May 8, 1928. 1,668,745 F. W., TULLY COLLAR AND CUFF Filed Sept. 2, 192l

Patented May 8, 1928. 1,668,745 UNITED STATES PATENT of FICE. FRANCIS W. TULLY, OF BROOKLINE, MASSACEUSETTS, COLLAR AND CUFF. Application filed September 2, 1921. serial No. 497,891. This invention relates to collars and cuffs, damage by wear during laundry operations which may be of the kind attached to the is excessive, the average garment being ca garment with which they are worn per pable of being worn only a few times before manently by sewing, or of the kind attached the cleansing operation destroys it. replaceably by buttons or other fasteners, The imitation-fabric collars and cuffs are 60 and to the method of making them. not really deceptive, and their use is associ The prior art as heretofore practised has ated in the public mind with careless per provided garments of the class referred to sonal habits. intended to be worn in a soft state without 0 It is therefore highly desirable satis laundry starching; garments intended to be factorily to replace the limp soft collar and 65 starched; and imitation garments of the cuff and the heavily starched stiff collar and stiff type, made of a fabric and additions of cuff with textile-fabric or genuine articles of one sort or another, such as heavy coatings this sort which shall be cleanly, of good ap 5 of white pigments and binders of celluloid, perance and not subject to rapid damage in rubber and other hard calendered substances, use, and capable of being refreshed in a 70 which sometimes have been embossed to take simpler way than the laundry operations re the appearance of the cloth they are sup quired for a stiff collar. posed to imitate. . . . None of these types of collar or cuff is The present invention provides a way of 2) really satisfactory. The soft type, con retaining the shape of a collar or cuff of sisting of the cloth only, is subject to rum this general type and preserving its appear 5 pling, and consequently soiling, after slight sitateance in laundering. use until sufficiently soiled to neces use. The soft fabrics also cling to the wrist This invention therefore has for its or the neck of the wearer in an uncomfort principal object to provide a collar or cuff 25 able manner, so that, although their vogue adapted to resist rumpling, soiling and the 80 is for summer wear, it is the fact that this effects of moisture or perspiration, and : type of collar or cuff is warmer and less . adapted to be cleansed and refreshed by comfortable to wear in summer than the ordinary washing, with or without pressing: s) stiff collars upon which it is supposed to be to avoid starching; to minimize the laundry an improvement. With certain informal wear; and in the case of soft or negligee 85 summer clothing, however, the present collars, to provide against the discomfort of . sense of appropriate dressing calls for a limp and clinging fabrics next the skin; and soft negligee collar and cuff, and there is to provide an improved mode of making such garments. tdemand for . a. . more. . efficient. article of this A further object of the invention is to 90 stiff starched collar, while of good, if provide a genus of collars and cuffs adapted of too formal, appearance, still remains ex to be laundered without starching and in ceedingly perishable, being subject to wilt herently capable of retaining the desired ing under the moisture of perspiration or 40 finish in respect to flatness, folded form, damp weather, so that one of these collars and freedom from rumpling and creasing in 95 or cuffs can seldom be worn a whole day use, and which will retain these properties with satisfaction. Soft collars, worn with although subjected to heat and moisture and out starching, obviously are open to this ob the other casualties of use. jection to a less extent than stiff collars, I have elected to illustrate my invention . 45 since the normal appearance of the soft by certain forms only of collars and cuffs, collar as heretofore made is rumpled de as shown of the fold-over type. . 100 spite the various well-known expedients for In the drawing- . . maintaining unstarched collars in a decently Figure 1 is an elevation of a fold-over neat condition. . collar made according to my invention in 50 The laundry finishing. operations hereto its flat state; fore relied upon comprise starching to a Figure 2 is a perspective of the outside of 105 considerable stiffness and flattening in a the left-hand end of a collar illustrating a folded state under ironing heat and pressure. modification; . . . . In the case of stiff collars of the folding Figures 3,4 and 5 are respectively typical 55 type and in less degree with other types, cross sections of fold-over collars of differ 2 1,668,745 ent fabric construction each embodying the ingredients, for the purposew of altering the invention; and consistency, stiffness, resilience or other qual Figure 6 is an elevation of the infolded ities of the residue. N face of a fold-over cuff made according to In some cases, I may employ other trans the invention. lucent, transparent or white cemetitious sub 70 Referring now to Fig.1, a separate collar stances. For example, I may prepare a solu of the fold-over type as therein shown com tion containing about 30% of casein in water prises one or more plies 1 of a suitable tex by warming and the addition of a small tile fabric cut and appropriately edge-folded quantity of ammonia, providing a thick O to any desired shape, for example that paste, which is applied to the collar, allowed s shown, and sewed at 2 along the margin to to dry partially, and then subjected to the provide material for a band portion 3 and action of a bath containing formaldehyde in a top portion 4, which may be integral, as about 20% solution. The resulting reaction shown, or separate. The band 3 of which coagulates the casein application to a water 15 the inside surface appears in Fig. 1, may proof, elastic and stiff consistency adapted be provided with any suitable button-holes to withstand laundry processes. . 