L'oréal Closes Clarisonic Skin Device Brand

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BUSINESS 2 EXPERT ADVICE 7 DIGITAL 8 PEOPLE 11 The US hits French cosmetics How technology is driving Huda Beauty crowned 2020’s Journalist Stacey Dooley lands companies with 25% duties Gen Z to beauty brands most popular beauty brand ambassador role with Clairol L’ORÉAL CLOSES CLARISONIC SKIN DEVICE BRAND The facial cleansing device brand was aquired by L’Oréal USA in 2011 ’Oréal is closing down its facial cleansing device brand Clarisonic. L The brand, acquired by L’Oréal USA in 2011, will be shutting down as of 30 September 2020, when it will cease to sell devices, brush heads and attachments. In a statement shared with Cosmetics Business, L’Oréal said: “Clarisonic has played an instrumental role in up-skilling and ultimately expanding L’Oréal’s knowledge and expertise beyond cosmetics and personal care products to the benefit of all L’Oréal brands. “L’Oréal will continue to leverage the know- how acquired through Clarisonic to continue to develop our own brands’ devices.” Clarisonic confirmed it would not manufacture its products under a third-party nor would they be available under any other brand name. In FAQs on its website, it stated: “This difficult decision was made so that L’Oréal can focus its attention on its other core business offerings.” It added: “We want to thank all of our loyal customers, dermatologists and partners who have helped put this brand on the map. It has been our absolute pleasure to serve you all of these years.” The brand is running a 50% off sale and is encouraging consumers to ‘take advantage’ of offers in order to have enough brush heads to use on devices already bought. © Filippo Monteforte, Getty images It said that it could not guarantee stock after VALENTINO has revealed singer-songwriter and actress Lady Gaga as the the brand’s closure, although some partner face of its new fragrance launch Voce Viva. retailers may continue to have skus. The perfume, designed by Creative Director Pierpaolo Piccioli with The brand’s subscription service and loyalty Valentino Beauty, is inspired by inclusivity and individuality. Lady Gaga said: rewards will cease from 1 October. “Be yourself, love who you are and never give up your dreams.” Regarding customer information registered The multi-award winning musician and actress – a recipient of an Oscar, with the brand, it stated: “Clarisonic is part of the Grammy, BAFTA and Golden Globe – is described by the luxury Italian brand L’Oréal family of brands. as ‘the voice of a generation’. The Voce Viva advertising campaign will be “So while the Clarisonic brand will not be revealed in September, when the new fragrance will hit shelves worldwide. marketing new products, we hope to keep caring for your skin.”

LUSH TO DISCONTINUE 150 PRODUCTS AFTER CEO REFLECTS ON LOCKDOWN NEWS ush has announced the discontinuation of more opportunities as we make room to create 27 July 2020 150 products, representing over 20% of its things that are best in their class – fewer entire collection. products, that give you better results.” Issue 28 L The UK-based cosmetics maker said its CEO The brand said it would “take a while” before cosmeticsbusiness.com Mark Constantine had used his time spent on all of the products are gone, but its newly- lockdown to reflect on the brand’s products and launched Lush Kitchen Subscription Box would identify those that no longer align with its contain some of its retro favourites and give Editor ‘master plan’. subscribers the chance to vote on its contents, Lucy Tandon Copp Constantine considered whether each product which could result in the return of a much-loved Features Editor was number one in its category, served customers’ but discontinued product. Sarah Parsons needs and were part of a so- Senior News & Social called ‘cosmetic revolution’. Media Reporter Among the products being Becky Bargh culled are skus from across many Sub Editor categories including bath bombs, Austyn King bath oils, bubbles, shower, body, face, make-up, oral care and hair. Head of Print & The brand’s entire Beyond Digital Production Foundation Liquid Foundation Ross Murdoch range will be discontinued, along Art Editor with long-time staples such as Sibylla Duffy Karma Kream, Naked Dream Digital Production Cream, Shimmy Shimmy, Ultra Megan Daly balm and Baby Face cleanser. Managing Director In a release, Lush noted: Colin Bailey-Wood “There are bound to be some disappointments but far many

