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Home , Bikini, Brett Ratner, Camisole, Drowned World Tour, Hoodie, Jeremy Scott

The Inside: RentsPg. 12 LUXURY BOARDWALK/15 BULGARI’S INN STYLE/16 WWD WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The THURSDAYRetailers’ Daily Newspaper • May 20, 2004 • $2.00 List EXCLUSIVE: ’s Tour — When Madonna kicks off her “Reinvention” tour here Monday night, she’ll be bringing along lots of her friends — at least fashion-wise. The icon has asked such designers as Christian Lacroix, who did the crystal-studded seen here; Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel; Dolce & Gabbana, and Stella McCartney to reinterpret some of the key looks from her past extravaganzas. And the styles are sure to reverberate through the fashion . As Arianne Phillips, stylist and designer for the tour, told WWD: “No one can deny the unique relationship Madonna has with fashion and fashion has with Madonna.” For more on the tour, see page 3.

Target Counting Down: Sale of Field’s, Mervyn’s Seen by Fall By Katherine Bowers Wednesday at the Art Institute qualifying “interested retailers and MINNEAPOLIS — Target Corp. said it here, Douglas others” with whom they will share expects to complete the disposals Scovanner promised a “definite financial specifics. of Marshall Field’s and Mervyn’s announcement about both But the pending sales didn’t meet by September. businesses” within 60 to 90 days. He with universal approval from some At its annual meeting, held said the company is in the process of See Target, Page 5 WWDTHURSDAY Sportswear GENERAL Target Corp’s. cfo promised shareholders a “definite announcement” about 1 the sale of Marshall Field’s and Mervyns within 60 to 90 days. ™ Madonna’s 18-city North American Reinvention Tour will feature custom A weekly update on consumer attitudes and behavior based 3 pieces from 14 designers, certainly a record if such things were kept. on ongoing research from Incorporated EYE: The bling was flying at the Asprey store opening on ’s Bond 4 Street…Cannes security guards in the spotlight…a yacht of a scoop. Charming Shoppes, Barn, Goody’s Family , Hot Topic and UNDER ESTIMATES 5 Talbots reported sizable first-quarter earnings gains. Color, cut and comfort drive today’s intimate apparel purchases FASHION: Resort are hitting the beach in delicate florals, pastel stripes and whimsical swirls in styles such as triangle tops and string-tied bottoms. Most people are familiar with the three “C’s” And even if the or panty isn’t 100% cotton 6 when buying a diamond: color, cut and clarity. throughout, the inserts are likely pure cotton and Jones Apparel Group ceo Peter Boneparth, one of fashion’s biggest deal But replace clarity with comfort, and you likely remain important to women. “Verde Veronica, 11 makers, expects more consolidation, he said at the firm’s annual meeting. have a formula that defines the factors integral to which makes a fabulous bra, is lined in cotton and There’s a new game coming to Atlantic City and it’s called The Pier at today’s intimate apparel purchases. offers an amazing fit. Women love it,” relates Apsan 15 Caesars, a $145 million luxury retail, dining and entertainment complex. “Comfort is clearly the most important of La Petite Coquette. Obituary...... 14 consideration for women when they’re making She sells the garment in her boutique and says Classified Advertisements ...... 18-19 an intimate apparel purchase, particularly in the bra is flying off the shelves, despite its hefty To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is underwear,” shares Linda $90 price tag. “This is an example [email protected], using the individual’s name. DeFranco, creative trend fore- of when something works, it WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPYRIGHT ©2004 caster for Cotton Incorporated. works, regardless of price. It fits FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. “But right now, it’s also about so beautifully. Once we have a VOLUME 187, NO. 106. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in January, May, June and November; two additional issues in February, April, September, October and December; and three color. There are great, punchy customer try it on, she’s hooked. additional issues in March and August, by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 7 colors that women are using for It looks fantastic.” Shares Apsan, West 34th Street, , NY 10001. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Steven T. Florio, Vice Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, C.O.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice-President and C.F.O.; Jill Bright, an overall layering effect. “I will only wear items with cotton Executive Vice-President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice-President_ Chief Information Officer; David Orlin, Senior They’re looking for bright hues inserts. It’s that important.” Vice-President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice-President_Real Estate; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice- President_General Manager, Advance Magazine Group Shared Services Center. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at that make them feel good.” Apsan encourages her customers additional mailing offices. Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40032712. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration In addition to cuts aside from to try on her selection of No. 88654-9096-RM0001. Canada post return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P.O. Box 1632, Station A, Windsor, ON N9A7C9. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. the everyday bras and , with a T- to emphasize how FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR says DeFranco, “, the right fit can make for a DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four weeks is required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. First copy of new and boy are great stylish silhouette. She reports subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production “Comfort is clearly the most silhouettes that women are that women are buying bras in correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. For permissions and reprint requests, important consideration for women please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild adding to their wardrobes.” vibrant and varied colors, and magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully when they’re making an intimate When asked what she sees pairing it with complementary screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive apparel purchase, particularly these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. as important, Susan DeMusis, T- and allowing the WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED in underwear.” MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND of corporate – Linda DeFranco color to show through. “Why TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART research for Carole Hochman not, when the bra is so beautiful WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED Cotton Incorporated TO DO SO BY WWD IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE Designs, manufacturer of its and looks great?” ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED OVERNIGHT-DELIVERY RETURN ENVELOPE, POSTAGE PREPAID. own eponymous designs as well as intimate apparel “Showing straps is still okay, too,” DeFranco collections for Betsey Johnson, , adds. “If you’re spending the money, you want to and Lauren by , relates, “All colors; show it.” And show it you should, particularly brights, really fun colors, and lavenders and pinks, when it comes to camisoles. “Camisoles with a In Brief all done in interesting ways.” built-in shelf bra are tops that can stand on their “Women are buying anything as long as it has own. With the warmer weather coming on, they ● HIGH TIDE AT HARRODS: Harrods has poached Susanne Tide- color,” affirms Rebecca Apsan, owner of La Petite are definitely important. Pair a with an Frater, currently head of creative direction at Selfridges, to be its Coquette, an intimate apparel boutique in New easy and flip-flops and you practically have a new creative director. Tide-Frater, who joined Selfridges seven York City’s Greenwich Village. “It’s about feeling summer .” years ago, will take up her role at Harrods London on Sept. 1, re- happy with what we have on.” Our experts are also quick to point to other new porting to Richard Simonin, the London store’s chief executive With feeling good in mind, many industry silhouettes making their mark on fashion these officer. The position is a new one, created to “further develop new concepts and innovations,” the store said in a statement. experts were quick to point out that there may just days. “The caftan has been updated as the new key Tide-Frater will work closely with the buying and marketing divi- be a fourth “C.” “It’s cotton that she loves,” loungewear item to have,” DeMusis from Carole sions. Prior to her current position, Tide-Frater was head of fash- notes Cindy Kelly, president of Hanro USA, the Hochman relates. But this isn’t your grandmother’s ion direction at Selfridges. However, the departure should come division of the worldly collection of housecoat. “The modern version is younger in feel as no surprise. As reported in February, Alannah Weston, daugh- intimate garments sold in upscale shopping and has a higher taste level. There are great prints ter of Galen Weston, the new owner of Selfridges, this month be- destinations. “It’s all about comfort and well-being. and daring colors that make them youthful. It’s the comes the store’s full-time creative director. And Tide-Frater is I think it relates to the well- coolest thing to lounge in.” not the first in the exodus — Peter Williams stepped down as Fiber Preferences for Underwear Selfridges ceo in February, and David Riddiford, the buying and ness idea and that feeling of Trend expert DeFranco