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THE WWD WALKTHROUGH: HOLLISTER/5 AT 80/20 Women’sW Wear WDaily • The Retailers’DMONDAY Daily Newspaper • August 5, 2002 Vol. 184, No. 25 $1.75 Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear Extended Play — The latest look in is long and lean. The shape of choice is the clutch, a perennial favorite that’s newly elongated and shown in everything from neutral textured leathers to fire-engine red exotic skins. Here, a pair of perforated leather bags by Ria at Apropo. For more, see pages 6 and 7.

Will SEC Probe Complicate Warnaco’s Reorganization Plan? By Arnold J. Karr coping with the scrutiny of a last month, the company now has the NEW YORK — chief Securities and Exchange exclusive right until Aug. 30 to file executive officer Tony Alvarez is Commission investigation into the such a plan. about to receive a lesson in juggling. bankrupt firm’s finances at the same As reported, Warnaco It appears increasingly likely that time it is readying a plan of acknowledged in its Form 10-K, filed he and his management team will be reorganization. After an extension See SEC, Page 4 PHOTO BY PHOTO JOHN BY AQUINO; STYLED JULIA BY TOPOLSKI 2 WWDMONDAY Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear Handbags are taking on new proportions and embellishments, with 6 exaggerated clutches, vivid embroidery and rich passementerie. GENERAL Perry Ellis is set to launch women’s for spring and has hired

WWD, MONDAY, AUGUST 5, 2002 WWD, MONDAY, 4 Elissa Bromer as unit president and Liz Tippens as executive . Warnaco Group ceo Tony Alvarez is about to receive a lesson in juggling, 1 with a potential SEC investigation coinciding with its reorganization plan. INNERWEAR: Maidenform is springing back to life with a new advertising 20 campaign set for spring and a slew of new product introductions on tap. ACCESSORIES: Vendors at the JA show offered faster deliveries, lower opening 8 price points and versatile pieces that can be worn from day into evening. EYE: A “Fancy Midsummer Ecstasy” in the garden of Patric Reeves… 28 shopping the farmer’s market with Alain Giraud…postcard from Malibu.

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To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is [email protected], using the individual's name. SUBSCRIPTION RATES U.S. and possessions, Retailer, daily one year, $99; Manufacturer, daily one year, $135. All others U.S., daily one year $195. /, daily one year, $295. All other foreign (Air Speed), daily one year $595. Please allow 6-8 weeks for service to start. Individual subscription information: (800) 289-0273; outside U.S. (856) 786-2140; group subscription information (856) 786-0963. Postmaster: Send address changes to WWD, P.O. Box 10531, Riverton, N.J. 08076-0531. WWD® (ISSN#0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays with additional issues every first Friday of every month and one Saturday edition in April and November by Fairchild Publications Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications Inc., 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001-8191. WWD is a registered trademark of Fairchild Publications Inc.© 2002 by Fairchild Publications Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications Inc. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying or recording, or by any information storage or retrieval system, except as may be expressly permitted in writing by the copyright owner. Editorial Reprints: (212) 221-9595 Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and other offices. Mailed under Publications Mail Sales Agreement No. 517054. Canada Post Returns to: P.O.Box 1632, Windsor, ON N9A 7C9 GST # 88654-9096-RM 0001 Printed in the U.S.A. All signed articles published in the paper represent solely the individual opinion of the writer and not those of WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY. For Web site access, log on to www.WWD.com In Brief H&M’S SAFETY NET: Hennes & Mauritz will host Project KidCare, a national child safety program, at 27 of its mall stores on Aug. 24 and 25. Parents or guardians who visit H&M can have children photographed and fingerprinted at no cost and will be given safety and emergency information. “As recent news indi- cates, missing children have become an increasingly urgent na- tional problem,” said an H&M spokeswoman. “Yet few people know that a simple photograph can be the most important tool in the recovery of a child.”

DE RIGO RISES: Eyewear maker De Rigo’s revenue rose 1.7 percent to $270.49 million from $265.95 million for the six months ended June 30. Dollar figures have been converted from the euro at current exchange. Growth in wholesale and retail sales, especially at Spanish retail chain General Optica, com- pensated for a drop in sales at Eyewear International Distribution, its joint venture with Prada. EID, which makes eye- wear for Prada like Miu Miu, Helmut Lang and Jil Sander, saw its sales drop 26 percent to $14.7 million from $19.7 million as De Rigo shifted distribution to use more third-party retailers, which buy the eyewear at lower prices. De Rigo said unit sales at EID were up 11 percent.

NEW EYE GUY: Gruppo Marcolin, the Longarone-based eye- wear manufacturer, has named Antonio Bortuzzo general man- ager. In this new position, which is effective Oct. 28, Bortuzzo will supervise various strategic divisions, including the finan- cial, administrative and sales departments. Bortuzzo, 42, will re- port to brothers Maurizio and Cirillo Marcolin, both group chief executive officers. Prior to joining Marcolin, Bortuzzo was a sen- ior partner at Ernst & Young Financial Advisors, managing the strategic finance division. Marcolin’s portfolio of clients includes Dolce & Gabbana, Roberto Cavalli, Chloé, National and Replay, among others.

DELLA VALLE SCORES: Tod’s chief executive Diego Della Valle has bought control of A.C. Fiorentina, the cash-strapped Florence- based soccer team. Under previous owner media magnate Vittorio Cecchi Gori, the team was unable to come up with the funds need- ed to participate in the Italian league. Della Valle’s spokesman was not available for further information but sports newspaper Gazzetta dello Sport said the company that controls the team, Fiorentina 1926 Florentia, will also sell off 20 to 30 percent of its capital by offering shares to soccer fans. In other sporting pursuits, Della Valle last week joined the board of luxury carmaker Ferrari.

Clarification

The name of the new moderate junior sportswear line from Haggar Corp.’s Jerell Ltd. division is Wxrld Clxthing Cxmpany. The name was misspelled in a story on page 15, July 30 3 WWD, MONDAY, AUGUST 5, 2002 — K. E. K. — She said Gap has approved five can “We always argue the Peter McGrath, president of The domestic industry, a Washington- Auggie Tantillo, But Mike Hubbard, executive “We are talking massive Labuda said shipments from Saudi Arabia is not a member tant in terms of high-quality prod- tant in terms of high-quality ucts and speed to market,” said a Gap spokeswoman. “It’s difficult to get speed to market from . When you are in the same hemi- sphere, it is easier to get things onto shelves and hangers.” countries for production in the re- gions: Costa Rica, Dominican Republic, Guatemala, Honduras and Peru. large aren’t enough, but it is certainly an improvement,” said vice Kelly, president Frank of in- ternational trade and govern- ment affairs at Liz Claiborne, which has some production in the region. “It allows for more flexibility and gives more of an incentive to companies trying to do production there.” purchasing at J.C. Penney Co. and chairman of Association of the Importers of U.S. & Apparel, said: “Lib- eralization of regional fabric in any capacity is a positive move. It gives us the opportunity to de- velop business where fabric is produced cut regionally, and sewn and shipped back to the U.S., and that’s the ideal.” on the other hand, which lost 67,000 jobs last claims year, the increases couldn’t come at a worse time, since companies will now be able to use regional fabric and do not have to use U.S. fabric. Roger Milliken, owner of Milliken & Co., called the bill a “giveaway” that will cost the U.S. textile and apparel industry 150,000 jobs. based industry consultant, said: in the “Anybody U.S. making knit fabric is going to be directly and adversely impacted because the legislation exempts the need to use U.S. fabric in knit apparel made in the , but still gives it duty-free treatment. It is going to be enormously damag- ing to knit fabric makers.” vice president of the American Spinners Association, which Yarn favored the bill, claimed U.S. knit fabric makers benefit from pro- duction in the region. He cited International Trade Commission numbers that show U.S. knit fab- ric exports to the Caribbean in- creased from 7.3 million kilos in 1999 to 33 million kilos in 2001. Hubbard also noted that yarn ex- ports to the Caribbean increased from 19.9 million kilos in 1999 to 62 million kilos in 2001. growth and we expect sales to be even better next year,” said Hubbard. Saudi Arabia have not arrived under the new order, but when they do, importers will have to provide documentation verify- ing the origin of the items, as well as certification from the Saudi government that the goods are legitimate. of the Trade Organization, and the U.S. does not have a bi- lateral trade agreement with the Middle Eastern country. The U.S. The ubiquitous “They aren’t allowing us in Beginning on Oct. 1, labels in Passed by the Senate last The and T- knit apparel knit For apparel, the limit The increases in the T-shirt T-shirt and knit apparel pro- Gap Inc., which made T- “For us, both the Caribbean Saudi Arabia Shipments Detained Shipments Arabia Saudi WASHINGTON — Customs Service issued an order Thursday to detain all tex- tile and apparel shipments from Saudi Arabia due to complaints of transshipments and lack of cooperation by Saudi officials. [to do routine inspections at Saudi ports],” Labuda, director said of the textile Janet enforcement and operations di- vision at Customs. “So we can’t find anything, and we are doing our enforcement here.” Caribbean Basin Bill Basin Caribbean Congress By Passed Ellis Kristi By — WASHINGTON a T-shirt, staple in every closet across the U.S., is increasingly ending up there by way of the America. Caribbean and Central and knit T-shirts apparel stamped with Made in Honduras or Made in El Salvador could become even more conspicuous. That’s be- cause Congress cleared a trade bill Thursday that doubles the and knit appar- amount of T-shirts el made of regional fabric using U.S. yarn that can be shipped from the Caribbean Basin, as pro- vided under a 2000 trade bill. week, the bill will next make its way to President Bush’s desk for his signature. It also contains apparel-duty-dropping provi- sions for Andean countries and sub-Saharan , in addition to renewing the President’s trade negotiating authority. Caribbean limit increases will have an immediate impact on both the apparel and textile in- the 2002 cap T-shirts, dustries. For starting Oct. 1 would almost dou- ble from 4.2 million dozen to 8 million dozen. The limit will then rise to 12 million dozen by 2008. would increase on Oct. 1 from 250 million square meters to 500 million square meters. On Oct. 1, 2003 the limit soars to 850 mil- lion square meters and in 2008, it would increase to 970 million square meters. caps couldn’t come at a better time for importers and U.S. yarn spinners. The current T-shirt limit on imports Caribbean is from 97 percent filled the and will close soon, according to Customs. By contrast, the knit apparel cap was highly under- utilized last year and is current- ly not as important to U.S. im- porters. Importers can still ship apparel into the U.S. once the caps are reached, but they have to pay duties on the products. duction began to shift to the Caribbean in the mid-1990s when companies like Russell Corp., Sara Lee Corp. and moved sewing oper- ations there to compete against cheap Asian production. an essential component in casu- al wardrobes across the U.S., is following in their footsteps and is poised to take advantage of the trade benefits. and Andean countries are impor- —Clark Evan — Jennifer Weil Jennifer — Economists were not opti- “There is virtually no job For the For six months, losses nar- Sales during the half slid 4.1 “Barring something unfore- The Danville, Va.-based firm But industry be- sources don’t However, they say Atkinsons is “Wella looking for more which Wella Yardley, Already, Cosmopolitan’s beauty li- said the only bright spot for the apparel and textile sector is the weakening which dollar, will allow domestic makers to be more competitive with low-cost imports. mistic about the overall unem- ployment rate, which held at 5.9 percent in July. growth,” said Dhawan. “You have seen that over the past five to six months, and that means this is a jobless recovery and the economy is still fragile.” Companies are not planning to add to their payrolls, which will have more of a dampening on consumer demand, he said.“It basically means that consump- tion strength has been holding up well, but the ability to spend will decrease the longer the job- less recovery lasts,” he added. ago. The division’s operating in- come shot up more than 350 per- cent in the quarter to $12.2 mil- lion from $2.7 million a year ago. rowed to $1.5 million, or 7 cents a share, from $12.7 million, or 58 cents, a year ago. Excluding spe- cial items related to income tax expense and bad debt, net in- come for the half would have to- taled $2.2 million, or 10 cents a di- luted share. This compared with losses year-ago of $12.7 million, or 58 cents, including $1.6 million, or 7 cents, for goodwill amortization. percent to $312.4 million from $325.9 million a year ago. seen with the economy, we should continue the momentum we have shown in the first half,” said Lanier. now anticipates hitting the upper end of its previous earn- ings guidance of 30 to 40 cents a share during the second half. lieve the Atkinsons sale neces- sarily portends a larger Unilever prestige beauty spinoff anytime soon, particularly given today’s conditions. unfavorable market Wella. was a good buy for like se- critical mass in channels lective distribution,” explained Michael Winkler, consumer goods analyst Panmure. “The Atkinsons acqui- at sition fits WestLB well strat- into Wella’s egy of looking to international- ize these products.” acquired last is December, firm- ly entrenched in the English market, as 4711 is in . “Having three brands gives addi- tional possibilities for growth,” a spokesman said. Wella cense portfolio includes Escada, Dunhill, Gucci, Trussardi, Montblanc, Rochas, Puma, Mexx, Naomi Campbell, Cindy Crawford and Gabriela Sabatini, among others. Meanwhile, textile mills lost “Even though the textile in- The volatile stock market and Lanier said the division’s re- “Our product development ef- While Dan River’s engi- “Being part of the Until now, almost half of The announcement of Unilever — whose beauty in- another 3,000 jobs on a season- ally adjusted basis in against July June to employ 429,000, which is 46,000 fewer than July 2001. Apparel factories, on the other hand, added to payrolls with an increase of 2,000 jobs in plus another July, 1,000 jobs due to a revision in June, to employ 526,000. That is still 40,000 fewer than July 2001, however. dustry lost 3,000 jobs, it still showed a continuing relative stability as the industry digests the large cutbacks from last said year,” Charles McMillion, chief economist Information Services. at MBG waning consumer confidence could have a big negative im- pact on employment in the near term, McMillion said. Dhawan the quarter, drove sales up 9.2 percent to $37 million from $33.8 million a year ago. From these sales, the division turned a corner in record- profitability, ing operating income of $1.3 million compared with losses of $1.8 million a year ago. turn to profitability was a func- tion of new products and “much better capacity utilization” after downsizing earlier this year with the closure of two plants and an overall head count re- duction of about 190 people. forts are resulting in orders for new constructions and designs,” said the ceo. “These new fabrics, primarily bottom-weights, were the source of the segment’s growth in sales.” neered products business posted decreased sales and continued losses, the home fabrics business shined. Sales in home fabrics declined 8.4 percent to $107.2 million from $117 million a year Cosmopolitan Cosmopolitan network is an in- of to get more out credible chance the Atkinsons business,” agreed Gonella, Francesco marketing Atkinsons. and sales manager at Atkinsons’ $35.8 million business has been generated by the I Coloniali fragrance, bath and skin care . Atkinsons’ portfolio also includes English Lavender others. and Gold Medal, among Unilever’s divestiture Friday did not surprise the financial com- munity. Sources here have long described beauty as noncore for the Anglo-Dutch consumer prod- ucts firm, which has reportedly been shopping around its re- maining prestige beauty busi- ness, including , plus the fragrance li- censes of Cerruti, Karl Lagerfeld, Wang, Chloé, Vera Valentino, Nautica and BCBG Max Azria. terests generated an estimated $6.39 billion last year — sold off its Elizabeth Arden brand in January 2001. Retail Retail employ- With With help from a