PHYTO OWNER ALÈS GROUPE The US hits French companies ENTERS ADMINISTRATION with 25% duties in tax row Cosmetics Business Alès Groupe, the owner of beauty brands Phyto HPCi Media Limited and Lierac, has entered administration. French cosmetics companies will be required to Natraj Building The company filed for bankruptcy proceedings pay a new 25% tax on products imported with The Tanneries, at the Tribunal de Commerce de Paris in France, a trade value of approximately US$1.3bn. 55 Bermondsey St, where it is headquartered, on 6 July. The Office of the United States Trade London SE1 3XG Alès Groupe said it would consider all options Representative (USTR) announced that the +44 20 7193 1279 to allow it to continue operations and support its additional duties were being rolled out in [email protected] employees, including outside investment. While response to France’s Digital Services Tax (DST), it hopes to secure a recovery plan, a company which it deemed “unreasonable or discriminatory” Subscriptions closure could also be on the cards. and to “burden or restrict” US commerce, +44 20 7193 1279 On 29 June the company suspended the trading following an investigation. [email protected] of its shares. The cosmetics company has been in Although President Trump’s administration has Editorial financial difficulty for some time; between 2015 confirmed a 180-day suspension period before +44 20 7193 9502 and 2018 it lost approximately h30m and the tax comes into effect, it outlines the exact [email protected] implemented a recovery plan. products that will be slapped with the new duties. In 2019, cosmetics These include products for lips, eyes and nails, distributor Co-Capital including manicure and pedicure skus, as well as acquired a minority stake skin care products, sunscreen, soap and, in the group and appointed specifically, organic skin washes in liquid or ©HPCi Media Limited Frédéric Poux as Chairman. cream formats. Articles published in this publication may only be reproduced with permission. The Founded by Spanish-born France’s DST is 3% and covers transactions publisher accepts no responsibility for any hairdresser Patrick Alès in of US companies with estimated revenues of statements made in signed contributions or in approximately $15bn in 2020. Expected those reproduced from any other source. 1969 with Phytosolba ISSN 2057-1984 Laboratories, Alès Groupe collections equal $450m in taxes from US carved a niche in the hair care companies in 2020, and anticipated collections sector. Alès, credited with could reach over $500m in 2021. inventing ‘le brushing’ blow- The US conducted an investigation into the dry technique, died aged 88 DST in 2019, which included public comments in 2019. and a hearing with witnesses.

BEAUTY BRAND VELOUR COMMITS TO NEWS IN BRIEF DROPPING MINK FUR EYELASHES BY 2021 elour, the eyebrow and eyelash brand, has Its Luxe Faux Mink Collection was created confirmed it will remove the sale of its exclusively for Ulta Beauty and each sku features V mink fur eyelashes by 2021. a band made of cotton. The US brand’s founder and CEO Mabel Lee The decision follows a campaign by animal said that Velour is committed to “transitioning rights group Peta US, which said it had sent the out of mink” and as of this year has not restocked brand a box of vegan chocolates to show its any of its mink skus. gratitude. “When it comes to cruelty to animals, She said: “2020 has been a year of trials, fur eyelashes are no different from a fur coat,” THE NPD GROUP has revealed Germany’s sales of triumphs and uncertainty, but most importantly – said Peta Director Elisa Allen, when discussing luxury beauty products education and growth. the cruelty suffered by animals. outperformed in the first five “We, at Velour Beauty, are known for our months of the year, with the innovative, high-quality portfolio of natural country registering a loss of lashes. When I first started the brand, our 23%. The figure is the mission was to make lashes approachable to smallest decline experienced everyone and the promise is to provide high- among the five biggest quality lashes that are soft, natural-looking, and European prestige beauty markets with the UK, Spain, easy to apply for all-day comfort. France and Italy all “To achieve the standards that we are known experiencing larger sales for, some of our collections have included mink impacts. Part of the reason as a key component. behind Germany’s relative “Velour will always stand by our commitment success is that it endured to innovation and challenging the status quo as the shortest period of store we evolve and grow as a brand.” closures due to the Covid-19 The brand already sells alternative faux mink pandemic, with retail fronts shuttered for five weeks eyelashes made from 100% synthetic hair, which from 16 March to 19 April. are said to have a natural shine and be lightweight During the closure, upon application. Germany’s luxury beauty sales dropped 65%, but this was markedly less than the COVID-19 LOCKDOWN SPARKS UK declines experienced by This issue of Cosmetics Business News DIY BEAUTY BUSINESS BOOM France (88%), Spain (87%) (issue 28) will be the final issue of The number of DIY beauty businesses hitting and Italy (86%). COSMETICS BUSINESS’ weekly print the market has boomed in the UK, according to publication, following earlier announcements. Your subscription will be automatically new research. The study, commissioned by upgraded to the Cosmetics Business Plus+ desktop factory Mayku, found almost a quarter package, which includes unlimited access to of consumers with a hobby for creating their all Cosmetics Business print and digital own beauty products have been inspired to set content for your team. up their own business during lockdown. Subscribers will receive an automatic And with more than two million Brits willing multi-user licence for all team members to invest £2,000 in a local beauty or wellness within a single country. This will provide business, that could equate to a cash injection of access to premium content featured on THE DREAM EXCHANGE cosmeticsbusiness.com; usernames and £4.3bn to the sector, according to Mayku. is set to become the US’ passwords will be sent automatically on “It is truly wonderful to see the sheer quantity first majority black-owned 1 September 2020. of people in Britain who have benefitted from stock exchange when it As a Plus+ subscriber, you will receive allowing their creative juices to flow by taking launches next year – a first in exclusive breaking news email alerts directly up, or even rediscovering, a love for beauty, the 230-year history of US from Cosmetics Business to your inbox, cosmetics and general wellbeing,” said stock exchanges. On track for giving you priority access to breaking Mayku’s co-founders Alex Smilanksy and a 2021 launch date, it aims to industry news written by our team of Benjamin Redford. allow investors to back early award-winning journalists. stage and emerging In addition, the weekly Cosmetics Business Speaking to Cosmetics Business Lorraine businesses, including beauty News will be replaced by the monthly Dallmeier, CEO of skin care school Formula and personal care companies, Cosmetics Business magazine, featuring an Botanica, said consumers should not be put off in order to broaden wealth improved reader experience through cutting- from making their own cosmetics. creation opportunities within edge content and a brand new design. She said: “The recent growth in the natural the country. Joe Cecala, CEO Subscribers will receive the August Trend cosmetics sector has shown us that when of Dream Exchange, told Report as usual, and consumers started demanding natural, organic Cosmetics Business: from September it will products that are ‘free from’ certain chemicals, “Companies in the personal be published alongside products industry will be Cosmetics Business our skin care labels suddenly started to list encouraged to list on the magazine. ingredients, which have been used for millennia, Dream Exchange.” such as honey, oats or sunflower oil.”

