Jonathan of his base salary and other consideration. 13.4 percent to $5.5 million, including his $1.3 ah S Kelsey’s short film screening. r In the previous agreement, McComb would have million base salary. Stock and option awards, • Beauty Roundup y Sa

received a payment of $4 million upon termination. not necessarily recognized because of vesting b

McComb’s tenure has been a turbulent one as schedules and falling stock prices, fell to $3.8 • Online this weekend: Week in oto

he’s overseen the sale of numerous nameplates, million from $4.5 million in 2007. ph Review and Story of the Week WWD, FRIDAY, JULY 17, 2009 3 WWD.COM

Ron Kirk said the Obama Wal-Mart’s Duke Details Green ‘Index’ administration will enforce violation in trade pacts. By Sharon Edelson The retailer is asking its top-tier U.S. suppliers to complete the survey by Oct.1. Unveiling plans for a worldwide sus- As part of the initiative, Wal-Mart is helping tainable product index, Wal-Mart Stores Inc. presi- to create a consortium of universities, suppli- dent and chief executive officer Mike Duke said ers, retailers, NGOs and government to develop Thursday consumers are demanding more account- a global database of information about the life ability on how products affect the environment. cycle of products, from raw materials to dispos- Duke cited the world’s rising population and al. “It is not our goal to own this index,” Duke decreasing natural resources in explaining the said, noting that Wal-Mart will partner with one ambitious initiative. or more technology companies to create an open “It is estimated that the global population will platform that will power the index. reach 9 billion by 2050,” he said. “Natural resourc- The last step of the project will be translating es for everything we grow, eat, drink, make, pack- the index into a rating that’s easily understood by age, buy, transport and throw away is consumers. The system could take the outpacing the earth’s capacity form of a numeric score, color Kirk Talks Tough on Trade to sustain it. Customers want code or other type of label. By Liza Casabona more efficient, longer-lasting, “One of the things we’ve better-performing products. learned in apparel is that The Obama administration will seek to lower trade They want to know that the sustainability processes barriers U.S. companies face abroad and increase pressure on coun- materials in the product are driven by innovative tries to correct labor violations as it puts enforcement center stage are safe, that the product ideas,” Mary Fox, a mem- in trade policy, U.S. Trade Representative Ron Kirk said Thursday. is made well-made and that ber of Wal-Mart’s U.S. appar- “I can tell you with no reservations, the Obama administration is the product was produced in el team, said at the meeting. both willing and able to enforce our trade agreements,” Kirk said a responsible way.” “My daily experience with in a speech to steelworkers at the Mon Valley Works complex in The index will require the sup- Wal-Mart suppliers is that each of Braddock, Pa. “Enforcement cannot be an afterthought. It needs to pliers of the world’s largest retailer them discuss with me what they be a centerpiece of trade policy.” to assess the impact of their prod- as a company are doing towards As part of its enforcement strategy, Kirk said his office will focus ucts on the environment. It will the sustainability initiative,” on the identification and elimination of trade barriers that affect U.S. establish a single source of data said designer Norma Kamali. farmers and manufacturers and will work to open foreign markets. for evaluating the sustainability of “For example, I just met with Kirk said the USTR was committed to identifying and resolving products, similar to labels on foods a handbag supplier who is re- labor violations of existing trade agreements, including initiating that list nutrition facts. thinking stuffing the handbags formal dispute settlement proceedings. Under the existing model, The plan was outlined during a with paper for the floor presen- the enforcement of the labor provisions in trade pacts was initiated meeting with 1,500 suppliers, environ- tation and coming up with al- by complaints and relied on the governments of other nations to mental leaders and Wal-Mart associ- ternatives. Another company monitor the labor practices of their domestic companies. ates at the company’s Bentonville, discussed the most efficient “To date, we have enforced our trading partners’ labor obligations Ark., headquarters and broadcast A juniors organic cotton Earth Day way to transport the labels or only on a complaint-driven basis,” Kirk said. “Well, no longer.” live on walmartstores.com. Tee inspired by Beyoncé. hangtags to save fuel and re- The USTR and other federal agencies will monitor the labor Wal-Mart said the sustainability duce the carbon footprint.” practices in other countries to make sure they comply with require- index — basically a scorecard for holding sup- Andrew Winston, author of “Green Recovery: Get ments of the trade pacts. pliers accountable — could lead to “higher qual- Lean, Get Smart, and Emerge from the Downturn President Obama is expected to detail his trade policy soon in a ity, lower costs and measure the sustainability of on Top” (August, Harvard Business Press), said, major speech. products and help customers live better in the “Wal-Mart is shouting. This is a little loud for some- Kirk did not rule out new trade deals, but he stressed that the 21st century.” Measuring the sustainability of a thing that’s directional. It’s not like they went all the administration’s approach to trade would also have to include a re- product poses many challenges, but Wal-Mart way to an index. Still, it is a big deal.” tooling of existing models. said its research-driven approach involving uni- There will be “a lot less consumption, or we’ll “We have to do more than just pursue new trade deals.,” he said. “We versities, retailers, suppliers and nongovern- define things differently,” Winston said. “In appar- must also insist on respect for our rights in the global trading system.” ment organizations (NGOs) could accelerate and el, if you’re using a completely recyclable polyes- Most of Obama’s stance on trade has been rhetorical, with few ac- broaden this effort. ter like Patagonia uses, that’s not the same kind of tions taken during his first months in office. The administration filed Wal-Mart is asking its 100,000 global suppliers consumption.” The challenge [for suppliers] will its first World Trade Organization case against China in June over to complete a survey with questions about en- be making the distinction between investments subsidies and controls put on raw materials. A pending China safe- ergy and climate, natural resources, material ef- and costs. “Wal-Mart is not going to provide the guard case about tire imports is being closely watched for further ficiency and people and community, with specific money,” he said. “These are tight times, but some indications on how the administration will approach enforcement ef- questions on greenhouse gas emissions, location of this stuff, like retrofitting a facility with energy- forts, including on textiles and apparel. Obama must decide this sum- of factories, water use and solid waste produced. saving lighting, pays back so fast.” mer if he will impose quotas or tariffs on imported tires from China.

Bangladeshi firefighters extinguish a blaze at a Bangladesh Industry Works to Recover garment factory in the Ashulia industrial zone. By Jahir U. Ahmed DHAKA, Bangladesh — The apparel manufacturing industry here has started to heal after labor unrest, arson attacks and vandalism last month that left two workers dead and hundreds of people injured. A major apparel factory, Ha-Meem, was destroyed by fire in the suburb of Ashulia.

Ha-Meem’s customer portfolio includes major U.S. firms such as American Eagle es

Outfitters Inc., Gap Inc., J.C. Penney Co. Inc., Kohl’s Corp., Sears Holdings Corp., VF mag Asia, Target Corp., Charming Shoppes Inc. and Wal-Mart Stores Inc. Bangladesh still bears the impact of layoffs, wage cuts and the resulting vio- lence, but production has resumed and exports are getting back to normal, manu- facturers said. “We are trying to keep supplies to our buyers abroad unaffected in spite of destruc- tion of 90 percent of our production facilities that was burned down,” said Nazrul Islam, executive director of Ha-Meem Group. Ha-Meem, with annual exports of $80 million, is one of Bangladesh’s 10 major so- cially compliant woven and knit apparel manufacturers. Its dozen factories have a combined production capacity of 22 million pieces of woven garments and 3 million pieces of sweaters per year. MUNIR UZ ZAMAN/AFP/GettyPhoto by I Ha-Meem’s 8,000 production machines were destroyed, but it has assured its U.S. Commerce Minister Faruk Khan said the government is going to form a temporary and European Union buyers of uninterrupted supplies. labor court for Ashulia, Tongi and a part of the Gazipur industrial area to settle dis- “We have resumed production in alternative facilities and have already engaged putes between garment industry owners and workers. 1,500 of the total 3,500 employed workers and are looking for more facilities to bring Bangladesh apparel exports have showed continuous growth in the last two de- the remaining workers into production soon,” Islam said. cades, with the U.S. taking a third of the market share and becoming the largest im- Bangladesh has about 5,000 apparel factories for export manufacturing. The facto- porting country of Bangladeshi products. ries employ almost 3 million workers — more than 1 million in knitwear units. For the year ending June 30, Bangladesh exported about $12 billion worth of ap- About 70 percent of all workers are women, mostly from poor rural families. Most parel, a 20 percent annual increase. of the factories are located in the country’s largest industrial center of Dhaka and its The nation’s apparel industry accounted for about 75 percent of the country’s ex- outskirts. The other major manufacturing center is the port city of Chittagong and its ports during 2007-’08 fiscal year, and 79 percent for the 10 months through April 30. suburbs. Dhaka’s Ashulia is most attractive to the factory owners and workers both Industry sources said the remaining two months of the year have maintained identi- for its communication links and suitable landscape. cal performance in exports. Abdus Salam Murshedy, president of the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers & “If the current improvement in the global financial crisis continues, it will be a Exporters Association, and Fazlul Hoque, president of the Bangladesh Knitwear boon for Bangladesh’s apparel makers,” said Nazrul Islam Swapan, managing direc- Manufacturers & Exporters Association, both said a level of normalcy has returned to tor of Nassa Group, which has three dozen export-oriented apparel factories. the factories and more foreign buyers are arriving with orders. “Bangladesh is going to be the second-largest apparel exporter followed by China “Importers from Japan, China and Hong Kong are planning sourcing from within next two-and-a-half years, topping Turkey as the export volume is increasing Bangladesh in larger volume,” Hoque said. rapidly,” said BKMEA president Fazul Hoque. 4 WWD, FRIDAY, JULY 17, 2009 WWD.COM Emmy Nominations Kick Off Awards Season FASHION SCOOPS NOT SO PRETTY: “She is sick.” That’s what Karey Burke, executive producer of By Marcy Medina Mischa Barton’s upcoming “The Beautiful Life,” CW series told WWD on the set of a shoot for the paper on Thursday. Barton had been scheduled for a photo shoot and LOS ANGELES — The 61st Primetime Emmy interview, together with co-stars Sara Paxton and Awards nominations announced Thursday her- Ashley Madekwe, to promote the show. “Mischa ald the early start of awards season, a signal wants very much to be a part of the piece and to those vying for red-carpet placement to be interviewed later, but she has to get well so get into gear. that she can be healthy in order to start actual Actresses such as Tina Fey, Holly production next week,” Burke said. Production for Hunter, Glenn Close and Kyra Sedgwick the show was scheduled to begin next Wednesday, again scored nominations and fashion- although a CBS spokesperson later e-mailed she oriented made-for-TV films and shows does not know when Barton will be in New York. such as “Grey Gardens,” “Coco Chanel” A rep for Barton had called WWD on and “Mad Men” also made the list. Wednesday to say she would not be able to Although the audiences for awards make the trip. Almost immediately thereafter, shows have been declining, CBS will heavily rumors started swirling on the Internet. promote its Emmys broadcast, and the fash- Supposedly, on Wednesday Barton placed a call ion industry will do its part to try to satisfy to the Los Angeles Police Department, and was red-carpet watchers. Even amid an economic subsequently admitted to Cedars-Sinai Medical downturn, dressing celebrities for a photo op Center. In “The Beautiful Life,” she is set to play remains a priority for many designers. a Kate Moss-esque model who resurfaces after a Veteran nominees such as Mary-Louise mysterious absence.

Parker, Julia Louis-Dreyfus and Vanessa dd Paxton and Madekwe did arrive as scheduled u Williams have mastered the art of parading R for the WWD shoot. Though neither had spoken Mischa Barton down the press lines in glamorous gowns, but to Barton, at least Paxton was following the rumors. the lookout will be on for a breakout sartorial Scott “I read on People.com that she’s under 5150 (involuntary psychiatric hold) à la by star such as first-time nominee Rose Byrne. s Britney,” said Paxton. “I don’t know what’s going on. I hope she’s OK.” m The show will be broadcast from the a Nokia Theatre L.A. Live complex at 8 p.m. VIDEO VAMPS: Madonna evidently began filming a new music video, titled Willi

on Sept. 20. ge; “Celebrate,” during her Sticky & Sweet concert in Milan, according to sources. And a m I some of the scenes were reportedly shot during a postshow dinner hosted by the Lead Actress in a Comedy Series pop star’s pals Stefano Gabbana and Domenico Dolce at the design duo’s sleek club- Tina Fey Vanessa Williams Wire Christina Applegate, “Samantha Who?” ABC restaurant Gold on Wednesday night. Filled with gardenias and lit with strobe lights, Toni Collette, “United States Of Tara,” Showtime waiters served mojitos, “limoncello” and Champagne. Clad in a gray leopard dress, Tina Fey, “30 Rock,” NBC Mariska Madonna brought along beau Jesus Luz, while guests attending walked away with the

Julia Louis-Dreyfus, “The New Adventures of Old Christine,” CBS Hargitay rrymore by Mary-Louise Parker, “Weeds,” Showtime Ba Sarah Silverman, “The Sarah Silverman Program,” Comedy Central ichner; E

Lead Actress in a Drama Series

Glenn Close, “Damages,” FX Networks Steve y by

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Drew Barrymore, “Grey Gardens,” HBO on/ s

Jessica Lange, “Grey Gardens,” HBO rri

Shirley MacLaine, “Coco Chanel,” Lifetime Ha

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Supporting Actress in a Comedy Series Fr ; Fey by Kristin Chenoweth, “Pushing Daisies,” ABC a ell

d Domenico Dolce, Jesus Luz, Madonna and Stefano Gabbana.

