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Home , Bishop of Orkney, Deerness, Eynhallow Sound, Finstown, Houton, James Haldane

THE KIRK IN THE GARDEN OF EVIE

A Thumbnail Sketch of the History of the Church in Evie

Trevor G Hunt

Minister of the linked Churches of Evie, Firth and ,

First Published by Evie Kirk Session Evie, Orkney. 1987

Republished 1996

ComPrint, Orkney 908056

Forward to the 1987 Publication

This brief history was compiled for the centenary of the present Evie Church building and I am indebted to all who have helped me in this work. I am especially indebted to the Kirk’s present Session Clerk, William Wood of Aikerness, who furnished useful local information, searched through old Session Minutes, and compiled the list of ministers for Appendix 3. Alastair Marwick of Whitemire, Clerk to the Board, supplied a good deal of literature, obtained a copy of the Title Deeds, gained access to the “Kirk aboon the Hill”, and conducted a tour (even across fields in his car) to various sites. He also contributed valuable local information and I am grateful for all his support. Thanks are also due to Margaret Halcro of Lower Crowrar, Rendall, for information about her name sake, and to the Moars of Crook, Rendall, for other Halcro family details. And to Sheila Lyon (Hestwall, Sandwick), who contributed information about Margaret Halcro (of the seventeenth century!).

TREVOR G HUNT Manse March 1987

Foreword to the 1996 Publication

Nearly ten years on seemed a good time to make this history available again, and to use the advances in computer technology to improve its appearance and to make one or two minor corrections.. I was also anxious to include the text of the history as a page on the Evie, Firth and Rendall Churches’ Internet site for reference and, since revision was necessary to do this, it was an opportunity to republish in printed form. TREVOR G HUNT Finstown Manse August 1996

THE KIRK IN THE GARDEN OF EVIE A Thumbnail Sketch of the History of the Church in Evie

VIE HAS NOT featured prominently in recorded history, but has, rather, contented itself to get on with ordinary Eliving. Evie consists of three distinct districts: Inner Evie (Woodwick, Aikerness, Redland, Georth and Stenso); Outer Evie (from the Woo burn to Burgar); and Costa. An earth dike, the "Hill Dike", once extended along the whole west side of the parish from Rendall to Costa Hill, and remains of it can still be seen. Last century, in common with other parishes, each of Evie's districts were divided into townships. The "toon o' Aikerness", for example, consisted of Aikerness farm and the cot houses of Lawgae, Henley, Robert Hutchins, both the Wades, Kirkpretty, Stymbroo and Breck. Redland township, a district now hardly recognised by the name, consisted of Flaws, Niggly and Quoys. Other townships included Georth, Stenso and Howe. 1

Old Evie There are a number of sites in Evie which show evidence of pre- historic occupation to about 6,000 years ago. The of Gurness (which contained remains from the Iron Age), at Aikerness, is one such place. The Broch of Burgar is another, although a human skeleton found there in 1825 appears to have been that of a comparatively modern person. Other brochs, and ancient sites can be found on Ordnance Survey maps of the area. 2

Abundant Corn The medieval history, , names the stretch of water between the island of and the Evie coast, Efjusund (Evie Sound). The word, Efja , means a bay

1 James Omond, Orkney Eighty Years Ago (With Special Reference to Evie), (: Kirkwall Press, 1980 [1911]), pp.8ff. 2 See Appendix 1 for a list of sites and Ordnance Survey Grid References.

