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Home , Birsay, Bishop of Orkney, Brough of Birsay, Damsay, Deerness, Gairsay

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VIKING - SETTLEMENT TO 1100 HISTORY & ARCHAEOLOGY

ply disappear. Existing settle- This is well stated in Historia m u e

th s

ments were taken over by the Norwegiae, written in the 11 u

th M

Vikings, who may even have or 12 century about the y e n

reused some Pictish pots and that they “did marvels in the k r other household items, but morning and in the evening, in O soon the invaders imposed building towns, but at mid-day their own farming style and they entirely lost all their land-holding patterns, which strength, and lurked, through are preserved as farm names fear, in underground houses'” and parishes to this day. It goes on to say “But in due course…certain pirates…set Recent excavations have sug- out with a great fleet…and gested that there may have stripped these races of their Brough of - Norse church been a considerable Pictish ancient settlements, destroyed For six hundred years Orkney technology. The development population in Orkney at the them wholly, and subdued the was dominated by the Norse, of large ocean-going sailing time of the Viking migrations islands to themselves.” initially invaders and then set- ships, combined with a knowl- in the 8th century and there tlers from Western , edge of seamanship and navi- have been suggestions that the The early 20th century who rapidly colonised the gation, which could reliably Norse colonisation may have Orcadian historian, Storer islands and then went on to transport people, livestock and been "peaceful". However, Clouston, had no illusions build the Earldom which at its goods for long distances, there is scant evidence sup- about what happened, “Surely peak controlled much of the allowed them an ascendancy porting this idea. the common-sense of the mat- west coast of , the Isle over other coastal Europeans ter …is evident. The first of Man, and for several centuries. Very few Celtic placenames ....proposed to settle . today and other words have survived in these islands, whether the remain proud of their Norse Orkney made an obvious base suggesting that the Norse existing inhabitants liked it or Whalebone plaque from boat burial, Scar, Sanday heritage and, though British, for these seafaring people, in a political takeover must have not. They brought their during the Viking era which maintain their historic links time when there was no quick been fast and virtually total, swords, and if the inhabitants greatly aided westward expan- with Norway. land transport. While there is and that no "integration" took were numerous and offered sion, the development of more some evidence that contact place. The attractiveness of resistance, they fought them. advanced agriculture and pop- The westward expansion of may already have been going Orkney as a Viking base, due If they were few and fled, they ulation growth. the started late in the on for some time before the to position and natural took their land without fight- th 8 century and, apart from main influx, it now seems that resources, must have been ing. They did, in fact, exactly It also seems that the Vikings population and other pres- the Norse takeover was abrupt overwhelming, and the Pictish what we ourselves have done had mastered several other sures, was made possible by and complete. The Picts sim- people, leaders, churchmen in later centuries, in India, important things such as Linen smoother Lower guard and tang of sword Scar boat burial, Sanday and ordinary people either fled America, Africa, Australia. (slightly) improved domestic m

u or were slaughtered. That is the only way in which Man’s comb found at Scar boat burial, Sanday - dates to AD850-925 e s m u we can settle a new land- u e M s y This short but violent period chance your luck, but always u e n M k y r of Viking migration at the end bring your gun.” e O th n of the 8 century, enabled the k r seizure of Orkney and Most of our knowledge of the O , and then much of Vikings comes from the , the far north of Scotland from which describe the feuds of the Picts. Once power was great families and the deeds of established there followed a great men, but do not give further influx of settlers such much detail of more mundane that Norse culture and lan- events or conditions. There guage totally replaced Pictish. was a climatic improvement

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VIKING ORKNEY - SETTLEMENT TO 1100 HISTORY & ARCHAEOLOGY

hygiene and midwifery, as his half-brother Torf Einar, well as being good black- who “took the earldom, and smiths, joiners, farmers, ship- was long earl, and was a man builders and seamen. Clearly of great power”. He was many were also good men-at- renowned for his eyesight arms, but this was probably despite being one-eyed, and is only one aspect of their power. said to have shown the people Above all they were craftsmen how to use peat as a fuel. The and took great pride in their recounts how he found work as is evident by the and slew Halfdan Fairhair on many high quality weapons, Norse boat-burial excavation at Westness, for killing Howe of Hoxa, said to be burial place of Thorfinn “Skullsplitter” items of jewellry and, perhaps his father (Rognvald) by burn- the 12th century in Iceland, making raids on Norway. ( Hope) in in 995, on most important, the advanced ing him alive in his house in give a vivid account of Viking During his time Norway was pain of the death of his son. technology of their ships and Norway. He then carved the times, with many colourful united as one kingdom (in The whole of Orkney was said navigation skills. blood eagle on Halfdan’s characters. 892AD), and the lands “west to have embraced the faith. back, “Einar had his ribs cut over sea” of Orkney, Shetland, The son, Hvelp, died soon Today nearly all our place- from the spine with a sword According to the Saga the the and Man came after, so renounced names derive from , and the lungs pulled out Norse oval brooch Earldom was founded by under his rule. and refused to with only a few possible through the slits in his back. King Harald Harfargi recognise King Olaf. Pictish remnants. The He dedicated the victim to (Fairhair), who set out “west Earl Rognvald of More was and other as a victory offering” over sea” to deal with the made , but he He was killed in 1014 at the Norse Sagas, mostly written in Orkney Vikings who kept passed the title to his brother, when he Thorfinn Skull-Splitter, said

m Sigurd, (The Mighty), the first himself took up the Raven u

e to be buried in the Howe of s Earl of Orkney to be recorded Banner, after many had fallen u Norse sword pommel

M Hoxa (), by history. Sigurd is best y

e became sole Earl when his n

k known for his death rather r brothers were killed at he O than his life. During one of his Battle of Stainmore in 954. forays into Scottland, about He was said to be “a mighty AD893, he incurred the wrath chief and warlike”, but it is of a man called Maelbrigte not recorded how he came by “Tusk”. A meeting was his nickname. arranged where each was to bring 40 men and 40 horses. was a pow- However Sigurd put two men erful Earl, who was known for on each horse, with the result Equal-armed brooch from the Scar boat-burial his prowess in battle, his sor- Osmondwall, Longhope that all the Scots were killed cery and his ability to invoke Norse house at Quoygrew, (Lower Trenaby), and beheaded. Norse buildings on the the old gods. His mother was a sorceress and made him the The Vikings tied the heads to enchanted Raven Banner, their saddles in triumph, but warning “my belief is this: Maelbrigte had the last laugh that it will bring victory to the as one of his protruding buck man it's carried before, but teeth scratched Sigurd’s leg, death to the one who carries causing a fatal infection. He is it”. buried near Oykelbridge. Sigurd was forcibly converted Sigurd was succeeded by to Christianity by King Olav another colourful character, Tryggvesson at Osmondwall

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VIKING ORKNEY - SETTLEMENT TO 1100 HISTORY & ARCHAEOLOGY

Bishop of Orkney , Thorolf, was appointed. VIKING TIMELINE 1 Thorfinn established Christ SETTLEMENT to 1100 Church and a Bishop’s Palace c.600 Development of sailing at Birsay, next to his own. longships late 700s Norse settlement in Orkney - Picts overwhelmed The Norse Earls were always 794 Viking attacks on in as close touch with Scottish islands (Irish Annals) rulers as they were with their 790s Major Viking attacks on Britain Norse superiors, frequently 800 Norse presence well marrying the daughters of established in Orkney other noblemen, or of the 841 founded 849, 852 Large fleets of Viking Scottish or Norwegian King. ships attacking Britain Their divided loyalties fre- c.880 King of quently caused problems, Norway expedition to west Replica longship “Gaia” in Bay which eventually led to the Rognvald of More Earl c.890 Rognvald s brother, carrying it, “there was no man Thorkel Fostri played an end of the Earldom. Sigurd the Mighty, Earl of who would bear the raven- important part in his power Orkney standard and the earl bore it struggle to become sole Earl. In the later 10th century Norse Torf Einar, youngest himself, and fell there.” His main opponent was son of Rognvald of More earl power in the west was at its Norse silver hoard found on Earl Thorfinn Skullsplitter Rognvald Brusison who had peak, with the conquest of m 937-954 Orkney used as base by u

