COTY, PUIG TEAM UP IN U.S./2 GAP CONTINUES TO STRUGGLE/2 Women’sWWD Wear Daily • The Retailers’ FRIDAYDaily Newspaper • February 24, 2006 • $2.00 Beauty Forward March MILAN — For fall, Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana were inspired by Napoleon, and they brought his image to full fl ower in a Dolce & Gabbana collection full of fabulous-looking coats and military looks. Here, one of the designers’ numbers with enough brass buttons to delight the members of any regiment. For more on the shows, see pages 4 to 7.

Strategy for Jil Sander: Buyer to Grow Brand, Sell It in 3 to 5 Years By Miles Socha MILAN — Powered by the design talent of Raf Simons and its current management team, the new owners of Jil Sander plan to launch the company into an expansion mode. Confirming an exclusive report in WWD Thursday, Change Capital Partners said it had acquired Sander from Prada Group for an undisclosed sum. The new owners have immediate plans to open three boutiques in Japan, find a replacement unit in London and bump up Sander’s U.S. business. The London-based private equity fund, which is headed by Carrefour See Buyer, Page9 PHOTO BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI GIOVANNI PHOTO BY 2 WWD, FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 24, 2006 WWD.COM Puig, Coty Sign Scent Deal

the selling and provide back-of- million at wholesale in the U.S. WWDFRIDAY By Pete Born fi ce and logistics support, accord- with those brands. Beauty NEW YORK — The consolidation- ing to the companies. After the In a telephone interview driven realignment of the U.S. transition, Puig will maintain a from Barcelona, Marc Puig, fragrance industry has produced marketing squad housed in Coty chief executive offi cer of Puig MILAN COLLECTIONS more tremors with a distribution headquarters. Beauty & Fashion Group, said Dolce & Gabbana, Fendi and Burberry Prorsum were among the high- deal between Puig USA and the The deal will hand fi ve well- the ongoing consolidation of de- 4 lights as fashion week in Milan rolled on. Coty Prestige division of Coty Inc. established fashion and lifestyle partment stores convinced him As of July 1, Coty will become brands to Coty. These include that the way to make headway in the distributor of Puig’s five Prada, which is a venture be- the U.S. was to strike a strate- GENERAL main fragrance brands in the tween Puig and the Milan fash- gic alliance. Both he and Bernd Powered by the design talent of Raf Simons and its current management, U.S. prestige market. ion house; Carolina Herrera, Beetz, ceo of Coty Inc., described 1 the new owners of Jil Sander plan to launch the fi rm into expansion. The deal does not affect the with its six fragrance lines; Paco the resultant arrangement as a Gap Inc. on Thursday reported declines in fourth-quarter and year-end Barcelona-based firm’s mass Rabanne; Nina Ricci, and a li- “win-win” combination. sales, margins, earnings and traffi c. business, Puig Fragrance & censing agreement with Comme Puig said Coty has achieved 2 Personal Care USA, or any of des Garçons. the number-one ranking on Limited Brands Inc. said it is forging ahead with plans to keep improving the other markets in the rest of Puig does not break out sales, women’s fragrance bars in U.S. 11 sales and profi ts. the world. but industry sources estimate department stores. The addition A sharper focus on inventory management, merchandising and market- Under the terms, Coty will do that Puig does more than $50 Continued on page 13 11 ing helped Kohl’s post a 17.6 percent profi t gain in the fourth quarter. Continuing demand for luxury helped Nordstom post a 36 percent rise in 11 fourth-quarter earnings. MEDIA: This fall, Majed Al-Sabah will launch his own magazine, to be Gap Net Falls in 4th Quarter 18 called Alef: A New Language of Beauty.

By David Moin fi rst half and turn “modestly positive” in the second BEAUTY half. Fiscal year earnings are projected at $1.23 to The realignment of the U.S. fragrance industry has produced more tremors NEW YORK — Gap Inc. is still far from recovery. $1.27 per share, including options expensing, which 2 with a deal between Puig USA and the Coty Prestige division of Coty Inc. On Thursday, the struggling retailer reported de- the fi rm sees amounting to about 3 cents per share. Racing’s popularity has spawned a Daytona 500 scent. Driver Jeff Gordon clines in fourth-quarter and year-end sales, mar- After repurchasing 98.5 million shares for $2 bil- gins, earnings and traffi c. lion during the year, the company ended the fourth 16 discusses his role with Elizabeth Arden, the race and his philanthropic efforts. Net earnings for the fourth quarter were down quarter with $3 billion in cash and short-term in- 10.8 percent to $337 million, or 39 cents per share vestments. The company expects to generate at least on a diluted basis, compared with $378 million, or $900 million in free cash fl ow for fi scal year 2006. 40 cents per share, for the same period last year. The company also announced an additional Classifi ed Advertisements...... 23 Fiscal year 2005 earnings per share were $1.24, up $500 million for its share repurchase program and To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is fi rstname. from $1.21 in 2004. expects to increase the annual dividend per share [email protected], using the individual’s name. Net sales of $4.8 billion for the fourth quar- from 18 cents in fi scal year 2005 to 32 cents for fi s- ter ended Jan. 28 decreased 2 percent compared cal year 2006. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPY- RIGHT ©2006 FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. with $4.9 billion for the same period last year. Product promotions and markdowns contrib- VOLUME 191, NO. 41. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one ad- Comparable-store sales decreased 6 percent, com- uted to a 260 basis point decline in gross margin ditional issue in January and November, two additional issues in March, May, June, August and December, and three ad- pared with a decrease of 3 percent for the same in 2005 to 36.6 percent. Operating margin for fi scal ditional issues in February, April, September and October by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers period last year. year 2005 was 10.9 percent and is seen slipping to Inc.: S.I. Newhouse Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President & C.E.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President and For the year, Gap posted sales of $16 billion, a 2 10 percent or 10.5 percent this year. C.O.O.; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice President_Chief Information Officer; percent drop compared with $16.3 billion for 2004. Inventory per square foot decreased 11 percent David Orlin, Senior Vice President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice President_Real Estate; Maurie Perl, Senior Vice President_Chief Communications Officer. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Group: Steven T. Florio, Advance Comp-store sales for the year decreased 5 percent, at the end of the fourth quarter, and will continue Magazine Group Vice Chairman; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice President_General Manager, Shared Services Center. compared with fl at sales last year. to decline this quarter, but at a slower rate, the Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at additional mailing offices. 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Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. the Old Navy brand, and close about 135 store lo- Subscriptions Rates: U.S. possessions, Retailer, daily one year: $109; Manufacturer, daily one year $145. All other cations, weighted toward the Gap brand. Square U.S., daily one year $205. Canada/Mexico, daily one year, $295. All other foreign (Air Speed), daily one year $595. None of us is satisfi ed with footage is expected to increase between 1 percent First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and 2 percent for fi scal year 2006. and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions “ and reprint requests, please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To the overall results. We did not Asked by one analyst to grade the Gap goods in subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make the stores, Cynthia Harriss, president of Gap Brand, our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would observed, “Spring product is not refl ective of what interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information by mail and/or e-mail, please advise deliver on expectations. We us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. you will continue to see with the Gap brand with WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED MANU- know we can do better. the progress we are making. We are getting some SCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPAR- traction on specifi c items, but we don’t [yet] see the ENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, — Paul Pressler,” Gap Inc. OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED dominance that we will see in the future. “It all starts with product,” Harriss said. “We are enabling dividend increases and more share re- at our best with exquisite, updated classics, rooted purchasing; expenses were down, largely because in key categories including T-shirts, hoodies, great TV advertising was temporarily scrapped; bonuses clean bottoms and, most importantly, denim.” Quote of the Week were lower; inventory management is improving As for Gap’s renovation campaign, which included and e-commerce is accelerating after Web sites were 60 redos last year and 20 more for this year, Harriss revamped. The offi cials stressed intensifi ed efforts said, “Customers are responding well. A comprehen- “[We’ve] been swimming against the to improve product are in the works and character- sive rollout will take time.” Another 200 stores will ized two launches, Banana Republic in Japan and be “refreshed” — they won’t be overhauled, but “it’s stream since Day One.’’ the new Forth & Towne division aimed at an older more than a little paint. You will see a visible differ- audience, as “overall” successes, though Gap was ence” that extends to service and windows as well as — Tomas Maier, Bottega Veneta creative director hoping for more traffi c at Forth & Towne. Five units the physical plant, said Harriss. are operating and 10 are slated to open this year. Jenny Ming, president of Old Navy, said the divi- “None of us is satisfi ed with the overall results. sion last year focused on price, and product was We did not deliver on expectations. We know we less differentiated, but now with designers relocat- can do better,” said Gap Inc. president and chief ed to San Francisco and working more closely with Correction executive officer Paul Pressler. He cited the other staff, the chain can develop more fashion- For Klinger Advanced Aesthetics’ 15-item skin care line, called “strength of Gap brands, the balance sheet and able product in three months, and has shorter lead Cosmedicine, Johns Hopkins Medicine consulted on the de- talent in the organization” as the keys to a better times and better open-to-buy positions. In March, sign and data analysis of the collection’s clinical tests. The in- future. “We are acting with a tremendous sense of stripes for the whole family will be featured, as will stitution also verifi ed the safety and accuracy of the Klinger urgency to win back our customers.” embellished tanks, cargo capris and espadrilles. Diagnostic System, a machine designed to determine skin care He added that the company is “100 percent fo- TV ads will begin next Thursday, with a focus on needs. This information was incorrectly described in an article cused on improving product in each of our brands” stripes and, subsequently, naturals. In April, new that appeared Feb. 10 on page 32 of WWD BeautyBiz. and that the level of traffi c in stores “suggests we signs will be rolled out and in July, front-of-store have not lost our customers. They are still visiting fi xtures will be upgraded. Knits, cargoes and twills our stores, but shopping us less frequently than are Old Navy’s strongest areas, Ming said, adding before because of product disappointment. We be- she felt good about product improvements. WWD.COM lieve traffi c lags product improvements by one or Pressler said Banana Republic’s positioning is two quarters. The fi rst half will be challenging and to “affordable luxury, versatile essentials and key Instant Access we will begin gaining traction in the second half.” big ideas” including classic white shirts and chi- For major breaking news in fashion, retailing or beauty — from Gap executives also said they are seeing sales nos, and “everyday style.” This week in Manhattan collection reviews to the latest mega-merger to hiring’s and firings. improvements on some items from efforts to restore bus stops, billboards and subway stations will the historic Gap aesthetic and focus on classics. The have Banana Republic ads promoting the launch For more information, visit wwd.com. company said comps will remain negative in the of the handbag collection. © Clinique Laboratories, LLC A custom-fit 3-StepSystemanswersA custom-fit your skin’s surface. moisture, Helpsskinmaximize too. process upandregulating anatural maker—speeding clear, radiant. Exfoliation isthedifference- by ourguidingdermatologiststo keep skin exfoliate, Asimplesystemcreated moisturize: 3 products, 3minutes.Twice aday. Cleanse, Yes. Great skincan becreated. that clears dullflakes solivelierskincan o tclinique.com at Now Tested.Clinique. Allergy 100% Fragrance Free. translucent. great Everybodydeserves skin. becomes livelyand flaky and dull what was toMoisturize replenish. Inabouttwo weeks, skin tothesurface, prep Step 2:Exfoliate toandsmoother speedbrighter Cliniquesoapmaintains protectiveLiquid, lipids. Step1:Cleanse. Barornew needs. specific YES. for moisture. for Step3: 4 WWD, FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 24, 2006 A Good Coating Terrifi c coats, ranging from trenches to military greatcoats to scallop-edged furs were at the heart of some of the standout collections for fall. Beautiful evening looks were part of the action, too.

Dolce & Gabbana: Napoleon Bonaparte — emperor, egoist, good-looking guy in a frock coat. And what a way with the ladies. On that point at least, he has kindred spirits in Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana, who became smitten with him after reading Stefan Gläser’s book, “Frauen Um Napoleon (Napoleon’s Women).” They were so taken with it that they decided to use it as their fall inspiration, no doubt elated by the possibilities for the gender play they love. The result: a delightfully bold, fl amboyant affair. Perhaps also inspired by their man-muse, the designers waxed a bit political before the show. “Femininity is power,” Dolce declared. And if they could express that yin and yang might in precision piping ▲ and grandly buckled boots on one hand, and oh-so-ethereal Dolce & ▼ Gabbana embroideries on the other, what feminist babe wouldn’t join the cause? ▼ The set, an elaborate carousel constructed of gleaming metal pillars, was supposed to resemble a life-sized jewelry box. (Power trip be darned. Women, according to Gabbana, “are true jewels.”) The show opened with some major construction, fl ashing enough highfalutin military regalia to win back Waterloo. Truth be told, it bore some trappings of a costume fete — all brass-buttoned, gold- bullioned and cutaway. But then, these designers place no premium on subtlety when working a motif. Besides, the goods looked great: coats in cashmere, rich skins, weighty silks and wools; jackets in ostrich, velvets and fur, some feather-trimmed. And one can assume any girl not ready to ship out in her gussied-up admiral’s breeches can fi nd dressed-down duds in pre-fall. As for Josephine’s side of the story, a few rich-toned velvet dresses, belted high in that essential Empire way, segued into the fi nale of spectacular eveningwear — 13 gowns crafted from silks, feathers, beads and 46 archival Lesage embroideries. Despite their gentility, each was a high-impact stunner. In other words, perfect, because, just like Josephine, Dolce & Gabbana’s girls like to be noticed — especially at night. Surely Napoleon would approve. Though he may have had larger issues in mind, his words could just as well apply to event dressing. “Glory is fl eeting,” the Emperor said, “but obscurity is forever.”

Fendi: As they say in the circus, the show must go on. So after the collapse of the photographers’ stand that resulted in one sprained ankle and a walkout by nearly all the other photographers, Karl Lagerfeld’s fall show for Fendi not only went on, it did so with no more than the standard delay. Perhaps they knew they had a winner on their hands — step two in Lagerfeld’s master plan to conquer three fashion capitals with very different collections. The mood for Milan and Fendi: clean and structured, with a soupçon of Space-Age chic. The cleanup had started for spring. But while then, the look was all girlish wiles, here Lagerfeld pared down even more while upping the chic factor, and the attitude, with a new sophistication. To that end, he favored short, controlled cuts in sturdy, wintery fabrics, emboldened with graphic slashed pockets and belts threaded through side slits for a free-fall cut in back. In fact, Lagerfeld loves the waist. He cinched it, smocked it and corseted it, countering the looseness with graceful lantern-sleeve blouses worn over trousers for a faintly Forties vibe. And he worked the shirt motif further still, countering all the structure with fl uid dresses that boasted a rare feature — manageable bubble skirts. As for the furs, some found them too quiet for fall at Fendi. Yet one could delight in a little shrug jacket over a gold bustier and skirt; racy short numbers of the cinched-front/loose back variety, and more decorative fare, including a group of tailored whites piped in black, and sheared scallop-edged numbers in pale gray and beige combos. Round two — a low-key hit for Karl; one more to go.

Burberry Prorsum: Just like his perennial muse, Kate Moss, who simply glowed in the front row at Thursday evening’s show, Christopher Bailey’s once-waifi sh and slightly wayward Burberry girl has grown up a lot over the past few months — and she’s certainly looking the better for it. His striking fall collection gave off a high-beam polish he’s never exhibited on the runway before. Toning down the quirky Brit cool that’s defi ned his previous collections for the house, Bailey deftly took his look from coltish to graceful in a single bound. It was a smart move that came at just the right time. He began, as he has in the past, by drawing directly from the deep Burberry taproot — namely, the trenchcoat — reviving that classic, this time in ever more fabulous forms. Out they came: bordered in rich fur, sleek in luxe leather, snazzy with jet beading or demure in fi ne lace. Something for everyone — or several somethings for those with a budget that allows. Furthering his newly sophisticated point of view, Bailey also sent out plenty of sportswear, including loads of featherweight sweaters and unfussy tiered skirts, as well as sharp men’s suits and quiet chiffon dresses. The look was fresh without ever resorting to gimmicks, and, though there was a whiff of nostalgia in the air, it wasn’t era-specifi c. Bailey’s bright-eyed new approach championed fi ne-tuned, intriguing clothes without a hint of irony. WWD, FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 24, 2006 5 WWD.COM

Burberry Prorsum

Fendi Fendi

Fendi

Burberry Burberry Prorsum Prorsum PHOTOS BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI, DAVIDE MAESTRI AND MAURICIO MIRANDA MAESTRI AND MAURICIO GIANNONI, DAVIDE GIOVANNI PHOTOS BY 6 WWD, FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 24, 2006 Fa ncy Fr All sorts of themes were in play as the Milan collections continued, from a mix charmingly campy looks to poetic, sepia-colored piec

Antonio Marras

Max Mara Max Mara

Max Mara

Max Mara: Merging two disparate moods, workaday refreshingly realistic, and made a quietly confi dent across its front. At a Cheap & Chic show, there is no such and rebellious, Max Mara’s fall collection could be statement that looked just right. thing as taking things too far. And that’s part of the fun. called Grunge Lite, an offi ce-safe look that gave sway to the trappings of modest rockerdom but without Moschino Cheap & Chic: Who better to open the Cheap & Anna Molinari: Rosella Tarabini staged her fall Anna any suggestion of aggressiveness or sloppiness. All Chic show than Dita Von Teese? Yes, she’s a little cheap Molinari show in the Sala delle Cariatidi of Milan’s manner of oversized anoraks formed the base of the and a little chic herself, that one, and she fl aunts those dignifi ed Palazzo Reale. The graceful environment was collection with coats done up in sober tartans and attributes, as well as everything else, with admirable sullied by Tarabini’s awkward collection of black satin monastic black or cut as capes. Bright shiny tops shimmy-shaking camp. Honoring such an haute fl irt, the strapless minidresses bunched up in the back, shredded sequined in sporty stripes were paired with slouchy fall collection was full of cheeky, good-time clothes. There chiffon gowns and metallic leather HotPant overalls. The skirts cut in men’s suitings, and these versatile were cardigans decked out with covered buttons, puff- disjointed collection vacillated from faux femininity, in pieces, as well as jackets, oversized knits and full-cut sleeve blouses and circle skirts galore, as well as a heart- the form of snug angora minidresses, to distressed rocker, pants, were combined and recombined throughout. print dress for the swing-dancing set. The season’s range courtesy of slim, metallic pinstriped pants and skinny Formal pairings made plays on the classic suit. of novelty prints included one that looked like a collage transparent Ts. A moment of clarity emerged in sassy More adventurous mixing meant a tailored tuxedo of old-time lingerie ads clipped from a newspaper. It was tiered tulle dresses and slinky fox stoles. Tarabini has used jacket worn over a minidress. The overall affect was just as subtle as a dress printed with the word “naughty” Molinari as her experimental canvas, putting down artsy WWD, FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 24, 2006 7 WWD.COM

Moschino Cheap & Chic THE POWER OF UNDERSTATEMENT Piazza Milan’s new bent Sempione toward pared-down elegance trickled into Bally, Schumacher and Piazza Sempione’s fall collections. The brands played out a study in understated luxury, Free turning out tailored jackets and dresses with of grunge with classic suits to a touch of drama. ces. After a softened Anna spring, Piazza Sempione Molinari snapped back to attention for fall with a collection based on the rigid tailoring of Napoleon. Double- breasted jackets and white ruffl ed placket Bally silk blouses were part of the disciplined silhouette, paired with a fl ared brocade skirt. Leading the looks was a sculptured black sleeveless dress with front plisse inserts.