Jane Krakowski, “30 Rock,” NBC r Elizabeth Perkins, “Weeds,” Showtime a to S Amy Poehler, “Saturday Night Live,” NBC a ultimate trophy: a one-off “We Love Madonna” T-shirt embellished with Swarovski Kristen Wiig, “Saturday Night Live,” NBC crystal hearts. Cameras will likely be filming more scenes today and Saturday at the

Vanessa Williams, “Ugly Betty,” ABC Don by designers’ Metropole Theater, the former cinema they now use for fashion shows and events. The new single, which won’t air before Aug. 3, is said to be a summer dance Supporting Actress in a Drama Series anthem-homage to the singer’s classic tracks. te photo Rose Byrne, “Damages,” FX a Hope Davis, “In Treatment,” HBO IT’S A DEAL: As MAC heads downtown to do fashion shows at New York’s Milk Appleg Cherry Jones, “24,” FOX t Studios, Maybelline is moving in — to the Bryant Park tents. Maybelline will be the Sandra Oh, “Grey’s Anatomy,” ABC Christina official cosmetic sponsor for IMG Fashion’s Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, confirming Dianne Wiest, “In Treatment,” HBO Applegate a July 13 report in WWD. Chandra Wilson, “Grey’s Anatomy,” ABC The cosmetics company inked a two-year deal, which will see it through the transition to Damrosch Park at Lincoln Center in September 2010 and beyond. Supporting Actress in a Miniseries or Movie This will be the first time Maybelline sponsors the New York shows, though Marcia Gay Harden, “The Courageous Heart of Irena Sendler,” CBS it has supported similar events in Berlin, Amsterdam and Moscow. As part of Jeanne Tripplehorn, “Grey Gardens,” HBO its sponsorship role, Maybelline will support several designers at the tents this Shohreh Aghdashloo, “House of Saddam,” HBO September, including Charlotte Ronson, Tracy Reese, Erin Wasson x Rvca and Michael Janet McTeer, “Into the Storm,” HBO Angel. Charlotte Willer, Maybelline’s global makeup artist, will lead the makeup teams Cicely Tyson, “Relative Stranger,” Hallmark Channel at the shows. As reported, MAC Cosmetics was the previous cosmetics industry backer of the Guest Actress in a Comedy Series fashion shows, but it is now said to be involved in developing a lead sponsorship role Jennifer Aniston, “30 Rock,” NBC for runway shows and presentations at Milk Studios during fashion week. Christine Baranski, “The Big Bang Theory,” CBS Tina Fey, “Saturday Night Live,” NBC SEX SELLS: Much is being made of

Elaine Stritch, “30 Rock,” NBC Gloria Vanderbilt’s prurient new book, PMC S/

Gena Rowlands, “Monk,” USA “Obsession: An Erotic Tale.” But at a VO

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Betty White, “My Name Is Earl,” NBC party she hosted for the author at her D Meatpacking District store Wednesday Guest Actress in a Drama Series night, Diane von Furstenberg said the hype MBER Brenda Blethyn, “Law & Order: Special Victims Unit,” NBC was not unjustified. Carol Burnett, “Law & Order: Special Victims Unit,” NBC “It’s very, very, very, very erotic,” von A hoto by Ellen Burstyn, “Law & Order: Special Victims Unit,” NBC Furstenberg said, slowly emphasizing each P Sharon Lawrence, “Grey’s Anatomy,” ABC “very.” “I was actually floored. It truly CCH Pounder, “The No. 1 Ladies’ Detective Agency,” HBO reminded me of when I was a little girl and I read ‘Story of O,’ which is a book that Costumes for a Series I adored. [‘Obsession’] is not a book for “Mad Men,” AMC guys. It’s very much of a woman’s fantasy, “The No. 1 Ladies’ Detective Agency,” HBO but it’s brilliant.” “Pushing Daisies,” ABC The designer may have been surprised “The Tudors,” Showtime by just how much sex was in the tome, but it Drew Barrymore “Ugly Betty,” ABC takes more than a little titillation to embarrass Diane von Furstenberg her. “No,” she said, “I don’t blush.” and Gloria Vanderbilt WWD, FRIDAY, JULY 17, 2009 5 WWD.COM David Chu Teams With Jack Nicklaus Bloomingdale’s Introducing By Jean Scheidnes worldwide sales of more than $250 million. Most of those sales come from key Asian markets. In-store Shops for Supima Designer and Nautica founder David Chu In Korea, for example, there are 85 freestanding Jack has launched a strategic partnership with golf legend Nicklaus stores. Only 10 percent of apparel sales By Ross Tucker Jack Nicklaus to develop the Nicklaus brands around come from the U.S. a worldwide strategy and unified creative direction. “There’s huge potential to do more in North NEW YORK — Bloomingdale’s will devote some of its floor “I spent a lifetime developing my brand,” Nicklaus America and Europe,” Chu said. space this fall to showcase not just a new brand, but a said in an interview. “We took it as far as we could The U.S. distribution is largely through golf shops, specific fiber. as a family business. Now we want to ensure it grows Dillard’s and Kohl’s. Overseas it is dominated by The high-end retailer has agreed to introduce an in- beyond my lifetime and my recognition as a golfer. We Japan, Korea and China. store shop concept exclusively featuring a collection of spent the last year identifying the right person to take “We have a brand but it doesn’t have a personal- apparel made from Supima, the brand of extra-long staple us to the next level, and that’s David.” ity,” Nicklaus said. “It’s me, but not really. In China, cotton grown in the U.S. The fiber is generically known as Building the apparel business is a top strategic pri- golf is just getting off the ground, and not many people pima cotton. ority. The master license held by Hartmarx Corp., which there know me. So we’re creating a lifestyle brand that The Bloomingdale’s flagship here on 59th Street will was recently bought out of Chapter 11 by Emerisque, needs to have an identity beyond me. It needs to have launch the concept in September near its men’s depart- expires in 2010. an identity in 50 years.” ment with a collection of T-shirts, henleys, hoodies and “I’ve been with That goal “begins other luxury basics. Following the launch at the flag- Hartmarx for over 40 with product,” Chu ship, Supima in-store shops will open in Bloomingdale’s years, and I feel awful said. “We need SoHo location here and then on to 16 stores across the about their troubles,” to create more country. Nicklaus said. “We’ll product, more Buxton Midyette, marketing director for Supima, see if a relationship relevant product, said all the items in the collection will be Supima- with Emerisque makes WwD and distribute it branded product. sense or not, and we’ll in the right plac- “It’s a first for us and it’s a first, as far as I know, for go from there.” Men’s es. It needs to have any fiber company,” said Midyette. “Instead of an ingredi- Already, a golf afi- great design, great ent brand, we’ll be a full-fledged brand.” cionado can visit a value and great qual- David Fisher, Bloomingdale’s executive vice president Nicklaus resort and play ity. There’s so much and general merchandise manager for men’s and kids, a round on a Nicklaus- new technology for said the retailer is approaching the project as a tradition- designed course with the golf industry. And al consumer product launch. The final design and layout Nicklaus clubs, while we just want a really of the in-store shop is still being worked on, but Fisher wearing Nicklaus ap- great foundation of said the presentation will emphasize the history of pima parel. However, the product that people cotton and Supima’s American roots. brand has lacked an can wear on and off “In times like this you have to think about cobranding integrated strategy for the golf course. Today, and cross-branding to offer the customer the best value design, marketing and Jack Nicklaus golf is a total lifestyle for the dollar and I think this does that,” said Fisher. merchandising that and David Chu for people.” The goal will be to expand the Supima apparel brand reflects the founder’s Chu’s passion for into from knits into more categories, including underwear value as a sports icon. The goal is for a message of ex- golf is well known in the fashion industry. His Lincs and slacks. cellence and style to be reflected in product, points of brand, sold in better department stores, is golf-in- “It’s a great opportunity to tell our story and we think sale and media. spired. The Nicklaus partnership is his newest en- we tell it best through beautiful product,” said Midyette. Over two decades, Chu built Nautica, where he deavor since parting with Tumi last year. Pima cotton in the U.S. is grown primarily in Arizona, was vice chairman, to worldwide sales of more than Chu has made an undisclosed capital investment California, New Mexico and Texas, and is significantly $1 billion when VF Corp. bought it in 2003. Now his in Nicklaus Companies, which is chaired by Nicklaus more expensive than conventional cotton. In recent firm, David Chu Management Group, will work with and majority-owned by his children and New York years, farmers in those states have opted to shift to crops

ompanies Nicklaus Companies to plan and execute a new vi- Private Bank & Trust, which invested in 2007. capable of generating higher profits, such as corn, soy- C sion for Nicklaus and the products of his Golden Bear, The bank “invested in this business to grow it, so beans and almonds. The U.S. Department of Agriculture Nicklaus and Jack Nicklaus labels, including product it’s our job to do that,” Nicklaus said. estimates than 168,700 acres of pima cotton were planted icklaus “We’re going to focus first on where we’re most N design, distribution strategy, brand management and for the 2008 crop year, a decline of 41.4 percent from the new business development. relevant,” Chu said. “There’s a lot of opportunity be- 288,100 acres planted in 2007 and the lowest acreage fig- Nicklaus is widely considered the greatest golfer cause the Jack Nicklaus name is so recognized, but ure since 2000.

andeville/ in history, having won a record 18 professional major the product and the relevance and the timing have There is little indication that conditions have im- M championships. He went on to become one of the most to be right for the consumer to give it a shot. If you proved. For the week ended July 9, the number of powerful people in the golf industry by designing re- develop a reputation for high quality, then you can re- 480-pound bales of U.S. pima sold for export stood at sorts and golf courses and growing his marketing and shape the company. Once you have a successful fash- 213,200, compared with 830,500 bales sold for export dur- licensing business, Nicklaus Marketing, which has ion business…other categories come along.” ing the same period last year. Jim photo by John Smedley Celebrates 225 Years By Louise Bartlett company’s transactional Web site, as well as in stores such as Selfridges, Harrods and Harvey Nichols in the LONDON — The looms at John Smedley’s factory in U.K.; Hervé Chapelier in Paris; Principe in Italy, and Derbyshire, England, are humming after 225 years, and the Bergdorf Goodman, Barneys New York and Paul Stuart high-end knitwear company has big plans for the future. in the U.S. The men’s and women’s knitwear firm, which first Andrew Caughey, John Smedley’s managing director, created long johns, plans to launch a line of technologi- said the recession offers opportunities for the brand, and cally advanced, extremely fine woolen sweaters and in- the weaker pound will help it to develop new markets. crease its presence in the U.S. over the next few months. “In the U.S., we are currently establishing the right It also will unveil a new logo and decor for its seven infrastructure so that we can be more effective market- John Smedley stores worldwide — six of which are run by distributors ing the brand and increase the level of support for our workers in 1902. in Japan, Taiwan and South Korea. retailers,” said Caughey, whose newly ap- Founded at the dawn of the industrial pointed U.S. team will be working directly revolution — and still owned by 50 members with key buyers to build relationships and The label is proud of its northern roots and heritage, of the Smedley family, forming part of its reestablish the brand’s credentials. judging by the new store design, recently unveiled at seventh generation since the label began — Marcus Ratliff, the company’s U.S. con- the John Smedley Mayfair flagship in central London. the company produces branded collections, sultant based in Norwich, Vt., said he want- The design incorporates natural materials sourced in as well as knitwear for labels including ed to create fewer obstacles for stores and Derbyshire, such as slate, stone and oak. Comme des Garçons, Vivienne Westwood, make the buying process simpler. He also “We have drawn many of the design features from the Paul Smith and Margaret Howell. plans to reduce minimum order require- original John Smedley site at Lea mills with the soft col- The brand, which produces about ments and swap stock that doesn’t sell in ors of Derbyshire: greens, browns and chalky whites,” 500,000 garments a year, is renowned for order to reduce the risk to retailers. said Caughey. “Now that the London store is relaunched, its classic V-neck, round-neck and roll- The label, which has a turnover of 15.5 we will establish a common look and feel to our John neck sweaters in bright colors such as daf- million pounds, or $25.1 million, and 440 Smedley branded stores throughout the world.” fodil, tomato juice and aquamarine. employees, believes in the old and new The label also plans to reintroduce its jaybird logo, a For spring, its women’s collection fea- working together. At the factory, 21st-century mark of quality first used in 1784. The jaybird is a spe- tures sweater dresses and long cardigans, machines sit alongside a collar-knitting ma- cies abundant in Derbyshire. A style from with prints inspired by the Bauhaus design chine from the Fifties because management The brand is clearly proud of its staying power, hav- John Smedley. movement, while its men’s collection, which believes the modern models aren’t as good. ing survived multiple recessions and remaining in Lea highlights geek-chic looks, is as popular Innovation, however, remains of para- Valley while all of its competitors have moved on. with the younger fashion-forward set as it is with the mount importance. John Smedley’s new line of woolen Margaret Howell, who has been working at John more traditional customer. sweaters, with fibers measuring 13.5 microns, finer than Smedley for 30 years, said the company is committed to Wholesale prices range from 5 pounds, or $17 at cur- most cashmere, retain the benefits of both materials — its product. “They don’t let anything out that is not up rent exchange, for a pair of merino wool socks to 95 the durability of wool and softness of cashmere — will to their standards. It’s difficult maintaining those stan- pounds, or $240, for a cashmere knitted sweater. hit stores in September and retail at about 500 pounds, dards over 225 years, as it requires constant monitoring. The collection is available in 52 countries via the or $818. It’s something that comes from the heart.” 6 WWD, FRIDAY, JULY 17, 2009 The Beauty Report Prada’s Newest Muse: L’Eau Ambrée Bulgari’s Rhapsody in Blue By Julie Naughton ROME — In a Dolce Vita-style celebra- scents from the past. Cavallier said an tion for its 125th anniversary, replete initial two months of work on the scent Prada is counting on a new interpretation of amber to deliver big with a jewelry retrospective exhibi- were abandoned after he saw a mock-up impact for its global fragrance business this fall. tion opening and party in a nearly of the fragrance’s bottle design and color. That’s when the brand will add L’Eau Ambrée, a new women’s scent, to its Classic 2000-year-old castle, Bulgari con- “It was special,” explained Cavallier. “It range. And according to industry sources, the fragrance could do as much as $140 mil- cluded its recent festivities here with is a sophisticated and intense blue with lion globally in its first year on counter. its latest women’s fragrance launch, a touch of gray in it, which inspired me “This scent embodies Prada’s fragrance values: quality fragrances with special ingre- Bulgari Blu Eau de Parfum II. to use iris,” he added. dients, based in the tradition of fine perfumery,” said Jose Manuel Albesa, chief brand The scent was officially unveiled at Cavallier sourced a Florentine iris officer for Puig Beauty and Fashion Group, which holds the Prada fragrance license. a lunch in La Posta Vecchia, a home priced at 100,000 euros per kilo for “It balances classic influences with modern tones; the amber is stripped of its classic built in 1640 on the remains of an an- the scent. “It’s not really powdery, but context and elevated by may rose. We believe this scent could reach number one in the cient Roman city. something very natural — and you can Prada portfolio.” Building on the Bulgari Blu fra- smell that in the scent.” Iris, together Amber has his- grance story, which began nine years with Haitian vetiver and patchouli, torically done well ago with Bulgari Blu, Bulgari Blu make up what Cavallier described as for the fragrance Eau de Parfum II is the 17th scent “flowery” heart notes of Bulgari Blu house. The ingredi- for the brand. Eau de Parfum II. They are book-end- ent was a key note Francesco Trapani, Bulgari’s chief ed with “crispy” top notes of violet, in Prada’s best- executive officer, said in an interview star anise, licorice and mandarin, and selling first scent, at his offices here he felt very confi- a bottom accord of three amber notes launched in fall dent about the launch. “I think we have blended with benzoin, ambergris, cis- 2004, and Prada a winner in our hands,” Trapani said. tus flower and musk. has also introduced “We expect this scent to be our most “We tried to translate the Bulgari three previous am- successful fragrance launch ever.” Blu concept in terms of smell, the idea ber-tinged scents in its Classic range: Amber, Amber We expect this scent to be our most Intense and Amber pour Homme, “successful fragrance launch ever.­ noted Didier Maine — Francesco” Trapani, Bulgari de Biran, presi- dent of Puig North America. The L’EauL’Eau AmbréeAmbrée ad.ad. Though Trapani declined to com- of making something different. It is L’Eau Ambrée, ment on sales projections, he said the transparent, with a lot of body, without c o n c o c t e d b y beauty firm expected the scent’s first- the current codes of transparency,” ex- Firmenich’s Daniela Andrier, has top notes of Sicilian citrus, a heart of may rose and year sales to surpass Bulgari’s current plained Cavallier. The perfumer also a drydown of patchouli, vanilla and opoponax. The bottle, a reinterpretation of the best-selling fragrance, Jasmin Noir. used a new type of patchouli note which classic Prada signature bottle, is done in gradated shades of gray and black with the Industry sources estimate the new involved distilling the leaves without Prada logo embossed in gold; a gold-toned plate and neck are topped by a black atom- fragrance could generate $60 million water or any other solvent. “So you are izer. Outer packaging is white, with the Prada logo done twice: one in black, which is at wholesale the first year. left with a clear delicate smell of the printed on the box, and again with a gold lamé label inserted above the printed logo. Starting in September, Bulgari Blu patchouli,” he explained. In the U.S., L’Eau Ambrée will be available in September in about 250 specialty Eau de Parfum II will roll out to 18,000 Swiss design agency Atelie Oï cre- store doors, including Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue, Bergdorf Goodman and doors globally. ated the Blu Eau de Parfum II flacon, selected Bloomingdale’s. In 2010, the U.S. distribution will expand to include about Trapani said Bulgari Blu Eau de a clear glass rectangular shaped bot- 1,000 department and specialty store doors. The fragrance will also launch in Europe Parfum II hoped to “leverage on our tle, topped with a curved silver cap this fall, followed by the Middle East and Asia in 2010. Blu franchise that was extremely engraved with a double Bulgari logo. The collection includes three eaux de parfum: 30 ml. for $58; 50 ml. for $76; 80 successful. It continues to sell very A visual for the fragrance, which ml. for $104, and an 80-ml. deluxe rechargeable version for $117. Ancillaries include well, even though we are not invest- features Laetitia Casta captured by a body powder with puff, 3.5 oz. for $62; a hydrating body lotion, 6.75 oz. for $50; a ing in it.” He added Bulgari Blu Eau photographers Mert Alas and Marcus 6.75-oz. shower gel for $44, and a 6.75-oz. body cream, $62. de Parfum II had a larger target com- Piggott in Miami, shows the model The brand’s striking advertising visual, shot by Steven Meisel, is intended to repre- pared with Jasmin Noir, which was adorned in Bulgari’s Sassi necklace, sent ancient bas-reliefs, also an inspiration for Prada’s spring-summer ready-to-wear launched last year. made up of over 3,000 carats of blue ad campaign, said Albesa. A two-page version shows four models, a single page has “I have to say it’s been a great suc- topazes, crystals, and blue sapphires. three; in each, the silver-coated women are pushing and pulling each other in a seem- cess but anyhow certainly it is a very Bulgari Blu Eau de Parfum II will ingly dreamy state. expensive fragrance for a rich woman be available in two sizes, $68 for a 1. “Miuccia wanted to focus on the beauty of the fragrance with a modern interpreta- and not very young, it has a more ma- oz. bottle and $88 for a 2.5 oz size. A tion of the muses,” said Albesa. “This image is an impactful statement which shows a ture positioning,” said Trapani. bath and shower gel, at $39, and a body playful approach.” The nose behind Bulgari Blu Eau lotion, at $44, will accompany Bulgari In the U.S., ads will begin running in October fashion, beauty and lifestyle maga- de Parfum II, Jacques Cavallier from Blu Eau de Parfum II at launch. zines. Both print and TV ads are planned for European markets. Firmenich, created five other Bulgari — Stephanie Epiro

