CANADIAN PUBLICATION MAIL PRODUCT SALES AGREEMENT #40063470 sales table-wine Canadian lead in taken the vintages have Golden State DREAMING CALIFORNIA cutlery choices to dinnerwareand fit allwhenitcomes One sizedoesn’t ingredients differently chefs tolookatCanadian movement isinspiring The local-food THE DOTS CONNECTING IT OUT DISHING

NEW RESTAURANT, THEBERLIN JONATHAN GUSHUE RETURNS foodserviceandhospitality.com $4 TO THESCENEWITH HIS | APRIL 2016

VOLUME 49, NUMBER 2 APRIL 2016 CONTENTS 40

27

14 Features

11 FACE TIME Whether it’s eco-proteins 14 CONNECTING THE DOTS The 35 CALIFORNIA DREAMING Golden or smart technology, the NRA Show local-food movement is inspiring State vintages have taken the lead aims to connect operators on a chefs to look at Canadian in Canadian table-wine sales host of industry issues ingredients differently By Danielle Schalk By Jackie Sloat-Spencer By Andrew Coppolino 37 DISHING IT OUT One size doesn’t fit 22 BACK IN THE GAME After vanish - all when it comes to dinnerware and ing from the restaurant scene in cutlery choices By Denise Deveau 2012, Jonathan Gushue is back

CUE] in the spotlight with his new c restaurant, The Berlin DEPARTMENTS By Andrew Coppolino

27 THE SUSTAINABILITY PARADIGM 2 FROM THE EDITOR While the day-to-day business of 5 FYI running a sustainable food operation 12 FROM THE DESK is challenging, it is becoming the new OF ROBERT CARTER normal By Cinda Chavich 40 CHEF’S CORNER: Neil McCue, Whitehall, Calgary

PHOTOS: CINDY LA [TASTE OF ACADIA], COLIN WAY [NEIL M OF ACADIA], COLIN WAY PHOTOS: CINDY LA [TASTE

FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY APRIL 2016 1 FROM THE EDITOR

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POWER SHIFT or several years now, consum- “The baby boomers are dying.” ers have been driving a multi- Certainly the tongue-and-cheek tude of changes at the restaurant comment sparked some guffaws from Flevel. They’re demanding better qual- the crowd and may be somewhat ity foods, they’re experimenting with extreme as a large portion of the boom- reduced meat intake and they’re fuelling ers are not only alive and well, but greater snack consumption (currently at have significant clout and money (more its highest level, according to stats from often than not, they are also paying for the NPD Group). At the QSR level, con- the expensive tastes of their millennial sumer demand has grown the breakfast children) but the point Carter was mak- daypart, making it the largest segment. ing is clear — there is a marked power Additionally, the appeal of local foods shift in today’s marketplace. has never been as strong, as consumers For the first time in years, the baby continue to enjoy a love affair with foods boomers have been upended by the mil- from their own backyard (see story on lennial cohort, which is now the biggest p. 14 and The Produce & Protein Guide). demographic group. Not only do they Whether this passion is based on price boast newfound power but their value point, an interest in reducing the carbon system is infinitely different from previ- footprint of transporting foods from ous generations — a fact impacting how farther distances, or both, the reality is they earn and spend their money, where today’s operators and consumers may be they spend it, and from a foodservice The reality is globally influenced, but they’re locally perspective, how, what and where they “ today’s operators inspired. Underlining these changes is eat. Equally as important, millennials and consumers the strong need for convenience, value are comfortable and adept with technol- and transparency. ogy, using it to customize and facilitate may be globally Are today’s consumers more fickle? their lives in ways we could never have influenced, but Perhaps; but they are also better edu- imagined. Not surprisingly, restaurant they’re locally cated, infinitely more demanding and chains and independents alike are being increasingly ethical in their mindsets. forced to invest more heavily in technol- inspired That means today’s operators need to ogy in order to appeal to this burgeoning be open to whatever change consumers demographic. But, as we’ve learned only ” are spurring or risk losing their cus- too well — don’t get too comfortable. tomer base. Before you know it, the technology will That was the underlying theme change and a new cohort will be nipping at this year’s Canadian Restaurant at our heels. Operators Summit (CROS), held last month at the Hilton Hotel in downtown Toronto. Central to almost every discus- sion that took place through the day was the importance of the millennial cohort and its influence in shaping today’s changes (see story on p. 12). After decades of driving change, and leaving a lasting impact on the marketplace, the baby- boomer influence is now in decline. In Rosanna Caira fact, quipped Robert Carter, executive Editor/Publisher director of Toronto-based NPD Group, [email protected]

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Conagara Full Page.indd 1 2016-03-15 2:27 PM MONTHLY NEWS AND UPDATES FOR THE FOODSERVICE INDUSTRY FYI DELIVERING RESULTS Restaurant Brands International records positive results for 2015

ROLL OUT New product launches play a significant role in Restaurant Brands International’s plans for future sales growth at both Tim Hortons and Burger King. Within the Tim Hortons brand, the focus has been on expanding the chain’s presence in differ- ent dayparts while defending its leader- ship in the coffee segment. BY DANIELLE SCHALK Meanwhile, at Burger King, the strat- ebruary saw QSR giant Restaurant King. RBI also posted positive system-wide egy has been to launch “fewer and more Brands International (RBI) release its sales figures, with growth of 9.3 per cent at impactful products,” says Daniel Schwartz, first full-year results since its forma- Tim Hortons and 10.3 per cent at Burger CEO. “[This year] is already off to a great Ftion in late 2014. King. Schwartz highlighted new product start,” he adds. The home of the Whopper The company’s year-end investor con- launches as a key factor driving these posi- launched flame-grilled hot dogs as a per- ference call was upbeat, with CEO Daniel tive results, including items such as the manent menu item in its U.S. restaurants in Schwartz indicating a strong desire to drive Nutella pockets, steak panini and buffalo late February — one of the chain’s biggest continued growth and expansion for RBI’s chicken fries. launches in recent history. brands. “In our first year as RBI, we set the RBI successfully delivered on aggressive foundation for long-term growth at Tim international expansion promises at Tim year restaurant base growth of 4.4 per cent Hortons while building on the momentum Hortons with 55 new restaurants — more with the addition of 631 units. “We couldn’t at Burger King,” he says. “We continue to than doubling its international presence to have asked for a better first year for RBI and be focused on driving top-line growth and 113 units. Overall, the brand experienced both of the brands under the RBI owner- finding the right partners to bring great res- net restaurant growth of 155 units (com- ship,” says Schwartz. “We continue to be taurants to our guests all around the world.” pared to 144 in 2014) for the year, driven by excited about future opportunities at Tim In 2015, the company reported a global Canadian and international segments. Hortons and Burger King and are com- comparable sales growth of 5.6 per cent at Burger King also continued its trend of mitted to building long-term sustainable Tim Hortons and 5.4 per cent at Burger strong growth in 2015, achieving year-over- growth for years to come.”

GOING STATE-SIDE A key item on Restaurant Brands International’s agenda for 2016 is U.S. expansion of the Tim Hortons brand. During 2015, the company closed underperforming restaurants in New York and Maine. These closures were reflected in the U.S. market’s new restaurant growth of only one unit for the year. Despite last year’s uninspiring results, Josh Kobza, CFO, is optimistic about future growth. “Over the last few months, we’ve gotten a lot of traction with [Tim Hortons] in the U.S.,” he says. “We’ve started to make progress on the develop- ment side, signing up new area development agreements in Columbus, Cincinnati and Indianapolis.”

FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY APRIL 2016 5 FYI

SECOND HELPING COMING EVENTS OF GOLD APRIL 8-10: Toronto Food & Drink Market, Enercare Centre, Toronto. Marc Lepine made history Website: tofoodanddrinkmarket.com at this year’s Canadian APRIL 12: 2016 Localfare The Trade Show, RBC Convention Centre, Culinary Championship, Winnipeg. Tel: 877-296-2909; website: mrfa.mb.ca claiming top honours for a second time. The APRIL 12-14: Canadian Produce Marketing Association owner of Ottawa’s Atelier Convention and Trade Show, BMO Centre, Calgary. Website: convention.cpma.ca restaurant beat out 10 other chefs from across APRIL 13-15: SIAL Canada: The North American Food Innovation the country at the two- Exhibition, Montreal Convention Centre, Montreal. Tel: 866-281-7425; website: sialcanada.com day competition held in

February in Kelowna, APRIL 24-25: ApEx 2016, Cunard Centre, Halifax. Tel: 866-216-0860, B.C. Lepine first won the ext. 227; email: [email protected]; website: apextradeshow.ca decade-old competition Rendez-vous Canada 2016, Palais des Congrès de Wo ot APRIL 24-27: Since 1886, Del Monte has in 2012. Rounding out Montreal, Montreal. Tel: 613-238-3885; email: [email protected]; A century of awesome. the competition’s top website: rendezvouscanada.travel been dedicated to bringing the best fruits and veggies three were Matthew Batey (silver) of The Nash Restaurant & Off Cut Bar in Calgary and Alex Chen (bronze) of Vancouver’s Boulevard APRIL 24-30: Winnipeg Wine Festival, TBA, Winnipeg. from around the world to your door. As the leading pineapple Website: winnipegwinefestival.com Kitchen & Oyster Bar. The winning dish featured smoked steelhead and banana supplier, as well as a top tomato marketer, go-to trout with miso-molasses glaze, cured pork belly, barley-and-corn APRIL 25: 10th Annual Terroir Symposium, Art Gallery of porridge and corn cob broth, paired with a single-vineyard char- Ontario, Toronto. Email: [email protected]; 100 fresh cut producer and so much more, there’s no limit donnay from Le Clos Jordanne in Niagara, Ont. website: terroirsymposium.com to how partnering with us can help you grow your future. APRIL 29-MAY 1: Eat Vancouver, BC Place, Vancouver. Website: eat-vancouver.com

MORE EVENTS AT http://bit.ly/FHevents IN MEMORIAM The Nature of the Best Toronto chef Niels Kjeldsen passed away in February at the age of 71, following a short battle with cancer. Kjeldsen had a 50-year career in Canada and abroad as a chef at many leading Built for speed. 108,000-sq.-ft. facility offers hotels, including The Four Seasons Hotel Toronto’s former Truffles just-in-time delivery to Quebec and Ontario restaurant. In 1984, he was a member of the first Culinary Team Canada to win Gold at the World Culinary Olympics in Frankfurt, Mega fresh. 21,000 sq. ft. of fresh Germany. Kjeldsen most recently served as director of Culinary at Prime Restaurants Inc…After a long and valiant battle with cut production capacity cancer, , a veteran of the Toronto culinary Dominic Zoffranieri Ripe for success. scene, passed away in late February. Zoffranieri began his career with Hyatt Hotels in the late ’70s, and then moved to Delta 15 pressurized rooms for Hotels where he remained for many years. A long-time member banana and avocado of Toronto’s Escoffier Society, Zoffranieri was a talented and pas- sionate chef who cared deeply about the industry. Zoffranieri was ripening programs also a regular columnist at Foodservice and Hospitality magazine …Neal Noble passed away Feb. 28 due to complications from an infection and liver failure. Born in Fort Frances, Ont., Noble became an influential force in the culinary community, perfect- ing his craft at various hotels including the Sutton Place and the Metropolitan Hotel Toronto where he quickly progressed to corporate executive chef. During his long career, the graduate of Malaspina College in B.C. received two invitations to the pres- tigious James Beard House and won six gold medals in various culinary competitions. Noble leaves behind his wife Gwen and son Kyle, who continues his father’s legacy by running the catering company Noble founded, Noble Culinary. freshdelmonte.com | 1-800-950-3683 | fruits.com /DelMonteFreshProduce @DelMonteFresh /DelMonteFresh

6 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY APRIL 2016 FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM © 2016 Del Monte Fresh Produce N.A., Inc. Wo ot A century of awesome. Since 1886, Del Monte has been dedicated to bringing the best fruits and veggies from around the world to your door. As the leading pineapple 100 and banana supplier, as well as a top tomato marketer, go-to fresh cut producer and so much more, there’s no limit to how partnering with us can help you grow your future.

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TOP TRENDS Craft beer/microbrews is the number-1 hot trend in Canadian restaurants again this year, accord- ing to Restaurants Canada’s 2016 Canadian Chef Survey. Close to 500 professional chefs across the country identified the menu items and cook- ing methods at the peak of popularity, as well as up-and-coming culinary trends. Rounding out the top 10 trends are: charcuterie/ house-cured meats; ethnic sauces; locally sourced foods; food smoking; house-made condiments/sauces; gluten-free/food allergy-conscious; inexpensive/under-used cuts of meat; organic produce; and leafy greens. RESTO BUZZ

Toronto chef Cory Vitiello has opened a second Flock Rotisserie + Greens location in the space that once housed his restaurant THR&Co. The new site offers an expanded version of the original location’s menu, as well as beverage offerings including espresso, beer, wine and cocktails. New menu items include a five-piece fried chicken platter served with a cheddar biscuit, slaw and hot sauce ($17); cast iron-baked mac and cheese ($7) and spiced squash and lentil soup ($6)…Scott Bagshaw has opened his third Winnipeg restaurant. Máquè seats 38 and offers a menu of Asian-inspired cuisine including crisp sweetbreads with ginger dressing, black garlic, turnip pickle, orange and hazelnut ($19); duck confit with egg noodles, fermented bean and chili sauce, Chinese sausage and mustard greens ($19); and squid ink noodles served with minced prawns, spicy peanut sauce, cucumber, toasted peanuts and mint ($18)…MasterChef Canada winner David Jorge has joined forces with Joseph Richard Group for its new- est endeavour, S+L Kitchen & Bar in Langley, B.C. The steak-and-seafood restau- rant is a change from the S+L Kitchen & Bar group’s traditional pub fare, offering items such as fried cauliflower ($9); ribeye Wagyu steak, butchered in-house ($41 for 8 oz.); a porchetta sandwich with slow-roasted pork belly, chimichurri and arugula served on focaccia ($16); and fried chicken served with bourbon bacon, corn and mashed potatoes ($19)…The University of British Columbia’s upscale eatery, Perch, has closed its doors. The restaurant’s team decided to call it quits only six months after launch because the traffic required to fund the restaurant did not materialize.

Opening a new restaurant? Let us in on the buzz. Send a high-res image, menu and background information about the new establishment to [email protected].

FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM FYI

IN BRIEF the Year) and Zoe Yanovsky and Award for his work in advancing SUPPLYSIDE Druxy’s Famous Deli has chef Ian Arthur of Kingston, employment opportunities for Egg Farmers of Canada will acquired Williams Fresh Cafe, Ont.’s Chez Piggy restaurant people with disabilities. Wafer implement a transition from resulting in a combined entity (Independent Restaurateur)… owns six Tim Hortons restau- conventional egg produc- of 70 delis, cafes and kiosks Cineplex Entertainment has rants in Toronto and has hired tion toward methods that take across Ontario. The two chains announced plans to build The 127 people with disabilities into account hen welfare, food will continue to operate as sepa- Rec Room in Toronto in early over the past 20 years…Justin production sustainability and rate brands, however Druxy’s 2017. The new Rec Room will Witcher has taken the helm as more. This includes a com- plans to explore opportuni- be located across from the CN the new executive chef at the mitment to cease the installa- ties that capitalize on menu Tower and is the third unit in Clayoquot Wilderness Resort on tion of any new conventional strengths...Starbucks opened the works, the first of which is Vancouver Island, where he will housing…Iowa-based ACP Inc. its first express store in Canada slated to open in Edmonton this help launch the resort’s new res- has appointed Mississauga, in February at Toronto’s Union spring…McDonald’s claimed the taurant, The Bedwell Bistro, in Ont.-based Chesher Equipment Station. The 400-sq.-ft. store is top spot on Franchise Direct’s May. Witcher previously served Ltd. as its Canadian product the third of its kind in the world 2016 Top 100 Global Franchises as chef de cuisine at Atlantic distributor. Chesher’s sales team — two New York locations Ranking. Fellow restaurant fran- Group of Companies…Toronto will work to aggressively expand opened early last year…Winners chises rounded out the list’s top mixologist, Evelyn Chick won the Amana Commercial brand… have been announced for the five positions includingSubway , the global 2015 Beefeater California-based Ventura Foods 26th annual Ontario Hostelry KFC, Burger King and Pizza Hut. MIXLDN Cocktail Competition has acquired the sauces and Gold Awards being held later held in London, England in condiments business of Toronto- this month at the Four Seasons PEOPLE January. Chick triumphed over based Wing’s Foods. The newly Hotel Toronto. Winners include Tim Hortons franchisee Mark 31 international finalists with acquired business will become Toronto-based Bar Raval’s Wafer has won the inaugural her “Endless English Summers” Ventura Foods Canada, operating Grant van Gameren (Chef of Restaurants Canada Leadership cocktail. as a wholly owned subsidiary.