Bally’s apparel and accessories collections, once viewed as two separate entities, came together nicely for fall. Designers Luca Ragonese (ready-to- wear) and Johnny Coca (accessories) were in sync to create a polished collection that mined the glamour of the Fifties. Bally’s diva was sylphlike in a long silk-wool twill dress with a draped back and a belted fur coat made from a medley of mink, rabbit and fox.

The German label Schumacher has built its collection on charm and whimsy, but this season it took a side step and pulled off a graceful take on tailoring. Detail-fi xated, designer Dorothee Singhoff deftly worked geometric tie- print silks into shirts and silk ruffl es on the tails of ivory cashmere sweaters and gave wool patchwork Schumacher coats lace collars.

Alberto Biani: Alberto Biani has built his reputation on well- cut, reality-based In Brief clothes. For fall, he Dita Von Teese Pollini Luisa added a Mod touch in Moschino By Rifat Beccaria: to his signature Ozbek: Rifat Luisa men’s wear trousers

Cheap & Chic. ▼ Ozbek is a Beccaria and smart peacoats. fabric whiz, scattered Graphic navy dots fi nding an English popped on brushed velvet pants, but ethnic garden of leopard print jodhpurs petered out. prints and roses all patterns over her Maurizio Pecoraro: strokes one season, only to start with a new genre the next. It’s from which customary After a sobering spring time for the designer to hunker down and fi nd a little discipline. his eclectic collection season, Maurizio collections of full- Pecoraro returned to Antonio Marras: There’s always something slightly melancholic for Pollini skirted his kooky draping and about Antonio Marras’ collections, as though he has funneled fl ow. For Belstaff: Belstaff built organza miscellaneous mixing. the sepia tones of a Depression-era fi lm onto his languid, poetic fall, black its collection around and silk He layered motley pieces. For fall, the Sardinian designer based his stoic and sober astrakhan city dwelling and dresses in shades that fabrics, tasseled collection on Anton Chekov’s play “The Three Sisters.” A single jackets and offered shelter from ran from soft Wedgwood bags and fl oppy mirror hanging from the back refl ected the fl uidity of Marras’ brocade smog with great swing blue to candy pink. violet hats to the sweeping opera coats with chiffon insets, sturdy gray wool circle shift dresses in Ottoman cloaks of various Thankfully, a couple of point of obsession. skirts and intricately beaded sweaters. He kept the palette dark prints were a fun and lengths and smart black stunners, such as a long Stellar lamé dresses and steely, adding fl ourishes with puckered full sleeves and sophisticated romp, but leather trenchcoats. pale yellow dress and a and bejeweled white cinched waists. For the fi nale, the curtain rose, revealing a stage his overstated nod to Mod But what city woman sharp black cape, broke astrakhan coats could covered in gilt mirrors. At that moment, the sorrow lifted, and a didn’t quite stack up to a would pair the look with the pattern of those have shone without

beautiful refl ection of strong women came in. groovy outing. a drab Pilgrim skirt? tiresome roses. the added extras. MIRANDA MAESTRI AND MAURICIO GIANNONI, DAVIDE GIOVANNI PHOTOS BY 8 WWD, FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 24, 2006 WWD.COM Fashion Scoops

J.LO BESIDE THE RUNWAY: ankle and is shaken. Three photographers and their equipment fell on her,” said Burke. “We’re Sandwiched between Domenico Jennifer Lopez investigating what happened,” he added, noting Fendi has employed the same contractors and Dolce and Stefano Gabbana after set designers for years. “The platform broke in the middle — perhaps the photographers were their Napoleonic extravaganza trying to get to a central position. We have pictures and we are counting how many people were of a show on Thursday, budding there,” said Burke. As for the walkout, Burke said it was “regrettable,” but that he “completely fashion designer Jennifer Lopez understood their fears.” The incident coincided with the fi rst time luxury titan Bernard Arnault felt, well, humbled. “I just have of LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton attended a show of the Rome-based house his group my little fashion company,” she controls. “Fendi is a jewel for us,” he said before the show. said, eyes glued to a fl at-screen TV re-broadcasting the show less HOME TEAM: Milan Fashion Week hasn’t even fi nished and Giorgio Armani is already planning than 30 minutes after it ended. his next big endeavor; a large-scale event to kick off the furniture and interior design show, “When I’m around these guys, I Il Salone del Mobile, which runs April 5-10. The Armani Teatro on Via Bergognone will host feel stupid to talk about it.” three installations: a Zaha Hadid-designed exhibit honoring the 10th anniversary of Wallpaper The trio shared a laugh, but magazine, a space unveiling Armani Casa’s fi rst kitchen and a section fi lled with renderings and Lopez — a vision of elegance in a caramel dress — went on, Do not cross: Chaos on the photo pit. describing her year-old, high- end Sweetface collection as a “good outlet for me” and a way of melding her dual interests, music and clothing. Of their show, she said, “I was fl oored. It was just gorgeous. It was so rich, so layered. Everything about it was so Dolce.” Lopez, who just wrapped up a Spanish-language album, said she’s about “halfway done” with her next English one. Still, the fi nale — dresses embellished with forests of gold leaf and oceans of pearls — had her itching for the stage. “I’d love to perform in one of them,” she said. The Dolce & Gabbana fall- winter collection was based on Napoleon and his women. Asked if she preferred the emperor’s new STEPHANE FEUGERE PHOTOS BY clothes, or Josephine’s, La Lopez opted for the latter because of that old adage about the woman behind the man. models of Armani’s mammoth hotel/retail complex in Dubai, set to open in 2008. That’s not Yet it was her husband, Marc Anthony, who brought Lopez to Milan for her fi rst European the only major infrastructure project Armani has on the go. His longtime architect Tadao Ando fashion sojourn in four years. “My husband is always trying to get me to relax because I work is designing a bridge between the Teatro space and a recently acquired Nestle factory destined so much,” said Lopez, who just wrapped up the salsa fi lm “El Cantante,” in which she portrays for offi ces. In 2008, when the project is done, the two connected buildings will house all of Puchi, a “crazy wife” opposite Anthony, and the forthcoming “Bordertown.” Armani’s corporate headquarters. Lopez said she proposed the Milan trip as a belated way to celebrate Valentine’s Day. Told that the Milan season had two contrasting fashion messages — modest and ladylike or ARTFUL DODGERS: Dita Von Teese and Marilyn Manson, who were at Moschino Cheap & Chic on sexy and aggressive — Lopez said she couldn’t nail herself down to one look or the other. Wednesday, made an encore appearance at the Moschino show Thursday night — only they were “With me, it’s my mood that day and that’s what I love about fashion,” she said. “You don’t a little late for their appointment. The newlyweds and their posse of bodyguards had to leapfrog have to be stuck with one trend. I dress for my mood at the moment.” over the runway in between the models. Asked what he’s been up to in Milan this week, Manson replied dryly: “drinking and going to fashion shows.” SNAP JUDGMENT: Jessica Alba, clad in a leopard- Jessica Alba print gown, concentrated not to spill out of the A REAL CORKER: Fashionistas in Seventies New York are sure to remember Kork-ease platform top of her dress, nor let one of its straps fall off sandals. The brand died out in the Eighties but diehard fans and nostalgia freaks are getting a the shoulder at the Dolce & Gabbana show on second chance to stock up. Mickey Rosmarin, owner of the Houston-based specialty retailer Tootsie’s, Thursday. And after a good helping of fashion, discovered that the Kork-ease trademark expired last summer and snapped up the rights to the she was ready for a few days of Italian cuisine brand and found a producer in Spain. He’s teaming up with Michelle Stein-Borgna, senior vice and wine. “It’s a complete departure for Dolce & president of sales and marketing for Aeffe USA, to relaunch the label. The sandals, which retail Gabbana,” she said after the show. “Napoleon was from $155 to $175 a pair, are set to hit stores like Bergdorf defi nitely the fi rst thing that came to mind. It was Goodman, Neiman Marcus, Scoop, Janet Brown and Linda Kate very opulent.” A gold Empire-waist gown piqued Dresner in March. “The retailers have gone crazy,” quipped Moss her interest. Asked if it was Oscar material, she Stein-Borgna. cooed: “I was thinking about it but I don’t want to say.” Alba is gearing up for this year’s release of SUPER QUIET: It’s been quite a while since Kate Moss popped up “Awake,” an independent fi lm in which she plays at a fashion show. So it seemed only fi tting that the post-rehab the wife of Hayden Christensen, whose character’s supermodel would choose Burberry for her front-row return anesthesia wears off during surgery. “There is given her longstanding collaboration with the British brand. this romantic idea in actors’ minds about doing Moss, who appeared a bit shaken in front of the photographer movies in New York during the fall with the leaves scrum, admitted she was a little nervous but Mario Testino was changing. You think about Woody Allen. I lived in on hand for reassurance. “We love her,” he said. When asked SoHo,” she said. Elle Macpherson also took in the whether she had any upcoming projects, Moss kept her cool. “I show, documenting all the hoopla with her trusty do. But I’m not going to say,” she demurred. Leica digital. “I got my fi rst Leica from Gilles Bensimon 25 years ago and I haven’t stopped ITALIAN JOB: Voluptuous actress Maria Grazia Cucinotta quietly taking pictures,” she said. Technical glitches slipped into Luisa Beccaria’s show on Thursday to take in the notwithstanding. “I’m running out of batteries,” designer’s ladylike looks. Turns out the connection is Sicily. she squealed as she snapped the backstage antics. Cucinotta will wear Beccaria’s designs in a photographic book on Sicily slated to be published at the end of the year. CRASH TEST: It’s a tough life for runway Beccaria owns a baroque village and villa on the island, which photographers — packed like sardines trying to she restored with her husband in the late Nineties. Cucinotta’s capture the best shot under grueling conditions. other current project is the production of “All the Invisible But things got really bad Thursday at Fendi, Children,” seven short fi lms directed by Spike Lee and Emir when the photo platform collapsed under the Kusturica, among others. The movie will be out in March and feet of Elle Italia’s Monica Feudi. To show their proceeds will benefi t UNICEF and the World Food Program. solidarity for their injured peer, photographers walked out before the show started, protesting FRENCH ACCENT: Manhattan-based Stephen Burrows is mulling whether to move his collection loudly. “Penny-pinchers,” yelled one. “There to the Paris runway. John Miller, the house’s managing director, said Burrows was “seriously were just too many bodies badly distributed on considering” showing in the City of Light as soon as this fall. Already, Burrows is bringing his a shaky, narrow platform,” said another. Fendi collection to a showroom in Paris next week for the fi rst time. Miller said the fi rm wants to chief executive Michael Burke went over to aid broaden its international scope and that Burrows has felt a strong affi nity for Paris ever since he the injured photographer. “She sprained her showed at the 1973 French-American fashion extravaganza at the Chateau de Versailles. WWD, FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 24, 2006 9 WWD.COM Buyer Looks to Build Jil Sander Brand

Continued from page one Raf Simons In a written statement, a Sander spokesman said, “[Simons] chairman and former Marks & Spencer chairman Luc waves to feels very confi dent in the new owner, who will continue to sup- Vandevelde, said acquiring more brands is a key facet of its the crowd port his work to give back to Jil Sander a strong, creative posi- future strategy. in Milan. tion in the fashion world. He is looking forward to collaborate At the same time, the deal represents the downsizing of one with the new owner of Jil Sander.” of the premier multibrand luxury groups assembled during Petrow described chief executive offi cer Gian Giacomo the acquisition mania of the late Nineties. Prada Group is also Ferraris and chief fi nancial offi cer Armin Mueller as key pil- said to be in talks to sell Helmut Lang, a money-losing business lars of the Sander company that attracted Change Capital part- it recently shuttered. ners. Neither Petrow nor Vandevelde is expected to take on an Faced with a large amount of debt stemming from its acqui- executive role in the company. sitions spree, and given its stop-and-go approach to an initial “We are fi nancial sponsors; we are active owners,” Petrow public offering, Prada Group has already sold stakes in Fendi explained. “We’ll take an active role as a sounding board.” and Church’s. Petrow said he spies “good opportunities” for the Sander On Thursday, Change Capital’s managing director Steven business in every market where the brand is present, particu- Petrow praised Prada for restructuring efforts at Sander that larly in America, where it is “probably underrepresented.” should edge the brand to break even in fi scal 2006 on projected He said Sander “is a company we’ve been looking at for a revenues of 140 million euros, or $166.6 million at current ex- long time and liked.” change. Thursday’s deal involves buying Prada Group’s 98 per- Yet he admitted the Sander brand has long competed for cent share of Sander. The balance is publicly traded on the management attention and resources within Prada Group — a Frankfurt Bourse. Change Capital plans to enact a “squeeze problem it would not encounter under Change Partners. out” to acquire all outstanding shares, a process that will take “The turnaround is largely complete and now we’re plan- about four to fi ve weeks, Petrow said, noting there are about ning for growth,” he said in a telephone interview. “We think 2,000 individual shareholders left. signifi cant growth is possible for this brand and it will continue In a statement, Bertelli said the Sander sale refl ects a plan to compete against the biggest names in the fashion business.” to focus on the core Prada and Miu Miu brands. Yet it is clear Petrow would not discuss any fi gures, nor comment on an Prada Group, which whittled down German manufacturing of estimated purchase price of 100 million euros, or $119 million. Sander’s collections and shifted them to its Italian facilities, Market sources suggested the amount would likely be at a dis- would still have links to the new owners. count from what Prada paid during a heated battle for fashion “I wish [Change Capital] and their teams a very successful brands in the 1990s. future and look forward to continuing to collaborate in vari- Petrow stressed Change Capital would preserve the posi- ous areas of product development and manufacturing,” said tioning of Sander, which is known for “super premium, very Bertelli. high-quality, conservative designs.” There are 16 directly operated Sander stores and about “We’re gearing up for a three- to fi ve-year investment hori- 50 franchised ones worldwide, plus wholesale distribution in zon,” he said. Asia, Europe and North America. New locations opened in After that, the options include an IPO, trade sale or fl ipping Taiwan and Hong Kong last fall. Also on Sander’s retail agenda the company to another fi nancial group. as of last December was a store in Rome and a smaller London Petrow spoke in bullish tones about Sander’s prospects, and said Change location after its Savile Row fl agship was closed last year. Capital had no intentions to seek the involvement of Sander herself, who founded Change Capital, created in 2003 and backed by the Halley family, shareholders in the brand in Hamburg in 1975 and made it a benchmark label of the minimal- Carrefour, is a 300 million euro ($357 million) fund specializing in investments that ist Nineties. Known for her uncompromising quality, intensive fabric research leverage its expertise in the retail and consumer goods industries. and quietly elegant designs, Sander sold her company to Prada in 1999, only to Its portfolio of companies includes home improvement retailer Robert Dyas spar over strategy with Prada chief Patrizio Bertelli. She exited the company fi ve Holdings Ltd., window blinds concern Hillarys Group and Buksesnedkeren ApS, a months after selling it and reconciled with Bertelli three years later, only to leave Danish fi rm that markets the H2O and Signal brands of leisure apparel. one more time in 2004. Last October, it backed the buyout of Republic Retail Ltd., the young adult fashion Petrow said strong press reviews and wholesale reaction to the debut men’s and retailer with 76 locations in the U.K., for 105 million pounds, or $183.2 million. women’s collections by Simons underscored Change Capital’s confi dence in the Petrow declined to identify any brands the fund might be eyeing, including the Belgian designer’s ability to create a “clear fashion vision for the company” — one Lang business up for grabs at Prada. “It’s a very competitive market out there,” that is consistent with its fashion legacy, but with Simons adding “his own twist.” he said. Wal-Mart Fights Back on Health Care Reebok Dives Into Swim By Katherine Bowers became the first state to require the Bentonville, Ark.-based company to spend NEW YORK — Reebok is mov- BOSTON — Wal-Mart, the target of bills more on worker health care or pay the ing into swimwear with a perfor- in 22 states that would force it to spend difference into the state Medicaid fund. mance collection set to launch at more on employee health care, plans to Wal-Mart will expand to at least half stores in April. expand the availability of its low-cost of its U.S. employess an $11-per-month Reebok, now a division of health plan and allow part-time workers Value Plan option, a low-cost health care Adidas Group, has had swimwear to insure their children. plan it introduced in 2005, and which from time to time in Europe, but In a speech to the National Governors’ swaps inexpensive premiums and three this is the fi rst time it has sold Association set for Sunday, chief execu- free doctors’ visits for higher deduct- the category in the U.S. The line tive offi cer H. Lee Scott will outline the ibles. In addition to allowing part-time is being produced under license company’s initiatives and frame the employees to insure their children, the by Backfl ips, a Stocktertown, Pa., health-care debate as a national crisis, company will shorten the mandatory swim manufacturer that makes rather than a Wal-Mart problem, accord- waiting period before an employee be- JLo, Dippers, Miraclesuit and ing to a partial transcript released by the comes eligible to join the plan. The cur- other brands. company on Thursday. rent waiting period is six months for “We want to focus on providing “The soaring cost of health care in full-time employees and two years for competitive athletes with high- America cannot be sustained over the part-time workers among Wal-Mart’s 1.6 performance products,” John long term by any business that offers million global workforce. Frascotti, senior vice president of health benefi ts to its employees,’’ Scott The retailer said it has signed up 70,000 Reebok’s performance division, said in the prepared remarks. “And every new members for health insurance in the said Thursday. Reebok’s expan- day that we don’t work together to solve most recent enrollment period, 50,000 of sion into swim was unrelated to A look from this challenge is a day that our country whom were previously uninsured. the company’s recent takeover by Reebok’s new becomes even less competitive in the “This is just a start,” Scott said, ac- Adidas, he said. swim line. global economy.” cording to the partial transcript. “In the “We have looked at this cate- Wal-Mart also sees a business opportu- weeks ahead, we’re going to take signifi - gory for a long time, and we have nity in health care. The retailer will part- cant steps to make our health benefi ts talked to many companies to fi nd the right partner,” he noted. “We think we ner with third-party vendors to add drop- even more affordable and accessible to can be a signifi cant player in this business.” in health clinics to select stores nationally the working families we employ.” The U.S. performance swim sector is dominated by Speedo, which has that will provide basics such as fl u shots. Wal-Mart Watch, a group that recently about 50 percent market share; Nike is the second-largest brand. Frascotti A pilot program in its northwest Arkansas disclosed an internal Wal-Mart memo said Reebok is looking to have some of its brands worn by swimmers compet- stores has fared well, the company said. suggesting the company reduce health ing at the Summer Games in Beijing in 2008. The world’s largest retailer has been care costs by discouraging unhealthy Reebok last year had sales of $3.8 billion, and also has licenses for other criticized by unions and other groups for workers from applying, questioned categories, including eyewear, hosiery and fi tness equipment. benefi ts packages that are unaffordable Scott’s motives. The suits are made of a four-way stretch material and have fl atlock stitches for many of its rank-and-fi le employees. His remarks “must be evaluated in the to reduce drag. In addition to performance suits, the initial products include A growing number of states, including harsh light of the multitude of hidden a selection of goggles and swim caps, as well as some fashion items for men. Massachusetts and Georgia, have listed charges buried in their plans,’’ said Wal- The collection will be available at swim stores and sporting goods chains. It Wal-Mart employees as top consumers of Mart Watch executive director Andrew will retail from about $30 to $80, Frascotti said. state-funded medical benefi ts. Maryland Grossman. — Melanie Kletter 10 WWD, FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 24, 2006 WWD.COM Paris Show Calendar The following is the ready-to-wear schedule. Times and locations are subject to change. Attendees are encouraged to confi rm information.

