LACROIX TRIMS DOWN/2 MULBERRY PROFITS LEAP/2 Women’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • June 23, 2006 • $2.00

WWDFRIDAY ▲Lacoste’s Beauty Inspiration, A New page 5. Attitude NEW YORK — is aiming for an edgier, younger consumer with Insolence, its new women’s fragrance, due out in August in the U.S. and September globally. Academy Award-winning actress Hilary Swank is the scent’s front woman and will appear in print and TV advertising for the brand. For more, see page 4.

The NRDC Agenda: After L&T Deal, More Retail Buys Ahead By David Moin for $1.195 billion and has at “Our approach is not to wait for NEW YORK — The retail scene has least one more retail deal in the a process to be created. We started another major player. works that could be completed working on Lord & Taylor before NRDC Equity Partners said this year. Among the properties it was put up for sale, before there Thursday that it has agreed to the company could examine is was a process,” said Richard A. purchase Lord & Taylor from Saks Fifth Avenue, which is not Baker, president of NRDC, in an Federated Department Stores officially up for sale. See Retail’s, Page 12 PHOTOS BY JOHN AQUINO; STYLED BY MEGAN MCINTYRE JOHN AQUINO; STYLED BY PHOTOS BY 2 WWD, FRIDAY, JUNE 23, 2006 WWD.COM Lacroix Refi nes Focus PARIS — Christian Lacroix is three collections ultimately be- WWDFRIDAY paring down — and it’s all for came confusing internally and Beauty the better. for the trade, and resulted in a In an effort to align his core rtw message that was “diffi cult ready-to-wear business more to read.” Distribution of the sec- GENERAL closely with the house’s couture ondary lines was concentrated Federated Department Stores announced the sale of the Lord & Taylor image, the designer has phased largely in Europe, he noted. 1 chain to NRDC Equity Partners for $1.195 billion in cash. out two long-running diffusion To support the expanded Christian Lacroix has phased out diffusion lines Bazaar and Christian lines, Bazaar and Christian Christian Lacroix label, Topiol 2 Lacroix Jeans, while expanding his signature ready-to-wear collection. Lacroix Jeans, while expanding made some key hires, including his main signature collection Kim Laursen as studio direc- BEAUTY: Backed by Hollywood superstar Hilary Swank, Guerlain is with more accessible items like tor and Veronique Beaumont as 4 targeting a young consumer base with a new fragrance called Insolence. knitwear and even denim. sales director. Laursen rejoined is planning to add some juice to its fall business with a cocktail Nicolas Topiol, chief execu- Lacroix after design stints at 5 of skin care and color introductions. tive offi cer of Lacroix, outlined Cacharel and Kenzo; Beaumont the changes to WWD and said previously worked at Marcel After opening two stores in New York 18 months ago, Molton Brown is Lacroix’s new owner, Falic Marongiu and Sonia Rykiel. 6 embarking on a retail expansion to put 30 stores in the U.S. by 2010. Group, of Florida, is confi dent He also said production was House GOP leaders defended their plan to hold hearings on immigration they will lead to “good avenues disentangled from the LVMH and said they intend to send a compromise bill to the president this year. to growth.” network and Lacroix now works 11 In fact, Topiol said doubling with new suppliers and manu- Classifi ed Advertisements...... 15 the size of the Lacroix business facturers who can meet stringent is “definitely feasible” as the quality and sizing standards. To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is fi rstname. fi rm embarks on a retail expan- Topiol also stressed Lacroix [email protected], using the individual’s name. sion and brings licensed prod- himself is instrumental in the WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPY- ucts to new international mar- new effort. RIGHT ©2006 FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. kets. Sources estimate the brand “He’s really involved, very VOLUME 191, NO. 133. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one ad- ditional issue in January and November, two additional issues in March, May, June, August and December, and three ad- generates annual revenues of motivated and very directive in ditional issues in February, April, September and October by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, about 40 million euros, or $50.7 his approach,” Topiol said. Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers million at current exchange. Eliminating the diffusion lines Inc.: S.I. Newhouse Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President & C.E.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President and A look from Lacroix’s cruise collection. C.O.O.; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice President_Chief Information Officer; Topiol said the consolidation of resulted in a drop in sales, but David Orlin, Senior Vice President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice President_Real Estate; Maurie Perl, Senior its rtw lines, which took full ef- “not dramatically,” Topiol noted. Vice President_Chief Communications Officer. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Group: Steven T. Florio, Advance fect with the cruise collection, about $450 retail up to $4,000. Lacroix, gearing up to open Magazine Group Vice Chairman; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice President_General Manager, Shared Services Center. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. is already generating results. “We really want to appeal to a a newly designed fl agship at the 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 88654-9096-RM0001. Canada post return undeliverable Sales for the season more than much wider audience.” Forum Shops at Caesars in Las Canadian addresses to: DPGM, 7496 Bath Road, Unit 2, Mississauga, ON L4T 1L2. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS doubled as buyers embraced a He also noted that jersey, Vegas in late July, has targeted CHANGES TO WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR collection that spanned every- knitwear and other mix-and- the U.S. as a key growth market DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four thing from crested, polo-style match categories were expand- and is hunting for real estate in weeks is required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. dresses and simple capri pants ed for a label often stereotyped Manhattan. Subscriptions Rates: U.S. possessions, Retailer, daily one year: $109; Manufacturer, daily one year $145. All other to lacy cocktail dresses. for elaborate after-fi ve dressing Topiol also plans to broad- U.S., daily one year $205. Canada/Mexico, daily one year, $295. All other foreign (Air Speed), daily one year $595. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, Lacroix’s spring 2007 collection, and grand eveningwear. en distribution of licensed and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions to be unveiled to the trade start- Topiol said the diffusion lines, products. For example, men’s and reprint requests, please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To ing July 18, will fully refl ect the introduced in the mid-Nineties shirts, wedding dresses, jew- subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would new merchandising approach. when the brand was owned elry, swimwear and lingerie are interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information by mail and/or e-mail, please advise “The idea is to have a collec- by luxury giant LVMH Moët among those not yet available in us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. tion with a wide range of pric- Hennessy Louis Vuitton, “start- America that will be showcased WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED MANU- SCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPAR- es,” he explained, noting that ed out well, but then faded.” at the Vegas fl agship, he noted. ENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, prices for cruise ranged from What’s more, he said the — Miles Socha OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED Mulberry Yearly Profi ts Surge Quote of the Week By Samantha Conti it will open an accessories unit this year. It already has a store on Bleecker Street in It’s pre-fall that’s the problem LONDON — Profits at Mulberry Group plc nearly Manhattan, and there are three more U.S. units “ tripled to 4.9 million pounds, or $9 million, from in the works. because it gets delivered in June. 1.7 million pounds, or $3.1 million, thanks to a The brand also has just opened a store in Oslo, strong surge in leather accessories sales in the fi s- and plans to open shops in Singapore, Seoul, Spring has the wrong selling time…by cal year ending March 31. Istanbul and at Dubai’s Villa Moda this year. Sales rose 44.3 percent to 43.4 million pounds, The company’s strategy in October, when it actually turns fall, or $79.4 million, from 30.1 million pounds, or emerging markets such as $55.1 million, the company said in a statement Turkey and Korea has been [stores] need another collection. Thursday. All fi gures have been converted at cur- to team with retail partners to rent exchange. open franchises. Basically, we are killing fall. Ninety percent of those sales came from acces- Looking ahead, the Mulberry ”— Donna Karan sories, chiefl y leather handbags. The remaining statement said U.K. retail sales 10 percent came from the company’s small in the fi rst 11 weeks of the current but growing ready-to-wear collection. fi scal year are up 19 percent, with Mulberry, which is controlled by the fall 2006 wholesale orders 12 percent Ong family and listed on London’s sec- ahead of the previous year. ondary AIM stock exchange, also will Montague said the number-one sell- In Brief pay its fi rst dividend since 1988 — 1 er for Mulberry has been the Anthony, a penny, or $0.02, a share. small messenger bag originally aimed at ● MARIKA TAPS KALLMANN: The Marika Group Inc. has “It’s great news for the whole men, but which has become popular with named Scott Kallmann president of the San Diego performance team,” said Lisa Montague, women, too. fitness and yoga apparel firm. He succeeds Shelley Marks, who Mulberry’s chief operating of- The bag retails for $325 in the U.S., and left the company in April in what was described as an “ami- fi cer. “The rise in profi ts came in terms of units sold, it’s been far outstrip- cable split” by Marika owner Don Schumacher. Kallmann, a mostly from an increase in ping other Mulberry bestsellers such as the 20-year veteran of the apparel industry, was president of ac- sales — and a more effi cient Bayswater and Roxanne bags. tivewear manufacturer Rainbeau Apparel for more than 10 retail business.” “The success of our men’s bags has come as a years. Earlier, he held various executive positions at Mervyn’s. Montague added that mar- surprise. In the U.K., we now have 7 percent of the Reporting to Schumacher, he will direct internal and external kets showing the most dynamic overall men’s bag market,” Montague said. sales, operations and business strategies, marketing, finance growth were the U.S., southeast On Thursday, the company also said it Mulberry’s best-selling and production, as well as oversee corporate development of Asia and Japan, which generated has made space at its Somerset, England, Anthony bag. the Marika Group brands, which include the core Marika line, about 30 percent of total sales in the factory to increase U.K. production of pre- Balance Collection and Shiva Shakti Collection. period. mium leather bags. “For so long, Mulberry had been northern “We really wanted to protect our ‘Made in the European-focused, which is why we’re now see- U.K.’ products, which we think is essential if ing results from these new booming markets,” she you’re making luxury goods. The average age of said. Currently, about 55 percent of sales come our factory workers now is 53, so we’ve decided to Correction from retail channels, and 45 percent come from create our own labor pool,” said Montague. The last name of Igor Vander, director of public relations for wholesale. “In August, we’ll be taking on 10 apprentices, the JPG brand at Aeffe USA, was misspelled in a story on page As reported, Mulberry is fi nalizing the details and we’re hoping to increase our U.K. production 7, Wednesday. of a lease on Melrose Place in Los Angeles, where capacity by 60 percent over the next two years.” LIVE DAYTONA 500. EVERY DAY. DAYTONA 500 AND FLAG DESIGN ARE TRADEMARKS OF INTERNATIONAL SPEEDWAY CORP. SPEEDWAY 500 AND FLAG DESIGN ARE TRADEMARKS OF INTERNATIONAL DAYTONA

