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Beauty of Swiss City Discovered in History, Landmarks and — of Course — the Food

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Beauty of Swiss City Discovered in History, Landmarks and — of Course — the Food SUNDAY, MARCH 18, 2012 | SECTION E LIVING WELL A taste of Zürich Fraumünster, or the Church of Our Lady, in Zürich, Switzerland, features famous Chagall stained-glass windows and is beautifully illuminated at night. Beauty of Swiss city discovered in history, landmarks and — of course — the food STORY BY LINDA FASTESON | PHOTOS BY ROGER FASTESON | FOR THE SUN CHRONICLE e wanted to discover the essence of Zürich and found it one morsel at a time. We began, like most tourists, along the winding lanes of the historic Old Town, W Altstadt. We enjoyed what is known in Zürich as Lädelen and browsed the shops in chic and elegant retail districts. And we rode the tram to a former industrial area to check out the new hotspots. Our search for places to dine gave us a taste of how Zürich grew from a Roman settle- ment to what it is today. Our dining experiences were windows into the city’s past, present, and future — a microcosm of Swiss culture. From traditional Swiss classics in the Old Town’s medieval guild halls to innovative in- ternational cuisine and nightlife in converted factories of the hip West End, there are seemingly limitless ways to feast on Swiss history while enjoying a good meal. SEE EXPLORE, PAGE E4 ̈ Why isn’t there more Drop a line back to the Victorian Despite all of his complaints, humanity in health care? Era with a unique antique Dad is still a dad Columnist Gretchen Robinson Antique or Junque Columnist Bonnie Ryvicker E2 E4 E2 E4 The Sun Chronicle ࡯ Sunday, March 18, 2012 FROM THE COVER ࡯ PASTIMES EXPLORE: Getting a taste for Zürich through history and food FROM PAGE E1 Zürich, in the middle of Swit- zerland and Europe, is easily ac- cessible. You’ll want to stay lon- ger, but with 10-minute train rides departing several times an hour between Zürich’s air- port and its central station, even a visit between flights might be possible. Switzerland, one of the wealth- iest countries in the world, has 96 Michelin-starred restaurants — among the most Michelin stars per capita in Europe. Zürich, its largest city and center of arts and culture, has more than 40 restaurants with Gault Millau points for food quality. There are two Michelin two- star restaurants — Mesa, with Chef Marcus G. Linder, and The Restaurant in the Dolder Grand Hotel, with Chef Heiko Nieder. These should be experienced at least once. Switzerland’s high standards create not only some of the world’s finest experiences, but also ensure quality and cleanli- ness at all levels. There are ap- proximately 1,500 restaurants in Zürich. Options and prices are as diverse as the city. With some insight on where Photos by ROGER FASTESON / FOR THE SUN CHRONICLE to save and when to splurge you can get the most from your expe- Zürich from the river Tasty stuff rience and stay within your va- Zürich, Switzerland’s largest city and center of arts and culture, is on the northern shore of Lake Zürich where it meets Top: Many of Zürich’s 14 preserved cation budget. We researched the Limmat River. In this photo, the Grossmünster, the twin-towered landmark at right is the birthplace of the Swiss-Ger- guild houses, or Zunfthaus, are now our trip and asked locals for in- man Reformation, and at left, is the tower of the Fraümunster. fine restaurants. Classics like Zürch- sider tips and budget-stretchers. er Kalbsgeschnetzeltes mit Butter- Here’s what we found. Whether for truffles, pastries, or so — is a reminder of times when PHOTO SLIDESHOW View more rösti, sliced veal Zürich style with but- Breakfast buffets are gener- a quick lunch, it’s THE place to the owner was paid in paintings photos from the Fastesons’ trip tered grated potatoes, are served ally included in Swiss hotel rates stop for a break from shopping or by struggling artists. It’s classic to Zurich at thesunchronicle.com/ at Zunfthaus zur Waag. Center: The and usually consist of breads like sightseeing. Its signature light, cuisine — schnitzels and such, photogallery most famous sweet spot is Confiserie braided zopf or croissants known airy macaroon, Luxemburgerli, priced for the ambience. Sprüngli’s original traditional bakery, as gipfeli, served with butter, was developed by a young pastry Over a century old and with pastry shop and café. Bottom: Choco- jams and honey. Sliced meats, chef, named for his country, and over 100 homemade specialties, The 17th century owner sold wine lates Merkur & Läderach, on Bahnhof- fruits, cheeses, eggs, yogurts perfected at Sprüngli. Tables one family-owned Hilti, Sihlstras- made from rooftop vines. The strasse, are