NEWS IN BRIEF UNILEVER’S POLYCULTURAL HAIR CARE BRAND EMERGE BACKS BLACK GIRLS LEAD merge, the Unilever-owned polycultural Cara Sabin, CEO of Sundial Brands, said: “As hair care brand, has partnered with a hair care brand rooted in self-expression and Enon-profit organisation Black Girls Rock! creativity, emerge is committed to unlocking for its annual conference. opportunity for young girls of colour so they can The event aims to unite girls aged 13-18 with successfully pursue their creative passions. a range of panels, workshops and keynote “With the impact of Covid-19 on Black and speeches regarding social justice, women in Latinx communities, and the continued fight STEM, financial literacy, careers and more. against systemic racism, we are honoured to AVON, the direct-selling Unilever launched Emerge in January this year, partner with Beverly Bond and Black Girls Rock! beauty brand, has said it is with the help of Sundial Brands, which it to empower, inspire and support the next preparing for a ‘tidal wave’ of new representative sign ups acquired in 2017. generation of creative trailblazers.” as Covid-19 redundancies The Black Girls Rock! movement was founded Emerge aims to reach and support 100,000 grip the UK. Since lockdown by DJ Beverly Bond, a DJ in 2006. creative women of colour across the US by 2025. began at the end of March, Avon salespeople more than doubled in the UK/market with an increase of 114% year-on-year, adding to its five million workers globally. The brand has referred to the nationwide layoffs as a ‘pink-collar recession’, with women expected to explore ‘new, flexible and digital earning opportunities’. “As a recession tightens its grasp on communities in the wake of Covid-19, people are Attendees at the 2015 Black Girls Lead conference looking for new ways to earn,” said Angela Cretu, Avon’s CEO. UK GOVERNMENT TO REOPEN BROW AND JOHN LEWIS is expected to reject a cash injection from LASH BEAUTY SERVICES AFTER PRESSURES the government to bring back staff from furlough. The UK he UK government has confirmed it will “We have safely and successfully reopened our government announced this fully reopen the beauty services sector from Beauty Studios in our other territories, which month it would give a bonus of £1,000 per worker for T1 August, after mounting pressures from gives us even more confidence for the UK companies that bring back the cosmetics and personal care industry. studios,” Mackie explained. staff from furlough and keep On 4 July hairdressers were given the green Superdrug’s Covid-19 safety measures include them employed until January. light to reopen, with beauty salons following on limiting the number of employees and customers John Lewis furloughed 14,000 13 July, however, any treatments involving in its studios, PPE for staff members, screens in employees after stores were therapists touching the face were still not between treatment stations and pre-booked forced to close due to the permitted to take place. treatment appointments, which support the track coronavirus pandemic, This included eyebrow and eyelash services – and trace programme. meaning it could be bypassing a grant of around £14m. John which make up 86% of health and beauty retailer Lewis has not yet made a Superdrug’s services business – as well as facials. public comment on whether it Prior to the 17 July briefing by Prime Minister will accept the funding. Primark Boris Johnson, the retailer had said that although became the first large it was welcoming back 245 of its nail technicians, consumer goods player to turn its brow and lash specialists were unable to return. down the multi-million pound At the time, Jo Mackie, Customer and People business scheme. Director at Superdrug, said: “We are extremely confident in all of the additional protective measures we have implemented for beauty services, including new staff training and we are fully prepared to reopen as soon as we are allowed to do so.” He added: “We see no reason that brow and lash services can’t operate safely – these services are widely recognised as the most hygienic in the industry with elements for PPE worn as standard pre-Covid.”