merchandising director, announced his departure last month to freshness, it’s about having Female suggests taking the caftan out join Lane Crawford in . something that feels good All Cotton 71.8% in the open. “Wear a caftan against our skin.” 6.8% with a casual cut ● THE PARSONS PROJECT: As their senior class project, a group of Parsons School of Design students studying entrepreneurship Natural fibers are all impor- Cotton blends 6.3% off skirt or , and you were asked to come up with an event that would make money — tant in the intimate apparel 6.2% have a great look for right now.” but they took the assignment a step further by tying their event to selection process, as data Polyester 1.3% But don’t forget about a charitable cause. The students have organized an auction that from the Cotton Incorporated 0.7% bottoms from the intimate will take place on Friday night at David Rago Auctions in Lifestyle Monitor™ supports. No preference 1.5% apparel world, says Hanro’s Lambertville, N.J., and will be managed by Parsons instructor A significant 71.8% of All Other/Don’t Know 6.4% Kelly. “Cropped pants sold in Nicholas M. Dawes, who is also a host on the “Arts & Antiques women told the Monitor that the daywear collections are Roadshow” on PBS. The proceeds will benefit The CFDA they prefer all cotton for their underwear selections, still important. It’s a creative way to bring crossover Foundation Inc.’s various philanthropic efforts. The class aggres- sively pursued fashion contacts for donations, putting together a 6.8% silk and 5.3% cotton blends. In the first to your .” series of packages, one of which includes a Dior saddlebag, a vin- quarter of 2004, 63.5% of female consumers said With all these stylish cuts, colorful hues and tage dress from Diane von Furstenberg, a salon package at they were willing to pay more for natural fibers ultimately comfortable options in intimate apparel, Saks , a bag from Ungaro, cashmere knits such as cotton, representing a nearly four-point it’s easy to see how these items can be great for show from Cynthia Rowley, clothing and a showroom tour from Zegna, increase from 59.6% for the same year-ago period. or just for yourself. Just remember the three “C’s”: clothing from Parsons senior Chris Benz and a spring basket “It’s the purest and softest of all fabrics,” declares color cut and comfort! from Ralph Lauren filled with a dozen each of men’s and women’s Polo shirts. Clea Driscoll, a Parsons senior, noted that Carole Hochman’s DeMusis about cotton. “Women This story is one in a series of articles based on findings for those unable to attend the auction in person, bids can be understand it.” from Cotton Incorporated’s Lifestyle Monitor™ made through eBay at its ebayliveauctions.com Web site. They most certainly do, and they take care to tracking research. Appearing Thursdays in these pages, seek out favored fibers. When asked by the Monitor each story will focus on a specific topic as it relates to the ● FLYING HIGH: Zambesi, a label, is revamping the how often they check fabric content labels, 30.8% American women’s wear consumer and her attitudes worn by 3,000 Air New Zealand employees as part of its of female consumers said always, 22.3% usually, and behavior regarding clothing, pitch to put Kiwi fashion on the international map. The company recently took over sponsorship of New Zealand Fashion Week. and 30% sometimes. Only 12.5% of women appearance, fashion, fiber selection and The new looks for Air New Zealand are expected to be intro- admitted to never looking at fiber content labels. many other timely, relevant subjects. duced in 2006. Nina Ricci and are among the de- signers that created in-flight attire in the past for the . WWD, THURSDAY, MAY 20, 2004 3

An icon’s style, from left: A design from “Blonde Ambition”; kilts from the 2001 “Drowned” tour, and a Dolce & Gabbana outfit from the “Girly” tour. ARNAL/STILLS/RETNA; JAMES CRUMP/WIREIMAGE; STEVE EICHNER/PHOTOWEB/WIREIMAGE; W COVER: STEVEN KLEIN Madonna’s Latest Look By Rose Apodaca Jones tals — remained, but the costume has now been cut in act looking equally as striking in a black Yves Saint softer fabrics. Laurent top, worn with by Los Angeles rising LOS ANGELES — On Monday, when the spotlight reveals Lacroix said the Klein images “epitomized the drama star Louis Verdad, whom Phillips put on the radar only a Madonna on the opening night of her Reinvention Tour of couture, theatrical skill and today’s show business.” year ago after dressing her high-profile client in his at the Great Western Forum here, Christian Lacroix will He reinterpreted the red-sequined and embroidered Forties-flavored clothes. be right there with her. So will Karl Lagerfeld for corset from the W shoot in nude and glitter for the tour. “Some of the will change from night to Chanel, Stella McCartney, Dolce & Gabbana, Jean Paul “I’m not a close friend of Madonna’s, but I always felt night,” said Phillips. “It can get routine on the road, so Gaultier and several more friends. that