among the many choco- and birchermüesli — a mix of oat flight up overlook Paradeplatz se 28, near the main train sta- Goethe-Stübli is where Goethe late shops in Zürich. flakes, grated apple, ground ha- and major Swiss banks. tion, is the oldest vegetarian res- is said to have slept in 1779 when zelnuts and yogurt — round out Zürich is on the northern taurant in Europe. The Sunday visiting the minister of St. Pe- young mothers watch their chil- a meal so hearty you might skip shore of Lake Zürich where it brunch buffet with live music is ter’s Church. This vicarage at dren play in the largest green lunch. meets the Limmat River. Lo- bountiful. Tours of the kitchen Glockengasse 7 became an inn space in the city. This dynam- Enjoy local and regional prod- cations are often given as left and cooking classes in English (1800) and since 1919 has been ic area is evolving into a hip, up- ucts with fresh produce, Italian (west) or right (east) of the riv- are offered. owned by the Kaiser family, who and-coming place to live, work, salami and alpine cheeses from er. Meals in and around the Old Swiss wine production began serve simple and elegant three- meet, dine, and be entertained. Zürich’s morning fruit and vege- Town, Altstadt, come with a side when the Romans brought grape- to seven-course meals. After midnight, it’s a nightlife table markets. Just choose a sce- of history. vines. The elegant Zunfthaus zur The multicultural Niederdorf and party hotspot. nic spot, perhaps along the wa- Century-old Odeon, Lim- Meisen, across from Fraumün- area has a full range of inexpen- The train still passes over the terfront quays, on a boat on the matquai 2, is an internationally ster, was the guild house of wine sive and moderately priced eth- 1894 stone bridge and iM Viadukt lake, or at Zürich’s mountain, renowned coffee house and favor- dealers and innkeepers. It now nic restaurants and take-out eat- now houses over 50 shops in Üetliberg, and enjoy your budget- ite of writers and political lead- houses the porcelain collection of eries. Favorites include Lebanese its archways. Our favorite — stretching feast. ers. Refugees came here a cen- the Swiss National Museum. food and coffee and a belly danc- Zürich’s first covered food mar- tury ago to eat, read internation- Many of Zürich’s fourteen pre- er at Restaurant Cèdre, Mediter- ket — has a vast selection of lo- Experience pricier places for less al papers and find someone who served guild houses (Zunfthaus) ranean-style fish at Mère Cathe- cal produce, breads, sausages, Lunch costs less than din- spoke their language. are now fine restaurants. A top rine and Northern Italian food at cheeses, artisanal food products ner, and specials are common. It was an important meeting choice is Zunfthaus zur Waag, Bindella. and wine. Drink in a five-star ambience for place during World War I and built in 1315, house of the guilds Much of what is of interest in The West End less during happy hour at the Sa- World War II. Dine and specu- of linen weavers and wool weav- Zürich is within walking distance voy Hotel Baur en Ville or enjoy late on conversations when reg- ers, united in 1440, and hatters. With the age of industrializa- of the historic center. a jazz band at the bar of the Ho- ulars like Lenin, James Joyce, Meals are served in a Biedermei- tion, textile and chemical dye However, to venture out or sit tel Widder, which is in connect- Einstein, Trotsky, and Mussolini er-style dining room with splen- production became mechanized, back and enjoy the ride, a Zürich ed medieval houses originally ate here. Across the way is Café did stained glass windows over- and by the 19th century ma- Card is a great convenience. owned by the Guild of Butchers. Terrasse, frequented by the same looking Münsterhof Square. chines were the dominant indus- Available online, at the airport There’s good reason the Swiss crowd, and said to be where the Swiss Chuchi, in the Hotel try. The evolution of industrial- or train station and hotels, it in- eat an average of 12 pounds of term Dada originated. Adler, is a favorite for fondue, ra- ization is best seen in Zürich’s cludes transportation on Zürich’s chocolate a year — its quality. Nearby classic brasserie Kro- clette or crispy rösti. In summer West End. trams, buses, trains, boats and Savoring it Zürich-style in one nenhalle, Rämistrasse 4, is a there’s open air dining on the Former factory buildings have cableways, including the train of the grand cafes with coffee glamorous place to see-and-be- Hirschenplatz. been converted to apartments, from the airport, and admission and perhaps an elegant pastry or seen. Perennially frequented Until the end of 19th century offices, startup companies, muse- to Zürich’s museums.
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