5 and, if desired, an attached flat button 6. Whatever particular waterproof impreg If the collar is to be a soft collar, I prefer to nating agent is chosen, its consistency, quant employ a failuric or fabrics of sufficient body ity and mode of application are such as to 20 and stiffness, as known in the art, and the reach the effect of waterproofing, smooth whole thickness of the collar may be sup ing, and sufficiently stiffening the fabric to plied by one layer of multi-ply fabric, by cause it elastically to resist rumpling, soil two layers of such or of single-ply fabric, ing and wetting, and to remain stiff when or by any desired number of separate plies. moist. 25 For instance, in Fig. 5, I have shown in Preferably the application to the fabric is 00 cross-section a collar made of two layers, a translucent or transparent, so that the color and b of which at least one may be a thick and texture of the treated fabric is not mate heavy canvas, or a piqué, or other two-or rially altered, but is displayed beneath and more-ply interwoven linen or cotton cloth, through the applied materials, the applica 30 the overlaid blanks being turned in at the tion of which sometimes may be increased 95 edges 7 and stitched at 2. Fig. 3 shows a or repeated, if desired, so as to form a per structure of one layer of thicker and heavier ceptible coating when dry. The object is multiply cloth, the edge being bound by a not to stiffen the cloth to board-like stiffness, tape 9 and stitched at 10. In Fig. 4 the or necessarily to fill its textural interstices, 35 structure is the same as that of Fig. 5, ex but to impregnate and protect the compo 00 cept that the band 3 and top 1 are made nent yarns so as to stiffen them and render separately and sewed together at 11, the top the fabric impermeable to moisture except having one ply overlapped on the other at under prolonged agitation and soaking. 12, for an edge finish. Fabric so treated may be laundered by usual 0. In either (or any other suitable) construc methods without starching, flat drying and OS tion, the band portion is so treated as to re pressing with a comparatively cold iron be sist soiling, rumpling, and the absorption of ing sufficient to restore the flatness and good moisture, by the application to it of, and appearance of the treated parts after wash impregnation of the interstitial spaces be ling. 45 tween the fibres of its yarns with, a suitable I have explained and claimed another lo water-proof cementitious and adhering ma utilization of the generic type of such ap terial characterized by resistance to solution plications to fabric garments in my applica in or very difficult solubility in soapy or al tion Serial No. 206,389, filed December 10, kaline washing liquids, and resistance to 1917 of which this application is a contin 50 change by moderate heat, such as ironing luation in part. - heat. This material may be any material I utilize the waterproofing and stiffening adapted to secure the specified results, but effect of the impregnation for the present I prefer to employ a plastic, cementitious purpose by limiting its application in such adhesive solution (if cellulose in a solvent. a way as to determine a place of fold or 55 Cellulose acetate dissolved to a limpid con other edge of the garment. In Fig. 1, for 120 sistency in acetone (or other suitable vola instance, the top edge 15 of the band part of tilizable solvent), but having sufficient cel the collar determines the fold f, Figs. 3 to 5, lulose acetate in solution to leave a substan and according to my invention, this edge is tial residue upon evaporation of the solvent, determined by one boundary of the impreg is an advantageous and preferred material nation, the top 4 being, as shown in Figs. 1 125 adapted to remain unchanged through often and 3 untreated. The fold line, if the collar repeated washing or ironing, or both. The is desired to have a stiff or semi-stiff top, treating solution may be suitably varied, may be defined on both edges, the top being however, without departing from my inven treated to the line 16, Fig. 5, parallel with tion, by the addition of or substitution of . the line 15, The same treatment may be 130 1,668,745 3 employed for a cuff 20, Fig. 6, the impreg nated areas 21, 21 being separated by an un either case retain indefinitely their flatness, treated place 22 to determine a more flex their shape and their resilient stiffness (at ible line for folding. In the case of either the band portion of the collars, for instance) collar or cuff, when the structure is of more where stiffness is desired. than one ply, the impregnation may, if de I claim: sired, be confined to one ply only, or less 1. A collar or cuff of textile fabric having than the whole number. While the impreg therein an area impregnated with a water nation is indicated in the drawings by shad proof cementitious material and an area in ing, it will be understood that it is effectively its natural state, the boundary between said little apparent or wholly invisible, depend areas being at a predetermined place therein. ing upon the degree of treatment, except as 2. A collar or cuff of textile fabric having a flatter and a stiffer place in the texture of an area terminating at an edge adapted to the garment as a whole, and preferably, be constitute a line of fold and rendered stiffer cause of this, extends through the entire than the remainder of the fabric by impreg thickness of the collar or cuff. nation of the fabric of said area with a In the case of the cuff 20 and the two-or water-proof cementitious substance. more separate-ply types of collars such as 3. A collar or cuff comprising a homo shown in Figs. 4 and 5, the impregnating geneous textile fabric layer having an area agent may be, and preferably is employed terminating at an edge adapted to constitute in sufficient consistency and quantity to a line of fold and rendered stiffer than the 85 stick together the separate plies at the im remainder of the fabric by impregnation of pregnated areas. I may employ any de the fabric of said area