Germany’s Germany’s Cosmo-

On a seasonally adjusted “There are a lot of back-to- Net profits mounted to $3.7 Sales for the three months Chairman and chief execu- The firm’s apparel fabrics Cosmopolitan Cosmetics Dollar figures are converted “The acquisition of the the internation- “Furthermore, Jobs Show Big Seasonal Gains in Retail in Gains Seasonal Big Show Jobs Ellis Kristi By WASHINGTON — ment posted big seasonally ad- justed gains, while apparel and textile factory employment sta- bilized somewhat in July, a Labor Department report re- vealed Friday. basis, department stores added 13,000 jobs to their payrolls in July to 2.554 million, but that was still 20,000 fewer jobs than in July 2001. Apparel and acces- sories store employment rose by 2,000 to 1.176 million but in July, that was still 15,000 below year- ago levels. school sales, and stores have probably added for that,” said Rajeev Dhawan, director of eco- nomic forecasting at State University. Despite Sales Drop, Dan River in Black in River Dan Drop, Sales Despite NEW YORK — leaner and meaner apparel fab- rics division, Dan River Inc. re- turned to second-half profitabil- even as sales sank. ity, million, or 16 cents a diluted share. This compared with year- ago losses of $6.1 million, or 28 cents. results Year-ago were im- proved by goodwill amortization of $900,000, or 4 cents a share, while the most recent quarter included none after a change in accounting principle. ended June 29 retreated 4.9 per- cent to $153.9 million from $161.9 million a year ago. tive officer Joseph Lanier in Jr., a statement, attributed the im- proved profits to “better manu- facturing performance from in- creased capacity utilization, lower raw material costs and an improved product mix.” business, which represented 24 percent of overall revenues in Wella Arm Buys Atkinsons Buys Arm Wella PARIS — politan Cosmetics is building its base. prestige toiletries GmbH, Wella AG’s Cologne, Germany-based cosmetics and fragrance arm, has acquired the brand rights and business opera- tions of Atkinsons, the Milan- based beauty firm, from Lever Faberge Srl, a Unilever Italia for $43.4 million. SpA subsidiary, from the euro at current ex- change rates. Atkinsons business is an excel- lent addition to the highly prof- itable luxury toiletries segment of Cosmopolitan Cosmetics,” said Heiner Gurtler, chief exec- utive officer of in Wella, a state- ment, referring to the division that also includes the 4711 and brands. Yardley Cosmopolitan Cosmetics GmbH rang up about $556.52 million last year. al infrastructure of Cosmopolitan Cosmetics offers growth potential for Atkinsons in other regions of the world,” he said. WWD, MONDAY, AUGUST 5, 2002 4 various financial statements and statements financial various of publication and “preparation the with connection in laws ties securi- federal of violation any been had there whether termine de- to investigation” an ducting “con- was commission the that filing, its to prior 2001, April in announced group the SEC; the by probed been Warnacohas that months 15 reacquired byWarnaco in1999. then was and 1992 in public went 1990, in off spun was , markets that Warnacounit the Fitness, Authentic units. mestic do- other its of some or million, $354 for 1997 in acquired Klein Calvin of makers the unit, Holdings Designer the on focused are eyes its whether known isn’t it so investigation, the on ment subsidiaries. European its involving figures 2001 in discovered data ventory in- and payable accounts of ing record- the to as well as sidiary sub- Ltd. Holdings Designer the ofcertainliabilities.” the accrual and suppliers from inventory of purchase the to related primarily payable accounts of recording the arrangements, pricing ny intercompa- of recording the ing involv- errors accounting certain of aware “became it 2001, June in in areviewofbusinessoperations or partofthecompany. all of sale a eventually, and, tion reorganiza- a for aim team his and Alvarez as position ready-difficult Warnaco’sal- complicate ther fur- would investigation SEC an of news latest the whether week last late questioned also Observers scrutiny. SEC increased in sult re- would profits its of statement re- continual Warnaco’s whether August last as early as questioned had observers and Analysts 2001. 11, June on protection bankruptcy 11 Chapter for Warnacofiled lion. mil- $51 totaling eventually 2001, fiscal of quarter first the with concluded and year fiscal 1999 the with began restatements earnings SEC investigation. latest the on comment clined its 1999fiscalyearonJan.3,1999. of start the before firm the with affiliated or by employed were who persons” certain and pany com- the against action forcement en- an authorize SEC the that “recommend to intended sion commis- the informed been had it Wednesday,last SEC the with that one page from Continued Warnaco Reorganization SEC Probe Could Hinder Fashion Scoop , andlater, fortheband’s firstmajor tour, she a teenduringherband’s earlyyearsshe sewedherstage Rock Styleatthe2001VH1/Vogue FashionAwards. As clothes,” musedStefani,whotook thetrophyforbest was inevitable. — the33-year-old singeradmitsthatthisnew project upcoming nuptialstoBritrocker — designs forherself.Althoughafavoriteamongdesigners contemporary linebasedontheclothesshealready Friday nightshe’s intalkstoproduceherown Doubt andduetpalto MOVE OVERJ.LO But this is the second time in time second the is this But com- to declined has SEC The to related were errors These that, said Warnaco 10-K, its In of years consecutive Three de- has far thus Warnaco John Galliano “For somereasonpeoplegetakickoutofmy : is swathingherinDiorfor Gwen Stefani Eve and , frontfemmefataleofNo Moby Gavin Rossdale , toldWWDon oee ytecretSCac- SEC current the by covered period the during group the at executives long-serving although tenure, Wachner’s under utives exec- senior of door revolving its was amatterforthecompany. it saying investigation, SEC the on week last comment declined spokesman Wachner a reported, As claim. the fighting Warnacois compensation. in million $25.1 than less not seeking court cy bankrupt- Manhattan in January in filed claim a of form the Warnacoin with dispute own her has currently Wachner board. its on remains she although 2001, 16, Nov. on post that left She leader. indisputable its was and time that at company the of ceo and going on,”hequipped. was stuff this when around agement whohadbeen. man- in anyone of aware wasn’t and agency federal other any or SEC the of representatives by contacted been hadn’t he said anonymity, requesting ecutive, ex- divisional current one though Friday,al- on unreturned went Fogarty,James officer financial chief including Warnaco, of tors direc- and employees former and larities onpage13.’” irregu- accounting ‘see says that index an with comes get we ments docu- the of none because process painstaking very a it’s and ing review- are we possession our in documents of pages 100,000 have “Wesaid. he surfaces,” bizarre really something unless Warnaco] withtheseissues. American largest the of dozen a about on concentrating is La.), Tauzin(R., Billy by chaired can’t investigatethemall.” “We said. spokesman the ties,” irregulari- or inconsistencies accounting admitted or earnings restated either have that try coun- the around companies of ing toacommitteespokesman. Warnaco,accord- up take to likely isn’t it that scandals accounting Tyco WorldComand Enron, the and Energy investigating busy so is Commerce on Committee House The landscape. fiscal the survey regulators federal as “bye” a get Warnacomight that just year this prevalent so become have investigation. to lastyear’s related way any in is action SEC latest the whether week last late learned be not could It reports.” Warnaco was renowned for renowned Warnacowas chairman was Wachner Linda wasn’t I that lucky feel “I current numerous to Calls investigate “We[to unlikely are committee, the said He “There areliterallyhundreds scandals stock and Accounting of Bush Lieberman year. It’s widelyknow, however, thatherstylistis stylist withwhomshe’s collaboratedwithforthelast identify herco-designer, althoughshedidadmititwasa although itwon’tbeherown.Nordidshewantto boutiquey. We’re stillworkingoutthepricepoints.” to beamassline,”sheadded.“It’llprobablymore turned toafriendcreateherwildensembles. really importanttome.” love it.Buttobeabledosomething elsecreativelyis hopefully grow. I’vebeeninmybandfor 16years,andI this forabigcashout.It’s acreativeproject thatwill ready forafall2003delivery. “Thisisnotaboutdoing mum untiltheinkisdryondeal. Faith Hill Stefani declinedtopubliclyreleasethelabelname, “I’m notageniuslikeGalliano.Butit’s alsonotgoing But Stefaniwouldsaythelineisexpectedtobe . Asforthemanufacturer, she’s alsostaying — whoalsoworkswith in theprioryear. million $215.6 from million $175.6 to percent 18.6 off was retail and billion $1.23 from million $869.4 to percent 29.2 declined cessories ac- and sportswear million, $806.8 from million $626.3 to percent 22.4 dropped apparel intimate division, By 2000. in reported lion bil- $2.25 the than lower percent 7 25. billion, $1.67 totaled revenues Net 1997. fiscal since level lowest Speedo full-pricestores. year,last closures 95 39 after ates, oper- also It year. fiscal current the of start the at stores outlet 86 operated Warnacoyear, last one just opening and stores outlet 47 closing After value. book mately approxi- at inventory store let out- of sale the and Penhaligon’s and GJM of divestitures ported re- previously the including sales, asset through raised monies in od atjustover$51million. peri- three-year the during ments restate- for total grand the places quarter.first the That from ments restate- to related cents, 2 or lion, mil- $1.1 of loss net in increase an sales of$2.1billion. on million $97.8 of 1999 fiscal in income net had it reported had Warnacooriginally share. diluted a $1.65 or million, $93.7 to dropped which income, net 1999 fiscal in reduction million lating to87centsashare. trans- 10-K, its in losses year’s the onto ink red in million $45.8 another heaped company Wednesday,On the 2000. in came irregularities accounting the to due earnings of statement pre-tax reorganizationitems. in million $177.8 include number year’s last and cents, 25 by share per earnings reduced which change accounting an of effect cumulative the for charge million or $7.39,intheprioryear. million, $390 of loss net a versus share, a $16.28 or million, $861.2 of loss net a reported firm the 5, Jan. ended year fiscal the In results. financial 2001 group’s the were investigation SEC the and restatements of tions revela- its and week last filing al counselandsecretary. gener- president, Warnaco’svice P Stanley and dent, presi- vice senior and officer S. William financial chief its Finkelstein, included tion — With contributions from Sales lastyeardroppedtotheir million $42.3 details 10-K The include year last from Figures $4.1 a reported Warnacoalso re- largest Additionally,the $13.1 a includes 2000 Fiscal Warnaco’s in lost 10-K Nearly Kristi Ellis, Washington Jennifer Lopez Silverstein, . and Andrea suspended forms are forms suspended and surfaces Floating metal. and corian high-tech with trast con- stone and walnut Natural products. the to focus to bring interplay light and colors surfaces, rough and smooth materials, trasting Con- jewelry. tume wear,cos- and ready-to- accessories, ,of collection Ferragamo entire the sell will and concept, corporates Gabellini’s in- Goldstein, Janson architect YorkNew by designed unit, cana ern, harmoniousandfunctional. mod- is which design, Gabellini’s to conforming makeover a dergo un- will world the around stores London’s BondStreet on and area Ginza Tokyo’s in shops as well as reported, as open, to scheduled is flagship Stoleshnikov tony Pereulok Street. the on located there, boutique first ny’s compa- the inaugurate to 5 Sept. on Moscow to Ferragamosfly will the And 10. Aug. open to set is which Island, Long Manhasset, in center shopping Americana The in as well as , Lumpur, Kuala and , , Cannes, Osaka, Amsterdam, year,including this boutiques 10 opening is house goods ury lux- Florentine the 2002, through period four-year a over lion designer Michael Gabellini. interior by oped devel- concept store new and rollout retail its on back cutting not is Ferragamo Salvatore but — MILAN No Slowdown for Ferragamo anhd cleto o better- of collection a launched where sheremainsaconsultant. Online, Seventh for sales global of president as worked then and 2001 June in Burns Bill left Bromer Jovine. Andrea at and division career Inc.’s Claiborne Liz line, bridge Co. Kellwood a Burns, Bill at president as years eight last the roughly spent has who Bromer, said way,” innovative new, a in line] [the do and Perry of best the to back go to Wewant ion-focused. really fash- more much — value-driven Ellis women’s apparel. Perry for license the holds which Co., Public the of officer executive chief and president Shamdasani, Dan to report ultimately will both Bromer, to report will Tippens While planning. strategic and management brand of charge in president vice executive as Tippens Liz and wear women’s Ellis Perry of president as hired players toleadthecharge. next key two brought has and spring, sportswear women’s of line a launch to up gearing — YORK NEW By Kristin Larson Perry Ellis Women’s Line Bromer, Tippens to Head The 3,000-square-foot Ameri- 3,000-square-foot The 31 year-end, by addition, In Next spring,theFifth Avenue mil- $70 around at Investing h ioi bad which brand, iconic The be will it is here key “The been has Bromer Elissa Times may be tough, be may Times Perry Ellis is Ellis Perry the luxury firm’sevolvinginteriorstoredesign. the luxury Ferragamo inSoHo,whichopened lastfall,reflects sales worldwide. of points 247 of total a and freestanding, are that 102 ing includ- boutiques, owned rectly di- 153 has 2001, in $628.million about of revenues consolidated tail partyatthestoreonSept.20. cock- a host will and Cove, Glen at Unit Care Critical Hospital University Shore North the ing Antique ShowOct.25-27,benefit- Island Long the of sponsor ing present- the be will Ferragamo showsandcampaigns. runway recent from images flash that monitors crystal liquid and panels graphic feature also stores The nickel. matte and limestone wood, walnut clude in- materials Key collections. the and materials the enhance spotlights by delineated lines graphic and shelves nescent lumi- lights, Filteredrtw. and the collections bags goods, and footwear leather small and scarves areas: fined well-de- three in organized create asenseofharmony. to framing space unique and lighting transparent with paired comfortable fashion.” and understated very but ited spir- for: stands Ellis Perry that attributes heritage the of some with that marry to “Wehope said. Tippens be,” might voids and opportunities some where see and are needs their what understand to past our in known have I and Elissa both tailers re- key the of some of advantage dmm for15years. and president vice a as Marcus Neiman at worked also She beauty. and fragrance cessories, ac- swimwear,, for ment develop- product for sponsible re- was she where Victoria’s Direct, Secret at manager dise merchan- divisional and ident pres- vice was recently most She role. new her to merchandising strategic in experience of years said Bromer. succeed,” will this that mistic opti- very we’re but challenge, way.not inastifling,too-corporate but strategic be can and ership, lead- strong has and financed well EllisPortfolioPerry brands. and Ellis Perry the under wear sports- women’s do will AV2000, with spring for priced Ferragamo, which posted Ferragamo,which opening, the Tocelebrate are stores new general, In “We’re very focused on taking on “We’refocused very 20 than more brings Tippens large a on taken “Wehave is Clothing Public said Bromer — Alessandra Ilari 5 WWD, MONDAY,WWD, 2002 5, AUGUST

A shrunken Hollister’s A western rugby shirt. shopping bag. shirt with embroidery.