Sunday, Feb. 26 12:30 p.m.: Marithé & François Girbaud, Carrousel du Louvre, 10:30 a.m.: Chanel, Grand Palais, Avenue du Général 10:30 a.m.: Josep Font, Moulin Rouge, 82 Boulevard de Salle Le Nôtre Eisenhower, 8th Clichy, 18th 1:30 p.m.: Lutz, BETC, 85/87 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Martin, 11:30 a.m.: Akris, Carrousel du Louvre, Salle Souffl ot 11:30 a.m.: Sakina M’sa, Carrousel du Louvre, Salle Souffl ot 10th 11:30 a.m.: Toga, Musée de l’Homme, 17 Place du Trocadéro, 12:30 p.m.: Shawnyi by Yu Feng Shawn, Carrousel du Louvre, 2:30 p.m.: Jean Paul Gaultier, 325 Rue Saint-Martin, 3rd 16th Salle Gabriel 3:30 p.m.: Issey Miyake by Naoki Takizawa (see invitation) 12:30 p.m.: Giambattista Valli, Musée de l’Homme, 17 Place 1:30 p.m.: Lie Sang Bong, Cercle Républicain, 5 Avenue de 4:30 p.m.: Ann Demeulemeester, Couvent des Cordeliers, 15 du Trocadéro, 16th l’Opéra, 1st Rue de l’Ecole de Médecine, 6th 1:30 p.m.: Haider Ackermann, Couvent des Cordeliers, 15 Rue 2:30 p.m.: Minä Perhonen, 4 bis Passage Landrieu, 7th 5:30 p.m.: Costume National, Musée de l’Homme, Galerie de de l’Ecole de Medecine, 6th 3:30 p.m.: Balmain, Grand Hôtel, 2 Rue Scribe, 9th l’Océanie, 17 Place du Trocadéro, 16th 2:30 p.m.: Sonia Rykiel, Espace Ephémère Tuileries, Jardin 4:30 p.m.: John Ribbe, Carrousel du Louvre, Salle Souffl ot 7 p.m.: Christian Dior, Grand Palais, Avenue Winston des Tuileries, 1st 5:30 p.m.: Alena Akhmadullina, Carrousel du Louvre, Salle Churchill, 8th 3 p.m.: Isabelle Ballu (to be confi rmed) Gabriel 8:30 p.m.: Bless, Galerie Chantal Crousel, 10 Rue Charlot, 3rd 3:30 p.m.: Keita Maruyama, Espace Pierre Cardin, 3 Avenue 6:30 p.m.: Chapurin, Hôtel Westin, 3 Rue de Castiglione, 1st 8:30 p.m.: Latulle, La Fleche d’Or, 102 bis Rue de Bagnolet, Gabriel, 8th 7:30 p.m.: Rick Owens, Palais de la Découverte, Avenue 20th 4:30 p.m.: Christian Lacroix, Ecole Nationale Supérieure des Franklin Roosevelt, 8th Beaux Arts, 14 Rue Bonaparte, 6th 8:30 p.m.: Yohji Yamamoto, Espace Ephémère Tuileries, Wednesday, March 1 5:30 p.m.: Junko Shimada, Hôtel Westin, 3 Rue de Jardin des Tuileries, 1st 9 a.m.: Paco Rabanne, Galerie Nikki Diana Marquard, 9 Place Castiglione, 1st 9:30 p.m.: Es, Espace Saint-Martin, 199 bis Rue Saint- des Vosges, 4th 6:30 p.m.: Maison Martin Margiela, Palais de la Porte Dorée, Martin, 3rd 10 a.m.: Jean-Louis Scherrer, Carrousel du Louvre, Salle Aquarium Tropical, 293 Avenue Dausmesnil, 12th Delorme 7 p.m.: Luis Buchinho, Ecole Nationale Supérieure des Beaux Monday, Feb. 27 10 a.m.: Matthew Ames, 13 Rue du Mail, 2nd Arts, 14 Rue Bonaparte, 6th 10:30 a.m.: Melodie Wolf, Hôtel Ambassador, 16 Boulevard 11 a.m.: Andrew Gn, Carrousel du Louvre, Salle Gabriel 8 p.m.: Alexander McQueen, Salle Marcel Cerdan, Palais Haussmann, 9th Noon: Hussein Chalayan, Carrousel du Louvre, Salle Souffl ot Omnisport de Paris Bercy, 8 Boulevard de Bercy, 12th 11:30 a.m.: Atsuro Tayama, L’Académie 14, 14 Rue Royale, 12:45 p.m.: Dice Kayek, Carrousel du Louvre, Salle Le Nôtre 9:30 p.m.: agnès b., 17 Rue Dieu, 10th 1st 1:15 pm : Sophia Kokosalaki, Musee de l’Homme, Galerie de 12:30 p.m.: Jean-Charles de Castelbajac, Musée de l’Homme, la Musique, 17 Saturday, March 4 17 Place du Trocadéro, 16th Place du Trocadero, 16th 9 a.m.: Junya Watanabe (see invitation) 1 p.m.: Bruno Pieters, Musée de l’Homme, Galerie de la 2 p.m.: Dries Van Noten, Ecole Nationale Supérieure des 10 a.m.: Nina Ricci, Théâtre National de Chaillot, 1 Place du Musique, 17 Place du Trocadéro, 16th Beaux Arts, 14 Rue Bonaparte, 6th Trocadéro, 16th 1:30 p.m.: Isabel Marant, Théâtre National de Chaillot, 1 2:30 p.m.: Shu Moriyama, 4 Rue Hérold, 1st 11 a.m.: Charles Anastase, Carrousel du Louvre, Salle Delorme Place du Trocadéro, 16th 3 p.m.: Loewe, Théâtre National de Chaillot, 1 Place du Noon: Fashion Institute Arnhem, Espace Chatelet Victoria, 19 2:30 p.m.: Sharon Wauchob, Ecole Nationale Supérieure Trocadéro, 16th Avenue Victoria, 1st des Beaux Arts, Chapelle des Petits-Augustins, 14 Rue 3:30 p.m.: Christophe Guillarmé, Lounge de Culture Bière, 65 Noon: Guy Laroche, Carrousel du Louvre, Salle Souffl ot Bonaparte, 6th Avenue des Champs-Elysées, 8th 1 p.m.: Kenzo, Carrousel du Louvre, Salle Le Nôtre 3:30 p.m.: Viktor & Rolf, Espace Ephémère Tuileries, Jardin 4 p.m.: Veronique Branquinho, La Cigale, 120 Boulevard de 2 p.m.: Yoichi Nagasawa, Carrousel du Louvre, Salle Gabriel des Tuileries, 1st Rochechouart, 18th 3 p.m.: Chloé, Espace Ephémère Tuileries, Jardin des 4 p.m.: NACO, Hôtel Saint James et Albany, 202 Rue de 5 p.m.: Givenchy, Carreau du Temple, Rue Dupetit Thouars, 3rd Tuileries, 1st Rivoli, 1st 8 p.m.: Rochas, Espace Ephémère Tuileries, Jardin des 4 p.m.: Comme des Garçons (see invitation) 4:30 p.m.: Gaspard Yurkievich, Espace Saint-Martin, 199 bis Tuileries, 1st 5:30 p.m.: Hermès, Ecole Nationale Supérieure des Beaux Rue Saint-Martin, 3rd Arts, 14 Rue Bonaparte, 6th 5:30 p.m.: Undercover, La Cigale, 120 Boulevard de Thursday, March 2 6:30 p.m.: Barbara Bui, Musée de l’Homme, Galerie de Rochechouart, 18th 10 a.m.: Stella McCartney, 1 Rue Auber, 9th l’Océanie, 17 Place du Trocadéro, 16th 5:30 p.m.: Walter Rodrigues, Espace Saint-Martin, 199 bis 11 a.m.: Léonard, Carrousel du Louvre, Salle Delorme 8 p.m.: John Galliano, Le Dock Eiffel, 50 Avenue du President Rue Saint-Martin, 3rd Noon: Cacharel, Carrousel du Louvre, Salle Le Nôtre Wilson, La Plaine Saint-Denis 6 p.m.: Juan Pedro Lopez, Hôtel Westin, 3 Rue de Castiglione, 1 p.m.: Tsumori Chisato, Carrousel du Louvre, Salle Souffl ot 1st 2 p.m.: Emanuel Ungaro, Couvent des Cordeliers, 15 Rue de Sunday, March 5 6:30 p.m.: Bernhard Willhelm, Gymnase ASPTT, 242 Rue de l’Ecole de Médecine, 6th 9:30 a.m.: Sheri Bodell, Espace Saint-Martin, 199 bis Rue Bercy, 12th 3 p.m.: Zucca, Ecole Nationale Supérieure des Beaux Arts, 14 Saint-Martin, 3rd 7 p.m.: Junko Maeda, Hôtel Meurice, Salle Pompadour, 228 Rue Bonaparte, 6th 10:30 a.m.: Elie Saab, Carrousel du Louvre, Salle Delorme Rue de Rivoli, 1st 4:30 p.m.: Celine, Espace Ephémère Tuileries, Jardin des 11:30 a.m.: Valentino, Carrousel du Louvre, Salle Le Nôtre 7:30 p.m.: AF Vandevorst, Palais Omnisport de Paris Bercy, Tuileries, 1st 12:30 p.m.: Yuki Torii, Carrousel du Louvre, Salle Gabriel Salle Marcel Cerdan, 8 Boulevard de Bercy, 12th 5:30 p.m.: Cathy Pill, Galerie des Saints-Pères, 19 Rue de 1:30 p.m.: Antonio Berardi, Carrousel du Louvre, Salle Souffl ot 8 p.m.: Fatima Lopes, Studio Gabriel, 9 Avenue Gabriel, 8th Saints-Pères, 6th 3 p.m.: Miu Miu (see invitation) 8:30 p.m.: Nicolas Andreas Taralis, Galerie Nikki Diana 6 p.m.: Christian Wijnants, Musée de l’Homme. Galerie de la 4:30 p.m.: Gilles Rosier, Couvent des Cordeliers, 15 Rue de Marquard, 9 Place des Vosges, 4th Musique, 17 Place du Trocadéro, 16th l’Ecole de Médecine, 6th 7 p.m.: Véronique Leroy, Espace Commines, 17 Rue 5:30 p.m.: Lanvin, Opéra Comique, Place Boieldieu, 2nd Tuesday, Feb. 28 Commines, 3rd 6:30 p.m.: Moon Young Hee, Espace Pierre Cardin, 3 Avenue 9:30 a.m.: Balenciaga (see invitation) 8 p.m.: Yves Saint Laurent (see invitation) Gabriel, 8th 10:30 a.m.: Cher Michel Klein, Carrousel du Louvre, Salle 9 p.m.: Jasmine Di Milo, Hôtel Ritz, 15 place Vendôme, 1st 8 p.m.: Louis Vuitton (see invitation) Souffl ot 11:30 a.m.: Vivienne Westwood, Carrousel du Louvre, Salle Friday, March 3 Monday, March 6 Delorme 9:30 a.m.: Ekjo, Carrousel du Louvre, Salle Gabriel (to be confi rmed) Mathilde Laurent: Finding Inspiration Everywhere PARIS — Mathilde Laurent has a perfumer’s dream job — making custom fra- “I ask extremely easy questions,” she said. grances for Cartier. Following just a couple of one-on-one sessions, Laurent proposes three olfac- “My inspiration comes from anything,” she explained. “Everything a person tive directions a fragrance might take. Then, at least nine months and 60,000 euros says, a land, a country, where a person lives, a fl ower. Even pictures can inspire ($73,660) later, a client walks away with an array of crystal fl acons that can be held me.” in a signature red Cartier box, plus 1.5 liters, or The latter, particularly, comes as no surprise. three to fi ve years’ worth, of their own made-to- This petite 35-year-old Parisian thought serious- I can do things that are extremely measure scent. ly of becoming a photographer before entering “ “I can do things that are extremely personal the fabled Isipca fragrance school in Versailles, personal for people without their for people without their recounting their lives,” France. Afterward, she worked under the legend- said Laurent, adding it’s very intimate. ary Jean Paul Guerlain for 11 years. recounting their lives. So, too, is the moment when she passes some- When Laurent began her job as in-house ”— Mathilde Laurent one on the street wearing one of her fragrances. Cartier perfumer last December, she became one “The fi rst time that happened to me as a young of a handful of “noses” hired to work exclusively perfumer, it was unforgettable,” she said. “It’s like for a brand. you understand your creation is real, that it exists in the world without you. At least From Laurent’s wood-paneled room with some 200 scent bottles in Cartier’s someone was touched by it and decoded the message you put inside that perfume. newly renovated fl agship on the Rue de la Paix here, she meets with individuals It is like someone speaks the same language as you, and that language is unique.” to sniff out their likes and dislikes. — Jennifer Weil WWD, FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 24, 2006 11 WWD.COM Nordstrom Profi t Up 36%, Marketing, Inventory Controls Full-Year Sales Hit $7.7B Boost Kohl’s Fourth-Qtr. Net during the quarter and it plans to open a NEW YORK — A sharper focus on By Meredith Derby Larry store in Palm Beach, Fla., on March 10. The inventory management, merchan- Montgomery NEW YORK — Boosted by strong sales vol- retailer will open fi ve new stores in 2007. dising and marketing helped Kohl’s ume, Nordstrom Inc. posted a 36 percent rise Despite the quarter’s solid results, Corp. post a 17.6 percent profit gain in fourth-quarter earnings as demand for lux- Nordstrom outlined on the conference call in the fourth quarter and a 20 per- ury goods continued at a breakneck pace. three areas that it said “hold unique oppor- cent increase for the year. In the three months ended Jan. 28, the tunities”: women’s apparel, multichannel The Menomonee Falls, Wis.-based company earned $190.4 million, or 69 cents integration and its designer business. The moderate retailer said in its earn- a diluted share, compared with $140 million, company’s fi rst goal is “reenergizing wom- ings report after the market close or 50 cents, last year. Net sales totaled $2.3 en’s apparel,” according to Blake Nordstrom, Thursday that it would continue work- billion, up 9.3 percent from last year’s $2.1 president of the company. In women’s appar- ing on this same strategy for fi scal billion, while same-store sales rose 5.8 per- el, which makes up about one-third of total year 2006 while also improving the cent, signifi cantly ahead of the company’s sales, Nordstrom has been working to devel- shopping experience for consumers. guidance for 1 to 3 percent. op more targeted merchandising strategies. For the quarter ended Jan. 23, “Our operating model continues to per- “We are now in the process of determining Kohl’s said net income rose to $374.9 retail strategy.” form with effi ciency as gains in comparable- how our lifestyle departments should evolve million, or $1.08 a diluted share, The retailer said it opened 95 sto- store sales provide consistent fl ow through to better serve our women’s customers,” from $318.8 million, or 92 cents, in ries during the year, which brought Nordstrom said. Specifi c opportunities in- the prior-year period on sales that the total to 732 in 41 states. As re- clude expanding into contemporary segments climbed 14 percent to $4.65 billion ported, the retailer is looking to ex- By focusing on our and improving wear-to-work offerings. from $4.08 billion. Operating in- pand its store base by 500 units over As for multichannel integration, come for the quarter increased 17.3 the next fi ve years. In 2006, around people,“ merchandise, Nordstrom plans to migrate this year its di- percent to $621.6 million from $530 80 stores are expected to open. rect inventory system into its full-line store million. The gross margin rate in During a conference call with new stores, remodels and platform, which should help align the online the quarter jumped to 33.9 percent analysts, Kevin Mansell, president,L and catalogue shopping experience with that of sales from 33.6 percent. said the retailer was pleased with its technology, we have laid in its full-line stores and create a more seam- For the year, net income soared initial spring selling “in all areas” of less shopping experience, Nordstrom said. to $842 million, or $2.43 a share, its business. “Chaps for women was the groundwork for future Its last initiative is to “have a complete de- from $703.4 million, or $2.04 a advertised in our [ad circular] for signer offering in at least one store for every share, in the prior period on sales the fi rst time during our Presidents’ long-term growth. major market we serve” across the footwear, that gained 14.5 percent to $13.4 Day sale, and we believe it has had ” apparel and accessories categories. billion from $11.7 billion. a very impactful presence in the — Blake Nordstrom, Nordstrom Inc. “Today, the foundation is in place for us Larry Montgomery, chairman store,” Mansell said. to bring more innovation and creativity into and chief executive offi cer, said in There will be “even more brand offering a differentiated shopping experi- a statement that the company made launches and extensions” this year to the bottom line,” the company said on a ence for our customers. By focusing on our “tremendous progress on our 2005 in comparison to 2005, which is post-earnings conference call with analysts people, merchandise, new stores, remodels initiatives and are very pleased when Kohl’s announced its fi ve-year and investors. and technology, we have laid the groundwork with the bottom-line results for the expansion plan, he added. During an In the full year, Nordstrom earned $551.3 for future long-term growth,” Nordstrom said quarter and the year. analyst meeting in August, the com- million, or $1.98 a share, up from $393.5 mil- on the call. “We concentrated on inventory pany said it was looking to deliver lion, or $1.38, last year. Revenues rose 8.3 For the fi rst quarter, the company expects management, resulting in lower profi ts of $1.9 billion on sales of $24 percent to $7.7 billion. to earn 39 cents to 44 cents, including a 1- to clearance levels and the best gross billion. A cornerstone of the plan in- Earnings-per-share results in both the 2-cent impact from the expensing of stock margin performance in our his- cludes a reinvention of the retailer’s quarter and year beat analysts’ estimates by options. Analysts have the company pegged tory,” the ceo said. “We have made women’s wear offering as well as a a penny. to earn 45 cents. great strides in broadening our as- push into new demographic targets. The company said in the quarter, its best- In full-year 2006, the company forecast sortment and are receiving positive Over the past year, the retailer has performing merchandise categories were earnings per share of $2.15 to $2.23, also feedback from our shoppers. We rolled out brands such as Chaps and cosmetics, accessories, women’s and kids’ including a 6-cent impact from stock op- are attracting new customers and Candies while launching exclusives shoes, and men’s apparel. A successful men’s tion expenses. Analysts’ consensus esti- believe we are building momentum such as the American Beauty line half-year clearance event and improve- mate is $2.24. as a brand. In 2006, we will con- with the Estée Lauder Cos. Inc. ment in regular-price sales drove volume, The retailer reported results after the tinue to focus on these initiatives: Shares of Kohl’s closed down 1.1 Nordstrom said in a written statement. market closed. Shares of Seattle-based merchandise content, marketing, percent to $44.51 on Thursday. The As a result, gross profi ts as a percent of Nordstrom closed down 0.4 percent at $40.12 inventory management and the in- stock’s 52-week high is $58.90, and sales expanded 81 basis points, the com- in Thursday trading on the New York Stock store shopping experience. These the low is $42.78. pany said. Exchange. In after-hours trading, the stock are the building blocks of a great — Arthur Zaczkiewicz Nordstrom opened one store in Dallas fell 2.3 percent to $39.20. Limited Lays Out Plans to Sustain Momentum