2 THE KIRK IN THE GARDEN OF EVIE THE KIRK IN THE GARDEN OF EVIE 3 of tide-less water, according to The Third Statistical Account .3 the wisp", the spontaneous combustion of methane gas from This is an accurate description of the bay of Evie which lies decaying vegetation. If something like 70 tons of kelp a year inside the strong currents that run in the "Burgar röst" of was being produced from the sea weed, as it was in the Eynhallow Sound. The aiker in Aikerness also refers to a tide eighteenth century, 9 this could have been the source of the gas. race. 4 Even sea weed washed ashore in large quantity after recent Towards the end of the sixteenth century Evie was described gales might account for it. However, George Low says that by as "another parish where whales freely enter. Here there is the time he visited Evie (1778), it had "lost the faculty of great abundance of corn". 5 The abundance of corn was shining in the night time!". 10 Although Wallace had not seen confirmed by George Low when he visited Evie in 1778. He also the lights himself, he believed we should not doubt they were describes how the farm houses were close together and that sea really seen. If they did exist, "will o' the wisp" might explain the weed, or "tang", mixed with dung was used for manure. 6 Evie lights in the hills, but what were the mysterious lights in the seemed noticeably more fertile than other parts of the Mainland Kirk? It has been suggested that about that time the youths of and still remains agriculturally good. In the Third Statistical held their Yule festival in the Kirk there, and a similar Account it is called the "Garden of Orkney". custom may have been practised in Evie. But if the lights were Hugh Ross refers to the fields not being enclosed during the caused by those attending such a festival, then this surely eighteenth century. He also describes how the Orkney side- would have been well known. It could have been that some plough was then used. It had one stilt and was drawn by three pious Roman Catholics had secretly entered the church for or four small horses abreast. This was considered to be quite mass and their lighted tapers had been seen. Maybe the moon adequate for the well-worked soil and trials with a two stilt reflected from the glass of the windows, making the church plough did not produce any better results. 7 appear to be on fire. Because of superstitious dread not many James Wallace, a seventeenth century minister of Kirkwall, people would have been brave enough to enter the kirkyard to tells how that Evie's small hillocks near the sea frequently investigate. None of these explanations, however, seem to be appeared to be on fire at night. He describes the Kirk of St. totally adequate and the exact cause of these lights remains a Nicholas as being full of light, too, "as if torches or candles were mystery. burning in it all night". 8 Wallace explained these phenomena Howana Gruna, the mound on the west of Burgar Hill, has an as coming from, "some thick glutinous Meteor that receives that association with witches, according to local lore. 11 In 1864 a light in the Night time." This could be a reference to the "will o' woman's clothed body was discovered buried in the peat nearby. There is a story that she was a Rendall girl who was 3 Compiled mss by Dr A J Campbell (late minister of Evie) and supplementary murdered by two witches, tried in the Wallhouse of St. Magnus notes from Thomas G Tait (minister of Rendall) , "The United Parishes of Evie Cathedral in 1633. However, the clothing on the body, and Rendall" in Ronald Miller (ed.), The Third Statistical Account of - preserved by the peat, was commonly worn by women from 100 The County of Orkney (: Scottish Academic Press, 1985). to 300 years before she was found and no certain date can be 4 Idem . given as to when she died. Besides, Rendall is a good way off 5 Jo[hn] Be[llende]n's description quoted by John Fraser, "The Antiquities of Evie Parish" in Proceedings of the Orkney Antiquarian Society (Kirkwall, from Howana Gruna and it is difficult to see why a Rendall 1929), Vol. VII p.41. woman would have been in so remote a place and that far from 6 George Low, "Tour through the North Isles and Parts of the Mainland of home. Orkney in the Year 1778" in Alfred W Johnston and Amy Johnston (eds.), Old-Lore Miscellany of Orkney, , and Sutherland (: Viking Society for Northern Research, 1920), p.135. 7 Hugh Ross in the description of Evie in Sir John Sinclair (ed.), The Statistical 9 Ross, op. cit. , p.32. Account of Scotland (1791-1799) (Wakefield: EP Publishing, 1978), pp.74ff. 10 Low, op. cit. , p.135. 8 James Wallace, Description of the Isles of Orkney (Edinburgh: William 11 See W R Macintosh (compiler), Around the Orkney Peat Fires (Kirkwall: Brown, 1883 [1693]), p.32. Kirkwall Press, 1975), pp.188ff.

46 THE KIRK IN THE GARDEN OF EVIE THE KIRK IN THE GARDEN OF EVIE 5

Christianity in Orkney long and 5½ meters wide (24 feet by 18 feet). The door was in the west end, with a window in the east, but without an apse Christianity seems to have come to the peoples of Orkney (semicircular recess). Remains of a burial ground around the around the late 6th or early 7th centuries. 12 However, few building are evident, although part of the north side has been Pictish remains show Christian influence. But small iron Celt washed away by the sea. Last century, skeletons were exposed church bells have been found, together with stone crosses and after a storm and very high tides. The building was probably symbol stones. 13 There may have been a monastery on the used until the Reformation and the kirkyard for some years Brough of , and burials there, without cremation, suggest after. 17 Near the Kirk a cairn once existed which may have been Christian influence. Burial in cemeteries, without any the remains of the priest's house. 18 accompanying goods, also add weight to that suggestion. 14 No remains of St. Nicholas Chapel [Grid Reference: Norse occupation of Orkney from around 800 AD may not NY379264] are now visible. It was located about the middle of have destroyed Christianity in the Islands. the churchyard near Aikerness. Some of the stones for the dike believed that there is strong evidence of this in such names as around the churchyard may have come from the old building. Papa and Papa and Papdale (Valley of Papae). As the Parish Church of Evie it was a poor, small place. It The Papae were Christian priests. These islands still seemed to needed to be thatched with straw annually, but the building have retained sanctity in Norse times. Names such as Kirk- was so dilapidated by 1788 that it had to be abandoned. bister, a farm with a church, and even the name which Shortly afterwards, on a Sunday, the walls collapsed altogether. may have come from the Latin ecclesia , also support this The ruin was then put up for auction, 19 but it is not likely that 15 view. But, as Howie Firth has pointed out, as religious what remained was of much use. Two oak pin relics from the sanctuaries and may have been old chapel were still preserved earlier this century. They were 16 less disturbed by the Norse influence than elsewhere. revered as the pegs on which the minister always hung his hat! 20 The church building, now used by Rosie's Coaches, was Evie's Three Kirks the site of the new Kirk of St Nicholas until Christianity gained strength again around the beginning of the union with the, then, United Free Church of Scotland, in the 11th century. At least three places of worship are known to 1930. The new St Nicholas was to serve both Evie and Rendall have existed in Evie before the Reformation. St Peter's Kirk in and was built on a site regarded as central to the two parishes. Costa was one. St Nicholas Chapel at Aikerness, and the Kirk of It cost £156 to build. When the old church was abandoned, Norrisdale in Woodwick were the other two. Some local services were only held in Rendall until October 1794. From historians doubt if the latter was in fact any more than a place that date, Hugh Ross, the minister of the two parishes, gave up frequented by a monk or hermit, though. Place-names suggest taking services in that building because of poor health. 21 other possible sites, but nothing else is known. The Kirk of Norrisdale [Grid Reference: NY374228], or St Peter's Kirk [Grid Reference: HY338287], the ruins of Norrensdal, was sited on the south bank of the Woodwick burn, which are still visible, stood east-west. It was about 7¼ meters about a mile from the present road and the same from the old boundary dike. Although Woodwick House would have been a 12 F T Wainwright, `The Scandinavian Settlement' in F T Wainwright, The more likely site for a chapel, it is only the moor-land location , (Edinburgh, 1962), pp.117-162. Quoted by John W Hedges, which is mentioned by tradition. This remoteness has led local `From the First Inhabitants to the Viking Settlement' in R J Berry and H N Firth (eds.), The People of Orkney , (Kirkwall, 1986), p.30. 13 Hugh Marwick, Orkney , (London: Robert Hale, 1951), p.105. 17 Fraser, op. cit ., p.43. 14 Berry and Firth, op. cit. , p.31. 18 Ibid. , p.45 15 Hugh Marwick, op. cit ., pp.37, 104ff - see also F T Wainwright, op. cit ., 19 Ross, op. cit .. p.162. 20 Fraser, op. cit ., p.43 16 Howie Firth, `Traditions and Customs', in Berry and Firth, op. cit. , p.149 21 Ross, op. cit. .

