SUNDAY, MARCH 18, 2012 | SECTION E LIVING WELL

A taste of Zürich

Fraumünster, or the Church of Our Lady, in Zürich, Switzerland, features famous Chagall stained-glass windows and is beautifully illuminated at night.

Beauty of Swiss city discovered in history, landmarks and — of course — the food

STORY BY LINDA FASTESON | PHOTOS BY ROGER FASTESON | FOR THE SUN CHRONICLE

e wanted to discover the essence of Zürich and found it one morsel at a time. We began, like most tourists, along the winding lanes of the historic Old Town, W Altstadt. We enjoyed what is known in Zürich as Lädelen and browsed the shops in chic and elegant retail districts. And we rode the tram to a former industrial area to check out the new hotspots. Our search for places to dine gave us a taste of how Zürich grew from a Roman settle- ment to what it is today. Our dining experiences were windows into the city’s past, present, and future — a microcosm of Swiss culture. From traditional Swiss classics in the Old Town’s medieval guild halls to innovative in- ternational cuisine and nightlife in converted factories of the hip West End, there are seemingly limitless ways to feast on Swiss history while enjoying a good meal. SEE EXPLORE, PAGE E4 ̈

Why isn’t there more Drop a line back to the Victorian Despite all of his complaints, humanity in health care? Era with a unique antique Dad is still a dad Columnist Gretchen Robinson Antique or Junque Columnist Bonnie Ryvicker E2 E4 E2 E4 The Sun Chronicle Sunday, March 18, 2012 FROM THE COVER PASTIMES EXPLORE: Getting a taste for Zürich through history and food