TRUE BOTANICALS STANDS WHY ARE POST-BABY BODIES IGNORED? UP FOR POST-BABY BODIES “THIS IS JUST THE START” ~ Lucy Tandon Copp, Editor True Botanicals has launched a campaign that aims to celebrate postpartum bodies. “Despite there being literally billions Starring self-love coach and mother of three, Jasmin Steiner (pictured), the of mothers in the world, products for campaign video aims to normalise and honour the changes a woman’s body goes post-partum bodies are still an NPD through after birth. ‘niche’. Conversations are just starting to After battling through severe postpartum depression, Steiner is said to have open up, much as they have done surrounding redefined herself from a body-builder with low self-esteem to a woman with a strong menstruation and women’s health, but this is just the sense of self-worth. The brand said she wanted to participate in the campaign because start. Beauty brands have a unique opportunity to she had not seen anything like her post-partum body featured in mainstream media, serve consumers and make a real difference.” and wanted to normalise and honour the female form after birth. Steiner said: “I want mums to see themselves in this ad and to know they are beautiful too and they deserve to be seen just as they are. “True Botanicals is really putting their best foot forward by giving the spotlight to “TIRED OF UNREALISTIC IMAGES” other types of beauty. I’m incredibly honoured to be in this ad and grateful to use their ~ Sarah Parsons, Features Editor products every day and night.” “Both consumers and celebrities are The video also showcases the US brand’s Calm Pure Radiance Facial Oil and Pure tired of the unrealistic quick fix new Radiance Body Oil, which are both claimed to be pregnancy-safe. mom makeovers that for years have Rebecca Boston is the CMO of True Botanicals and a mother of three. She added: been splashed across the glossies. More women with “Self-love is giving yourself the same safe keeping and loving treatment that you give to a platform are sharing images of their postpartum that beautiful baby you grew with your powerful body. bodies in empowering and also humorous ways. Not “True Botanicals enables that kind of self-loving treatment with safe, luxurious skin only is it reminding shoppers that their body is care of the highest standards. We make natural biocompatible skin care that works.” powerful, but it’s also changing the NPD dialogue.” The brand also sells a Mama Glow bundle of products for mothers.

NEWS IN BRIEF

MACY’S, the US retailer, is cutting its management and corporate teams by almost 4,000. The announcement comes as the business begins a major restructure in order to offset the impact of decreased sales due to the coronavirus pandemic. The retail firm reported a 45% dip in its Q1 sales for the 13-week period ending 2 May, and hopes the decision to reduce staffing will save around US$365m. In addition to the reduced corporate British retailer POUNDLAND has laid out plans for the “biggest transformation” in its history. headcount, Macy’s is cutting Dubbed internally as Project Diamond, the consumer goods seller is expected to pilot an roles across its stores, e-commerce and home delivery service from its website poundland.co.uk early next year. supply chain and customer Poundland intends to run its fulfillment services from a new centre in Cannock in Staffordshire, support network, a move that UK. As part of its in-store transformation, Poundland has said it is preparing to reveal a shop-in- is expected to be adjusted shop concept this summer that will step-change its merchandise offer. when sales pick up. Meanwhile, 60 new stores are set to open in Lincolnshire, Stockton-on-Tees and County

Durham, with more than half expected to welcome customers by the end of July. MARKS & SPENCER “We’re stepping up to support high streets after the impact of the coronavirus by being (M&S) has said it will cut almost customer-focused, people-led and tech-enabled,” said Poundland’s Managing Director, Barry 1,000 jobs across its store William. “This is the biggest transformation in our history as we look to secure our future for management teams and head another 30 years.” office. In a statement, the retailer said the move marked “an important step” in M&S becoming a “stronger, leaner and more resilient” business as UK EXPECTS RECYCLABLE Ulta champions transparency its transformation plan PACKAGING FROM BRANDS with new beauty initiative accelerates. The chain said it Almost three quarters of UK and Irish shoppers wants to make three years’ expect brands to use recyclable packaging, a new The US’ largest beauty retailer Ulta Beauty has progress in one. Earlier this year, study has found. committed to offering consumers greater the retailer announced plans to The report, Selling Sustainability: Adapting to transparency when they shop. become digital-first. In February, the New Conscious Consumers, commissioned by The Conscious Beauty at Ulta Beauty initiative, it piloted a new Mobile Pay Go e-commerce solutions provider PFS and strategy set to launch later this year, will certify brands system at 50 new stores in the consultant LiveArea, found more than 70% of under five pillars: clean ingredients, cruelty-free, UK, which allows customers to pay via the M&S app in an effort customers said that brands should be opting for vegan, sustainable packaging and positive impact. to reduce queues at peak times. recyclable packaging. The retailer hopes this will help consumers The news comes on the back of Meanwhile, 74% agreed brands should do navigate products depending on their values. retailer Boots’ announcement to their best to reduce their packaging altogether. “As the beauty retail leader, we have the unique slash 7% of its workforce, as well The report said that the Covid-19 pandemic opportunity to inspire positive change in our as job cuts at John Lewis had shone a light on excess waste accumulated industry,” said Dave Kimbell, Ulta’s President. and Harrods. by many brands due to increasing numbers of “This initiative helps our guests readily navigate consumers receiving parcels at their homes our assortment through the lens of what matters during lockdown. most to them.” In turn, this has turned shoppers’ attention to Ulta Beauty has also set up the Conscious the impact their purchases have on the Beauty Advisory Council, in an effort to tackle environment, with 35% saying a product must industry issues. TerraCycle’s CEO Tom Szaky and be naturally or locally sourced and sustainable. Annie Jackson, co-founder of Credo Beauty, have “Our research clearly highlights the already joined the bench. immediate need for brands to be more Kimbell added: “Today’s annoucement marks environmentally responsible,” said LiveArea’s a definitive milestone on our ongoing journey in Creative Director, Benoit Soucaret. this space.”