THE NEW FRAGRANCE FOR MEN 4 WWD, FRIDAY, JUNE 23, 2006 The Beauty Report Guerlain’s Swank Scent Hilfi ger and Lauder PARIS — Backed by Hollywood superstar Hilary more subdued,” said Linda Maiocco, vice president Swank, Guerlain is targeting a young consumer base of marketing for Guerlain. “Here, she’s very out there with a new fragrance called Insolence. as a modern, confi dent and daring woman.” Aim for Perfect 10 It is the fi rst time the brand has signed a celebrity “The idea was the beginning of the world, the Big to front a scent. Bang from a feminine perspective,” continued Boillot, NEW YORK — A little “She’s a very, very talented actress,” said Renato adding Guerlain wanted to present Swank as a mod- more than a decade after Semerari, president and chief executive offi cer of ern-day Venus. Tommy Hilfiger entered Guerlain. “She is more than just a spokeswoman for It’s a role Swank enjoyed. the fragrance business us. She was the muse for the project.” “My [movie] characters may not be ultra-femi- with the Estée Lauder “Hilary is the perfect match with the project and nine, so it’s great to show that side of me,” she said Cos., the designer is how we’re trying to position it,” at Insolence’s press launch in launching two scents cel- continued Pamela Baxter, presi- Paris. “Guerlain can see the ebrating the dawning of dent and ceo of the Perfumes and multifacets of women.” his beauty business. Cosmetics Group North America For 31-year-old Swank, the Tommy 10 and Tommy at LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis name Insolence “conjured up Girl 10 are due in Vuitton, which owns Guerlain. “It empowerment for women, a September. embodies spontaneity and a dar- woman who is independent and “On a global basis, this ing personality. It’s not just about allowed to follow her heart and is the 10-year anniversary connecting a face with the brand, her dreams.” of the Tommy and Tommy but a voice. As the face and voice, Swank, who until now has Girl fragrances, and it has The Tommy 10 ad visual. she’ll resonate with the younger shied away from endorsement been a very good ride,” consumer we are targeting.” deals, said it was “an honor and said Veronique Gabai-Pinsky, senior vice president “She is a feminine mix of a privilege to have my name as- and general manager of the Aramis and Designer Meryl Streep and Robert De sociated with the company. I did Fragrances division of the Estée Lauder Cos., noting Niro,” added Laurent Boillot, my research, and when I realized that the Hilfi ger franchise was Estée Lauder’s fi rst de- Guerlain’s international market- what Guerlain does for women, signer licensing agreement. ing director. “She is capable of how it has evolved with women Hilfi ger noted that in coming up with the scents, he transforming herself.” and helped women believe in and his team examined the heritage of the originals The signing of Swank played themselves, then I wanted to and reinterpreted them for a modern audience. “After another strategic role for the commit a million percent.” 10 years, we wanted to take our success and update company: to help expand the U.S. print advertising for it,” he said. “And we think we have a perfect 10 with brand’s image into the Anglo- the Insolence ad is planned for these two new fragrances.” Saxon market. September in 12 beauty and Originally, said Hilfi ger, the women’s fragrance was “Guerlain is very well known celebrity lifestyle magazines. very strong and the men’s was very spicy. The latest in France, with a quality image Hilary Swank at the Paris premiere. During the launch season, there incarnations, on the other hand, are “all about fresh- and notoriety, but it’s nonexis- will be about 100 million impres- ness and nature,” he said. tent in England and in the U.S.,” said Boillot. sions, 60 percent of which will be scented strips. In fact, said the designer, the two new fragrances While company executives would not comment on Additional advertising in the U.S. will include guer- are intended to embody “an American journey” — and projections, industry sources estimated that the fra- rilla marketing — fragrance sachets will be distribut- indeed, the notes of the two scents read like a road grance would generate more than $30 million world- ed at New York nightclubs and hotel bars. Ads will be trip in a bottle. Tommy Girl 10 has top notes of tart wide in retail sales and $15 million in the U.S. the launched over cell phones, through podcasts and via Nantucket cranberry, luscious Marion pear, sweet fi rst year. It is estimated that about $4 million will be text messages. Outdoor ads are also a possibility. Pixie tangerine and Indian River grapefruit; a heart spent on advertising and promotional events during Insolence is aimed at women aged around 25, who of Mississippi magnolia, California honeysuckle and the launch season. consume more fragrance than any other demograph- Virginia water lily, and a drydown of Vermont cream, For Insolence’s TV advertising, directed by John ic, according to company executives. butterscotch and Rocky Mountain birch. Mathieson, Swank — the Oscar-winning actress of “It’s for those consumers who say, ‘Guerlain’s a Tommy 10, for men, opens with notes of Seattle “Boys Don’t Cry” and “Million Dollar Baby” — showed great fragrance house but too classic for me,’ ” said rain, Hawaiian pineapple, Fresh Kentucky bluegrass her sexy side. In the 20- and 30-second spots, to debut Boillot. “The scent still evokes great luxury; it is and tart Cape Cod cranberry; has a heart of wet vio- in September, Swank is shown swaying. Flashes Guerlain, but it’s more extroverted.” let, Rocky Mountain blue spruce and Arizona saguaro of light illuminate a close-up of her face and the “We see this as an opportunity to bring in younger cactus fl ower, and has a drydown of Long Island drift- Insolence bottle. consumers as we build awareness of the brand in the wood, Vermont red maple wood and Wyoming cotton- Print ads, shot by Vincent Peters and featuring U.S. market,” said Baxter. wood, said Trudi Loren, vice president of corporate Swank and the Insolence bottle, will run as single and The fragrance, by Symrise’s Maurice Roucel, who fragrance development worldwide for Aramis and double pages. created L’Instant de Guerlain, and Guerlain’s Sylvaine Designer Fragrances. Loren developed the two scents “Typically, Guerlain advertisements are much Delacourte, belongs to the fruity fl oral family. A vi- in cooperation with Firmenich, which did the men’s brant top note of violet combines with fragrance, and Quest International, which produced midnotes of red berries, including rasp- the women’s fragrance. berry, used for the fi rst time in a Guerlain Both scents will be offered in reinterpretations of scent. Base notes for Insolence include the original bottles — more faceted and with a lower the house’s signature iris accords with profi le, noted Fabrice Weber, president of Aramis and tonka bean notes. Designer Fragrances. “It’s stronger than L’Instant,” said The men’s version will offer eaux de toilette in Boillot, referring to the last women’s fra- 1.7-oz. and 3.4-oz. bottles for $38 and $49.50, respec- grance Guerlain launched, in 2003. tively; the women’s scents, also eaux de toilette, will “Insolence still has the premium codes be priced at $39.50 for 1.7 oz. and $52 for 3.4 oz. No of Guerlain, but in terms of the concept ancillaries will be launched with the scents. and image, it is a bit trendier than L’Instant The Tommy 10 duo will be available in about 2,100 was,” said Semerari. “What is very impor- U.S. department and specialty store doors, as well as tant for us is to become a bit more visible.” on tommy.com. They will also be launched globally in “The fragrance is created for a very September. daring, confident and free-spirited The two scents will be kicked off with an adver- woman with a strong personality,” said tising campaign shot by Dewey Nicks at Montana Maiocco. de Oro State Park in Los Osos, Calif. The campaign Insolence’s glass bottle, designed by features models Parker Gregory and Esti, and three sculptor Serge Mansau, is like a spiral, images will be used: single shots of Parker and Esti made of three attached half-spheres and for the men’s and women’s scents, respectively, and designed to look like a whirlwind, a twirl- a masterbrand shot that shows the duo in a vintage ing dress or a fl ower unfolding. American car, looking ready to head off on a road trip. The scent comes in 30-, 50- and 100-ml. Advertising will break in September fashion, beauty, eau de toilette sprays for 41.50 euros, or lifestyle and men’s magazines, noted Carol Russo, se- $52.60 at current exchange rates; 58.30 nior vice president and general manager of sales and euros, or $73.90, and 84 euros, or $106.40, marketing, North America, for Aramis and Designer respectively. A 7.5-ml. fragrance extract Fragrances. Nicks also shot the original Tommy and will retail for 90 euros, or $114. Tommy Girl fragrance campaigns. Insolence will be launched in August While executives would not comment on project- in the U.S., where it will be available ed sales or advertising spending, industry sources in more than 1,600 doors, including estimated that the two scents together will do about Saks Fifth Avenue, Neiman Marcus and $30 million globally in their fi rst year — with about Bergdorf Goodman stores. In September, $10 million in retail sales projected for the U.S. the fragrance will be sold internationally. Advertising and promotional spending could reach — Jennifer Weil and Ellen Groves, $14 million globally, said industry sources. with contributions from — Julie Naughton Michelle Edgar in New York WWD, FRIDAY, JUNE 23, 2006 5