NEW YORK — After posting better-than-expected ecary” concept, both of which are performing well. fourth-quarter earnings results Wednesday, Limited Wall Street, meanwhile, responded favorably to the Brands Inc. said on a Thursday morning conference information from the company’s conference call and call that it is forging ahead with plans to keep improv- pushed shares of Limited Brands up 2.9 percent to ing sales and profi ts, including revamping its weak $24.09 Thursday. Bath & Body Works division and maintaining progress One area that analysts have had a laser focus on is already seen in its apparel division. the company’s apparel division, which had good news The company also hinted that it is considering in the quarter: The Express division posted a 6 per- opening stand-alone Pink stores, a concept it’s testing cent rise in quarterly comps. in 43 Victoria’s Secret locations. “We focused on winning customers back with a ca- Limited Brands said Wednesday after the close of sual, youthful, sexy sensibility and appropriate price the market that it earned $519.2 million in the three points and a self-purchase, or wear-now, approach to months ended Jan. 28, up 36 percent from a profi t of the holiday,” said Ken Stevens, chief executive offi cer $382.5 million last year. Quarterly sales were up 6 per- of Express. cent at $3.54 billion, while consolidated same-store Meanwhile, despite a 1 percent decline in comps sales rose 3 percent. for the retailer’s Limited apparel division, strong mer- Victoria’s Secret, which saw same-store sales in- Limited’s Express division posted a 6 percent rise in quarterly chandise margins helped operating income more than crease 3 percent in the quarter, had operating income comps. double from year-ago levels. below the company’s expectations; the company cited Richard Jaffe of Stifel Nicolaus was so impressed a decrease in beauty merchandise margins. But the rolled out into beauty products in 2007. By year-end with the retailer’s quarterly performance that he up- division’s Pink concept continued to be well received 2006, the company expects to have the lingerie brand graded shares of Limited Brands to “buy” with a $28 by customers and racked up annual sales of $500 mil- in 160 to 165 stores. target price in a research note Thursday. Jaffe said op- lion, driven in part by sales of sleepwear. At Bath & Body Works, fourth-quarter operating erating income from the company’s apparel business The number of Victoria’s Secret stores testing Pink profi t was down 7 percent and it had a slight 1 per- swelled to $45 million from $7 million in the quarter. will increase to 90 to 95 stores in the spring. And Mark cent increase in same-store sales. Neil Fiske, chief “While it is too early to declare victory, in our Weikel, chief operating offi cer of Victoria’s Secret executive offi cer of the division, said the fi rst holiday opinion, the improvement makes it clear that this stores, said on the call that the company is consider- fl oor set was “too early with a look that was too overtly business is better managed, and its focus on more ing opening a freestanding Pink store with a potential Christmas.” moderately priced apparel and broadly appealing target of fall of this year. In the spring, the company plans to invest in mar- fashions is having a positive impact with customers,” The retailer said Intimissimi, the Italian lingerie keting programs to support its next brands, such as Jaffe wrote. license offered in 26 Victoria’s Secret stores, will be Pat Wexler and its C.O. Bigelow “modern urban apoth- — M.D. 12 WWD, FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 24, 2006 The Beauty Report L’Oréal Eyes Body Shop Bid The Body Shop Expands By Brid Costello Home Sales to Germany LONDON — Is L’Oréal in an ac- By Molly Prior quisitive mood right now? News that the French beau- NEW YORK — In the early days of building her busi- ty giant might be interested in ness, The Body Shop founder Anita Roddick would buying The Body Shop sent load a grocery cart with leftover inventory each the British beauty manufac- week and go knocking on neighbors’ doors to sell it. turer and retailer’s share Thirty years later, in addition to more than 2,050 price soaring to a 14-year high stores, The Body Shop has an army of consultants in of 2.80 pounds, or $4.90 at cur- three countries who peddle the company’s products rent exchange, during trad- at parties hosted in private homes. ing here Thursday. This fol- The retailer launched the direct-selling division lowed The Body Shop’s share in the U.K. 12 years ago, and introduced it to the price spiking 10.5 percent U.S. nearly fi ve years ago. The home-shopping busi- Wednesday, following rumors ness now operates in the U.K., U.S. and Australia, of a management buyout. and is slated to launch in Germany later this year, L’Oréal indicated Thursday said Paula Antonini, global director of development it has no fi rm plans to buy The for The Body Shop at Home. Body Shop. “When Anita Roddick started The Body Shop in On the London Stock 1976, she was a pioneer in natural products,” Antonini Exchange’s Web site, L’Oréal told attendees of the Direct Selling Association’s con- posted a statement that read, ference held here last week. “Now The Body Shop is “L’Oréal’s management is con- a pioneer in the multichannel world.” tinually evaluating a wide Antonini, who also spent 27 years at Tupperware range of strategic alternatives that may add value to its future development. Brands Corp., acknowledges that many bricks-and- shareholders, including a possible offer for The Body As reported, he said, “L’Oréal has always been a mortar retailers have an online component, but few Shop. Any offer, if made, is likely to be solely in cash. growth business and will remain so. Our ambition is to have pursued direct selling. However, no decision has been made regarding any return to a comparative growth target of 6 percent to 8 offer, L’Oréal’s board has not been consulted and no ap- percent per year. Pursuing this growth will always be proach has been made to The Body Shop.” our number-one priority.” Reached on the phone, a Paris-based L’Oréal Many analysts believe The Body Shop would make a spokesman would not confi rm or deny a possible future good new business for L’Oréal. bid. He added, however, L’Oréal was obliged to issue “I think it makes sense for L’Oréal to be looking at a statement regarding The Body Shop, since London The Body Shop based on comments [L’Oréal] has made Stock Exchange rules stipulate that when a company’s in the last few years about changes in distribution and share price rises by more than 5 percent in one day shifts in personal care and about being closer to the and reports are circulating about a possible acquisi- customer,” said Sandy Beebee, a New York-based con- tion bid, the rumored acquirer must issue a declara- sumer analyst at HSBC. “It doesn’t have a brand like it tion on the subject. in its portfolio, and it has tried to fi ll out areas of weak- For its part, The Body Shop late Thursday published ness in the past. An upper-mass natural cosmetics line a press release responding to L’Oréal’s statement. It said, would be a nice addition.” “The board of The Body Shop notes the announcement “It would be great news,” agreed Manuelle de la today by L’Oréal that it is evaluating a possible offer for Riviere, a Paris-based analyst at Fideuram Wargny, of The Body Shop at Home’s Girl’s Night Out party. The Body Shop. The Body Shop has not received any a possible deal. The Body Shop’s vision of becoming an inte- proposal from L’Oréal. The Board remains confi dent She noted that The Body Shop’s retail structure, grated, multichannel retailer has underpinned its about the future prospects for the group and its ability comprising 2,050 wholly owned and franchised doors success, noted Antonini. For instance, the com- to deliver signifi cant value for its shareholders.” worldwide, would offer L’Oréal an alternative to pres- pany plans promotions across each business unit. To many, a L’Oréal acquisition would come as little tige perfumeries, whose business has been in the dol- Consultants are invited to attend in-store events, surprise, since the company last week unveiled its drums. Indeed, L’Oréal has shown increasing interest where they can recruit party hosts and demonstrate future growth strategy under incoming chief execu- in retail of late, having opened freestanding stores for products. To get started, U.S. consultants purchase tive Jean-Paul Agon. During a meeting for fi nancial its Lancôme and L’Oréal Paris brands. a business kit for $185, or $220 for the deluxe, analysts held in L’Oréal’s Paris headquarters, Agon un- Yet, de la Riviere doesn’t think that a L’Oréal acqui- which includes more products. The kits are fi lled derlined that organic growth is to remain key for the sition of The Body Shop is imminent. with items needed for party themes — Your Face Is company, but that acquisitions will also play a role in “L’Oréal has clearly said that no approach has been Forever, Make It Up, Foot Fun and Spa Experience made to The Body Shop,” she said. “It looks — and printed materials, such as catalogues, along at possible acquisitions all the time.” with a videotape of a typical Girl’s Night Out. L’Oréal snapped up Skinceuticals and The company has found, much to the surprise Delial last year, and bowed out of bidding of store managers, that units located in areas with for Kanebo. a high concentration of consultants see sales in- Other analysts, in the meantime, are skep- creases. The at-home events, dubbed Girl’s Night tical about L’Oréal buying The Body Shop. Out, hook partygoers on the company’s products and “Boots and Superdrug in the U.K. are big socially conscious stance, and try to lead them into customers of L’Oréal’s; how happy are they the store to buy more, explained Antonini. Last year, going to be if L’Oréal buys The Body Shop?” three million guests attended a Girl’s Night Out. said Steve Davies, a London-based retail The Body Shop at Home may also help the re- analyst at Numis. tailer reclaim its heritage in the U.S. market, par- In any event, were a deal to go ahead, it ticularly as its peers — Sephora and Bath & Body would be key to get The Body Shop found- Works — continue to sharpen their edge. ers Anita and Gordon Roddick, who jointly The Body Shop set up here in 1989, but began retain 18 percent of the company, and Ian to lose ground by the late Nineties, when Sephora McGlinn, an early The Body Shop back- made its U.S. debut. er, who holds 22.6 percent, involved, said In 2001, in the midst of its troubles, The Body analyst Richard Ratner of London-based Shop introduced direct selling here, perhaps as Seymour Pierce in a research note. an antidote to stalled growth. Roddick, who now is Other directors in The Body Shop own 3.6 non-executive director, has said she expects home percent. selling to surpass traditional retail. The division If an acquisition were in the cards, accounts for 7.3 percent of The Body Shop’s 2005 Ratner would suggest a price of between 280 retail sales, which totaled 708.7 million pounds or pence, or $3.33, and 300 pence, or $3.58, per $1.23 billion at current exchange. The Body Shop share. “We would be very Last year, The Body Shop at Home, reaped $90 surprised if the levels being talked about million in sales in the U.K., U.S. and Australia, an didn’t appeal to them,” he added. increase of 31 percent over 2004. It is not the fi rst time The Body Shop Antonini said that since stores are beginning to has been an acquisition target. Omnilife of reap the spoils of the home business, the company Mexico was in preliminary talks to take over will expand its direct-selling venture, but in a con- the manufacturer and retailer in 2001 before trolled manner. For the time being, the company will the deal fell through and wiped $60 million focus on markets where it already operates stores. For off The Body Shop’s value. instance, The Body Shop has 86 doors in Germany. The Body Shop shares closed on the The company operates stores in 53 countries. London Stock Exchange Thursday up 7.3 per- Antonini declared, “We are convinced it [The cent at 2.65 pounds, or $4.64, while L’Oréal’s Body Shop at Home] will be a signifi cant driver of closed on the Paris Bourse up 2.35 percent at growth for the company.” 76.25 euros, or $90.87. WWD, FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 24, 2006 13 WWD.COM WWD.COM Puig, Coty Join Fragrance Forces Herington Tapped