Sigurd's son and successor, the support of the Norwegian e King Erik Blood-Axe Normandy, the discovery of s u c.950 Skaill hoard buried , King. Eventually after several America by Leif Erikson and M

y (found 1858) e

presided over the period of spectacular battles, house Norse migrations to northern n

k c.991 Sigurd the Stout earl r

maximum power and exten- burnings and escapades, and eastern . Many O 986-989 Sigurd gains domina- sion of the Orkney Earldom. Rognvald was cornered on hoards of valuables were hid- tion in the west marries daughter Thorfinn was a close relative Papa at Yule 1046 of Malcolm II of Scotland den either by locals fearing 995 King Olav of Macbeth and the Scottish and killed by Thorkel Fostri. Viking attack, or by Vikings Tryggvesson converts Sigurd author, Dorothy Dunnet, has themselves for safekeeping. c.1000 Discovery of Vinland even suggested that they may By this time Thorfinn was said some have since been found, (America) Burray hoard buried found 19thc have been the same person! to control nine Earldoms from such as those at Skaill, Burray, 1014 Battle of Clontarf He was brought up in the his base in Birsay where he Burgar and Caldale. Sigurd killed Scottish Court by his grandfa- presided over a lavish house- Thorfinn the Mighty ther, Malcolm II, who granted hold. He was to rule his earl- Lead weights from the Scar boat burial, Sanday maximum power period In addition the climate was c.1035 Caldale hoard hidden him the Earldom of Caithness doms peacefully for another considerably better than today, EARLY NORSE SITES (found 1774, now lost) and Sutherland. 18 years, during which he by 1042 In control of west greatly facilitating sea voy- TO VISIT made a pilgrimage to Rome in ages in open boats. Orkney again 1046 Death of Earl His foster father and mentor 1049-50, after which the first Viking tradition was that after Kirkwall Old St Olaf’s Kirk Birsay Brough of Birsay Rognvald Brusison The of Burgar in Evie was the site of a hoard of silver, now lost the crops were sown a Spring The Palace area c.1065 Death of Thorfinn the cruise was made, while later Skaill area Mighty, Joint Earls Paul I & Brough of Deerness Erlend II on after harvest a second Steatite fishing weights Rousay Westness 1066 King Autumn cruise followed. The monastery killed at Stamford Bridge Steatite bowl late 20th century definition of a Westray Quoygrew 1098 King Magnus cruise is slightly different from Tuquoy Barelegs expedition to west, that of our Viking ancestors! Deaths of Paul & Erlend Sanday Scar Pool S RonaldsayHowe of Hoxa Kirk Hope

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NORSE ORKNEY - 1100 TO 1468 HISTORY & ARCHAEOLOGY

About 1152 a group of lect taxes and administer the Vikings returning from the sequestrated estates on behalf Crusades left a spectacular of the king. More seriously collection of runic graffiti in Shetland was from now , thus greatly administered directly from adding to the interest of the Norway, while the Earl, monument for today’s visitor. Harald Maddadson had to In addition to runes, they give an oath of fealty to carved a dragon (claimed by Sverre. Thus Orkney, and some to be a lion, but most even more Shetland, became people think it is a dragon) and much more strongly under the other carvings which have control of Norway. provided much inspiration to 20th century artists. The situation was further com- plicated when the Scottish With the death of the Ultimate King, William the Lion, took Viking, Sweyn Asleifson, at advantage of the situation by St Magnus Kirk on dates from the 11th century Dublin on a raid in 1171, the invading Caithness. The The 12th century saw the mar- , com- independent power of the result was that the Earldom tyrdom of Earl Magnus, fol- menced in 1137 by Earl Earldom of Orkney was com- lost its Scottish lands but had lowed by a pilgrimage to the Rognvald, in memory of his ing to a close. In 1193 a fleet to submit also to the King of Holy Land by his cousin, Earl martyred uncle Magnus, is manned by the Island Scots. On the death of Harald Beardies, many of the leading Maddadson, himself three- Haakon Paulson, the instigator much the most spectacular The “Maeshowe Dragon” was carved about 1152 by returning Crusaders of his death. On his return Norse structure in Orkney. men from Orkney and quarters Scottish, in 1206, over 100 ships intent on the Battle of , but the Haakon built the St Nicholas There are many other remains, Shetland, invaded Norway Norse power was nevertheless reasserting Norse power in the main culprit was the arrival of Round Church in , such as parts of the Bishop’s with the support of the Earl. on the wane . The first west of Scotland and the a sudden severe gale during beside the Earl’s Bu with its Palace in Kirkwall, and the They were roundly defeated at Scottish Earl, albeit with Hebrides. The fleet mustered which the fleet was scattered famous drinking hall. He was Norse secular buildings and the Battle of Florvag in 1194 strong Norse connections, was at Elwick Bay in and some vessels damaged. succeeded by his son Paul in church at the Brough of near by King Sverre Magnus II, in c.1233. before heading out into the Haakon retreated to Orkney to 1123, who in turn was suc- Birsay. Of the several other Sigurdsson. Pentland from St regroup, but took ill and died ceeded in 1135 by Earl 12th century churches, the In 1262 Norway annexed Margaret’s Hope bound for in the Bishop’s Palace at Yule. Rognvald Kolson, nephew of ruins at Westness in Rousay The estates of those involved Iceland and Greenland and in the Clyde. He was temporarily buried in Magnus during whose time and Eynhallow Monastery are were taken by the Norwegian late Summer 1263 King St Magnus Cathedral before Orkney continued to flourish. particularly evocative. Crown, and a Royal Haakon Haakonson arrived in Sysselman appointed to col- Orkney with a large fleet of There was an indecisive skir- being returned to Bergen in mish, now called by the Scots 1264.

St Magnus cenotaph, Egilsay The Orphir Round Kirk was built by Earl Hakon about 1122 Crusader’s cross in Maeshowe Jarl’s Squad at Langskaill, , home of Sweyn Asleifson

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NORSE ORKNEY - 1100 TO 1468 HISTORY & ARCHAEOLOGY