Now that Inverse is set for launch, Minogue is rar- ing for more — fragrances, and perhaps, in time, color Kylie Minogue to Launch Men’s Scent cosmetics, she said. “Beauty is a very intriguing and exciting industry, and I almost have to pinch myself Kylie Minogue is quite fond of the guys in rates. The bottle, designed by Denis Assor, is a rectan- that I am part of it,” she said. “I spend half my life in her life — and the Australian singer plans to show her gular glass flacon with a metal top. airports, and I look at perfume fragrances and beauty appreciation with her first fragrance for men, which While executives declined to discuss sales projections, products in a completely different way now.” She is will launch in September. industry sources estimated Inverse could do about $10 currently at work on her next women’s fragrance. Any Called Inverse for Men, the limited edition scent million at retail. hints? Mormoris shakes his head, but Minogue teas- is “for the men in my life, who as you know are com- Despite a challenging sales environment, Mormoris es, “Our tradition is that we always drink plex, colorful characters,” Minogue said with a laugh is optimistic about Inverse’s chances Champagne.” As far as color cosmetics during a recent interview at Cipriani 42nd Street in in the marketplace. “Saleswise, the go, Minogue would like to create an all- Manhattan. “I had so many men asking, ‘When are you Kylie Minogue house of fragrances in-one face palette for women on the go doing one for men?’ that I decided to do one.” is number 12 in Europe, which is — until then, she said, she’s wearing This is Minogue’s sixth fragrance in the three years. Her incredible seeing that we launched Shu Uemura products. first, Darling, was released in September 2006 and, accord- four years ago,” said Mormoris. “We And despite being globally known, ing to industry sources, the Minogue fragrance franchise broke the top 15 amid formidable the Melbourne-bred star doesn’t take generates sales of more than $100 million at retail globally. competitors, so there is real cred- her lavish perks for granted. One of “It’s clear from a business standpoint we took a risk, ibility in the fragrance market. We Minogue’s favorite parts of fame? because we’re not seeing a lot of female celebrities cre- gain market share with everything Clothing — and lots of it. ating fragrances for men,” said Steve Mormoris, senior we launch.” “Couture — there is nothing quite vice president of global marketing for Coty Beauty. “But Advertising, shot by William Baker like it and I am very fortunate to in the case of Kylie Minogue, she has such a huge fan — Minogue’s stylist and creative be able to do things like that,” said base of men and women — and now many women use director — features Minogue with Minogue. “I come from nowhere. I men’s fragrances, so it made sense.” Spanish model Andrés Velencoso come from the suburbs. I used to be The Inverse juice, an ambery oriental which Minogue Segura. The black-and-white visual Inverse by Kylie Minogue. on the machine buying scraps from developed with Givaudan’s Christophe Raynaud, has top depicts Minogue leaning between two the market. And then to be able to notes of frozen lavender, warm spices and blood man- men — and on second glance, it becomes apparent the be in this world where I work with the world’s best de- darin; a heart of benzoin, nutmeg, tonka beans and he- men are one and the same; Segura in a black suit and signers and have couture made — I’m in heaven.” To liotrope, and a drydown of labdanum resin, patchouli bare-chested. fund those couture purchases, Minogue is in the midst leaves, skin musk, condensed milk and atlas cedarwood. Inverse for Men will be available in selective dis- of preparing for her first U.S. tour, which kicks off Sept. One size, a 50-ml. eau de toilette, will be offered. It tribution in Australia, the United Kingdom, the 30 in San Francisco. will retail for 30 euros, or $42.38 at current exchange Netherlands and Germany. — J.N. and Pete Born WWD, FRIDAY, JULY 17, 2009 7

The Beauty Report WWD.COM Origins Bridges a Skin Care Divide By Pete Born brands. Greene, who worked with Lauder when she headed marketing at Clinique, said, “I admire what she has focused on and done it with a great financial sense.” Origins has a new vibe. Although Origins is sometimes thought of as a lifestyle-oriented bath and body Nearly two decades after its launch, the division of the Estée Lauder Cos. Inc. is brand, the majority of its business is in facial skin. Lauder noted the brand always reasserting its early-Nineties identity as a high-performance, naturally based, eco- has been anchored in beauty — skin care, color and aromatherapy. “But we had a lot logically friendly brand. In-store merchandising units are being reorganized to make of media moments in the past where some of our body products got center stage, so shopping easier and more pleasurable. More importantly, since the arrival of Jane people started to associate us with body. Body is absolutely a nice part of our busi- Lauder as senior vice president and general manager a year ago, Origins has found ness,” she said pointing to A Perfect World, Checks and Balances and the top-selling a new groove for its product advertising. One of the challenges faced by the skin care cleanser. “But it’s not the majority.” industry in general involves convincing consumers that natural products are every This was reinforced by polling results following the financial meltdown last fall. bit as effective as laboratory formulations. The new slogan for Origins is “Powered “We did a survey asking what’s the most important thing. [Consumers] said high- by Nature, Proven by Science.” performance antiaging facial skin care,” Lauder noted, adding: “That is what we Print ads often feature a photo of a plant decorating a have been focusing on.” product combined with hard-ball claims of performance. This fall’s primary launch has been Brighter by For instance, January’s launch of Youthtopia, a A Youthtopia ad Nature, which Origins touts as “nature’s alternative to wrinkle-fighting, firming and lifting serum, with claims. lasers.” It is designed to even out skin tones and lessen was trumpeted by advertising that pro- dark spots. claimed: “73 percent saw younger The big launch slated for late December, early looking skin” and “75 percent agreed January is called Starting Over, a $45 antiwrinkle mois- their skin felt firmer.” turizer Origins bills as “an alternative to needles.” Already, the new approach has The launch of Youthtopia, launched in December, struck a chord at retail. “It is ab- Jane marked the first time the company used before-and- solutely a smart way to do it,” said Lauder after photos. Apparently, it worked. The company does Muriel Gonzalez, executive vice not break out sales results, but industry sources indi- president and general merchandise cate that after only six months, Youthtopia has become manager of cosmetics, fragranc- a $17 million franchise. es and shoes at Macy’s Inc. “The Gonzalez at Macy’s said, “I have been encouraged by aesthetic they have chosen is very the consumer reaction. We have had a good response compelling and very, very appealing. to the new merchandising environment and a good re- Customers really want to see perfor- sponse to the new products.” mance. [Origins] has hit a sweet spot.” Sources also estimate Origins’ annual wholesale vol- Gonzalez also said Macy’s installed the ume at $200 million, a figure that has been roughly flat new Origins merchandising approach in a for the last few years. The brand, according to sources, shop in the Pentagon City branch near Washington. “The has set its sights on achieving a compounded 9 percent customers have really responded to it,” Gonzalez said, growth over the next three years. That drive will be “and we plan on putting it into other stores.” aided by plans to enter Beijing and Shanghai depart- Lauder spent the last year studying the dynamics of ment stores in March. the brand and getting to know the customer, an effort Origins was conceived during the heyday of The that was given impetus by Estée Lauder’s new chief ex- Body Shop in the late Eighties and burst onto the scene ecutive officer, Fabrizio Freda, who stressed the need to in 1990, becoming an immediate sensation and quickly understand the customer and apply Lauder’s strengths gaining a voice of authority as a nature-driven, contem- — “gut, imagination and innovation” — to what it has porary lifestyle beauty brand for the New Age. learned about consumers to “capture their imagination” As Lauder pointed out, what followed was an upsurge in a way that delivers what they asked for, Lauder said. The December launch: of nature-oriented or youth-centric competitors, running As a result, the merchandising in Origins’ retail shops Starting Over. the gamut from Kiehl’s Since 1851, Jurlique and Carol’s was rethought. In the new pilot, products are presented Daughter to L’Occitane, C.O. Bigelow, Aveda and Korres according to skin care concerns, such as redness, rather in the prestige market, as well as The Body Shop, Burt’s than by product category or franchise, like the Perfect Bees, Aveeno, Nature’s Gate and lately Yes to Carrots World subbrand. in mass distribution. Perhaps as a result, Origins’ mes- Origins tested the concept in a couple stores, like sage seemed muffled over the years, despite directional the shop at 84th and Broadway in Manhattan. From initiatives such as the Dr. Andrew Weil line and Origins February to May, the test store outperformed by 8 per- Organics, billed as the first prestige beauty brand certi- cent the other New York outlets in sales of the key skin fied to USDA standards. Some critics speculate the focus care category and for the brand as a whole, Lauder said, of top management shifted, resulting in a meandering adding that customers seemed to feel more comfortable brand identity. Other industry experts theorized Origins’ with the new setup and spent more time there. overall image did not stay as sharply innovative and edgy Plans call for starting to roll out the new merchandis- as its products, a critical point in the image-obsessed ing concept to Origins’ list of 130 retail stores and 400 youth market. Still others argue the new entries made department store doors in the U.S. Origins look like yesterday’s revolution. The new tag line grew out of consumer research and Lauder has a plausible explanation. “More and more became an effort to “take Origins out of the clutter of so people entered the environment,” she said, and the many of these so-called natural brands or lifestyle brands room filled with noisy, boisterous competitors. “It’s hard and [give] it its place in the world, or [be] a green brand to shout loudly when everyone else is shouting,” she with the clinical results of laboratory formulas,” Lauder said. “We have to reassert our position, let us be clear said, adding her competition is polarized. The natural what we stand for.” brands don’t talk clinical performance, and the tradition- Wall Street seems to have agreed. “Origins has a al laboratory labels stick to the statistics. This left a gap. definite significance and relevance,” said Piper Jaffray