The WWD Walkthrough: Hollister

By Anamaria Wilson

WEST NYACK, N.Y. — Hollister Co. is Abercrombie & Fitch’s lower- priced California-lifestyle, 49- store chain geared toward teens. This particular Hollister store was located in the mammoth-size Palisades Center Mall, here. The mall, part amusement park, part high school gymnasi- um and part retail mecca, featured over-the- diver- sions like a merry-go-round and a working Ferris wheel, nonretail outlets such as a New York Sports Club and a Loews Theatre, as well as major retailers from Target, Lord & Taylor, H&M, Filene’s and Old Navy to Best Buy, Bed Bath & Beyond, Home Depot and Circuit City. Nestled on the second of the mall’s four levels near a J.C. Penney and a Nextel hut, the first striking aspect of the Hollister store was its facade. The shop had been en- tirely built out to look like a charming California bunga- low replete with a Spanish-tile roof at the entrance, a se- ries of French doors and fitted shutters. Two couples of male and female mannequins were situated at the entry- way like sentries, but done up in Hollister surf garb against a backdrop of an enlarged, grainy photo of a sul- try, shirtless male surfer and two worn club chairs beck- oning shoppers into a laid-back West Coast environment. The casual atmosphere, with its low-key lighting and upbeat, ska-influenced tunes, made one immediately A Hollister store facade. feel at home. The decor was brilliantly conceived with hardwood floors painted gray, burnished pressed-tin heaven, they still separate “guys” and “girls.” the open dressing area is that it keeps the shopping ex- ceilings and the predominant use of dark wood. Clothes Despite protracted bewilderment and horror at the perience interesting, to say the least. were displayed in wood bookcases, hung on wooden idea of changing in front of other women — teenagers After assessing the validity of a few more ensembles, hangers or folded on heavy, distressed-wood tables. and their mothers no less — I began trying on items. I headed to the register. Situated in the center of the Even the sales associates were properly styled: Only However, finding a spot to put the clothes was difficult store, the checkout was the highlight of Hollister be- young, teenage boys were working the store on that as the one bench situated in there had discarded mer- cause it was a lounge/living-room area set up with Monday afternoon, dressed in baggy jeans, knit shirts, chandise piled high and most of the hanging hooks were woven rugs, worn leather club chairs and side tables flip-flops and shell . They took a very hands- also filled with clothes. Clearly, the solely “guy” staff covered with magazines. The register itself had more off approach to customer service, but their unobtrusive- can’t go into the “girls” dressing room to tidy up. CDs and magazines for sale and surfboards on display. ness seemed fitting. That discomfort aside, the tops were a great fit, and My purchases included a cropped jean , a shrunk- The “girls” clothes line was on the right side of the despite being a little “young” for me, I decided to spring en rugby shirt, a cream, hooded cable-knit , a store, while the “guys” was on the left. The new mer- for them. The fit on the jeans was a little more trou- dark green and turquoise T-shirt, a western-style shirt chandise was featured in the front room and consisted bling, only in that the styles were baggy and not slim with embroidered flowers, navy khakis and The Hives’ of low-rise flared jeans in several rinses, lace-up jeans through the legs, so those were nixed. But a pair of new CD. The grand total came to $177.68. with embroidery, shrunken rugby shirts, jean and cor- loose, navy khakis did the trick. The salesboys, in their first real gesture of proactive- duroy band-aid minis, novelty T-shirts with surf or ath- In the midst of my scrupulous note-taking in the ness, coaxed me into becoming a member of Hollister’s letic themes on them, and khakis in several basic colors. dressing room, two teenaged girls walked in, and one Club Cali. It’s basically a retail program in which you All in all, the assortment was very cute: stylish pieces remarked, “This is so creepy.” And no, she wasn’t talk- get a special card and can receive gift certificates after with a forward, directional feel to them. For this type of ing about me. Clearly, I wasn’t the only one unhappy you accumulate purchases of $250, plus you can get no- store, the quality and fabrics were top-notch, typically with the lack of privacy. tification of sales and other special events. 100 percent in great colors, from aqua blue to A bemused boy cashier agreed to hold a pile of Although this expedition was over, I was compelled hunter green, with a good variety of looks. clothes for me because I wasn’t done shopping and had to pop into Hollister’s brother store, Abercrombie & The prices were reasonable, too, ranging from $15 to nowhere else to put the load. In the back of the store Fitch, a few doors down to see what was going on. It had $35 for most pieces, including knits, jeans and shirts. there was more regular-priced apparel, such as racks of wainscoting and white walls, and was very brightly lit. After sifting through the racks and stacks of neatly corduroys and drawstring pants, as well as tables and Black-and-white photos in black frames were artfully appointed clothes, I hoisted a mound of picks under my racks with messy displays of sale merchandise, includ- arranged, and the overall effect was that of a gathering arm (there were no shopping baskets to be had) and ing , surf and more novelty T-shirts. point of Northeastern teenagers cavorting gleefully be- headed for the dressing rooms. Well, let me clarify that, Back into the dressing room: A teenager had tripped tween their lacrosse and rugby games. Weezer was play- dressing room. Hollister takes its laid-back, casual, let’s- over someone else’s ice cream, and it spilled all over ing overhead, and the store was a bit more crowded all-hang-out-together approach right into the dressing her mother’s laptop. It was about to get ugly, but in- than Hollister, but certainly less welcoming and, truth room, which was simply one long, narrow, darkly lit stead, the mother stormed out, leaving the girls staring be told, less fun. Perhaps Abercrombie should look to room with no dividing walls or doors. At least, thank balefully at each other. Clearly, the “pro” argument to Hollister for a dash of pep. 6 Cole Haan’s straw and clutch. WWD, MONDAY, AUGUST 5, 2002 WWD, MONDAY,

Extended Play NEW YORK — Designers are going to great lengths with the latest bags — literally. The new clutches are stretched out into stylishly exaggerated proportions. These day and evening pieces have plenty of decorative touches, too: vivid embroidery, rich passementerie and even pom-poms.

Franchi’s passementerie-covered silk number.

Bag made from vintage silk ties by Amy Chan at Apropo. PHOTOS BY JOHN AQUINO; STYLED BY JULIA TOPOLSKI JULIA BY STYLED AQUINO; JOHN BY PHOTOS

7 WWD, MONDAY, AUGUST 5, 2002

Leather bag from Elaine Turner Design. Leather bag from Elaine Turner gator clutch. i l l a

s ’ h c a o C Cotton corduroy clutch from Noir by Catalan. Cotton corduroy clutch y 8 Accessories Report Sparkling Fêtes Jewelers Polish Prices And Production at JA WWD, MONDAY, AUGUST 5, 2002 WWD, MONDAY,

PPhyllishyllis Bergman, Ann Martin, Harriet Schreiner and Leslie Mann at the WJA gala.

By Melanie Kletter NEW YORK — The intense heat and humidity last week didn’t stop the jewelry crowd from hit- ting the town for parties and events held in conjunction with New to JA was Vhernier, which presented these tonneau ebony rings set in 18-karat yellow gold. the JA New York Summer Show. The festivities began last LLeopoldoeopoldo Poli of La Nouvelle Sunday night, when retailers, Bague and Elsa Klensch at By Marc Karimzadeh jewelers and executives hob- Gold Virtuosi 2. nobbed at the Women’s Jewelry NEW YORK — The fine jewelry sector was tarnished Association dinner gala, which by the economic downturn, but designers and retail- included a silent auction and ers are seeing a sparkle at the end of the tunnel. awards ceremony. The annual That said, they know they have to work hard to event drew a lively crowd of get there, and at the JA New York Summer Show, more than 500 people, includ- vendors offered a slew of retailer-friendly strate- ing jewelry designers such as gies, including faster deliveries, lower opening Judith Ripka, Doris Panos, price points and versatile pieces that can be worn David Yurman and Stephen from day into evening. Webster. The show ended its four-day run at the Jacob Every year, the WJA pres- K. Javits Convention Center on Wednesday. ents Awards for Excellence to With the volatile stock market and dampened women designers and execu- consumer confidence, some jewelry retailers kept tives in seven categories and their inventory levels lean during the year and inducts one woman into the came to JA scrambling for immediate merchan- WJA Hall of Fame. dise. Others came to the show to round out their This year’s winners were: merchandise mix for the fourth quarter. Robert Lee Morris launched the ● Barbara Berk, owner of “We had a good July, but the year has not been Adobe collection with turquoise, lapis Barbara Berk Designs for fabulous,” said Olivia Cornell, vice president of and jasper beads and silver tubes. Design. Cornell’s Jewelers in Rochester, N.Y. “Now, I am ● Ann Schonwetter Arnold GoldGold Jewelry from just filling in a few holes, but I am cautious be- and Isabella Schonwetter Orlando Orlandini. cause of the stock market.” ther smaller in scale or use fewer precious stones. Fiske, vice president and vice Cornell added that she was looking for versa- Mattioli, for instance, introduced a smaller ver- president of marketing for On Monday night, a cross tile pieces that can be worn for multiple occasions sion of its existing Puzzle collection, which fea- Lieberfarb Inc., based in section of jewelry designers from day into evening. tures geometric 18-karat yellow gold links inter- Orange, N.J., for Manufacturer, and executives came out to cel- Marta Nowakowski, fine jewelry and spersed with semiprecious stones such as coral, Dealer or Supplier for Fine ebrate Gold Virtuosi 2, a din- buyer at Bergdorf Goodman, noted that con- turquoise and black onyx. Jewelry, Gemstones or Metal. ner and gala event. Held at the sumers’ purchasing patterns have changed. “It’s about 30 percent smaller in scale, and sub- ● Stacie Orloff, president at Hammerstein Ballroom here, “People are looking for timeless rather than sequently, the price point is about 30 percent Corum USA for Manufacturer, the event celebrates the win- trendy jewelry because they see it as investment lower, from $600 wholesale in comparison to Dealer or Supplier for . ners and designs from Gold and emotional pieces,” she said. “And that’s what $1,000 for the bigger pieces,” Möckel at KWM said. ● Mary Todd McGinnis, vice Virtuosi 2, a global contest for I was looking for too: pieces that can pass on to Myriam Gumuchian Schreiber, a principal at president at Ben Bridge gold jewelry designs, which the next generation.” jewelry firm Gumuchian Fils, agreed that stores Jeweler for Retailing. this year drew more than 5,000 Carol Fasseas, owner of Fasseas Jeweler in are looking for lower opening price points. The ● Elizabeth Florence, exec- entries from around the world Livingston, N.J., noted: “We made immediate or- company introduced Oasis, a jewelry group fea- utive director at the Jewelry and resulted in 34 winners. ders, especially in turquoise. A lot of designers turing diamonds set in curved platinum, which by Information Center for Sales “The winning designs demon- still use turquoise and coral, and for fall, they leaving space to two sides of the stone, gives the and Marketing. strate a deep appreciation and added black onyx and blackened gold, which illusion of a bigger size. Oasis is priced from ● Jill Newman, jewelry edi- understanding of the intrinsic makes it more suitable for the season.” $1,150 to $23,000 retail. tor, for Editorial, Reporting and versatility of gold as a design ma- Fasseas added that consumers are still buying “Everybody seems to be more price conscious,” Publishing. terial,” said John Calnon, senior bigger pieces for special occasions. said designer Paul Morelli. “We are trying to fill in ● Gillian Schultz, vice pres- vice president of jewelry for the “With the red gold and yellow gold trend com- the lower end of the market with black diamonds, ident at Metronet Safe & Americas for World Gold Coun- ing into play and lightweight chains like the ones coral beads and ruby beads.” Sound for Special Services cil, a co-sponsor of the GV2. at Mattioli, everything is a little more whimsical At the show, Robert Lee Morris presented the and Education. Models floated around the and decorative,” she said. Toy collection, which features signature shapes Harriet Schreiner, who has ballroom wearing gold cre- Many vendors said caution continues to permeate from the designer, such as a teardrop, curved tear, just retired as executive vice ations from designers such as the sector, with retailers buying closer to ship to as- disc or heart for link necklaces, bracelets and president and general merchan- Robert Lee Morris, Roberto sess the economy and minimize any excess inventory. drop . The group is available in silver and dise manager at the Sterling Coin, Orlando Orlandini, Robert “A lot of retailers are writing Christmas orders,” 18-karat yellow gold, wholesaling for $34 to $1,125. Jewelers chain, was this year’s Bruce Bielka and Zoltan David. said Michael J. Miarecki, director of global market- Edward Deutsch, the company’s president, said: Hall of Fame inductee. A well- The event drew more than ing at Michele Watches. “Usually, they start writing “We have brought down the price points in all regarded merchant in the in- 400 designers and executives orders earlier, but many waited because they were areas and have developed products at lower price dustry, Schreiner has spent from throughout the jewelry and apprehensive about how deep they can go.” points between 15 to 20 percent from previous more than 40 years in the world watch world, including Peter “Retailers are buying closer to the season, and years, including more links and smaller pieces.” of jewelry, rising through the Webster of Roberto Coin, Daniel many were looking for September deliveries,” Among the newcomers at JA was Vhernier, ranks at , Roebuck & Co. Bogue of Eurotime and Ben said Wolfgang Möckel, president of KWM which presented tonneau-shaped ebony rings set and Barry’s Jewelers before Feigenbaum of Locman Corp. Exclusives Inc., which handles the U.S. sales and in 18-karat gold and chalcedony and rose gold link joining Sterling in 1996. Also at the event, the Italian marketing for European jewelry firms such as bracelets. The company currently has 12 retail ac- In her speech, Schreiner Trade Commission gave out Mattioli and Tamara Comolli. counts in the U.S., including Fred Leighton and noted the importance of look- the Italian Jewelry Awards to Möckel said the better price points steered the Silver Horn Jewelers in Santa Barbara, Calif., and ing ahead in life. press members and merchan- mood at JA, and many retailers were looking for is looking to increase that number to about 20, “It is remarkable to look disers in the U.S. jewelry com- merchandise from $1,000 to $2,000 wholesale. said Emanuele Aliotti Visdomini, vice president back at our accomplishments munity. This year, the award “Business is tough, and stores are focusing more of sales and marketing. and success and remember the winners were Hal Rubenstein on price points,” said Allison Serwatien, national “Since fewer clients came to Basel, we decided good old days,” she said. “But of In Style, Carmen Borgonovo sales director for jewelry designer Penny Preville. to come here to see them,” he said. it’s also important to work hard of W magazine, Lorraine De- “People want good value, and the retail customer is Top-booking items included a turquoise or for the future. I hope all of you Pasque of Lustre magazine more concerned about disposable income.” lapis stone carved into a ring with gold accents, will explore every new horizon.” and Sue Atherhold of QVC. To that end, several firms lowered their open- and dragonfly brooches. Vhernier’s wholesale

ing price points by adding new pieces that are ei- prices range from $1,000 to $20,000. EICHNER STEVE BY PHOTOS EVENT GOLD Manufactured & distributed by CHARMANT GROUP INC., USA Tel: 800.645.2121 style# 19061 10 Accessories