WWD.COM Shiseido Gears Up for Fall Lacoste’s New Inspiration

NEW YORK — Shiseido is planning to add juice cream said to clarify and moisturize skin. Citing NEW YORK — Procter & Gamble to its fall business with a cocktail of skin care and NPD Beauty data that calls brightening the num- Prestige Products plans to give color cosmetics introductions. ber-one growth opportunity in beauty for 2006, women a little inspiration at the The brand, which is available in about 900 Manheimer further noted that the category as a fragrance counters this fall. doors in the U.S., has seen continuous growth whole did $40.4 million at retail in 2005, up 18 That’s when the beauty during the past year, said Heidi Manheimer, pres- percent from 2004. Shiseido accounts for about giant will launch Lacoste ident of U.S. operations for Shiseido Cosmetics 9 percent of those sales, said Manheimer, adding Inspiration, a scent targeted (America) Ltd. Year-to-date, Shiseido’s business that Shiseido entered the category in 1917 with at women who “live life to is up 12.6 percent overall, with skin care up Shiseido Whitening Cucumber. The new entry the fullest,” according to 14.5 percent and color cosmetics up 8.3 percent, uses a mix of vitamin C to fade existing dark Markus Strobel, general Manheimer said, citing the brightening and men’s spots, the proprietary Spot Deacti-Complex to in- manager for P&G Prestige categories as two that have double-digit growth, hibit melanin production and prevent future age Products. “This scent is in part due to a building door count. spots, AE Complex to help the ingredients pen- about fl irting with life,” he Two of the company’s key products for the up- etrate the skin and plant fi bers to seal in ingredi- said. “The woman who wears coming fall season are Bio-Performance Super ents, said Manheimer. this fragrance will be multi- Exfoliating Discs, $64 for eight discs, and Bio- Manheimer said the company sees continued faceted, as the fragrance is.” Lacoste’s Inspiration. Performing Refi ning Essence, $74 for 50 ml., said opportunity in the men’s market, which Shiseido Moreover, the scent is in- Manheimer. Both will be launched in limited distribu- tended to be a female com- launched in September. tion in March 2005. The line, panion to Lacoste Essential, the men’s fragrance launched While microdermabrasion now in 515 doors in the U.S., this past spring in the U.S., noted Donald Loftus, president in skin care is not a new idea, will gain a cream in and chief executive offi cer of P&G Prestige Products Inc. Manheimer pointed out that September. The $22, 100-ml. “Lacoste as a fashion house has been rejuvenated,” said Shiseido waited until it could formula includes the pro- Loftus. “It’s become very hot. Essential is ranking in the top fi nd technology that delivers prietary Damage Defense fi ve men’s scents in the U.S., according to NPD, and we’re results with natural and non- Complex, an ingredient hoping for similar results for Inspiration.” abrasive ingredients. Given said to strengthen the skin’s Essential and Inspiration are also the fi rst fragrances to the size of the market, it was protective barrier; bio-hy- be launched by P&G Prestige Products, which regained the an easy decision: “Exfoliating aluronic acid, intended to license from on Jan.1. systems grew 46 percent in moisturize, and dipotassium The Inspiration juice, concocted by Quest International 2005, amounting to more than glycyrrhizate, said to help in cooperation with P&G Prestige Beauty, has top notes of $12 million in retail sales,” prevent razor burn. pomegranate, plum and mandarin; a heart of peony, jasmine said Manheimer, citing NPD On the color side, Shiseido and tuberose, and a drydown of vanilla and sandalwood. Beauty statistics. “It’s a quick- will launch Dual Balancing Eaux de parfum in two sizes — 1.6 oz. for $52 and 2.5 ly growing category, and one in August. oz. for $65 — will be offered, as will two ancillaries, a 5-oz. which offers Shiseido a great “Foundation is the number- shower gel for $25 and a 5-oz. body for $35. The fra- deal of opportunity.” one makeup category in the grance bottle is a heavy glass orb with the signature Lacoste The exfoliating discs — de- market and, according to crocodile and the fragrance’s name in graceful cursive writ- signed to be used once a week NPD, represented 25 percent ing. The juice is tinted a pale blue. The outer box is pale after skin is cleansed — are of total market color sales in blue and textured. powered by the proprietary 2005,” said Manheimer. Ten As with many of its fragrances, P&G is planning a two- Bio-Exfoliderm cocktail, shades of foundation will be tiered rollout for this scent. Inspiration will be launched which combines brewer’s Shiseido’s newest skin care products. offered, each retailing for in about 350 specialty stores, including Bloomingdale’s, yeast extract, TMG and rice $35. They will be comple- Neiman Marcus, Nordstrom, Saks Fifth Avenue and bran to break down the pro- mented by sticks in , in September. “We chose to launch where the fash- teins that bind old cells to the skin’s surface and three shades, each retailing for $25. Color creator ion brand is strongest,” explained Loftus. The door count polish the skin, she said. One side of the disc is Tom Pecheux has also created a fall color collec- will be boosted in October, when the fragrance launches to textured to aid in the exfoliation process, while the tion that will also be released in August. department stores. In total, Inspiration is slated for a full second side is smooth to help refi ne skin. To get the The cosmetics will gain a new face this fall, as distribution of 1,800 doors by yearend. word out to consumers, Shiseido plans to distribute well. Patricia Schmid, the Swiss model who was While P&G executives wouldn’t comment on projected upward of 150,000 samples in-store, said Tomoko discovered by photographer Mario Testino and sales or advertising spending, industry sources estimated Yamagishi-Dressler, vice president of marketing. Pecheux, will appear in Shiseido’s makeup imag- that Inspiration could do $20 million to $25 million at re- Bio-Performing Essence, which can be used in ery. National print advertising for color cosmetics tail in the U.S. in its fi rst year on counter, and that about tandem with the discs or alone, is a serum that is slated to begin in September fashion, beauty $5 million to $7 million will be spent on advertising and uses the proprietary Bio-Regenerine Technology and lifestyle magazines. promotion. — a mix of Bio-Energy Infuser, said to help in- While neither of the executives would com- National print advertising will begin appearing in crease skin’s vitality; Super Plant Bio-Exfoliant, ment on sales projections, industry sources esti- September fashion, beauty and lifestyle magazines, said designed to break down proteins that bind old mated that together, the new products could add Loftus. The image, shot by Ellen von Unwerth, shows a cells to the skin’s surface, and Rose Apple Leaf at least $12 million to Shiseido’s top line in the model playing in the rain. A TV campaign has also been Extract, which is said to help prevent the occur- U.S. in their fi rst year on counter, with the lion’s shot, although it has not yet been decided whether it will rence of environmentally induced skin damage. share to come from the exfoliating discs, the foun- run on U.S. TV; however, co-op TV with Macy’s for Christmas National advertising supporting the exfoliat- dation and the color cosmetics collection. As well, is likely, said Loftus. A sampling campaign is aimed at get- ing discs and the essence will break in October sources estimated that Shiseido would spend at ting 25 million scented strips and one million minis in vial fashion, beauty and lifestyle magazines, said least $4 million on advertising and promotional sprays into the hands of consumers, said Loftus. Yamagishi-Dressler. efforts in the second half of 2006 to support these — J.N. This fall, Shiseido will also introduce White launches. Lucent Brightening Moisturizing Cream, a $50 — Julie Naughton

Biotherm’s Moisture New Keeps It Light Intense Guard. NEW YORK — Biotherm is introducing a light moisturizer said to include all For the fi rst time, Biotherm, which is owned by L’Oréal, has the benefi ts of a thick cream with the fall launch of Moisture Intense Guard. created a skin care product tailored to the U.S. and U.K. “In the marketplace, customers are going for a moisturizer with a markets that will be sold only in those two countries. heavier texture,” said Roberta Weiss, senior vice president of marketing “Biotherm is at the forefront of this breakthrough technology at Biotherm USA. “Customers don’t need a heavy cream to feel hydrated. where we’re able to mimic the functioning of a cell membrane. What they need is to keep the moisture in. [The cream] is a combination of There are few products that hydrate and have insulation power intense hydration and protection from moisture loss.” without having a heavy texture of a rich traditional cream,” said Moisture Intense Guard, 1 oz. for $32, is designed to protect skin from Catherine Roggero, general manager of Biotherm USA. dehydration and retain its optimum moisture level. Launching in October, Biotherm targets a wide consumer base, generally between the hydrating formula contains Himalayan Pink Salt, an ingredient with the ages of 25 and 45. The moisturizer will launch in 300 over 70 minerals said to boost the skin’s natural metabolism and improve doors, at Macy’s, Nordstrom, Sephora, Bath & Body Works, C.O skin quality by maintaining the moisture level. The new cream also in- Bigelow, ULTA, Biotherm stores and at biotherm.com. cludes Bio-Polymer, an ingredient inspired by contact lens technol- Although there will be no print advertising, the company ogy known for retaining moisture, and Biotherm’s patented Vitreoscilla plans to sponsor promotional events titled “All Weather Wear” Ferment, found in all of Biotherm’s skin care products, intended to smooth and launch a direct-mail and sampling program to distribute and balance the skin. 400,000 items. “This is an oil-free solution for women with dry skin that want hydration Industry sources estimate Moisture Intense Guard will bring without being greasy,” said Weiss. “We see this as the next generation of in about $1 million in fi rst-year retail sales. hydration that can be used for all weather conditions.” — Michelle Edgar 6 WWD, FRIDAY, JUNE 23, 2006 The Beauty Report WWD.COM Molton Brown Begins U.S. Retail Push

NEW YORK — After opening two stores here It’s Thurlow’s aim to have the retail and 18 months ago, Molton Brown is embarking on wholesale sides of the business even. The a retail expansion to put 30 stores in the U.S. plan is to increase the U.S. business so that by 2010 — at a rate of roughly six new shops it’s “as large or larger than the U.K. and annually. Europe in fi ve years,” said Thurlow. The company’s pair of New York proto- The U.S. retail expansion plan will fol- types, at Madison Avenue at 53rd Street, and low similar strategies executed in the U.K., a at Third Avenue at 64th Street, “have ex- market that had been focused on wholesale, ceeded expectations,” said Robert Thurlow, but now has 36 Molton Brown stores. chief executive offi cer of Molton Brown USA. The emphasis in Asia, as it was in the U.S. Thurlow, 44, noted that the Madison Avenue since the mid-Nineties, is now on the whole- unit had comp-store growth of 33 percent, and sale side of the business. But it’s expected the Third Avenue store had comps of 31 per- Molton Brown’s Asian business also will cent. Sources originally projected the shops evolve to include company-owned stores. would have annual sales of $1.5 million and There is one store in Singapore and “more $1 million, respectively. [stores in Asia] to follow,” said Thurlow. “Now, we have the green light for more Molton Brown, based in London and said stores across the U.S.,” said Thurlow, adding, to generate annual revenues of $125 million “Asia and the U.S. have the biggest growth po- globally, was acquired last July by Kao Corp., tential [for Molton Brown], with the U.S. being which had sales of over $3 billion in 2005. the most important for the company.” Molton Brown is part of Kao’s Prestige unit First on the agenda are two August open- and will soon be joined in that division by ings, one in SoHo here and one in King Kanebo, which Kao bought earlier this year. of Russia, Pa. They will be followed by a Molton Brown’s Madison Avenue shop September opening in Short Hills, N.J., and here and the planned SoHo store fi t into the a fall 2007 opening at the planned Mall at “fl agship” format of stores that carry the full Oyster Bay in Syosset, N.Y. Molton Brown assortment of bath and body The four stores are expected to generate care, skin care, color cosmetics, men’s groom- sales of about $1,200 to $1,400 per square foot, ing, candles, leather goods and cashmere or nearly $5 million in sales, according to in- throws. Of the 30 locations planned by 2010, dustry sources. The Spring Street location Molton Brown’s Madison Avenue fl agship. as many as eight could be fl agships, accord- will be more than 1,000 square feet and the ing to Thurlow. other three will be slightly smaller — about 850 square feet each. Future Molton The men’s side of Molton Brown’s business has grown 30 to 40 percent year-over- Brown shops will be in the 800-to 1,000-square-foot range, according to Thurlow, who year, according to Thurlow. In late June, the brand will launch 10 men’s products, is eyeing Boston; Greenwich, Conn.; Washington; Miami; Bal Harbor, Fla.; Chicago, bringing the brand’s full men’s assortment to 16 items, including shower gel, sham- and San Francisco for new stores through 2008. poo, scrubs, sport spray and hair texturizer. Men’s accounts for about 30 percent of Molton Brown USA does about $22.5 million in annual sales, according to indus- the brand’s sales. try sources, a third of it generated by the boutiques. The rest comes from a U.S. With Kao’s research and development muscle behind it, Molton Brown plans to wholesale business that comprises 200 doors, including Barneys New York, Neiman phase out in 2008 its current skin care collection for an entirely new assortment. Marcus, C.O. Bigelow, Nordstrom, Bloomingdale’s and Blue Mercury. — Matthew W. Evans Noxzema Develops a Personality Child’s Play: Le Petit Prince Does Scents NEW YORK — Babies may smell naturally sweet, but some European consumers By Andrea Nagel have taken to dabbing a touch of perfume behind their wee ones’ tiny ears. BerjangUSA, a U.S. distributor, seeks to bring that European practice NEW YORK — Noxzema is sporting a savvy Limited- Stateside by introducing of a line of fragrances and products new attitude, and its fresh, updated look edition based on the children’s book “Le Petit Prince.” Best known in the U.S. as “The could help the brand pull it off. Noxzema Little Prince,” the book was written by Antoine de Saint-Exupéry and was fi rst The 102 year-old face cleansing brand, jars. published in 1943. owned by Procter & Gamble Co., had a The French fragrance fi rm UniPar introduced the range of Le Petit Prince French illustrator based in Germany create products — tailored for children zero to 10 years old — in France nine years sexy, cheeky, clever characters to appeal to ago. Today, the line’s fi ve brands — including Le Petit Prince, La Rose du today’s smart shopper. The three “women,” Petit Prince, Le Petit Prince B612, Dessine Moi un Mouton and Les each with different interests and Triples — are found in 1,300 shops across Europe. The collection’s cultural background, were de- European sales for last year exceeded 1.5 million euros, or $1.9 signed to pull shoppers back to million at current exchange, with worldwide sales totaling 2.5 mil- the brand they fi rst used in their lion, or $3.2 million. junior high school years. Now, BerjangUSA forecasts the timing is right There’s Brigid, 25, a ballet to make a bid for the U.S. market. “Americans instructor who wears a bob and are ready for European trends,” said Maziar lives in Miami; Zoe, a 25-year- Aghalarpour, executive director of BerjangUSA, re- old fourth-grade teacher with ferring to children’s fragrances. Aghalarpour com- long, wavy hair who lives in San mented that his fi ve-year-old daughter puts a Francisco, and Monique, 23, an dab of La Rose du Petit Prince, a girl’s fra- aspiring actress with naturally grance with notes of clementine and grape- curly, textured hair who lives in fruit peel, on her neck each morning. Brooklyn. The aim is to gain ground in 200 to 250 “Creating the characters was a way to visualize beauty, a way to bring beauty high-end baby boutiques and department to life in a non-conventional way,” said Amy Spera, brand manager for Noxzema. stores in the U.S. this fall. If all goes as “We are focusing on the emotional side of the brand.” planned, the company expects the products New print ads featuring the character fi rst appeared in select May beauty mag- to generate fi rst-year retail sales of $500,000 azines. A full launch of the ads is planned for July magazines. Ads also have been to $750,000. created for malls, restaurants, nightclubs and billboards. A Web site features the He acknowledged that Americans may be characters and explains the brand’s new hip positioning. Two Le Petit Prince scents. a bit skittish about children’s scents, but said: Industry sources estimate P&G is spending $15 million to $25 million on “It’s not harmful. It’s beautiful. The packaging is Noxzema’s advertising push, and the effort appears to be paying off. In the past what will attract the kids, the name will attract the parents.” three months, sales of Noxzema have grown nearly 15 percent, according to P&G. Like its target audience, the market for children’s scents is tiny. Over the past six months, P&G added, the brand has captured an additional share Euromonitor estimates U.S. sales of children’s fragrances have held steady at point in the face cleansing category, to a 7.7 percent dollar share. $20 million for the last few years. But BerjangUSA sees opportunities in the Complementing the ads are limited-edition Noxzema jars sporting the country’s burgeoning birth rate. According to U.S. Census data, there were Noxzema illustrated characters. Spera said the new advertising, not a change in more than four million babies born in 2004. formula, is driving sales. The company will offi cially introduce the Le Petit Prince range and its orig- “We were chasing the technology trends, but it is pretty easy to get [consum- inal scent, Le Petit Prince Spray, at Cosmoprof North America next month. ers] back when we talk about how [Noxzema once] made them feel,” said Spera. The $26 spray, or $28 for the alcohol-free version, is housed in a frosted glass “We’re getting lost users back.” bottle decorated with an illustration of Le Petit Prince. It contains notes of cit- While the heart of Noxzema’s business is still its tub of tingling cleansing rus fruits, tarragon, verbena, cedarwood and oak. The company plans to host cream, a bevy of products has been launched over the past fi ve years, including book readings this fall in New York and Los Angeles to present the fragrances the Triple Clean acne line and a face-cleansing line with a citrus fragrance, which to U.S. consumers. is lighter than the traditional eucalyptus, camphor and menthol blended scent. — Molly Prior NOXZEMA PHOTO BY JOHN AQUINO; PRINCE BY THOMAS IANNACCONE JOHN AQUINO; PRINCE BY NOXZEMA PHOTO BY WWD, FRIDAY, JUNE 23, 2006 7