Continued from page 2 was seen as a response to the department store consolidation. As Avon Senior VP of Puig’s fragrances will strengthen Coty’s standing even more A spokesman for Coty said the acquisition of the Puig brands NEW YORK — Avon Products and that “will allow us to leverage the position and give us more will add diversity to Coty’s fragrance assortment. With the last has tapped former AOL execu- weight.” reorganization, the company “laid down a new organizational tive Charles M. Herington to fi ll That leverage, he added, will put Puig in a stronger position structure; now we are layering in some products.” the post of senior vice president, “and we will be able to promote our brands.” He stressed that Beetz noted that the addition of Prada to Coty Prestige’s Vera Latin America. Herington re- one of the main advantages is to allow Puig to market its brands Wang and Marc Jacobs brands will solidify the company’s po- places Amilcar Melendez, who more effectively. “We have been operating in this country for sition in specialty stores and “give us a good rhythm.” He also retires this month after a 37-year many years,” Puig continued, “and we wanted to make sure we pointed out that the brand will inject a bit of Italian personality career with Avon. had the best solution to pro- into the portfolio, which also Herington, who previously mote our brands.” In addi- Marc Puig will be enriched by the other served as president and chief tion, the move will help Puig brands. executive offi cer of AOL Latin utilize its resources. With the acquisition of America, has worked in the re- The Puig ceo acknowl- Calvin Klein’s Euphoria and gion for 25 years. He is credited edged that the acquisition of the launch of Sarah Jessica with launching AOL in Latin May Department Stores Co. Parker’s Lovely, Coty has America and had served as ceo by Federated Department two of its women’s fragranc- since 1999, following a brief stint Stores Inc. triggered a es ranked in the top four on as president of Revlon Latin hard look into the future. American fragrance bars in America. However, he maintains that November and two ranked in Herington’s experience consolidation is a fact of life the top three in December. also includes various posi- in every consumer goods This deal will close a long tions at PepsiCo Restaurants market. When asked if his chapter in Puig’s U.S. his- International and the Procter & American prestige business tory. The Spanish company Gamble Co. is now profi table, he replied, has distributed prestige fra- “[Herington’s] proven exper- “We’ve been growing in the grance brands here for de- tise in Latin America, coupled U.S. market.” Since the U.S. cades, dating back to Paco with his experience working is dominated by department Rabanne in 1968. with four major global consumer stores, Puig added, “it is an The Puig ceo said he companies, will be important as- expensive market to serve.” Bernd Beetz could not specify how many sets as we implement our growth Beetz, who was reached jobs would be eliminated, strategies in our large and dy- in the Frankfurt airport just before boarding a plane to New since the transition process has barely begun, even though it namic Latin American region,” York, described the alliance as a good fi t. “We share the same appears that the bulk of positions will be eliminated. Industry said Avon’s chairman and ceo values,” he said. “We are both family-based companies that are sources estimate that 80 jobs are at stake. Andrea Jung in a statement. privately held. We have reached a good platform in the U.S., When asked, Puig indicated that Martha Brady, the current Herington also serves on the particularly in the prestige market. We can really advance the president, will not be part of the remaining marketing team. boards of ADVO, a direct market- portfolio.” Considering her career path and high seniority, Puig said, there ing company, Molson-Coors and In late January, Coty announced a reorganization resulting in will be no “appropriate” place for her on that squad. She will NII Holdings (formerly Nextel the formation of the Coty Prestige division, which was aimed at lead in the transition, he added, noting that Jordi Puig, a vice International). improving the company’s fortunes in specialty stores. The move president and family cousin, will also help in the process. P&G Names Keri Russell Molton Brown Revamps Cosmetics Collection LONDON — Molton Brown’s makeup line is get- Whisper, a sheer satin-finish lipstick said to As New Face of Cover Girl ting a whole new look. moisturize and protect while plumping pouts; The high-end British brand has overhauled its Wonderlips Shine, a volumizing and moisturizing NEW YORK — Cover color cosmetics offer, scrapping its 28-year-old gloss; Wonderlips Glace, a conditioning treatment Girl has found that Keri Russell collection and creating Skincolour, a line set to that offers high shine with volume-boosting prop- it’s hardly impossible bow in April. erties, and Vitamin Lip Sheer, a nourishing balm to land a beautiful The new Molton Brown color palette, which that protects against environmental damage. face to represent its comprises a capsule collection of 48 references, For the eyes, there’s Soft Eye Shade, a condi- brand. is treatment-based, with a focus on highlighting tioning eye shadow, and Gentle Lash Mascara, The latest celebrity the user’s looks rather than attempting to trans- said to strengthen, condition and defi ne lashes. to sign on as a spokes- form them. A blush dubbed Cheek Bloom and man with the Procter Caption will go here “The very core of Molton Brown an applicator brush called The Little & Gamble makeup is about helping you be the you One complete the line. brand is Keri Russell, you want to be,” said Susan Arndt, Prices range in the U.K. from 11 whose next project is chief operating offi cer of the London pounds, or $19 at current exchange, the highly anticipated fi rm. “We’re trying to deliver daily for a 12-ml. Vitamin Lip Sheer lip “Mission: Impossible skin care benefi ts rather than major balm, to 25 pounds, or $44, for a 20- III.” The multiyear change.” ml. Natural Skin Tint moisturizer. The contract is likely to The line includes a range of such Little One brush goes for 27 pounds, or pay the actress as beauty basics as lip color, tinted $47. much as $1 million a moisturizers and blush, in a variety of The collection’s packaging was re- year, according to in- complexion-fl attering hues. The prod- thought to ensure it is in fi tting with the dustry sources. The ucts also offer a plethora of treatment Molton Brown consumer’s lifestyle. fl ick is scheduled to benefi ts. Some lip products contain “We were quite keen to create a col- debut in May, while wild mango butter to moisturize, for lection that was more portable and more Cover Girl expects to example, while the line’s tinted mois- fl exible to use either from a handbag or bow Russell in their turizer features gingko biloba to revi- at home,” said Arndt, explaining many ads in late summer. talize, stimulate and fi rm the skin. of the products come with metallic clo- Russell, 29, became a beauty icon when she catapult- “Most products are very sheer and very sures, so lipsticks don’t lose their caps ed to stardom as the lead in the TV series “Felicity.” Best light,” said Arndt. “We’re focusing more on and stain the insides of handbags, for ex- known for her tendrils of reddish brown hair and make- highlighting and emphasizing customers’ ample. up-free skin, Russell will likely maintain her natural look existing features and personalities.” The Molton Brown makeup line will while adding glamour with the help of Cover Girl’s beauty There’s also a strong focus on per- bow in the U.K. in April and the U.S. in items. Russell will appear in TV and print ads. fecting complexions, highlighted by the May. Its international rollout will put In a statement, Russell said Cover Girl’s mantra of collection’s face category. Part of the new range. products in stores by early summer. “Easy, Breezy, Beautiful” fi ts in well with her own fresh, It includes Natural Skin Tint, Molton Brown executives declined natural style. an antiaging tinted moisturizer; Natural Skin to discuss sales estimates, but industry sources Russell’s work includes roles in the “The Upside of Anger,” Radiance, a light-diffusing serum; Natural Skin estimate Skincolour could make $20 million in alongside Kevin Costner and Joan Allen, and “We Were Highlights, a radiance-boosting highlighter said retail sales its fi rst year. Soldiers,” opposite Mel Gibson. She made her New York stage to have antiaging benefits and to strengthen The brand plans to grab consumers’ attention debut in 2004 at the Lucile Lortel Theater in the off-Broadway skin; Natural Skin Finish, a translucent pow- through in-store promotional campaigns rather production of Neil Labute’s “Fat Pig,” which also costarred der; Bareface Bronze, a moisturizing, nourishing than advertising. Merchandising units, inspired Andrew McCarthy and Jeremy Piven. She is currently fi lm- and fi rming gel bronzer; Bareface Glow, a matte by Thirties and Forties dressing tables, will be ing “August Rush,” opposite Robin Williams, Jonathan Rhys bronzing powder; Take Cover Eyes, an antiaging used to display products in boutiques. Myers and Terrence Howard, and will be seen in the psycho- concealer for the eye area, and Take Cover Face, “It gives us a very attractive and intriguing ap- logical thriller “Butterfl y, A Grimm Love Story.” a healing concealer for the face. pearance in stores,” said Arndt. — Andrea Nagel For lips, the collection includes Wonderlips — Brid Costello 14 WWD, FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 24, 2006 The Beauty Report A Makeup Sponge for Divas

By Andrea Nagel Their fi lm and TV credits include work on “Lost,” “Buffy the Vampire Slayer” and “Girlfriends.” NEW YORK — Behind the beauty industry’s fi rst $20 The Beautyblender sponge comes with a plastic makeup sponge are two very determined makeup art- pedestal — an alternative to a germ-infested bath- ists. The duo needs to be driven, seeing that they’re room counter — and an organza bag, a detail they trying to get store placement for an item that usually hope will eliminate the “dirty, brown, ugly sponge retails for 16 cents. that was probably supposed to be thrown out months But their moxie is paying off. This spring, ago” tumbling inside makeup bags. Beautyblender, a hot pink, teardrop-shaped, rubber Privately funded, Silva and Lorenz have poured more makeup applicator — complete with its own pedestal than their heart and soul into Beautyblender. But they’re — will be available in Victoria’s Secret’s beauty cata- pleased to be able to bring the public an item that they logue, as well as on the Victoria’s Secret Web site. Rea — and their peers — have been using for years. Ann Silva and Veronica Lorenz, the creators of the “The shape of the sponge is not a marketing tool, high-end makeup applicator, are scheduled to debut it is a functional shape,” said Lorenz, explaining that Beautyblender and Blendercleanser their item on QVC in April in a six-minute segment, makeup artists usually cut off the sharp edges of tradi- fresh fragrance. And, and they’ve hired sales representatives on both coasts, tional, angled sponges to more evenly apply makeup. the sponges are recycla- as well as in Chicago, to develop distribution. “It’s a secret we know, and that all our peers know, but ble. “They are rubber so they don’t disappear. We found Indeed they’re making strides to get noticed, but no one has ever thought of it for the masses,” she said. someone who can recycle it into stuffi ng for stuffed ani- Beautyblender’s Los Angeles-based parent company, Beautyblender is best used a little damp for any type of mals or carpet padding,” said Lorenz. Silenz Beauty Inc., is like many start-ups: Eager to get cream makeup. “You’ll see your pores and the texture of For QVC, the two created a pedestal that can hold into doors, but challenged by gaps in the marketplace. your own skin — if you want to,” Lorenz said. two Beautyblender sponges, which will sell for an intro- “The application process of makeup is an ignored Blendercleanser is also available, for $17.95, to ductory price of $29.95. They are also using Hollywood area. Every brand eventually creates an applicator line, keep the sponge clean. “Women will spend thousands connections to get the word out: Product placement but it is an afterthought. None cater to evolving the tools. on skin care and cosmetic surgery, but not think twice in Warner Brothers’ gift bags at the Academy Awards We are doing that, and at the same time, providing the about rubbing a dirty sponge on their face,” said Silva. March 5 will likely get Beautyblender in some of