, AUGUST 5, 2002 Matrimonial Makeover By Jill Newman tony Hamptons customers are Erica Courtney’s From top: Tiffany’s Lucida opting for designer rings from platinum ring with three-stone diamond and NEW YORK — Once upon a time, Antonini, Stephen Webster and pear-shaped peridot; platinum ring; Cartier’s brides dreamed about a solitaire Tahköhl by Tammy Kohl, all of Cathy Carmendy’s 18-karat white gold and

WWD, MONDAY diamond engagement ring with a which offer alternatives to the diamond three-band ring, matching wedding band. Today, tried-and-true classics. platinum and diamond diamond three-band ring, the reality is that brides want “People want a little more eternity band. and Stephen Webster’s more individuality, style and style in their wedding jewelry,” 18-karat white-gold solid functionality in their jewelry. said Marc Green, owner of Lux three-row Russian Gothic What’s more, one ring is no Bond & Green, an upscale jew- band set with diamonds. longer enough. Brides are buy- elry retailer with seven loca- ing multiple wedding rings and tions in New England, which changing them as often as they promotes its own store brand in do their fashion accessories. the bridal category. “We see a This attitude adjustment demand for solitaire engage- means big business for both de- ment rings, but with more acces- signers and retailers who are sorizing on the mounting, such looking to capitalize on the bridal as side stones or pavé details.” trade, which continues to grow One of the biggest changes in even during the current retail bridal jewelry is the emergence slump. According to the Jewelry of wedding ring wardrobing. Information Center, a nonprofit “Women are buying wedding trade association, annual sales of to match their mood or engagement rings and wedding fashion: diamond wedding bands in the U.S. are $14.7 billion. bands for evening; sleek, mod- Many jewelry designers have ern rings with jeans, or vintage- been quick to respond to the style bands for a feminine look,” changing customer by launching said Kulchinsky. bridal collections. Designers in- Here, a look at some of the cluding David Yurman, Cathy top bridal jewelry trends: Carmendy, Jose Hess and Stephen Webster have created bridal rings Classics With a Twist: The three- that reflect their signature style. stone ring, round or emerald-cut Even traditional retailers such as diamond engagement rings and Tiffany & Co. and Harry Winston platinum settings are the over- are spicing up their bridal collec- whelming bridal favorites, but tions with signature diamond cuts, now they are shown with distinct unique settings and wider offer- details. These classics have a GEORGE CHINSEE ings in wedding bands. fresh appeal, with pavé accents on Y “There are more wedding ring the mounting, multiple diamond options than ever before,” said side-stones, wider and chunkier buyer Lauren Kulchinsky, whose metal settings, or conversely, an family business, Mayfair Dia- allover delicate diamond mount- monds & Fine Jewelry, has four ing. At Harry Winston, for exam- KARIMZADEH; PHOTOS B

stores on New York’s Long Island. ple, a new take on a three-stone C Increasingly, her style-savvy and ring features unique diamond

Harry Winston’s baguette and round MAR Y diamonds and platinum wedding band and B solitaire platinum ring with emerald-cut diamond. STYLED

side stones in the shape of a half- are showing yellow diamonds, tween $9,600 and $102,000. moon or a shield. often in combination with white “People love rose-cuts because “Women come in wanting or pink diamond accent stones. not everyone else has them,” said something that is a little more “Yellow diamond engagement Erica Courtney, a Los Angeles- personal,” said Jim Haag, Harry rings and wedding bands have based designer who designs vin- Winston’s marketing director. been especially strong over the tage-style platinum wedding jew- “But they still want traditional.” past two years,” said Hank Siegel, elry, with engraving, open metal A one-carat diamond ring owner of Hamilton Jewelers, work and diamond accents. with unique side stones begins which has two jewelry stores in “Couples want something special $)"/(&:063'"$& retailing at about $15,000. New and two in Palm that they can call their own, not a “New diamond shapes that Beach, Fla. “Sales will continue cookie-cutter ring.” offer the brilliance of a tradi- to grow as clients become more tional round stone but in differ- and more aware of yellow dia- Wedding Bands: Wedding band ent shapes are very popular,” monds,” he said. The bulk of the designs run the gamut from Fred said Bob Cepek, vice president retailers’ bridal ring sales are of Leighton’s tiny, pavé diamond and general manager of Tiffany the store’s own line. rings to Cartier’s sizable chan- & Co.’s New York store. Designers, including Los nel-set diamond bands featuring Tiffany’s best-selling Lucida di- Angeles-based Cathy Carmendy, round, emerald or square-cut amond cut, a square-cut stone are highlighting blue, pink or stones. Anything goes in a wed- with intricate faceting for a bril- yellow sapphires for an alterna- ding band: sleek steel and gold liant sparkle, is an example of a tive to the traditional diamond. designs, colorful gemstone classic diamond with a distinctive “I often get special orders from bands, finely textured gold rings edge. Lucida diamond rings retail couples who want something dif- and diamond eternity bands that from $2,060 to as much as $1 mil- ferent in a wedding ring,” said combine varying colored gem- lion, depending on the quality and Carmendy, who recently pro- stones or diamond shapes. size of the diamond. duced a custom-ordered orange “Today, women often wear a Similarly, the newly launched spessartite garnet wedding ring. diamond wedding band as an Royal Asscher, which is being everyday ring and save the en- distributed by the mega-diamond Vintage: Vintage rings featuring gagement ring for special occa- company M. Fabrikant & Sons, is old cushion, Asscher or rose-cut sions,” said Green. “We are sell- another modern take on a classic diamonds have inspired a new ing more diamond wedding theme. The stone is a slightly movement in designer wedding bands than ever before.” #*(#0-% modified version of the original jewelry. Finely detailed rings with Popular styles, he said, com- Asscher cut diamond developed engraving, pavé accents and retro bine diamond cuts such as %"3*/(-:%*''&3&/5/(-: %*''& in 1902 by Amsterdam’s Asscher diamond cuts are a hot trend. round, baguette or princess. '035)&5*.&48&-*7&*/ family. It retails between $5,000 “Customers are beginning to Increasingly, couples are and $25,000, depending on size, favor antique styles in diamond drawn to novelty ideas that per- cut and color of the stone. jewelry,” said Cepek of Tiffany. sonalize their rings such as In response, the retailer has Tahköhl’s rings, which have hid- Color: Yellow diamonds are now created a collection of diamond, den writing or gemstones, and $)"/(*/(5)&'"$&0'5*.& a widely accepted alternative to blue sapphire and platinum Steven Kretchmer’s Hidden 8887*4"(&8"5$)&4$0.t*/'0!7*4"(&8"5$)&4$0. white diamonds. Companies rings inspired by designs from Treasure rings, which feature    such as Louis Glick, Charles the Art Deco period it dug from personalized messages and mo- Krypell and Michael Beaudry its archives. The rings retail be- tifs on the inside of the ring. G I V E R N Y

330 Fifth Avenue, New York, NY 10001 212.563.2500 Fax 212.564.2879 Email: [email protected] www.stonemountainhandbags.com A percentage of after-tax profits from the sale of Stone Mountain Accessories will be given annually to breast cancer research. 12 offerings. Style File also Accessories includes an item about a recent Coach dinner held in Beverly Hills FINDINGS and details Coach gift ideas and information about new Coach stores. “We began this to give customers a fashion point of view on Two New Accents accessories and handbags,” said Ron Offir, who joined Coach two months ago as director of e- commerce and electronic marketing. “It’s a way of giving shoppers a better sense of what’s On London Scene going on with the company.” WWD, MONDAY, AUGUST 5, 2002 WWD, MONDAY, Customers e-mail addresses are LONDON — With London Fashion Week just being culled from shoppers who London designer around the corner, the city’s accessories scene is sign up online and in the stores. gathering some momentum, with the planned Lara Bohinc. Offir said there is no date set for opening of Lara Bohinc’s first store and a new the next Style File, but it will likely be joint venture between Markus Lupfer and Katie sent out a few times a year. Hillier for a line of accessories. Bohinc, who has made runway jewelry for ● MILAM MOVES UP: Patrick Milam Gucci, Costume National and Julien Macdonald, has been promoted to president is set to open the store, Lara Bohinc 107, next from the position of vice president month. The shop will be in Alexander McQueen’s Harry Winston’s new Manhattan of sales at Scott Kay Inc. former basement studio at 51 Hoxton Square, Avenue collection. In his new position, he will near such arty destinations as the White Cube 2 oversee worldwide sales and will and the Victoria Miro and Stand Point galleries. ● WINSTON TAKES MANHATTAN: As create global marketing alliances for The Slovenian-born designer said she was de- part of its strategy to reach new the designer jewelry company, which termined to find a site away from the city center customers and broaden its price is known for its use of platinum and and main shopping streets, which is why she offerings, Harry Winston is its bridal and engagement jewelry. chose the quirky Hoxton neighborhood. introducing the Manhattan Avenue Milam reports to Scott Kay. “It would have been my worst nightmare to Collection, a line of rings featuring have a major retail shop with a staff of 10 to look semiprecious stones. The collection ● ROTENIER COUTURE: Jeweler Robin after,” said Bohinc. “I wanted to create something marks the jeweler’s first significant Rotenier kicked off the launch of his more unpredictable than just a shop space, more foray into semiprecious gems. new high-end collection recently at like a gallery, but without being pretentious. Here Set in platinum, the rings a breakfast at Bergdorf Goodman. I can do that.” include brightly colored stones such The upscale line includes a wide Bohinc, who graduated from the Royal College as garnets, peridot, amethyst and range of products such as link of Art and launched her line in 1997, said the shop tourmaline, as well as precious necklaces in 18-karat gold and will feature “teaser displays” throughout the cor- stones like sapphires, emeralds and platinum, faceted pearls and a host ridor and stairs leading down to the basement rubies. All of the rings feature some shop. There will be display cases, a relaxation diamonds and each one carries corner with a sofa and coffee table and a tradi- subtle letters H and W made of tional desk for consumers to sit down and exam- diamonds or gems on each side. ine the jewelry. There will also be a projec- apply what you know to something different and “This collection marks an tion that will change with each season and a walk- learn the rest from other people.” evolution for us,” said Patricia through lighting system that is activated by sen- Lupfer and Hillier, meanwhile, are planning to Hambrecht, Winston’s president. sors and triggered by visitors. launch their collaborative accessories effort — “This is a way for us to expand our The space was designed by architectural firm billed “Katie Hillier for Markus Lupfer” — during product offering and reach out to Elastik, which is run by Igor Kebel and Mika London Fashion Week, set for Sept. 12-17. younger customers, but not stray too Cimolini, who are old friends and fellow The new line will feature , jewelry and far from the essence of who we are.” Slovenians. gloves. For spring, Lupfer wanted a natural but The rings carry prices starting at As for the merchandise mix, the unit will not modern look to fit in with his collection, so Hillier about $15,000 and ranging up to just feature her signature metal and Plexiglas responded with jewelry made from a mix of $165,00 for a pure diamond piece, jewelry, but it will also be the launching pad for Plexiglas and wood, and hats fashioned from straw. although the bulk of the collection Bohinc’s new sunglass collection. Bohinc de- “The advantage of designing together was that sells for under $30,000, according Robin Rotenier at Bergdorf’s. signed the line in collaboration with IC-Berlin, we knew each others’ tastes really well, so once it to a company spokeswoman. The the German eyewear company known for invent- was decided who designed what, the design stage collection will be sold in Winston’s of jewelry made of semiprecious and ing the unbreakable hinge. flowed easily,” Lupfer said. “But it was difficult at six stores starting this fall. precious stones, including rubies “I’m obsessed with , so I’m having so first because we didn’t want to confuse Katie’s Harry Winston executives and sapphires. much fun working on it,” she said. “We’re using line with my own line of accessories.” wouldn’t divulge sales projections Rotenier, who started his core sheet metal for the line. It’s ultralight — and it’s also The two decided not to overlap the categories: for the ring collection. The company line about nine years ago, is known a material that I work with every day in my jewelry Belts, bags, scarves and shoes, for example, are now has total sales of about $100 for his silver offerings and use of designs, so it fits in well with the collection.” part of Lupfer’s main line and not part of the col- million. semiprecious stones, and said his Currently, her jewelry sells at Language in laboration. new collection offers an updated New York and Harvey Nichols and Koh Samui in The duo have been pals for 10 years — ever ● COACH’S FILE: Coach Inc. has interpretation of his style. London. since their days at the University of Westminster. initiated a new marketing tool called “We consider it classics with a “I would love to do shoes next,” she said. “It Soon after finishing the same course, they went Style File, a one-page roundup of twist,” he said. would be fun to do something new. With acces- their separate ways. Lupfer started his own Coach products and happenings Rotenier estimated that the new sories, especially, I always think that you can label, and Hillier worked for Luella Bartley de- that will be sent electronically to line will have sales of about $1 signing accessories and fronting customers. million in its first year. Prices for the her p.r. department. When The first Style File, which went collection range from about $1,500 Hillier left Luella earlier this out late last week, features an to $38,000. In addition to year, she started working with interview with Coach creative Bergdorf’s, the line will be Lupfer. The partners are aiming director Reed Krakoff, who distributed in independent jewelers for 10 retail outlets worldwide in discusses fall trends, as well as and at some Neiman Marcus the first season. information about the brand’s fall locations, Rotenier said. — Sarah Harris Obituary Beverly Navarro, Jeweler, 72 NEW YORK — Beverly Miller Potter Navarro, cofounder of the fashion jewelry firm Navarro Alternatives, died July 18 at the Jewish Home for the Aged in San Francisco due to complications related to Alzheimer’s disease. She was 72. A native of Brooklyn, Navarro and her husband, David, moved to San Francisco in 1973, the same year the couple found- ed the firm. At its peak in the late Seventies and Eighties, Navarro Alternatives was sold in a number of key retailers, including Neiman Marcus, Henri Bendel and I. Magnin. The line was known for the artisan quality of its jewelry and its use of semi- precious stones, said Raymond Davi, a longtime friend. The business closed in the late mid-Nineties. In addition to her husband, Navarro is survived by two daughters, Francine Fiesel and Jennifer Miller Ehret; a sister, Silvia Marks; a brother, Paul Lawrence, and two grandchildren. BOHINC PHOTO BY TIM JENKINS; ROTENIER PHOTO BY DAVID TURNER DAVID BY PHOTO ROTENIER JENKINS; TIM BY PHOTO BOHINC