Claire Rance is Head of Brand Strategy at The Pull Agency

iven that Gen Z has now overtaken “G millennials as the largest age group in the UK, with people aged 4-24 accounting for a third of the population in 2019, it’s no wonder that brands are keen to do everything they can to attract these new consumers. High street retailers have a key role to play. Gen Z are the most likely to go online to investigate their health and beauty product options but then buy them in-store: 33% of those aged 25 and under admitted as much, more than any other age group. But with so many pressures on the high street from online sales, not to mention the current coronavirus pandemic, retailers are already having to HOW GEN Z IS USING revamp their approach. Fortunately, this ties in neatly with what Gen Z wants. Beauty TECH TO FIND BEAUTY brands looking to succeed are focusing on technology-driven From ‘retail-tainment’ to voice searches, technology is playing an increasingly ‘retail-tainment’. important role in the way Gen Z consumers find and buy their beauty products This drive towards more experiential retail has already a greater level of personalisation significantly more than any understand that Gen Z have a seen tech-enabled ‘phygital’ than ever before. Brands can other demographic. YouTube is unique take on the products products like Sephora’s now provide precisely-tailored their second largest source of they buy and the reasoning interactive ‘magic mirror’, using solutions to their customers’ influence, followed by friends behind their decisions. technologies like AR and AI to hair care, beauty and skin care and family members. Technology is a vital element show customers how different concerns. In addition, voice assistants and many younger consumers looks would appear on them. This is possible because of are taking off: our research tend to be open to trying new the almost infinite access to found that almost a third (32%) solutions like voice search, or Tech-driven products data storage and computing of Gen Z said they’ve used augmented or virtual reality. Technology is also changing power of the cloud. voice search in relation to With this in mind, those what health and beauty brands health and beauty products, brands also need to be open to offer to customers, particularly The power of finding your compared to 29% of millennials. trying something new. to digital natives. For example, digital voice The research also revealed The key is to avoid using Neutrogena is launching a 3D- Digital media platforms are a that nearly half (43%) of Gen Z flashy technology for its own printed bespoke skin care mask key channel for influencing voice searches for beauty sake, but to employ it to solve a and Schwarzkopf Professional Gen Z. Our research further products take place in the problem or challenge being now offers ‘smart’ hairbrushes revealed that more than half of bathroom or bedroom. faced by consumers. that can analyse your hair as it younger consumers (52%) say runs through the strands. At its they mainly discover new looks A unique take on shopping To read more, visit core, this technology is driving and trends on Instagram, Beauty brands have to cosmeticsbusiness.com

NEWS IN BRIEF SOCIAL QUEEN: HUDA BEAUTY CROWNED THE MOST POPULAR BRAND OF 2020 he beauty brand of the Kattan sisters, was named the most popular sustainable beauty Huda Beauty, has been named as the most brand in the rankings. T popular beauty brand of 2020. In a statement to Cosmetics Business, Iman According to beauty comparison platform Bokolo, Cosmetify’s PR Manager, said: “It’s so Cosmetify’s latest Index Report, the last few interesting to see how consumers’ priorities have has secured VIVIFY months have seen the brand dominate social changed since the end of last year. £700k ahead of its market debut. According media with more than 24 million hashtags and “Huda Kattan is a favourite everywhere with to the company, demand a host of new ‘instagrammable’ launches. her products taking the beauty world by storm, for at-home and mobile Following Huda Beauty, in second place was in fact, she has conquered the industry in less beauty service searches popular social media brand Anastasia Beverly than ten years.” online have increased Hills, while MAC came in third, followed by almost 40% year-on-year, skin care brands Yves Rocher and Lush in fourth and could continue on and fifth places respectively. this upward trajectory Despite not making it into the top ten most due to the coronavirus pandemic. The website searched products in Q1, Huda Beauty did top will allow UK consumers the list of most followers across its social media to book mobile platforms with more than 43 million, seeing off treatments, such as nail competition from Kylie Cosmetics and MAC, services, hairdressers who came in second and third place respectively. and barbers services, at Huda Kattan, who is predominantly the face convenient locations and of the brand, was also named the third most times to suit them, influential beauty influencer in Q1, behind rivalling pre-existing booking platforms 21-year-old YouTuber James Charles and social including Blow, Ruuby media personality Bretman Rock. and My Beauty Squad. Another success story in 2020 came from affordable skin care brand The Ordinary, which