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SHOW PREVIEW

FACE

WhetherTIME it’s eco-proteins or smart technology, the NRA Show aims to connect operators on a host of industry issues BY JACKIE SLOAT-SPENCER

ith the foodservice landscape quick- ness,” explains Leana Salamah, senior director, about what it takes to pull an operation back ly evolving, the National Restaurant Convention Marketing, Communications & from the brink of failure. Association (NRA) team has pre- Programming at NRA. In the World Culinary Showcase, attend- Wpared another education-packed, star-studded On May 23, leaders will dive deep into the ees will be treated to live culinary demos by NRA Show to shine the spotlight on the issues challenges of offering foodservice in retail chefs such as Lorena Garcia, Ming Tsai and that matter most to restaurant operators. spaces with the brand-new Foodservice at Rick Bayless. Plus, a new made-in-Italy food The annual tradeshow will be held May Retail Conference — an immersive event and wine expo called Bellavita will dominate 21 to 24 at the McCormick Place in Chicago. aimed at addressing recruiting, marketing and 15,000-sq.-ft. of the showroom floor and be “The theme this year is called ‘This is My health-and-wellness trends in the growing home to producers, top chefs and sommeliers Show.’ The idea behind the campaign is segment. In response to a shift in consumer from Italy. that even though people come from dif- preferences toward health-conscious and sus- Meanwhile, a special pavilion dedicated to ferent industry segments, the NRA show is tainable foods, the show features seminars on Kitchen Innovation Award-winners will high- where they can gather as a community and “eco-protein” trends such as hormone- and light equipment that delivers cutting-edge learn from different segments of the busi- antibiotic-free chicken and grass-fed beef. food safety, water savings, smart technology “There is also renewed interest and lower labour costs. This year’s winners around food safety and sanita- include Manitowoc Foodservice’s Multiplex tion this year,” Salamah adds. N2Fusion Beverage System — a nitrogenized Show organizers are offering coffee system; Rational’s KitchenManagement start-up companies a reduced System, which lets operators manage and con- rate to entice them to exhibit trol up to 30 Rational combi ovens from a cen- in the Startup Alley pavilion. tral computer; and The Vollrath Company’s Introduced in 2015, Startup Stoelting AutoVend System, which dispenses Alley showcases innovative new up to two flavours and four toppings of frozen companies. “We have also made soft-serve in multiple sizes. a significant investment in the Instead of a key-note presentation, the beverage-alcohol space,” adds show will host a panel discussion between Salamah. The NRA team has its CEO Dawn Sweeney and three restaurant READY, SET, SHOW The Foodamental tapped Jon Taffer of TV show Bar Rescue and innovators on May 22. “It’s going to be more Studio (top) is home to education founder of Taffer Dynamics to emcee its Star dynamic than a traditional panel session,” sessions, product demonstrations and hands-on learning; the NRA Show of the Bar Competition, offer advice to bar says Salamah. “We want to turn that on its attracts 42,000 buyers each year and restaurant operators on the showroom head and change it into a dialogue between floor and lead a crowd-sourced education ses- folks in the industry who are embracing and sion with English celebrity chef Robert Irvine causing change.” l

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en Y, Gen Me, Gen Next — what- experienced continued growth. The fast- ever you call them, there is no hot- casual segment has honed in on healthy, ter term in the foodservice industry customizable options coupled with a clean, Gtoday than “millennial.” Over the last five modern, upscale atmosphere. As a result, years, the “M” word, which generally refers to we’ve seen some of the top QSR chains those born between 1982 and 1995, has taken begin to take notice by integrating some of the industry by storm. these fast-casual offerings into marketing And the millennial population is forecast THE and product efforts. to be the largest demographic in Canada by 2021. Furthermore, data from the NPD TECHNOLOGY Group suggests this segment of the popula- “M” Millennials are much more engaged with Time. Money. Energy. tion currently accounts for 28 per cent of technology than any other demographic. As a foodservice traffic in Canada, making it par- OperatorsWORD would be wise result, this group tends to over-index when it ticularly relevant to foodservice operators. to cater to this growing and comes to utilizing and supporting the idea of Not only do millennials account for a large influential demographic technology at foodservice. A recent survey by Save more of each percentage of overall traffic in Canada, they the NPD Group found that consumers aged also have a number of unique preferences 18 to 24 were 91 per cent in favour of self- when it comes to eating out. For example, foodservice. Off-premise eating is extremely ordering kiosks at QSR outlets. That number they make up nearly 50 per cent of digi- popular with this demographic, accounting was slightly lower (80 per cent) for those tal traffic at foodservice outlets and highly for 65 per cent of millennials’ restaurant aged 25 to 34. Furthermore, millennials are Heating and cooling for less than you think over-index when it comes to healthy options visits compared to 54 per cent for non- twice as likely to post something online when — often seeking out offerings naturally millennials. Furthermore, millennials also it comes to their foodservice visit. Whether SAVE MONEY BY RENTING positioned or with “good-for-you” claims. over-index for eating in the car or at work. As it’s Facebook, Instagram, Twitter or Pinterest, 1 According to the NPD Group, healthy choices a result, visits often include take-out, delivery millennials like sharing their experiences and Zero upfront costs are extremely important for millennials, with or a drive-thru lane. are also highly likely to be influenced by oth- Zero payments for the first 3 months* 25 per cent of the demographic looking for ers who do the same. Zero parts and labour charge for maintenance and repairs1 healthier menu options. But what else does QUALITY AND FOOD EXPERIENCE There is no denying millennials are a this cohort want? Convenience aside, millennials are also unique demographic and have different sticklers for quality and experience. These foodservice behaviours and expectations CONVENIENCE consumers demand fresher, higher-qual- than previous generations. However, smart It should come as no surprise that millen- ity ingredients and often prefer ethically operators who are willing to re-evaluate go- nials consider convenience to be one of the sourced ingredients and corporate transpar- to-market strategies to cater to this growing Hurry, limited time offer. Call 1-855-321-1509 most important attributes when it comes to ency. As a result, the fast-casual segment has cohort can reap significant rewards.l or visit us at Enercare.ca/commercial today! Robert Carter is executive director, Foodservice Canada, with the NPD Group Inc. He can be reached at [email protected] for questions regarding the latest trends *Offer ends July 31, 2016. Cannot be combined with any other offer and is only available to new customers who enter into a new rental equipment agreement with Enercare Home and and their impact on the foodservice business. Commercial Services Limited Partnership (“Enercare”). Enercare reserves the right to change or cancel this offer at any time without prior notice. Certain terms and conditions apply. Customers will receive a credit equal to 3 months rent in the month the heating and/or cooling unit is installed. 1Some limitations apply. See rental agreement terms and conditions for details. ™Enercare, the design and “It’s Better Inside” are trademarks of Enercare Inc., used under license. 12 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY APRIL 2016 FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM

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HOMETOWN PROUD Spring salmon from the Skeena River is the star of this dish from Fable in Vancouver, which is served with North Arm Farm beets, fennel and herbs from a B.C. greenhouse PHOTO: FABLE RESTAURANT [SPRING SALMON] RESTAURANT PHOTO: FABLE

14 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY APRIL 2016 FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM FOOD FILE

THE LOCAL-FOOD MOVEMENT IS INSPIRING CHEFS TO LOOK AT CANADIAN INGREDIENTS DIFFERENTLY

STORY BY ANDREW COPPOLINO

anada’s bounty is an embarrassment of riches — from the “three sisters” of corn, beans and squash, which are the foun- dation of First Nations agriculture, and Prince Edward Island blueberries, to bison from the Great Plains and Red Fife wheat. But despite the prevalence of ingredients grown coast-to-coast, culinary activist Anita Stewart wrote in her book Canada: The Food, The Recipes, The Stories, Canadians face the “collective challenge” of building connections between producers and consumers, between urban and rural. PHOTO: FABLE RESTAURANT [SPRING SALMON] RESTAURANT PHOTO: FABLE

FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY APRIL 2016 15

FOOD FILE

pening all over North America.” He adds, “The local-food agenda is

LOCAL LEGENDS The working against a very finely tuned global food-distribution system, menu at Calgary’s River and one that has been honed and entrenched since the world restruc- Café highlights local ingredients such as tured and reorganized itself in the years after the Second World War.” bison from Olds, Alta.- But these days, ‘local’ is the buzzword in many restaurants. based Kolb Farms “Restaurants boast about being local,” says Trevor Bird, chef-owner of Fable Kitchen in Vancouver. “It’s very nature-based, but it’s not a trend. It’s a way that people want to eat. They feel better about themselves.” Bird’s menu walks the talk. Fable Kitchen’s wild salmon dish with beets, a fennel confit, potatoes and dill yogurt ($24) uses fish caught weekly from runs in a number of B.C. rivers, which means selections can vary — from spring salmon, to coho, to ivory. “The beets are cel- lared from local farms, usually Klippers Organics in Cawston or North Arm Farm in Pemberton, while the dill is grown in a greenhouse by Windset Farms in Delta, B.C.,” he says. For the tuna Niçoise salad ($22), he uses Pacific albacore tuna caught off the coast and pork cheek for the guanciale from Gelderman Farms of Abbotsford. To continue the momentum of the local-food movement, it takes more than just an appreciation of the ingredient. Kristin Peters Snider, And whether chefs are following the 100-km diet or choosing director of Operations at Calgary’s River Café says “You need a very to source ingredients within their own city, province or Canada as creative chef who can take a humble ingredient (like a local turnip a whole, it’s clear the local-food movement is constantly changing. or carrot) and turn it into something delicious and menu-worthy.” Jamie Kennedy, owner of Toronto-based Jamie Kennedy Kitchens, River Café, recognized as a pioneer in the local-food movement when describes it as “a feeling, a consciousness, a crystallization that’s hap- it opened in 1991, was, along with Toronto’s Canoe restaurant, one

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TASTE OF HISTORY Canoe’s Taste of Acadia menu drew inspiration from the region’s native ingredients Seating with Style...