“You see the tree,” Lauder said, referring to the centeno talaya quino; lauder by analyst Neely Tamminga. Although, she added, Origins’ Origins symbol, “and you know it is from nature. But we A association with Dr. Andrew Weil may have boxed the said, ‘Powered by Nature, Proven by Science’ is really brand into an older consumer crowd. Referring to who we are and who we want to be.” Origins’ deepening focus on antiaging, Tamminga posed Research revealed Origins’ target consumer ranks the question, “Is it a mistake to be both natural and per- her priorities, or what Lauder calls “communication formance focused — are they targeting the right demo- hierarchies.” Performance and natural formulation are graphics?” As the principal naturally positioned brand most important, followed by support of the environment, within traditional department stores, “there’s an oppor- which Origins also does. tunity to capture the up-and-coming Generation Y, as Green comes in shades. Women may drive a hybrid John over photo by starting they age and their skin care needs become top of mind,” and recycle but not all the food they buy is organic. “A lot Tamminga said. people maintain a balance based on what’s performance and what’s really important Asked about occasional speculation that Lauder might divest Origins, Lauder in- to be organic and natural. When we talk to our consumers, they say, ‘I want it to be dicated the current plan has a three-year horizon and she said, “Origins plays a very the highest performance but with using natural ingredients.’” unique position within the portfolio and I think that we have a lot of very strong sup- So Origins sometimes uses combinations of natural and organic ingredients, Lauder port behind the brand. Everyone from Fabrizio [Freda] to [chairman] William [Lauder] said, noting the company spent the last two years making products adhere to a purity to [chairman emeritus] Leonard [Lauder] are very invested and spent a lot of time statement that forbids use of parabens, phthalates and animal ingredients. “For con- with us. But I think one of the challenges they give to us is, if naturals are going so fast, sumers, that’s the most important part. For them, organic and natural mean safety.” how are you going to grow faster, because there is a bigger opportunity.” Quoting more research, Lauder said the “sweet spot” of Origins’ customer base According to industry sources, the global natural beauty market is expected to is between the ages of 30 and 50 with the heart of it in the mid-to-late 30s and early grow 9 percent to $2 billion by 2011 and the antiaging skin care category is projected 40s. “You get this twentysomething-year-old who’s kind of too old to be part of the to rise by 5 percent to $2.7 billion by the same year. recycling generation. Then you have the people who are 30 and above who may be Connie Maneaty, analyst at BMO Capital Markets, said, “When I look at the Lauder starting to have children and they are much more conscious of the labels.” portfolio, [Origins] sure seems to belong. I’d be really surprised [if Lauder sold it].” Lauder’s year of effort has been noticed within the halls of the parent company. However, she suggested Lauder stabilize the brand’s U.S. business before charging “[Jane Lauder] has always been very good at finding a gap in the market and filling ahead with its international ambitions. it,” observed Lynne Greene, global brand president of the Clinique, Origins and Ojon — With contributions from Molly Prior 8 WWD, FRIDAY, JULY 17, 2009 The Beauty Report

The new Natural Acne Less Is More at Uni.K.Wax Solutions line from By Andrea Nagel So, Grupenmager set out to create a waxing Burt’s Bees. emporium that met all of her needs. The must- People looking for a more personal haves: The waxing process would need to be touch when ridding their body of unwanted fast enough to service about four customers an hair may find some relief in Uni.K.Wax Center, hour per treatment room, it must be hygienic a waxing chain designed around offering an and it should be affordable to everyone. alternative waxing journey. Grupenmager said she and several chem- For starters, Uni.K.Wax only offers waxing ists formulated a wax that, when applied, is services: There’s no tweezing or threading op- about 98.6 degrees and is “very elastic, like tions, no mani-pedi stations, no massages and peanut butter, which remains elastic up until no hairstyling sessions. Also, the wax used the time it is removed so it doesn’t get hard,” there is made in a lab on premises, complete which is why many other waxes hurt, she ex- with a window, so customers can see how the plained. Formulas are natural and use mainly wax is made. And, unlike other value-priced beeswax and pine tree ingredients, she said, beauty spots, appointments are highly recom- meaning they do not contain chemicals, paraf- mended (though walk-ins are welcome) since fins or coloring agents. The wax requires no each Uni.K.Wax location averages about 200 to paper strips. 300 customers a day. Aestheticians at Uni.K.Wax are trained on But what stands out most about Uni.K.Wax, how to remove hair with Grupenmager’s wax, aside from its Boot Camp approach to waxing, as it is different from others. is that each client gets a can of its green-hued, “We train how to use the wax but also how pine-scented wax. Any leftovers are discard- the customer should be positioned when the ed. That way, each client feels as if the wax treatment is being performed to make the sys- has been specially designed for her. While tem fast,” said Grupenmager. spread of infection by using the same wax can The first center opened in 1993 in South throughout the day on different customers Beach, a first of its kind, she said. There are is remote, (Dr. Neal Schultz, a cosmetic der- now two other locations, which she oper- matologist and host of DermTV, said bacteria ates with her daughters, Romina and Vanesa needs water to flourish, and wax doesn’t con- Szperling, in North Miami and South Miami. tain water) its practice carries with it a certain There are also 19 franchised centers “yuck” factor. throughout Florida and California that oper- Acne: Burt’s Latest Bull’s-eye ate under UKW Franchising Co. Franchisees pay about Burt’s Bees is out to tackle blemishes with a new $200,000 to $300,000, which natural acne line that the firm promises is as effective as products includes the franchise fee, using chemicals. construction and furniture, “When people talk about natural products not working as well telephone and computer sys- [as other products] we come out with things that are always as ef- tems, initial inventory, insur- ficacious,” said Mike Indursky, Burt’s Bees chief operating officer. ance, grand opening advertis- Burt’s Bees is owned by Clorox Co. ing and signage, and money The new acne range, Natural Acne Solutions, includes four prod- for the first three months of ucts and starts with the premise that the main ingredient used in operation. The North Miami many acne treatments is salicylic acid. Burt’s Bees, however, uses center serves as a model for the natural form of salicylic acid, from the willow tree. the franchises, which mea- Willow bark extract, in its natural form, is known to be rich in sures 1,500 square feet and tannins and for fighting off pathogens, said Indursky. “It has been has a lab with a window so reported to have analgesic properties and anti-inflammatory prop- customers can watch the erties. It’s incredibly powerful when you get it from its source.” team create the wax. The line, appearing now on shelves, includes a Purifying Gel Stores average between Cleanser, Pore Refining Scrub, Daily Moisturizing Lotion and a $700,000 and $1.5 million in Targeted Spot Treatment. annual sales, depending on While the line will target 18- to 24-year-olds — the demographic erickson kyle by location, said Grupenmager. with the highest occurrence of acne — Indursky said the range has

photo Some special services are been packaged and formulated for anyone with acne. Noemi Grupenmager and Ozzie Grupenmager also offered at Uni.K.Wax, Sales of acne products reached $371.8 million for the latest including a bikini touch-up 52-week period ended June 16, an increase of 1.2 percent, in the “We want to ensure every customer feels like wax, which costs about half the price of an ac- food, drug, mass and natural channels, Burt’s Bees said. Sales do it is the very first,” said Ozzie Grupenmager, a tual wax (prices start at $15 for a bikini line not include Whole Foods and Wal-Mart data. co-owner of Uni.K.Wax’s Manhattan location and go to $73 for under arms) and can be ad- Natural Acne Solutions will be launching into more than 20,000 on 553 Third Avenue, and brother of the firm’s ministered as soon as two weeks after an ini- doors this fall. Industry sources expect it could generate as much as founder, Noemi Grupenmager. tial wax. (The usual wait time between waxing $20 million in first year sales. Noemi Grupenmager was bent on changing is three to five weeks.) Prices are the same at The line was in formulations for about two years, said Indursky. the waxing paradigm in the early Nineties when all stores, regardless of location. “The key for us is that you need to have instant results. This is a she became fed up with the waxing services she Keeping up with trends may help Uni.K.Wax very emotional category. [Women] define how they look by how their was receiving in her hometown of Miami. stay competitive against more luxury-type face and hair looks,” he said. “Hair removal in the Eighties and Nineties beauty emporiums: Centers offer Celebrity The line also meets all over-the-counter regulations set for an acne was very expensive and the system with the Brow, where a customer can choose from a cat- formulation and also bears the Natural Product Association seal. [paper] strips was painful,” said Grupenmager, alogue of celebrity eyebrow shapes, such as a Natural Acne Solutions will be supported by a print media cam- who added the treatments she received were high arch, à la Angelina Jolie, or a fuller brow, paign, which kicks off in September in beauty and health magazines. also time consuming and not made for those as worn by Brooke Shields. Aestheticians use All items in the line will be priced at $9.99 except for the moistur- with sensitive skin in mind. “I did not think specially designed stencils to get the right izer, which will retail for $17.99. they were expert.” brow arch. Celebrity Brow costs $25. — A.N. SNIPPETS IN THE COURTROOM: A hearing is set for Sept. 3 and a trial L’Oréal’s distribution subsidiary, has been with L’Oréal since shampoo and shave gel all in one bottle (8.4 oz., ranging in is expected toward year-end in the case pitting Françoise 2000 in various sales, marketing, product development and price from $4.49 to $5.99 depending on the retail outlet). Bettencourt Meyers, the granddaughter of L’Oréal’s founder, distribution roles. As general manager, he will be responsible Also Pert Plus for Men has introduced its own 3-in-1 product, against photographer François-Marie Banier. It is the latest for strengthening the brand’s development within the which combines shampoo, conditioner and body wash (12 oz. twist in an ongoing saga, which began in December 2007, firm’s distribution network and building connections with for roughly $5). Could 4-in-1 be that far down the road? when Bettencourt Meyers lodged a complaint in the public hairdressers. “His diverse background and career successes prosecutor’s office of Nanterre, France, for “exploitation of in brand development, sales and distribution have prepared L’OREAL TAPS DEL CASTILLO: Starting this fall, L’Oréal will begin weakness.” This followed her mother Liliane Bettencourt him well for this exciting new opportunity,” said Pat Parenty, running TV and print ads featuring its new spokeswoman, giving Banier gifts of almost 1 billion euros, or $1.4 billion president, U.S. Brands Professional Products Division at Mexican actress Kate del Castillo. Del Castillo has appeared at current exchange, in the form of financial investments and L’Oréal. Walsh replaces Francesca Raminella, who left the in numerous productions, including the film “Under the Same artwork. Bettencourt Meyer’s lawyer Olivier Metzner has begun firm earlier this year. Moon,” the play “Blackbird,” and is currently featured in the proceedings in Nanterre’s criminal court. Showtime TV show “Weeds.” Del Castillo will be the new face ALL-IN-ONE: A desire for simplicity has helped usher in for Excellence hair color. “With her luminous beauty, inner NEW MAN BEHIND MATRIX: Colin Walsh has been named the grooming products that offer multiple benefits in one strength and kind spirit, Kate makes a wonderful addition to new vice president and general manager of Matrix U.S., formulation — think shampoo and conditioner in the same the L’Oréal Paris brand and embodies the ‘Because I’m Worth effective July 20. Walsh, most recently vice president of bottle. Now, 3-in-1 products are becoming all the rage among It’ philosophy,” said Karen T. Fondu, president of the L’Oréal Marketing and Education for Maly’s West/Saloncentric, men: Nivea for Men has introduced Active 3, a body wash, Paris division of L’Oréal USA. WWD, FRIDAY, JULY 17, 2009 9