Jeffree Star responds to MARC JACOBS has hired a handful of consumers claims of ‘racism’ in video from a social media casting call to appear Following a public outcry from the beauty in its latest fragrance community, controversial beauty influencer CIATÉ, the beauty brand, marketing campaign. Jeffree Star has responded to critics in a new celebrated the launch of its The new Perfect YouTube video. latest collection with design fragrance for women is said to Titled ‘Doing What’s Right’, Star reflected on be inspired by Marc Jacobs’ ‘I am perfect as agency SmileyWorld by his recent behaviour on social media, which saw I am’ mantra and is described as ‘playful projecting ‘mood-boosting’ him embroiled in claims of racism, a feud with images on London’s Houses and unexpected’. make-up artist Tati Westbrook and harassment of Parliament in the UK. The campaign features a colourful collage The line was launched to of portraits and vignettes, and the words towards 21-year-old MUA James Charles. coincide with World Emoji ‘Perfect As I Am’. “I tattooed ‘perfect’ on my “Today, there are no excuses,” said Star in the Day and features a duo of wrist to remind me that, when I’m looking at video. “Without ever really thinking about the Smile On Lipsticks, in pink myself and wishing I could be stronger in ramifications of my words, my actions and for the and red shades, which are this way or better at that thing, I can just say first time in a very long time I’m really reflecting no, I’m exactly how I need to be right now,” said to be the most on my behaviour and mine alone,” he added. said Marc Jacobs. “My new fragrance, confidence-boosting In the video, he apologised to Charles and shades; a Smooth On Lip Perfect, was inspired by my belief that we talked about the importance of inclusivity to his Balm; three coloured are all perfect as we are, which is expressed mascaras; an eyeshadow in the campaign through each of our brand Jeffree Star Cosmetics. palette; stick-on nail stickers; amazing cast members.” “Whatever narrative anyone tries to spin of me, and Energy Boost Eye Appearing alongside the consumers, Marc I am so fucking proud to own an inclusive make- Patches (from £16). Jacobs also hired models Lila Moss, the up company. Since I opened my doors in 2014, Meanwhile, the packaging is daughter of Kate Moss, Alek Wek, Akon I have created products for everyone,” he Changkou and Mei Kawajiri, among others. adorned with SmileyWorld’s continued. “Any product, shade or formula I’ve The fragrance’s bottle has been designed iconic smiley face images. created has worked for any race, gender”. The collection is said to give with a crystal-cut cap and features Star’s recent actions resulted in the end of his consumers a ‘much needed multicoloured charms, said to be selected dose of positivity’ and its by Jacobs. The weighted glass base is working relationship with cult beauty brand launch will be backed with inspired by the original and the outer pack Morphe, which has released two cosmetic social media marketing. gives a nod to vintage fragrance boxes. collaborations with the YouTuber. The 34-year- old has a social following of 40.6 million.

IN GOOD HEALTH: RESEARCH SHOWS PATHOGENIC ROLE OF S. EPIDERMIS IN COMPROMISED SKIN MICROBIOTA The University of San Diego and ingredients supplier Silab unveil research into the role of the common bacterium

he role of the opportunistic, pathogenic bacteria skin health,” said Laura Cau, who was involved in the UCSD Staphylococcus aureus in skin diseases is well known. project as part of scientific international volunteering funded THowever, new findings also support the likelihood of a by Silab. “They strengthen the understanding of the role of pathogenic role for Staphylococcus epidermidis – a common commensal microbiota in the development of inflammatory commensal bacterium generally associated with good skin health – skin diseases.” in compromised skin. This research was published in the scientific journals Cell Reports This discovery, the result of collaborative research between and The Journal of Allergy and Clinical Immunology. cosmetic ingredients supplier Silab and the University of San Diego (UCSD), built on the work of studies reporting an overpresentation of S. epidermidis on compromised lesional skin. The objective of the work, which was carried out by a team led by Dr Richard Gallo, Distinguished Professor and Founding Chairman of the Department of Dermatology at UCSD, was to identify the role and mechanism of action of S. aureus and S. epidermidis in the pathogenesis of two inflammatory skin diseases: Netherton syndrome and atopic dermatitis. They found that the harmful effects of the two species result from interspecies communication via a sophisticated system known as quorum sensing, which allows for the synchronisation of proteases secretion specific to each bacterial population. These virulence factors are said to exacerbate the alterations in epidermal barrier function and inflammatory phenomenon that are characteristic of Netherton syndrome and atopic dermatitis. “These discoveries highlight the considerable influence of the interspecies communication within the epidermal ecosystem on