with a waterproof sired mode of applying the impregnation cementitious substance. conducive to uniformity and accuracy, such 4. A fold-over collar or cuff of textile as application by a printing block charged fabric having therein a delimited area only 90 with the liquid substance, by brushing, by resulting from uniform impregnation of the padding, or by spraying; application fabric with a resilient substance, said area through a stencil delimiting the area; appli ending at a boundary between impregnated cation through hollow dies stopping of the and unimpregnated fabric, said boundary remainder of the fabric not intended to be determining the position of the fold in the: 95 impregnated, in the manner of press-dyeing. collar or cuff. In either case I may prevent inaccuracy in 5. A fold-over collar or cuff of textile w the edges of the impregnated area by treat fabric having therein a delimited area only ing the adjacent portions of the fabric not resulting from uniform impregnation of the intended to be impregnated with a resist. fabric with a cellulose residue insoluble in For instance, the fold lines f of the collars aqueous, soapy or alkaline washing liquids, referred to or the line 22 of the cuff 20 may said area ending at a boundary between im: first be treated by application to them of a Eted and unimpregnated fabric, said water-soluble starch solution of pasty con boundary determining the position of the sistency, by printing, stencil or otherwise; fold in the collar or cuff. 0. dried; and then the impregnating agent may 6. A fold-over collar or cuff of textile be applied, dried in shape, and the resist re fabric having a band portion and a top por moved by washing. After impregnation, tion, the band portion being stiffened, water the collar or cuff may be dried in Rare proofed and held smooth by interstitial im pressed in folded form after drying, or both. pregnation of its component yarns with the O efore package for sale, I prefer to wash residue of a locally applied water-proof sub and laundry-iron the treated collars or cuffs, stance, the portion of the collar or cuff ad this step Sty removing the odor, if jacent the impregnated area and constitut any of the solvent for the treating substance. pregnateding the fold state. line being in its natural unim... My inventionin any of its forms may also 7. A fold-over collar or cuff of textile include, see Fig. 2, an application of the fabric having a band portion and a top por- . waterproof cementitious material to portions tion, the band portion being stiffened, water of the collar or cuff subjected to excessive proofed and held smooth by interstitialim hagingwearin use,top atsuch 25, as as the shown corner in Fig.of the 2, overor to pregnation of its component yarns with a 120 the edges of limp areas, for the purpose of residue containing cellulose acetate, the por aiding these areas to remain flat, or bent in tion of the collar or cuff adjacent theim some particular form; for example, the in regnated area and constituting the fold line turned edge 12 of the top layer 1 Fig. 4, ing in its natural unimpregnated state. may be so treated; or any other line or 8. A fold-over collar or cuff haying a 125 boundary may be so treated. band and a top, the band being stiffened, Collars and cuffs according to my inven waterproofedstitial impregnation and heldwith ain translucent shape by waterinter ing,tion areand laundered if desired by also washing by ironing, and flat and dry- in pregnationproof cementitious ending atplastic a predetermitted material, theim line, so 4 1,668,745 and constituting an edge from and over lars or cuffs comprising applying to and in which the top folds. terstitially impregnating the component 9. A fold-over collar or cuff having a yarns of a predetermined area of the fabric 35 band of a plurality of plies and a top, the only with a solution of cellulose acetate in band being stiffened, water-proofed and the a volatile solvent, and drying the treated plies cemented together and held in shape fabric in the desired form. by interstitial impregnation with a trans 14. The art of making textile fabric col lucent water-proof cementitious plastic ma lars or cuffs comprising applying to and in 40 terial, the impregnation ending at a prede terstitially impregnating the component 10 termined line, and constituting an edge from yarns of a predetermined area of the fabric and over which the top folds. only with a solution of cellulose acetate in 10. A fold-over collar or cuff having an a volatile solvent, drying the treated fabric integral band and top of continuous textile in the desired form, and washing and iron fabric, the band being impregnated with a ing the finished articles. 5 water-proof cementitious material terminat 15. An article of wearing apparel made of ing at a line adapted to demark and induce separate layers or plies of fabrics secured to a fold line. E. by an intermediate layer or layers of 11. The art of making textile fabric col binding material, the said layer or layers lars or cuffs comprising applying to and in of binding material being omitted along a 20 terstitially impregnating the component narrow zone to form a portion of increased yarns of a predetermined area of the fabric flexibility along which the article is adapt only with a cementitious water-proof sub ed to fold. • stance. 16. A folding collar made of separate 12. The art of making textile fabric col layers or plies of fabric forming both the 25 lars or cuffs comprising applying to and in neckband and folding portions of the collar, terstitially impregnating the component said layers or plies being secured together by yarns of a predetermined area of the fabric an intermediate layer or layers of binding only with the residuum of a cellulose solu materials except at the fold line of the col tion adapted to resist solution in water and lar. 30 alkaline wash liquids, and the action of Signed by me at Boston, Massachusetts, moderate heat. this 30th day of August, 1921. 13. The art of making textile fabric col - FRANCIS. W. TULLY.