A New Attitude
Total Page：16
File Type：pdf, Size：1020Kb
LACROIX TRIMS DOWN/2 MULBERRY PROFITS LEAP/2 Women’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • June 23, 2006 • $2.00 WWDFRIDAY ▲Lacoste’s Beauty Inspiration, A New page 5. Attitude NEW YORK — Guerlain is aiming for an edgier, younger consumer with Insolence, its new women’s fragrance, due out in August in the U.S. and September globally. Academy Award-winning actress Hilary Swank is the scent’s front woman and will appear in print and TV advertising for the brand. For more, see page 4. The NRDC Agenda: After L&T Deal, More Retail Buys Ahead By David Moin for $1.195 billion and has at “Our approach is not to wait for NEW YORK — The retail scene has least one more retail deal in the a process to be created. We started another major player. works that could be completed working on Lord & Taylor before NRDC Equity Partners said this year. Among the properties it was put up for sale, before there Thursday that it has agreed to the company could examine is was a process,” said Richard A. purchase Lord & Taylor from Saks Fifth Avenue, which is not Baker, president of NRDC, in an Federated Department Stores officially up for sale. See Retail’s, Page 12 PHOTOS BY JOHN AQUINO; STYLED BY MEGAN MCINTYRE JOHN AQUINO; STYLED BY PHOTOS BY 2 WWD, FRIDAY, JUNE 23, 2006 WWD.COM Lacroix Refi nes Focus PARIS — Christian Lacroix is three collections ultimately be- WWDFRIDAY paring down — and it’s all for came confusing internally and Beauty the better. for the trade, and resulted in a In an effort to align his core rtw message that was “diffi cult ready-to-wear business more to read.” Distribution of the sec- GENERAL closely with the house’s couture ondary lines was concentrated Federated Department Stores announced the sale of the Lord & Taylor image, the designer has phased largely in Europe, he noted. 1 chain to NRDC Equity Partners for $1.195 billion in cash. out two long-running diffusion To support the expanded Christian Lacroix has phased out diffusion lines Bazaar and Christian lines, Bazaar and Christian Christian Lacroix label, Topiol 2 Lacroix Jeans, while expanding his signature ready-to-wear collection. Lacroix Jeans, while expanding made some key hires, including his main signature collection Kim Laursen as studio direc- BEAUTY: Backed by Hollywood superstar Hilary Swank, Guerlain is with more accessible items like tor and Veronique Beaumont as 4 targeting a young consumer base with a new fragrance called Insolence. knitwear and even denim. sales director. Laursen rejoined Shiseido is planning to add some juice to its fall business with a cocktail Nicolas Topiol, chief execu- Lacroix after design stints at 5 of skin care and color cosmetics introductions. tive offi cer of Lacroix, outlined Cacharel and Kenzo; Beaumont the changes to WWD and said previously worked at Marcel After opening two stores in New York 18 months ago, Molton Brown is Lacroix’s new owner, Falic Marongiu and Sonia Rykiel. 6 embarking on a retail expansion to put 30 stores in the U.S. by 2010. Group, of Florida, is confi dent He also said production was House GOP leaders defended their plan to hold hearings on immigration they will lead to “good avenues disentangled from the LVMH and said they intend to send a compromise bill to the president this year. to growth.” network and Lacroix now works 11 In fact, Topiol said doubling with new suppliers and manu- Classifi ed Advertisements.............................................................15 the size of the Lacroix business facturers who can meet stringent is “definitely feasible” as the quality and sizing standards. To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is fi rstname. fi rm embarks on a retail expan- Topiol also stressed Lacroix [email protected], using the individual’s name. sion and brings licensed prod- himself is instrumental in the WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPY- ucts to new international mar- new effort. RIGHT ©2006 FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. kets. Sources estimate the brand “He’s really involved, very VOLUME 191, NO. 133. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one ad- ditional issue in January and November, two additional issues in March, May, June, August and December, and three ad- generates annual revenues of motivated and very directive in ditional issues in February, April, September and October by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, about 40 million euros, or $50.7 his approach,” Topiol said. Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers million at current exchange. Eliminating the diffusion lines Inc.: S.I. Newhouse Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President & C.E.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President and A look from Lacroix’s cruise collection. C.O.O.; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice President_Chief Information Officer; Topiol said the consolidation of resulted in a drop in sales, but David Orlin, Senior Vice President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice President_Real Estate; Maurie Perl, Senior its rtw lines, which took full ef- “not dramatically,” Topiol noted. Vice President_Chief Communications Officer. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Group: Steven T. Florio, Advance fect with the cruise collection, about $450 retail up to $4,000. Lacroix, gearing up to open Magazine Group Vice Chairman; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice President_General Manager, Shared Services Center. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. is already generating results. “We really want to appeal to a a newly designed fl agship at the 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 88654-9096-RM0001. Canada post return undeliverable Sales for the season more than much wider audience.” Forum Shops at Caesars in Las Canadian addresses to: DPGM, 7496 Bath Road, Unit 2, Mississauga, ON L4T 1L2. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS doubled as buyers embraced a He also noted that jersey, Vegas in late July, has targeted CHANGES TO WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR collection that spanned every- knitwear and other mix-and- the U.S. as a key growth market DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four thing from crested, polo-style match categories were expand- and is hunting for real estate in weeks is required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. dresses and simple capri pants ed for a label often stereotyped Manhattan. Subscriptions Rates: U.S. possessions, Retailer, daily one year: $109; Manufacturer, daily one year $145. All other to lacy cocktail dresses. for elaborate after-fi ve dressing Topiol also plans to broad- U.S., daily one year $205. Canada/Mexico, daily one year, $295. All other foreign (Air Speed), daily one year $595. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, Lacroix’s spring 2007 collection, and grand eveningwear. en distribution of licensed and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions to be unveiled to the trade start- Topiol said the diffusion lines, products. For example, men’s and reprint requests, please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To ing July 18, will fully refl ect the introduced in the mid-Nineties shirts, wedding dresses, jew- subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would new merchandising approach. when the brand was owned elry, swimwear and lingerie are interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information by mail and/or e-mail, please advise “The idea is to have a collec- by luxury giant LVMH Moët among those not yet available in us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. tion with a wide range of pric- Hennessy Louis Vuitton, “start- America that will be showcased WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED MANU- SCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPAR- es,” he explained, noting that ed out well, but then faded.” at the Vegas fl agship, he noted. ENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, prices for cruise ranged from What’s more, he said the — Miles Socha OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED Mulberry Yearly Profi ts Surge Quote of the Week By Samantha Conti it will open an accessories unit this year. It already has a store on Bleecker Street in It’s pre-fall that’s the problem LONDON — Profits at Mulberry Group plc nearly Manhattan, and there are three more U.S. units “ tripled to 4.9 million pounds, or $9 million, from in the works. because it gets delivered in June. 1.7 million pounds, or $3.1 million, thanks to a The brand also has just opened a store in Oslo, strong surge in leather accessories sales in the fi s- and plans to open shops in Singapore, Seoul, Spring has the wrong selling time…by cal year ending March 31.