FROM PAGE E1 Zürich, in the middle of Swit- zerland and Europe, is easily ac- cessible. You’ll want to stay lon- ger, but with 10-minute train rides departing several times an hour between Zürich’s air- port and its central station, even a visit between flights might be possible. Switzerland, one of the wealth- iest countries in the world, has 96 Michelin-starred restaurants — among the most Michelin stars per capita in Europe. Zürich, its largest city and center of arts and culture, has more than 40 restaurants with Gault Millau points for food quality. There are two Michelin two- star restaurants — Mesa, with Chef Marcus G. Linder, and The Restaurant in the Dolder Grand Hotel, with Chef Heiko Nieder. These should be experienced at least once. Switzerland’s high standards create not only some of the world’s finest experiences, but also ensure quality and cleanli- ness at all levels. There are ap- proximately 1,500 restaurants in Zürich. Options and prices are as diverse as the city. With some insight on where Photos by ROGER FASTESON / FOR THE SUN CHRONICLE to save and when to splurge you can get the most from your expe- Zürich from the river Tasty stuff rience and stay within your va- Zürich, Switzerland’s largest city and center of arts and culture, is on the northern shore of Lake Zürich where it meets Top: Many of Zürich’s 14 preserved cation budget. We researched the Limmat River. In this photo, the Grossmünster, the twin-towered landmark at right is the birthplace of the Swiss-Ger- guild houses, or Zunfthaus, are now our trip and asked locals for in- man Reformation, and at left, is the tower of the Fraümunster. fine restaurants. Classics like Zürch- sider tips and budget-stretchers. er Kalbsgeschnetzeltes mit Butter- Here’s what we found. Whether for truffles, pastries, or so — is a reminder of times when PHOTO SLIDESHOW View more rösti, sliced veal Zürich style with but- Breakfast buffets are gener- a quick lunch, it’s THE place to the owner was paid in paintings photos from the Fastesons’ trip tered grated potatoes, are served ally included in Swiss hotel rates stop for a break from shopping or by struggling artists. It’s classic to Zurich at thesunchronicle.com/ at Zunfthaus zur Waag. Center: The and usually consist of breads like sightseeing. Its signature light, cuisine — schnitzels and such, photogallery most famous sweet spot is Confiserie braided zopf or croissants known airy macaroon, Luxemburgerli, priced for the ambience. Sprüngli’s original traditional bakery, as gipfeli, served with butter, was developed by a young pastry Over a century old and with pastry shop and café. Bottom: Choco- jams and honey. Sliced meats, chef, named for his country, and over 100 homemade specialties, The 17th century owner sold wine lates Merkur & Läderach, on Bahnhof- fruits, cheeses, eggs, yogurts perfected at Sprüngli. Tables one family-owned Hilti, Sihlstras- made from rooftop vines. The strasse, are among the many choco- and birchermüesli — a mix of oat flight up overlook Paradeplatz se 28, near the main train sta- Goethe-Stübli is where Goethe late shops in Zürich. flakes, grated apple, ground ha- and major Swiss banks. tion, is the oldest vegetarian res- is said to have slept in 1779 when zelnuts and yogurt — round out Zürich is on the northern taurant in Europe. The Sunday visiting the minister of St. Pe- young mothers watch their chil- a meal so hearty you might skip shore of Lake Zürich where it brunch buffet with live music is ter’s Church. This vicarage at dren play in the largest green lunch. meets the Limmat River. Lo- bountiful. Tours of the kitchen Glockengasse 7 became an inn space in the city. This dynam- Enjoy local and regional prod- cations are often given as left and cooking classes in English (1800) and since 1919 has been ic area is evolving into a hip, up- ucts with fresh produce, Italian (west) or right (east) of the riv- are offered. owned by the Kaiser family, who and-coming place to live, work, salami and alpine cheeses from er. Meals in and around the Old Swiss wine production began serve simple and elegant three- meet, dine, and be entertained. Zürich’s morning fruit and vege- Town, Altstadt, come with a side when the Romans brought grape- to seven-course meals. After midnight, it’s a nightlife table markets. Just choose a sce- of history. vines. The elegant Zunfthaus zur The multicultural Niederdorf and party hotspot. nic spot, perhaps along the wa- Century-old Odeon, Lim- Meisen, across from Fraumün- area has a full range of inexpen- The train still passes over the terfront quays, on a boat on the matquai 2, is an internationally ster, was the guild house of wine sive and moderately priced eth- 1894 stone bridge and iM Viadukt lake, or at Zürich’s mountain, renowned coffee house and favor- dealers and innkeepers. It now nic restaurants and take-out eat- now houses over 50 shops in Üetliberg, and enjoy your budget- ite of writers and political lead- houses the porcelain collection of eries. Favorites include Lebanese its archways. Our favorite — stretching feast. ers. Refugees came here a cen- the Swiss National Museum. food and coffee and a belly danc- Zürich’s first covered food mar- tury ago to eat, read internation- Many of Zürich’s fourteen pre- er at Restaurant Cèdre, Mediter- ket — has a vast selection of lo- Experience pricier places for less al papers and find someone who served guild houses (Zunfthaus) ranean-style fish at Mère Cathe- cal produce, breads, sausages, Lunch costs less than din- spoke their language. are now fine restaurants. A top rine and Northern Italian food at cheeses, artisanal food products ner, and specials are common. It was an important meeting choice is Zunfthaus zur Waag, Bindella. and wine. Drink in a five-star ambience for place during World War I and built in 1315, house of the guilds Much of what is of interest in The West End less during happy hour at the Sa- World War II. Dine and specu- of linen weavers and wool weav- Zürich is within walking distance voy Hotel Baur en Ville or enjoy late on conversations when reg- ers, united in 1440, and hatters. With the age of industrializa- of the historic center. a jazz band at the bar of the Ho- ulars like Lenin, James Joyce, Meals are served in a Biedermei- tion, textile and chemical dye However, to venture out or sit tel Widder, which is in connect- Einstein, Trotsky, and Mussolini er-style dining room with splen- production became mechanized, back and enjoy the ride, a Zürich ed medieval houses originally ate here. Across the way is Café did stained glass windows over- and by the 19th century ma- Card is a great convenience. owned by the Guild of Butchers. Terrasse, frequented by the same looking Münsterhof Square. chines were the dominant indus- Available online, at the airport There’s good reason the Swiss crowd, and said to be where the Swiss Chuchi, in the Hotel try. The evolution of industrial- or train station and hotels, it in- eat an average of 12 pounds of term Dada originated. Adler, is a favorite for fondue, ra- ization is best seen in Zürich’s cludes transportation on Zürich’s chocolate a year — its quality. Nearby classic brasserie Kro- clette or crispy rösti. In summer West End. trams, buses, trains, boats and Savoring it Zürich-style in one nenhalle, Rämistrasse 4, is a there’s open air dining on the Former factory buildings have cableways, including the train of the grand cafes with coffee glamorous place to see-and-be- Hirschenplatz. been converted to apartments, from the airport, and admission and perhaps an elegant pastry or seen. Perennially frequented Until the end of 19th century offices, startup companies, muse- to Zürich’s museums. lunch is a decadent experience by artists, it’s also popular with houses had names, not address- ums, galleries, craft shops, bou- that won’t break the bank. bankers, writers, and celebri- es. Zur Reblaube (at the Sign of tiques, and trendy restaurants SEEKONK’S LINDA FASTESON can The most famous sweet spot ties. The art — including origi- the Grape Arbor) built in 1260, is and bars. be reached for travel tips and is Confiserie Sprüngli’s café. nal paintings by Mirò and Picas- one of the oldest in the Old Town. Older men play pétanque and comments at [email protected]. Brief TI Retirees, OLQM seniors plan trips, meetings