14 Accessories DIC Taps Morrison

NEW YORK — Sally A. Sally A. Morrison Rao’s Low-Tech Approach Morrison, a for- mer senior vice president of pub- By Melanie Kletter a new business due to current economic conditions, but licity at Miramax there are some benefits. Films, has been NEW YORK — Young entrepreneur Varsha Rao certainly “People are more willing to work at reasonable costs named the direc- isn’t letting a little failure get in her way. than they were a few years ago,” she noted. “Also, high tor of the A former Internet executive who founded the now de- quality manufacturers and other suppliers have more time Diamond

WWD, MONDAY, AUGUST 5, 2002 WWD, MONDAY, funct beauty Web site eve.com, Rao is currently setting her to work with me.” Information sights on the jewelry industry. She is in the midst of At its peak, eve.com had a staff of about 150 and rev- Center, the pro- launching a fine jewelry brand called Zoelle that has just enues of $10 million. Rao and her partner sold it in 2000 to motional arm of begun to hit stores. Idealab, which decided De Beers Group’s “This is a great way to fold the site later Diamond Trading for me to combine my Looks and that year. Company. passion for jewelry with packaging The name for the Morrison re- the experience I gained from the new line is derived from the places Joan Parker, who stepped down in April to be- founding eve.com,” Rao Zoelle line of words, Zoe, which come a consultant for De Beers LV, the new venture be- said in a recent inter- jewelry. means life in Greek, tween De Beers and LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton. view. “I think there is a and Elle the French Prior to Miramax, Morrison spent 14 years at the gap in the jewelry mar- word for women. Prices American Foundation for AIDS Research, primarily as ket for products that are for Zoelle range from vice president for external affairs. feminine and specifical- $250 to $2,000, and Rao A native of England who is based in New York, ly targeted at women said she is looking to Morrison said she became acquainted with Parker and aged 25 to 45.” achieve first year sales the DIC when AmFar held a charity event at Cannes two Rao, who is based in of about $500,000. years ago, where DIC was one of the principal sponsors. San Francisco, has no Distribution is still “I wanted to come to the DIC because I am en- formal jewelry back- being determined, but tranced by the product and I am interested in dia- ground, but said she is the line is already monds both as a commodity and as ,” working with three de- available in the Jenni- Morrison said in a phone interview. signers to create the fer Kaufman boutique “This is a complex and glamourous industry and line. Among the initial in Los Angeles, and there are a lot of interesting business issues going on offerings are pendants, Rao said she is target- now with diamonds, including issues of price and how earrings and rings in ing high-end specialty stones are rated.” 18-karat gold with stores and some inde- She said she has no specific changes in mind for small diamonds and a pendent jewelers. A the DIC, but said she wants to continue the efforts of collection with Asian and Celtic motifs. There is also a Web site is in development and is expected to be running Parker, who spent 29 years at the organization. bracelet which has an 18-karat gold and diamond pendant by next month. While the jewelry world is certainly a far In her position, Morrison oversees public rela- that attaches to a strap available in either satin, grosgrain cry from the warp speed of the Internet, Rao said she wel- tions on behalf of the U.S. diamond industry, includ- or suede. comes the change of pace. ing encouraging publications to write about diamonds Rao, 32, said she has always loved jewelry, but became “One of the main things I took away [from eve.com] is and inducing celebrities and starlets to wear diamond more interested in it after she began adding accessories that it takes time and consistent effort to build a lasting jewelry. She reports to Richard Lennox, director of and jewelry items to eve.com a few years ago. She ac- brand,” Rao said. “Longevity is a key to creating a trusted the diamond group at J. Walter Thompson. knowledged that it is somewhat of a difficult time to begin brand that has a solid reputation.”

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Reach rock and fashion royalty -- and the people who parlay their influence into retail sales. Don’t miss WWD’s special report on the long-standing relationship between music and fashion, including how it shows up on the street.

Timed to the MTV Video Music Awards. Bonus consumer distribution in N.Y. and L.A. through Tower Records, Virgin Megastores and HMV.

August 29 Close: August 13

For more information, call Melissa Post, Associate Publisher, at 212/630-4903, or your WWD sales representative. WWDMediaWorldwide® 16 Legwear Report

G. Wheels’ K. Bell’s cotton, rayon and Lycra and nylon . knee-high. WWD, MONDAY, AUGUST 5, 2002 WWD, MONDAY,

NEW YORK — Just because socks and knee-highs are often hidden under pants doesn’t mean that they have to be boring. In fact, these newest looks — twisted argyles, Pucci-like abstracts and pretty florals — are meant to be shown off. Loco Motif

Polyamide, and elastin by Vivienne Westwood Nine West’s cotton, rayon and nylon . for . 0S BY JOHN AQUINO; MODEL: AYLIN ODAR; STYLED BY SAMANTHA WONG SAMANTHA BY STYLED ODAR; AYLIN MODEL: AQUINO; JOHN BY 0S T O H P

18 Legwear Vendors Take Novelty Approach business, so they are buying By Marc Karimzadeh and Legale Legwear A novelty look from Melanie Kletter later than ever,” he said. Some firms expressed opti- is stepping up its Me, It’s Really You NEW YORK — In an ongoing ef- mism about the coming market, in assortment of by ETC . conversational

WWD, MONDAY, AUGUST 5, 2002 WWD, MONDAY, fort to pump up legwear sales, part due to recent retail trends. sock vendors are saying farewell “I expect the open-to-buy to be sport socks. to hard-edged graphics and higher than last year because men’s wear looks and hello to stores have had good early fall whimsical prints and novelty sell-throughs despite the [hot] styles for resort and early spring. temperatures,” said Susan Reese, Traditionally, the August mar- vice president of sales at Soxland. ket gives buyers the opportunity “We expect definite double-digit to reorder top sellers for early fall increases on last year because it’s and get a glimpse of spring deliv- been a good year. Socks are inex- eries. For the first taste of spring, pensive, and our product makes many are looking to liven up the people smile. That’s a lot of value sales floors with a slew of floral for the money.” and prints, candy colors and nov- At Soxland, the spring show- elty takes on the athletic sock. room will be transformed from “Novelty is what people want,” its “ghetto-graffiti” installation said Robert Sussman, president of the past two markets to “Gay at ETC Hosiery. “Basics always Paris,” said Reese. sell, but it is novelty that draws “We painted the background in people in.” a blue wash that looks like the sky, on the eyes, with delicate, small- as well as lots and lots of color,” sortment for early spring is Legale Among ETC’s key items on tap and the showroom feels like you er roses, lollipops, ice cream she noted. “There are blues and Legwear, which is launching are socks with patterns in two and are looking through the flower sundaes and popsicles.” oranges, and teals and pinks, and “Active Ingredients,” a new collec- three colors, as well as lightweight shop into the shelves, holding the Soxland is launching a “super- plenty of florals.” tion of active-inspired socks. fabrics and socks. Trouser different floral and spring de- short shorty,” said Reese. This is Sport socks are another key “We are building on our socks are getting an injection of signs,” she said. “There’s even a shorter than the traditional ‘sporty area for the firm. A new line of strength in pattern business to fashion with the addition of sheer bottle of wine and rosettes.” shorty’ and barely covers the heel. athletic socks was introduced do more active socks with fun textures. In addition to the ETC For spring, Soxland is moving The super shorty wholesales for earlier this year, and for early and pattern on it,” said Barbara brand, the company also makes away from edgier graffiti de- $1.25, while the entire assortment spring, this area will also get Russillo, president at Legale products under the label Me, It’s signs and is focusing on florals. wholesales for $1.25 to $3.75. some fashion twists, including Legwear. Really You, which bowed in 2000. The sherbet color range in- At Gold Toe, meanwhile, new colors, stripes and patterns. The line consists of over 30 Sussman said many stores cludes lilac, pink and yellow. there are plenty of colors on tap McHale noted that fall and styles with stripes, dots, florals, are buying closer to season, con- “A lot of inspiration came for the coming season, said Trish holiday bookings are ahead of dragonflies and cherries. It will tinuing the trend of recent years. from retro fabrics this year,” McHale, director of marketing. last year, although she declined be sold at retail within the three- “Many people are waiting to said Reese. “There are no bold “We will have lots of novelty to give exact figures. for-$12 multiple pricing strategy. see what happens with their graphics. Everything is easier items, including conversationals, Also sprucing up its active as- Legale is also offering several 19 WWD, MONDAY,WWD, 2002 5, AUGUST oach to Spring sock lengths, from crew lengths more moderate-priced line and fashion tube socks to quar- called Filari, which is targeted ter highs and foot liners, and to department store chains. The textures such as jacquard, ribs, line will include more rayon piqués and lace, “which is the and will carry retail prices of $8 extensions of the bohemian/hip- to $12. Biella’s retail prices are pie-chic trend,” she said. Key $8 to $38 and target specialty colors are white, black, cappuc- stores such as Saks Fifth cino, pale pink, periwinkle and Avenue and Neiman Marcus. turquoise. Legale’s wholesale “There are so many fibers be- prices range from $1.68 to $3. yond cotton, and many people “Because the customer has want to try exotic yarns and been seeing fall colors and prod- more sophisticated fabrics,” ucts since June, we frontload said Schillinger. “There are a lot spring and ship patterns and col- of people out there who want Floral patterns are a key trend at Soxland.

ors in November and December,” their feet to feel good.” AQUINO JOHN BY PHOTOS Russillo said. Susan Spindell, women’s na- tional sales manager at American Essentials, noted: “Because of the short spring season, you need to capture business early. We are going to be mindful of how we plan our deliveries when it comes to fashion items. You have to strike while the iron is hot.” This market, the firm will build on its recently launched Lulu Guinness and Lucky Brand Dungarees lines. “With our new brands, it’s about fun and brightness and a reason for being happy,” said Spindell. For Lucky, she added, the company is giving existing con- cepts such as a solid ped a twist with a space-dye heel and toe, surfer girl patterns, hearts in nontraditional colors such as red and blue combinations, and a lip motif knit into the sock at the back of heel. In its Lulu Guinness line, American Essentials is going after a gift-giving time period during the late winter-early spring period, such as Valentine’s Day and Mother’s Day, with socks featuring motifs like hearts. The company is also continu- ing to maximize on pricing strate- gies for its CKCalvin Klein sock line, offering multi-packs and a two-for-$10 strategy, including shorty two-packs with a CK logo in colors such as white, black and a -navy combination. “We intend to corner the mar- ket for two-packs in casual, and athletic socks,” she said. “I think many buyers will be looking for day-in, day-out, volume-driv- ing looks and concepts, such as price initiatives. Stores want a way to build a story by taking four or five styles and fixturing them and grouping them together.” Florals are also on tap at Ozone Design Inc. “We are doing multicolored or monochromatic little florals, such as roses, petunias, leaves and lots of stripes,” said Laurie Mallet, president and chief executive of- ficer of Ozone Design. “And we are continuing with lace prints because there was a strong lace trend in the garment industry.” Ozone will also continue to offer ballerina socks with ties and laces. Wholesale prices range from $5 to $11. At Biella, the luxury legwear maker, exotic yarns are on tap for the coming season. The com- pany is offering fabrics such as cashmere and chenille, as well as stretch , angora and lightweight viscose, said Caron Schillinger, marketing director. Most of the yarns come from overseas. Updated trouser socks are also on the agenda. Biella is also introducing a 20 Innerwear Report Maidenform’s New Way

By Karyn Monget Additionally, a $7.5 million Reznik, president of the Maiden- two-year term loan by Congress form brand. NEW YORK — Celebrating its Financial was secured by cer- Reznik said national print 80th anniversary as the grand tain retail assets. At the time, advertising will commence this dame of the industry, the two major shareholders, GE month in the New York Times