she’s a very Christian Lacroix girl,” the designer what I learned last time is to keep an element of interest Superstars these days might not be able to leave home said. “I remember she sent her measurements for the and surprise for both Madonna and the audience.” for tours without a high-profile European designer pro- very first collection in 1987 and she was gorgeous in So, for the third act, Lagerfeld designed two options viding at least a couple of wardrobe changes, but leave it Vogue magazine in a black with carnation piping and Phillips designed another. to Madonna to have almost all of them. The pop icon is and a ‘Madonna’ embroidered on her back.” In fact, despite all the outreach, Phillips had her work breaking a record (if such things are kept) by taking on The pair, in fact, have only met once, he recalled by e- cut out for her. Besides Madonna’s five costume changes, her 14-city North American tour — along with stops over mail Wednesday, at a post-couture party for him. there are two background singers who also change five the Atlantic in London, and Arnhem, Holland — not “Privately, I know we do have a lot of inspirations in times, 10 dancers and their six changes, and the four mem- one designer but the custom pieces from 13 of them — 14 common. And I would like to dedicate our work for her bers of the band who only change twice. And the entire com- if you count Alexander McQueen’s contributions from his to her biggest fan in , a pany tests the limits of their archival signature and Givenchy collections. friend of mine who died from AIDS wardrobe, dancing and singing night And by the end of it all, 750,000 people are expected a few weeks ago, who was so happy after night, which is why four to six of to see her — at prices ranging from $65 to $930 a ticket in knowing I was going to create some- everything — including the couture — the U.S. alone. thing for this tour.” has been made in advance. “No one can deny the unique relationship Madonna The Klein shoot, in fact, infuses Phillips designed the complete has with fashion, and fashion has with Madonna,” the entire concert. “It had to do with second and last acts of the five-part Arianne Phillips, stylist and costume designer for the tour, the process of the performer,” said show. Act two is a “real rock ’n’ roll told WWD late Tuesday night following dress rehearsals Phillips. “Madonna always talks section” based on Madonna’s recent for the two-hour concert. “Madonna has a history of col- about focusing on the process and “” album. And the laborating with fashion designers. We didn’t want to miss not just the end result. If you do the finale, she revealed, merges hip-hop the opportunity to collaborate with several of them.” best you can you’ll reach certainty sensibilities with traditional Scottish And enlisting so many different designers made per- in the outcome. That is the spiritual elements, including kilts — some- fect sense for a tour cheekily titled after the way the side of Madonna and something you thing introduced in the last tour. singer is chronically described for exposing yet one see throughout the show.” The extended wardrobe credits more aspect of her endlessly layered personality. Klein also photographed the tour are a departure for Madonna, who The concept, continued Phillips, who started work on book. For that production, McQueen has always relied on a single design- the tour March 1, is “a wink, a nod to parts of her career. forwarded some 50 pieces from his er to costume the bulk of her tours. Despite what journalists constantly say — that she’s own archives and designs he’d done Her most intimate collaboration has reinventing herself, it’s really an organic transition of for Givenchy Couture. been with Gaultier. As much as he who she is. It’s not like she sits down and plots her next Act three goes to Chanel, with wanted to participate, time con- move. Madonna has this great sense of humor. She leaves Karl Lagerfeld dressing Madonna “at straints — in part due to his new no stone unturned, including winking at us by calling it her sassiest — as the sexiest chorus charge at Hermès — made it impos- the ‘Reinvention Tour.’” girl you could ever imagine,” said Steven Klein’s W shoot inspired the costumes. sible, said Phillips. But his pres- Throw in a musical journey from which to draw and Phillips, who, for the sake of keeping some element of sur- ence is there in the shirts he sent over for the dancers. there was no shortage of inspiration for wardrobe. prise, remained mum on the details of the clothes and the “The generosity from the fashion community has just Lacroix was called on to reconfigure the original cou- song list. “She shows the precociousness we love about her. been incredible,” she noted. ture he created for the Steven Klein-photographed port- This part is a wonderful Fellini-esque carnival. What’s real- That goes down to Madonna’s toes. are neces- folio that appeared in the April 2003 issue of WWD’s sis- ly important to Madonna is that the