Henry was not only expected LATE NORSE to defend Orkney from attack, TIMELINE 1100 to 1468 but also Shetland. In addition 1102 Bishop William installed he was expected to provide c.1104 Earls Haakon & Magnus ships and men to the c.1105 Magnus marries Ingarth, a Scottish noble woman Norwegian King on demand. 1116/1117 Martyrdom of Magnus c.1120 Haakon to Rome & Jerusalem Increasing Scots influence and c.1122 St Nicholas Round Church 1123 Death of Haakon, Earl Paul II a steady influx of lowland 1135 Earl Rognvald takes over th Scots during the 15 century 1137 St Magnus Cathedral started gradually eroded the old c.1140 First Orkney and the 1151 Consecration of St Magnus 1150/51 Maeshowe runes carved , the last known c.1151/3 Rognvald at Crusades & official Norse document being Rome Cubbie Roo’s Castle on Wyre Christmas tree lighting ceremony, the tree is donated annually by dated 1425. With the takeover 1158 Death of Rognvald, Harald By the in 1266 pounded by the death soon Maddadson sole Earl of Norway by Denmark, the 1171 Death of Sweyn Asleifson Norway resigned all of the after of the mother. Norse interest in the Northern 1192 Rognvald canonised Hebrides and the , Eventually the success of Isles further reduced, particu- 1194 Battle of Florvag but only on condition that Robert the Bruce and the mar- larly as the connection had 1195 Florvag settlement 1190s Norway retained Orkney and riage of his sister, Isabella, to Threats from Scottish crown always been with Western against Caithness Shetland. The agreement was King Erik were to greatly set- Norway, rather than with 1206 Earl Harald, succeeded by sons that the Scots would purchase tle relations for some time. Denmark. John & David Strong the Hebrides for 4,000 merks c.1231 Murder of John last Norse Earl 1232 Loss at sea of heads of some of plus an annual payment there- The Scottish Earls continued When the daughter of the Orkney’s leading families after in perpetuity of 100 to have very strong ties with Danish King was to marry the c.1233 First Scottish Earl Magnus II merks. This “Annual of Norway, but their twin loyal- Scottish King in 1468, the 1248 King of Isle of Man drowned at Sumburgh Röst with bride Norway” was to be handed ties often caused them prob- Danes had no compunction th 1256 Magnus III over in St Magnus Cathedral lems. During the 14 century about using Orkney, which 1263 Annexation of Iceland and each year. they gradually lost power and had been Norway’s closest A “Tog” is held every year in Kirkwall on Norwegian National Day(17 May) Greenland by Norway influence as the nation states 1263 colony, as a guarantee for the Relatively few excavations a constant reminder of our of Norway and Scotland grew. 1266 Settlement of Perth dowry - which has never been have been made at Viking Norse heritage. Local bird 1290 Margaret dies (Maid of However, in about 1379 the paid. Thus ended ignomin- sites in Orkney. Sadly so far names are particularly pre- Norway), daughter of King Erik very colourful 1292 King Erik remarries to iously over 600 years of Norse only a few of the recently served in common usage. became Earl and is reputed to Isabella sister of Robert the Bruce rule of the islands. excavated artefacts are on dis- 1321 Angus line of Earls ends have held a remarkably afflu- play in Orkney and even fewer c.1336 First Sinclair Earl Malise ent court at Kirkwall Castle. 1349 Plague in Norway & Orkney of these sites are on display to LATE NORSE SITES 1379 Earl Henry Sinclair I the last The Earl’s Bu in Orphir, near the Round Kirk visitors. Worse still, much TO VISIT Viking Earl Memorial to King Haakon earlier work was poorly 1398 Expedition to America Kirkwall St Magnus recorded and has never been 1400 Earl Henry II first Scottish Norwegian- Scottish connec- Bishop’s Palace nobleman Earl reported on. Many artefacts Firth tions were strengthened by the 1425 Complaint of the People of found last century simply dis- Orphir Round Kirk & Bu Orkney against David Menzies marriage of Alexander III’s Maeshowe appeared, or are of unknown 1420 Thomas Tulloch Bishop & daughter to King Erik of Tingwall Scottish commissioner runs Earldom provenance. St Thomas’s Kirk 1425 Last Norse official document Norway, but the accidental Rousay Westness death of the former and the sad 1433 Earliest Scottish charter Despite this lack of tangible Wyre Cubbie Roo’s Castle 1434 Earl William Sinclair death of their daughter, the Egilsay St Magnus Church evidence, the wealth of Old 1461 Raid by Scottish & Irish on Maid of Norway, on her way Westray Quoygrew Orkney much damage Norse language in the place- Papay St Boniface Kirk to become Queen of Scotland 1468 Impignoration names and in the words still in Gairsay Langskaill 1470 James III buys earldom from was a severe setback, com- current usage by Orcadians is Earl William end of Norse Earldom

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NORSE ORKNEY - CHURCHES HISTORY & ARCHAEOLOGY

states of ruin. Some of these are in turn built on top of much more ancient chapels. Other churches have been rebuilt, often several times, and contain the foundations or some of the walls of much more ancient structures.

In many cases churches have been rebuilt several times on the same site, so that little now remains of the Norse or Apse of Orphir Round Kirk Chapel on the Brough of Birsay earlier buildings. However a remarkable number of in new St Olaf’s on Dundas churches remain substantial- Crescent A tomb- ly intact. To date only one stone from the graveyard is (St Boniface on Papay) has now in the Orkney Museum. been renovated fully. Orphir St Nicholas Round Kirkwall St Magnus Church was built by Earl Cathedral, is of course, Hakon Paulson on his return much the most spectacular from Jerusalem about 1122, of all the Orkney Norse probably next to his skali, or churches. However to get a drinking hall, at the Bu in fuller picture of Late Norse Orphir. The apse is all that The choir is the oldest part of St Magnus Cathedral Orkney it is really necessary now remains of the only sur- Possible foundations of Christ Church under modern St Magnus Church Papa Names The Papa reused. Whichever is true, to visit some of the earlier viving round church from The Bishop’s Palace and “Mons Bellus” stone are names may attest to the pres- the many symbol stones and sites. St Olaf’s was the first this time in Scotland. Church were most likely in very suggestive of this. ence of Christian sites in ancient chapel sites suggest Viking church in Kirkwall, the vicinity of the present St Orkney when the Norsemen that Christianity was well and was probably built by Birsay was the main seat of Magnus Church and later Deerness A hogback tomb- first arrived. Alternatively established here during Earl Rognvald Brusison the Earldom and Bishopric, Earl’s Palace. The discovery stone dating from the 11th or they may date from the 11th Pictish times. about 1035. All that remains at least during the time of of very substantial red sand- 12th century, which was or 12th century, when pre- today is an archway in St Thorfinn the Mighty (999- stone foundations under this found in the graveyard is Norse sites may have been However the invading Norse Olaf’s Wynd and an aumbry 1064). Much of the exten- church, as well as the now kept inside the Skaill had no respect for these sive ruins on the Brough of Birsay probably date from Aumbry from Old St Olaf’s Kirk institutions and probably Watergate arch, Bishop’s Palace took over their farms with- this time. They include a out paying much heed to the charming little chapel and a Papae, their religious arte- complex of buildings, some facts or special buildings. probably secular and others perhaps ecclesiastic. Later of course Christianity Hogback tombstone from Skaill, Deerness did reassert itself, perhaps initially by force, but later “Mons Bellus” stone from St Magnus Church, Birsay - now part of two lintels by the will of the common people.

There are several surviving Norse churches, in varying

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NORSE ORKNEY - CHURCHES HISTORY & ARCHAEOLOGY

Church This is one of five Kolbein Hruga, who lived at so far discovered in Orkney the Bu nearby and also built Cubbie Roo’s Castle. The Brough of Deerness, north of , has the Eynhallow The 12th century ruins of a Norse chapel and church on Eynhallow has several small houses. The extensive surrounding build- chapel is built on top of an ings. There was probably a older structure, which may monastery here in Norse be a Pictish chapel. A ram- times and the present ruins part protects the entrance to may well overly and earlier, this precipitous headland. Pictish religious site..