WWD, MONDAY, AUGUST 5, 2002 WWD, MONDAY, Maidenform is embarking on a Capital and Oaktree Capital, had Magazine and of the new ad campaign while enhanc- agreed to make a $15 million Times and will be featured in ing product development. cash investment in the company. Harper’s Bazaar and Latina Three years after emerging In 2000, net sales were $245 magazine in September, as well from bankruptcy, Maidenform million. In 2001, the company’s as the US and Marie Claire has been reinvigorated. Thomas volume reached about $250 mil- October editions. J. Ward, Maidenform’s president lion, said Ward. He would not Manette Schneininger, senior Maurice Reznik, Manette Scheinenger and , said update the company’s debt load, vice president of marketing at and Thomas Ward. the future for the venerable but it was $50 million last year. Maidenform, said regional multi- foundations maker looks healthy, The big news for spring 2003 media outdoor advertising will following a cash infusion by First is that Maidenform is reigniting be supported by New York com- Union Bank unit Congress a national advertising campaign muter rail sheets at train sta- Financial of $82.5 million and a after a several-year hiatus. tions, posters at phone kiosks $60 million revolving credit cred- “Beginning in August on an and mobile billboards on trucks it line in May 2001, secured by annualized basis, our ad budget and buses. receivables and inventory. will be $6 million,” said Maurice She added that over 1,000 Private Label Grows The new no- By Karyn Monget strapless bra. NEW YORK — The latest sleepwear market analysis data from NPDFashionworld shows continued strength in private label merchandise, a growing importance in price and the increased brand power of Jones New York and Nautica. The best-selling sleepwear brands nationwide reflected a combination of familiar names that are considered mainstream and traditional, and labels that represent a more fashionable bent and are perceived as having enhanced value. Here are the results of the exclusive point-of-sale data given to WWD for the 2001 fourth quarter, which covers the rate of comparison for the top-selling five sleepwear brands based on dollar share:

4th Quarter ’01 October November December PRIVATE LABEL 29.5 13.2 19.5 55.6 MISS ELAINE 30.3 16.1 22.1 53.9 JONES NEW YORK 7.5 15.8 18.7 45.5 ARIA 30.6 16.1 21.0 51.3 NAUTICA 27.4 13.2 16.6 47.5

Marshal Cohen, president of NPDFashionworld, a consumer marketing research firm based in Port Washington, N.Y., said: “There was a definite cocooning syndrome, as well as a need to buy product that made consumers feel warm and fuzzy, safe and at home. The second syndrome that occurred was the gift for Maidenform’s loved ones and for oneself.” eyelet lace Cohen noted that “over 50 percent of department store - demi bra. wear is sold via private label brands.” PHOTOS BY THOMAS IANNACCONE THOMAS BY PHOTOS Regarding basics versus fashion, Cohen said: “Fashion today press kits have been mailed na- has taken on a more investment approach. It has to be fashions tionally and internationally to that last, not just the latest fashions. Value is also a key driver in fashion editors, stylists and fash- sales today.” ion and image consultants in TV, Cohen said the six top-selling styles were , paja- radio, newspapers and magazines. mas, , tops, shorts and pants. The new tag line will be: “This “Consumers are telling us they plan on spending the same Is the One That Will Become amount; however, they are also saying they plan on spending Everyone’s Favorite Bra.” more for themselves to make them feel better,” Cohen added. Ward noted there are plans “The new world [post-Sept. 11] is about living more in the mo- in the works to expand licensed ment, and sleepwear can be a part of that.” Maidenform products. So far, li- NPDFashionworld also outlined the top 10 sleepwear brands censees include Teen at in the department store arena: Delta USA, sleepwear at Sleep Club’s Club House Creations DOLLAR PERCENTAGE RANK, 4TH QUARTER ’01 RANK, 4TH QUARTER ’00 and at Weisner. TOTAL BRANDS 100 In terms of product, the newest and most successful intro- PRIVATE LABEL 46.5 1 1 duction is a bra called One MISS ELAINE 7.3 22 Fabulous Fit, which Schneininger JONES NEW YORK 4.6 3 6 describes as “the bra reinvented.” ARIA 4.1 4 4 It offers a comprehensive size range that’s very body friendly, NAUTICA 3.3 5 9 lightweight microfiber for great KAREN NEUBURGER 2.5 6 8 feel against the skin and fashion- 2.4 7 5 conscious styling and smooth LIZ CLAIBORNE 2.2 8 N/A cups for seamless perfection,” she said. MOVIE STAR 2.2 9 7 The One Fabulous Fit line has SHADOW LINE 2.1 10 11 expanded for spring to include seven styles: a classic smooth Cohen noted that two new players entered the top five look, a jacquard style with a brands for the 2001 season: Jones New York, which climbed to sweetheart neckline, a stretch third place from sixth, and Nautica, which rose to the fifth lace number with lace trim, an from ninth. eyelet demi-cup style, an active As for price issues, Cohen said: “A staggering 77 percent of T-back look, a no-wire contour fourth-quarter 2001 women’s sleepwear sales in department and a no-slip strapless bra. stores are under $30 compared to 63 percent a year earlier. As Schneininger put it: “The Private label continues to dominate the sleepwear business.” two-way stretch foam cups are fit forgiving.”

22 Innnerwear Anne Lewin’s blue floral cotton knit . Put It in Print NEW YORK — From sporty stripes and sexy shoes to wild zebras and romantic azaleas, prints are as popular for resort as fancy frills and lace. Here, a few from the freshest crop this season.

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By Arnold J. Karr in advertising and promotional spending. “In particular, this business benefited from increased NEW YORK — Sara Lee Corp.’s Intimates and Underwear sales of higher margin products and significant cost sav- unit managed a hefty increase in operating profit in the ings and production efficiencies derived from fourth quarter and nearly matched year-ago sales levels Reshaping activities over the last 24 months,” the firm

WWD, MONDAY, AUGUST 5, 2002 WWD, MONDAY, despite the divestiture of numerous businesses. reported. “Total unit volumes for Intimates and Separately, Sara Lee chief executive officer Steven Underwear increased 2 percent in both the fourth quar- McMillan endorsed the new federal law requiring ceo’s ter and full year, benefiting from intimate apparel and and chief financial officers to certify annual and quar- legwear gains during both periods.” terly results and said he and Sara Lee cfo Theo de Kool Sara Lee noted that worldwide unit volumes in inti- will be doing so when Sara Lee’s Form 10-K is filed on or mate apparel rose 5 percent for the quarter and 3 per- about Sept. 27. “We strongly believe that it is incumbent cent for the year, with particular strength in the U.S., upon today’s business leaders to work vigorously to re- where unit share of the bra market rose more than 2 per- store investor confidence in this volatile marketplace,” cent to 31 percent. The Shoulder Spa introduced McMillan said in a statement. this past year “has already achieved significant market During the fourth quarter ended June 29, Intimates share” and sales of the brand to Wal-Mart in- and Underwear — the division responsible for the creased nearly 30 percent in the year’s final quarter. , Playtex and Bali brands — generated operating Global knit products experienced flat unit volume in income of $232 million, 19 percent above the $195 mil- the quarter but were up 1 percent for the year. U.S. un- lion yielded in the prior-year quarter. The Chicago- derwear unit sales were up 2 percent in the quarter as based consumer goods giant said that all three apparel- unit share rose to 37.6 percent in men’s and 34.3 percent related units — intimate apparel, knit products and leg- in women’s. Activewear unit volume increased 3 per- wear — boosted their profit performance. Sales dropped cent in the quarter, led by double-digit advances in sales 1.2 percent to $1.62 billion from $1.64 billion, but rose 2 of printables, as that segment of the market rebounded. percent among its continuing operations. Legwear unit volume inched ahead 3 percent in the During 2001, or the first quarter of 2002, Sara Lee quarter and 1 percent in the year, as socks were strong spun off Coach through an and sold throughout and sheer hosiery sales posted a strong International Fabrics and parts of its opera- fourth quarter. tion, among other holdings. Reflecting earlier divestitures, Intimate and Sara Lee’s net income dropped 63.9 percent to $351 Underwear operating profits receded 19.9 percent to million, or 43 cents a diluted share, from $973 million, or $676 million from $844 million, while sales contracted Playtex’s new ad campaign shot by Bruce Weber. $1.19, in the year-ago quarter. Excluding an array of un- 13.4 percent to $6.46 billion from $7.45 billion. Overall, usual items that cover the company’s Reshaping plan, ac- Sara Lee saw net income recede 55.4 percent to $1.01 In guidance, the firm said the Intimates and counting changes and the benefit from the Coach spinoff billion, or $1.23 a diluted share, from $2.27 billion, or Underwear revenues would be adversely affected by last year, earnings per share reached 42 cents, on par $2.65 a share, in fiscal 2001. Excluding unusual items, the discontinuation of certain business in the first quar- with estimates and above the 37 cents reported in the yearend EPS was $1.36, on par with both consensus esti- ter of fiscal 2003, “but operating income is expected to comparable-quarter last year. mates and prior-year performance. Corporate sales rose increase at a strong double-digit rate.” Sara Lee proj- In its discussion of divisional results, Sara Lee noted 6 percent to $17.63 billion from $16.63 billion. ects first-quarter EPS of between 27 and 29 cents versus that the gain in operating income of apparel was For the full year, Intimates and Underwear generated 26 cents in the first quarter of 2002. Full-year EPS is achieved despite a 16 percent increase, year-over-year, 36.6 percent of corporate sales versus 44.8 percent in 2001. currently slated to land between $1.44 and $1.50.

