May 8, 1928. 1,668,745 F
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May 8, 1928. 1,668,745 F. W., TULLY COLLAR AND CUFF Filed Sept. 2, 192l Patented May 8, 1928. 1,668,745 UNITED STATES PATENT of FICE. FRANCIS W. TULLY, OF BROOKLINE, MASSACEUSETTS, COLLAR AND CUFF. Application filed September 2, 1921. serial No. 497,891. This invention relates to collars and cuffs, damage by wear during laundry operations which may be of the kind attached to the is excessive, the average garment being ca garment with which they are worn per pable of being worn only a few times before manently by sewing, or of the kind attached the cleansing operation destroys it. replaceably by buttons or other fasteners, The imitation-fabric collars and cuffs are 60 and to the method of making them. not really deceptive, and their use is associ The prior art as heretofore practised has ated in the public mind with careless per provided garments of the class referred to sonal habits. intended to be worn in a soft state without 0 It is therefore highly desirable satis laundry starching; garments intended to be factorily to replace the limp soft collar and 65 starched; and imitation garments of the cuff and the heavily starched stiff collar and stiff type, made of a fabric and additions of cuff with textile-fabric or genuine articles of one sort or another, such as heavy coatings this sort which shall be cleanly, of good ap 5 of white pigments and binders of celluloid, perance and not subject to rapid damage in rubber and other hard calendered substances, use, and capable of being refreshed in a 70 which sometimes have been embossed to take simpler way than the laundry operations re the appearance of the cloth they are sup quired for a stiff collar. posed to imitate. None of these types of collar or cuff is The present invention provides a way of 2) really satisfactory. The soft type, con retaining the shape of a collar or cuff of sisting of the cloth only, is subject to rum this general type and preserving its appear 5 pling, and consequently soiling, after slight sitateance in laundering. use until sufficiently soiled to neces use. The soft fabrics also cling to the wrist This invention therefore has for its or the neck of the wearer in an uncomfort principal object to provide a collar or cuff 25 able manner, so that, although their vogue adapted to resist rumpling, soiling and the 80 is for summer wear, it is the fact that this effects of moisture or perspiration, and : type of collar or cuff is warmer and less . adapted to be cleansed and refreshed by comfortable to wear in summer than the ordinary washing, with or without pressing: s) stiff collars upon which it is supposed to be to avoid starching; to minimize the laundry an improvement. With certain informal wear; and in the case of soft or negligee 85 summer clothing, however, the present collars, to provide against the discomfort of . sense of appropriate dressing calls for a limp and clinging fabrics next the skin; and soft negligee collar and cuff, and there is to provide an improved mode of making such garments. tdemand for . a. more. efficient. article of this A further object of the invention is to 90 stiff starched collar, while of good, if provide a genus of collars and cuffs adapted of too formal, appearance, still remains ex to be laundered without starching and in ceedingly perishable, being subject to wilt herently capable of retaining the desired ing under the moisture of perspiration or 40 finish in respect to flatness, folded form, damp weather, so that one of these collars and freedom from rumpling and creasing in 95 or cuffs can seldom be worn a whole day use, and which will retain these properties with satisfaction. Soft collars, worn with although subjected to heat and moisture and out starching, obviously are open to this ob the other casualties of use. jection to a less extent than stiff collars, I have elected to illustrate my invention . 