The Beauty Report WWD.COM

Lancôme spokesmodel Apple Bottoms Readies First Fragrance Elettra Wiedemann NEW YORK — Coty Inc., Elizabeth Arden Inc., Parlux and Chris Fragrances Inc., The Estée Lauder Cos. Inc. and Unilever Apple Bottoms by Nelly Benz. are frequently associated with celebrity scents. But another fragrance marketer, Romane Fragrances, recently earned its star status when Apple Bottoms selected the firm for its foray into fragrance with Apple Bottoms by Nelly. As reported in April by WWD, the scent ships in September to Macy’s Inc. and The Bon-Ton Stores Inc. with Nelly, the multiplatinum recording artist, scheduled to make appearances to build awareness of the fragrance, his apparel and a new album. Apple Bottoms by Nelly was in- spired by Nelly’s apparel line, known for catering to trend- setting women of all shapes and sizes. “This fragrance is designed to be the perfect complement to the lifestyle of the Apple Bottoms woman,” said Nelly in a statement. A 3.4-oz. eau de parfum will retail for $58, a 1.7-oz. for $48 and a body lotion and body wash for $22 and $20, re- spectively. Gifts with purchase and holiday gift sets will also be available. The fragrance is one of a handful of stars set to launch for the upcoming holiday. The package features gold chain images and a python print. The bottle exhibits feminine Benz and Lancôme curves and a gold apple medallion. “We really wanted to tie in with the brand’s look in ap- parel,” said MarieAnna Ferdinand, vice presi- dent of product development at Romane. She critical To Launch Lipstick said the fragrance is intended to evoke the After a brief one-year hiatus, same “fabulous” feeling a woman gets about by mass “We chose Romane for their [the execu- Lancôme is bringing back its popular Pout-à- herself in Apple Bottoms jeans. Faye Brookman tives’] experience, their innovative market- Porter series. This time around, the French Romane earned the nod to get the Apple ing and most importantly, their understand- beauty brand has teamed with Chris Benz Bottoms license thanks to its experience in the spe- ing that the fragrance itself has to be fantastic,” to create a limited edition lipstick that will cialty and independent segment of the retail business, said an executive at Apple Bottoms. be unveiled — and officially named — at the as well as with hip, teen retailers. The company’s roots in Ferdinand said, “Our companies are definitely designer’s spring show in September. Much the specialty arena date back to 1969 when founder Bernie like-minded,” to the delight of Benz’s bright-young-things Dworin saw a need for proprietary scents for men’s stores. The Apple Bottoms fragrance is a mixture of citrus, pink fan base, Lancôme held a naming contest In recent years, that expertise has translated into mar- peony, rose and coconut as well as sandalwood, amber, musk for the lipstick on the designer’s Facebook keting fragrances to teens via myriad merchants catering and a subtle hint of apple. Like many celebrities, Nelly had fan page earlier this month, encouraging to that demographic. Romane continues to market its own input on the final concoction. Benz enthusiasts to title the shade that will managed brands, private label and licensed scents to re- Romane believes it will attract not only Nelly and Apple be worn by the models who bound down his tailers including Charlotte Russe, The Buckle and Rue 21. Bottoms fans, but also consumers who are just intrigued by runway come September. Other licenses include St. John Knits and Anchorman’s Sex the fragrance and packaging. “This isn’t really only a celeb- “He was looking for something beautiful, Panther. The company sells more than 40 of its own brands rity fragrance; it is a brand of its own,” said Ferdinand. fresh and airy,” said David Booth, assistant through independent retailers, westernwear stores and on- Apple Bottoms by Nelly represents what Romane hopes will vice president of marketing for the lip cate- line. The company is now run by Monte Henige, who sharp- be even further developments in celebrity scents. The execu- gory at Lancôme. “The lipstick will serve as ened his business acumen in the finance world. tive added, “We are always looking for new opportunities.” the best backdrop and complement to his collection.” Lancôme executives remained mum on color, but industry insiders hinted at coral as the likely hue for the new prod- uct. Benz, who has final creative control of the lip shade and texture, will choose the Portico Sees Opening in Bath Sector winning name from the more than 1,000 entrees that were submitted via the social By Molly Prior president of Bravo Port Retail Management Group, the com- networking site. Top contenders are said to pany that distributes Portico Spa. Earlier this month, the include everything from Rock with Me and During the last economic downturn, the bath and body products also launched on Dermstore.com. Farrah-licous — as tributes to the late icons door closed for Portico Bed & Bath, which filed for bank- The collection’s 11 products, priced between $7 to $26, — to names like Peach Nirvana, which pays ruptcy seven years ago. This recession, the door has swung are available in three scents — Cucumber + Grapefruit, homage to Seattle, where both Benz and open, as new owners gear up to relaunch the luxury home Blood Orange + Jasmine and Amber + Olivewood. All of the Nineties grunge band hail from. Other retailer with a bath and body collection. Portico’s products — ranging from body lotion and cream, leading choices include Benz Blush, Chris’ Portico Spa — positioned as a eco-responsible range bar soap, bath mist, body wash — are free of petrochemicals, Kisses and Park Avenue Poser. — marks the first phase of the company’s return. Portico, parabens, artificial colorants, propylene glycol, silicone, so- While the lipstick will mark the official which had a sleek outpost on Spring Street in New York dium lauryl sulfate, sodium laureth sulfate and animal test- beauty debut for the young designer, Benz City’s SoHo neighborhood as well as a handful of other ing. Hair care products are slated said the project felt like a natural exten- locations, liquidated in 2007. Together, Gregg Haft, owner for the end of the year. sion. “When you consider the most iconic of The Fayette Group, and Charles Schlang, owner of Plans call for the fall intro- fashion images of our time, the beauty Renaissance America LLC, formed Portico Acquisition adding duction of cotton bed linens, point-of-view is just often as strong as that LLC and purchased the business. Haft and Schlang, veter- towels and robes made with of the clothes themselves, so the oppor- ans in the home textiles sector, 100 percent certified organ- tunity to develop a makeup concept right serve as president and chief ex- ic cotton. Furniture, mat- alongside the collection was one I leapt at, ecutive officer, respectively. tresses and home decor naturally,” he explained. “I loved the exer- “We have always felt Portico are slated for fall 2010. cise of thinking about the color, the finish, was a highly equitable brand. The linens and textiles end and the whole experience that makeup cre- It’s a lifestyle brand and its of the business will include ates for the woman who wears it.” stores were a destination for beauty Portico Pure Luxe tailored Fewer than 2,500 lipsticks, priced under trendsetters and leading influ- up toward high-end boutiques, $30 pending the formula, will be created for encers,” said Haft. Referring to Portico Home for department limited distribution beginning in January the acquisition, he said, “It was stores and Portico Hospitality, in- at Lancôme’s five boutiques as well as a yet- a good opportunity to adopt a tended for four- and five-star ho- to-be-determined retailer. Previous Pout-à- brand, and retain the attributes tels and cruise lines, said Haft. Porter collections have sold at Nordstrom, that made it special and also The company has drafted Neiman Marcus and Bergdorf Goodman. make it more timely, particu- plans for 500-square-foot bou- The young designer joins notable Pout- larly with an uncompromising tiques within department stores, à-Porter alums Proenza Schouler, Behnaz environmental commitment.” and is currently developing Sarafpour, Peter Som and Thakoon — all As for why the pair chose to a freestanding store concept, of whom have collaborated with Lancôme herald Portico’s return with bath which will adhere to the LEED on exclusive lip shades. With names like and product products, Haft said, green building certification Proenza Pink and PS Kiss, the Pout-à-Porter “Personal care and bath go hand- system. Haft said the company series, which was started in 2006, has prov- in-hand with a textiles program.” expects to open the flagship in en a marketing coup for the French beauty Portico Spa products rolled SoHo in roughly a year. The de- giant. All four shades sold out, and were out to nine Ulta stores this partment store rollout is planned greeted with waiting lists and even bidding summer, and are slated to be for 2010, and the company esti- wars on eBay, where one of the Proenza lip- carried in 32 Ulta doors by mates Portico will reach $100 sticks sold for $122.50.

December, said Tracy Holland, john aquino photo by million in revenue by 2012. — Gillian Koenig HBABeauty Single Logos

10 WWD, friday, july 17, 2009

The HBA Report WWD.COM Men’s Marketers Make Push for Fall From established, classic fragrances to new skin care players and bath and body care marketers alike, numerous firms that market to men are making big plans for fall. Here are three of the newest initiatives, from Aramis, Molton Brown and Kyoku. Aramis’ New Spin on Its Long-standing Scents It Took a Village for Kyoku A new skin care line called Kyoku For Men, After 35 years, the Aramis fragrance expanding practice of brands launching multiple scents which was inspired by the longevity of particular vil- collection is getting a makeover this fall. or collections rather than one fragrance at a time. lagers in Japan, is making its U.S. debut this fall. The brand, which is owned by the Estée Lauder Six of the scents — Aramis 900 (1974), Devin (1977), The London-based brand comprises six products Cos. Inc., is being repackaged and, in September, JHL (1981), Tuscany Per Uomo (1984), New West for and was first launched in the U.K. at Selfridges dur- its collection of eight men’s scents that were intro- Him (1988) and Havana (1994) — will be relaunched ing the spring. It has gotten off to a quick start in the duced between 1974 and 2006 will be relaunched. in the U.S. All eight, including Aramis Life (2003) and U.K. — with sales upward of $250,000 so far accord- The new look line has been dubbed the Gentleman’s Aramis Always for Him (2006), will be relaunched in- ing to industry sources. Collection by Aramis. ternationally. The six that are slated for the U.S. mar- Kyoku founder Asim Akhtar was inspired to create The original Aramis scent, called Aramis Classic, ket are “long-standing favorites,” according to Russo. the line after travels to Japan. In particular, Akhtar which was launched in 1964, will remain unchanged. Aramis Classic continues to rank in the top 20 in visited a village two hours from Tokyo called Yuzuri The initiative is designed to appeal to Aramis’ cur- the U.S., said Espino, and number 17 globally. She Hara, which is known as the village of long life, he rent customer base, but contended that with noted, because 10 percent of the village’s population is also an attempt to re- the new look, the re- is more than 80 years old. cruit younger customers packaged scents will Akhtar, a medical doctor, attributes the villag- to the brand. be “more impactful at ers’ longevity foremost to diet, which includes bam- “The Gentleman’s point of sale.” boo shoots and starchy potatoes, he said. But he also Collection by Aramis “As inventories get pointed to high levels embraces coveted clas- tight [in stores],” added of hyaluronic acid in sics,” stated Leonard Russo, “this is a way Items villagers’ skin due to A. Lauder, chairman of platforming the col- from treatment regimes that Kyoku. emeritus of the Estée Scents from the Gentleman’s Collection by Aramis. lection.” She noted involve a range of plants, Lauder Cos. “I love the that distribution of the vegetables and concept of discovering something old that is new Gentleman’s Collection will be kept limited — about herbs. again. The Gentleman’s Collection is like a wardrobe 300 doors in the U.S. are to carry the scent. His aim was of fragrances, each one for a different day, a differ- Bergdorf Goodman is to unveil the collection to compose a ent mood. The collection has new appeal to our loyal beginning in September, and in October, selected skin care line customers and is an opportunity for new customers Bloomingdale’s, Neiman Marcus, Lord & Taylor, using the same to discover.” Saks Fifth Avenue, Dillard’s and Macy’s stores are active ingredi- The idea of using the same bottle design for each slated to get the line. ents the villag- scent is to unify the look of the collection and make the Each scent in the Gentleman’s Collection is an ers use. line more cohesive, according to executives. Labels, eau de toilette that will come in a 3.4-oz. bottle and “I asked, ‘How hn aquino

however, will remain different for each fragrance. be priced at $48. O can we mimic J BY

“We think it will give Aramis a renewed image,” While executives would not comment on sales pro- those effects in Diana Espino, vice president and general manager jections, industry sources estimate the collection could men’s skin?’” said

for the Aramis, Sean John, Lab Series Skincare for generate $25 million in first-year retail sales world- PHOTO Akhtar, whose fam- Men and Kiton brands, said of the strategy. “It will wide, with about half of that coming from the ily has been in the bring the look of the brand together.” U.S. market. private label cos- “Classics resonate and collections resonate,” said “This is a way to go back,” Russo metics manufacturing Carol Russo, senior vice president and general manager remarked, “and give Aramis a new sector for more than 30 of sales and marketing in North America for Lauder’s beginning.” years via Chicago-based Aramis and Designer Fragrances division. She cited the — Matthew W. Evans RNA Corp. “We developed a delivery sys- tem for our [Kyoku] products that encapsu- lates all the active ingredients into micro- particles,” said Akhtar. “The technology has Molton Brown Retools Men’s Offering men’s been in our lab for 20 years,” he added, “and corner we refined it and made it applicable for a In a bid to bolster its men’s business, the brand is carried in about 250 points of male grooming range.” London-based Molton Brown will introduce this fall sale in the U.S., including Neiman Marcus, The technology is designed to allow active an assortment of 23 products comprising items that Saks Fifth Avenue and Blue Mercury. ingredients like ginseng and calendula flower ex- have either been reformulated or repackaged — and As for the eight new products, a body scrub bar tracts to reach fibroblasts in the skin. The aim is to some that are altogether new. ($22 for 250 g.) will be added to Molton Brown’s Re- help rebuild the skin’s collagen structure, which is The launch, which is set for September and includes charge Black Pepper trio, the brand’s most popular susceptible to UV damage. eight new items, will involve the brand’s skin care, fra- men’s scent. Also new is Re-charge Black Pepper One of the challenges, Akhtar noted, was getting grance, bath and body and shave product categories. shave oil, $29 for 30 ml. through the thicker, more acidic skin men have as com- “Men’s is a dominant part of our business and it has Additions to the men’s skin care collection, pared with women. Akhtar also wants to get through grown over the years,” said Amy Nelson-Bennett, the which now features five items, include Deep- to men that being a little vain is OK. “Men are appre- firm’s group marketing director. “It was clean Mineral Ions Facewash ($27 for 125 ml.) and hensive in buying skin care due to a lack of knowledge a small part before men’s grooming Skin-clear Jade Face Exfoliator ($29 for 125 ml.). about it,” he said. “They have to get to a point where started taking off [in recent years].” Two items will also be added to Active Cassia: they accept the vanity of taking care of their skin.” Depending on the market, men’s Body Deodorant ($34 for 200 ml.) and Indeed, Akhtar, who called getting to this point makes up 15 to 25 percent of Molton Bodywash & Scrub ($33 for 200 ml.). an “epiphany,” named the brand Kyoku because, he Brown’s total revenues, which the The remaining new items include noted, it means “climax” in Japanese. firm expects will reach 80 million Bracing Silverbirch, an eau de The product lineup includes the SPF 15 Facial British pounds, or $131.3 million at toilette priced at $60 for 50-ml. Moisturizer, $43 for 50 ml., which features bamboo current exchange, for this year. and Cool Buchu body wash, and pea extracts, and Oil Control Lotion, which is By region, men’s makes up 15 $28 for 300 ml. also $43 for 50 ml. The Razor Repair Balm, $29 for percent of Molton Brown sales In all, the 23-item men’s 50 ml., combines aloe leaf juice and witch hazel with in the U.K., while in the U.S., it line will range in price from herbal extracts, while the Exfoliating Facial Scrub,