North residents can get Texas Instruments’ Attleboro Retir- $87 (due May 25). Trip includes trans- penings” around Salem. Bus leaves at reflective house numbers ees Club and Friends are planning the portation, harbor cruise, lunch at 8 a.m., returns 4 p.m. following trips, which are open to the Gloucester House, time to shop in Our Lady Queen of Martyrs NORTH ATTLEBORO — The North Attleboro public. For more information or reser- Rockport. Triad is now taking orders for reflective house vations, call Toni Denkel at 508-222-8254. Sept. 10-13, 2012 — Finger Lakes The seniors from Our Lady Queen numbers that are easy for police, fire and emer- April 18 — Foxwoods trip, cost $22 Wine Country, cost $649/double due of Martyrs Parish of Seekonk will gency personnel to read when it is dark. The and includes transportation, 1 free buf- July 25. Trip includes transportation, meet at noon on the first Tuesday of house numbers are free for North Attleboro res- fet (or $15 food coupon) plus $15 Keno three nights, six meals, tour of Son- each month at the parish center, 365 idents who are at least 60 years old. They also coupon. Bus leaves at 8 a.m., returns nenberg Gardens, lake cruise, Corning Central Ave., Seekonk. For further in- can be purchased for $10 by residents under 60. 5 p.m. Glass Museum, wine tour and Mark formation on events, contact Claire at To order a house number, call Julia Wheatley May 17 — New York Statue of Lib- Twain’s study tour. 508-226-7163. or Ann Marie Letourneau at the North Attleboro erty and Ellis Island, cost $68 (due Oct. 18 — Salem Witch Tour, cost At the April 3 meeting, soup and Senior Center at 508-699-0131. The senior center Apr. 6). Trip includes transportation, $60 (due Sept. 7). Trip includes trans- sandwiches will be served and a pen- is open Mondays through Thursdays from 8 a.m. ferry fare. Bus leaves at 7 a.m., re- portation, tour of the House of the Sev- ny social will be held. Members are to 3 p.m. and Fridays from 8 a.m. to noon. turns 10 p.m. en Gables and Salem Witch Museum asked to bring in small items to be raf- — AMY DeMELIA, Sun Chronicle Staff July 2 — Boston Tall Ships, cost and time to experience “Haunted Hap- fled off. Chess puzzler Card stands harken back to Victorian era

White mates in 3 THE WEEKLY PUZZLER BY ANNE McCOLLAM found in a building that is being re- is pro- CREATORS NEWS SERVICE Antique or junque modeled in Connecticut? It is pint 8 vided size, clear glass with the following to The : This antique stand was given words on the side “It’s McGough’s 7 Sun Qto my mother in 1959 by her 92- Country Fresh Milk.” 6 Chron- year-old friend. The ornate stand is : Glass milk bottles are collect- icle by silver and holds a frosted glass dish. Aible. I found no information on 5 Paul The overall height is approximately McGough’s Dairy. Most pint size bot- 4 Grady PAUL GRADY 9 inches and both pieces are in very tles from just about any diary have of Attle- good condition. a value of $5 to $15. Collectors that 3 boro, who taught chess I have no idea what it was used find bottles from the World War II 2 in the Attleboro school for. I hope you can help to identify era with war slogans on the glass system and provides an it, as well as its vintage and value. are even more collectible. 1 opportunity for residents : You have a silver plated Victo- They are in the $125 to $150 to play at the Attleboro A B C D E F G H Arian card stand used for holding range. Public Library. Questions? visitors’ calling cards. Ladies would SUBMITTED He can be reached at leave their personal cards at homes Victorian card stand made in late

[email protected]. to welcome newcomers or to leave 1800s. ADDRESS YOUR QUESTIONS to Anne

3. Rxg8++ 3. THE ATTLEBORO AREA a message. The ornate stands were McCollam, P. O. Box 247, Notre Dame,

2. Qxh6+ gxh6 Qxh6+ 2. CHESS CLUB meets on often scrolled and were usually tri- 1800s and would probably be worth IN 46556. Items of a general interest

1. Qg5 Rg8 Qg5 1. Thursday from 6 to 8 p.m. ple or quadruple plated. Cupids and $225 to $325. will be answered in this column. Answer: at the Attleboro Public birds usually adorned the frames. : What can you tell me about Due to the volume of inquiries, she Library. Your stand was made in the late Qa glass milk bottle I recently cannot answer individual letters.