A Tourist in Tuhoe Heartland
4 Living JUNE 16, 2013 COVER STORY A tourist in Tuhoe heartland Liz Light visits Ruatahuna, deep in Te Urewera National Park, the setting for the latest New Zealand film, White Lies. Oputao Marae is in heartland Tuhoe country. ichardWhite’s alarm clock is set for 6.30am and every morning he wakes to the deep, sweet Rtones of Louis Armstrong, “I think to myself, what a wonderful world.” Ruatahuna, a village that straggles along a valley in a big bubble of Maori land in the middle of Te Urewera National Park, is Richard’s wonderful world. Green farmland is surrounded by steep mountains clothed in dark, primeval rainforest. The forest seems to be quietly creeping down, reclaiming land that once belonged to it, making a mockery of man’s futile attempts to farm and nudging the cattle and horses further down the valley. The Whakatane River that carved this valley is young and sprightly, dancing around rocks and sometimes slowing down in pools where trout swim. This is heartland Tuhoe territory and the 260 people who live in Ruatahuna speak Maori, their first language. It’s also the location of the latest New Zealand movie, White Lies, and one of few such places that welcomes and hosts tourists wishing to experience a unique landscape and lifestyle. The valley has 10 hapu and each has its own marae. Oputao Marae belongs to the extended White family and has done for hundreds of years. Richard and Meriann, and their youngest son Paraki, live here but over Christmas the whanau — uncles, aunts, brothers, cousins, and lots of children — return from all over New Zealand, and some from Australia.
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