WWD.COM Buyers, Beauty Firms to Convene at NACDS ECRM: CVS, Jason NEW YORK — Retailers are pack- Items from To Test Natural Set ing their bags for San Diego and the Pantina. National Association of Chain Drug By Andrea Nagel Stores’ Marketplace Meeting that kicks off June 24. Marketplace is the biggest AVENTURA, Fla. — Hair care buyers and gathering in the mass market industry manufacturers converged to the Sunshine of suppliers and merchants. The buyers State to discuss the latest opportunities in attending represent more than 100,000 doors with sales ex- the HBA aisle at Efficient Collaborative ceeding $540 billion. Retail Marketing’s Efficient Program Once again, buyers expect to be bombarded with new Planning Sessions last week. beauty lines. In fact, most manufacturers anticipate retail- One of the biggest pieces of news to ers will be looking for interesting new products to bring emerge at the show is the collaboration of life back to the cosmetics department. This is especially Jason Natural Products, a division of The the case since some of the major new launches are not per- Hain Celestial Group, with CVS to create forming as well as expected. an 8-foot set of natural products in 300 se- Wendy Chang, vice president of product development for lect CVS stores in California, according to Pantina, knows just what it is like to be one of those small Laura Setzfand, Jason’s director of market- companies hoping for a nod from a major chain. Just last ing. Jason, the maker of organic hair, bath year at Marketplace in New Orleans, Chang launched her and body items, provided the retailer with line called Pantina. Although it hasn’t been easy, Pantina names of a number of brands it should fea- has secured precious footage in several retailers. Most ture in the set, including Nature’s Gate, Alba recently, Duane Reade took on several Pantina items, in- and Avalon, to give organics the presence cluding Pantina’s Spring Look Books, nail lacquers and ers will be looking for fresh ideas for their beauty walls at they need to make a statement with consum- Extremely Glossy . Pantina is also being sold at Marketplace. “Some retailers are already looking at changes ers. While many mass retailers stock natu- Albertsons, Brooks-Eckerd and Rite Aid. for 2007. Some are disappointed with how the new brands ral-type products, the CVS/Jason deal marks Many new companies launch at meetings such as are doing and they are rethinking and strategizing,” she said. a fi rst for the industry with a dedicated in- Marketplace; not all weather the demands of the mass mar- She’s also eyeing international growth, especially in Asia. line range to feature a number of industry- ket. Buyers said Pantina delivered a line mimicking depart- Pantina is a family-owned company that has produced known organic brands traditionally sold in ment and specialty store lines such as . Chang added private label cosmetics for high-end beauty companies for Whole Foods and Wild Oats. that Pantina also brings newness to the category, since almost 20 years. Other show standouts in- packages and colors are changed by the season. Several first-time beauty exhibitors hope to be the cluded new items in the men’s To keep ahead of the game, Pantina is going the next step Pantina success story of this year’s gathering: section of stores, most notably to add more benefi ts to its beauty products. There will be ● AMC Beauty, which produces fragrance and body prod- by King of Shaves with their a mineral line added that brings the healthy positioning of ucts, including Fusion, based on the daytime soap “All My new Fish hair care line. Phil mineral makeup to mass. “It’s not easy to be a new vendor. Children.” Williams, president of sales You really have to come up with new ideas that are different ● Natural product companies Avalon Beauty and Juice and marketing for the com- so your product stands out,” said Chang. She cited her fi rm’s Beauty, who hope the mass market customer is ready for an pany, was pitching buyers Shake It Baby, a shimmering dust powder, as an example of invasion of natural beauty lines. on the fi ve-item Fish line an item producing more than 70 percent sell-through. ● Beauty Bureau, which markets scented sticks and targeting 16- to 34-year-olds. Pricing on Pantina ranges from $4 to $7 — a key range for diffusers, and Jean Pierre Cosmetics, which offers beauty The line, which includes a the mass market that avoids the pricing pitfalls many new wipes. Sportfi sh Hair & Body Wash, lines are facing. “The mass market is pricing itself too high Once again, NACDS will feature Meet the Market gather- a Fishshape Shaping Cream in many cases. Once you get up to $12, shoppers might as ings where retailers attend eight-minute, one-on-one meet- and a Fishfi ngers Molding well go to Sephora,” said industry consultant Allan Mottus. ings with smaller vendors. Entertainment will be provided Wax, is currently a $4.5 Like many smaller manufacturers, Chang expects retail- by Kenny Loggins. The event wraps up June 27. million brand in the U.K., where it launched last year. A Fish salon is planned for New York City; a location is currently being scouted. Nad’s Sees Smooth Road Ahead Within ethnic hair care, standouts included Advanced By Kavita Daswani cluding the Landing Strip and the Heart Breaker — for Beauty System’s Chris Ellin Lavar personalized bikini . McClain, a former Wal-Mart hair care items LOS ANGELES — Nad’s, the Australian “It’s very popular among younger women,” said Ismiel, buyer, who discussed the will enter brand that is in some 30,000 doors throughout the U.S. adding that the kit, along with the other new products, has company’s Cantu line, a shea drugstores. and 150,000 worldwide, is capitalizing on the Brazilian already bowed in Australia, where it has sold 250,000 units. butter-based hair care range waxing trend and is expanding distribution by entering For women who want to take their waxing on the road, which also includes a premixed relaxer. TV regional chains this summer. Ismiel came up with Hair Removal Strips in two sizes for spots scheduled to break in July and August Based on its core product, Natural Hair Removal Gel, the face and body, and a Facial Wand designed to shape will help support Cantu, which uses bronze- which launched in Australia 14 years ago and in the U.S. the eyebrows and remove hair around the upper lip and colored packaging and upscale photo imagery. in 1998, the company will be introducing several new de- chin. A Hair Removal Essentials Kit also is designed The celebrity hairstylist-to-mass trend, pilatory products, including one that taps into the for traveling, and includes seven key depilatory items. while losing steam, is gaining another play- Brazilian wax craze, as well as a line There also will be a new Depileze er. Upper West Side salon owner Ellin Lavar for men. Soothing Balm with cocoa and is taking her hair care line, which caters to Sue Ismiel, the Sydney-based shea butters and vitamin A. textured hair, to drugstores this year. Lavar, owner and founder of Nad’s — The new products retail from who recently sold a stake in her company named after her daughter, Nadine, less than $9.99 to around $29.99. to Woodridge Labs, will launch 12 items, in- who’s now a biochemist for the line Henry Kiwarkis, president of cluding star item Liquid Glass, which uses — said that a recent restructuring U.S. Operations for LifeSource, pequi oil and maracuja (passion fruit emol- of the company’s U.S. operations the company under which Nad’s lient) in the antifrizz, heat-activated styling will provide a launching pad for the is produced and distributed, said gel. Lavar also is scheduled to appear in brand’s upcoming rollout. the line’s traditional distribution a TV show on the Women’s Entertainment Last October, the company took outlets of food, drug and grocery network beginning September 6. The show, control of its U.S. distribution, set- stores nationwide is being ex- called “Hair Trauma,” will air Wednesday ting up headquarters in Torrance, panded to include greater pene- nights at 10 p.m., and will focus on the in- Calif. All of the packaging — which Nad’s for men. tration in regional chains. With a pres- teraction of the stylists in her salon, many once varied among different parts of ence in stores such as Target, Kmart, CVS of whom are members of her family. the world — was made uniform. and Rite Aid, Nad’s would be entering key General market hair care players also “We then decided to create a whole line of products regional chains such as New York-based Duane Reade made a presence at ECRM, including that fi t in with the cycle of hair removal, including pre- and East Coast group Price Chopper, Kiwarkis said. Freeman Beauty Lab’s new Sea Kelp hair paring the skin, soothing and exfoliating,” said Ismiel. Kiwarkis said he was optimistic about sales of the new care line, a fi ve-item range using sea kelp The products, which will hit shelves in July, include items. in formulas and also featuring an underwa- Ingrow Solution, designed to release ingrown hairs and “We are expecting between $30 million and $35 million ter picture of sea kelp on the bottle’s front. containing witch hazel and aloe vera. There is also the in retail sales for the fi rst year,” he said. Vogue International pitched its new nat- new Xfol Follicle Release Scrub, packed with natural The company is branching into the men’s arena with ural hair care line, Organix, a sulfate-free sugar crystals and walnut shells that act as a natural ex- similar products housed in more masculine packaging. line modeled against Philosophy products, foliant. The HandsFree Hair Removal Cremes come in These include the strips, creams and wax kits. to be displayed in lighted endcaps in select Mellow Melon and Luscious Lime, and include foam ap- “The formulations are designed for stronger hair,” Walgreens stores. The displays, said Todd plicator heads for an easy delivery system. Ismiel said. “If we position ourselves as hair removal ex- Christopher, founder, president and chief Ismiel is especially enthusiastic about the new perts, then we have to give the market what it wants.” executive of Vogue, glide into a perma- Naughty Nad’s Bikini Design Kit, which comes in bright Ismiel added that she and her daughter anticipate nent wing, making it fl exible for retailers. red packaging, not the original blue for the rest of the launching a skin care and color line as early as the fi rst “They give the brand an organic feeling,” line. The kit includes templates in different shapes — in- quarter of 2007. Christopher said.