45 since the normal appearance of the soft by certain forms only of collars and cuffs, collar as heretofore made is rumpled de as shown of the fold-over type. 100 spite the various well-known expedients for In the drawing- . maintaining unstarched collars in a decently Figure 1 is an elevation of a fold-over neat condition. collar made according to my invention in 50 The laundry finishing. operations hereto its flat state; fore relied upon comprise starching to a Figure 2 is a perspective of the outside of 105 considerable stiffness and flattening in a the left-hand end of a collar illustrating a folded state under ironing heat and pressure. modification; . In the case of stiff collars of the folding Figures 3,4 and 5 are respectively typical 55 type and in less degree with other types, cross sections of fold-over collars of differ 2 1,668,745 ent fabric construction each embodying the ingredients, for the purposew of altering the invention; and consistency, stiffness, resilience or other qual Figure 6 is an elevation of the infolded ities of the residue. N face of a fold-over cuff made according to In some cases, I may employ other trans the invention. lucent, transparent or white cemetitious sub 70 Referring now to Fig.1, a separate collar stances. For example, I may prepare a solu of the fold-over type as therein shown com tion containing about 30% of casein in water prises one or more plies 1 of a suitable tex by warming and the addition of a small tile fabric cut and appropriately edge-folded quantity of ammonia, providing a thick O to any desired shape, for example that paste, which is applied to the collar, allowed s shown, and sewed at 2 along the margin to to dry partially, and then subjected to the provide material for a band portion 3 and action of a bath containing formaldehyde in a top portion 4, which may be integral, as about 20% solution. The resulting reaction shown, or separate. The band 3 of which coagulates the casein application to a water 15 the inside surface appears in Fig. 1, may proof, elastic and stiff consistency adapted be provided with any suitable button-holes to withstand laundry processes. 5 and, if desired, an attached flat button 6. Whatever particular waterproof impreg If the collar is to be a soft collar, I prefer to nating agent is chosen, its consistency, quant employ a failuric or fabrics of sufficient body ity and mode of application are such as to 20 and stiffness, as known in the art, and the reach the effect of waterproofing, smooth whole thickness of the collar may be sup ing, and sufficiently stiffening the fabric to plied by one layer of multi-ply fabric, by cause it elastically to resist rumpling, soil two layers of such or of single-ply fabric, ing and wetting, and to remain stiff when or by any desired number of separate plies. moist. 25 For instance, in Fig. 5, I have shown in Preferably the application to the fabric is 00 cross-section a collar made of two layers, a translucent or transparent, so that the color and b of which at least one may be a thick and texture of the treated fabric is not mate heavy canvas, or a piqué, or other two-or rially altered, but is displayed beneath and more-ply interwoven linen or cotton cloth, through the applied materials, the applica 30 the overlaid blanks being turned in at the tion of which sometimes may be increased 95 edges 7 and stitched at 2. Fig. 3 shows a or repeated, if desired, so as to form a per structure of one layer of thicker and heavier ceptible coating when dry. The object is multiply cloth, the edge being bound by a not to stiffen the cloth to board-like stiffness, tape 9 and stitched at 10. In Fig. 4 the or necessarily to fill its textural interstices, 35 structure is the same as that of Fig. 5, ex but to impregnate and protect the compo 00 cept that the band 3 and top 1 are made nent yarns so as to stiffen them and render separately and sewed together at 11, the top the fabric impermeable to moisture except having one ply overlapped on the other at under prolonged agitation and soaking. 12, for an edge finish. Fabric so treated may be laundered by usual 0. In either (or any other suitable) construc methods without starching, flat drying and OS tion, the band portion is so treated as to re pressing with a comparatively cold iron be sist soiling, rumpling, and the absorption of ing sufficient to restore the flatness and good moisture, by the application to it of, and appearance of the treated parts after wash impregnation of the interstitial spaces be ling. 45 tween the fibres of its yarns with, a suitable I have explained and claimed another lo water-proof cementitious and adhering ma utilization of the generic type of such ap terial characterized by resistance to solution plications to fabric garments in my applica in or very difficult solubility in soapy or al tion Serial No. 206,389, filed December 10, kaline washing liquids, and resistance to 1917 of which this application is a contin 50 change by moderate heat, such as ironing luation in part. - heat. This material may be any material I utilize the waterproofing and stiffening adapted to secure the specified results, but effect of the impregnation for the present I prefer to employ a plastic, cementitious purpose by limiting its application in such adhesive solution (if cellulose in a solvent.