St Boniface Kirk on Papay was restored in the 1990s St Mary’s Chapel on Wyre may have been built by Kolbein Hruga Burray St Laurence Kirk Westray has evidence of has unusual sculpted sand- are both built on much older century and, though much considerable Norse settle- St Nicholas with several surrounding th stone door jambs and lintels foundations, the former repaired, parts of the now ment. There was a large Chapel dates from the 11 cells. th and may be on the site of a including a Pictish symbol dilapidated structure are cemetery in the dunes at and 12 centuries. It was much earlier chapel dedicat- stone as a lintel. The latter is very old. It was the main Pierowall. Lady Kirk, on recently excavated and was Stronsay There are several ed to the 7th century cleric on what may be the oldest church for the Westside until the shore nearby, was rebuilt shown to be built on top of a chapel sites on Stronsay, but th th th known as the “Apostle of the chapel site in Orkney and the 19 century clearances. in the 1600s on top of a 13th small 7 or 8 century only St Peter’s, west of Picts”. has an enigmatic “footprint” century Norse church. The Pictish monastery, which Whitehall still has substan- stone inside. Egilsay St Magnus Kirk Cross Kirk, on the shore consisted of a small chapel tial ruins visible. South Ronaldsay St Peter’s was built about 1136 on the near Tuquoy, has a largely and Old St Mary’s Churches Rousay St Mary’s Kirk at site of an earlier chapel intact apse and dates from th EARLY CHRISTIAN Swandro dates from the 12 where Magnus is reputed to th the 12 century. SITES TO VISIT have prayed before his mur- der. Its distinctive type of Kirkwall Old St Olaf’s Papay. St Boniface Church St Magnus Cathedral round tower is the only one th is originally 12 century, but Bishop’s Palace remaining in Orkney today, much altered over the years. Orphir St Nicholas Round but in the past churches at There is a 12th century hog- Stenness Stenness Kirk Deerness and Stenness had St Michael's Kirk back tombstone in the grave- Birsay St Magnus similar tall towers. yard and two Pictish cross Broch of Birsay slabs were also found here. “Mons Bellus” stones St Mary’s Wyre St Mary’s Chapel is The small chapel of St also from the 12th century St Andrew’s Tredwells is on a small Deerness Skaill - hogback and was probably built by island on the eponymous Brough of Deerness The monastery on Eynhallow probably dates from Norse times or earlier loch built on top of a broch. St Magnus Kirk, Egilsay Burray St Laurence S Ronaldsay St Peter’s Kirk St Laurence Kirk, Burray St Mary’s Kirk, Burwick, South Ronaldsay Cross Kirk at Tuquoy, Westray was largely demolished in the 18th century Old St Mary’s Kirk Hoy Osmondwall Rousay St Mary’s, Swandro Egilsay St Magnus Kirk Wyre St Mary’s Chapel Eynhallow Monastery Westray Cross Kirk, Tuquoy St Mary’s, Pierowall St Peter’s, Rapness Papay St Boniface St Tredwell’s Stronsay St Peter’s, Whitehall Kildinguie Papa StronsaySt Nicholas Shapinsay St Catherine’s, Linton

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HENRY ST CLAIR AND THE ZENO NARRATIVE OR THE LEGEND OF GLOOSKAP

went to Greenland with the In May 1398 Henry St Clair Orkney Bishop, during left for an expedition west, which time he surveyed but after passing the much of the southern coast. Faeroes, received a frosty On returning with the reception from the Bishop from Gardar, he Icelanders who refused to died, but his brother stayed supply water and provisions. on to take part in a remark- Ten days after departure able voyage across the from Iceland on a fair wind Atlantic. This voyage may land was reached to the have been inspired by a pre- west. probably Nova Scotia. vious expedition to Greenland and the Arctic by The Zeno Narrative an English geographer, describes a landscape very Nicholas of Lynne about like that of Louisburg, Cape 1360, which resulted in a Breton Island, where an book (Inventio Fortunatae) ancient cannon was discov- Replica “Aileach” in on its way to the Faeroes and a new map of the ered in 1849. This cannon is In 1365 the young Henry St were small cargo ships well- Atlantic (Pope Urban’s virtually identical to a 14th Clair and other knights suited for northern waters. map), the latter produced in century Venetian cannon assembled in Venice to go Venice in 1367 by the broth- now in the Naval Museum at on a crusade to Egypt, dur- In 1391 a Venetian ship ers Pizzigano. the Arsenale in Venice and ing which Alexandria was arrived with Nicolo Zeno, the implication is that it occupied. He also went to brother of Carlo Zeno (the At about this time also trade could only have been made Jerusalem and was subse- "Lion" of Venice who had between England and by Venetians, as no one else quently called "Henry the pioneered the use of cannon Iceland was increasing, with made guns like that. Holy" on his return to at the Battle of Chioggia). much export of dried fish Map of the North Atlantic said to be copied from “Inventio Fortunatae” Scotland. He had been left After a time his brother, and import of a wide range The story says that most of What is clear is that knowl- embroiled in local events to his father's estate at Rosslyn, Antonio, too joined him. of goods. English trade with his fleet returned home and edge of the Atlantic and possibly be able to mount near and in 1379 They could supply expertise Greenland was also develop- that Henry, Antonio and North America was far more another expedition to Nova became Earl of Orkney. that Henry lacked, such as ing. This in turn encouraged some of his men returned in widespread among seamen Scotia, and the small colony Thus Henry came into how to forge the new cannon pirates, who not only stole 1400, having repaired their in the 14th century than has was left to its own devices. wealth, power and contact for shipboard use, and they goods, but also traded in ships and built a new ship previously been realised by The foundations of with Venice. He also had the were familiar with the latest slaves, to operate in the area. locally. The Micmac historians. Portuguese, "Sinclair's Castle" are said to usual divided loyalties to navigational theories, instru- Indians have a legend about Venetian, Basque, Breton still be visible on a headland Norway, Orkney, Scotland ments and cartographic The story goes that some "Glooskap", who is said to and English fishermen, near Cape Caruso. and England. skills. The Zenos were a fishermen from Greenland, have sailed away home to traders and pirates were all wealthy Venetian family of fishing on the Grand Banks, the country of the east. interested in anything which Whether or not the tale has He appears to have been seafarers whose motive were caught in a storm and There are apparently a large could make money. It is not any truth in, it is quite clear well respected by Norse and would have involved trading driven far south, only to be number of "coincidences" in surprising that they did not that by the 1390s fishermen Scots, and by 1390 had a and the extension of state captured by Indians, to the Micmac tale, which tell the world much! did know about the Grand small fleet of vessels at his interests, including perhaps whom they taught the use of make it possible that Henry Banks and that the Orkney disposal to look after his piracy and slave trading. nets. Eventually one of the did really visit here. The Henry St Clair's son, also Earldom was quite capable earldom. He is said to have fishermen escaped and real Henry, however, did not Henry, was subsequently of mounting just such an had a decked longship for Henry is said to have made came in contact with Henry survive to develop his fledg- captured by the English in expedition. Whether Henry battle, two open galleys per- trips to Shetland and the St Clair. He may have ling colony as he was killed 1406, and Antonio Zeno ever did so is open to specu- haps like the Birlinn illus- Faeroes on behalf of the offered to act as pilot on an during an English raid on returned home to Venice. lation. trated here, and up to 10 Norwegian crown to collect expedition west, but he died Orkney shortly after his When finally released Earl small decked barks which rent, while In 1393 Nicolo before departure. return. Henry II was far too

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DERIVATION OF THE NAME “ORKNEY” HISTORY & CULTURE

The name “Orkney” derives Orks. The Vikings also referred mark and Ork probably means from ON Orkneyjar, Seal to Maeshowe as “Orkahowe”, “Sea Pig” which could mean Islands, however the “Ork” part suggesting is that “Orc” was the either a small whale or a seal. is much more ancient. totemic name of the inhabitants Wild Boars were never a major Diodurus Siculus, in about in former times and was recog- feature of Orkney but small 59BC, referred to Orkney as the nised as such by the Norse. cetaceans such as Orcas, “Orcades”, quoting from a Grampus, and other Dolphins, much earlier report by Pytheas In Old Irish Orcan means pig, Pilot Whales as well as Grey from about 320BC. Writing in however in Gaelic Orc also and Common Seals were prob- c.70AD, Pliny the Elder refers to a small whale or dol- ably even more numerous in referred to the “Orcades” and phin. In fact Pliny himself calls prehistoric times than now. stated that “Cape Orcas lies this kind of whale “orca”, and across the Pentland Firth from today the Orca or Killer Whale Seals or “Selkies”, (ON Selr, the Orcades...there are 40 (Orchinus Orca) is still fre- Seal), are also traditionally Orcades separated by moderate quently seen around Orkney. It respected and the subject of distances.” Cape Orcas is prob- should also be noted that in Old much folklore in Orkney. Thus ably Dunnet Head in Caithness. Norse Orkn refers to “a kind of the name Orkney or Orcades seal”. most likely always meant “Seal The Old Irish name for Orkney Islands” and the people were was Innse Orc, Isles of the The Vikings were nearer the thus “Orcs” or “Selkies”.