consumer with our secrets from fi lm and TV,” said Silva. The cleanser is soy-based, hypoallergenic and utilizes a Hollywood’s most glamorous hands. MITRA ROBERT PHOTO BY Clarins Additions Aim to Save Face Grooming Line Targets U.S. NEW YORK — It may have the ring of a Guy Ritchie fi lm, but a new men’s hair NEW YORK — With Clarins expanding its skin care line, customers should be able to care brand called Lock Stock & Barrel Grooming wasn’t inspired by a motion exfoliate and protect their skin while glossing up this summer. picture. The company plans to introduce four facial sunscreens designed with multiple Salon proprietor Mark Snowdon, who was a sniper commando in the British benefi ts, including moisturizing and antiaging effects, this March. “We felt it was Royal Marines, simply wanted the name to convey a masculine air. Snowdon important for us to bring a new SPF technology to the marketplace,” said Caroline and Rachel Ferrie — his former wife and current business partner — launched Pieper-Vogt, senior vice president of marketing for Clarins. “It’s beyond sun pro- the brand in the U.K. last fall. tection — it’s skin care with an antiaging benefi t.” Now, they have planned a U.S. The lineup, with products ranging in price from $24.50 to $27.50, features a Sun- launch of the nine-item shampoo, Control Stick Ultra Protection SPF 30, two Sun Wrinkle Control Creams with SPF 15 conditioner and styling aid assort- and SPF 30, and a Sun Wrinkle Control Eye Contour Cream SPF 30. The sun stick con- ment this spring. “We saw there was tains shea butter, wild mango and vitamin A. The ingredients of both the eye contour a huge opening” in the men’s mar- cream and sun wrinkle control cream are said to keep the skin moist and soft; olive, ket, Ferrie contended, so “we spent pea and baobab extracts, the plant-based complex phyto-sunactyl II, are said to pre- the last several years developing a vent premature aging, and mineral fi lters protect the skin from UVA and UVB rays. men’s range.” Pieper-Vogt predicts the sun wrinkle control eye contour cream will shine Ferrie, who began working at bright. “It’s the new sun protection made just for the eyes,” she said. “It’s the a salon at age 14, got Snowdon world’s fi rst pair of cosmetic sunglasses.” The sun protection consumer market into the hair business. In spans a broad audience of both men and women, but the exfoliating body scrub 1985, they opened a salon in and lip tints tend to attract women 30-plus. Birmingham, England — and “The consumers buying our makeup and body care products have economic eventually operated four sa- and fi nancial power and are looking for something a bit more sophisticated as they lons there. The Lock Stock & start the transition out of the brand they used in their twenties,” said Pieper-Vogt. They sold the salon business Barrel lineup. In April, Clarins will launch the $34 Smoothing Body Scrub For a New Skin, and launched a women’s hair care brand in Europe which is said to exfoliate, condition and fi rm skin. According to Pieper-Vogt, it in the early Nineties called Fred. helps to reduce cellulite while removing toxins. It contains bamboo powders, mo- Their newest venture, Lock Stock & Barrel, is ringa and shea butter. carried at U.K. salons, Harvey Nichols locations in “We found a way not just to exfoliate but purify, detoxify, moisturize and soften. Dublin and Manchester, Liberty of London and at It provides an imperceptible veil on the surface of the skin, making the skin feel mankind.co.uk. soft and supple without the redness,” said Pieper-Vogt. Ferrie said Lock Stock & Barrel is selling better Finally, Lip Colour Tints, launching in June, are said to offer a creamy, supple than expected, noting that Harvey Nichols is “tun- texture to enhance the lips. According to Piper-Vogt, Acacia micropearls fi ll in any ing into men’s grooming. They’ve set up areas for of the lips’ wrinkles and lines, while providing a slight plumping effect. The tints men to go into and get moisturizers.” are available in nine fl oral and fruity fragrances, among them raspberry, peach, Ferrie came to the U.S. two years ago to set up Charles Aston, a Boca iris and rose, and will retail for $19 each. Raton, Fla., distribution company for Lock Stock & Barrel in the U.S. As the “It’s a new breed because it’s not lipstick and not gloss — it’s somewhere in be- collection was developed over the past few years, Ferrie researched differ- tween,” said Pieper-Vogt. “The tint sits in between major trends we are seeing.” ences in the U.K. and U.S. markets, namely the major role of distributors in All products will retail at approximately 1,200 major U.S. department and special- the U.S. salon market. ty stores, and at the three freestanding Clarins boutiques Ferrie’s U.S. strategy for Lock Stock & Barrel is for the brand to be carried in New York City. at salons as well as upscale specialty stores. She is negotiating with several National print advertising will break in May and major U.S. salon distributors, as well as with high-end specialty and depart- June in fashion, beauty and lifestyle magazines for the ment store chains. exfoliating product. Special “Some guys don’t want to buy [products] in a salon,” she said, and others promotions will revolve Clarins sun protection “want a grooming area especially for them.” around the 10th annual products and The brand is now available in the U.S. at groomingmenusa.com, and Ferrie Self Challenge for the lip colors. expects to enter U.S. salons and retailers as early as April. If all goes well, she body scrub. Clarins, the said Lock Stock & Barrel could be carried in as many as 5,000 points of sale in exclusive beauty sponsor the U.S. by yearend, with wholesale volume of $7 million to $8 million. of the event, has chosen The Lock Stock & Barrel assortment features 8.45-oz. shampoos and treat- the scrub to be highlighted. ments and 2.5-oz. styling aids. The line includes Soak moisturizing shampoo, A customer will receive a $18; Lock Stock White moisturizing conditioner, $17; Big It Up thickening one-year subscription to hair wash, $19.50, and Q leave-in treatment spray, $20. Styling aids include 85 Self with the purchase of Karats Grooming Clay, $20; The Daddy Classic Wax, $18.75; The Gooch Hair any two Clarins body prod- Gum, $18.45; Pucka Grooming Crème, $16.75, and Large It Power Gel, $20.50. ucts. Pieper-Vogt declined to Ferrie has plans to expand Lock Stock & Barrel to Canada. In Europe, discuss sales projections, but Snowdon plans to roll out the brand to Scandinavia in the fall. Distribution in industry sources estimated France, Italy and Germany is planned within the next 12 months. that the new products would Ferrie acknowledged a number of new Lock Stock & Barrel products are add about $11 million at retail being developed, including back bar items, but remained mum about details. during the launch period. However, the brand is said to be eyeing getting into hair color. — Michelle Edgar — Matthew W. Evans PHOTO BY JOHN PHOTO BY WWD, FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 24, 2006 15 WWD.COM WWD.COM IsaDora Names Creative Director IsaDora’s bronzer. NEW YORK — In its quest to stand out from the competition, last year has had success with Finland’s Walgreens added an exclusive beauty line from Sweden in all of its 5,100 Lumene, which also has a IsaDora’s lip stores called IsaDora. makeup artist, named Kyriaki, gloss and Yesterday, Walgreens and IsaDora packed more punch for the line on staff. Target, in addition to its eye shadow with the announcement that makeup artist Brigitte Reiss-Andersen will internally created Sonia Kashuk quad. serve as creative director and spokesperson. Known for her work with brand, is experimenting with im- celebrities including Michelle Pfeiffer and Courteney Cox, she will act as ports such as the Agatha fragrance. a spokesperson and press conduit, as well as an expert on formulations CVS and Target are both still engaged in and application. In addition to distribution in Walgreens, IsaDora is a tests of Boots products. leading brand in Europe, sold in 40 countries mostly via department or “Retailers are looking for ways to differentiate themselves,” said Allan specialty stores. There is also a stand-alone store in Moscow. Mottus, beauty industry analyst and management consultant. “It is hard to do it Walgreens fi rst tested IsaDora in select stores in Texas before a full with unknown names, but you can do it if you build upon it.” chain rollout last year. IsaDora nets prime retail space on Walgreens’ What Walgreens hopes it has going for it is its powerhouse team of beauty cosmetics wall — trumping nationally supported la- advisers who have been trained by IsaDora staff. Since bels such as Revlon and L’Oréal. Industry sources IsaDora is positioned as a fashion-forward line — fi ve sea- estimate the brand could end 2006 with sales of $10 sonal color breaks will be launched yearly — the presence million. Currently, there are 350 items in the line. of the sales help could make a big difference in IsaDora’s “We’re thrilled with the results we’ve received sell-through. Other promotional efforts behind IsaDora from IsaDora. The merchandise gives us more op- include in-store radio advertising and spots in most portunity to serve our beauty customers with an in- Walgreens’ circulars. ternationally well-known brand of cosmetics at abso- IsaDora also had to alter its displays to accommodate the lutely amazing prices,” said Kathy Steirly, beauty divisional merchandise lack of testers in America. The fi xture in Walgreens was created especially for the manager for Walgreens. “The brand delivers the quality they love at val- U.S. At this point, IsaDora is only set for growth within Walgreens. “We are happy ues they appreciate.” with our partnership and we share the same core philosophies,” said Johansson. IsaDora executives agree that However, IsaDora executives do plan to expand the range of products to it has performed beyond expec- include more skin, sun and holiday fragrance sets. tations. “We’ve earned our place At yesterday’s press event, the company announced six new product catego- in their stores,” said Ingrid-Marie ries as well as new summer colors. The new items are a Brush-On Gloss, a Johansson, of Invima of Malmo, IsaDora’s Cream Intensive Lipstick, a lip balm with vitamins called Lip Treat, Lip Treat parent. The time was right for expan- Color, Mega Mascara Lengthening and a Gentle Eye Makeup-Up Remover. sion into the U.S., she said, because of Prices range from $3.99 for the remover milk to $11.99 for the Mega Mascara. the sheer size of the market. Two summer color promotions will bow in May. The fi rst is called The Malibu She added that although Color Collection, inspired by the hues of the Pacifi c Ocean, such as turquoise, IsaDora is from Sweden, the col- warm orange and coral. There is a limited-edition bronzer and highlighting ors within the line are appro- powder in one called Sun Glow Powder, as well as lipsticks, gloss, eye shadows, priate for women of all com- mascara and a kajal within the lineup. plexions. In fact, for the U.S. The other seasonal collection is called Terracotta Glow Collection designed launch, IsaDora overhauled to enhance summertime beauty. The shimmering makeup colors impart a fresh- its entire color collection to ly tanned look and include gloss, lip color, blush, bronzing powder and a pow- meet the shade needs of the der brush. Prices range from $7.99 for the brush to $12.99 for a Duo Blush. diverse American popula- The jury is still out on the consumer pulling power of both private labels tion. The products are also and imported exclusive brands. But, Walgreens is putting signifi cant space and hypoallergenic, fragrance- manpower behind IsaDora. “We are a destination for beauty. Our customers free and not tested on animals. like to stay ahead of the curve and IsaDora offers trendsetting products. We Walgreens isn’t the only American want our customers to look like a million bucks while still being budget savvy,” chain luring nameplates from Europe. CVS concluded Walgreens’ spokeswoman Tiffani Bruce. BJ’s French Flair Dove Taps Felicity Huffman for Calming Night By Crystal Martin By Molly Prior In each vignette — directed by Penny Marshall — Huffman plays herself, a mother of two girls, NEW YORK — Nestled in the minimalist expanse of BJ’s NEW YORK — Dove has recruited “Desperate who after her nighttime shower is transported to Wholesale Club is a unique concept in mass-market beauty Housewives” star Felicity Huffman to sell a dream world where she fi nds herself playing retailing. The big-box retailer aligned itself with a French women on the habit of showering before bed. a character in episodes of “The Brady Bunch,” contract manufacturer to develop an exclusive skin care line, Huffman stars in three “webisodes,” or “The Munsters” and “Leave It to Beaver.” called Altaire Paris. short films, on Dovenight.com. The online Through her cameos in the classic TV BJ’s approach marks a change in strategy for the mass mar- promotion, which runs through April 9, touts shows, Huffman learns that even seemingly ket. For four years, drugstore chains have attempted to inject Dove’s Calming Night collection of bath and perfect TV moms, like June Cleaver, use tricks exclusivity and cachet into their stores by adding established body products. to cope with stress. European brands, including IsaDora cosmetics (Walgreens), The Unilever brand Swisso Logical skin care (Rite Aid) and Lumene and Boots introduced the effort on beauty products (CVS). Sunday by airing a TV BJ’s, however, has taken a less-traveled route to European ad during “Desperate Dove’s online promotion territory. The Massachusetts-based retail club developed its col- Housewives” in 17 mar- for Calming Night features lection of six items with French manufacturer Kelemata Group. kets, directing viewers Felicity Huffman. The retailer’s executives recognized an opportunity in the to Dovenight.com. The beauty category, said BJ’s beauty care buyer Laurie Stucchi. larger markets includ- “Our core customer doesn’t have time to shop with us and then ed New York, Chicago, go to a department store for her beauty products,” said Stucchi. Philadelphia, Detroit, Rather than pluck an established European brand, BJ’s San Francisco, Dallas wanted to have creative input to ensure the line would align and Houston. with the tastes of its target consumer — well-educated “time- Since Sunday evening, starved” mothers with high incomes. Dovenight.com has re- “We probably could have brought in one of Kelemata’s ceived more than 89,200 lines,” said Stucchi, “But we wanted to take the product a step hits, and online visitors further and a step up.” Kelemata, owner of megabrands Perlier have requested more than and Orlane, offered an ideal partnership, noted Stucchi. She 50,000 samples of Calming added that by choosing a large manufacturer, BJ’s avoided the Night products, said a steep costs of development. Stucchi said Kelemata’s production Dove spokeswoman. capabilities made developing a brand from scratch just as cost The effort ramps up effective as importing one. after March 1, with ads slated to appear in With a full slate of products planned for The strategy has proved successful since its November People, US Weekly and TV Guide. TV spots are 2006, Dove was also looking for a spokesman launch, said Stucchi. Altaire Paris is on track to reach its $2 also scheduled to air on “Grey’s Anatomy” and to represent its Energy Glow bath and body million fi rst-year sales goal. Items in the line range in price “Survivor.” collection. Industry sources said one of the from $12.99 for the Cream Cleanser and Firming Toner to The microsite, powered by AOL, includes celebrities being considered by the Unilever $24.99 for the Time Fighting Eye Cream and Ageless Firming tips from the National Sleep Foundation for brand is Finola Hughes, host of the makeover Face Serum. All six products are available in a trial-sized kit winding down before bed, and features the AOL show “How Do I Look” on the Style Network. priced at $12.99 each. Stucchi noted that the set and the face CEO Contest, a search for an impressive mul- A Dove spokeswoman said Thursday that the serum are among the collection’s bestsellers, and added that titasking “Chief Everything Offi cer.” Dove will brand no longer plans to use a spokesman to BJ’s plans to expand the line. promote Dovenight.com on AOL properties. tout Energy Glow. 16 WWD, FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 24, 2006 WWD.COM The Beauty Report WWD.COM Gordon on Track With Arden By Julie Naughton And Gordon, who jokes that for a long time Jeff he was the only non-smelly guy in Victory Lane, DAYTONA BEACH, Fla. — Despite a rocky run at the Gordon remains enthusiastic about winning new users Daytona 500, held here this past Sunday, Jeff Gordon is for the brand. “Oh, heck, yeah — we’ve already still moving in high gear. got them converted! You walk into that track,” A collision with fellow racer Tony Stewart on the 48th he laughed, “and it smells like a big Elizabeth lap of the course caused Gordon — the defending Daytona Arden counter. These guys are doing everything champ — to fi nish a disappointing 26th in this year’s race, they can to cover up the smells of burning rubber but the veteran driver doesn’t dwell too long on the past. and gasoline!” He’s too busy looking forward. Despite the packed sched- This spring, three limited-edition gift sets, ule of race weekend, he took time to help promote a new including mini stock cars and cooler bags, will Elizabeth Arden men’s fragrance called Daytona 500. be released to a number of retailers, including Not that he needs the money: His prize earnings over J.C. Penney, Sears, Target and Wal-Mart. Gordon 15 years of NASCAR races are said to be more than $75 doesn’t necessarily see a women’s Halston Z-14 million and endorsement deals probably have pushed that version in the offi ng: “I think we all hope that total over $100 million. But the 34-year-old Gordon is be- men are buying it because they want to smell ginning to think about life beyond the track. Although he good for their wives, and we hope women are says his retirement is still several years off, he doesn’t plan buying it because they like the way it smells on to be racing in 10 years. their husbands. We want everyone buying this “If I’m not out there winning, I don’t want to be out brand. there,” he said emphatically. “That’s what it’s all about. “Although,” he added with a laugh, “maybe my “In some way, I will always be a part of racing,” he con- girlfriend [model Ingrid Vandebosch] might be tinued. “As a driver? Probably not at this level 10 years interested in doing a women’s scent.” from now. I love racing, but there are other things in my Between laps on the track at Daytona, Gordon, life that I don’t want to pursue today, but that I’m look- an ardent philanthropist, was fulfi lling a Make- ing forward to when that time comes. The business side a-Wish child’s dream to be part of the day (the of racing has been exciting to me — I do have fun with the 150th such wish he’s been a part of). He founded marketing, and I enjoy doing things like Regis and Kelly. the Jeff Gordon Foundation, a nonprofi t 501c Hollywood? I’m not an actor, but if it fi ts and the opportu- (3) organization, in 1999. The foundation pro- nity comes around, like ‘Saturday Night Live’ did, [then I vides support for several designated charities will]. I don’t want to be a full-time actor, but I enjoy being — including the Make-a-Wish Foundation, the able to dabble in it when it makes sense.” Leukemia and Lymphoma Society, the Marrow Gordon has guest-hosted “Live With Regis and Kelly” Foundation, the Hendrick Marrow Foundation, eight times, and has also been a guest host on “Saturday the Riley Hospital for Children and the Jeff Night Live.” And he has been featured in numerous ad Gordon Children’s Hospital at Northeast Medical campaigns, for everything from Pepsi to Foster Grant sun- Center in Concord, N.C., a 26,800-square-foot fa- glasses, over the years. His primary sponsor is DuPont, and cility scheduled to open later this year. Gordon’s besides his relationship with Arden — a three-year con- foundation also supports other charities on a tract to represent Halston Z-14, which he signed in spring case-by-case basis. 2004 — Gordon has deals with Pepsi and Tag Heuer. Many celebrities pay lip service to the idea The driver’s name even appears on wines produced of philanthropy, but when Gordon gets passion- by Briggs & Sons Winemaking, a Calistoga, Calif., ate about the charities he supports and why, you winery. tend to believe the guy isn’t in it for the p.r. value. Still, he’s not ready to give up racing. He “Most of the foundation’s work is geared around is a three-time Daytona 500 winner, having leukemia, because my fi rst crew chief ’s son was taken the trophy in 1997, 1999 and 2005. diagnosed with leukemia when he was one,” said Gordon, leaning He is a four-time NASCAR Cup Series forward in his chair. “We added bone marrow charities after that Champion (in 1995, 1997, 1998 and 2001) — Rick Hendrick [owner of Hendrick Motorsports, a major rac- and a three-time champion of the Nextel The Daytona ing force] was diagnosed with leukemia, and he then started the All-Star Challenge (in 1995, 1997 and 2001), 500 fragrance. Hendrick Marrow Foundation, so we also support that. And Make- among many other honors. And one race a-Wish is a great organization — with the sick kids, whatever their does not a season make. The Nextel Cup wish is, they make it happen. A lot of them have cancer. I found season title is determined by a point sys- out a lot of kids want to come to the races.” tem that involves 26 races. After the 26th In some ways, Gordon feels that he gets more out of it than the race of the season, all drivers in the top 10, kids do. “Coming face-to-face with these kids, seeing the strength as well as any others within 400 points of the they’re showing, it really is humbling to me — and it makes me want leader, compete in the Chase for the Nextel to do more. But it also really helps put things in perspective for me Cup. The scores here, combined with the points in life, and it feels great to be able to put a smile on a kid’s face, espe- accrued earlier in the season, decide the winner. cially a kid that hasn’t had a lot to smile about.” For instance, Gordon lost the Daytona 500 in 1995, Speaking of perspective — do the risks of his chosen profession ever yet fi nished fi rst in total points for the season, handily come to mind as he’s racing? “The longer you’re out there, the more com- winning the title. fortable you get,” said Gordon of racing at speeds topping 180 miles per hour. Even though he’s the one behind the wheel, Gordon gives “Over the years, I’ve gotten more comfortable. But fear is defi nitely part of the the lion’s share of the credit for his success to his crew. “We’ve made a lot of chang- fabric of our sport. If I didn’t have fear, I’d crash all the time, because I wouldn’t es over the off-season, and we needed to,” Gordon said, alluding to 2005 as a “tough know my limits. So having fear is important, because it keeps you from going over year. We know we’re capable of doing a lot more than that, and there’s a lot of the edge.” excitement in the team right now, not to mention the changes to try to step the That need for speed is something he’s felt since early childhood. “I was a dare- performance up. The personnel side of it is very important. We’ve made changes devil kid, and I lived on a big steep hill,” he said of his Northern California home- in the pit crew and crew chief.” town of Vallejo, where he and his older sister Kim spent part of their childhood. Before heading to the racetrack last weekend, Gordon gave an interview at an “Every day when I’d get home from school, it was all about ‘What can we ride down event here promoting Arden’s new Daytona 500 scent. The juice, which Arden calls this hill and survive?’ ” Gordon said with a chuckle, remembering that his mother, a “fresh, masculine modern fragrance,” has top notes of yuzu, bergamot and man- Carol, had told his stepfather, John Bickford, that a bicycle he’d given fi ve-year-old darin; a heart of tarragon, sage, maté and watery accord, and a drydown of nutmeg, Gordon was too dangerous — which led to the purchase of a quarter-midget race cardamom, amber and sandalwood. The bottle, inspired by race cars, is a clear glass car, setting Gordon on his path. “We tried bicycles, skateboards. I remember going cylinder with a silver chrome rim and red and black accents. The collection com- to the junkyard and fi nding a little pedal car, and we rode that down the hill. [John] prises eaux de toilette, 1.7 oz. for $30 and 3.4 oz. for $40; a 3.4-oz. aftershave pour, thought I would be the next A.J. Foyt, but I was just having fun.” $30, and a $45 gift set with a 3.4-oz. eau de toilette and a 3.4-oz. aftershave. It will Still, it often doesn’t feel like he’s going that fast, Gordon said. “When you’re out launch in April at J.C. Penney and Sears. Sources say it could do $10 million at re- there going 180, 190 miles an hour, lap after lap after lap, it feels like 55,” he said. tail in its fi rst year on counter. “It usually feels like that, until something goes wrong. And that’s when fear kicks in Arden is not the only beauty company that has headed to the track. Rival L’Oréal as well. I realize how dangerous it is, and we prepare the best we can. We protect signed Dale Earnhardt Jr. in 2002 to represent its Drakkar Noir scent — and for ourselves, make it as safe as possible, and NASCAR does as well. And you’ve got to good reason. The sport’s 75 million fans, 40 percent of whom are women, are loyal, be smart. You can’t be out there just acting silly. You’re racing with professionals, and they like to buy. Arden president and chief operating offi cer Paul West under- and everyone has to act like professionals.” scored that point by alluding to the strong sales of Halston Z-14. The spicy juice, Surprisingly, Gordon says he’s no speed demon when it comes to the freeways. with a bottle designed by jewelry designer and former Halston model Elsa Peretti, “Everybody gives me a hard time [there] because they think I drive too slow,” he was originally released in 1976. Until Gordon appeared on the scene — with ads said with a laugh. “I think I get it out of my system on the racetrack. I haven’t had that broke in February 2005 — the fragrance was said to be doing about $10 mil- a speeding ticket in quite some time, and even then it was usually because I was lion at retail a year. While he didn’t confi rm the number, West did say that sales of on the cell phone, talking and not paying attention to the fact that I’d just gone Halston Z-14 have risen 50 percent since Gordon’s ads began appearing. through a speed zone.” “I didn’t know I could look that good,” Gordon said with a chuckle, pointing to On the track or off, Gordon loves what he does for a living. “I think what’s kept the 5 o’clock shadow he’s sporting in the Halston Z-14 print ad. “My other sponsors me going over the years is seeing that checkered fl ag,” Gordon said. “To see that make me shave — most of the time, that is.” checkered fl ag waving at you, it changes your whole life.” WWDSALON PHOTO BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI PHOTO BY GIOVANNI Launching March 31, 2006 Ad Close: March 3, 2006

A new magazine for stylists, salon owners, editors and select consumers, WWDSALON translates fashion, glamour and inspiration from the runway to reality.

For more information contact Sarah Murphy, publisher, at 212-630-4656 or your WWD sales representative. 18 WWD, FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 24, 2006 WWD.COM Media/Advertising Looking for Fashion in the Muslim World By Samantha Conti want to show the rest of the world that we can produce whom we’re speaking are inspired by the challenge of pio- a respectable creative title.” neering a new kind of fashion aesthetic that doesn’t rely on LONDON — For as long as he can remember, Villa Moda The time is certainly ripe for a high-end magazine: nudity and overt sexuality to make a convincing image.” founder Majed Al-Sabah has been fl ipping through Climbing oil prices are fueling an economic Alef will have an initial print run of 60,000 to 70,000, Middle Eastern fashion magazines — and wincing boom in the Persian Gulf, fashion brands small by American standards, and will be distributed with pain. such as Giorgio Armani and Versace are at newsstands, in hotels and on partner airlines in the In a typical magazine, Chanel ads sit next opening luxury hotels in the region Middle East, and on newsstands in major U.S., European to ones for Head & Shoulders, Louis Vuitton and department stores like Saks Fifth and Southeast Asian cities. The copy will be in English, spreads appear alongside ones for cleaning Avenue and Harvey Nichols are open- with Arabic subtitles. The cover price is still being de- detergent, photos are pixilated and stories ing franchised stores there. termined, although Reddy said it will be 4 pounds in the are cut and pasted from Western titles with- Reddy said he plans to fill the Middle East and 5 pounds in the West, or $6.96 to $8.70. out any regard for copyright. And he’s not magazine with fashion, beauty, de- The launch issue will be slightly more than 200 pages, taking it anymore. sign, food, fi lm, music and celebrity and advertisers will include major luxury brands, said For fall, Al-Sabah will launch his own coverage. About 70 percent of Alef will Reddy, although he declined to reveal any names. magazine, to be called Alef: A New Language of Alef’s logo. be devoted to Middle Eastern culture, he Al-Sabah said he hopes Alef will play another role, Beauty. “We want to become the fashion maga- said, even though the magazine will be as well. “I want the magazine to be an ambassador from zine of record in the Middle East,” said Al-Sabah over a published out of New York and have a satellite offi ce in the Middle East, something that refl ects the beauty of cup of tea at the Berkeley Hotel here. “We want to posi- Kuwait. Stories will also focus on hot gallerists and phi- the region and shows that it’s not only about Osama bin tion ourselves as a must-read for fashion insiders.” lanthropists, regional celebrities and royals. Al-Sabah Laden, Saddam Hussein and terrorism.” Al-Sabah said he’s creating the magazine mostly out said he’s hoping his name and position in the Middle of necessity. “I have franchises to look after now, and East (he hails from a big Kuwaiti family) will help the they have ad budgets, but there’s no place to put the magazine gain access to VIPs’ homes. ads — except for the cut-and-paste magazines,” he said. “A lot of Middle Eastern people are afraid of the tab- “And that’s money down the drain.” loids, afraid of exposing their lives to strangers. If they Alef, which is the letter A in Arabic, will bow with know I’m behind it, they may be more willing,” suggest- a September issue and come out four times a year. Al- ed Al-Sabah. Sabah, whose money is behind the project, hopes even- Reddy said the magazine wants to have a mix of in- tually to ramp the number of issues up to 10 a year. ternationally known photographers and local talent. He’s named Sameer Reddy, formerly of hintmag.com “But, don’t worry, it’s not going to become an affi rmative and Bidoun Magazine, as Alef ’s editor and publisher. action program for the locals,” he said. Paul de Zwart, co-founder and former publisher of Reddy said he doesn’t see the Middle East’s more con- Wallpaper*, is consultant publisher. Edward Jowdy is servative social mores as a barrier to a hip fashion title. creative director, Sam Shahid is editor at large and con- “I’m more interested in working to fi nd innovative ways tributors include Samira Nasr and Horacio Silva. to express sensuality and beauty instead of resorting to “It wouldn’t take much to raise the bar on magazines the lowest common denominator of sex to create a strong in the Middle East,” said Reddy with a laugh, “but we do image,” he said. “And I think the major photographers with A spread from the fi rst issue.