WHY LOOP IS THE LATEST REFILLABLE PACKAGING SERVICE THAT BEAUTY BRANDS ARE SIGNING UP TO erracycle’s Loop has launched its refillable service in the UK designed to test a new way of helping customers use less plastic – and a host of beauty brands have already signed up. and explore the exciting potential of reuse. TNivea, Ren, Love Beauty and Planet, Molton Brown and “We will learn what works at scale as we develop plans with Bulldog are among the first beauty brands to join the service, which Loop to introduce reusable packaging into our business.” allows customers to return their products to be cleaned by Loop Meanwhile, Bulldog’s General Manager Caroline Mallet, said and then be refilled by the brand’s manufacturer. the brand is constantly looking for new ways to up its Users of the service can have their empties collected from their sustainability credentials. “We refuse to stand still and are homes or alternatively deposit them at one of Loop’s UK-based constantly looking for new and innovative ways to deliver our collection points. products sustainably,” she explained. “Loop was designed from the ground-up to reinvent the way we consume by learning from historic circular and sustainable models like the milkman from yesteryear while honouring the convenience offered by our single-use consumption of today,” said TerraCycle’s CEO Tom Szaky. In order to bring its initiative to the UK, Loop selected Britain’s largest food store chain Tesco as a retail partner. Speaking about the link up, Dave Lewis, Tesco’s CEO, said: “Our ground-breaking partnership with Loop has been

NEW PRODUCTS

1 LISA FRANKLIN has released MAC’s Lipglass products, lip foaming gel formula is designed monofluorophosphate, a fluoride a new collection of beauty boxes pencils and Mineralize Skinfinish to hydrate and help protect the to prevent tooth decay, and designed to tackle specific skin in a gold shade with bronze skin’s barrier. kaolin, a natural clay that helps concerns. The five boxes include accents (from £15.50). The Launch: out now to remove stains. The brand is 3 and 4-step routines, and collection is said to encourage also offering consumers an feature full-sized products from Taylor’s fans to create their own 5 ESTÉE LAUDER has alternative to plastic across the brand’s line. version of her style and beauty reformulated its cult Advanced toothbrushes with its latest Shoppers can choose from Lisa looks. MAC’s make-up artists Night Repair to include the product made from bamboo. The Franklin’s Glow Skin Ritual, to recommend mixing lip product brand’s latest complex Bamboo Toothbrush (£4.99) is boost radiance and improve shades for customised looks to discovery. The new Advanced 100% biodegradable, BPA-free hydration; Clear Skin Ritual, to suit every skin tone. “Style, Night Repair Synchronized Multi- and housed in a recyclable box. tackle blemishes; Renew Skin confidence and versatility as an Recovery Complex (£82) Launch: out now Ritual, to help improve signs of artist are just a few of her features Chronolux Power Signal ageing; Calm Skin Ritual, to calm superpowers,” said Senior Artist Technology, which contains a 7 KANEBO COSMETICS is skin; and, for men, the Men’s Fatima Thomas, who worked micro signalling molecular preparing to launch a new Skin Ritual (from £125). with Taylor. The products are activator. The complex is collection of skin care products Launch: out now housed in bright neon powered by a proprietary blend with formulas designed to mirror packaging, which is said to be of yeast extract, a peptide and the stratum corneum’s moisture 2 GIORGIO ARMANI is poised a reflection of Taylor’s style and plant-derived ingredients said to barrier function. The I Hope skin to introduce a new fragrance, give a nod to the 90s. help maximise skin’s natural care line follows Kanebo’s marking a turning point in the Launch: out now repair. With continued use, skin revamp announced in November brand’s commitment to reducing is claimed to feel firmer and last year and the launch of 44 its environmental impact. The 4 TEOXANE has combined its pores diminished. new colour cosmetics in the new My Way scent is housed patented RHA Resilient Launch: August spring. Joining the brand’s in a refillable bottle made from Hyaluronic Acid technology with portfolio are four products based recycled and recyclable glycolic acid in order to create its 6 POLISHED LONDON has on Kanebo’s ‘Unify System’ On & materials, and is said to use new cleanser. The brand’s AHA turned its attention to producing In, which uses gender-inclusive sustainably sourced ingredients. Cleansing gel (£35) also features eco-friendly oral care products formulas to help moisturise skin. Meanwhile, the scent is branded a blend of fruit acids and a with two new launches. The Kanebo’s On Skin Essence V with the tagline: ‘I am what I live’. brightening complex to help brand’s new Polished London and On Skin Essence F (¥10,000 According to the L’Oréal-licenced exfoliate, remove impurities, Toothpaste Tablets (£6.99) are each) moisturisers are designed brand, these efforts and the dead skin cells and make-up. zero-waste alternatives to to leave skin feeling soft and brand’s project to preserve 650 These alpha hydroxy acids are traditional toothpaste tubes, protect skin from dry hectares of Malagasy rainforest, also said to encourage softer which cannot be recycled. The environments. make My Way a carbon neutral and smoother skin, and provide tablets are said to contain Launch: October product as its footprint is offset. a multi-target delivery system calcium and sodium carbonate “I believe that environmental that blocks the formation of dark to polish and clean teeth, For more launches visit issues should be close to spots. Meanwhile, the alongside sodium cosmeticsbusiness.com everyone’s heart, now more than ever,” said Armani. Launch: August 2 4 3 MAC has teamed up with American R&B singer Teyana Taylor on a new collaboration. The line features four lipsticks in 5 matte and frost finishes, four of

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British journalist and filmmaker STACEY DOOLEY has landed her debut beauty ambassador role with Coty-owned hair care brand CLARIOL. In a new TV and social media ad, Dooley will front the brand’s Nice’n Easy colour line launching today. She will also star in a wider TV advertising campaign, which is expected to hit screens on 2 September. “I’m thrilled to be the face of Clairol Nice’n Easy,” said the BBC presenter. “The brand has championed women for decades, giving them the confidence to take control of their own colour and to be true to themselves. Always.” Dooley added: “Using home hair colour was much less hassle than I’d anticipated with Nice’n Easy. You assume you’d never be able to do your own hair and be delighted with the outcome, but circumstance forced me to tackle my own roots.”