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For more information call 1-800-272-4800 or visit our website at www.jezebelusa.com 25 Financial MONDAY,WWD, 2002 5, AUGUST Weekly Stock Index Brylane Seeks Secret Ballot Election 52-Week Sales Amt High Low P/E (00’s) Last Change Department Stores 5.28 1.77 Bon-Ton Stores 10.1 718 4.82 0.31 To Determine Unionization Outcome 31.20 12.06 Dillard Dept. 19.3 34705 21.81 -1.94 44.26 26.05 Federated 12.6 119905 33.45 -3.85 By Scott Malone added. “We have a strong com- we believe it is critically impor- 3.88 2.23 Gottschalk's 11.6 662 2.50 -0.05 mitment to our employees and tant that our employees be as- 28.07 14.50 J.C. Penney 36.0 110180 16.01 -1.54 NEW YORK — Brylane Inc. their right to make the choice of sured of their legal right to vote 78.83 41.95 Kohl's Dept. Store 44.2155567 64.59 -1.06 wants UNITE to put its mem- union representation. We be- on this matter.” 38.86 25.74 May Dept. Stores 13.8 66094 27.95 -1.31 bers where its mouth is. lieve that a secret ballot elec- During their 10-month cam- 15.75 4.60 Saks - 20032 10.00 -0.67 In an unusual move, the cata- tion that is conducted by the paign to organize the facility, log retailer has petitioned the National Labor Relations Board UNITE officials have contended 59.90 29.90 Sears 13.5 138690 42.90 -4.27 National Labor Relations Board is the surest way to protect and that waiting for an election 46.15 26.00 Target 19.4 297788 31.00 -2.00 to hold a secret ballot election respect these employee rights.” would give Brylane manage- to determine whether a majority For several months, Brylane ment a chance to aggressively Discounters of the approximately 1,000 work- officials have repeated that they lobby against the union. UNITE 37.25 23.30 Family Dollar 24.5 100056 26.20 -5.15 ers at its Indianapolis distribu- would accept the result of an officials said that a majority of 13.55 0.50 Kmart - 156938 0.66 0.04 tion center want to be repre- NLRB election, something they employees had signed union 63.94 41.50 Wal-Mart 30.6 564011 46.10 -2.08 sented by the apparel union. are bound to do by law. cards, but declined to provide Brylane’s petition appeared to UNITE president Bruce specific numbers, citing con- Off-Price Retailers be intended to cut off months of Raynor said Friday: “For 10 cerns that management would 2.65 0.51 Bluefly - 274 0.80 -0.13 procedural squabbling between months, Brylane has poisoned target enough pro-union em- 23.50 12.81 Burlington 14.1 2729 17.49 -1.21 the company and the union. the atmosphere, threatened the ployees to ensure a majority an- 44.00 23.20 Ross Stores 17.1 95586 34.14 -5.13 UNITE officials contend that a workers and violated workers’ tiunion vote. 7.80 4.76 Syms - 756 7.15 0.20 quicker way to determine rights. Despite all that, the major- Another NLRB representa- 22.45 14.80 TJX 17.3 170579 17.31 -0.51 whether a majority of workers ity signed union cards. The com- tive in Indianapolis said the 6.45 2.20 Value City - 1936 2.43 0.11 supported the union was to do a pany has, all of a sudden, now board typically tries to schedule a vote within 42 days of the fil- Apparel Specialty Stores ing of a petition. However, he 33.19 14.07 Ann Taylor 27.1 65597 22.79 -1.76 We believe that a secret ballot added, disputes on the time and 9.14 4.48 Charming Shoppes 241.3 62467 6.29 -0.82 location of the election can lead “ either unions or management to 17.50 9.64 Dress Barn 15.0 6569 12.56 -0.96 election that is conducted by the demand hearings, which can 19.10 9.02 Foot Locker 12.4 133295 9.46 -1.69 slow the process. 28.40 9.10 The Gap - 229663 11.25 -0.95 National Labor Relations Board is the “This is probably going to go 22.34 9.00 The Limited 18.5 121798 16.42 -1.18 to hearings,” he suggested. 39.80 23.53 Neiman Marcus Group 16.2 9410 26.00 -2.00 surest way to protect and respect these Asked if he thought pro-union 26.87 13.80 Nordstrom 17.8 36559 17.06 -1.35 workers would carry an election, 43.30 22.02 Talbots 13.9 23960 26.09 -3.42 employee rights. Raynor responded, “I don’t think ” — Russell Stravitz, Brylane Inc. it’s an issue. I don’t think there Apparel Manufacturers will be any election.” 40.00 19.95 Columbia Sportswear 15.0 17097 33.26 -0.34 check of the number of employ- that they feel they have intimi- UNITE’s campaign to union- 10.30 4.75 G-III 35.3 185 6.97 -0.27 ees who have signed union cards. dated people for long enough, ize the facility heated up this 99.45 66.75 Gucci 31.7 9605 86.79 -2.26 “Several of our employees they...come in with this tactic.” spring, with union demonstra- 9.35 5.00 Guess 550.0 1441 5.00 -1.20 have told us they did not fully Karl Paveloko, supervisory tions targeting many fashion 41.68 23.75 Jones Apparel 18.9 55085 32.31 0.31 understand the implications of field examiner at the NLRB’s brands owned by French con- 32.50 17.30 Kellwood 28.6 8583 25.72 -1.28 what they were signing when Indianapolis office, said it was glomerate Pinault-Printemps- 32.46 18.00 Liz Claiborne 14.6 25161 27.49 -0.25 the card was presented to “relatively” unusual for an em- Redoute, Brylane’s parent com- 30.25 18.20 Oxford 16.4 594 22.61 0.41 them by the union organizers ployer to file a petition for an pany. PPR also holds a majority 16.46 8.32Phillips-Van Heusen 15.0 6019 11.75 -0.35 last year, and many have asked election. Brylane’s petition was stake in Gucci and, through it, a 30.82 17.73 Polo 11.5 23783 20.06 0.16 that these cards be returned to the 597th filed by an employer 50 percent in Stella McCartney’s them,” Brylane chief execu- since the office opened in the company as well as a 51 percent 19.55 11.02Russell Corp. 9.5 623915.78 -1.52 tive officer Russell Stravitz mid-Sixties, he said. Over that stake in Alexander McQueen’s 6.62 2.76 Tarrant Apparel - 265 5.65 -0.10 said in a statement about the time, the office has received firm. Union demonstrators 16.65 8.35 Tommy Hilfiger 8.8 27442 12.57 0.37 petition. over 10,000 petitions from showed up on the doorstep of 29.55 14.00 Tropical Sportswear 64.7 1913 18.08 -0.72 “Some employees have told unions and other parties. McQueen’s new downtown 45.64 28.15 VF Corp. 28.1 21203 37.25 -0.14 us that the cards were intended Stravitz added, “We have Manhattan store on the day of only to get an election,” he taken this unusual step because its opening last week. Textile Mills 4.45 1.23 Cone Mills - 1289 2.76 -0.02 4.48 1.40 Delta Woodside - 234 2.10 0.05 WWDStock Market Index for Week Ending August 2 Biggest Percentage Changes 1.15 0.04 Galey & Lord - 308 0.07 0.00 For Week Ending August 2 1.69 0.07 Guilford Mills - 434 0.22 -0.02 Gainers Close Change 11.66 6.35 Unifi - 4896 7.10 -0.86 Apparel Mfg.: 161.82 Retailers: 237.44 Textiles: 12.14 Bon-Ton Stores 4.826.87 Kmart 0.66 6.45 Cosmetics Value City 2.43 4.74 57.91 37.35 Alberto Culver 20.6 15606 46.44 0.50 -2.25 -14.24 -1.21 Tommy Hilfiger 12.57 3.03 57.10 43.07 Avon 22.9 103582 44.97 -1.73 Syms 7.15 2.88 41.35 27.15 Estee Lauder 30.5 67176 28.30 -0.40 Losers Cl ose Change Department Stores 194.03 -12.06 8.98 3.80 Revlon - 1868 4.20 -0.48 Guess 5.00 -19.35 Off-Pricers 295.38 -16.50 Family Dollar 26.20 -16.43 Discounters 306.78 -14.79 Accessories Foot Locker 9.46 -15.16 Specialty Stores 96.91 -15.13 23.74 9.41 Fossil 18.1 9932 17.46 -0.88 Bluefly 0.80 -13.98 25.20 14.00 Movado 13.7 1167 19.25 0.35 Index base of 100 is keyed to closing prices of Dec. 31, 1993. 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o m f in men’ssweaters ulbnft!Pes a eueto resume fax Please benefits! S. Stevens company all full Great includes in details. & which garment & Designer development, specs with of assisting phases & art- communicating packages, processing factories, & include ofc overseas ties lyr utb optrltrt.Exp. literate. computer be Must player. tion todetailsimportant.Co.benefits. sheets. Fastpacedenvironment.Atten- hs"o"ted r Handbags/ Jr. trendy & "Top" sketch A for work Will hand this skills. Illus to Adobe strong ability Excellent Computer literate.Min3yearsexp. w is w who Designer Assistant v is an Manufacturer seeking Apparel Intimate Major $65,000+ Designer knowledge have Must of Photoshopand/orIllustrator. room. Responsibilities fabric seeks ing maintain- and concepts inquiries pricing with layouts, production. designers company assisting design b/t include liaison a as and apparel act to individual Major enameling, w silver, have j gold, Co. Must of jewelry Assistant. knowledge based Design Angeles seeking Los Edgy W Experience withRetailProsoftware. w A accountin and Position reportsdirectlytotheowner. management. general cash including all financial functions and computer systems of periodic knowledge operational include management, and inventory accounting of statements, Responsibilities similar preparation or program. Peachtree with knowledge CFO and of on abilities hands management (7+ seeking firm million) jewlry/gift costume Growing seeks operation manufacturing & sale whole- locations), (12 retail Fast-growing Btms-Fashion Frwd45K+ A Immediate Designers Colorist, o understanding re talent. machinery and creative expertise yarn Look-ing strong company. for knitwear up-and- coming with work to opportunity Great room. sample garment. Pls. FaxresumetoL in finished working Fax resumewithsalaryhistoryto: development exp. to line Prefer concept for Will from responsible updat- needed. yrs be exp. 3 moderate/better min. with ed designer Dress design. of phases all Computer skillsamust. design of have and head organized knowledge well be to Must team. creative, individual self-motivated, energetic for search In DESIGNER Fax 212-725-7116, Tel:212-481-1941 Fax 212-725-7116, Email: [email protected] oiinrqie.Pes a resume similar Fax in Please & salar experience required. years position 5 of Mini- mum OFFICER. OPERATING CHIEF uhrztos oiininterfaces Position return compliance, and backs authorizations. customer charge routing, store of knowledge My Micheleetc.Exp.inMixedMedia wlyrsucn owr directly work to resourcing ewelry Fax resumeto:212-779-2535attn:HA Judy *JustMgmt*800-5445878Agcy OPERATIONS OFFICER r raie,dti retd&ateam a & oriented detail organized, ery Designer $Open.Presentexp.inJR. Sportswear Designer CALYPSO t ae n hr at warehousing party third and sales ith r,peaigsampling/production preparing ork, Responsibili- plus. a Stylemanager ith csoyC.wt Ht licenses. "Hot" with Co. ccessory prlC.sesidvda with individual seeks Co. pparel ith Designer.Pleasefaxresumeto: Call 973-564-9236JaralFashionAg orking knowledgeofExcelSpread- Please faxresumeto(212)354-5105 Design Assistant CHIEF FINANCIAL/ Please faxresumeto212-239-2766 ccess.-Hip Line80K+ Knitwear/ Post Post [email protected] Designer Assistant [email protected] DESIGNER JUNIORSTo$80K knit tops/fullfashionsweaters. FT/PT/FREELANCE Customer Service/ DESIGNER/JR. HANDBAGS Must hangw/BCBG,XOXO, Tel: 212-704-2033ext.27 Outbound Traffic Fax resumeto212-869-4329 Or Fax:212-704-2041 Fax resumeAttn:Estelle y DATA ENTRY Hang w/Mudd,Lei,etc. y y ASSISTANT requirementsto: our resumeat:jobads1.com our resumeat:jobads1.com SWEATERS DAVOUCCI DESIGNER "Technical" 212-842-4040. EOE. www.justmgt.com Designer DESIGN (323) 666-2684 212-869-1938 . PleasecontactNeil: ChristianeCelle y nn: 212-302-2399 urd rjc is Project quired. 212-966-8685 y a g f . / EMAIL: [email protected] xeln olwu,communication up, and computerskills. follow Excellent ulBnft k.Fradresume Forward Pkg. Benefits Extensive Full Bookkeeper Charge Full (Factories inNYC,MetroArea) a QC InspectionFactoryLiaison skills computer production, MUST. Domes- 807/ up tic follow ordering, goods w A A phones/ofc answer supply mgmt. inc.: duties Diverse w A Salary yrs. 20 over company for Solid be commensurate withability. 860. buiness & and exp in 850 incl. EDI 810, applications yrs EDI 856, all 2 with over familiar have Must Respons. exp. testing 2-4yrs. maintenance, min mapping, w/ manuf. include prof. apparel children’s seeks NYC Major creative exp’d seeks imptr individs forbrandedboysspts8/20. Maj. HI$ DSGNRS -SR.BOYSSPTS(2) Sweaters $50K+ Design Asst$35K Tech/Textile $65K Immediate Designers ouetto,adoealsystem overall operations. Gentranexpa+. and documentation, reac einr-Sot Apparel Sports - exp. req’d Designer Freelance EDI-Order EntryInvoicin Technical Designer.MustHavePatter RECEPTION/ADMIN ASS’T/OFCMGR A.D. FORMANASSOC. Foundation/Bras $100K Making Experience&GraderKnldge. Please faxresumeto(215)243-7223. Call973-564-9236JaralFashionAg In Huntington,L.I.hasopeningsin: /P Experience pc inc.: duties diverse Ass’t dmin individual seeks company pparel /salary historyto: business. apparel of knowledge ith eblcmuiainsil,ilsrto kls n strongteam a designer and and creative skills, written bright, illustration excellent player. 5-7yearsexperienceinknitandwovensportswear. a skills, skills, for communication technical verbal looking and is strongconceptual with collection EMME® The A H POTNT O H OLWN POSITION FOLLOWING THE FOR COMPANIES IN OURMIAMI(DORAL)LOCATION: OPPORTUNITY DESIGN THE AND HAS FASHION MENSWEAR LEADING INTERNATIONAL ISACO OPTTV AAY OPEESV BENEFITS HIGHLY COMPREHENSIVE A AND GROWTH PERSONAL A OFFERS FOR ADVANCEMENT. EEOE. POTENTIAL AND SALARY, ORGANIZATION PACKAGE, ENVIRONMENT. DYNAMIC COMPETITIVE PACED FAST ORIENTED OUR A DETAIL IN ORGANIZED, WORK TO SEEKS WELL PROFICIENCY INEXCEL,WORDANDLOTUSNOTES. MUST ABLE PRODUCTION. STARTER, AND TO SELF OFF ELLIS) UNDERWEAR HAND BE IN CONCEPT TO FROM THROUGH DEVELOPMENT MEN’S EXPERIENCE STAGE OVERSEE PRODUCT (PERRY OF WILL ASPECTS DEVELOPMENT POSITION ALL CATEGORIES. OF HAVE PRODUCT BRAND RELATED MUST MANAGER PRODUCT. STATUS MERCHANDISE LEADING ToddWa SALES ASSISTANT Please faxresumeto212-239-2766 Faced PacedSports Post MERCHANDISE/PRODUCT MANAGER wovens sportswear.Exp.inMAC. EDI MANAGER 450 7thAve.(AGCY)268-6123 Designer to$85KPresentexp. in toddler,4-6Xgirlsknitsand EMME isalicenseddivisionoftheKellwoodCompany.EOE/M/F/D/V [email protected] Fax resumeandsalaryrequirementsto: Fax resumeto212-594-3999 y PRODUCTION DEPT EXECUTIVE QUALITY CONTROL our resumeat:jobads1.com Apparel Co. y FAX: 631-673-6744 or E-mailto [email protected] 212-947-3400 ACCOUNTING PLEASE EMAILYOURRESUMEANDSALARY DESIGN REQUIREMENTS TO: [email protected] DESIGNER y & g n aismre h srayt come to the ready of is who knowledge j looking market with are Ladies We Asst/Assoc someone Buyer. a an for become for to Buyer opportunity Great truck- air/vssl/ customs, DC, ing booking to delivery from to inventory manuf. Response. exp. intransit 3yrs. apparel incl. min w/ children’s prof. seeks NYC Mjr. competitive offer resume Fax We w package. Word and email. salary/benefits Excel, needed: communication and skills Strong computer fac- and designers mak- both tories. with pattern work and to er grading) development, and experi- (spec fitting an technician seeks enced Dresses OSHKOSH indi- seeks v childrenswear of Importer w Tel:212-481-1941 Fax 212-725-7116, Illustrate to Email: [email protected] abil. Excellent must. strong AdobeIllus&Photoshopskills. a is mens in to position Exp. Second w must. preferred. a 4-20 size exp. 2 wear ath- Photoshop w/ letic seeking in Position First Illustrator. skilled and/or company Artists Graphic apparel Major oriented A & detail Excel MAS90, W organized, with experienced is and Bookkeep- who F/C er experienced an Seeks

e er laeealrsm with resume email Please salar $20MM year. exceed per must size previ- company ous and preferred experienced parel 1345 [email protected] nei ouetto,procedures, documentation, and AS400.Salaryinmid30’s. in ence (4-14x) Req: Gilrs for co. trends w/ wear exp & children’s knowl leading For Licensed byMadisonMaidensInc. Please faxresumeto(215)243-7223. oin asmallbutgrowingchain! [email protected] da ihmnmm3yasexperi- years 3 minimum with idual Jr, Missy&PlusSize R / n iaca ttmns Ap- statements. financial and G/L /R, t aayrqieet o212-643- to requirements salary ith ork inmissydiv,size6-14. GRAPHIC ARTISTS r.Rsosblte nld A/P, include Responsibilities ord. Please faxresumeto:212-239-2766 Please faxresumeto212-239-2766 GIRLS TRENDYILLUSTRATOR frtforwarders,andoverseascomm. ADMINISTRATOR Please faxresume&salreqsto Import Technical Import Traffic y GRAPHIC ARTIST/TO$55K requirementsto FULL CHARGE Buyer Wanted!! BOOKKEEPER William:212-947-3110 Manager Designer IMPORT 212-869-5175 ,ONEOFTHE Julio@jn y i.com / WWD, MONDAY, AUGUST 5, 2002 27 . y at: (917) 576-7476t y Hill, N.J. 08002 y INTERCORP. @ 818-881-0880 305-499-3705 Fax: 212-213-9641 y ALL REGIONS! Call 201-569-1350 ext 2 Sales Reps Cherr 507 Rhode Island Avenue Fax: (213) 622-2531 www.raskinexecsearch.com FABRIC SALES Call: (213) 622-2158 ton Co. Fax: 401-421-0390 production manager available! y RASKIN EXECUTIVE SEARCH Sleepwear Sales Textile Company in need of an experienced salesperson. Resortwear Reps Production Manager ear line seeks experienced sales reps Please call Barr Experienced & Technical full charge Apparel/Accessory/Textile Specialists Fashion Jewelry Reps Fashion NYC Rep w/Showroom for EasternCall Emor & Central US territories. LA-based contemporary beach &w cruise Updated missytravel. Fax: since 1979. Need reps who resort wear line est’d Major Turkishsleepwear mfr. seeks ofexp’d rep leading with for connections ladies to& volume stores. Please mail resume: US. Major, Must Dept. be *****APPAREL EMPLOYERS***** Do you need exp’d DESIGNERS, PRO- DUCTION, TECHNICAL, SALES etc. staff? CALL 973-564-9236 Jaral Ag Est’d. US mfr.catalog, seeks specialty reps &contacts. with department All hi-end store Cla regions. Great potential! Fashionupdated. T-shirts, Great opportunitysales for embellished team. aggressive Mustto majors. Mfg w/ vertical setup. and have great connections Ileen Raskin 212-213-6381 Nancy Bottali,Accessory 212-213-6386 Ed Kret, Textiles/Apparel 212-213-6384 323-269-0090 fax: 212.245.0438 APPAREL [email protected] 800-996-4469 TOP DOLLAR 212-695-9721 Attn: Sales OR CLOSEOUT SALESPERSON Sales Rep Wanted WALT ADAMS INC. FOR RETURNS,IR’S dies outerwear line. Commission based. Textile/Men’s SALES PROFESSIONAL Pls contact Ms. Niki @ 212.245.8877 or Children’s importer& seeks seasoned aggressive regional person chains with4 -18 sportswear line. Fax resume to: to contacts sell at exciting boys (specializes in knits) based within a New York sales public City office ed seeks highly sales company motivat- representatives forMisses Junior and brandedexperience business. with FASHION Must KNITShave and strong have relationships withdepartment chain & stores.LDP. CAN Salary commensurate DOrience. with L/C expe- ONLY WANTS OR BEST! Please email all resumes to: TO HIRE THE MANUFACTURERenced SEEKS Independent Salesalready attending Experi- Rep MAGIC who26-29 SHOW Aug. is forla established French label’s Sales Rep forfabric men’s/women’s specialty (computerseek jacquard Sales knit).resume to June at: Rep Also for men’s wear. Fax f Sales y [email protected] dresses seeks self-driven, motivator and