Modern Name Norse Name Derivation

Mainland Hrossey Horse Island (from its shape) Rousay Hrolfsey Rolf’s Isle Egilsay Egilsey Egil’s Isle or Church Isle Eynhallow Eyinhelga Holy Isle Wyre Vigr Spearhead-shaped Isle Gairsay Gareksey Garek’s Isle Westray Vestrey West Isle Papa Meiri Big Island of the Papar (priests) North Ronaldsay Rinansey Ringan’s Isle Sanday Sandey Sandy Isle Eiðey Isthmus Isle Stronsay Strjonsey Gain or Profit Isle, or Beach Isle Papa Stronsay Papey Minni Small Island of the Papar (priests) Shapinsay Hjálpandisey Helping Isle or Hjalpandi’s Isle Elliarvik Holm Elwick Bay or Cave (Hellia) Holm Damsay Daminsey Twin Isle (with Holm of Grimbister) Kolbeinsey Kolbein’s Isle Hoy Háey High Isle Walls Vágaland Land of Bays Flat-ey Flat Isle Fara Faer-ey Sheep isle Cava Kalf-ey Calf Isle Grímsey Grim’s Isle Burray Borgarey Broch Isle South Ronaldsay Rögnvaldsey Rognvald’s Isle Svíney or Swefney Swine Isle or Sweyn’s Isle Pentland Skerries Pettland-sker Pictland Firth Skerries

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ORKNEY PLACE NAMES HISTORY & CULTURE

The vast majority of place names in Orkney are derived from Old Norse, with a very few earlier elements. Orcadian pronunciation is distinctive, and is derived from the “Orkney Norn”. Gaelic influence never reached the islands, and despite the influx of people from other parts of Britain over the years, many of the old words have survived. This glossary includes many of the most common place name elements, but it is not exhaustive, and fuller details can be found by referring to the Further Reading section. References to many placenames is included in the text. The glossary is set out as follows:

Place name, prefix or suffix as in use today; Old Norse derivation, English translation

a, o, or; A, burn kir-, kirk-, -kirk; Kirkja, church aith; Eid, isthmus knap; Knapp, knob, hill-top ; Eyrr, gravel beach langa-, -land; Langr, long -back; Bakki, banks -lee; Hlith, slope barth; Barth; projecting headland ler-; Leir, clay berry; Berry, -ber; Berg, hill ling; Ling, heather bigging; Bygging, building mel-; Mel, sandbank, dunes -bister, -bist; bolstadr, farm, dwelling moul, mull; Muli, muzzle, lip breck-; Brekka, slope mous-, muss-, -mo; Mor, pl.mos, moor brett-; Bratt, steep muckle; Mykill, large, great brim; Brim, surf myre; Myri, wet meadow bring; Bringa, breast -ness; Nes, nose. point bro-; Bru, bridge nev; Nef, small headland bu, -by; Bu, Baer, farm noup; Gnup, peak -buster, -bister, -bist; Bolstadir, house noust; Naust, boat beaching-place -clett, cleat; Klett, low rock, stone-built house od-; Oddi, sharp point -croo; Kro, sheepfold oyce; Oss, burn-mouth cumla-, -cuml; Kuml, burial mound peerie, peedie; ??, small -dale, -dall; Dal, valley quholm; Hvamm, grassy slope deep-, jub-; Djup, deep -quoy; Kvi, cattle pen Evie; Efja, eddy ram-, ramn-; Hrafn, raven ey, ay, a; Ey, island -ret; Reyy, sheepfold far-; Faer, sheep ro-; Raud, red -fell, -fea, -fiold; Fjall, hill russ-; Hross, horse firth, -ford; , wide bay scap-; Skalp, ship foul; Fugl, bird seater, -setter, -ster; Setr, out-pasture furs-; Fors, waterfall selli-; Sel, setter hut garth; Garth, enclosure -shun; Tjorn, small loch geo-; Gja, chasm -skaill; Skali, hall, house -gill; Gil, narrow valley skel-; Skal, soft rock gloup; Glup, throat skerry; Sker, skerry gra; Gra, grey skip-; Skip, ship graenn; Graenn, green skippi-; Skipti, boundary grind; Grind, gate stack; Stakk, pillar rock grut-; Gryot, gravel sten-, -stain; Steinn, stone ho-; Ha, high -ster, -sta; Stadr, homestead hack-; Hagi, enclosed pasture stove; Stofa, house ham, hamn-; Hafn, harbour strom-; Straum, tide?stream hammar; Hammar, crag swart-;Svart, black -hellya; Hellir, cave -taing; Tangi, tongue -hellya; Hella, flat rock ting; , assembly hellya; Helgr, holy -toft, -taft; Thopt, site of dwelling hest; Hest, horse -ton, -town; Tun, enclosure holm; Holm, small island too; Thufa, mound hope; Hjop, shallow bay vel-, -wall; Vollr, valley -house,-ass; Ass, ridge voe, -wall; Vagr, bay howe, hox-; Haug, mound waith; Vath, ford hund; Hund, dog ward, wart; Varda, beacon hous-, -house; Hus, house watten; Vatn, water kame; Kamb, ridge wheetha-; Hvit, white -keld, kelda; Kelda, spring wick; , bay

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ORKNEY LANGUAGE SOME VERSE (AND WORSE)

