Touch of Tuxedo Backup

Touch of Tuxedo

Jacket cuffs for elegant evening wear using Kreinik silk and metallic threads on Kreinik Garment Canvas

Kreinik’s Garment Canvas is a soft, lightweight and drapable 18-count needlepoint canvas made specifically for wearable stitchery. Use it to stitch designs for cuffs, belts, vest panels, collars, and more — anything wearable.

canvas in line). Materials Needed Taping canvas sides with masking tape is optional; • 1/4-yard white 18-count Kreinik Garment Canvas garment canvas is so soft that it doesn’t ‘grab’ your • Kreinik Medium (#16) Braid™ in 032 Pearl (twelve threads like traditional mono canvas does. 10-meter spools) • Kreinik Medium (#16) Braid™ in 002 Gold (seven 10-meter spools) Other stitching tips • Kreinik Silk Serica® in 8000 Soft White (twelve • Open the spool of Silk Serica by inserting your 10-meter spools) thumbnail underneath the black cap where the thread • 1 set of stretcher bars with tacks, permanent end is located. Rotate the spool while gently lifting the marker, and masking tape cap to release the thread (but not so far as making the • For finishing: interfacing, white satin lining, cap pop off). Snap the lid shut to secure the unused embellishments if desired portion. • Use a non-greasy hand creme to moisturize hands (read before stitching) and cuticles before stitching with silk threads; this will General Instructions keep the silk from snagging on rough spots on hands. Touch of Tuxedo evening cuffs was designed for • When working canvas embroidery (needlepoint), Kreinik’s 18-count white Garment Canvas. The pattern count over threads, not the holes. is a repeat of the long cashmere stitch with long • Use compensating stitches to adjust your stitches straight stitches couched in between each row. on the edge of the graph to fit stitching area. These cuffs are made long enough to fit sizes 6 • Lay all threads using a laying tool such as a through 16. They can be made larger by lengthening Tekobari, Trolley needle, Bent Weaver’s Needle, the pattern. Size 16 uses a 20-inch by 9-inch canvas for wooden laying tool, or large embroidery needle. each cuff. For size 6, use a 16-inch by 9-inch canvas After securing your thread on the canvas, bring the size. This will give you a working edge of 2 inches all thread to the front. Hold the tool of your choice in the way around. Garment canvas is extremely pliable your non-working hand about one inch above the base and must be very taut when worked. Cutting a work- of the stitch. Draw the thread over the tool and insert ing piece of canvas as small as possible will be to your it into the canvas. Make sure that the threads are neat advantage. and even as you lay them. Slide the tool out just as Place cuff outline under canvas. Instead of tracing you finish the stitch. with a continuous line, use the permanent marker to Silk Serica is a twisted thread. Since we often make dots along the outline (doing this will keep the unintentionally twist our needles as we stitch, maintain Serica’s twist by letting your needle dangle every few www.kreinik.com stitches. You can also apply a slight countertwist if it INSPIRING HANDMADE CREATIONS looks like the silk is becoming too tightly twisted. Lay 3106 Lord Baltimore Dr., #101, Baltimore, MD 21244 USA Silk Serica so that your stitches have a consistent Consumer Info: 1-800-537-2166 appearance. E-mail: [email protected] Touch of Tuxedo page 2 The Pattern and Stitches Work with the selvage edge of the canvas to the right or left. Use only a permanent marker for marking canvas.

The pattern for this design is included at the end of the instructions. Cut garment canvas into two separate pieces, each measuring the minimum size needed (see pattern and general instructions for determining size). Find the center of each canvas: fold canvas lengthwise and mark. Open canvas and fold on the width, then mark. Where the two creases cross in the center of the canvas will be the center of your canvas. Place dot in the center of the pattern to be traced under Finding the center the center mark on the canvas. If necessary, tape pattern and then tape garment canvas down to the surface you are using. (See diagram at left.) Carefully, with the point of your permanent marker, trace the outline with dots.

There are three different stitches used on these cuffs. The elongated cashmere stitch slanting left (Stitch 1), slanting right (Stitch 2), and the straight stitch couched (Stitch 3) separating the rows of elongated cashmere.

246 8 8 6 4 2 1 Trace cuff outline 10 10 1 Begin in the center of the canvas with the 3 3 5 5 straight stitch couched (3). Then work either left 7 7 or right, to the length needed for your pattern size, alternating stitches: 9 9 straight stitch couched, elongated cashmere stitch right, straight stitch couched, elongated cashmere stitch left, straight stitch couched, elongated cashmere stitch right, and so on, as in the diagram below.

Stitch 1 Stitch 2 Stitch 3

Medium Braid 002 Medium Silk Serica 8000 Braid 032 Main diagram

Repeat pattern for width and length of cuff required. Remember to use compensating stitches as the cuff ends taper.

Finishing A sewing machine and knowledge of sewing is helpful if you are doing your own finishing of the cuffs. Cut the satin lining and interfacing the same size as the pattern. Attach interfacing to the wrong side of your stitchery. Iron-on interfacing may be used with caution; do not iron directly on the metallic threads and use low heat, no steam. Determine the width you want the cuff (our model is 3/5 inches). With sewing thread (and sewing machine), make a row of stitching along the bottom of cuff. Trim to within 1/4-inch of the seam you just stitched. Put lining and stitchery right sides together. Start sewing at the bottom and along all sides, leaving about a 2.5-inch opening. Then flip right-side-out, smoothing out your points. Turn down the lining at the opening and whip stitch closed. Attach buttons or decorations on cuffs with sewing thread if desired.

Diagram below represents half of the cuff length. Place dotted line at bottom on fold.

16 14 12 10 8 6

Place on fold

Width here is 5 inches

Care While garment canvas is washable and dry cleanable, silk threads should not be washed—they are dry clean only. Keep your hands and work clean while stitching. Garment canvas requires minimal blocking, but if blocking is necessary, do not wet block the silk work (use a dry blocking technique).