8 THE KIRK IN THE GARDEN OF EVIE THE KIRK IN THE GARDEN OF EVIE 7 historians to believe it was more a hermit's cell than a chapel. since the entrie of the Reformation, for speaking in defence of However, there are two similarly sited chapels in neighbouring the treuth and discovery of the enemyes' concerns from tyme to Birsay parish. All three were placed beside hillside burns. 22 Its tyme". 27 Morrison remained as minister of Evie and Rendall, position in relation to other antiquities may also have dictated nevertheless, until he was deposed for social offences three this remote site (see Appendix 2 which shows the relationship years after the 's death. 28 between ancient sites). Apparently signs of a track from Orkney was little troubled by the Covenanting division to the chapel were visible last century. The prebend of Our Lady witnessed by lowland Scotland. Murdo Mackenzie, elected of Woodwick, founded by wealthy benefactors, existed until the in 1676, had been a zealous Presbyterian and Reformation. A prebend was revenue from a particular chapel Covenanter as Parson of Elgin, but readily complied with re- allowed to priests who officiated at stated times. 23 Could such established Episcopacy. Mellowed by the years, his great aim services have been held in the solitary chapel of Norrisdale? was for peace in the Church. 29 There was a chapel dedicated to Our Lady in Woodwick. Was Early in December 1679, the Crown , a ship carrying this chapel the one at the only known chapel site of Norrisdale? for deportation to the West Indies, was wrecked on the Moul Head of . Two hundred and fifty-seven were crammed below decks, in a space not sufficient to hold 100, 30 Troubled Days when the ship set sail from Leith on November 27. During a During the troublesome days of the seventeenth century, storm the ship dropped anchor off the Orkney shore on when England engaged in civil war and Scotland was divided by December 10. The prisoners asked permission to land, but the National Covenant and The Solemn League and Covenant, instead the hatches were securely chained and locked over almost all of Orkney's clergy remained loyal to the Royalist them in the hold. At 10 o'clock that night the ship was driven cause. There were two exceptions, James Morrison of Evie and against the rocks of Moul Head and was broken in two. Only 31 Rendall, and Patrick Waterstoun of Stronsay and . 24 fifty prisoners escaped with their lives. The bodies, of the few 32 Morrison was called to account by the Dean's Chamber after that were washed ashore, were buried at Scarvating. the of Charles II, in 1662. The Bishop of Orkney, Thomas Syderff, promoted to the See of Orkney when he was 80 Grim Picture years old, was unable to come north and only knew of the The country parish churches in Orkney were not in good parishes of his See by name. His Dean, Edward Richardson, condition when the eighteenth century closed. Although the minister of and , kept him informed. 25 walls may have been substantial, the roofs were leaky, and After examining Morrison's written answers to the charges, the heating, lighting and seating was virtually non-existent. Bishop determined that if no further information was obtained, Cleaning was a lost art as far as Kirks were concerned. Free- "he might continew his ministrie upon good behavior". 26 will offerings were also unknown at that time, and the straw or However, an Act of Parliament of 1650 was produced, in favour heather ropes needed for thatching were not voluntary of the two ministers. Morrison was to be paid 6,000 merks from contributions either! Records show that the total annual the presbytery's vacant stipends for the "excessive charges and collections in the churches of Evie and Rendall were seldom expenses" he had been put to by the Presbytery of Orkney, "ever

27 Hossack, p.82 22 Fraser, op. cit ., p.44 28 Hossack, p.82 23 Idem. 29 Hossack, pp.85f. 24 B H Hossack, Kirkwall in the Orkneys , (Kirkwall: The Kirkwall Press, 30 Alexander Smellie, Men of the Covenant, (London: Banner of Truth, 1962), 1986),, p.82. p.311. 25 Hossack, p.83 31 Hossack, p.284. 26 Hossack, p.82 32 Smellie, p.312.