Throughout the year, Toronto’s be telling them more of the story Canoe restaurant will be offering on the actual menu, talking more a series of tasting menus to pay about what we’re doing and where a culinary tribute to unique times, the food comes from.” places and people that helped In mid-March, Taste Acadia shape Canada. “Canadian food is was replaced with Taste Haida never really defined but when you Gwaii. The region, formerly known dig, there’s a lot of great things as the Queen Charlotte Islands is that have happened in history that an archipelago on the north coast are tied to food,” says John Horne, of B.C. “There is such deep history executive chef. on that island that most Canadians The Taste Canada series don’t know about,” says Horne. launched in February with a Taste The menu ($100 per person) is Acadia menu inspired by the ingre- chock full of fish, shellfish, kelp and dients, flavours and cooking tech- sea asparagus. “They’re already niques used by the French settlers. harvesting seaweed and getting Horne and chef de cuisine Coulson ready for the herring and salmon Armstrong were inspired to dev- runs,” he says. Some food will be elop a menu that transformed clas- prepared in traditional bentwood sic Acadian dishes, such as fricot boxes, which are made by steam- Showroom & Stocked in Oakville (an Acadian stew), using local ing cedar planks and bending ingredients from the land and sea. them into cooking boxes. There Inspiration for the dishes was also are also wine and beer pairings drawn from historical cooking tech- based on regional specialties, niques such as cooking on char- such as berries. coal, preserving vegetables and The next stop on Taste Canada rehydrating ingredients. “Guests will be Manitoba, where the culi- love it when there’s a connection nary scene is heavily influenced to Canadian food and its history,” by a large Polish and Croatian says Horne. “This time around we’ll population. — Amy Bostock

of a few restaurants focused on Canadian regional, seasonal cuisine, according to Snider. The menu reflects the local terroir with items such as Olds, Alta.-based Kolb Farms’ bison hump rubaboo (a type of stew) with yellow-foot chanterelles, Saskatoon berries, foraged ramp, fried sage, Hakurei turnips and Poplar Bluff potato; and the Fish & Game Board featuring bison pemmican, smoked Steelhead trout, game terrine, wild boar prosciutto, house-cured salami and Albacore tuna rillette ($32). But, according to Snider, chefs are combating rising food costs by

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LOCAL CHAMPION Chef Anne Desjardins, GUELPH GOES GREEN consultant and instruc- he team at The University of Guelph in Ontario has long tor at Ecole Hotelière des been a proponent of “cooking local” and strives to offer Laurentides in Ste-Adele, T fresh, locally grown ingredients at its campus dining spots. Que., began championing As part of the university’s “food revolution,” the 100 Mile Grille, the use of local produce in located on-campus in Creelman Hall, uses handmade 100-per- restaurants in the ’80s. At cent local ground chuck and sourdough from a local bakery for the time, she says some of its burgers; locally grown lettuce for its salads; and local russet her peers thought she was potatoes and cheese curds for its poutine offerings. All of the crazy. Since then, the local University of Guelph’s foodservice operations purchase produce food trend has grown sig- from the nearby Elmira Produce Auction Cooperative Inc. (EPAC) nificantly. “I would say that customers are more and more concerned about — a locally owned fruit and vegetable wholesaler established [buying local foods] and have a greater understanding of the concept of eat- in 2004 — which supports 75 farmers, including Don’s Produce, ing local,” says Desjardins. Sergeant Farms, Organic Meadow and Field Gate Organics. “Chefs also want to have things that are local and sustainable on their However, the university’s commitment to sustainability menus, but they have to [be realistic],” says Desjardins, noting that chefs goes far beyond local food sourcing. In 2011, it launched “I am Reusable” — a program that provides reusable take-out contain- don’t have to go as far as foraging in order to serve locally sourced dishes. ers at foodservice outlets on campus. When customers return the Canada’s local food trend still carries an air of elitism that Desjardins reusable container, they receive an “I am Reusable” card good for hopes to see dissipate as the trend continues to grow. Plus, the cost and time another take-out container next time they visit. More than 9,000 commitment required to source local products are keeping some operators containers have gone through the system to date, reducing waste from joining in. By Desjardins’ estimate, only a small percentage of restau- within the university and diverting paper and disposables from rants are serving 100-per-cent locally sourced products, but she has high landfill. Diners also have the option of bringing their own dishes hopes for the future. “I think that ‘local’ is something that is in evolution. In and are rewarded with a stamp on an Enviro Card (collecting 10 hospitality schools and culinary schools, the new cohort of chefs really think stamps gets you a free entrée) or a 50-cent discount on their about [local food],” Desjardins says. “When you make people dream of it, purchase. — Graeme Garland maybe one day they will achieve it.” — Danielle Schalk

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moving away from primal cuts of meat, into secondary, less expensive cuts — such as pork and lamb belly, flat-iron beef and bison striploin — that require more imagination and culinary finesse. “In the case of our current menu, we’re serving a pork rib chop instead of, for example, pork loin; bison hump instead of bison tenderloin.” River trout — which River Café serves with Great Northern white beans, smoked mussel vinaigrette, trout crackling and Sudo Farms butternut squash ($40) — bullberries, pulses and other raw ingre- dients that are grown in the west, she adds, can also generate a good return on investment.

NATIONWIDE BRAND RECOGNITION EXPERIENCE AND NATURE’S BOUNTY River Café in in Calgary serves up local, seasonal SUPPORT FROM DAY 1 favourites such as asparagus and fiddlehed soup left( ) and pickerel with summer vegetables COMPREHENSIVE TRAINING When it comes to making purchasing decisions, Kennedy recog- nizes a disparity between how independent owner-operators — what UNIQUE MARKET NICHE he calls “fiefdoms” of 10 to 12 employees — and the larger institu- tions can adapt locally sourced foods to their menus. “That fiefdom can make those [local food] decisions. It’s much harder to do through the greater public sector, institutions and colleges.” But, the question of whether or not local food can make money for a restaurant is not really the issue, Kennedy readily admits. “Quite honestly, at the end of the day, it’s not going to make too much difference to the bottom-line whether you source locally or whether you have a mixed bag.” Training and education are key components to the local-food movement and, for many, it starts with culinary students. At Holland College in P.E.I., which is home to the Culinary Institute of Canada, the curriculum explores the food history of regions across the con- tinent and local products, ingredients and traditional dishes. At Ontario’s Stratford Chefs School, instructor Randi Rudner says the school addresses the themes of local food and sustainability over the course of the two-year program. “In a commodities course, we address how considerations of sustainability might affect purchas- ing decisions,” Rudner says. “Each week, a group of students gives a presentation tangentially related to the course material, but focusing on the politics and ethical questions that arise. For example, when we studied eggs, the presentation examined the supply-management system that governs egg sales, and how that adversely affects small and niche suppliers.” It’s clear the discourse around the local-food movement is chang- ing. A crop grown in a specific region of Canada can become a natural part of a menu and not a “political stand,” says Kennedy. “It’s creating an economy where there wasn’t one before. That means money back into the local economy.” l visit us shoelessjoes.ca/franchising/ FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM /ShoelessJoes @goShoeless COVER STORY

After vanishing from the restaurant scene in 2012, Jonathan Gushue is back in the spotlight with his new restaurant, The Berlin

STORY BY ANDREW COPPOLINO | PHOTOGRAPHY BY JOHN HRYNIUK|

remained a hot topic until he was located by police, drunk, in a Montreal hotel about speaks with the courage of his convictions: two weeks later, safe and honest with him- about food, about the craft of cooking and self about his alcoholism. He quietly left teaching his cooks, about his own restaurant Langdon Hall a few months later and set in the burgeoning food scene in revitalized about getting his personal life and career downtown Kitchener, Ont. — and about fac- back in working order. “I’ve learned a lot ing his struggle with alcohol. about alcoholism,” says Gushue who has Opening The Berlin — a first for the been in rehab and admits his drinking was former executive chef at Langdon Hall in out of control. He acknowledges the situa- Cambridge, Ont. — is a milestone for the tion and says, “I know what I need to do.” 44-year-old in a couple of ways. It represents As for The Berlin, it’s a concept 10 years the first time he’s had his own restaurant, in the making and something he’s been and it marks his return to the industry after intensely focused on. He recounts a con- vanishing from the restaurant scene with versation with world-renowned chef René personal troubles in 2012. Redzepi in Toronto about a decade ago The married father of three left Langdon during which the Noma chef asked him, Hall the night of Dec. 28 — leaving his “Why don’t you have your own restaurant?” mobile phone and car behind — and wasn’t Gushue says he didn’t have an answer then, heard from for days. His disappearance but the comment stuck with him and he blew up on social media and the mystery kept asking himself, “Why don’t I?”