! Call 973-564-9236 Ag y Fax resume 212-997-1062 or SALES MANAGER E-Mail: [email protected] JOIN OUR TEAM!! OSHKOSH leader to grow theperience business. Candidate working muststores. have ex- Excellent with opportunityfer for career competitive department growth. salary/benefits We package. or email with salary requirements to (212) 643-1345 of- and specialty Faxresume Please fax resume to: 212-944-3137 e are looking for sales trainee/ recep- opportunities. tionist to joinopportunity our team. This forNewly is a constructed great thethe offices located right heart401K/Medical. in person!! of the garment center. If you havetion the to energyyou!! succeed, & we We determina- and are are well interested aladies’ est’d in and off dynamic, men’s brand priceW aggressive, name distributor apparel. o PEUGEOT, amfg leading seeksleader fashion a to self watch manage10 driven and yrs of grow motivator previousin the managerial/sales & the exp biz. accessory 5- industry.relationships w/ major Established retailersSalary a must! plusGood lucrative growth potential.portunity for the right person. incentive Excellent pkg. op- Sales $ open. Presentto exp. specialty in stores jr.erate or denim dept priced. stores. HangHot compan Mod- w/ LEI, Mudd, etc. . w y ) R y y y Send confidential resume to: nn at 212-302-2399 (949) 240-0975 Attn: MB or KC y East & West coast 212-398-1327 212-763-2450 . Call 973-564-9236 Ag y Will relo to Phila. Salary/benefits commensurate with experience. EMMELLE RETAIL LINK RETAIL TRIM BUYER Technical Designer $60K. Prsnt exp in bras & . PRIVATE LABEL SALES growing chain. Will relo to NJ growing chain. SALESPERSON in off priced kidswear req’d. Fast in off priced kidswear Expanding So. Calif.articulate, private motivated self labelproven starter belt with track manufacturer solid recordsales. relationships seeks in and men’s Strong and/oropportunities, selling women’s develop private skills new label current business in a competitive market. relationships, with as ability well as to increasing recognize new Retail Buyer $ Open. Present exp. Retail Buyer Please fax resume to: 212-239-2766 arehouse Distribtn Coord $40-50K. almart/RetailLink experience a plus. almart/RetailLink experience Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Fashion Ag Call 973-564-9236 ith factories in . Computer lit- ith designersill be and communicating with suppliers suppliers. ith salary requirements to: ith knowledge of apparel business pparel company seeks individual Fax resume to L Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Fashion (ag Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Fashion Technical Designer TECHNICAL DESIGNE Excellent communication and follo both domestic and overseas.skills Computer required. Please Fax resume Comput’zd. Exp inFreight inventory forwardersstores. Mdtn Co. Call 973-564-9236 Ag control, for shipment to and highcommunication volume accounts. and Excellent computer skills. erate. Fluent infax resume to: Turkish a plus. Please Leadinghighly suit motivatedyears individual manufacturer experience withand to 3-5 seeks develop purchase,and trim source production. forw Must be both able to sampling work up skillsw are a must. The candidate w W Madison Avenueseeks sales Designer associate &person Boutique assistant with sales- aperience. minimum of Must 3and professional. Full or Part Time. years be ex- Tel: 212-570-6559 Fax: 212-249-1427 highly motivated A w W Retail Planner $50 toPhiladelphia 65K. area. South NJor Present near exp. Excel,Career Oppt in STS, or Access. Growing chain. Contemporary dressco. seeks andyears Tech sportswear experience. Spec Mustable with be in a patternmaking, knowledge- specs,construction, min garment ofComputer skills a must. 3 and graded specs. Ladies’knitwear importer seeks profes- sional to handle alldures. aspects Responsibilities of fit includerections, proce- fit grading cor- andw communications f y Assistant to: 732-821-0427 Production Mgr. Please fax resume to 212-279-9158 Please fax resume to: 212-239-2766 ell known design house looking for /min. 3 yrs. related exp. Daily ho is enthusiastic and possesses ttn: Stefaine Fax resume & salary requirements Receptionist/Showroom PUBLIC RELATIONS qualified in-house personareas to handle in all fast-pacedbe environment. Must organizedand with communicationships excellent with skills. stylists writing Salary commensurate with experience. Relation- and editors a plus. corresp. tofrom factory,knowldg product handle of imports.& garment organizational Strong develop. skills. computer +. Travel Please exp fax to is resume a to (212) shipg. 714-0401, good organizational skills for thising excit- andtown Manhattan. diversified position in mid- Retail Buyerpriced $ ladies HiStrong Open. missy relationsrelo to NJ. Call 973-564-9236 Ag Exp. w/ plus in branded sportswear. of cos. will w A W Fast-paced ladies appareler manufactur- is seeking aw high energy, self-starter PRODUCTION ASST. Large childrenswearProduction company Asst.Candidate seeks should w/ be computer entryorganized literate, level andexcellent follow up skills. exp. detail oriented with Estab. Infants Wear Co. seeks indiv. l , to 212-564-6166 or fax 866-422-7740 Email: [email protected] ahoo.com y HANDISER (San Francisco) C R 212-355-2830. E hrjoblist@ M indicating position applying for in the subject line Working with design team,casualwear create fashion line. forward Responsible contemporary and for turn. financial Planbased goals, and on gross shipping revise margin open dates startegies and to for seasonal/fiscal buydegree merchandise calendars or and awareness flow related experience, andto high spot strategy. fashion trends. sense Product Requiresexperience development and background Bachelor’s ability essential. and Strong market organizationalto skills take and initiative. ability recent Must experience thrivemarket. on merchandising Stong change. PC apparel Atfashion industry. skills. least Must for 4 be team the years player same and love the ith 2+ years experience to assist dobe Illustrator and Photoshop exp a Personal Secretary ve seeks a detailed-oriented individua Production Assistant ersatile and have excellent computer Merchandiser/Product Mgr. Private Label Merchandiser E-mail resume and salary requirements productioninclude area.tracking creatingcomputer literate, proficient in Excel. deliveries, purchase Responsibilities etc. orders, Must be plus. Pls fax resume to: 213-747-4357. & communication skills.both Will assist personalfunctions. in and Minsecretary. Please fax resume to: 3 garment yrs related experience as Ladies dress designer/importerA on 7th w For highexecutive couple. power Mustv be garment well organized company Exp’d. & motivated.signers Also for seekingseparates. Fax resume to: contemporary De- career-wear A Leading denimseeks brand seasoned located Merchandiser/Product Mgr. in L.A. chandising for Responsibilities multiple divisions,dinating coor- include productionlaborating mer- process, w/ and designIdeal col- candidate and must salesin have teams. apparel 5+ industry, yrsstrated and exp have success demon- in similar capacity. 28

B at the Jimenez Flutter By party.

Shiva Rose and daughter Collette “Coco” McDermott. WWD, MONDAY, AUGUST 5, 2002 WWD, MONDAY,

Marisa Tomei

Dominique Swain at Elisa Jimenez the Express bash. Ryan McGinley Karolina Kurkova in Express. JIMENEZ, GIRAUD AND GIRAUD EXPRESSJIMENEZ, BOYE; TYLER BY PHOTOS MCGINLEY BY PHOTO DONATO SARDELLA

The lush Los Feliz garden of art patron Patric Reeves (mother of Keanu) came west to life on Thursday night when a fleet of homespun forest nymphs fluttered You’ve got to come LIFOR CA N through as part of a performance organized by New York designer Elisa out to Malibu! It’s our , I WD U A Jimenez. version of the Hamptons. B ® W I In honor of “Fancy Midsummer Ecstasy,” the designer’s friends and their But it’s a lot more mellow. L

eye A

daughters pranced under the weeping willow trees in time to opera sung by PostcardEvery summer, we rent a house M Sasha Lazard, stopping occasionally to offer fruit to the other guests. Of course, they all wore right on the beach. I leave the 2 Jimenez’s signature deconstructed looks, each dipped in tea, wine, honey or cinnamon water Manolos at home and wear flip-flops 200 to achieve their muted hues. in every color. Peter loves being by the “This was her first time modeling, and probably her last,” laughed Shiva Rose water, and it’s great for Gia because she McDermott, who watched daughter Coco twirl around the yard in gold lamé. surfs, though she’s way too shy to ask Linda Ramone were all here. Very casual Jimenez, coated in fairy dust and wearing a horn affixed to her forehead, disagreed. “All Kelly Slater — the world surf champ who — hot dogs for hors d’oeuvres, then ribs, the girls had their hair and makeup done, like, 12 times. They’re supermodels in the hangs out down here — for tips. chicken and cheeseburgers. Of course, making,” she pronounced. The best thing about Malibu is that we also had a lot of mojitos. But Marisa Tomei, dressed in her own clothes, summed up the spirit of the party best: “It’s we’re outside the city, but still close But when we’re not in the mood to the perfect celebration of midsummer,” she said, “and frankly, if you were wearing a horn, enough to have friends drop in. Frankie cook, it’s all about Nobu. Saw Ozzy you’d be leaping too.” [Rayder] and Roman [Coppola] always Osbourne there last Friday. His daughter But the evening was far from over. At Agnes b., Liz Goldwyn and Matt Damhave joined East come down, so do Peter’s cousins Kelly rides around on her bicycle in Village wunderkind photographer Ryan McGinley, who hung his first Los Angeles show in Balthazar [Getty] and Rosetta [Getty], Cross Creek. She’s so cute! It’s like being the store and marveled at the city’s unique attractions. “I’ve been here one day, and I’ve along with the rest of the family. in a small town here. already seen Hugh Hefner with, like, 15 bunnies at the Downtown Standard,” McGinley said. Saturday’s become bonfire and bar- I’m going kayaking now. It’s so amaz- Later yet, though there weren’t any bunnies among them, plenty of PYTs bounded about becue night. I love bonfires because it ing because the dolphins will be right at the last Express party in a trio that included bashes in New York and in Miami, where takes everyone back to childhood. Last there with me. Leonardo Di Caprio and Tobey Maguire caused a stir. “This party’s actually a lot quieter than weekend, we had birthday s’mores for the one in Miami,” Jennifer Esposito yelled over the din. “There were too many screaming Peter. Selma Blair, Gina Gershon, Lisa teenagers there who wanted to see Spider-Man.” Eisner, Roman Alonso and Johnny and Instead, model Karolina Kurkova provided the entertainment, doing what she does best: wear jeans. “I’m getting very used to pointing to my backside,” she said. “I’ve learned all about working the jeans, baby.” Jacqui and Peter Getty, and her daughter Gia Coppola, are vacationing in Malibu.

for organic lemon cucumbers. “Have you ever seen that in your life?” he marvels, bagging a few. “I have no idea what it is. I’m envisioning a rack of lamb from Colorado for two Market Watch served with chickpea flowers and teeny tomatoes stuffed with confit.” SANTA MONICA, Calif. — A good chef ’s work begins before Shopping with Giraud is full of ups and downs. A few most gourmands are even out of bed. Situated two blocks plump strawberries offered at the stand are quickly rejected, from the beach in Santa Monica, the farmer’s market attracts proving to be too acidic. “Too much water in the soil,” he nearly every top chef in town — most of whom visit before grunts. “Sometimes the uglier strawberries taste better.” 7:00 a.m. — as well as foodies who get up early in search of Only a few moments later, Giraud is rhapsodic again, gush- organic produce. ing over a display of haricot verts. “These are best in the mar- One morning last week, Alain Giraud, armed with the per- ket,” he proclaims. “You can tell they’re fresh because they fect straw Provençale shopping bag, sampled the local wares. still have tiny white flowers attached to the ends. And listen After heading the kitchens of Lavande and Citrus, the French to the snap it makes when you break it — it doesn’t bend.” chef will open Bastide, his ode to Provence, later this month. “Is your place open yet?” ask fellow chefs from Melisse, La “What I like to do is walk around just once, to see what’s Boheme and Little Door as Giraud makes his way through the here,” he says. “I don’t like to buy right away, even though I market. “Soon, soon,” he tells them. Bastide — literally, coun- almost always buy from the same places.” try house — was designed by Andree Putman in the manner of On today’s list: tiny potatoes, red and green figs, heirloom a traditional French home. But the market, too, reminds tomatoes and berries. “Last week it was melons because Giraud of life in Provence. “The quality here is nearly the CChefhef Alain Giraud we’re doing a melon cannelloni with a sweet wine sauce and same as in France,” he announces. “The only frustration is the of Bastide shops crab,” he says. “Alors, let’s walk!” mushrooms. Ah well, at least truffles travel well.” inin SantaSanta Monica.Monica. But it isn’t long before Giraud is sidetracked by a sign — Marcy Medina