10 THE KIRK IN THE GARDEN OF EVIE THE KIRK IN THE GARDEN OF EVIE 9 more than £3. Fines for delinquents, and dues from marriages quarried the stone for the building and the women transported and mort-cloth were even less. The proceeds were for the poor, it to the site. The building still stands, with pulpit and gallery after two precentors, a session clerk and two kirk officers had intact, but it is now used as a builder's store. been paid from this income, as well as thatching the two Kirks. Magnus Anderson, an elder from the Kirkwall Secession There was little left for the poor. 33 Church, did much to establish the Kirk aboon the Hill. He was Not only were the kirk buildings in a bad state at the close of the grandfather of James Anderson, at one time proprietor of the eighteenth century. James Haldane, the Independent the "Orcadian". There is a story that Magnus was anxious to evangelist, visiting in the summer of 1797, paints a grim cross to one of the islands, but there was no boat. He decided picture of the spiritual state of Orkney. "The islands of Orkney, that he, Peter like, would either walk across or swim. He made ... by what we actually witnessed, have been, ... as much in a heroic effort, but thinking himself sinking instead of need of the true Gospel of Jesus Christ, so far as respects the swimming he glanced behind him and noticed the "swallow- preaching of it, as any of the islands of the Pacific Ocean". 34 tails" of his coat floating in the water. Seeing this he chided Noting that the parishes could include several islands, Haldane himself, "O, Mansie, Mansie, there's mair faith in your coat-tails observed that the ministers preached only occasionally, "owing than in yersel!" 39 to the want of churches, or rather to the churches being in The Secession movement in the church spread rapidly in the want of repair, as well as the occasional trouble and difficulty of 18th century. This has been attributed to the need for reform in crossing the firths which intersect these islands, to say nothing the Established Church of Scotland, but a failure of the clergy of the want of zeal, many of the people see their pastor but to see to it. Moderatism, which preached, when it preached at seldom in the course of the year". 35 Of "Rendal [ sic ] and Evie, all, a "cold morality", grew at an alarming rate. While they forming one parish ... it was found that in the latter island [ sic ] aimed for literary polish and refinement in their sermons, the there had been no sermon for eight or nine years, and that at Moderates had little influence among the people. As the Rendal there was no church-service except on alternate Moderates preached morality without Christ, the morals of the Sabbaths". 36 George Low in his 1774 tour repeatedly refers to people sunk lower and lower. 40 Such religious revivals as the laziness of the clergy. There seems to have been more occurred in Cambuslang and Kilsyth were denounced by the concern for the fleece than the flock, tending the garden and Moderates. But their own system resulted in the increase of glebe not the people. In the parishes of Birsay and Evie the irreligion and immorality. 41 Lord's Supper was not dispensed in the Established Church for The General Assembly of 1730 enacted that reasons for nearly 20 years. 37 dissent, "against the determination of church judicatures" were not to be recorded. 42 Following this restriction Ebenezer Secession Faith Erskine seceded with three other ministers in 1733. By 1747 there were 32 seceder congregations. These, too, were divided The only spiritual hope for Orkney, so far as James Haldane later into the Burghers and Anti-burghers and into Old Lights was concerned, appeared to be in the Anti-burgher Secession and New Lights. Church. 38 There was a Secession following in Evie and they met in the "Kirk aboon the Hill", in Birsay. Apparently, the men

33 Ross, op. cit. 39 Goodfellow, op. cit. , pp. 140f. 34 Alexander Haldane, The Lives of of Airthrey and of his 40 Thomas Brown, Church and State in Scotland - A Narrative of the Struggle brother James Alexander Haldane , (Edinburgh: W P Kennedy, 1855), p.157. for Independence from 1560 to 1843 , (Edinburgh: Macniven and Wallace, 35 Haldane, p.157. 1891), p.194. 36 Haldane, p.160. 41 Brown, p.201. 37 Alexander Goodfellow, Birsay Church History , (Kirkwall, 1903), pp.142f. 42 Quoted by B H Hossack, Kirkwall in the Orkneys (Kirkwall: The Kirkwall 38 Haldane, p.158. Press, 1986), p.444.

12 THE KIRK IN THE GARDEN OF EVIE THE KIRK IN THE GARDEN OF EVIE 11 Buried Alive young Margaret Erskine was cut off after a short illness. Her husband resolved that her jewellery be buried with her, and a The originators of the Secession Church, the Ebenezer and valuable ring was left on her finger. As the village carpenter Ralph Erskine brothers, where of Orcadian descent. Their came to screw down the coffin lid, Henry thought he saw her mother, Margaret Halcro came from Evie and before she left lips quiver. But every effort to ascertain life proved negative. Orkney for the south, at 19 years old, she obtained a certificate The carpenter, who was also the sexton, took note of the of character from the Evie Kirk Session, dated May 27, 1666: jewellery, thinking it a pity that such things should be buried.