10 WWD, FRIDAY, JUNE 23, 2006

The HBA Report WWD.COM L’Oréal Professionnel Plays Ball SNIPPETS NEW YORK — L’Oréal Professionnel is taking on styling in a big way. Playball The salon brand, owned by L’Oréal USA, is rolling out two new styling items EVANGELISTA JOINS CORNELIA: Hairstylist David Evangelista styling lines under its Textureline brand this fall. First there’s are packaged will be heading Cornelia Day Resort’s hair salon, which Playball, a line of three styling aids packaged in rubber contain- in containers will be renamed David Evangelista at Cornelia Day Resort ers with a base that bounces off surfaces. Each item targets a dif- that bounce. to refl ect the appointment. Evangelista has just begun ferent styling need. Beachcreme is a textured cream designed accepting appointments — he is working from the salon to create a natural, tousled look. Formulas contain beeswax for on a summer schedule for now — and will be there full- control and to leave a matte fi nish on hair. Deviationpaste has time beginning in August. Cornelia Day Resort operates on been designed to deconstruct short and medium-length hair. The the top two fl oors of the Ferragamo fl agship, at 663 Fifth water-based paste contains kaolin clay, which helps give hair a Avenue. New clients’ cuts begin at $350. matte look. Then there’s Motiongelee, a whipped cream- wax that sculpts hair and leaves it shiny, with the help BERGDORF BEAUTY: This summer, Bergdorf Goodman’s of lightweight silicones and styling polymers. Each Buff Spa will use a trio of products from Boots’ Botanics item retails for $16 and will be available in salons collection for and . Botanics is one beginning in July. of Boots’ seven lines available in the U.S. exclusively Specifically designed for textured hair is through select CVS and Target stores. And while the Hairmix, a three-item range designed to add Boots assortment will soon roll out chainwide at CVS, shine, moisture and control. the products currently have no presence in Manhattan. “Botanics is exclusive because it has such limited distribution,” said Buff Spa founder Deborah Hardwick. Hairmix targets “All the boundaries of mass and class have blurred,” she multiethnic consumers. continued. From July through Labor Day, all mani/pedis — save for the Guinot Paris — will include Botanics Smoothing Foot Scrub, Overnight Foot Treatment and Overnight Hand & Nail Cream. Buff Spa’s hand and Supremesmooth is a smoothing cream formulated foot treatments range from $33 to $120. with ceramides, mango and almond oil to smooth hair for straightening, as well as to protect it from harmful HEALTHY PARAFFIN: Oasis Day Spa is the fi rst spa in New heat styling tools. Spiralblendor uses glycerine and co- York City to offer PerfectSense Paraffi n & Aromatherapy, conut oil to hydrate hair, and wheat protein to smooth a technology that ensures a germ-free paraffi n manicure the cuticle surface on dry, wiry hair. Sublimeshine con- and . How? Since the service offers single-use, tains avocado and grape seed oil to help hair shine and disposable paraffi n gloves and boots, hands and feet are no to tame frizz. Each item in Hairmix retails for $14.95 longer subjected to the risk of bacterial cross-contamination and will be available in salons in July. breeding in vats of wax. Oasis is offering PerfectSense With the launch of Playball and Hairmix, L’Oréal — a brand being dubbed “the new standard for paraffi n” Professionnel plans to target 3,000 new salon doors in — as an add-on service to massages and , as well as addition to its existing units and expects to generate manicures and pedicures, for $15. Spa Revolutions, which $6 million in retail sales by yearend, said Stephanie makes PerfectSense Paraffi n, is based in Escondido, Calif. Peigne, assistant vice president, marketing. L’Oréal Professionnel has also tapped celebrity THAI YOGA TREATMENT AT MANDARIN: The Mandarin Oriental hairstylist Bob Recine, who will train stylists. spa will introduce Thai yoga massage, shiatsu, mat shiatsu “He loves Textureline since he needs to use prod- and private one-on-one yoga sessions this fall in a newly ucts that offer fl exibility when he is on shoots and doing designed yoga room that will have an infi nity-edge soaking runway,” said Peigne. Recine will conduct classes for tub and a steam room with a lemongrass and ginger aroma. about 100 stylists in July and August at the company’s “Our vision was to have an authentic feeling that you’re training center in SoHo here. “He’ll be teaching tech- in Thailand when entering the new space,” said Denise niques, how to use the products, showing the different Vitiello, Mandarin Oriental’s New York spa director. The results you can achieve,” Peigne said. spa partnered with Kam Tai Chow, founder and director — Andrea Nagel of Lotus Palm, based in Canada, to create the signature massage, featuring yoga postures and guided stretching with acupressure designed to relieve joint and muscle tension.

COLOMER TAPS EASTON: Dan Easton has been named vice president of sales and marketing for Roux and ABBA Mizani Aims to Smooth Out Hair Pure & Natural Hair Care, two professional brands under Colomer USA. In this position, which becomes effective By Andrea Arterbery July 1, Easton will be responsible for the day-to-day business operations of both brands and will work with NEW YORK — Mizani is going natural with the launch the Colomer USA research and development, legal and of a product line, ThermaSmooth, next month. creative services divisions to provide strategic direction The products are designed for African-American and to guide the development of marketing programs and women who want to make their natural, textured new products. Easton most recently was vice president of hair straight, bringing the company, a division of business development for Colomer’s American Crew. L’Oréal USA, into a new market that “represents nearly 40 percent of African-American women,” TAKASHIMAYA FEATURES KANEBO: Kanebo’s new Sensai said Taydra Mitchell-Jackson, vice president of Premier Eye Cream ($320 for .5 oz.) will be available at marketing for Mizani. specialty retailer Takashimaya in August, where the brand’s Mitchell-Jackson said the company, which usu- luxury facials are also offered. Takashimaya will carry ally creates products for women that contain chem- the company’s new antiaging foundation range under the ical relaxers, found through extensive research Sensai Cellular Performance brand — the backbone of that more African-American women are looking for Kanebo’s product range and one that’s more competitively ways to wear their curly-to-straight styles without priced — at $85 for Cream Foundation and $90 for the added damage that can sometimes occur from Powder Foundation. heat-styling tools. “We found that women want in- tense protection, and ThermaSmooth is designed to DERM DOCTOR: From a dermatological “think tank” to sterilized protect the elasticity of their hair over time, which operating rooms for facelifts and liposuction, dermatologist is a huge benefi t,” she said. Neil Sadick aims to bring what he describes as “beauty ThermaSmooth includes a four-step regimen: a in the next decade” to Manhattan with the opening of the Conditioning to moisturize and detangle the Sadick Dermatology Center, located at 911 Park Avenue. The hair; a Straightening Conditioner to strengthen and center, which opened this month, offers several personalized hydrate; a Smooth Guard styling treatment to be used treatments for the face and body with an antiaging arsenal of with heat-styling tools, and a Shine Extend Finisher laser, light and radio-frequency source technologies. to maximize shine and extend the life of smooth hair. Mizani’s ThermaSmooth line. The hair care items are sold exclusively at salons; PARLUX PUZZLE: Parlux has responded to a $29-a-share Mizani is sold in approximately 5,000 doors. buyout offer by company chairman and chief executive Mitchell-Jackson estimates that the new line expected to grow Mizani’s overall business by 25 per- offi cer Ilia Lekach. In a response letter sent June 20, will not grow as large as the company’s chemical cent in its fi rst year, according to Mitchell-Jackson. Parlux’s independent committee of directors stated that relaxer business, but it is expected to equal at least To promote the items, the company is offering an the committee “does not believe it is prudent for Parlux to half of it. “Overall, there is a $400 million to $600 in-salon treatment, which will range in price from move forward to consider the transaction” and questioned million potential for the natural hair care market, $50 to $100, depending on the salon. Consumers a proposed breakup fee. PF Acquisition of Florida, which and this is a segment for that,” she said. may also purchase a ThermaSmooth maintenance is owned by Lekach, responded by stating it does not Although chemical relaxers represent half of the kit, which includes travel-size bottles of the prod- expect the Parlux committee to incur any expenses until its company’s business, the launch of ThermaSmooth is ucts, for $20 at salons nationwide. fi nancing is secure. PHOTOS BY JOHN AQUINO PHOTOS BY WWD, FRIDAY, JUNE 23, 2006 11 WWD.COM Al Shapiro Exiting Claiborne Framework for Doha an Uphill Climb By Evan Clark By Julee Greenberg WASHINGTON — Trade ministers meeting in Geneva next week in an attempt to NEW YORK — Al Shapiro, senior vice president of corporate marketing for Liz hammer out a basic framework for the World Trade Organization’s Doha talks Claiborne Inc., will retire on June 30 after nearly 12 years with the firm. have their work cut out for them, as illustrated by new draft text on how reduc- Shapiro joined the company in 1994, the same year as Paul Charron, chairman ing tariffs on industrial goods, including textiles and apparel, will be handled. and chief executive offi cer, who is also retiring at the end of the year. In his introduction to the draft, Don Stephenson, the Canadian WTO ambassador Throughout his tenure, Shapiro had a major hand in the development of mar- who is head of the negotiating committee for industrial goods, said there has been keting for Claiborne’s stable of brands. He introduced and developed advertis- a failure “to fi nd consensus on many important issues.” The same could be said for ing strategies for the Liz Claiborne brand, which had not previously done any the whole trade round, which has been held up primarily over agricultural issues. advertising. Stephenson’s comments accompanying the draft text for industrial goods cast Shapiro said that although he is retiring, he most likely will stay in the busi- doubt on a Turkish proposal for separate apparel and textiles talks that might ness as a consultant. result in higher tariffs than those on other industrial goods. “It has been my good fortune to be a part of a transformation that made history “While this proposal enjoys the support of some [WTO] members, it is also in our industry,” Shapiro said. “During my career, I have rarely, if ever, been asso- fi rmly opposed by many others,” he said. “It is clear that the proponents will be ciated with people so committed to being the best and to succeeding, regardless challenged to garner suffi cient support for this proposal.” of how challenging and complex the business environment.” Auggie Tantillo, executive director of the American Manufacturing Trade Prior to Claiborne, Shapiro worked for Bozell Jacobs Kenyon & Eckhart, an Action Coalition, bristled at the comment and vowed to continue the push for advertising agency here. apparel and textiles to be treated independently. “Al has been a central fi gure in the transformation of our company,” said “It’s just nonsense to include this type of editorial statement in a report with- Charron in an e-mailed statement. “His broad perspective and professional in- in this context,” Tantillo said. sights into evolving consumer behavior have been most important inputs as we AMTAC and other textile concerns want so-called “sectoral” talks in order to pro- charted our own course here at Liz from 1994 on.” tect the domestic industry and its customers in the Western Hemisphere, particular- Claiborne is considering internal and external candidates to replace ly from low-cost imports from non-market economies such as China and Vietnam. Shapiro. Lori O’Rourke, vice president of advertising and research, will as- U.S. offi cials have so far avoided clear support for separate talks. sume temporary responsibility for corporate marketing functions, including “At this point, we don’t know what will be the best way to deal with these creative resources, advertising, research, corporate communications, public complicated textile and apparel issues, and so what we want to do is to continue relations and multimedia. O’Rourke will report to Trudy Sullivan, president of the discussion with all of the parties involved and not prejudge exactly what the Liz Claiborne Inc. form of a solution would be,” Deputy U.S. Trade Representative Peter Allgeier said on a conference call with reporters. Stephen Lamar, senior vice president of the American Apparel & Footwear Association, said, “They’re very far from endorsing this. If they really wanted to put some juice behind this, you would have seen them come out with a much Texas Fashion Collection on Display stronger statement.”