22 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY APRIL 2016 FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM COVER STORY

FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY APRIL 2016 23 COVER STORY

Now, three years later, he’s built his own venue — a process he calls iconic Kitchener: its earlier iterations as a grocery and then a hardware stressful yet cathartic. “It’s exciting and it’s liberating,” he says. Given store date back to the late 1800s. It was a popular downtown business, that he was looking for a space in Toronto, it’s also serendipitous. Peter Martin’s 41 Restaurant, until a few years ago and retains those “Kitchener never really occurred to us, but if you look at our original old bones. The 3,300-sq.-ft. main dining room seats 114 while the business plan of what we wanted, it is this exact space.” multi-purpose rooms on the second floor can accommodate another Gushue and his business partner, Ryan Lloyd-Craig, opened in 145 guests. “We can do seated events for 24 and a standing reception the city’s central downtown on Dec. 21, 2015. The restaurant’s name for up to 40 in the boardroom, which is set up with AV equipment,” captures both the historic Germanic past of the city — Kitchener was Lloyd-Craig says. The larger room upstairs can accommodate 70 called Berlin until 1916 — and Gushue’s vision for the food. “The rea- seated and 100 standing. The main dining area also features a good- son we opened this restaurant was to do something that was fair and sized bar and a living wall of herbs from Living Fresh Flower Studio something that could offer value. You can get great product and you and School in Kitchener. can offer it at a good price. So many people say if you buy organic or Gushue describes the kitchen as modular and Japanese in style with grass-fed beef, you can’t possibly offer that to your guests at a proper a “kitchen counter” that allows guests to watch the cooks as they work. price. That’s just not the case.” Among his favourite local suppliers are The centrepiece is the Grillworks wood-burning hearth, which is con- Chassagne in Puslinch, Ont.; Blackview Farm in Listowel, Ont.; and stantly in use. The Medieval-looking mechanism has two 24-inch grills Sebringville, Ont.-based Antony John and Soiled Reputation. that are manually cranked up and down. It’s a unique piece of equip- The design and build-out took time. There were the usual delays ment, and Gushue’s cooks use it for just about every ingredient. “We have with regulations and code standards for ventilation systems, chair fun playing with it. It brings everyone in the kitchen together because purchases to be made and getting the dining-room floor just right, but every section of our menu is tied into it in one way or another,” he says. Gushue won’t comment on the restaurant’s renovation costs, saying That menu, offering five appetizers ($9 to $16), five mains ($15 to he was more concerned about meeting timelines. The design process $42), three desserts ($10 to $13) and a daily cheese feature, has stayed began in June 2015 and the doors opened for a private event on Dec. true to the original business plan and most Saturdays, the restaurant 10, 2015. breaks the 200-customer threshold. People have been happy with the Lloyd-Craig says the new restaurant, which is open for lunch selection and the price point, which are in line with the fine-dining Tuesday to Friday from 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. and for dinner Tuesday to industry, according to Lloyd-Craig. “If we find some terrific grass-feed Saturday from 5 p.m. to 10 p.m., appeals to a wide range of clientele. beef for a weekend and we need to charge more, we do it. We did a “There are young professionals, lawyers and those self-proclaimed special appetizer on a Saturday night and had to [increase] the price foodies looking for a new upscale restaurant,” says Lloyd-Craig. “We by $6. We sold almost 60 of them.” do get a lot of people from Toronto, Hamilton and Burlington on Gushue is quick to praise Waterloo Region’s farmers and producers Friday and Saturday nights [but] during the week, it is mostly locals.” and draws on them to create food he describes as modern European. In what is Canada’s 10th largest metropolitan area, the building is “But I still want the opportunity to use other techniques and styles I’ve learned during my travels through England, France and Japan. I love the noodle tradition of Hungary, spätzle in Austria, the Czech Republic, Germany and Poland. These are fascinating traditions of food. It’s funny how close they are but how different they are.” Gushue, who lives in nearby Cambridge, Ont. with his family, recruited Andrea Hennige, a veteran of the Waterloo Region food scene, as restaurant manager. “She naturally understands the dining room,” he says. “She gets how to deal with customers and staff.” A number of former colleagues from Langdon Hall have also joined him: sommelier Wes Klassen and bar manager Stacey Anderson, among others. Along with sous chef Kempton Munshaw, he has a crew of 12 cooks (he had 43 at Langdon) and says that though there is a responsibility similar to other positions he’s had, he feels more in control here. “When it hits the fan here, it’s up to me. And I think that’s great.” At the same time, he believes cooks need development. Gushue is a pragmatist and knows their engagement benefits the restaurant and manifests itself as good quality work and employee retention. “You owe them more than a paycheque. They owe you their best hard work. If you are teaching them, they are constantly engaged but I don’t want them just to toe the line. I want people coming out of this kitchen to be creative and think for themselves.” On the topic of other ventures in the works, Gushue is cagey. “We have had offers for new properties that are going up in Waterloo

24 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY APRIL 2016 FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM COVER STORY

TASTES OF PERFECTION (clockwise from far left) spiced pork belly and Manila clams with pickled red onion and mar- inated fennel; Toast to Spring made from Dillons gin, lillet, toasted lavender and lemonade foam; the kitchen counter in the main dining room allows guests to watch the cooks work; herbs from local suppliers adorn the walls; Ballotine of rainbow trout with celeriac, apple and walnuts

Region and have a larger project that we have always been interested in. That’s really all I can tell you now.” Despite the stir his disappearance generated on social media, there is a peace, an equanimity, in Gushue’s demeanour. “I’m probably having the most fun I’ve ever had in my life,” he says. Yet, while he’s forthcoming and animated in talking about his personal issues, you can sense he is being cautious. “As far as coping strategies, I stay the course and do what needs to be done, and not forget. You don’t want to get into that corny adage of ‘one day at a time,’ but I accept life on life’s terms.” It’s clear he’s taken stock of where he is in his career and at the same time has rediscovered a submerged aspect of himself. “It’s not totally unexpected that I’ve found it, but it’s a discovery about relationships. I did once think people were absurd for having relationships with other people as friends or professionals. That belief that people help people — I thought that was madness and that everyone is conniving. That’s the typical mind of an alcoholic. They say you point out in others what you hate most about yourself,” he says. The reflection prompts him to return to the positive thoughts of how he and The Berlin have been warmly welcomed in Kitchener. “People have been so good to us. We’ve been so well received and get people regularly coming up to the kitchen just to say thanks for open- ing this restaurant. I’ve never heard that in my life.” l

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VisitF&H.indd 1 2016-03-16 11:44 AM SUSTAINABILITY

While the day-to-day business of running a sustainable food operation is challenging, it is becoming the new normal

BY CINDA CHAVICH

hen New York chef Dan Barber announced he would serve “garbage” at a banquet for interna- tional leaders in Washington last year, he put the global issue of food waste in the headlines. Barber recycled leftover juice pulp into veg- gie burgers with carrot top marmalade and created fries from corn destined for cattle feed. Like his pop-up restaurant, Wasted, whose menu took root in the overlooked byproducts of the food system, the goal was to educate diners about the kind of edible ingredients we routinely discard. Vancouver chef David Gunawan had a similar message when he offered Ugly Duckling Dinners at his newest hyper-local restaurant, Royal Dinette. Using “usually overlooked, often discarded off-cuts and outcasts,” Gunawan created a menu that included chicken

FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY APRIL 2016 27 SUSTAINABILITY consommé clarified with eggshells and To run a truly sustainable foodservice potato peel ice cream with coffee caramel operation, restaurant owners and chefs must TIPS FOR made from potato skins leftover from prep- look at the big picture, from where they ping gnocchi and coffee grounds. “We have source their ingredients to how they heat their GOING GREEN finite resources so it’s natural to be mindful buildings, conserve water and manage the When greening a restaurant, there are many of what we consume,” says Gunawan who entire waste stream — practices that can help building and operational components also follows a sustainable, farm-to-table restaurants reduce operating costs and stay to consider: path at his Vancouver restaurant, Farmer’s competitive, while targeting the socially con- Apprentice. “The Ugly Duckling Dinners are scious and connected millennial generation. Do an energy audit to determine an exaggerated form of our intention. The “Today’s restaurant consumer is much your total energy use, then take message is to conserve food and educate more educated and more aware of both the steps to conserve energy. Start people — before you throw this thing away, foods they’re eating and the environmental by switching to energy-efficient LED lighting, turning off fans and think of the implications.” side of the restaurant business,” says Robert equipment when they’re not in use, upgrading Those implications are serious. Canadians Carter, executive director of Foodservice for HVAC systems and replacing aging appliances waste 40 per cent of the food we produce. Toronto-based NPD Group. with Energy Star-rated equipment. If food waste was a country, it would be the Carter says consumer interest in clean, third-largest greenhouse gas producer after ethical food is up about 10 per cent in 2015. Install low-flow faucets and fix- China and the U.S., contributing to climate “Generally, what we see is interest in food tures to conserve water, avoid change and ultimately to our ability to pro- sourcing, antibiotic-free, hormone-free running water and only wash duce food. choices,” says Carter. “We group this all fully loaded dish racks. together under the Clean Food Movement. A Replace caustic industrial THE SUSTAINABLE TABLE clean benefit is a big catch-all, but we believe This focus on food waste is only one part of clean food represents $1-billion in sales in cleaning products with non- toxic, eco-friendly, biodegrad- the puzzle when it comes to the latest trend Canada. Overall spending in foodservice is able ones. Look for third-party in restaurant kitchens — sustainability. flat, so that increased spending on clean food certified products. is pretty dramatic.” SOURCE: LEADERS IN ENVIRONMENTALLY ACCOUNTABLE FOOD SERVICE [TIPS FOR GROWING GREEN] A recent survey by the U.S. National When choosing furniture, flooring and even Restaurant Association listed local sourcing, paint for your restaurant, think about the carbon food waste reduction and environmental footprint of the product, the chemicals used in sustainability among the top 10 trends for the production of materials and fabrics, whether BEEFING UP EFFORTS Earls 2016, with 41 per cent of chefs surveyed there’s ongoing off-gassing and how you can Restaurants strives predicting environmental sustainabil- recycle the item at the end of its life. Look for for 100-per-cent products made locally, low-VOC “consciously ity as the fastest-growing trend in sourced” and restaurants over the next decade. paints and millwork, materials humanely raised with GreenGuard eco-certifica- ingredients tion and bamboo, cork or other YOUR CARBON eco-friendly flooring. FOOD-PRINT In her new book, “Greening When building a new location, your Hospitality Business,” consider solar or geothermal consultant Jill Doucette energy systems, heat pumps, says the green movement site selection and sun expo- is not a trend, but rather, sure. Design the building with “a paradigm shift in com- low E-glazed and clerestory windows to capture merce. Consumers, particu- natural light and solar hot water systems for larly millennials, are not only in-floor heating. Incorporate wind power, green roofs and drought-resistant landscaping. Design shopping for value, they are and build to LEED certified standards. shopping to see whether your values are aligned with theirs,” she writes. “By making choices Vancouver Island Green Business such as shopping local, promoting Certification (VIGBC) program, a third- organics and selecting regional wines, party green audit for restaurant, retail and craft beers and spirits, you can connect office-based businesses. “On a square-foot with a conscious clientele who understands basis, hospitality businesses are huge when the impact of their spending.” it comes to energy consumption,” says Doucette developed the non-profit Doucette. She recommends adopting green

28 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY APRIL 2016 FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM SUSTAINABILITY

CREATING A SUSTAINABLE CULTURE

When chef Chris Whittaker opened Forage restaurant in Vancouver’s Listel Hotel, he did it with a culture of sustainability in mind. This meant having the entire organization, from management/owners down, committed to the idea of a sustainable food program. “I like to think we are sustainable due to a combination of things — not only the practical equipment retrofit and our purchasing practices, but also paying staff a fair living wage,” he says. In terms of day-to-day implementation, a big focus is on reducing waste. “We have a zero-waste facility so it’s daily sorting of every- SOURCE: LEADERS IN ENVIRONMENTALLY ACCOUNTABLE FOOD SERVICE [TIPS FOR GROWING GREEN] thing and repurposing stuff — using all parts of the vegetable, all parts of the animal.” He says it’s getting easier for chefs to adopt this culture. “We get approached by a SUSTAINABLE lot of suppliers and see a lot of small farm- SNACKING ers coming online — and most local farmers, At Vancouver’s Forage Restaurant, even if not certified organic, are growing seafood is sourced organically,” he says. by adhering to But, he notes, it’s a more challenging way Ocean Wise standards to run a business. “When I do my ordering it’s not just one call, there are five or six farmers, a couple of fishers, a bison producer — it’s a lot more work on the administrative side. The menu is more work, too, but it’s good work. We change it two or three times every two weeks, it keeps me motivated.” At Forage, energy use has been reduced by 26 per cent — even though business vol- ume is up by 40 per cent. “The whole hotel operation is focused on sustainability — they have solar panels, recycling and composting containers in guestrooms, a heat-recovery system and retrofits” that started a decade ago, culminating in the newly refitted (and relaunched) Forage restaurant four years ago. On the staffing side, a sustainable kitch- en helps motivate and retain cooks. “We’ve seen turnover below the industry average, with a core group in the kitchen that has stayed, which helps a lot. But even now I’m finding it tough with so many new restau- rants opening.”

FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY APRIL 2016 29 SUSTAINABILITY

Fish Hook owner/chef Kunal Ghose was an early sustainable operator, opening the popular Red Fish, Blue Fish in Victoria in 2007. Diners still line up daily for the Albacore Tuna Tacones with Spot Prawn Mayo ($6.50) at the harbourside take-out window, but Ghose now has plenty of com- pany in the green dining scene. “Red Fish, Blue Fish was the first 100-per-cent Ocean Wise restaurant on Vancouver Island,” he says. “Now, you stand out if you’re not doing these things.”

SUSTAINABLE SUPPLIES The hospitality industry has the power to LOOKS AREN’T EVERYTHING Ugly Duckling VIGBC-certified restaurants, including sev- influence what people eat and the buying dinners at Vancouver-based Royal Dinette utilize “outcast” ingredients to create culinary eral in the downtown core that have formed power to impact the way food is produced. masterpieces a Food Eco-District of carbon-neutral Chefs are in a unique position to shift the establishments ranging from the tiny AJ’s focus of farmers, fishers and wholesalers — practices, from measurable energy savings Organic Café to Fish Hook, Tacofino, Big Vancouver Aquarium’s Ocean Wise program through building and equipment retrofits, Wheel Burger and Zambri’s. They’ve col- is just one example of how demand has to water conservation, recycling and “short- laborated on urban garden projects to sup- increased supplies of sustainable seafood ening the supply chain by supporting a ply herbs and greens to member chefs and and expanded consumer choice. more local model.” joint marketing initiatives to promote their But with major chains now adopting In Victoria, B.C., there are now 40 sustainable mission. green initiatives — think A&W’s hormone-

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SETTING A SUSTAINABLE EXAMPLE and steroid-free beef and antibiotic-free chicken, or McDonald’s, Dunkin’ Donuts CALGARY’S SAL HOWELL has and Denny’s plans to switch to cage- long been a leader in the sustain- free eggs — ethical sources are strained. able food movement — her River McDonald’s uses two billion eggs annually, Café and Boxwood restaurants, with Denny’s serving another 400 million. both set in city parks, are undeni- “A lot of big manufacturers are starting ably green destinations. “From very to understand that consumers and chefs will early on it was about organic, sus- pay more if they believe there’s a benefit,” tainable growers, their methods of production and scale,” she says. says Carter, citing Maple Leaf Foods’ com- “It was about the quality of the food mitment to reducing the use of antibiotics and it was the right thing to do.” by its pork and poultry suppliers, and line Howell’s sustainable journey of “raised without antibiotics” products. began with a culinary philosophy “Restaurants are saying ‘We want to be in and has grown over 25 years to the game of the clean-food movement, but include an organic wine list, an in-house water puri- River Café was the pilot restaurant for the national how do we source that food?’” fication system and a zero-waste kitchen. She show- Leaders in Environmentally Accountable Foodservice For Earls Restaurants, the goal is a cased beer and wine from the western Cascadia (LEAF) green restaurant certification program, which 100-per-cent “consciously sourced” and region, partnered with a local organic farmer to cre- now boasts more than 50 members across Canada. humanely raised menu at its 66 locations ate a kitchen garden and replaced flowers outside Howell says reaching each milestone pushes her across Canada and the U.S. by April this the restaurant with edibles. further. “The definition of sustainable for River Café Recycling was the next step, growing into a com- is environmental, economic and social,” she says. year, says communications manager Cate prehensive composting program. “We started sorting “We need to be economically sustainable beyond Simpson. “In the U.S. we serve only certified milk cartons and glass, now we have a complete running a successful business. It means fair pricing, sustainable seafood, including shrimp and ‘table-to-farm’ solution for all compostable matter, equity and pay for the whole supply chain, and the prawns,” she says. “Each location uses local, including meat and fish.” well-being of our entire sustainable community.” ethically raised, free-run chicken, raised