He only loosely screwed down the lid, planning to slip back at To all and sundry into whose hands these presents shall night to plunder the corpse. As the burial was in the late come, be it known that the bearer hereof Margaret Halcro afternoon he arranged with the bereaved that he would fill in lawful daughter of the deceased Hugh Halcro in the isle of the grave during daylight the next day. That night he returned Weir [Wyre] and Margaret Stewart his spouse, hath lived to the coffin and soon had the lid off. The ring he thought in the Parish of Evie, from her infancy in good fame and would be easy to remove proved more difficult than expected report, is a discreet Godly young woman, and to our and so he took his knife to cut off the finger. As he cut through certain knowledge is free from all scandal reproach or the vein, Mrs Erskine revived and uttered a piercing shriek. The blame. As also that she is descended of her father of the sexton fled and Mrs Erskine clambered out the grave as best as house of Halcro, which is a very ancient and honorable she could. Weak and cold, she managed to find her way home. family, in the Orkneys, the noble and potent Earl of Early, At the Manse her husband was distressed to hear knocking at and lairds of Dun, in Angus, and her mother of the lairds the locked door which was like his wife's knock. A servant of Barscube, in Galloway. In witness thereof, we, the opened the door and fainted at seeing the risen corpse. Henry minister and clerk have subscribed these presents at Erskine could hardly believe his ears as the voice declared she Evie, day, year, month of God and place aforesaid, and was not a ghost but really alive. Later, when she had recovered give way to all other noblemen, gentlemen and ministers from her ordeal she was able to relate how she had been to do the same. - Sic subscribitur conscious, but unable to move or speak. She had calculated Mr. Morison, Minister of Evie that the sexton would return when she saw him eyeing her George Ballentine jewels. 45 She survived her husband by almost 30 years, 46 dying James Traill in 1725 at the age of 77. William Bellenden. 43

Hossack tells the story that a few months after she married Patronage Rev. Henry Erskine (in the Abbey of Dryburgh 44 ) in 1674, the After the "Glorious Revolution", when William of Orange became king in 1689, the Church of Scotland, although "established", that is, was financially supported by the state, 43 Scott, p.16. (This is also given by Hossack, op. cit ., p.444.) Scott notes that endeavoured to maintain "Spiritual Independence". In the the certificate was first given by Ebenezer Erskine's biographer, Rev Dr General Assembly of 1690 the Westminster Confession of Faith Donald Fraser of Kennoway from the original left to him by his grandfather was ratified, and patronage and the oath of supremacy Ralph Erskine. Scott also notes that the Stewart family of Barscube were from Renfrewshire, not Galloway. It is said that Margaret was born in Wyre, but raised from infancy at Aikerness, Evie, but this is unconfirmed. Aikeris of the Ancestors, Kindred, and Descendants of the Rev. Henry Erskine , in South Ronaldsay was the home of a branch of the Halcro family and this (London: George Bell, 1890), p. viii. may have been confused with Aikerness 45 Hossack, op. cit .., pp.444f 44 Henry and Margaret were married at 6.00pm on September 1, 1674 by 46 Scott, op. cit ., cf. Henry's death as 1696 in Table I (p.3) with Margaret's John Veitch, minister of Westruther. Margaret was Henry's second wife. death in 1725 in Table II (p.11). Hossack appears incorrect when he says Ebenezer Erskine Scott, The Erskine Halcro Genealogy: A Genealogical Study that Margaret survived her husband by only 20 years (op. cit., p.445).

14 THE KIRK IN THE GARDEN OF EVIE THE KIRK IN THE GARDEN OF EVIE 13 abolished. Abolishing patronage gave the nomination of The Evangelicals in the Church were outnumbered by the ministers into the hand of Kirk Sessions and heritors. Some Moderates. When such men as Charles Simeon and Rowland refused to accept the position particularly because the Solemn Hill came from England into Scotland and preached in some League and Covenant had not been restored. These remained pulpits of the Church, the Assembly passed an Act prohibiting outside the Church of Scotland and were the forefathers of the all ministers "from having ministerial communion with them". 48 Reformed Presbyterian Church, of which only a few The Church of Scotland isolated itself. congregations remain in Scotland (although it is stronger in More and more disputed settlements arose and the Assembly Northern Ireland and the USA). began inevitably to decide against the people and in favour of In 1712, five years after the Union of England and Scotland, the patron. Congregations ceased to resist. They simply left the Parliament restored Patronage. The Bill was so hurried through Church and built a Secession meeting-house. 49 The Established Parliament that the Scottish Church had no time to oppose it - Church was in decay. Three hundred Secession chapels had an insult to Scotland. been build, tens of thousands of the best people had left the The Moderates supported the principle of patronage. There Church of Scotland. 50 Were it not for the startle given by the were 900 patronages in the hands of the Crown and private French Revolution the Church of Scotland may have died patrons. These patronages could be bought and sold and the altogether. In their terror in the midst of social institutions holder, whether good or bad in character, members of the crashing on the Continent the British people began to realise Church of Scotland or hostile to it, had the right to select the that the revival of earnest vital religion was the only hope for minister of a congregation. The people had no real say. For the Church. The warmth and zeal of the Church in her better example, in 1734, at Muckhart, a Mr Rennie had been days began to return. The Evangelical revival was at hand. presented by the patron, but the call was only signed by two resident parishioners, the rest were opposed to his coming. The Evie and the Free Church of Scotland Presbytery refused to ordain him. However, the General The Session of the Free Church of Evie and Rendall met for Assembly appointed a "Riding Committee" to carry out the the first time on June 22, 1843. The Minute Book records that settlement. On the day appointed, the parishioners kidnapped Rev. Adam Rettie was moderator and the elders were William Mr Rennie and kept him until the time was past. Another day Flett, Thomas Gray and James Green. was appointed, and this time Mr Rennie had an armed guard.