S Lord's Prayer, recorded by Wallace on M N North Ronaldsay (18th century) The Bloody Orkneys, Cap H Blair RN. Favor i ir i chimeri. Helleut ir i nam thite, gilla cosdum thite cumma, veya thine mota vara gort o This bloody town's a bloody cuss -- yurn sinna gort i chimeri, ga vus da on da dalight No bloody trains, no bloody bus, brow vora, Firgive vus sinna vora sin vee firgive And no one cares for bloody us -- sindara mutha vis, lyv vus ye i tumtation, min In bloody Orkney. delivera vus fro olt ilt, Amen: or "On sa meteth vera." The bloody roads are bloody bad, But John, Robert Rendall The bloody folks are bloody mad, They'd make the brightest bloody sad, But John, have you seen the world, said he, In bloody Orkney. Train and tramcars and sixty seaters, Cities in lads across the sea – All bloody clouds, and bloody rains, Giotto’s tower and the dome of St Peter’s? No bloody kerbs, no bloody drains, The Council's got no bloody brains, No, but I’ve seen the arc of the Earth, In bloody Orkney. From the Birsay shore like the edge of a planet, And the lifeboat plunge through the Pentland Everything's so bloody dear, Firth? A bloody bob, for bloody beer, To a cosmic tide with the men who man it. And is it good? No bloody fear, In bloody Orkney. Cragsman’s Widow, R Rendall Tapestry by Leila Thomson for J&W Tait’s 125th anniversary He wis aye vaigan b’the shore, The bloody flicks are bloody old, An’ climman amang the craigs, The bloody seats are bloody cold, What is an Orcadian from the Storm GMB 1954 Swappan the mallimaks, You can't get in for bloody gold, First the aborigones Or taakan whitemaa aiggs. In bloody Orkney. That houked from the sand Then the Picts, It’s six year bye come Lammas, The bloody dances make you smile; Thoe small dark cunning men Sin’ he gaed afore the face, The bloody band is bloody vile; Who scrolled their history in stone… An’ nane but an aald dune wife It only cramps your bloody style And then the tigers from the east over sea, Wis left tae work the place. In bloody Orkney. The blond butchering Vikings, Whose last worry on sea or land Yet the sun shines doon on a’ thing, No bloody sport, no bloody games, Was purity of race, as they staggered couchwards The links are bonnie and green, No bloody fun, the bloody dames After a fill of ale. An’the sea keeps ebban an’flown- Won't even give their bloody names Finally, to make the mixture thick and slab, As though hid had never been. In bloody Orkney. The offscorings of Scotland, The lowliest pimps from Lothian and the Mearns Sanctuary, Allison Leonard Best bloody place is bloody bed, Fawning on the train of Black Pat, There is one place where I may lay my head: With bloody ice on bloody head, And robbing and raping ad lib, The inquiring mind from roving has returned You might as well be bloody dead, But that’s not all. Tired with the immortal passions of the dead. In bloody Orkney. For many a hundred ships have ripped their flanks The flame of intellect, a star that burned On Rora Head, or the Noup, Aeons afar, cold, clear and very bright, And Basque sailor lads and bearded skippers from Brittany All rayed with beauty in the dreaming dark, Tennyson Left off their briny ways to cleave a furrow Sinks with the constellations of the night Through Orkney crofts and lasses. Into perspective. Oh, the passing mark See what a lovely shell Not to speak of two world wars Of pain fades with all unimportant things Lying close to my foot… And hordes of English and Yanks and Italians and Poles Who took their stations here: Like an old unremembered fear. I shed What is it? A learned man Falseness. Alone I’ll take the path of kings By the day the guns, by nigh the ancestral box-bed. But at the journey’s end I’ll lay my head Could give it a clumsy name. Only this morning I delivered a bairn In that one place where I can be at rest- Let him name it who can, At Maggie O’Corsland’s Upon the healing quiet of your breast. The beauty would be the same. With a subtle silk-selling Krishna smile. Pictish brooch found at Westness, Rousay A fine mixter-maxter!

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ORKNEY PARISH NICKNAMES OR TOU-NAMES ORKNEY POPULATION

The people from each parish or island in Orkney have their own nickname or "tou-name”. Parish Max popn Max popn 1961 1981 1991 2001 The name probably derives from the township, or some aspect of life there. It has long been (year) (Number)census census census census the tradition that tou-names come from when St Magnus Cathedral was being built, but they could easily be much older. Generally amusing or mildly derogatory, they were used to refer Birsay & Harray 1861 2593 1390 1168 779 to individuals or groups who had come to help with the construction work. Eday 1851 947 198 147 166 121 Evie & Rendall 1851 1455 731 564 670 Until recently the names were in common use in the North and South Isles, especially at ferry Firth 1871 789 513 598 1088 times, when people would shout “Auks”, or “Limpets”, etc. as appropriate. In wartime the Holm 1881 1042 578 553 615 Isles steamer timetables used tou-names rather than island names to lend confusion to the Hoy, Graemsay & Flotta 1851 1841 685 660 605 494 enemy. Some parishes have two or more tou-names, one of which is often quite rude. Kirkwall & 1991 6881 5672 6881 7445 North Ronaldsay 1881 547 161 109 92 70 Orphir & Stenness 1851 1842 899 787 686 Birsay Dogs or Hoes Dogfish Papay 1861 392 139 91 85 65 Burray Oily Bogies or Bogglers skin bag used to store fish oil Rousay, Egilsay & Wyre 1841 1400 338 253 291 267 Deerness Skate Rumples Skate tails are useless Sanday 1881 2075 670 634 533 478 Eday Scarfs Cormorants Sandwick 1861 1225 832 777 779 Egilsay Burstin Lumps Corn dried in a kettle over a fire Shapinsay 1881 974 416 329 322 300 Evie Cauld Kail Perhaps suggesting dull and uninteresting South Ronaldsay & Burray 1881 3305 1248 1173 1306 1221 Firth Oysters The Bay of Firth was good for Oysters St Andrews & Deerness 1881 1788 859 733 754 Flotta Flukes or Grouties Flounders 1821 2944 1414 2160 2175 Gairsay Buckies or Kiddy Baas Whelks Stronsay 1871 1289 497 419 382 358 Graemsay Goslings or Limpets young geese or shellfish Westray 1881 2190 871 702 704 563 Harray Crabs only land-locked parish Holm Hobblers people who walk with a hobble Hoy Hawks or Tammienories Hawks or Puffins Orkney resident population 1861 32225 (Maximum) Longhope Whelks shellfish 1961 18650 Kirkwall Starlings or Scooties Large numbers roost in the town 1981 18419 N Ronaldsay Selkies, Tangie Wheesos or Hides Seals 1991 19612 North Spickoes Dogfish 2001 19245 Orphir Yirnings or Sheep Grippers Rennet, sheep grippers is unmentionable Papay Dundies thin or spent Cod The Stenness folk are known as Merry Dancers or Skeggs Rendall Sheep Thieves Rendall folk were said to be such Rousay Mares a Rousay man bought mares but no stallion Sanday Grulie Belkies fat bellies Sandwick Assie Pattles one who sits by the fire poking it Scapa Luggies Lug Worm Shapinsay Sheep following along like sheep on a path S. Ronaldsay Herston Hogs most probably Dogfish Grimness Gruties the land in Grimness is stony Sandwick Birkies lively folk St Mgts Hope Scooties Arctic Skua (Scootie Allan) South Parish Teeicks Lapwing Widewall Witches There were said to be many South Walls Lyres Manx Shearwater, or muddy people Stenness Merry Dancers or Skeggs Aurora Borealis Stromness Bloody Puddings Black Puddings Stronsay Limpets of sailors who “stuck to the pier like limpets” Tankerness Skerry Scrapers Shores are good for shellfish Westray Auks many auks nest on Noup Head Wyre Whelks shellfish which live on the shore

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UDAL LAW - THE OLD NORSE LEGAL SYSTEM HISTORY & CULTURE

Considerable amounts of hill land are still held in this ancient manner, which can cause problems for public bodies at times.