By Holly Haber DALLAS — Fashion history is coming to downtown Dallas. Republicans Defend Plan to Take The University of North Texas plans to share with the public a collection that has grown to 15,000 pieces when it opens an exhibition space on Sept. 21 called Fashion Immigration Issue on the Road on Main. The facility will be located off the lobby of the Universities Center at Dallas, a cooperative at 1901 Main By Kristi Ellis Street where six state universities offer graduate classes. “I’m so excited, I can’t believe it’s true,” said Myra WASHINGTON — In a striking show of force, the core of House Republican lead- Walker, director of the Texas Fashion Collection, who has ership defended their plan to hold a series of summer hearings on two vastly worked for two years to secure the space. “It is time to different immigration bills — a move Democrats charge is an attempt to quash share our treasures…and work toward the longtime goal immigration reform this year — and insisted their intent is to send a compro- of establishing a fashion museum and resource center in mise bill to the president’s desk this year. Dallas.” House GOP leaders said at a news conference Thursday that they were not The collection was started in 1938 by the late retail using delay tactics to block immigration reform, but were holding hearings to guru Stanley Marcus and his brother, Edward, so it’s fi t- outline differences between the House and Senate immigration bills. ting that the new gallery is only two blocks from Neiman “We want to make sure Congress gets this done right and not be rushed just Marcus headquarters. The pieces date from the 19th cen- because it’s an election year,” said House Speaker Dennis Hastert (R., Ill.). tury to the present and are highlighted by fashions from He said the goal is “to write a bill in conference that protects the American Balenciaga, Givenchy, Norman Norell, James Galanos, people and we can send an immigration bill to the president this year.” Oscar de la Renta and Balmain by Oscar de la Renta, Hastert announced earlier this week that leaders would take immigration re- hundreds of which were donated by Mercedes Bass, a form on the road from Washington, D.C., to California in July and August, instead Texas socialite and philanthropist. of going straight into conference to reconcile the differences, a move critics said The estimated 500-square-foot space will open with was highly unusual. “Flights of Fancy,” a show of 25 to 30 looks and acces- A James It is expected to be a diffi cult task to reconcile the Senate bill, which tightens sories festooned with feathers, Walker said. She hopes to Galanos border security, creates a guest worker program and allows a path for citizenship raise funds for a permanent home for the collection on a dress from for the estimated 11 million to 12 million illegal immigrants in this country, with fl oor of the downtown building. the Texas the House’s border enforcement measure, which would make it a felony to be in “Dallas is a fashion-oriented city, and a great fashion Fashion the country without documentation. The House bill does not contain provisions museum is in the same category as a great art museum,” Collection. for a guest worker program or citizenship opportunities. said Heidi Dillon, who started a nonprofi t group called Holdings hearings this summer would postpone any Senate-House conference the Fashionistas to raise money for a museum. “It adds to the quality of life and on immigration legislation until the fall at the earliest, and could dampen the defi nes who we are.” prospects of getting a bill done this year. The Fashionistas, with more than 200 members, is sponsoring the initial open- “Our goal here is to get a bill,” said House Majority Leader John Boehner (R., ing and wants to raise $200,000 to glamorize the space, Dillon said. Ohio). “We strongly support an initiative to secure our borders, and provide addi- The collection will stay housed at the University of North Texas’ School of tional resources to federal and state authorities that strengthens border security.” Visual Arts on the main campus in Denton, about 35 miles northwest of Dallas. Boehner invoked the mantra of conservative Republicans earlier in the day,

PHOTO BY ABRAHAM BENCID/COURTESY OF THE TEXAS FASHION COLLECTION OF THE TEXAS FASHION BENCID/COURTESY ABRAHAM PHOTO BY calling provisions in the Senate bill “amnesty” and indicating that House lead- ers are unwilling to settle for a guest worker program or a path to citizenship for illegal immigrants in a compromise bill. Rep. James Sensenbrenner Jr. (R., Wis.) said, “There are some who suggest… Gant, Jeffrey in Exclusive Men’s Deal these hearings are designed to slow the bill down. That is not the case.” He pointed the fi nger at the Senate, maintaining it was holding up the con- NEW YORK — Gant, a brand primarily known for its all-American preppy looks, ference committee because of procedural issues. Democrats have been hurling has joined forces with the venerable retailer Jeffrey to create an exclusive men’s accusations at Republicans over immigration all week. collection. Both parties are considering developing a women’s collection together Senate Democratic Leader Harry Reid (D., Nev.), during a fl oor debate Wednesday for spring. on a measure to increase the minimum wage, which failed, said: “Let’s be perfectly Initially, the men’s limited assortment will consist of fresh takes on button- clear. This idea of fi eld hearings is just a front, an attempt to delay, impede and ob- down shirts and rugby shirts — the original products Gant started with in its struct a bipartisan effort to strengthen our borders and fi x the immigration system. early days in New Haven in 1949. The slim-fi tting button-down shirts will retail “The House doesn’t need hearings to name conferees. The only reason they for $175 and will be offered in seven different fabrics. The all-cotton rugby [want] hearings is to pander to the right-wing base of their party and avoid hard shirts will retail for $195 and will be offered in six different fabrics. work in negotiations….It’s been clear for weeks now that the House Republicans Gant chief executive offi cer Ari Hoffman said, “There is no better place to have no intention of passing an immigration bill this year.” reintroduce the icons of our brand than at the icon of luxury boutiques.” House Democratic Leader Nancy Pelosi (D., Calif.) said at her weekly news In a statement, Jeffrey Kalinsky, owner of Jeffrey, said, “We set out to capture briefi ng Thursday that “Republicans have to kick this issue down the road the essence of Gant that I remember from childhood — the classic button-down and they are taking it out of Washington and probably past the election [in with simple and understated details, and the perfect rugby shirt that fi ts exactly November]. That’s a failure.” how you want it to.” Asked whether Democrats would join Republicans and participate in the The line will hit the Jeffrey sales fl oor this November, for the holiday season. hearings over the summer, Pelosi said: “We won’t be missing in the debate.” 12 marked, aswella distribution centerinWilkes-Barre, rights overthefl of theirtotalvolumes, between20to25percent. and SaksFifth Avenue, generatefargreaterpercentages Other bigManhattanfl or 10percentofthechain’s total volumeof$1.4billion. $400 million,andaccountsforabout$140 million insales, it doesnottoredevelopit.” There istoomuchvalueinthebuilding forthevolume ing. They’llredevelopitintooffi erty. “Theywill defi from now,” saidanothersource familiarwiththeprop- fl redeveloped. Thepotentialredevelopmentvalueofthe question, andthereisspeculationiteventuallycouldbe business. Butthelong-termfutureoffl be doneatthefl NRDC investsinrenovatingthestores.Muchisneededto a fewyearsinitsfuturedependsonhowmuchcapital for awhile,telltalesignofwhetherithasmorethanjust it’s clearnowthatLord&Taylor willcontinuetooperate & Taylor, aswellvendorssupplyingthechain.While cash dealinthethirdquarterofthisyear. amount ofinterest.Federated expectstoclosetheall- in January, Federated saidL&Twasattractingagood swiftly. Federated After puttheretail chainupforsale Baker said.“We retailsituation.” lookatevery brand companiesthathavearealestateperspective,” by otherconcerns. Hudson’s Bay. However, thosebusinesseswerebought examined Toys ‘R’ Us,Pathmark, BurlingtonCoatand $1.3 billion,andinthepastyear, thepartnership has least $1billion,andintendstocontinueoperateL&T. another willhappenthisyear. Thursday.interview Retail’s NewestPlayer:NRDCEyesMoreDeals agship wasoneofthemainattractionsforbidders. Lord &Taylor’s newowneralsowould gettheair The buildingissaidtobeworthbetween$300 millionto “No waythefl The agreementbringssomerelieftotheteamatLord The dealtosellLord&Taylor movedrelatively “NRDC isinterestedinacquiringhigh-qualityretail Lastyear, NRDCEquityboughtLinens-N-Things for NRDC metFederated’s expectationforgettingat He wouldn’t anydealsintheworks,butsaid specify WWD, FRIDAY, JUNE23,2006 agship and other locations to recharge the agship andother locationstorechargethe agship lookslikeit doesthreeyears agship building,which isnotland- nitely dosomething withthebuild- agships, suchasBloomingdale’s ces orresidential. agship is still in agship isstillin as Wal-Mart, Target, Lowe’s,TheHome Depot,Sears, developer issaidto havestrongtiestoretailerssuch ties, representingmore than14millionsquarefeet.The corporate business centers andresidentialcommuni- projects consistingofshoppingcenters, stripcenters, of shoppingcentersintheU.S. Realty &DevelopmentCorp.,anownerand developer Related Companies, andtheprincipalsofNational tor thatcodevelopedtheTimeWarner Center withThe Apollo Real Estate Advisors,amajorrealestateinves- The groupisapartnershipbetweenthe principalsof require atotalinvestmentof$100million to$5billion. $50 millionto$750ofequityinacquisitionsthat Pa. AccordingtoitsWeb site,NRDCseekstoinvestfrom National Realty &Developmenthasmorethan100 Terry Lundgren & Taylor hasstoresinthosemalls andisattractingmore Burlington andNatick. Itclosedoneineachmall.Lord had twostoresineach ofthreebigmalls:SouthShore, & Taylor. Inthe Bostonarea,forexample,Federated to remainingstoresinthemalls,some casesLord shed duplicatepropertiesinmalls,traffi merger. Hepointed outthat,asFederated continues to one thatisactuallybenefi profi the chainas“very Bloomingdale’s, Baker, nevertheless,characterized the momentumofcompetitorssuchas Nordstromor on therighttrack.“Ithasitsownmatrix,” hesaid. ferentiate itselffromotherFederated divisionsandis the retailerforpastthreeyearshasworkedtodif- clout ofthe$27billionFederated behindit,Bakernoted hair,” Bakersaid. tive offi Jane Elferswillcontinueaspresidentandchiefexecu- that behindthiscompanyarestrongrealestateassets.” as anongoingconcernwiththeconfi ly didn’t evaluateLord&Taylor thatway. We evaluatedit Lord &Taylor’s realestatevalue,Bakerreplied:“We real- ing the entire portfolio,” he said. ing theentireportfolio,”hesaid. and Eastchester, N.Y. “In shortorder, wewillbereview- ship, arethestoresinStamford,Conn.,andManhasset unit chainthatareowned,besidestheFifth Avenue fl mix ofownedandleasedstores.Amongthoseinthe48- some ofthechain’s realestate,whichhedescribed asa one endandWal-Mart andTarget attheother. of NeimanMarcus,NordstromandBloomingdale’sat partment storesectorthatisbeingsqueezedbythelikes merchandise, itcontinuestooperateinthemidtierde- it. It’sbusinessasusual.” Lord &Taylorto run exactlyastheyhavebeenrunning downplayed notionsofradicalchange.“Ourintentionis said itwastooearlytooutlinewhatmighthappenand Staples andTJXCos.,amongothers. While L&Thasbeendownsizinganddoesn’t have While Lord&Taylor nolongerwillhavethebuying At Lord&Taylor, Bakerwillbecomechairman,while Asked howmuchofthepurchasepricewouldrefl Baker didnotdismissthepossibilityofconverting While L&Thasbeenmakingmovestoupgradeits Changes atLord&Taylor willoccursoon,butBaker cer. “We willdoourbesttostayoutofJane’s table andsuccessful”as ting fromtheFederated-May dence and knowledge dence and knowledge c will transfer transfer will c ect ect ag-