accounts for 17 to 18 percent of chinsee $22 to $60. $19 for 100 ml., uses volcanic ash to exfoliate and e sales. In Japan, men’s generates g The repackaging has in- Japanese rice bran to smooth and tone the skin. 25 percent of sales. volved graphic elements like Rounding out the line are Daily Face Cleanser, Molton Brown’s men’s ini- a band around each product $19 for 100 ml, with ginseng, peppermint and camel- tiative is expected to generate as well as “enriched colors,” lia seed extracts, and SPF 15 Lip Fuel, $11 for 10 ml. upward of 15 million pounds, Geor photo by said Nelson-Bennett, like dark The line is scheduled to be launched this month or $24.6 million, in first year re- New Molton Brown men’s products. greens, bronzes and browns. in eight Harvey Nichols locations in the U.K. and tail sales globally. And, with the new “The repackaging is to make it on Harrods’ Web site. In September, the line is to be men’s assortment in the U.K. market, for instance, modern and masculine,” said Nelson-Bennett. “It’s launched at Liberty in London. men’s could reach 20 percent of Molton Brown sales getting more competitive in men’s so we want to stay Initially, the U.S. launch will comprise a Web site, there in the next two years. ahead of the curve rather than follow.” kyokuformen.com. The aim is then to launch the The firm, which was acquired by Japan-based KAO In May 2010, additional men’s products will be intro- brand into upscale specialty stores. Corp. in 2005, operates 60 stores globally, including 50 duced. These items will primarily be focused on hair First-year retail sales of Kyoku could exceed in the U.K. and six in the U.S., with three in Manhattan. care and shaving accessories, Nelson-Bennett noted. $100,000 in the U.S., according to industry sources. When it comes to Molton Brown’s wholesale business, — M.W.E. — M.W.E. WWD, FRIDAY, JULY 17, 2009 11 WWD.COM MEMO PAD FULLER LIFE: After a year on the sidelines of celebrity journalism, Bonnie Fuller is back in the gossip business. She will become the new president and editor in chief of Hollywood Life, a small Web site owned by Mail.com Media Corporation. The company also owns Movieline.com and Oncars.com, and last month made a surprising purchase of Nikki Finke’s Deadline Hollywood Daily. Fuller is most known for her magazine leadership, having been editor in chief of YM, Marie Claire, Cosmopolitan, Glamour and Us Weekly. Until a year ago, she was executive vice president and chief editorial director of American Media Inc., working most closely with its celebrity weekly, Star. After departing AMI last year, she planned to launch her own brand, Bonnie Fuller Media, with “signifi cant backing,” but that never came to fruition. Instead, she commented on celebrity news regularly for Huffi ngtonpost.com, and on Twitter, opining and occasionally offering newsy tidbits. Fuller told WWD that Hollywood Life will be “very focused on female consumers 18 to 35, very much looking at the celebrities they care about.” Unlike news-driven competitors such as TMZ.com, People.com, Usmagazine.com, Wonderwall.com and others, Fuller’s Q vision for the site is to be more commentary-driven. “I found that’s what worked online is that people really want a take on news. They want an opinion on the news as well as the news itself.” And though the celebrity online world is well-populated, Fuller’s not afraid of competition and likens her new job to launching magazines into crowded fi elds. “I’ve always believed that you can make a product that [readers] absolutely have to have. And it’s MATTHEW B. CRAWFORD worked,” she said. “I wouldn’t be doing this if I didn’t feel like I A could compete.” First task: Fuller will oversee a redesign of the site By Evan Clark on your own stuff. It’s too complicated, and maybe in midfall. She will split her time between Hollywoodlife.com’s New you can’t even fi gure out how to get the cover off of York and Los Angeles offi ces, and expand its East Coast staff in the Matthew B. Crawford comes with a unique set of bona an appliance, for example. So we throw up our hands coming months. fi des to dissect the nature of work. and start to view technology as this magical thing The company is run by 30-year-old chief executive offi cer Jay From age nine to 15, he lived in a commune, where that is always handled by someone else. It’s a kind of Penske, who said hiring Fuller “radically enhances Hollywood Life’s his ability to squeeze into small places led to electrical infantilization — we come to expect less of ourselves. market opportunity and further fortifi es the company’s position as a fi x-it work. He later toiled away writing abstracts of But a lot of the mystery surrounding our devices is smoke leading participant in the entertainment space.” academic articles, got a PhD in political philosophy from and mirrors — gratuitous “features” that don’t do squat. — Stephanie D. Smith and Irin Carmon the University of Chicago and ditched a high-paying job Once you get inside an appliance, you fi nd that the basic at a Washington think tank to open Shockoe Moto, a knowledge that your grandfather had will often take you MAZEL TOV: As for that motorcycle repair shop in Richmond. pretty far in diagnosing and fi xing the problem. If you other young media mogul in His best-selling book “Shop Class as Soulcraft: An succeed, you feel like you’ve broken all the rules, and training, New York Observer Inquiry into the Value of Work” (The Penguin Press) that’s the best feeling there is. owner Jared Kushner, he’s details his travels through the dangerous world of white- now offi cially accounted collar routine and argues for work that has a greater WWD: Do you blame the fi nancial crisis on an economic for. Kushner proposed on connection with the physical world. culture where decision-makers are removed from the Wednesday night to real Crawford is thinking — and thinking hard — about consequences of their actions? estate scion Ivanka Trump what most of us devote too many daylight hours to. WWD with a multicarat cushion asked the philosopher and gearhead for his take on work M.B.C.: I do think it has a cultural and psychological FARRELL/PATRICKMCMULLAN.COM cut rock from Trump’s as it relates to the knowledge economy, the fi nancial dimension. When the daily objects of your attention are signature jewelry line. crisis and the fashion world. highly abstract fi nancial instruments that are several Trump recently completed steps removed from any concrete economic activity, it’s the conversion process to WWD: If you work at a computer easy to mistake theory for BILLY PHOTO BY Judaism and will marry should you consider your way of reality. It’s just a hazard of the Kushner under Jewish life at risk? job. When you’re dealing with doctrine. Kushner surprised physical stuff, on the other Trump with the platinum Matthew B. Crawford: Thirty hand, it usually lets you know and diamond mounting with years ago, we learned that right away if you’ve gotten her colleagues at Ivanka anything that can be put something wrong. You can Trump Fine Jewelry. The on a container ship will be get physically hurt, and this proprietary cushion cut is manufactured wherever labor tends to focus the mind. It’s aptly named for her. is cheapest. For the last 10 very hard to B.S. your way out — Sophia Chabbott years, we’ve been learning that of responsibility when things a similar logic applies to the go badly, so there is a certain Jared Kushner and MOVING ON: Forbes.com products of intellectual labor ethic of accountability that Ivanka Trump president and CEO Jim that can be delivered over a develops in the trades. Spanfeller is out after nine wire. Accountants, programs, years, reportedly due to pressure from Elevation Partners, the private architects and radiologists WWD: Fashion designers equity fi rm that bought a sizable minority stake in the company now compete with people create with their hands, but from the Forbes family. The news was fi rst reported by Dailyfi nance. overseas. But the Indians can’t their vision is carried out com Wednesday evening. In a memo to staff Thursday, Steve fi x your car, because they are by machines and factory Forbes wrote, “In the entrepreneurial spirit that Forbes has always in India. Any job that has to workers in a very regimented championed, Jim will be setting up his own media management be done in person or on-site is environment. Is there a better company.” — I.C. relatively safe from the logic of way? outsourcing. J. WALKING: The British (and Australian) invasion at The Wall M.B.C.: Being a fashion Street Journal continues, with another high-level executive from WWD: So what is it that designer seems like an the Rupert Murdoch-owned Times of London joining the paper. plumbers and electricians get amazing job. It’s concrete The new publisher of WSJ. magazine is Sophie Raptis, who was from their jobs that their white and collaborative. You have the international business group head responsible for the Times collar customers don’t? some aesthetic vision that newspaper, its Web site, and several related magazine and newspaper you bring to reality, and get properties. As title manager at Luxx, she worked closely with the M.B.C.: More important than to see it draped on the body glossy quarterly’s editor in chief, Tina Gaudoin, now the editor of WSJ. the question of whether you’re of a beautiful model. In the The outgoing publisher, Ellen Asmodeo-Giglio, is being moved working with your hands or working in an offi ce, I think, best cases, the model moves down the runway with just to vice president of sales for Weekend Edition and the Luxury is the question of whether the job involves using your the right attitude, an interpretation of your vision that sales group, overseeing consumer advertising. In an interview, Wall own judgment. If that’s what you care about, then the perhaps gives it a slightly different meaning — a new Street Journal chief revenue offi cer Michael F. Rooney declined to manual trades are worth taking a fresh look at. What revelation. specify the percentage of the paper’s advertising that falls into a plumber or electrician does can never be reduced to And then there is the garment factory worker. Not as that category, but it clearly remains a desired growth sector for just following a set of procedures, the way some white much fun. As consumers, we’re not often mindful of the the paper. “We’re still relatively new in this category, but it’s really collar jobs are. The physical circumstances in which a labor that produces the stuff we use. This is encouraged an area where we have the audience — the upscale audience tradesperson does his or her job vary too much for that. by the ideology of consumerism, which feeds a delusion that purchases lots of different consumer products, luxury and The work requires improvisation and judgment; you have of omnipotence and independence, making us oblivious otherwise, and [the Journal is] a proven performer,” Rooney said. to be adaptable. So you tend to feel fully engaged in of the ways we are dependent on others. It’s a kind of He noted that, according to the 2008 Mendelsohn Affl uent Head of what you are doing. I think that’s what we want in work. self-absorption. Household Survey, the Journal had grown its female readership year What if everyone, boys and girls, had to learn to over year by 4 percent. WWD: The kind of self-reliance you’re advocating — sew some basic stitches in order to graduate from high The Journal launched WSJ. last year, in part to leverage the being master of your own stuff, being able to change school? Not only for the sake of self-reliance, but also Journal’s high-end audience to attract luxury advertising. The market the oil in your car — is it realistic for everyone or are too for the sake of self-awareness, and social awareness. timing being rather infelicitous, the Journal suspended plans to many of us boxed in by technology? It might have more of an effect than the classes that eventually go monthly. Rooney said the next issue, September, has M.B.C.: It has defi nitely become harder to get a handle currently go by the name of “social studies.” not yet closed. — I.C. 12 WWD, friday, july 17, 2009 Industry Prepares for CIT Bankruptcy Continued from page one who collectively sell to 330,000 retailers. The firm advances sup- pliers cash for shipments and lends to small and midsize retail- ers in a variety of industries. The 101-year-old lender did not appear at press time to have made any discernible progress in what many deemed to be a long-shot bid to arrange financing. There are some hopes the profitable factoring arm that guarantees shipments to stores could be separated from the company or sold and kept afloat. Sources familiar with discussions at CIT said the firm was considering having the holding company file for Chapter 11 while some subsidiaries, such as the factoring arm, are exclud- ed from the filing. A financial executive familiar with CIT’s operations said the factoring business is set up as a separate corporation. CIT spokesman Curt Ritter declined comment. Many vendors who use CIT as a factor were clearly panicked. “I’ve had 26 calls from garment center companies since 12 p.m. yesterday,” said bankruptcy attorney Jerry Reisman, a partner at Reisman, Peirez & Reisman. “It’s going to have such a ripple effect that the government doesn’t understand. Tomorrow, if it’s payroll day, how will these manufacturers be able to obtain money for payroll?” Steven Kolb, executive director of the Council of Fashion Designers of America, said designers were concerned. “They don’t really know where to turn when the gov- ernment isn’t going to bail out CIT,” Kolb said. “There is About CIT a level of unfairness when you look at some other indus- tries that have been bailed out.” • CIT, still in its first year as a bank holding Fitch Ratings said there was a “high probability” that company, had more than $60 billion in finance CIT would file for bankruptcy soon and also cut the firm’s CIT and all of our vendor partners to solve any issues credit rating on $35 billion in debt to “C” from “BB-minus.” and leasing assets. It provides financial products that may arise.” Ultimately, it might be CIT’s own clients who sink the and advisory services, including factoring, to Although Belk Inc. said it does not have a financing company by drawing down their credit lines, in effect small and middle-market businesses. relationship with CIT, the company said: “A number of making a run on the bank and soaking up its reserves. our vendors do have relationships with CIT. However, “The company’s already tenuous liquidity position • Founded in 1908, CIT was sold to Tyco we are not in a position to speculate on how they might has been further eroded as its customer base has likely be affected.” Similarly, The Bon-Ton Stores Inc. and been drawing down on its availability credit lines,” Fitch International in 2001 and spun off as a public Dillard’s Inc. both stated that CIT is not involved in their analyst Vincent Arscott wrote in the downgrade. company the following year. revolving credit facilities. The ramifications of a failure could be both subtle and Justin Remeny, president of Remy Leather, a CIT cli- dramatic. “A lot of easy money that helped this industry for • Headquarters: 11 West 42nd Street, New York. ent, said if the bank does go under, he expects to trans- a long time is not going to be around,” said David Strasser, fer his business to a competing factoring company, men- an equity analyst with Janney Montgomery Scott. “There’s tioning Continental Business Credit, based in Woodland going to be a product that nobody’s going to expect to be • Chairman and chief executive officer: Jeffrey Peek. Hills, Calif. big…and they’re not going to be able to get it out there.” Sameer Ramani, president of the privately financed The industry hoped to dodge this bullet with an assist • President of trade finance: John Daly. sportswear vendor Contrepoint Industries, said “rescue from Washington, which gave CIT a $2.33 billion boost from orders” could start rolling in from retailers if other sup- the Troubled Assets Relief Program in December. But late pliers have trouble shipping. Wednesday, after days of negotiations with federal officials, • Factoring operations, housed in the in the trade “The fall goods are starting to be shipped in the next the New York-based lender said there was “no appreciable finance unit, had the fewest assets of CIT’s five few days, if not hours,” Ramani said. “I’m not going to likelihood of additional government support being provided businesses, but last year was the second most be a vulture and try to chase the opportunity, but I want in the near term” and that it was “evaluating alternatives.” profitable. to help all my close accounts and I’ll certainly be there The government apparently concluded the U.S. econ- when they need it.…It is what it is. Life moves on.” omy would sustain a CIT failure without damage to the Rousso Apparel Group Inc., which has been in busi- financial system. • Clients are more than 2,000 manufacturers with ness 35 years, has been using CIT Group as factors for With bankruptcy looming, more than $1.3 billion in $5 million to $1 billion in annual sales that sell the past 20 years, through the acquisitions of Republic debt coming due at the end of September and a total of to 330,000 retailers and other customers. Factors and HSBC factoring. $8 billion in unsecured debt outstanding, shares of CIT “It’s too early to tell what they’ll look like in the fu- Group Inc. fell 75 percent in trading Thursday. Shares • Seventy-three percent of finance and leasing ture,” said Victor Rousso, chief executive officer of closed at 42 cents, down $1.23, with 436 million shares Rousso. The company is under contract with CIT, and exchanged, more than 18 times their usual volume. business is in the U.S. those agreements generally run for two years. “The President, when he came into office, was clear “They sort of lock you in and you can’t get new financing,” that he would have a very high standard for what com- • Operates in more than 50 countries across 30 Rousso said. “Most of your assets are assigned to them.” panies received assistance from the federal government, industries. Marc Crossman, president and ceo of Joe’s Jeans Inc., from American taxpayers, and a lot of that had to do with was questioned about the level of his company’s expo- whether or not they could show themselves to be sustain- sure to CIT during a conference call with analysts on able in the long term,” White House deputy press secre- • About 4,995 employees and 3,490 in the U.S. Wednesday to discuss second-quarter results. tary Bill Burton told reporters on Air Force One. “We ended the quarter with about $6.8 million worth Burton declined to comment specifically on CIT, but • Converted into a bank holding company and of cash on the books, so from a working capital stand- said President Obama did not make the final decision qualified for $2.33 billion in Troubled Asset point, we’ve got plenty of time and plenty of capital to be to end talks with CIT. Burton pointed to the Treasury able to weather any storm, if there is a storm,” he said. Department, which declined to comment on CIT. Relief Program funds in December. According to the company’s quarterly filing with the Unlike the financial turmoil last fall, when the bot- Securities and Exchange Commission, as of May 31, Joe’s tom fell out of almost every sector at once, the upheav- 2008 2007 had $9.1 million of factored receivables with CIT and al at CIT hits fashion more directly. And the meltdown owes them $4.6 million. Crossman believes if CIT fails, the couldn’t come at a worse time for the lender’s middle- Net interest revenue $499.1 $821.1 company could continue operating normally for up to 30 market and mom-and-pop clients who are just about to Net income/loss -$633.1 $792 days, which he believes would be plenty of time to make start shipping fall goods. new arrangements with another factor like Wells Fargo. If the lender does go belly-up, it’s possible that vendors Some took a tough-love approach view of the situa- who shipped goods but haven’t yet received full payment Finance Type Assets Income/Loss tion. Larry Wade of Wade’s Clothing in Zanesville, Ohio, from CIT would have to wait in line with other unsecured said vendors should have foreseen the CIT crisis and left creditors to salvage what they can from the wreckage. Corporate $21 -$167 the bank. While vendors face specific problems in the realm of “I hate to see anybody fail, but as a country, we can’t factoring, retailers might have to be especially flexible in Transportation $14 $327 keep bailing people out,” Wade said. “In a way, maybe this their dealing with their vendors. Vendor $12 -$350 is a good thing because we have too much of everything “It will be very bad for the industry if CIT goes bank- Consumer $13 -$185 and it could be the time for other factors to step in.” rupt,” said Richard Baker, chairman of Lord & Taylor Trade (factoring) $6 $100 As for the Obama administration’s position on a bail- and parent Hudson’s Bay Trading Co. “Fortunately, L&T out, Tracy Mullin, president and ceo of the National has no financial exposure and a very small percentage of Retail Federation, said, “It certainly doesn’t sound like vendors who are factored by CIT.” Total $66 -$275 the people who can have an impact on CIT, at least at Vince Phelan, senior vice president and treasurer of this very moment, have indicated any interest in making Barneys New York, said, “Barneys enjoys a solid rela- All figures in millions, except assets, which are in billions. Asset and any changes to help them.…It may not be anything more tionship with CIT and fully expects that they will man- income figures are for 2008. SOURCE: Company reports. complicated than just bailout fatigue.” age through this crisis. Barneys is willing to work with CIT was not technically considered a bank until WWD, friday, july 17, 2009 13 WWD.COM