There was a policy on the part of the Scottish Crown to acquire the Udal rights to land, because although the had "abolished" Norse Law in 1611, this could not be retro- Burning kelp at Birsay spective. Indeed in view of the pawned nature of the Feudal Law, interest has landowner. Naturally the islands any Scottish Act over revived in the older laws. lairds used Udal Law to con- the Norse Law even now Udal Law still exists today, trol their lucrative Kelp- Kirkwall from Cromwell’s Fort may be in doubt. Steadily most apparent in the owner- making trade. ship of the coastline. Udal Law (ON , land About 1037 King Magnus ership of their land, with no Scots "landowners" acquired Whereas in the rest of Since the foreshore belongs held in allodial tenure), is The Good supervised the superior, gained by holding "ownership" of Udal lands Britain ownership of land to the adjacent landowner the ancient Norse system of codification of the old laws, the land over a number of by often dubious means, extends only to the High and is not Common Land, inheritance and law which which of course applied to generations, normally origi- until the Udallers were very Water mark, in Orkney and there is no absolute right of the Viking settlers brought Orkney and Shetland as part nally by settlement. This much reduced. Ironically Shetland this extends to the access to the inter-tidal zone wherever they settled. No of Norway. Later, in about land was held in (unwritten) this was eventually to lead to lowest Spring ebb, plus vari- in Orkney (or Shetland). trace remains of the previous 1274, King Magnus freehold, with no obligation the downfall of the incoming ously as far as a stone can be However traditionally no legal system, which no Lagabote (the Lawmender) except a duty to pay tax or laird class themselves. thrown, or a horse can be one objects to folk going doubt derived from the dis- was to go even further in skat to the king. The eldest waded, or a salmon net can along the shore. If in doubt tant past with influences revising and amending the son inherited the father's The fundamental difficulty be thrown. it is polite to ask. Norse from earlier incomers, such law to suit the much main residence, while the with Scotland was that the ownership of the sea and as the Picts, but in Orkney it changed times. rest of the property was King was nominally the This has enormous implica- seabed is claimed by some seems that that the Norse shared among siblings, owner of all of the land, tions to building work, to have extended out to the took total control of an exist- In essence Udal Law is total- daughters inheriting half as which was held by landlords inshore fisheries and piers. Marebekke - the edge of the ing pattern of settlement and ly different to as much as sons. Over the with the Crown as superior, Also anything arriving fortu- Continental Shelf - owner- then modified it. applied to property. years this led to an extreme and with services and pay- itously on the shore is tech- ship of fishing, sealing and Udallers have absolute own- fragmentation of land own- ments to be made, as well as nically the property of the whaling rights were and ership and, despite reform, a written title, whereas the Part of the Skaill Hoard, now in the National Museum of Scotland left Orkney wide open to Udal system was virtually Warebeth, Stromness with Hoy Sound and the Hoy Hills exploitation. the direct opposite. This remains incomprehensible In particular the fact that no to Edinburgh lawyers, well written documents were versed in Feudal Law but required to substantiate pos- not in Udal Law. After the session greatly confused the Impignoration the Udallers Scots. The lack of Title could no longer appeal to the Deeds was much used by King of Norway, and were Scottish "landlords" and thus exposed to abuse by the their lawyers, as one of the incoming Scots. However, means of grabbing lands now that the Scottish from the real owners. Parliament has abolished

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UDAL LAW - THE OLD NORSE LEGAL SYSTEM HISTORY & CULTURE

remain important. However authority over the intertidal this is a hotly debated issue zone in Orkney. The which is denied by many. Company had apparently even paid the Crown Although in 1468 Orkney Commissioners for a privi- and in 1469 Shetland were lege that they had no author- impignorated (mortgaged) ity to dispense when the to Scotland, and annexed in landowner realised that his 1472, there have been many rights had been infringed. confirmations of the recog- Thus state ignorance of Udal nition of "Norse Laws" law continues to this day. including by the Scottish The Crown had to admit the Parliament in 1567. Further, supremacy of Udal Law in Remains of the blockship “Collindoc”at Cara, South Ronaldsay Kirkwall shorefront was the site of recent application of Udal Law in 1667, the Treaty and this respect and refund their Peace of Breda confirmed When the owner of the a swan. The case went to the charges in favour of the While this may have held up Along with local concerns the right of redemption was Queens Hotel in High Court and the Crown actual landowner. the works, it also confirmed about the control of fishing unprescribed and thus argued that he owned the lost. Everywhere else in UK that Udal Law is alive and and fish farming, it seems unprescribable. foreshore, this was upheld in the Crown owned the Swans In 1990 the Court of Session well, at least in the case of that the Crown is going to 1903, when Lerwick - in Orkney they were, and ruled against Shetland the foreshore. have a hard time until a con- Various cases during the 19th Harbour Trustees claimed still are, the property of the Salmon Farmers Association stitutional settlement of and 20th centuries confirmed that they held the land under people as the Norwegian and Lerwick Harbour Trust There has been little change Orkney and Shetland's status the primacy of Udal Law in a Crown grant. A similar Crown never claimed such in their claim that the Crown in the attitude of Edinburgh is finally achieved - after certain instances, while oth- case in 1953 was won by the ownership. Nowadays we could not own the seabed lawyers in the last 600 years. well over 500 years of ers did not. Whereas owner- Trustees on the basis that the do not shoot swans, but the around the . They still treat Udal Law impignoration. ship of the foreshore seems property was feudal, a status principles of the old Norse The blatant farce of the with contempt, at their con- to be accepted, the position which applies to some Udal Law still stand. Crown ruling for itself was tinued peril! The current Orcadians and Shetlanders regarding the sea and seabed Shetland property. of course ignored by politi- debate about Udal Law has like to think that the class- is undecided. In all cases to Udal Law was invoked in a cians at the time. Lerwick been fired by the attempt of less society of today derives date the Scottish High Court One interesting anomaly is 1965 attempt to keep the St Harbour Trust in this case the Crown Estate to charge from the Udal tradition, has ruled that the Crown the Mute Swan. About 1910 's Isle Treasure in argued for Udal Law, a very large sums of "rent" for where every man is equal, owns these assets, but it is a Kirkwall lawyer was deter- Shetland when the Crown change of position from a new fibre optic cable but also every man has an hard to see how the Crown mined to prove that Udal claimed it as treasure trove. 1903 and 1953. which was to link Orkney equal duty to society. We morally can rule in favour of Law still had force, and Not unnaturally the Crown's and Shetland with Iceland may be a mixture of Norse, itself in such a case. accompanied by his friend, courts found in favour of More recently Udal Law and Scotland. The main Scots and others, but we are the , went itself, and now the Pictish again was invoked in result is that the cable now nevertheless independent by out to Harray Loch and shot silver languishes in Kirkwall by the owners of bypasses our islands. nature whateverway. Edinburgh, while visitors to Salmon farming has become an important part of the Orkney economy the foreshore below Shore Swans do not belong to the Crown in Orkney Shetland can only see pale Street when the Council imitations. decided to build a road along the foreshore. A similar sit- In the mid-1970s when the uation occurred more recent- Occidental Oil Company ly with the construction of was building its pipeline to an access road and breakwa- Flotta, it negotiated with the ter for the new Kirkwall Crown Estate for rights to marina, also by the Council. cross the foreshore at the In both cases the local th end of the 4 Churchill authority was forced to Barrier at Cara without real- negotiate with the (udal) ising that the Crown has no owners of the foreshore.

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ORKNEY FOLKLORE HISTORY & CULTURE

Orkney has a rich folklore resided on lovely green heritage that has its roots in islands that could be seen both the Celtic and floating on the sea. The king Scandinavian worlds. The of the Fin Folk put a curse Norsemen brought many of on the fishermen of their own customs to the Sandwick until he was killed islands where they were at the Bay of Skaill. Burnt mixed together with local stones can still be seen beliefs. A whole assortment where his body was cremat- of supernatural creatures ed. haunted both land and sea, and many tales concerning The Fin Folk’s women were them were told during win- mermaids. They were said There are many legends about seals or selkies as they are called in Orkney ter nights by the fire. to be the most beautiful creature ever created, Fairies in Orkney are called though not all stories claim trows, from the Old Norse that they had fishes’ tails. word troll. They lived in They would try to lure a mounds and would steal Human man to join them babies, leaving changelings under the sea and become in their place. They also their husband. If they mar- stole away mothers who had ried a Human they would just given birth, leaving an keep their beauty forever, object that magically resem- but if they married a Fin Dancing giants caught at sunrise became standing stones bled the dead woman. This man they would grow ugly. method was also used to caught and pulled to the sur- they threw at each other. A steal cattle and horses. face. Another mound group of dancing giants Selkie Legends Seals have Eynhallow is Orkney’s magical, disappearing isle dweller was the hogboon were turned to stone as they always been much liked by while the men are also very scaly. Interestingly there is They had a great love of who brought good luck to were caught in the rays of Orcadians, and although a physically attractive. never any suggestion of evil music, and there are tales of the farm. His reward was to the rising sun, and can still certain amount of hunting The seal-women bear beau- or bad intent with seal peo- people who entered their have offerings of food, milk be seen as the Ring of was always done in the past, tiful daughters. Sometimes ple, and seals have the repu- mounds to join a party and or ale poured over the Brodgar. The nearby Comet it was never judged to be unsatisfied Human wives tation of saving fishermen in never returned for a year or mound where he lived. Stone was the fiddler. good luck to kill one. There may also take seal-men. It is distress, sometimes with a more. There were also sea are many variations on the said that the issue of such deal being made about the trows who stole the fish Attempts at bridge building The sea was ruled by spirits selkie story, where a man unions are recognisable by return of their seal-wife to from fishermen’s hooks, by giants were pointed out, who could bring calm or may take a seal-wife, by their features, and especially her own kind. sometimes they too were as were the huge rocks that cause storms. The evil stealing her skin and hiding by their skin, which may be Nucklavee was the most ter- Hogboons and trows lived in mounds such as Maeshowe it while she is ashore. Fin Folk put a curse on fishermen at the Bay of Skaill rifying of all the supernatu- ral creatures. He was like a They make exceptionally large man that had no skin, fine wives, but always pine and he rode on a horse as for the sea and frequently hideous as himself as he escape back to it when they looked for victims along the find their skins. It is said shore. that when the seals come ashore they remove their Fin Folk lived under the sea skins to reveal a human in a beautiful city called form. The women are Finfolkaheem. They also exceptionally beautiful,