But the people had barricaded the doors and a window had to The moderator reported that in consequence of various be broken for the ministers to enter for the ordination. Apart constitutional encroachments made by the Court of from the ordaining party the church was empty. Mr Rennie Session and House of Lords upon the ecclesiastical never preached in the building, except on the Sunday following jurisdiction and spiritual independence of the Established his ordination. He continued as parish minister for 52 years, Church of Scotland and sanctioned by the Legislative of but he never had a Kirk Session, not even a single elder. He the Kingdom, a large body of ministers and elders, chosen never dispensed a Communion, nor made a collection for the Commissioners of the General Assembly of the Church of poor. He let the manse, except for the dining-room, in which he Scotland appointed to have been holden at Edinburgh the preached to seldom more than three or four hearers. Taking a 18th day of May last, did then and there solemnly protest lease of a farm to the west of the parish, he proved so against the freedom and lawfulness of any Assembly that successful a farmer that he bought another farm. When he might there be constituted as an Assembly of the became the landlord of that farm, it yielded three times the rent 47 it did when he first bought it. 48 Brown, p.202. 49 Brown, p.185. 47 Brown, op. cit ., pp.193f. 50 Brown, p.203.

16 THE KIRK IN THE GARDEN OF EVIE THE KIRK IN THE GARDEN OF EVIE 15 Establishment, and against the subversion recently persisted in resisting the presbytery they would be suspended, affected in the Constitution of the Establishment - that and then deposed. The Civil Court, having, in the Established these ministers and elders did thereafter along with Church the responsibility of the temporal well being of the diverse other ministers and elders of the Establishment ministers, came to their rescue and annulled the sentence of assumed by them, constitute themselves into a Free the Church, thus making null and void the Church's spiritual General Assembly, adhering to the Confession of Faith, jurisdiction. and the Standards of the Church of Scotland as The Law Courts also decided that the Church had no right to heretofore understood - and did agree to adopt an Act of legislate for chapel ministers to sit at Church Courts. But, if the Separation, whereby they separated from the Church was spiritually independent, she should have the power Establishment, and renounced the rights and privileges to appoint her own office-bearers. thereof. At last in 1843 the Commission of Assembly brought a petition before the House of Commons seeking the The hope of better things, springing from the alarm of the disestablishment of the Church of Scotland. The English French Revolution had not come to flower. By 1834 the influence outweighed the Scottish and the crave was refused. Evangelical party were in the majority in the General Assembly For nearly three hundred years, the Church of Scotland had of the Church of Scotland. The Cause of Christ advanced for claimed spiritual independence and freedom to serve Christ, the next five years. But the question of Establishment was according to her own views of duty. Much blood had been shed being raised. The Voluntaryist were demanding that the Church maintaining that principle. Now in one swoop the English should be totally independent of the state. dominated Parliament had overthrown the Church's spiritual When the Evangelicals gained the majority they sought to independence. In a way, perhaps even what the Norsemen were reverse the policy of the Moderates to allow the people to call not able to do to the earlier church of Orkney, Parliament did. their own ministers by restoring the old law that, "no minister So once more the true old Church of Scotland renounced her must be intruded on any congregation contrary to the will of connections with the state to become the Free Church of the people". A compromise of the Veto Law was decided upon, Scotland. in that if a patron's presentee was unacceptable the The Presbytery of Orkney, in connection with the Free congregation's voiced objection would be accepted. Each chapel Church of Scotland had instructed Rev Adam Rettie to form a minister was also to have a Kirk Session to aid him in his work Session in Evie and Rendall consisting of himself as moderator, and he was to have a seat in the Courts of the Church. together with such elders of Evie and Rendall who now adhered However, these two Acts, passed in 1834, were to lead to to the Free Church of Scotland. continued trouble and end in the Disruption of 1843. The Session meeting was held at Breck, Rendall and it was A presentee for a congregation appealed to the Civil Court resolved to elect six elders. Those elected were: John Flett, when he was rejected by the congregation. The House of Lords residing at Midhouse of Costa; John Isbister, schoolmaster of ruled that civil law was still binding on the Church. That law Costa; John Leask, merchant, Brenday in Outer Evie; John was superior to the Church's spiritual jurisdiction. This was Shure, jnr., shoemaker, Gorth; Magnus Johnston, North understood to be a serious infringement on the principle of Wades; Hugh Miller, Arwick. spiritual independence. In fact, ordination was being made In December 1844 the first deacons were appointed and they subject to the state and not the Holy Spirit. were: Magnus Baikie, Newbigging, Costa; John Ballantine, Further to this, if, as happened, a presbytery had a Moderate Breckan, Costa; William Brown, Crayan, Outer Evie; Hugh majority and ordered acceptance of the presentee against the Charles, Woo; James Robertson, Waterbank; John Yorston, congregation's wishes, any ministers resisting the Court would Horrie; Samuel Wood, Creya; David Hourston, Ploverhall; be acting contrary to their ordination vows. If those ministers William Trumbland, Dyke.