BELLE GRANDE: Fat is taboo in the fashion industry — unless you happen to be a magazine publisher, of course. Condé Nast is crowing about the March issue of Spanish Vogue, which weighs in at just under 6 pounds and boasts 1,006 pages. The magazine, with MEMO PAD 248 ad pages — 20 percent more than last year — is the biggest issue of Vogue ever published in the world. It hit newsstands in Spain this week. The March issue, whose cover was shot by Karl Lagerfeld, consists of a 400-page CARUSO SUITS UP: There’s nothing like a good lawsuit to highlight the peculiarities of life in magazine and a 606-page fashion supplement focused on the spring collections. The two the House of Wenner. Former Men’s Journal editor in chief Michael Caruso fi led such a suit parts are bound together. earlier this week in New York State Supreme Court, seeking $5 million in compensation and “We’re very proud — and exhausted,” said Yolanda Sacristán, the magazine’s editor, damages from owner Jann Wenner, who, he claims, breached their contract. who put together the package without extra staff. “Despite the number of pages, we think The 37-page complaint (its the quality remained the same.” existence was fi rst reported by She said she didn’t think the Gawker.com) alleges Caruso’s magazine’s monstrous proportions — or departure from Wenner Media last slightly higher cover price of 3.50 euros October was not voluntary but, ($6.10) — would scare readers. rather, a fi ring motivated by, among “It’s a fashion collections issue, other factors, age discrimination. so it’s meant to stay around for the (Caruso, who is 44, was replaced next six months. I think readers will by 32-year-old Tom Foster, who use it as an instrument.” Why not allegedly told others Wenner had — it probably weighs as much as a been looking for younger editors.) cello. And Spanish Vogue didn’t have Under the terms of his employment to worry about the poor mailmen agreement — attached to the throwing out their backs — like most complaint as Exhibit A — Caruso other European titles, the magazine was entitled to his base salary relies on newsstand sales, rather than of $400,000 for one year after subscriptions. termination, providing he was not So why did it have to be so big? dismissed for cause. The suit also Sacristán said the idea came from says Caruso was owed substantial the magazine’s managing director performance bonuses for 2005, of Javier Pascual. “The Spanish women’s which he was paid only $34,606. magazines often offer free gadgets — (The fact that he was paid any like umbrellas — or they spend their bonus at all, however, is cited money on TV advertising. We never in the document as proof that do anything like that. So Javier’s idea his dismissal was not for cause.) was to give our readers more Vogue, Finally, the complaint asks for more pages, more information.” And compensatory damages of $1.5 to get more revenue from that higher million and punitive damages of $3 million. cover price. Caruso, who referred questions to his attorney, is not the fi rst ex-Wenner employee to Sacristán, who is currently covering the collections in Milan, said her team is already resort to legal recourse. In 2003, former Us Weekly editor in chief Terry McDonell sued gearing up for a second bumper issue — in September. “This issue is a real milestone for over unpaid pension benefi ts; the case was settled. A Wenner spokesman said Caruso’s us, both because of the size and because it’s the fi rst Lagerfeld cover,” said Sacristán, claims were “completely without merit,” but Caruso’s lawyer, David B. Wechsler, claimed who’s been editor for the past fi ve years. the company’s having a history of such disputes could infl uence the outcome: “To the “But let’s wait and see. We don’t know yet whether our readers will read it and like extent that there may be a pattern in practice here, it would have bearing on the case.” it.” — Samantha Conti Whatever the end result, the publicity surrounding the suit won’t help Wenner’s efforts to fi nd a replacement for Rolling Stone publisher Steve DeLuca, who exited the SPIN’S NEW ORBIT: San Francisco-based publisher Tom Hartle hasn’t fi nalized a deal to company last week, reportedly after objecting to Jann Wenner’s attempts to cut costs buy Spin yet, but that doesn’t mean he’s not lining up his team. According to a source from the magazine’s upcoming 1,000th issue celebration. Last Saturday, a day after with knowledge of Hartle’s preparations, he has offered the job of editor in chief to Andy announcing DeLuca’s departure, Wenner contacted Jane magazine publisher Carlos Pemberton, a former editor in chief of Dennis Publishing’s Blender and of the British rock Lamadrid to gauge his interest in the job. Lamadrid, who served as Men’s Journal’s title Q. As publisher, Hartle plans to hire Malcolm Campbell, who launched Blender with publisher during Caruso’s tenure, confi rmed he had been called but said he preferred Pemberton and has also been publisher of Spin. No word on what Hartle (who, as WWD to remain at Jane (which is a unit of Condé Nast Publications, parent of WWD). reported earlier this month, is the only known bidder for Spin) intends to do with current Wenner’s spokesman declined to comment on the search beyond saying, “We already editor in chief Sia Michel or publisher Jacob Hill. Pemberton declined comment Thursday, have a strong list of candidates.” — Jeff Bercovici and Hartle did not respond to a voice-mail message. — J.B. TOM FORD WILLIAM P. LAUDER SUSAN E. ARNOLD MARC MENESGUEN The Estée Lauder Companies Inc. The Procter & Gamble Company L’Oréal SA

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Sponsored by: 20 WWD, FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 24, 2006 WWD.COM Philip Johnson: People in Glass Houses By Rosemary Feitelberg During his recap of Johnson’s work at MoMA, Terence he touches upon one of the challenges of the working Riley, the Philip Johnson chief curator of architecture world. “It’s very diffi cult to work with people. As far as NEW YORK — The adage, “When your work speaks for and design, explained why Johnson moved on. When I’m concerned, it’s totally impossible.” itself, don’t interrupt” generally stands on its own. But asked how he could leave the institution that had given In the CBS program, John Manley, an associate of as unlikely as it seems, the late architect Philip Johnson his life such direction, the architect once said, “My fa- the architect since 1955, described how Johnson’s taste managed to speak for himself at an event held in his ther thought I was a momma’s boy, which I was. But I evolved over the years. On one project Johnson suggest- honor last week, thanks to the airing of a 1965 CBS pro- never got a paycheck from the museum, so I felt I had to ed, “Let’s use teak. It’s cheaper.” But by the time they gram about him. do something else.” were working on the New York State Theater, home to In a move that he no doubt would have been among the After leaving the museum, Johnson spent the New York City Opera and New York City Ballet, fi rst to chuckle at, Johnson’s televised analysis of his ca- eight years promoting fascism and even tried Johnson had kicked things up even higher. Manley reer managed to upstage the trio of architectural experts to team up with Louisiana governor Huey recalled. “He said, ‘Let’s use gold. It’s cheaper.’” who discussed his work at length Feb. 16 at the Museum of Long. The Cleveland-born Johnson sought Johnson weighed in on urban planning: “I Modern Art. The event, “Philip Johnson: Portraits,” was don’t believe in city planning. I believe in city a curtain-raiser for a Yale University symposium about design. Hire an architect and say, ‘Build this.’” Johnson, who died last year at the age of 98. His glass house in New Canaan, Conn. — a de- In 1965 when the then less-known architect taped sign that some say mirrored Mies van der Rohe’s “This Is Philip Johnson” for a now defunct CBS News Farnsworth House — triggered some of his livelier program that centered on a-day-in-the-life reporting, he comments on the CBS program and apparently with never could have imagined his insight would have such strangers, too. “If you built one for normal people,” said staying power. Now highly regarded as an architectural Johnson, pausing and then laughing at his choice of an visionary, Johnson seemed to have a fast grasp of the so- adjective, “you would need to give them the sense of en- cietal changes underfoot in the Sixties, and didn’t hold closure to protect them from the yapping of their chil- back about his disapproval of people being stricken with dren and their dog.” “telephonitis” or “microclimatology.” Explaining how he could live in such an exposed en- The man who once famously said, “Architecture is vironment was something Johnson had to deal with all the art of how to waste space,” became the fi rst director the time. “Nobody but nobody has come up and looked of MoMA’s architecture department in 1946, and later in the windows. In a glass house, anyone who walks up a trustee. He helped Americans get acquainted with to your house thinks you’re looking at them.” European modernism, Le Corbusier and Mies van der Despite their curiosity about the perils of getting Rohe. While many in last week’s audience knew he had dressed in a glass house or the potential for Peeping a hand in the MoMA’s original addition, the Seagram Toms, “I tell them I like it very much.” When a woman Building, the AT&T Building, the New York Pavilion at told him she could never live there, he offered, “Madame, the World’s Fair, the Glass House and Chapel on Thanks- Philip Johnson I never asked you to. The answer is often too easy.” Giving Square in Dallas, most were not as familiar with RICHARD SCHULMAN/CORBIS PHOTO BY And for all those relentless questions about what he his rapid-fi re speech, razor-sharp wit and sheer candor. public offi ce in his home state and later tried to start does indoors to deal with the strength of the afternoon sun, At one point during the CBS program, Johnson said, an American fascist party. By the mid-Forties — follow- Johnson said he simply walks outside to sit in the garden. “One never talks about mistakes. There are some archi- ing an FBI investigation — he stopped supporting Nazis But he did not want to be mistaken for an outdoorsy tects that do. But every time they do, I write them a let- and went to Harvard’s Graduate School of Design to kind of guy. “I hate sports. The only time I think about ter and say, ‘Don’t admit it.’” study under architect Marcel Breuer. While Johnson did sports is when I’m so delighted that I don’t have to do it.” Despite that policy, the bespectacled architect faced not delve into his political pursuits in “This Is Philip During his presentation, Riley noted that even late in his share of highs and lows. His father’s gift of Alcoa Johnson,” he did examine his profession. Early on in the life, Johnson was limber and charging forward. He re- stock made him fi nancially set and allowed him to fund program, he quipped, “I became an architect because I called walking crosstown on Lexington Avenue and “talk- his directorship at MoMA. But in 1932 after his success- wasn’t a very good critic.” ing about this, that and the other thing,” when Johnson, ful co-authorship of the museum’s exhibition catalogue Routinely asked by architectural students for di- 88 at the time, unexpectedly broke into a light jog. Riley “The International Style: Architecture Since 1922,” rection, Johnson said, “I always give them the advice asked about the urgency and the architect responded, Johnson left the museum. they can’t take. ‘Leave school.’” Later in the program “Well, if you walk, you’ll hit a red light on Park Avenue.” Paris’ In-Demand Interior Designer On The Drawing Board PARIS — When Noé Duchaufour-Law– black coffee at his Paris offi ce. “It’s micro EVERY DOG MUST rance set out to become a sculptor per architecture inside an architecture.” HAVE ITS DAY: William his art school training, he couldn’t have For the Senderens restaurant, Wegman’s name is guessed that he would instead become Duchaufour-Lawrance collaborated with practically synonymous one of France’s most sought-after inte- Baccarat, engraving its original 18th-centu- with weimaraner, his rior designers. ry drawings of chandeliers on to dacryl, a favorite breed of dog to “Sketch [the restaurant] triggered ev- synthetic material that possesses the same photograph. But next erything,” recalls Duchaufour-Lawrance, light refraction properties as crystal. month visitors to the 31, referring to Mourad Mazouz’s auda- As an encore, he plans to work with Brooklyn Museum will cious 27,000-square- Baccarat on a get a glimpse of his foot London space The hair salon at the crystal and silver extensive 40-year artistic he completed three Tad Milan store. jewelry line for career. “William Wegman: William Wegman’s years ago. Since men scheduled to Funney/Strange,” the fi rst “Ozzie and Harriet” then, Duchaufour- launch at the end of retrospective of his work painting with found Lawrance has 2006. The designer in more than 15 years, postcards. worked on several said his inspiration features more than 200 attention-grabbing comes from organ- works, including early black-and-white and altered photographs, paintings, drawings, projects, including ic elements, like collages, artists’ books, videos and fi lm, as well as his signature 20 x 24 Polaroids. the 9,000-square- air and water, and Organized by the Addison Gallery of American Art at Phillips Academy, the exhibition foot Milan Tad confessed he’s very opens March 8 and runs through May 28, before traveling to other cities. concept store that much influenced After establishing himself in the art scene with his photographs and short videos, bowed last month. by the 11 years he Wegman started exhibiting his drawings in the late Seventies. Drawing freed him from any The four-story lived in Brittany, technological hassles. He wrote, “What a relief…to gaze upon a blank sheet of paper and building features where “the archi- make a few lines with a pencil and not have to worry about lighting or electronic feedback.” a furniture store, tecture is awful, but A fan of illustrations and diagrams found in encyclopedias, handbooks and instruction restaurants and a the light and nature manuals, Wegman’s drawings sometimes borrow from that genre, but adding one of his

boutique selling the STEPHANE FEUGERE PHOTO BY are sublime.” photographs gives the fi nished piece another dimension. His paintings are also slightly likes of Azzaro, Issey Miyake and Sophia The designer often mixes Art Deco left-of-center. The artist has observed, “When I was a boy, my room had pirate wallpaper, Kokosalaki, as well as a hair salon and a and futuristic lines and materials for and the registration of the printing was off, so that the pirate’s face wasn’t in the pirate’s beauty bar. The designer selected neutral a look that is ultracontemporary. And head outline. I can still recall the hours I spent studying the problem of the pirates tones, mostly gray and pink. The projec- while he has the demeanor of a serious climbing the sky and not the ladder. My paintings are a lot like that — everything is tion of a tree on the elevator acts as a link student, he likes to play. “I like working familiar but not quite in the right place.” — R.F. between the various spaces, giving an or- on utopian projects. I’m very interested ganic note to the modern space. in going beyond what’s possible, beyond NO NECKTIES: There is no shortage of stiff collars on the Upper East Paris is also still buzzing about his organic matters,” he says in his rapid- Side, but the last thing artist Elizabeth Turk wants her upcoming dramatic makeover of the former Lucas fi re manner. Madison Avenue exhibition, “The Collars,” to be is stereotypical. Her Carton, which famous Paris chef Alain Soon, he’ll start working on a new res- fi rst solo show at the Hirschl & Adler Modern gallery bows March 9. Senderens had Duchaufour-Lawrance taurant atop the Printemps fl agship de- Carved from 400-pound blocks of Sivec and Carrara marble, her transform from a gastronomic, Art Deco partment store on Boulevard Haussman sculptures skew the historical defi nition of women’s work. Turk’s temple into a deluxe brasserie with a scheduled to open later this year. choices of materials and tools are more in line with the typically “Star Trek” vibe. “The space is very interesting,” he masculine world of war memorials and masonry. But her intricate lace- “I adapted to the existing envelope says. “And as long as I’m asked to go as like designs, which include patterns inspired by fl ower petals, eroded and I worked on the second skin,” the far as possible, it’s great.” fossils and arabesques, are a nod to the centuries-old tradition of An Elizabeth Turk interior designer explains, sipping on — Chantal Goupil making handmade lace — a fi eld largely dominated by women. — R.F. marble collar. COLLAR PHOTO COURTESY OF HIRSCHL ADLER MODERN COLLAR PHOTO COURTESY WWD, FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 24, 2006 21 WWD.COM Hockney Exhibit: 50 Years of Oil Portraits