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Foodservice and Hospitality - April.indd 1 2016-03-08 4:05 PM SUSTAINABILITY

without antibiotics, and cage-free eggs. businesses per square foot,” says McNeil, We serve only 100-per-cent certified Black who recycles and composts 90 per cent of Angus beef raised without the use of ste- all waste at Big Wheel Burger. “It’s not that roids, antibiotics or added hormones.” expensive to do — you’re going to be pay- Earls serves 750,000 lbs of steak and two ing to remove your garbage anyway. It’s a million lbs of Black Angus chuck each year totally workable model.” for burgers, at an added cost of 15 to 25 Fairmont Hotels has long embraced per cent. Simpson says buying humanely green business practices, too, with “sustain- raised pork and bacon remains challeng- ability teams” at each property. Vancouver’s ing — even Chipotle Mexican Grill removed Fairmont Waterfront has a top Green Key pork carnitas from the menu last year due Eco-Rating, with a rooftop food garden to short supply — and squid is problematic. that’s been buzzing with bees for more than “Squid, in Canada, is the only elusive prod- two decades. Nothing goes to waste, whether uct,” she says. “Humboldt squid is the only it’s recycling mattresses or kitchen scraps. sustainable squid available right now — cal- An “on-demand” system uses scales to amari may just have to come off the menu.” determine when waste pick-up is necessary, reducing removal costs. “There are literally ON THE GREEN LINE no garbage cans in the kitchen — we recycle The day-to-day business of running a sus- and compost everything,” says Alessandro tainable food operation is challenging, but Vianello, chef at the Waterfront’s Arc restau- WASTE NOT, WANT NOT Arc restaurant at may be the new normal. rant. Turnip and radish greens are sautéed the Fairmont Waterfront in Vancouver recycles and composts everything in its kitchen and par- At Victoria’s Big Wheel Burger, owner with potatoes, juiced for sauces, or puréed ticipates in a gleaning program to help reduce Calen McNeil is proving that even fast- for pesto. “We also participate with glean- food waste at the farm level food can be carbon neutral. “Restaurants ing (the act of collecting leftover crops from are one of the highest carbon-producing farmers’ fields after they have been com-

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mercially harvested or on fields where it is with your entire business, from employees favours Salmon Safe or Environmental not economically profitable to harvest) and to management, completely buying into the Farm Plan-certified farms for meat and food-recovery projects — nothing is ever concept,” says Whittaker. produce. wasted.” In Forage’s zero-waste kitchen, “every- While he says “it’s a lot more work on The rooftop garden now includes vertical thing we use is recycled, composted or sent the administrative side,” going green is a Invictus Urban Farm structures (a square- to a waste-to-energy company,” he says. great marketing tool, brings new customers foot gardening system) to expand food pro- Their sharing plates menu reduces food and makes for an engaged, loyal staff. “Our duction and composting on site, with crops waste and it no longer serves free bread with business is up by 30 to 40 per cent,” he says. ranging from kale and chard to lettuce, meals, one of the industry’s biggest waste “It was the right move.” l strawberries, Brussels sprouts, tomatoes, streams. All ingredi- chilies and herbs. ents are used — fish With food costs rising, Vianello says heads fermented it’s now cheaper to make the sustainable to fish sauce, fruit choice of buying from local farms. “Nearly peelings turned into 80 per cent of our products are local,” he vinegars and shrubs says. “Produce comes in ripe and pristine for cocktails, potato — high-quality products with a better yield skins leftover from because we don’t have to waste as much.” making gnocchi When chef Chris Whittaker opened crisped and smoked Forage restaurant in Vancouver’s Listel for potato skin bar Hotel in 2012, it was in a purpose-built snacks. space designed to be sustainable on many Seafood is levels, from the farm-to-table philosophy sourced by adhering to the energy efficient HVAC. “I think the to Ocean Wise stan- key is having a culture of sustainability, dards and Whittaker

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CALIFORNIA DREAMING Golden State vintages have taken the lead in Canadian table-wine sales BY DANIELLE SCHALK

alifornia wines Karma’s] Cabernet continue to reign Sauvignon ($13/6 oz.) in supreme in the our Toronto location,” CCanadian market, boast- he adds. ing retail sales topping Canadians’ penchant $1 billion for the second for the Golden State’s year in a row, according grape elixirs does vary to the Wine Institute by province. “In Toronto, of California (WIC). California is number-1,” “California wines have he explains. “On the west been on a real growth coast, B.C. wines are curve over the past seven number-1 and California or eight years … to the comes second.” Albertans point where in 2015 we also love their California became the top-selling GREEN, GREEN WINE wines and exhibit a import table wine popular in the Canadian Trois Red (approximately preference for Zinfandel category in Canada, market, there has been California, along with many $17) and Cupcake Red — such as The Prisoner surpassing France and a shift in which vari- of the world’s wine-pro- Velvet (approximately (offered by the bottle at Italy for the first time etals consumers prefer. ducing countries, has been $14) among the top- $88) — that is unmatched in history,” says Rick Cabernet Sauvignon and putting an increased focus selling labels. by other regions. on sustainability in its Slomka, director of the Chardonnay continue to These emerging favou- Beyond regional dif- winegrowing and produc- WIC’s Canadian office be category leaders, with rites have not gone unno- ferences, both Slomka tion practices. At the core in Burlington, Ont. He Beringer, J. Lohr and of these practices is water ticed at Cactus Club Cafe and Le Goff agree credits fruit-forward Robert Mondavi labels and energy conservation, restaurants. “California Canadians’ taste in taste profiles and a strong leading the pack for maintaining air, water and really jumped on the wine is subject to a gen- quality-to-value ratio as both varietals. However, soil quality and the preser- bandwagon and is pro- erational divide. Younger key factors in the vintag- other grapes are captur- vation of local ecosystems. ducing a crazy amount of clientele are favouring es’ Canadian success. ing attention, including The state boasts several Moscato,” notes Sebastien lighter California offer- Despite four con- Pinot Noir and Moscato. certification bodies, includ- Le Goff, sommelier ings, while their older secutive years of drought, “Another big success ing the Certified California and service director at counterparts remain Slomka says California’s story for California over Sustainable Winegrowing Cactus Restaurants Ltd. loyal to “bigger, bolder program (CCSW-Certified). wine production has been the last five years has “It’s [popular] across the varieties.” It would seem In fact, in 2015, 64 per cent virtually unaffected. In been the emergence of board [in Canada] but it California’s wine pro- of cases were certified fact, grape production red blends, as opposed under CCSW-Certified, is definitely seasonal. It’s ducers are privy to the figures show counterin- to specific varieties,” Lodi Rules, Napa Green easy drinking, especially call for lighter wines. “I tuitive results. “In 2012, adds Slomka. These and/or Sip Certified. for the summer months.” think the alcohol level in 2013 and 2014, [produc- wines — vinified from “Hopefully this summer we Le Goff says California wines has been tion] was above average in a combination of grape will also be able to have California wines are reducing in the past cou- terms of harvest size,” says varieties — have proven recognition on our labels popular at Cactus Club ple of years,” says Le Goff. Slomka, noting 2015 was particularly popular indicating what wines are Cafe’s 29 restaurants “Some wineries that were down in comparison but among the younger sustainably grown,” says across the country. selling wines at 14 to 14.5 still “around the norm.” cohorts. Slomka lists Rick Slomka, the Wine “Our number-1 selling per cent alcohol are now Institute of California’s Though California Apothic Red (approxi- red wine by the glass selling those with 13 to Canadian director. wines have long been mately $15), Menage à is actually [California 13.5 per cent.” l

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PHOTOS: RENARTE NORTH AMERICA EQUIPMENT

DINING IN STYLE New collections, such as the Mesh line from Rosenthal, add style to a table

One size doesn’tDISHING fit all when it comes toIT dinnerware OUT and cutlery choices

BY DENISE DEVEAU

or restaurateurs and foodservice operators, there’s a distinct reason for using certain dinnerware and cutlery. Whether the focus is on function, form, Fstyle or substance, there are plenty of available options. For Geoffrey Morden, executive chef at the Shaw Centre in Ottawa, those choices are all about consis- tency, quality and supply. That’s especially important on days when the conference facility may need to serve up

PHOTOS: RENARTE NORTH AMERICA NORTH PHOTOS: RENARTE to 4,000 meals in a sitting.

FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY APRIL 2016 37 EQUIPMENT

WONDERFUL WOOD record of reliability that can The Frankfurt Beech Wenge consistently provide replace- line of wooden tableware from TAKE IT AWAY Zassenhause lends a rustic ments and has a portfolio feel to restaurant settings that can take care of all Shaw Centre’s needs, from cups and saucers to signature pieces for buffets. At Scaddabush, colour and variety are the drivers behind the concept’s rustic Italian theme, says Mike Cappiello, VP, Alice Fazooli’s, Scaddabush for SIR Corp. in Burlington, Ont. With three locations and plans for There’s no question that eco-friendly four more in the coming months packaging for disposable and take- (two Alice Fazooli’s conversions out containers has become a key and two new sites), he says the mandate for many foodservice oper- new dinnerware and cutlery ations. But the decision also has to fits in with the resurgence in make good business sense, says Italian-style, homemade, pre- Dan Olson, co-owner of Railtown Cafe in Vancouver, where takeout mium food. “We’re striving for accounts for 80 per cent of its busi- the most Italian kitchen-type ness. “We do whatever we can to The dinnerware choice is a One of those factors is that with our smallwares,” Cappiello make sure disposable items are simple, sturdy white design from the kitchen runs a sizeable explains. “So we have a mish- made of 80 to 100 per cent recycled U.K.-based Steelite that can Rational cook/chill finish opera- mash of generously sized plates, materials. Bamboo and wood forks handle day-to-day usage and is tion, which means plates have bowls and side plates that suits and knives are beautiful, but they’re easily replenished. “Colours may to be the right dimensions to a non-linear, non-structured also 50 cents a piece. We would be in vogue now, but in two or maximize the space on racks. atmosphere. Not everything have to raise prices to absorb the three years they may not be,” Another is plate covers. “I’d say matches but it’s all indicative of cost of that.” Morden says. “Turnover can get 90 per cent of the meals we serve what you would find in a tradi- For cutlery, he looks to biode- very costly, so it’s often better for need to be lidded and stacked tional Italian kitchen.” gradable content such as plant/ potato starch. His disposable plates operations like ours to stick with before they are run out. While it Going the multi-colour, of choice are composed of sugar more standard designs. Sure, we would be nice to have square or multi-shape route may come at cane fibre, which is both renewable would love to pick more con- rectangular plates, manufactur- a slight premium, he says. “But and compostable. The kraft takeout temporary upscale stuff, but the ing a custom lid would cost four the rustic category is growing so containers are made from 100 per reality is we have to take other to five times a standard stainless there’s a lot more to choose from cent recycled paperboard. “We factors into consideration.” steel one,” Morden notes. and it’s a lot more affordable can never claim to be 100 per cent Flatware is a simple than it was. It’s not as cheap as compostable or biodegradable for contemporary modern white, but [the premium] is not everything, but we get as close as design by New York- enough to be a detriment to our we can to that standard,” he says. based Oneida chosen profit model.” Interest in eco-friendly and/or for its clean look and Whether it’s classic white sustainable disposable products is growing year-over-year, says Peter weight. “When choos- for a high-volume operation or Bozzer, director of procurement, ing cutlery, we have to home kitchen-style smallwares Flanagan Foodservice in Kitchener, think about the weight in a more intimate restaurant Ont. “Caterers, in particular, get and what that means setting, Bill Horosko, presi- more requests to supply carbon if servers have to walk dent of Tableware Solutions in neutral events. Typically they look at long distances. Also, Mississauga, Ont. says restau- cutlery first.” the finish is important. rateurs should think about Popular cutlery choices include Plated silver might be consistency and availability of wood and bamboo. Bozzer con- fine for higher-end immediate supply when deter- firms, however, that cost is indeed STEELING THE SHOW The a factor, with some items starting at Even flatware collection from hotels, but stainless steel is much mining what fits best for their double the price of traditional plas- Sambonet is crafted from low- less work.” environment. tic-based cutlery. “Others can cost maintenance stainless steel When choosing suppliers, Plain, white ceramic that three to four times as much.” Morden looks for a good track is simple and ergonomically

38 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY APRIL 2016 FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM EQUIPMENT

designed has long dominated basic choices, with some chefs opting for value-added features such as surface designs, unusual shapes and embossments. Heat retention is often a consider- ation as well. “Chefs want the confidence that the dishes they choose can keep the presenta- tion consistent no matter how far the table is from the kitchen,” Horosko says. A parallel trend gaining ground these days is the “cot- tage industry-type” movement that features varied colours as well as complementary materials such as stainless steel and wood. The hottest trends in recent Horosko explains. “Whatever the option of choice for mainstream plates in pricing. months is charcuterie boards composition, it should be properly demands, while a new and unique Whatever the budget or and sharing platters and vessels, balanced all the way through so offering on the cutlery horizon is theme however, Horosko says he reports. they are comfortable and func- PVD (physical vapour deposition) choices ultimately boil down to As a much longer term invest- tional. These features matter to coatings, with finishes ranging one principle. “Everybody wants ment, the main factors for choos- consumers and can make a huge from copper and gold to black, the highest perceived value they ing cutlery are weight and balance, difference.” Stainless steel is the which are comparable to silver can get.” l STAY IN THE LOOP Sign up for KML’s weekly Newsblast to find out everything you need to know about what’s happening in the foodservice and hospitality industry, as well as fast links to access resources and information. Newsblast is delivered every Wednesday to your email inbox. For more information, go to kostuchmedia.com and click on the Newsblast icon

Newblast_HH.indd 1 2015-08-25 10:31 AM CHEF’S CORNER

BRITISH

Michelin-starredINVASION chef Neil McCue returns to Calgary to serve up British-inspired fare at Whitehall BY DANIELLE SCHALK

eil McCue laid the groundwork for his culinary career while pipework bar designed by McCue to reflect the style of an “old-school cooking alongside his grandmother in his hometown of British bar” with a modern twist. The 82-seat restaurant is comprised Barnsley, England. To this day, the chef is inspired by her of two distinct spaces, the lower dining room and bar — which Nsimple, ingredient-driven approach to food. However, it was when offers both lunch and dinner — and the private dining room, dubbed McCue began his culinary education at Barnsley Technical College in “The Other Room.” South Yorkshire that he truly fell in love with the kitchen. “The first McCue says his pursuit of a Michelin star has shaped his culinary day I went to college, I got my hands on a whole chicken and we had style. “If you put three perfect things on a plate, they can only judge to [break it down],” he recounts. “As soon as I got my hands on that you on those three perfect things,” he explains. “It really teaches you to bird, it was one of those love affair moments.” strip back.” His style is reflected in Whitehall’s simple, British-inspired PHOTOS: COLIN WAY [NEIL M c After finishing school, McCue worked at restaurants in England fare. “It’s about the flavour and the technique,” he says. “It’s recogniz- such as Chewton Glen in Hampshire and Auberge Du Lac in able food and it’s always approachable.” Hertfordshire, before coming to Canada at the age of 27 to become The menu includes double-baked cheese soufflé ($16); bison rib the sous chef at Cambridge, Ont.’s Langdon Hall. He spent six years tartar with charcoal, kohlrabi, truffle and rye bread ($21); Berkshire in Canada, where he helped open Catch in Calgary and Square pork belly served with turnips, smoked apple, goat’s cheese and black in Toronto. pudding ($28); chestnut honey-glazed duck breast with endive, orange, CUE], DREAMSTIME.COM [BITS & BITES] Ultimately, a desire to attain Michelin star-ranking led the chef marmalade and potatoes ($30); and rice pudding with cinnamon milk back home to England. It was while working at Curlew Restaurant mousse, crunchy flakes of dehydrated fried rice and vanilla ice cream in East Sussex that McCue achieved his goal, retaining a Michelin for dessert ($12). star for three years. His next goal was to open his own restaurant, so As the chef works to establish Whitehall as a leading restaurant on after talking to former colleagues from Calgary, McCue returned to the Canadian dining scene, he is already planning future concepts. Canada where he opened Whitehall in the Bridgeland neighbourhood “I’d like to do a proper pub — English done really well,” says McCue, of Calgary in late 2015. Named in part for the Palace of Whitehall adding that after opening in Calgary he plans to take this concept to in London, England, the restaurant features white tin ceilings and a other Canadian cities including Vancouver and Toronto. l

BITS & BITES If you weren’t a chef, what would you be? “A professional What do golfer” you do in your Favourite spare kitchen tool: time? “My cleaver” Ultimate comfort food: “I golf, “Rice pudding” snowboard Favourite food memory: and read” “My mom’s lamb with mint sauce” Favourite restaurant: “Etxebarri in Northern Spain”

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