THE KIRK IN THE GARDEN OF EVIE 17

The Minutes show that much of the Session's business was to thereby imperial measure and situated on the south side of the deal with moral offenders, some rules were far more strict than main road leading from Finstown to Swannay along which it we would consider acceptable now. For example, in August extends following the curve two hundred and one feet or 1846, Hugh Charles and Anne Banks, his wife, appeared before thereby" 52 the Session because they were guilty of packing and shipping Concluding his sermon, Mr Goodfellow said: pork on the Thursday "appointed for fasting and humiliation in connection with the observance of the Lord's Supper". Not all Your minister has honoured me very much in asking me the cases were as clear cut as that. In 1876 the Session had to to officiate at the opening services, and to preach the first sort out the charge of Margaret Hutchison against James sermon in the new church. I am very sensible of this Craigie of the Walkerhouse mill. He had sold her four bushels of privilege and honour. You have also honoured yourselves black oats, and after the oats had been ground, she charged by building such a beautiful house for the worship of him with wilfully adulterating the oats with tails of bere! God; for while there is no holiness in ugliness there is praise in beauty and good taste. And now we wish to Kirk Opened in Storm honour God, whether ministers, office-bearers, or members, by giving all praise and glory and honour to the The present Evie Church building was opened on the day of a Father, Son, and Holy Spirit. Last Sabbath, I believe, you wild storm on March 31, 1887. Not much damage was done in Orkney by the violence of the wind, but elsewhere it brought left the worst Free Church building in Orkney. Today you tragic loss of life. Three men were drowned at Fraserburgh have entered the best . In Bible language, "the last has when the Margaret of Findochty, Banffshire, sank. At one stage become the first". You could not wish a better building in during, what was described as a hurricane, three other boats which to worship God than this is - so spacious and were helplessly adrift, with little hope for their safety. However, commodious, so cheerful and airy, so beautiful and well they were all driven onto the Sands at Fraserburgh and the finished, so easy in which to preach and to hear. While we Life-saving Brigade were able to rescue their crews. Two men give all due praise to yourselves for undertaking such a work, and contributing the means to carry it on; while we from boats were also drowned. The John Lewis was give all due praise to your minister for the hearty way in picked up by a steam line vessel 60 miles out to sea. She was which he has helped you, and the hard work which he disabled and had lost a member of her crew. Several ships were has performed for you in collecting money to raise such struck by lightning. One, the Broughty Ferry boat Mary Ann , an edifice; and while we give all due praise to the was struck by what appeared to be a fire ball. Although some of architect and workers for the parts they have performed, the crew were thrown down by it, none were seriously injured, we must above all accord our highest praises to God for but the ship was badly damaged. In all, 45 lost their lives along the help, wisdom, money and blessing which he has the East Coast of Scotland as a result of that storm. 51 graciously bestowed. For the builders build in vain unless Alexander Goodfellow, Free Church minister of South the Lord doth build. "Not unto us, O God, not unto us, Ronaldsay, preached the opening sermon from the text of 1 but unto Thy name be all the glory". What you must now Corinthians 2:6 and 7, "I have planted, Apollos watered, but all seek for, minister, elders, deacons, members, and God gave the increase ..." This was done on the Thursday fast- adherents, is the blessing of the Most High, that the glory day of the Communion, in the new building raised on the site of the Lord fill this place, that the Holy Spirit may granted by John Yorston of Orquil. Mr Yorston had also given descend in mighty power, that many souls may be born the site for the first Free Church in 1843. The land allotted was again. Oh, that this may be the beginning of days to you, "thirty-two perches, two yards and three quarters of a yard or

51 The Orkney Herald , April 6, 1887, p.5. 52 From the original title deed, November 29, 1886.

2018 THE KIRK IN THE GARDEN OF EVIE THE KIRK IN THE GARDEN OF EVIE 1921 and that from this day henceforth the Spirit's presence Free and National Church may be ever with you! I am certain that the old gospel will The Act of Patronage was removed from the Statute Book in be preached here as was preached in the old building; for 1874, and the Church of Scotland is no longer an Established it is still the gospel, the grand old gospel of God's grace Church in the way she was in 1843. The Articles Declaratory of that is the power of God unto salvation to everyone that the Constitution of the Church of Scotland in Matters Spiritual believeth. May all your hearts be knit together in faith, (1921) and the Basis of Union (1929) form the terms of the hope, and love, each one seeking for the prosperity of Church's spiritual independence and her national recognition. Zion! 53 The Articles Declaratory, agreed by Presbyteries and the

General Assembly, and by both Houses of Parliament states: The building was designed to hold 360 people. The walls were constructed of local bluestone, with freestone dressings This Church, as part of the Universal Church, wherein quarried from Fersness, Eday. The roof was open timbered of the Lord Jesus Christ has appointed a government in the pitch pine. Samuel Baikie, jnr, of was both architect hands of Church office-bearers, receives from Him, its and contractor for the 67 foot long building. Divine King and Head, and from Him alone, the right and The Session minutes record that the question of a new power, subject to no civil authority, to legislate, and to building had been raised as early as 1881. The choice then was adjudicate finally, in all matters of doctrine, worship, to build new or to repair the old. It was agreed to put the matter government, and discipline in the Church. … Recognition to a congregational meeting. By March of 1885 when the matter by civil authority of the separate and independent was again raised, it was clear that a new building was needed. government and jurisdiction of this Church in matters spiritual, in whatever manner such recognition be Revival expressed, does not in any way affect the character of this In 1898 something of a revival broke out in Evie during the government and jurisdiction as derived from the Divine ministry of James Roy. Evangelistic meetings were held in the Head of the Church alone, or give the civil authority any Spring and people flocked to them. Over 200 people professed right of interference with the proceedings or judgements to have found Christ during the three weeks of meetings. Many of the Church within the sphere of its spiritual young people became members of the Church and from this government and jurisdiction. ( Article IV .) came the formation of the Christian Endeavour Society. In 1900 there were 300 members on the roll, with 60 adherents. In this The Church of Scotland may, by these Articles, claim to be year the Free Church of Evie and the United Presbyterian both national and free. Church of Rendall were join as the United Free Church. This in turn was united with the Church of Scotland in 1930. There were 200 communicant members of the Evie Church in 1952 and today there are 108. In 1965 the Church was linked to that of Rendall, Rev Thomas Tait being the first minister of the linkage. The two linked Churches were further linked with Firth Church in 1979.