By Katherine Bowers BOSTON — British contemporary artist David Hockney, who rose to interna- tional fame in his twenties, has returned to his roots in oil portraits. The Museum of Fine Arts, Boston, is staging the fi rst major retrospec- tive of Hockney’s portraiture — a show that examines a half-century of work from his prolifi c career, which includes photography, design and printmak- ing. Several of the pieces are fresh from his Los Angeles studio and never before exhibited. The show, “David Hockney Portraits,” opens on Sunday and runs through May 14. A W.H. Auden quote, “To me, art’s subject is the human clay,” opens the exhibit. An overwhelming jumble of faces — friends, family members, fellow artists, current and former lovers — peers down from every wall. Almost a dozen of his portrait subjects were with Hockney here for a pri- vate gallery talk and gala on Feb. 16 and 17. Among those attending were Los Angeles art world icon Sidney Felson, co-founder of print studio Gemini GEL, and his wife, Joni, and Hockney’s assistant and companion, Gregory Evans. Evans’ image in portrait evolves over 30 years from a fl uffy-haired youth in a frank, frontal nude, to the shy, slender man who wan- dered the gallery looking exactly as he appears in a 2005 oil — in a dark pinstriped suit with slightly downcast eyes. “It is a reunion of old friends,” Hockney, 68, said slowly, gazing around the room at his subjects, those in the room and on the walls. Hockney, wearing a red ascot and baggy tweed jacket, took questions in front of his masterpiece, “Mr. and Mrs. Clark and Percy.” The session led to reminiscences of his parents, Paul and Laura Hockney His mother “was less in- terested in pictures and thought every- thing I did was wonderful,” the artist said. Painting his father was a tedious process interrupted by the older man’s fi nicky sug- gestions about lighting and technique. That portrait, done when Hockney was 17, was his fi rst oil painting and his fi rst sale. Hockney said he can tell simply from the position of a crossed leg “if a couple connects or not.” David Hockney and his “Mr. and Mrs. Clark and Percy,” a 1970- oil portrait “Mr. and 1971 dual oil portrait, captures the grow- Mrs. Clark and Percy.” ing estrangement between the fashion designer Ossie Clark and his young wife. They would divorce soon after the paint from an early Eighties period when Hockney, depressed, drew himself dried, and Mrs. Clark — née Celia Birtwell each morning as soon as he awakened. — maintained her career in textile design “When I’m a bit down sometimes I think, ‘Well it’s time to have a and her status as one of Hockney’s favorite look at myself again,’ ” he said. subjects. She is one of two women — the In 50 years, Hockney has accepted only two commissions, one of other was his mother — Hockney has paint- which is in the show. It is a widely acknowledged masterwork of opera ed regularly. patron Sir David Webster. The dying man, shown in profi le, seems to The exhibition is an intensely personal levitate in a Marcel Breuer chair in front of a vase of red tulips. body of work. There is a nude of former These days, Hockney is back in his Los Angeles studio, painting lover Peter Schlesinger hoisting himself trees. His mother lived until age 99. On the subject of legacy, he said, out of a shimmering Los Angeles pool, and “Peter Getting Out of Nick’s Pool” “The work isn’t over until you fall over. The work is a long way from a series of ink-and-charcoal self-portraits being fi nished.” In This Extravaganza, Horses Are the Stars play with them like they would in a fi eld. It’s a very By Holly Haber Some stars of Cavalia. emotional, touching moment. For the horses, the DALLAS — Showman Normand Latourelle never stage is their playground because [Pignon] trains thought much about horses until he noticed one them that way. They are almost like dogs….The was stealing the show at Legendes Fantastiques, a other half is a mix of acrobatics, very high-thrill multimedia historical spectacle he created in 1998 moments, where we use the speed of the horses and in Quebec. do crazy upside down riding. We also have Roman Latourelle was startled. riding where riders are standing on two horses and “At the time, I had 120 performers, and night they are jumping bars at full speed.” after night, the audience was looking at the horse Latourelle hooked up with Pignon in Nimes, walking across the stage, not the performers,” he France, seven years ago while he was visiting horse recalled. “I said, ‘My God, this is a star.’” shows to learn about the animals. He recognized The director and producer knows something the trainer from a video and approached him. about mesmerizing an audience. He was a found- “I told him I had this crazy idea to do some- ing member of Cirque du Soleil, the Montreal en- thing very modern with horses,” Latourelle re- tertainment empire known for its creative extrav- called. “And he said, ‘You wouldn’t believe it but aganzas, which he left in 1990 when he decided we want to do something, too, and we’ve got the to stop touring and work on other large-scale pro- horses.’ The day after I was at their horse farm, ductions in Canada. and I was expecting to see a guy taking a horse Latourelle is on the road again as artistic direc- into a ring. He brought three stallions into a fi eld tor of Cavalia, an elaborate production that celebrates starts when you see the tent from outside,” Latourelle and started to run with them. When I saw that I almost the beauty of horses and their relationship to people. said. “The aesthetic of the show is probably one of the cried because it was so true. It was not a trick. It was a The show features 47 highly trained horses, most of them most researched in the world. I try to keep everything relationship. And I said, ‘OK, you got me.’” stunning Lusitano stallions and geldings, and an interna- very pure, as pure as the horses are. They don’t need cos- Cavalia is in its third year of touring to packed tional cast of acrobats, aerialists, dancers and riders. An tumes or makeup. Every horse is a piece of art by itself.” houses and extended runs. orchestra accompanies this human-equine ballet. The production, written by Latourelle, chronicles “It reminded me a lot of when we started Cirque, Cavalia, after playing cities such as Boston, Houston the evolution of the horse from mere servant to re- and we opened in Los Angeles in 1987 and it was an and Washington, is scheduled to end its U.S. tour in spected companion. Most of the four-legged perform- instant success,” Latourelle said. Dallas from March 14 to April 2, and then head home ers were raised on a breeding farm in France. There, Still, he has yet to swing a leg over a horse. “They’re to Canada to rest for the summer. Cavalia equestrian co-directors Frederic Pignon and my friends,” he said. “I like to scratch them and speak Almost everything about the performance is big. It his wife, Magali Delgado, base their training philoso- to them, but I don’t want to ride them…I’m so well sur- takes 78 trucks to move the cast, crew, horses and a phy on patience and respect — not force. rounded by horse people, some of the best riders in white, castle-like tent that rises to 110 feet at its peaks. “In half the show, the horses are completely free on the world, I feel if I go on a horse, it is like trying to do “The show is all about beauty, and the experience stage,” Latourelle said. “The artists come on stage and a trapeze act when I’m better on the ground.” HOCKNEY PHOTO BY MEGHAN JONES; PETER GETTING OUT OF NICK’S POOL COURTESY OF MUSEUM OF FINE ARTS, BOSTON OF MUSEUM FINE ARTS, MEGHAN JONES; PETER GETTING OUT OF NICK’S POOL COURTESY HOCKNEY PHOTO BY 22 WWD, FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 24, 2006 WWD.COM Calypso Finding Rhythm on Madison

By Sharon Edelson NEW YORK — Calypso Christiane Celle is the little concept that could. Who would have thought a business born on St. Barth’s, that barefoot Caribbean paradise where relaxation is a religion, could spawn such serious ambitions? The symbol that best represents those aspirations is the company’s new 10,000-square- foot, fi ve-fl oor fl agship at 815 Madison Avenue, near 68th Street. “Our stores are normally from 300 square feet to 2,500 square feet,” said Antoine Verglas, husband of Calypso founder Christiane Celle. “We want to increase our pres- ence now. We will try larger stores where we can.” While Calypso’s merchandise — breezy white tunics, caftans, easy cotton dresses, leather sandals and canvas totes — underscores its laid-back image, the company is aggressively trying to raise its profi le. “We want to position Calypso Christiane Celle as an international lifestyle brand,” Verglas said. With $70 million in sales projected for 2006, Calypso is expected to reach $100 mil- lion next year. To bring it to $500 million, “we’ll need stronger management and more capital. We experienced 70 percent growth this year and we anticipate growing 50 percent next year,” he said. Verglas said the company has been approached by investment banks, venture capi- talists and private companies. He declined to name them or elaborate. Calypso’s fl agship is located in a former Versace bou- tique. With its Baroque furnishings and moody colors, the Versace store’s design was the antithesis of Calypso’s sunny aesthetic. “It was very dark and a bit gloomy,” Verglas said. A double-height window, which was hidden behind Plexiglas, was opened up, the walls were covered in white paint and the lighting was upgraded. Now everything is clean and sleek, with white cash wraps and steel fi xtures. The space is accented with African furniture, such as a tribal bench ($3,600). From top: The view from the third-fl oor home area looking down on women’s wear; With 7,500 square feet of selling space, the fl agship is Calypso candles and fragrances, and two looks from the Christiane Celle collection. projected to do $7.5 million in sales in its fi rst year. “We home, furniture and fragrance. hope we can bring it to $10 million,” Verglas said. “Not The ground fl oor of the fl agship is devoted to gifts, jewelry and beau- one of our stores does less than $1,000 a square foot.” ty products from Rescue, Malin & Goetz to Calypso’s own fragrances and Verglas rattled off several stores that do more than bath and body collections. Jewelry is a mix of delicate gold necklaces $2,000 in sales per square foot, including units on Mott with colored gem stones by Thoi and chunky African-inspired necklaces Street and Hudson Street, here, and stores in Brentwood, from M&A Designs ($215). A bronze and snakeskin bowl is $350. Calif., and Bal Harbour, Fla. Vintage textiles, antiques, African sculptures, baskets and bedding An existing shop on Madison Avenue and 74th Street in sophisticated color combinations of ecru, beige, gold, silver and will continue operating, despite its proximity to the fl ag- brown might be found in the skylit home area on the third fl oor, which ship. It is the fi rst time all Celle’s concepts are under one looks like the corporate apartment of a stylish multinational executive, roof: accessories, gifts, women’s wear, children’s wear, decorated with African tribal benches and hair-calf throw pillows. Women’s wear, which occupies two fl oors, is a combination of Celle’s designs and the work of a variety of designers, many French or based in the Caribbean. About 65 percent is sourced from vendors Tdufi Duek, PHOTOS BY KEITH SMITH PHOTOS BY Donale, Nicky Dupont, Kulchi and Kristensen du Nord. The remaining 35 percent is made up of Celle’s two labels. The mix is moving toward an even split, with 50 percent Christiane Celle, the signature line, which features a cot- ton and lace dress for $180, and the Calypso label, comprised of wrap tops, tanks and crochet skirts. To fatten margins, Calypso plans to do more of its own manufacturing and further develop shoes and handbags. “We have a small wholesale business,” Verglas said. “It represents about 5 percent of our total volume. It’s a way for us to test certain mar- kets. We prefer retail.” Clearly. These days, the operative word is global in sourcing product and expanding the store network. Nine months ago, the company opened a store in Paris. A boutique will bow in Saint Tropez in April and Calypso is seeking locations in London and Asia, Verglas said. Closer to home, Calypso will unveil a new store in TriBeCa in May. A store on the corner of Lafayette and Broome Streets will be devoted to vintage voyage, while 407 Lafayette Street will house a new children’s concept. Calypso also plans to open a unit in Naples, Fla. Celle will come full circle when she opens a store in St. Barth’s. “It will be good for Christiane to go back to where she started,” Verglas said. “She’s true to her vision. She has a defi nite point of view and has proven herself.” Senate Committee Turns Up Heat on Bush Over Port Deal By Kristi Ellis have joined Democrats in calling for were not required of the company and it claimed the UAE has had an “uneven the purchase to be delayed in order to appears, similarly, that the mandatory re- history” in the war on terrorism, recog- WASHINGTON — At a last-minute hearing undergo more intensive scrutiny in light quirement for an additional 45-day review nizing the Taliban and allowing fi nan- here Thursday, Democrats on the Senate of national security concerns. with the entity involved…was ignored.” cial transactions for al-Qaeda. Armed Services Committee sharply chal- Sen. Hillary Rodham Clinton (D., The federal Committee on Foreign “Are you saying…not one agency in lenged the Bush administration’s review N.Y.) grilled administration offi cials on Investment in the United States, compris- this government believes this takeover and interpretation of the law involving a could affect national security in the Middle Eastern company’s takeover of op- United States?” he asked. erations at six major U.S. ports. A number of provisions were not required of Robert Kimmitt, deputy secretary at Sen. John Warner (R., Va.), chairman “ the Treasury Department, in response of the committee, called for the hearing the company and it appears, similarly, that the said national security concerns were during a Congressional break, while Bush raised throughout the review process administration offi cials continued their mandatory requirement for an additional 45-day and adequately addressed. efforts to dampen the mounting politi- “Concerns were raised and they were cal fi restorm over a deal that has United review with the entity involved…was ignored. resolved,” Kimmitt said. “If they had not Arab Emirates-owned Dubai Ports World ” been resolved, it could have affected na- purchasing U.K.-based Peninsular & — Sen. Hillary Rodham Clinton (D., N.Y.) tional security,” and triggered a 45-day Oriental Steamship Navigation Co. The review. British-based company operates port their interpretation of the law governing ing 12 agency members, conducted a 30- Levin warned the administration of- facilities in New York and New Jersey, the sale of U.S. assets and operations to day review of the acquisition and unani- fi cials “not to interpret away” the law. Philadelphia, Baltimore, Miami, New a foreign entity. mously agreed the deal could proceed. Clinton reiterated that legislation re- Orleans and Houston. “The process used in reviewing this Sen. Carl Levin, (D., Mich.), the se- quiring a 45-day review of the case will The deal has pitted President Bush transaction appears to be cursory at best,” nior Democrat on the committee, ex- be introduced when Congress returns against leaders in his own party, who said Clinton. “A number of provisions pressed disbelief over the process and next week. WWD, FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 24, 2006 23

PRODUCT/PRODUCTION ASSISTANT PATENTED UNISEX RAZOR BUMP PRODUCT Includes PR & Mktg by licensed MD. Large Apparel Company National Accounts Manager/Walsh & Jenkins US Large chain purchase order, E-Commerce Leading international manufacturer and distributor of High-Tech, Fashion has an opening in the site, Inventory. Call: (212) 875-7058 and Lifestyle timepieces is currently expanding their US operations. Women’s division to handle Could you sell to some of the world’s mostreveredbrands, such as Gucci, Max Mara, Burberry, Guess, Estee Lauder, Apple? We are recruiting dynamic individuals for the following positions the following resp: liaison As part of the Keenpac Group of companies,Walsh&Jenkins has at our Dallas based operations center: for NYO with overseas experiencedtremendousgrowth overthe past 12-18 monthsand there- office/store account for fore the time is now right for asuccessful, highly motivated National Sales Executive BRAND MERCHANDISING MANAGER prod. dev. Works with TD / Accounts Manager to join our team. Euro Classics, Inc. is a highly successful, 5 yearsexperience in Brand Management with extensive merchandising Account Manager on Asagroup, with subsidiary offices in the UK, France,Italy, Switzerland, rapidly growing, internationally based gift company located in Union, NJ. experience, specifically mid-range Fashion and technical Sports watches. fits/counters/washs. Resp and Australia, as well as wholly ownedmanufacturing facilities in We are looking for a dynamic, energetic Experience with suppliers in Far-East and Switzerland. Applicants must for tracking /follow up and Hong Kongand China,we havegrown to become one of the world’s Sales Executive who has a passion for leadingsuppliers of retail bags &packaging. With your professional, organ- both Cosmetic and Bath products. be creative leaders and have a verifiable track record in the industry. sending all submits to/ Please e-mail resume to: [email protected] from HK/NY. 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Must also be able to establish a 3 - 5 yearsexperience in sales and marketing of mid-high end luxury or strate the necessary driveand enthusiasmtoseek out new opportuni- Pls fax resume to: new customer base while expanding lifestyle brands,preferably watches, jewelry and / or leather goods. ties in all market sectors,particularly as extensive travel throughout the upon relations with existing customers. 212-760-1234 Develop relationships with potential Individualmusthavean entrepreneurial spirit, skilledindeveloping States will be required. clients in order to assess their needs and develop the best strategy for their launch plans and successfully driving a brand. In return, we offer excellent salary, commission, and bonus incentives as sales presentations. Transportation is Please e-mail resume to: [email protected] well as benefits that you would associate with the importance of this role. a must and your willingness to work TECH DESIGNER flexible hours a plus. Please E-mail a full & detailed resume to Gary Shippy, Director of Sales , at: For immediate consideration, please Akademiks [email protected] / Visit our group website: www.keenpac.com E-mail your resume (including a method ACCOUNT MANAGER / SALES REPRESENTATIVE in which to contact you) to: Minimum of 3-5 yearsexperience with better / luxury watchretailers 5 years exp. working as a full [email protected] required East coast based. Watch experience is a must. technical designer, pattern- Walmart Sales Associate Please e-mail resume to: [email protected] making exp a plus. Computer Upscale Boutique seeks out-going, skills (excel, word, email & motivated, hardworking individuals Sales Assistant with excellent sales capability for computer sketching is prefer- immediate Sales Associate positions. SALES / MARKETING COORDINATOR red) Ability to understand Opportunities for advancement are a Must have experience possibility. Background in fashion, 3-5 years experience. 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Need 3+ Prime Manhattan Jon 212-268-8043 [email protected] years wholesale experience working We look forward to receiving your resume, motivation letter and current with department, specialty stores and private label. Selling, and office man- For Space in Garment Center compensation package at the e-mail address beneath each position. Production Assistant Est’d evening dress mfr. seeks an ener- ager duties required. PC experience Helmsley-Spear, Inc. getic & organized Prod’n Asst. w/ min. Novelty Trim Sales needed, must be a self starter. Full 212-880-0414 2 yrs. exp. & computer skills (Excel). Midtown location. time only. Salary and commission ne- INDEPENDENT SALES REPS AND / OR AGENCIES Fax resume to: (212) 398-6694 Salary + Comm or Straight Comm. gotiable. Full benefits after 90 days Call Tom at 631-834-9809 employment. Midtown location. 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ADMIN * TECH * PRODUCTION seeks individual with 2 - 4 years expe- Please fax resumes to: & team oriented environment. Samples and productions of any styles. (212)557-5000 F: (212)986-8437 rience. Must have strong knowledge of 646 277 7483 Call Mr. Ping at (212) 980-3515 specs, fit evaluation, construction and E-mail to: [email protected] grading. Candidate must be detailed oriented and a team player who is able Design Assistant to work with customer tech depart- -ANNA SUI- ments as well as overseas offices. 2-3 years exp. Strong creative, concep- Knowledge of Excel, Illustrator, and tual, practical design skills. Tech Freeboarders a MUST. knowledge of garment construction a Please send resume & salary must. Illustrator, Photoshop. Fax requirements to : (212) 302-1856 or Retail Partner Wanted resume and sal. req. to: 212 768-2358 email: [email protected] Designer w/great boutique showcasing a Designer $75-100K. 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MEDIA RELATIONS Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. CREED, legendary maker of fragrance since 1760, seeks junior and mid-level media relations professionals for our Pier 22 Designs Manhattan office, reporting to our Full service CAD/Design Studio Director of Corporate Communications. 718.428.8828 [email protected] Email: [email protected]