December, when it was allowed to morph into a bank holding company at the same time it received TARP funding. Unlike mainstream banks, which have had more than their Kellwood Gets an Extension share of problems, CIT’s business is not funded through depos- its for personal accounts. It depends on its ability to borrow on By Vicki M. Young of the maturity to 2014 and almost twice the inter- the open markets, something that has become practically im- est rate of the original note. possible given its “junk” debt rating and the credit crisis that Kellwood Co. has bought itself a few Sources familiar with the talks said they were not swept through Wall Street and the global economy last year. more days of breathing room. hopeful that Deutsche Bank would have a change of Along with other financial executives, Jeffrey Peek, chair- The apparel firm has reached an agreement to heart in its stance of nonsupport of the exchange offer. man and ceo of CIT, has been criticized for expanding into the extend the maturity date of $140 million in notes Earlier this week, other sources said there was subprime mortgage business. until Friday at midnight. A deadline of midnight no reason for the bank to change its stance be- Across the financial sector, bets on less-than-creditworthy on Wednesday passed without a resolution. cause it has credit insurance to cover any losses mortgages began to unravel in the summer of 2007 and eventu- In addition, the company reached a forbearance and therefore would not lose its investment should ally forced Wall Street to cede some control to Washington. For agreement with its lender. The agreement allows Kellwood be forced to file for bankruptcy. some, the luxe life also had to be reinvented. for the financing to stay in place so that a default Knowing it would recoup its loss, pushing for a Sources said the situation at CIT is “fluid,” although a Chapter on the notes wouldn’t trigger any covenants and bankruptcy would allow the bank to get its money 11 bankruptcy filing could come as early as today. Such a filing jeopardize a shutdown of the loan facility. now, as opposed to a promise of repayment down would be the first for a firm that was a recipient of TARP funds. Kellwood was thrown into crisis mode last the road and the risk in the current economic en- However, there is precedent for a filing by a financial insti- Friday when Deutsche Bank, its largest notehold- vironment that a later crisis might further delay tution that excludes subsidiaries. Lehman Brothers Holdings er, said it did not intend to support a proposed ex- repayment of the note. Inc. filed for Chapter 11 in September, but none of its broker- change offer. A filing, however, would render the other note- dealers were part of it. Eric Hunter, Kellwood senior vice president holders in the position of unsecured creditors. If the factoring business were able to operate without interrup- for marketing and brand awareness, said the ex- A bankruptcy filing, still a possibility, would be tion, it would be a welcome relief for vendors and retailers, which tension of the maturity date allows for “continued a blow to Sun Capital Partners. Its subsidiary, Sun are gearing up for back-to-school and early fall shipments. negotiations with Deutsche Bank.” Capital Securities Group, purchased Kellwood for While CIT’s options have narrowed, the lender could avoid Deutsche Bank was an instrumental player in $762 million in February 2008. After knocking out bankruptcy if its debt holders agreed to exchange debt for eq- the negotiations to restructure the terms of the $100 million from its expense structure, the appar- uity and shore up CIT’s balance sheet. Financial sources said proposed note swap, which included an extension el firm has been operating at a profit, Hunter said. negotiations hadn’t progressed. Executives at competing factoring firms believe the factor- ing business might be sold, possibly to J.P. Morgan, to raise cash. J.P. Morgan doesn’t operate a factoring division. A spokes- woman for J.P. Morgan declined comment. Bauer Auction Expected to Go Into 2nd Day However, CIT’s stock and bonds were trading as if investors were expecting a bankruptcy filing. The bankruptcy court auction for Bauer filed its Chapter 11 petition on June 16, Anders Maxwell, managing director at investment banking bankrupt Eddie Bauer Holdings Inc. started late and as part of its filing entered into a stalking- firm Peter J. Solomon Co., who specializes in restructuring, Thursday and, at press time, was expected to con- horse purchase agreement with CCMP for $202 mil- said, “If the market is right, it is saying CIT is failing and is tinue into today. lion in cash, with adjustments for working capital going into bankruptcy. Based on the volume of the stocks [being According to sources at the auction, VF Corp., and other considerations. CCMP is a buyout firm traded] and the direction, there is no ambiguity as to what the which expressed interest earlier in the week, is which once included Cabela’s, Crosstown Traders market thinks. Something had to give when CIT lost its invest- looking only at the intellectual property assets of and Cornerstone Brands in its portfolio. ment grade rating. You can’t operate a finance company with- Bauer. Other bidders are understood to be stalk- Today, the parties will have the chance to bid out an investment grade rating.” ing-horse bidder CCMP Capital Advisors LLC, an for either all of the assets as a going concern or affiliate of Rainier Holdings; private equity firm just a portion of them. A hearing is set for July 22 Golden Gate Capital; Iconix Brand Group Inc., to approve the buyer selected at auction. There is a level of unfairness when working in tandem with an unidentified strate- Bauer, which saw its 2008 sales decline 1.8 per- gic retail partner, and liquidation firms Gordon cent to $971.3 million, is still considered one of the you“ look at some other industries that Brothers and Hilco Consumer Capital, which are iconic names in outdoor and leisure apparel. have been bailed out.­ said to be planning a joint bid. — Alexandra Steigrad and V.M.Y. ”— Steven Kolb, CFDA Like many within the apparel industry, Maxwell struggled CIT Crisis Compounds California’s Woes with why the Obama administration felt compelled to bail out Chrysler and General Motors but put a finance company at risk By Anne Riley-Katz ployment rate, to the housing collapse — all of when the firm provides financing to small businesses, a major these metrics are far worse than the average of the area of employment in the U.S. The CIT Group Inc. crisis adds another rest of the country, so if all the economic indica- Gilbert Harrison, chairman of investment banking firm nightmarish facet to California’s economic woes. tors are worse than the rest of the country, it’s defi- Financo Inc., said, “Should CIT fail, it will have a ripple effect The apparel business is a key industry in the nitely going to be tough to buck that trend. to the retail community, which will be damaged especially if ad- state, which has hundreds of small and midsize “We’re being forced to have a fiscally bal- vances are not made to many of the vendors that they service. CIT firms of the kind that CIT services, and the impact anced life at home — use cash, not debt, pay off acts as a bank and the people they service will be unable to pay of a failure of the commercial lender would be a your credit cards — so why can’t they do that in their employees, buy goods and deliver them to the retailers.” major blow. Sacramento?” he said. CIT has already pulled back on some lending to clients. “It’s deadly for the shmata business,” said Dov California’s credit rating is the worst in the Ian Varley, managing director at Bibby International Trade Charney, founder and chief executive officer of Los country, having been downgraded again this week Finance, a division of Bibby Financial Services, said, “We have Angeles-based American Apparel by rating firms to just two notches been getting many calls today from clients funded by CIT. A few Inc., who was a client of CIT be- above junk status. Major banks called and said they didn’t get funding yesterday, and not today. tween 2002 and 2004. “For the ap- have stopped recognizing the IOUs In the last few days, we’ve gotten calls from people funded by parel industry as a whole, it’s very the state has been issuing. CIT looking for options.” serious. For the ordinary apparel “I’ve been shopping for a new Although Varley noted there are “hundreds of small factors,” company, it’s like they can’t func- factor lately because our contract he acknowledged not all have the capacity to pick up the slack. tion, they can’t buy or sell.” was up, and I’m shocked at how the He’s seen more applicants for factoring services as those who Retail analyst Lynn Gibson of landscape has changed,” said Josh would have received loans from banks find themselves seeking Roseville, Calif.-based Gibson Retail Houmann, chief operating officer alternatives now that banks have tightened lending standards. Advisors, said while CIT’s bankrupt- of Los Angeles-based eveningwear A research note from CreditSights said CIT needs between $4 cy would cause turmoil throughout label Sue Wong. “It’s so tight out billion and $6 billion in financing to avoid a filing, even though the industry, the impact may be de- there, major labels and major re- CIT believes it needs just $2 billion in the next 24 hours. The cidedly worse in California because tail chains are not able to get fac- CreditSights analysts said the Treasury Department has indicated of the cumulative impact of the state tored these days, especially if they it expects to lose the $2.33 billion in TARP funding it loaned to budget crisis, retail liquidations, in- don’t already have a lot of cash. CIT. The analysts advised bondholders to “brace for bankruptcy.” creased sales taxes, frozen credit Many factors are not interested in Chris Brendler, analyst at Stifel Nicolaus, wrote in his note and the housing market collapse. lending against the receivables.” on Thursday, “We expect the company to file for bankruptcy in “This is panic-inducing,” Gibson CIT’s potential failure would af- short order.…We think CIT’s poor credit quality ultimately led said. “There’s an across-the-board fect other sectors of the state econ- to its demise.” lending crisis — if you’ve got a lot omy, as well — the company’s larg- Brendler added that CIT “clearly had the wrong business of debt, you are somebody else’s est bondholder, Pacific Investment model for the new world of deleveraging.” He also noted, hostage. Nobody is immune. Down Management Co., is based in “Although CIT management is working desperately on rescue fi- the road, some of the big guys may Newport Beach. nancing from existing debt holders, we think this is a tall order be able to find other means of fi- Some economists believe the on such short notice, especially given the size of the hole.” nancing, but the small guys will Hayward, Calif.-based Mervyns long-term impact of the state’s eco- Sources said even up until early afternoon Wednesday, there just be forced down the drain. It’s liquidated. nomic mess will be significant. was hope within CIT that a deal for a government bailout could really disheartening.” “People will absolutely be be worked out. Those sources also said there was disagreement The stalemate over closing California’s $26.3 much more cautious in the way they spend, and among the Treasury Department, Federal Reserve and Federal billion budget deficit has crippled the state govern- for a lot longer than some people are predict- Deposit Insurance Corp. on whether a bailout would even stem ment, while 11.5 percent unemployment and high ing, and this may last for years,” said Jack Kyser, the problems at CIT. home foreclosure rates have continued to erode chief economist for the Los Angeles County These sources said even if a deal could be worked out where consumer confidence. Economic Development Corp. “What you have is assets were transferred to CIT’s bank and then to the holding “California is a weak market right now, clearly,” a situation where state government, which theo- company, it would still need FDIC’s approval, and there’s no said Marc Crossman, ceo of Los Angeles-based retically should act as an economic stabilizer, is assurance that approval would be granted. Joe’s Jeans Inc. “The budget deficit to the unem- acting as a complete destabilizer.” 14 WWD, FRIDAY, JULY 17, 2009 WWD.COM Financial For full daily stock changes and more financial news, see WWD.com / business-news.