53 The Orkney Herald , April 6, 1887, p.5.

22 THE KIRK IN THE GARDEN OF EVIE THE KIRK IN THE GARDEN OF EVIE 23 APPENDIX 1 APPENDIX 2 The Main Ancient Sites in Evie (with their Ordnance Survey Grid References) Arrangement of Ancient Sites and Distances (Taken from John Fraser: The Antiquities of Evie Parish ) Brochs Burgar - West Broch (Grid Reference: HY348278) The situations of brochs, chapels, and other antiquities are Burgar - East Broch (Grid Reference: HY352277) related to each other in the West Mainland in a way that Craig of Rittin, Woodwick (Grid Reference: HY400248) suggests that their placement was not haphazard. Gurness (Aikerness) (Grid Reference: HY384268) Knowe of Stenso (Grid Reference: HY363267) Vinquin, Costa (Grid Reference: HY326283) Distances between sites: St Nicholas Chapel - Knowe of Stenso ...... 3040 feet Other Mounds and Pict Houses Knowe of Stenso - Knowe of Grugar ...... 3040 feet Howana Gurna, or Howan Greeney, Standing Stone - ...... 6080 feet or Howanny Granna (Grid Reference: HY337263) Howana Gruna - West Broch of Burgar ...... 6080 feet Howea Breck (Grid Reference: HY387258) Standing Stone - Knowe of Stenso ...... 7600 feet Knowe of Desso (Grid Reference: HY377262) St Peter's Kirk - Knowe of Grugar ...... 7600 feet Knowe of Grugar, or Ryo (Grid Reference: HY352273) Standing Stone - Kirk of Norrisdale ...... 7100 feet Reeky Knowes (Grid Reference: HY387265) Robbie's Knowe (Grid Reference: HY362266) Howana Gurna - Knowe of Grugar ...... 7100 feet Verron (Grid Reference: HY318299) Vinquin Broch - West Broch of Burgar ...... 7100 feet Kirk of Norrisdale - St. Nicholas Chapel ...... 10600 feet Stones Standing Stone - Knowe of Grugar ...... 10600 feet Cubbie Roo's Stone (Grid Reference: HY367230) Knowe of Stenso - St. Peter's Kirk ...... 10600 feet Mans, or Magnus' Stone (site of) (Grid Reference: HY304295) In April 1116 the corpse of St Magnus rested on a large flat stone near The distances 3040 feet and 6080 feet are equal to one half and the end of Swannay Loch. From that time it marked the unofficial one nautical mile respectively. A nautical mile is one sixtieth of boundary between Evie and Birsay. The stone is no longer there. a degree of latitude. Distances corresponding with the above Standing Stone, Quoys (Grid Reference: HY379247) exist in Stenness, Harray, etc. As well as being equidistant from each other, St. Nicholas Chapel, the Knowe of Stenso, and the Chapels Knowe of Grugar are all in line. The short distance between the Kirk of Norrisdale, or Norrensdal (Grid Reference: NY374228) two brochs at Burgar is similar to brochs in Burray and Hoxa, St. Nicholas Chapel (Grid Reference: NY379264) St. Peter's Kirk (Grid Reference: HY338287) South Ronaldsay.

Old Houses Dove Cot, or Pigeon House, Woodwick (Grid Reference: HY390240) Old Manse (Grid Reference: HY368257) Styes of Aikerness (Grid Reference: HY366228)

APPENDIX 3

Ministers of the Free Church of Evie and Rendall (1843 - 1902) 1843 - 1874 Adam Rettie 1875 - 1879 Alexander Macgregor Rose 1880 - 1887 George Home, MA 1888 - 1902 James Roy, BD

June 11, 1902 - Became United Free Church of Evie

1902 - 1906 James Roy, BD (died in Evie, 1913) 1906 - 1911 Robert Lee Kirk (Assistant minister under James Roy) This brief history of the church in 1911 - 1918 Duncan A MacLaren (Assistant minister under James Roy) Evie was originally produced to 1919 - 1923 Oliver Dryer mark the centenary of the present 1923 - 1926 Thomas T Alexander 1926 - 1932 James Ferguson and John McCallum acted as Evie Church, in 1987. interim moderators (James Lennie Matches - lay preacher for 10 months in 1929)

August 14, 1930 - Union of United Free Church and Church of Scotland

1933 - 1936 John Black Allan, BD 1936 - 1948 Andrew J Campbell, DD (Moderator of General Assembly, 1945) NOTE: The building referred to above was sold in 2003; the congregation 1948 - 1954 J H Houston, BA 1955 - 1957 Charles Fraser resolving to build a purpose-built unit on 1957 - 1964 Alexander Robertson Glebe land near-by rather than expend a 1965 - 1979 Thomas G Tait large estimated amount on repairs to the building. 1979 - 1980 Peter E Wright, MA, BD 1981 - 1985 Alan R Cowieson, DSD, BD 1986 - Trevor G Hunt, BA BD

Evie Kirk Session 1996

THE KIRK IN THE GARDEN OF EVIE

Trevor G Hunt