ON THE MOVE AT... ORIGINAL SPROUT

Beauty expert CARRIE “Carrie is a highly respected professional Despite the coronavirus pandemic, COOPER has joined US in our industry, with an outstanding track Original Sprout has expanded its national hair and body care brand record and in-depth knowledge of adult presence in health stores, hair salons and ORGINAL SPROUT and children’s hair care and skin care online channels throughout 2020. to take on a business products,” said Original Sprout’s General On the brand’s future strategy, Ambacher development role. Manager, Michael Ambacher, talking about continued: “With the addition of Carrie’s Cooper brings with her two decades Cooper’s appointment. experience to the team, we hope to accelerate of professional beauty knowledge, and is “We are delighted she is joining the entrance to the mainstream health and expected to drive brand awareness and Original Sprout family to help further beauty retail sales channel for both the expand Original Sprout’s market share. enhance brand awareness and grow our existing and new lines of products.” Her responsibilities will also include market share, as our safe, tested, vegan retail and focus on growing product sales products continue to gain the increasing Read more at through national distributors in the US. attention of consumers nationwide.” cosmeticsbusiness.com

POST LOCKDOWN SURGERY BOOM The Covid-19 pandemic has created a surge in demand for cosmetic treatments lastic surgeons on both sides of the Atlantic have reported a rise in bookings P during the Covid-19 pandemic, as clients use the opportunity to discreetly hide their recovery behind a face mask or recoup in private while working from home. UK consultant surgeon Gerard Lambe revealed he has experienced a five-fold increase in surgery bookings compared to last year, with a record number of patients opting for invasive facial procedures as well as breast operations and liposuction. Throughout the coronavirus pandemic many surgeons offered clients virtual consultations to discuss potential treatments, but Lambe says that it is the increase in online video meetings that is also driving the demand to go under the knife. “Patients have made it clear they see the pandemic and lockdown as offering them the perfect opportunity to really reflect on their dream of having that longed for breast lift or their eye bags finally tweaked,” he said. “Many people have been scrutinising their looks more due to the boost in Zoom video calls where their appearance is being observed.” He said that he has seen an uptick in demand for eye-lifts and enquiries about tummy tucks, the latter Lambe attributes to weight gain during 64% of its members have seen an increase in the the lockdown period. number of video consultations during Covid-19 “However, many are extra keen to get booked and injectables were by far the most asked-for in while they can work from home and recover cosmetic treatment. without colleagues and wider family knowing Nearly two thirds (65%) of patients enquired they’ve had some work done,” he added. about Botox, followed by breast augmentation “I can promise there will be a lot of people (44%), dermal fillers (37%), liposuction (30%) returning to work in the coming months looking and tummy tucks (24%). mysteriously fresher, perkier and slimmer.” “Injectable use is now a part of our cultural Oculoplastic surgeon Dr Daniel Ezra, a conversation, thanks to the average patient seeing London based eye specialist, said he has also seen the benefits of natural results from the a lot more patients and his practice has been advancements in technique and products that “busier than ever”, a trend he has noticed among allow plastic surgeons to individualise their his peers across all cosmetic specialities. recommended treatments to what each patient “My practice is very much centered around the needs,” said Dr Lynn Jeffers, President of ASPS. eyes, I think bags around the eyes, hooding can A ‘mini facelift’, a rejuvenation technique that often make you look very tired and exhausted,” requires smaller incisions, shorter recovery time he said. “But I am hearing from colleagues across and less surgery, is also reportedly seeing an the board that in addition to eyelids, facelifts are increase in popularity in the US. something that has also been very popular and A third of US surgeons Dr Javad Sajan of Seattle Plastic Surgery also lots of non-invasive treatments as well.” have seen an increase in attributes the global health crisis as a moment of Non-invasive treatments have soared in demand for liposuction reflection for people interested in professional popularity in the US as a result of the pandemic, beauty treatments regardless of the invasiveness and even a new Netflix makeover series Skin of the procedure. Decision: Before and After, released on 15 July, “Patients are coming back more motivated to explores how non-surgical techniques can look their best and take care of themselves,” he sometimes be the best option. said. “They feel that life is short and that they According to a recent report from the don’t want to live their lives unhappy with the American Society of Plastic Surgeons (ASPS), way they look.”

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