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ORKNEY FOLKLORE HISTORY & CULTURE

was dropped into the tub and the finder would be the next to marry. On the wedding day the party left the bride’s house in pairs and walked to the church. I t was good luck if the wedding walk crossed running water on their way to the church, but bad luck if they met a funeral party.

Guns were fired to frighten off the trows, while the per- son at the end of the line, The wedding walk from the bride’s home to the kirk was an important part of the proceedings known as the tail sweeper, Thus when listening to the people who had to roam the and dance on the shore in dragged a brush behind him plaintive calls of the Grey seas as seals. Others say that their human form. to hide their tracks from evil Standing stone with a hole Beggars sold prophecies for food Seal always remember that they were angels cast from spirits. Feasting and danc- rest. Daily life, work and can still find many surviving you may be listening to a Heaven, but not evil enough Birth, marriage & death ing went on all night, the festivals had their customs, to the present day. seal-man or his lovely seal- to be sent to Hell. They Every stage of life was gov- dancers went with the course and if you look closely you wife! Selkie folk were said could take off their sealskins erned by a set of rules that of the sun (clockwise). Stromness Distillery suggests that its product might even make the wife like boats! to be the souls of drowned at certain times of the tide had to be obeyed to ensure a Cogs of ale were passed happy life. This was espe- around all night, the last cog cially true for births, mar- contained a mixture of hot riages and deaths. When a ale and spirits, sweetened woman was pregnant she and spiced, called the bride’s would often avoid going out cog. It is still used in Orkney to ensure that the trows did weddings to this day. not find out, as they might change the child. When a person died it was bad luck to speak their name The baby’s first drink had to before they were buried. be off silver to ensure Cats and mirrors were wealth. If a silver spoon was removed from the house, not available, then a silver and a candle or lamp was There was much superstition about wells - nearly all brochs have one coin was placed in the left burning in the room that The work of the blacksmith was filled with folk tales spoon. The drink was nor- contained the body. An open mally warm water, sugar and Bible helped to ward off spirits, usually whisky. A evil, while a watch, called a child’s fingernails could not “leek-wak”, was carried out be cut with scissors as this night and day by the family would mean that it would and friends of the deceased. grow up to be a thief. They had to be bitten off instead. The coffin was carried to the kirkyard, but it could never Before a woman was mar- touch the ground, as this was ried she had her feet washed bad luck. There were low in a large tub of water by her stone walls at regular inter- unmarried friends. A ring vals so the bearers could

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THE SCOTTISH CONNECTION HISTORY & CULTURE

is no evidence for this. The The transfer of the Bishopric issue was brought up many from in Norway to times subsequently by St Andrews in 1472, and Denmark, but always reject- later the Reformation further ed by Scotland, which broke the connection with claimed that title had passed Norway. The presentation over due to the long period during the Cathedral's 800th of occupation and adminis- anniversary, by the Bishop tration from Edinburgh. The of Nidaros, of a Statue of St fact remains that the impig- Olav, shows that connec- noration has never been dis- tions remain, in spirit at

Earl’s Palace, Birsay in the late 16th century charged and that the agree- least. Broad Street, Kirkwall about 1780 ment expressly states the Impignoration By the lat- was the "Annual" abolished, 1528, where the son of the would have surpassed intention that Denmark The oldest surviving rental ter part of the 13th century, and all the arrears due by previous Earl, another Kirkwall for architectural would do so. Thus the con- (ON riggarental, the runrig Norway was part of Scotland to Denmark can- William Sinclair, enlisted elegance, which sounds like stitutional position of the system of land division) Denmark, under King celled in the marriage settle- the help of the Lord of a polite exaggeration. islands remains unsettled to records date from Henry Sr Christian I. The annuity for ment, but also the young Caithness. The Caithness James' pilot, Lindsay, drew this day. Clair’s detailed survey of the Hebrides, the "Annual of princess was to bring a men were roundly defeated, up a detailed nautical chart 1492 and provide a fascinat- Norway", agreed at the dowry of 60,000 florins of but the feud was not and pilot of the islands for King James did not delay in ing insight into the pattern of treaty of Perth in 1266, had the Rhine. Since Denmark resolved. the first time. securing his position. In land tenure at the time. At not been paid by the Scots could only pay 10,000 at September 1470 he and Earl for about 200 years. After once, Orkney was to be held In 1567 the Scottish William Sinclair exchanged long, and at times acrimo- in pawn (sub firma hypothe- Parliament ruled that by excambion the lands of nious, negotiations, Charles ca et pignore) by the Orkney & Shetland should Ravenscraig in for VII of was asked to Scottish Crown until the bal- be subject to and enjoy their Kirkwall Castle and the arbitrate. He suggested a ance was paid. After a year 'own' Udal Law rather than Earldom lands held under Royal marriage between only 2,000 more was forth- Scots Law. In 1575-7 the the King (et toto jure ejus Margaret, daughter of King coming, so Shetland was Orkney Lawbook was pro- comitatus orchadie). Earl Armorial panel above Tankerness House doorway Christian of Denmark, and also pawned (impignorated) duced for the Scots Privy Sinclair however retained the future James III of on 20 May 1469. James V came to Orkney in Council, its last recorded his "conquest" lands in this time the traditional Udal Scotland. 1540, and was surprised to sighting. From now on Orkney, which he or his practices were giving way to Although it has been find that the islands were in Scottish influence gradually ancestors had acquired by something more like the rest The contract of marriage claimed that the right to a state of some civilisation. eroded the Udal Law, and purchase or other means of Scotland as the majority was finally agreed on 8 redeem the islands was dis- Indeed it was said that very the Old Norn language as over the years. of the land was now held September 1468. Not only charged at some time, there few 16th century towns Orkney was steadily assimi- either by the Scottish Crown Kirbister Loch, Orphir - site of the Battle of Summerdale is in the background In May 1471 the Act of or Scottish Church, and thus Earl’s Palace, Kirkwall, built about 1600, abandoned about 1720 Annexation to Scotland was most farmers were tenants. passed. The Bishopric in turn leased the Earldom Henry St Clair, was killed at lands, and in 1486 the Flodden in 1513, and was Corporation of the Royal succeeded by the locally- Burgh of Kirkwall was con- elected Sir William Sinclair stituted. Care of the of Warsetter, Sanday. Cathedral was handed to this Sinclair family feuding new body. A schoolmaster between the Caithness and was appointed and the Town Orkney family branches House now assumed impor- resulted in the Battle of tance for a time. Summerdale in Orphir in

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