STORE PHOTO BY SPENCER PLATT/GETTY IMAGES WWD, FRIDAY, JUNE 23, 2006 13 WWD.COM

Richard A. Jane Elfers Baker of NRDC Equity Partners.

traffi c due to the closures. tional, distributed more coupons than any other Industry sources close to L&T say the chain New York-based retailer and came to be similar has picked up some momentum this past spring, in character to other May divisions. having had a year of much discontinued merchan- Federated inherited L&T, as well as May’s dise. It also completed the closing of six poorly regional chains Marshall Field’s, Hecht’s and The History of L&T performing stores as of April. Filene’s, through its $17 billion acquisition 1826: Lord & Taylor is founded as a dry goods store at 47 Catherine In the last couple of years, operating margins (including debt) of May last year. In January, Street in lower Manhattan by James Lord and George Washington Taylor. are in the 5 to 7 percent range on an EBIT basis, Federated put L&T up for sale, making it chal- 1872: After the Civil War, Lord & Taylor follows the city’s population according to sources close to the company. lenging for the team there to focus on the busi- uptown, opening a store on Broadway at 20th Street. Over the next 30 While NRDC Equity Partners is new, Baker ness. “It’s been diffi cult to live in a state of un- years, it expands to fi ll the blocks between 19th and 20th Streets and pointed out that its principals, including his fa- certainty. Everybody is smiling today,” said one Broadway and Fifth Avenue. ther, Robert, have been in business for more than source close to the store. 1909: The retailer is sold to United Dry Goods Co. (In 1916, United Dry 40 years and have conducted more than $50 bil- With Lord & Taylor, NRDC ultimately could fol- Goods and Associated Merchants Co. merge to form Associated Dry Goods.) lion in transactions. “This is not a junior group. low the Mervyns model. In that case, a consortium 1914: Lord & Taylor moves further uptown to Fifth Avenue between We’ve just created a new venue,” he said. consisting of Cerberus Capital Management, Sun 38th and 39th Streets, its current location. NRDC also is distinguished by its tie to Tri- Capital Partners, Lubert-Adler and Klaff Partners 1938: Lord & Taylor introduces nostalgic Christmas windows with Artisan Partners, a merchant banker that pro- fi rst purchased the operation from Target Corp., themes such as “Christmas on Old Broadway.” vided fi nancial and advisory services to NRDC in then proceeded to close many stores and di- 1941: The retailer opens its fi rst branch location in Manhasset, N.Y. Six the Lord & Taylor deal. NRDC also was advised by vest much of the real estate, leaving a smaller, years later, a unit bows in Westchester. Bear, Stearns & Co. and the law fi rm of Stroock & more nimble, chain operating in core South and 1945: Lord & Taylor blossoms under Dorothy Shaver, the fi rst woman to Stroock & Lavan. Southwest markets. run a major department store. Shaver champions American designers such Generally, Tri-Artisan provides advice on merg- In 2003, L&T announced it would close 32 as Claire McCardell and Bonnie Cashin under the banner “Lord & Taylor ers, acquisitions, divestitures and other fi nancial stores, primarily in the South, and started to re- presents...” Some of Shaver’s innovations include a petites department, plays, and is involved in private equity transac- position to focus on better-to-bridge lines, and a shop for college fashions and a fl oor devoted to juniors. During Shaver’s tions. Its talent pool includes investment bankers, prices above Macy’s but below Nordstrom. Such tenure, advertising begins to feature illustrations and a handwritten logo. private equity investors and a large group of oper- lines as Liz Claiborne, Tommy Hilfi ger, Nautica, 1975: Joseph Brooks, chairman and chief executive offi cer, embarks ating directors, including some well-known retail- Monet, Kasper suits, Playtex — more than $300 on an aggressive expansion, expanding the 19-unit chain to 46 stores ers such as Philip Miller, a former chairman and million worth of inventory — were dropped in during his 11-year tenure, reinforcing the retailer’s penetration in ceo of Saks Fifth Avenue and earlier, Marshall a year. While discarding several brands, others several regions. At the same time, Brooks broadens the retailer’s appeal Field’s. Miller reportedly was instrumental in ad- started getting bought or played up more, includ- by introducing lower-price merchandise, and establishes a tradition of vising NRDC on Lord & Taylor and is currently a ing Tommy Bahama, Bobbie Brown, Kate Spade, playing “The Star-Spangled Banner” every morning at opening. board director and interim ceo of St. John, help- Ralph Lauren, Michael Kors, Anne Klein, DKNY 1986: Lord & Taylor is acquired by May Co. as part of May’s purchase of ing to search for a new ceo there. and Coach. Associated Dry Goods. In the acquisition arena, “we can add more value, It is believed that Lord & Taylor has about an- 1987: Marshall Hilsberg becomes chairman and ceo, succeeding Brooks. bring additional points of view and a network others other 10 weak locations, including units in Detroit He guides the helm of L&T for 13 years, more than doubling the division’s don’t have for operating insights,” said Donald R. and Chicago, that have not been performing well volume and taking it national to 80 stores. However, he’s criticized for Hutchison, managing director of Tri-Artisan. and could be closed. The repositioning is ongoing watering down the fashion content in his quest for mass appeal. Apollo Real Estate was founded in 1993 by as the retailer seeks to shed the staid image and 2000: Jane Elfers is named president and ceo, and sets out to reposition William Mack, a veteran real estate executive, in co- bolster traffi c. the retailer as a purveyor of upscale better and bridge fashions. operation with the Apollo private equity fund. Apollo “This agreement concludes a successful 2003: In an unprecedented downsizing, the chain closes 32 low-volume has overseen the investment of 10 real estate funds process to divest Lord &Taylor,” said Terry stores, dismantling much of a misguided expansion through the Sunbelt and joint ventures, through which it has invested J. Lundgren, Federated’s chairman, presi- during the Nineties and returning its focus to core Northeastern and more than $5.2 billion in more than 250 transactions dent and ceo, in a statement. “While Lord & Midwest markets to improve profi tability. This brings the chain down to with an aggregate value in excess of $20 billion. Taylor does not fi t with Federated’s strategic 54 stores in 11 states and Washington, D.C., from 86 stores in 19 states. The 180-year-old Lord & Taylor started as a focus on building the nationwide Macy’s and 2005: Lord & Taylor is acquired by Federated Department Stores as small specialty store on Catherine Street in the Bloomingdale’s brands, it is a well-known niche part of Federated’s $17 billion takeover of May Department Stores. Chinatown section of Manhattan. It long had specialty retailer with a great name, many out- Federated announces plans to convert nearly all of May’s nameplates, a reputation for catering to high society with standing locations and an experienced manage- but says the options it’s considering for Lord & Taylor include paring American designer merchandise, a strong assort- ment team.” The sale of Lord & Taylor will help down or liquidating the chain. ment of dresses and a wholesome family reputa- Federated pay down its debt, focus on Macy’s 2006: Federated puts the 48-unit Lord & Taylor up for sale. Terry tion. But the business started to lose its panache and Bloomingdale’s and repurchase shares. Lundgren, chairman, president and ceo of Federated, says his after being purchased by May Department Stores Federated is converting 400 former May doors to preference is to sell the retailer as an ongoing business. in 1986. Under May’s ownership, L&T was sub- Macy’s in September. A handful of May doors are 2006: L&T is sold to NRDC Equity Partners for $1.195 billion. jected to a moderate matrix, became very promo- converting to Bloomingdale’s. 14 WWD, FRIDAY, JUNE 23, 2006 WWD.COM Media/Advertising Bottega Veneta’s Snowdon Ads to Bow Bulgari Signs Moss for Relaunch MILAN — Bottega Veneta’s fall ad cam- By Stephanie Epiro paign breaks ground for the brand on multiple fronts. MILAN — Kate Moss will star in a campaign to relaunch one of Bulgari’s In the fi rst place, legendary British original scents. photographer Tony Armstrong-Jones, The Roman jewelry company will rerelease Bulgari Pour Femme world- better known as Lord Snowdon, who wide in August with the aim of repositioning it as Bulgari Parfum’s corner- wed Princess Margaret in 1960, shot stone women’s scent. A spokeswoman for Bulgari here said the relaunch is it. Famous for his portraits of artists, intended to show that the classic fragrance transmits the essence of a luxury celebrities, politicians and, above all, jewelry company. the British royal family, the 76-year- Bulgari Pour Femme will be promoted by an international print and tele- old photographer zoomed in on model vision advertising campaign featuring Moss. Though the company wouldn’t Inguna in a portrait style, a new ap- divulge numbers, the campaign is purported to be the biggest promotional proach for Bottega Veneta. investment ever made by Bulgari Parfums. Industry sources peg that fi gure To enhance the luxury collection’s at up to $3 million. shades of gray, black and brown, the images were shot in black and white in The campaign is a Milan studio. The campaign also in- cludes Bottega Veneta’s new fi ne jew- elry and furniture lines. purported to be the “Lord Snowdon is someone whose work I’ve long admired,” said Tomas biggest promotional Maier, Bottega Veneta’s creative director. STEVE EICHNER PHOTO BY “His sense of composition is remarkable, investment ever made yet the emotional focus of the photo- graph is always on the individual. This is by Bulgari Parfums. the same philosophy that Bottega Veneta brings to everything we design.” Filmed in Barcelona, the black-and- The campaign breaks in the August white 50-second campaign shows Moss issues of select magazines in a backless black dress and a 74- globally. The company de- carat diamond necklace and diamond clined to disclose its ad bud- pear-shaped earrings, and an amber- get for the season. colored jewel that turns into a drop Meanwhile, Prada has of fragrance. The print campaign is a tapped three Asian celebrities still of Moss with the fragrance in the for the Miu Miu fall ad cam- foreground. Both print and television paign —women the company campaigns were shot by Mert Alas and describes as “strong” and “war- Marcus Piggot. rior dolls, who simultaneously Though the scent will retain the represent a futuristic vision same feminine-floral formula with mixed with the depth and wis- which it was fi rst launched in 1994, dom of ancient custom and cul- Bulgari Pour Femme’s packaging and Kate Moss ture.” Chinese actress and sing- fl acon have been reworked to include a er Zhou Xun, Chinese actress gold metal cap, and neck and foil detailing. The design of the neck is meant Dong Jie and Japanese model to resemble that of a woman. Bulgari Parfums will launch a limited edition Lina Ohta were photographed of Bulgari Pour Femme in September that will feature a crystal cap. by Inez Van Lamsweerde Also set for a relaunch are men’s scents Bulgari Pour Homme and Bulgari and Vinoodh Matadin at the Images from the Bottega Veneta and Miu Miu ad campaigns. Pour Homme Extrême, which have undergone a fl acon face-lift — gaining Lapérouse restaurant in Paris, solid silver metal collar, neck and cap details. where Miuccia Prada staged her fall show. “Happy Times,” “Sound of Colors” with Alongside the three relaunches, Bulgari Parfum will unveil three new Zhou Xun will be in movie theaters Gong Li and Zhang Ziyi, among others, scents with a worldwide debut in August. Linked to Bulgari Pour Femme and opposite Ziyi Zhang in “The Banquet,” and “Dragon Tiger Gate.” Bulgari Pour Homme through shared notes, Voile de Jasmin, Rose Essentielle an adaptation of “Hamlet,” later this — Alessandra Ilari and Pour Homme Soir will be kept as ongoing fragrances in Bulgari Parfums’ year. Dong Jie starred in Zhang Yimou’s and Luisa Zargani growing scent portfolio.