Carrefour Sales Dip 1.2% in 2nd Qtr. 10 Best Performers By Elena Berton economic downturn, accounts for 23 per- cent of group sales, while the company PARIS — Carrefour SA, the world’s sec- is exposed to mature markets in Europe DAILY COMPANIES P/E Volume Amt ond-largest retailer behind Wal-Mart such as Spain, Italy and Belgium, which Stores Inc., reported a 1.2 percent de- together with France account for 70 per- High Low Last %Change cline in second-quarter sales Thursday. cent of group sales. For the three months ended June 30, Swedish-born Olofsson joined the sales declined to 23.44 billion euros, company Jan. 1, replacing José Luis 29.15 25.87 Citi Trends (CTRN) 18.4 566837 28.96 +11.34 or $31.87 billion at constant exchange Duran, who had been under pressure rates for the period. Sales from estab- to improve the company’s financial per- 1.75 1.55 Unifi (UFI) - 168032 1.75 +10.06 lished stores dropped 2.2 percent in formance and limping stock price from the quarter. 11.74 10.75 G-III Apparel (GIII) - 106733 11.73 +8.61 Carrefour said it saw some encouraging results during the second quarter, including market 2.76 2.46 Retail Ventures (RVI) - 111041 2.74 +7.45 share gains in France; the testing of new store concepts such as dis- 14.56 13.2 Lululemon (LULU) 26.6 1669893 14.49 +6.78 count brand Dia and convenience supermarket Carrefour City; the 11.60 10.66 Movado (MOV) - 124843 11.52 +6.27 turnaround of its troubled opera- tions in Belgium and Italy, and 7.83 7.00 Syms (SYMS) - 24230 7.49 +5.49 faster growth in Brazil and China. “The strategic initiatives that 9.99 9.27 Ramco-Gershenson (RPT) 12.1 145174 9.79 +5.04 we are implementing should show positive results in the sec- ond half,” said chief executive 23.08 21.57 Under Armour (UA) 27.7 600753 23.01 +5.02 officer Lars Olofsson. The extent of Carrefour’s 10.47 9.92 K-Swiss (KSWS) 27.8 90972 10.45 +4.50 second-quarter performance was already known, as the company Carrefour plans to become more competitive on price. disclosed first-half sales and earnings figures at a meeting with ana- its largest shareholder, Blue Capital lysts at the end of June. Group, the investment consortium of 10 Worst Performers At the same meeting, Olofsson an- LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton nounced plans to revive Carrefour’s chief Bernard Arnault and investment performance, save 4.5 billion euros, firm Colony Capital. DAILY COMPANIES P/E Volume Amt or $6.32 billion, by 2012 and introduce Carrefour is scheduled to report sec- a fresh price-cuts strategy to improve ond-quarter earnings Aug. 28. High Low Last %Change its competitiveness. Shares in the company closed at 32.62 Carrefour’s French hypermarket euros, or $45.81, before the release of business, which has been hurt by the second-quarter sales. 10.35 0.30 Sport-Haley (SPOR) - 13033 0.30 -16.39 0.80 0.68 Joe’s Jeans (JOEZ) 11.6 346957 0.71 -12.32 Redcats Shuffles Top La Redoute Execs 0.73 0.62 Frederick’s of Hollywood (FOH) - 8815 0.62 -11.43 PARIS — Redcats, the home-shopping a Redcats veteran since 1982, had been 0.19 0.16 NexCen (NEXC) - 21750 0.17 -8.11 unit of French retail-to-luxury group ceo of La Redoute since May 2008. PPR, has reshuffled the top manage- Balla, 41, joins from Robert Klingel 52.00 49.25 French Connection * (FCCN:L) - 71735 50.75 -6.02 ment of fashion and home furnishings Europe, Germany’s fourth-largest home catalogue La Redoute in a bid to im- shopping company, where she had been prove its competitiveness. managing director since 2005. She pre- 5.88 5.51 Coldwater Creek (CWTR) - 905282 5.55 -5.13 Nathalie Balla has been named man- viously held management positions at aging director of La Redoute, effective German retailer Karstadt Quelle. 4.32 3.98 Zale (ZLC) - 291321 4.06 -4.92 Aug. 31, and Redcats’ chief executive Like most retailers, La Redoute has officer, Jean-Michel Noir, will become suffered as consumers have reduced 14.74 13.64 Collective Brands (PSS) - 1802583 14.11 -4.73 chairman of the unit. their discretionary spending during the Balla and Noir will replace Nicolas recession. In the first quarter of 2009, 3.73 3.42 American Apparel (APP) 77.4 267721 3.69 -4.65 Bernard, who is leaving the helm of La sales dropped 14 percent in France and Redoute because of “diverging views” 6 percent in international markets. 4.41 4.20 Charming Shoppes (CHRS) - 1223627 4.25 -4.49 with management, Redcats said. Bernard, — Elena Beron

* Editor’s note: European stocks are quoted in the currency of their principal exchanges. Shares on the London Stock Exchange are quoted in pence, Richemont and The Swatch Group are quoted in Swiss Poorest Nations Hit Hard by Recession francs and Hennes & Mauritz is quoted in Swedish kronor. All other European stocks are in euros. By John Zarocostas countries. Gore said a recent analysis showed 51,000 jobs have been lost in GENEVA — The world’s 49 poorest coun- Cambodian apparel factories, repre- tries have been hit hard by the global senting about 15 percent of the coun- Summer Sales Weak in France economic downturn, including the try’s garment workers. export-dependent apparel sectors in He said the economy of Bangladesh By Ellen Groves l’Habillement (FEH) — the French some nations, a United Nations report has shown “more resilience,” which he Federation of Apparel Retailers in said Thursday. attributed to concerted efforts to structur- PARIS — Despite bigger discounts, France’s English — which reported business The study forecasts the 49 nations ally transform the economy and enact re- summer sales have flopped, according to slowed 2 percent year-on-year during will grow this year by only 2.7 percent, forms in areas such as agriculture, manu- initial results released Thursday. the first two weeks of sales. The FEH, down from the 7.4 percent growth they facturing and commercial services. L’Institut Français de la Mode (IFM) — which represents 400 retailers operat- averaged between 2003 and 2008. The But the study said that even in the French Fashion Institute in English ing some 15,000 stores, said the economic slowdown forecast is 2.1 percent if Bangladesh, the sector faces “significant — reported business over the first two crisis contributed to the decline but also Bangladesh, which accounts for about competition both from countries higher weeks of sales, which began on June 24, blamed so-called floating sales, when 25 percent of the total gross domestic up the value chain with higher produc- was down between 3 and 5 percent com- French retailers were allowed to hold product of the group of Least Developed tivity and quality and better links with pared with the same period last year. sales outside the official periods this year Countries, is excluded. buyers, and also countries with lower Hypermarkets suffered the biggest de- for the first time. The report, compiled by the U.N. wages that are aggressively seeking to cline, with sales down at least 10 per- The FEH said when sales kicked off Conference on Trade & Development, enter the same markets.” cent. Only department stores managed to the discounts were noticeably higher concludes that poor African nations Overall, the report said African Least maintain 2008’s levels. than last year, which weighed on retail- are likely to be “more severely affect- Developed Countries lag far behind “This result seems to confirm a cer- ers’ business. ed” than Asian counterparts such as their Asian counterparts and notes that tain attenuation of the ‘sales effect,’” The FEH said its members had an- Bangladesh, which have more diversi- manufacturing accounted for only 10.7 said Charles Tillard-Tête, the IFM’s head ticipated a decline in consumption and fied economies. percent of gross domestic product in of statistics. Traffic appeared to be in adjusted their buying patterns and inven- However, Charles Gore, head of 2007, marginally more than the 9.8 per- strong decline at a majority of the retail- tory levels. research for undeveloped countries cent averaged in the Seventies. By com- ers surveyed, and the average shopping “However, FEH retailers remain very and the conference, told reporters the parison, manufacturing in Asian unde- basket was also less than last year’s, the cautious as to the perspectives of the sec- sharp reduction in external demand veloped nations in 2007 contributed 15.7 IFM said. ond half 2009,” the organization said. for low-skilled manufacturers like percent of GDP, up from 10.9 percent in Those trends were confirmed by Sales continue across France until apparel is also affecting poor Asian the Seventies. the Fédération des Enseignes de July 28. WWD, FRIDAY, JULY 17, 2009 15 WWD.COM Little Marc Swimwear On Deck for Cruise Adrianna Papell Enters Juniors By Rachel Brown more iconically recognizable, the bet- By Holly Haber ter. that is why we continued with little Marc Jacobs InternatIonal Isn’t Miss Marc and little Mister Marc.” aDrIanna PaPell Has More tHan Its 30tH annIVersarY to celebrate limiting its children’s wear to dry land. swimwear anywhere developed this month. the misses’ dress and sportswear firm is about to launch its first junior label. the company, which unveiled little Marc by Marc Jacobs grown-up swim- called Hailey logan by adrianna Papell, the 120-piece collection will debut aug. 4 Marc apparel in 2005, has signed on with wear starting for spring this year and with short and long embellished dresses for spring parties, dances and proms. swimwear anywhere Inc., a Farmington, is enlarging the line for cruise. From the label is geared toward 10- to 18-year-olds, but could easily be picked up by n.Y.-based Marc by the beginning, plans women in their 20s seeking a reasonably priced look, said Jaynee berkman, president Marc Jacobs swimwear called for a swift exten- and daughter of company co-founder Harvey berkman. licensee, to design and A Little Marc sion into kids’ swim- named for her 10-year-old daughter, Hailey logan will retail from $34 to $49 for produce little Marc girls’ swimsuit. wear. “When we did party dresses known in the trade as “club,” and $49 to $99 for prom. In addition to Jacobs girls’ and boys’ the spring launch, it sizes 1 to 13, some styles will also be cut for larger girls. swimwear launching was received very well “We’ve been a top resource in occasion dressing in both better and bridge, misses, for cruise 2010. even though the eco- petites, women’s and prom, so we thought it would be great to leverage our design, pro- the roughly 50- nomic times have been duction and marketing into the juniors market,” said adam berkman, chief operating piece collection, which tough,” said Dilorenzo, officer and Jaynee’s brother. “the junior department has been one of the better per- contains around 10 who also worked to ex- forming businesses through this recessionary market. the parents seem to be willing cover-up styles, runs pand Juicy couture to sacrifice to make sure the girls have the right outfit for prom.” from size two through swimwear to children. the berkmans hired juniors sales veteran Jodi brandt, formerly of Morgan & co. 10 and will wholesale “We felt we should just and Zum Zum, to manage the di- from $32.50 to $44.50 keep going.” vision. for girls and $17.50 to the distribution they feel Papell’s diversifica- $36.50 for boys. of little Marc Jacobs tion is one reason the company “Product expan- swimwear will mir- has weathered several reces- sion is a key element ror the distribution of sions. Wholesale sales this year of Marc Jacobs’ strat- Marc by Marc Jacobs are expected to be about $90 mil- egy,” said bertrand apparel with the ex- lion — roughly equal to last year, stalla-bourdillon, Marc ception of an increased adam berkman said. He is hope- Jacobs International emphasis on children’s ful that Hailey logan will do $7 chief executive officer specialty shops, said million its first year. and chairman. Dilorenzo. the kids’ the company’s principal rosemarie Dilorenzo, who owns swimwear is expected to enter 200 Marc labels are adrianna Papell swimwear anywhere and Huntington by Marc Jacobs stores, select better de- misses’ dresses, which are sold beach, calif.-based tyr sport with hus- partment stores and specialty shops in to major department stores, in- band Joseph, said little Marc Jacobs its first year on the market. the com- cluding Macy’s and Dillard’s, swimwear draws heavily upon popular pany declined to give first-year sales and aidan Mattox, a bridge eve- looks in little Marc boys’ and girls’ ap- expectations. ning and prom resource carried parel, and Marc by Marc Jacobs adult swimwear anywhere’s stable of swim by nordstrom, neiman Marcus, ready-to-wear and swimwear. she brands includes the licensed carmen Sketches of the new Hailey Logan junior dress line. saks Fifth avenue and others. pointed to the little Miss and Mister Marc Valvo, Juicy couture, DKnY and Hailey logan features similar Marc signature cartoon graphics pulled Michael Kors and in-house roxanne, trends as the main labels, including strapless and one-shoulder silhouettes, draping, from Marc by Marc Jacobs’ apparel and beach House and coco reef. Dilorenzo bright colors and details like jeweled embellishment, bows and draping. Fabrics include accessories, and kissing fish prints used said swimwear consumers are “still polyester satin and taffeta, jersey, chiffon and prints. in Marc by Marc Jacobs swimsuits. looking to spend money on special all partners in the business — including Harvey, Jaynee and adam berkman, Gary “People are always looking for mom- luxury, and the kids’ is following suit.” Hodes and lily Dhou — play active roles in management. my-and-me-type things,” said Dilorenzo. she added, “People in this economy are “the key to surviving has been product and relationships with the stores,” Jaynee “Honestly, the cuter, the better. the spending on their kids still.” berkman said. “If you have the right product, the rest seems to come along with it.”

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Spaces MEN’S ACCESSORY COMPANY SEEKS THE FOLLOWING ACCOUNT MANAGER To handle major depart store accts COMMERCIAL Must be aggressive, organized and Production Coordinator know retail math/excel existing rela- REAL ESTATE PATTERN/SAMPLES tionships a plus! Private Label womenswear manufac- SHOWROOM SALES ASSISTANCE Garment center location. Professional turer with a fast paced wholesale and /Reliable Quality. Men & women all style. Able to take direction, be extremely retail operation looking for a Produc- organized, good at multi-tasking and Low Cost. Small production. 212-563-3331 tion Coordinator to work closely with know excel/word. Production Manager. Daily communi- Salary for both positions will depend PATTERNS, SAMPLES, cations and follow up with overseas on experience. E-mail resumes to: vendors, customers and interface with [email protected] PRODUCTIONS design, merchandising, sales and imports. ACCESSORIES ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. Must be detail oriented & have good Seeking results-oriented account executive for NY showroom to develop Premier mfg. of custom POP displays Call Sherry 212-719-0622. computer skills. Email resumes to: and grow our new accessory division. & signage since 1940 looking for a [email protected] salesperson. Contacts with major retailers Showrooms & Lofts Responsibility is national and travel will be required. Minimum of 3 years a must. Commission. Resume to: BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS PATTERNS, SAMPLES, [email protected] Great ’New’ Office Space Avail PRODUCTIONS accessory sales experience required. Ideal candidate must be highly moti- ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 Full service shop to the trade. vated, a team player and have relationships with department and specialty Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. stores. Please e-mail resume and cover letter to: Sales Representative NY based fabric co is looking for SALES REP min 3 yrs exp, w/ well es- [email protected] tablished client base.Fax 212.810.4359 Technical Assistant [email protected] NYC based established ladies sports- wear import company is seeking a highly organized and detail oriented spec tech. 3-5 years exp with knowl- edge of measuring, patternmaking and For information on subscribing to WWD proficiency in computers. Good verbal and written communication skills with call our toll-free number an ability to work in fast paced envi- ronment a must We offer competitive salary and benefits. Apply at 1-800-289-0273 [email protected] – Code: MNTA intoStep the spotlight PHOTO BY DELPHINE ACHARD

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