helper. “Everyone was laughing; some were even gasping.” “It was like audience participation,” said another. “You could see MEMO PAD assistants trembling.” — Jeff Bercovici

GIVING AN ASSIST: Like “He’s Just Not That Into SPIN HITS EJECT: Andy Pemberton’s slow- You” and “The Nanny Diaries,” Lauren Weisberger’s motion exit from Spin has fi nally concluded. “The Devil Wears Prada” achieved towering success The music magazine confi rmed Thursday what based, at least in part, on the strength of its title. WWD fi rst reported three weeks ago: Pemberton PHOTO BY PATRICK MCMULLAN/PMC PATRICK PHOTO BY In fact, judging from the reviews, those four words is stepping down after only two issues. Sources may have been the best-received part of the book. said the delay was caused by haggling over But catchy as it may be, the title was not how Pemberton’s departure would be explained Weisberger’s idea, according to a source. Rather, and what kind of parting compensation he it was the suggestion of her former roommate, would receive. As for why he’s leaving in the Daryl Nierenberg — or so Nierenberg has been fi rst place, Pemberton, a former editor in chief telling people. The two were classmates at Cornell of Blender, is said to have clashed with the University, and, like Weisberger, who was Anna magazine’s new owners, Tom Hartle and Nion Wintour’s assistant at Vogue, Nierenberg also McEvoy. “Andy saw the direction going one had a short-lived, entry-level job at Condé Nast way and the executive team saw it going the Publications, on the business side of Bon Appétit. other way,” said a source close to the title. Asked whether she had supplied the title, Pemberton’s former number two, Doug Brod, has Nierenberg, who now works in online marketing, been named acting editor in chief. — J.B. said, “I can’t confi rm or deny that.” She added, “Lauren wrote the book, and I’m really proud of POWER TABLE: A bad batch of Cobb salad her.” Weisberger did not respond to queries. could have wiped out a good portion of the To date, “The Devil Wears Prada” has sold magazine industry’s top talent Wednesday well over one million copies, according to Nielsen afternoon as Elle’s Roberta Myers, Teen Vogue’s Amy Astley, Men’s Health’s David Zinczenko, BookScan. Weisberger’s second novel, “Everyone Blender’s Craig Marks, O’s Amy Gross, ESPN The Magazine’s Gary Hoenig and Essence’s Worth Knowing,” has recorded about 150,000 Angela Burt-Murray convened at table one in Michael’s restaurant. What was their purpose? sales, according to the tracking service, which To help Glamour editor in chief Cindi Leive shape the agenda for her presidency of the measures roughly 70 percent of total sales volume. American Society of Magazine Editors. “I’m doing [these lunches] monthly — a sort of And that gap will probably widen with the listening tour to hear what various editors would like to see ASME doing over the next fi lm version of “The Devil Wears Prada,” which couple of years,” said Leive, via e-mail. Topics of discussion included possible changes to opens June 30, having received positive to the National Magazine Awards and how magazines can harness the power of the Internet. glowing advance notices. It certainly got a Added Leive, “Wine helps!” — J.B. warm reception from viewers who attended a special assistants-only screening Tuesday CORRECTION: The title of Stephen Perrine’s book was misstated in Wednesday’s Memo Pad. Lauren night. “I don’t think anyone will appreciate it as The correct title is “Desperate Husbands: Secret Fears, Hidden Longing and the Quest Weisberger much as that crowd,” said one editor in chief’s for Meaning in the American Male.” WWD, FRIDAY, JUNE 23, 2006 15

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MORE THAN NAILS

For almost 50 years, the Sally Hansen name has been at a reasonable price and year after year, continue to drive synonymous with nail care. Today, its leadership of the innovation and new in the category. They extend beyond market is nearly unmatchable. nail care, which is their heritage, into new, unique niche As the number one nail care brand, the company segments and the customer is very aware and loyal to the currently holds a 26% dollar share of the nail care category, Sally Hansen name.” a 35% dollar share of the nail color category and a 53% Alstodt attributes this loyalty to the consumer’s trust in dollar share of nail treatments (ACNielsen, 52 weeks ending the brand. “Our products are guaranteed for performance,” April 2006). he said. “They trust us, and that’s why we’ve been able to “It’s a destination brand because of the Sally Hansen move into other product categories such as lip care, hand heritage,” said Lauren Vondrasek, category manager in and foot care, and specialty face. The consumer trusts our the beauty division at Walgreens. products will perform. You’ll see that “It’s a name that has been out continue as we have several major there for years. Sally Hansen is 2007 initiatives to expand our Sally synonymous with nail care and Hansen franchise.” they’re recognized by consumers Included in those plans is as a leader in mass cosmetics. continued development in the Just looking overall at their sales lip care and treatment category, and the growth of their business, where Sally Hansen is already very the customer responds to them successful. “Our innovation and and continues to respond to them “We’re moving into a deeper and looks to them as a problem problem-solving positioning in our ability to bring new solution brand.” lip,” said Alstodt. “Our new Lip Sally Hansen was introduced Infl ation lip plumper is the number to market and what we in 1958 with Hard As Nails and one lip item in the market today. We quickly became the leading brand know how to build successful items call ‘the science behind in nail treatment. Today, its nail and how to grow categories.” the beauty’ is what color lines include Hard As Nails, Another successful launch this Beyond Perfect, Diamond Strength year is the Sally Hansen Healing we’re all about.” and Maximum Growth, which was Beauty Maximum Plumping Lip recently relaunched to include a Treatment, which marked the new multivitamin- and soy-infused formula. brand’s entry into the tinted lip plumping segment. Sally Harvey Alstodt Sally Hansen Hard as Nails Xtreme Wear is a new youth- Hansen also extended its lip care offerings with a fi ve-item president, Del Cosmetics inspired nail color line introduced this year. The company’s collection of specialty lip enhancers, which includes a clear, latest introduction into nail care includes a revolutionary vitamin-infused Invisible and a Thin Lip Collagen new product called Miracle Cure, which guarantees 50% Boost that delivers noticeably fuller lips. stronger nails in three days. In the anti- “The Sally Hansen brand’s heritage is as a problem fungal nail care category, Sally Hansen solution brand in nail care, and they’re expanding beyond launched Recover, the fi rst anti-microbial that with their new lip items,” said Vondrasek. “This is nail solution that kills bacteria and other something customers are looking for, with the whole lip microbes while soothing pain and itching, plumping trend, so they’re bringing something new and and preventing the spread of infection. different in that arena.” And while Sally Hansen continues to And Sally Hansen is adding newness to other areas of the dominate nail care, the brand’s entrance market as well. Alstodt reported its Airbrush Leg products into new categories has made the company a allowed the company to progress into “head to toe beauty.” beauty franchise. Currently, the brand offers four items under the “Sally Hansen is more than just great Airbrush Sun line, the fi rst sunless airbrush products to nails,” said Harvey Alstodt, president, the mass market. Airbrush Sun for Face and Airbrush Del Cosmetics. “We’ve moved into other Sun for Body are retinol- and vitamin-enriched formulas businesses and other types of products, and providing a salon-style tan that lasts up to seven have brought a lot of signifi cant innovation days. To enhance this at-home tanning experience, into categories we were not in before.” Sally Hansen introduced two complementary items: Vondrasek agreed. “They’re recogn-ized Pre-Tan Exfoliator, which prepares, smoothes, refi nes and as the industry leader in nail treatment and conditions skin, and Airbrush After Tan, which locks in color nail color. They have high-quality products so the tan lasts fi ve days longer.