show, the costumes, the sary for the choreography, and several designers swiftly ter magazine W. Several of the images from that shoot choreography all have a subtext of entertainment.” obliged with custom pairs. There are the steep 4-inch will appear on screens onstage and then “come to life in The “emotional heart of the show,” she continued, heels, no less, from Miu Miu, and Jimmy Choo and Gina the three-dimensional aspect of the costume,” said bows next. The costumes are quieter, but no less power- of London provided for a video portion. And, Phillips, who’s worked with Madonna since 1997. This is ful. The Stella McCartney silhouette, Phillips said, “is Phillips noted, “Yves Saint Laurent shut down produc- her second tour with the artist, following 2001’s Madonna at her best.” tion” to make six pairs of above-the-knee leather “,” which marked the pop icon’s McCartney, who hints at the look by referring to its mas- with 3-1/2-inch heels, based on a favorite pair Madonna return to concerts following a seven-year break. culine, styling, calls it a “less is more” moment. owns from a couple of seasons ago. There are , of course, potentially inhibiting for “She has worn my bespoke clothing a lot in the past. In fact, In a video clip, there is a costume by Jeremy Scott, and singing, that had to be worked out in multiple fittings. The the first thing of mine she bought was a bespoke .” This Dolce & Gabbana provided most of the . original from the Klein shoot didn’t move. “But Mr. Lacroix particular design, the designer added, is “very Stella Asked about the wardrobe budget, Phillips paused was the perfect designer for this,” said Phillips, “because McCartney in spirit, but for Madonna, mixing very mascu- before replying: “No expense was spared, whether it was he’s designed for the opera, so he and his atelier under- line elements with her iconic energy. It’s simple and tasteful something we covered, or the designers covered. Money’s stand the nature of performance and costume completely.” and very wearable. But she’s playing with her masculinity never been an issue. These fashion designers put a lot of Much of the embellishments — the baroque embroi- and making a statement of a certain attitude and sexuality.” time and energy and heart into being a part of this.” dery, beading, handpainting and mass of Swarovski crys- Ye t audiences also may find Madonna in that fourth —- With contributions from Robert Murphy, Paris 4 WWD, THURSDAY, MAY 20, 2004 Purple Reign EYE SCOOP SHOW BOAT: Forget the red carpet — “We’re all blinged up!” said Keira Knightley, the face of the all the news in Cannes is aboard the upcoming Asprey campaign, at the mega-bash Tuesday yachts. Media-shy San Francisco night to open the ’s 40,000-square-foot store on Bond novelist Melanie Craft, a.k.a. Mrs. eye® Street in London. Knightley, who was wearing strand upon Larry Ellison, played hostess Tuesday strand of diamonds around her neck, couldn’t quite get night on her husband’s boat, Katana, over the turnout. “I walked through the front door and which has been docked in Cannes all thought ‘Oh my! I can’t even move.’” week. The annual fete for ICM “I feel like a proud papa,” said Lawrence Stroll as he and co-host honcho Jeff Berg, who sits on the Silas Chou surveyed the place, decked out in purple, right down to board of Oracle, Ellison’s billion- the garbage bins. dollar software company, was the Purple-uniformed shoeshine men sat outside Asprey’s front entrance usual intimate gathering of power to give the 1,500-strong crowd — including Jade Jagger, Molly Ringwald, players, including Roman Polanski, Sir Elton John, Hussein Chalayan and Zara Phillips — a last-minute polish Brett Ratner and Serena Williams. But while male window-washers in and no shirts shined the glass there was also a touch of Euro-glam: until it sparkled. Inside, servers passed around boiled quails’ eggs Princess Olga of with her beau packed into purple Asprey gift boxes while the luxury firm’s artisans sat of four years, Johnny Pigozzi, and their at worktables polishing silver plates and mounting diamonds in rings. pal . Over dinner on “It was a very understated affair,” announced Kenneth Cole, with a the top deck, surprise guest Don smile. “A very moderate display of mid-priced merchandise.” Johnson jokingly demanded a rebate. Stroll later hosted a dinner at Annabel’s for 150 Asprey brass and “My wife buys so many of your shoes personal friends, including Norman Foster, David Mlinaric, Sarah that I think I’m entitled to some Ferguson, Crown Prince Pavlos and Marie-Chantal of . money back, or at least a discount,” “Now we shareholders want to make our money back,” Chou told his he declared. guests. “And please, don’t just buy Asprey for yourselves. E-mail your Meanwhile, Mrs. Ellison excused friends! E-mail your enemies! And tell them all about our new store.” herself from the table to retire early, saying, “I’m way too shy to be out here, so I sort of let Jeff take over this night.” Her outspoken husband was back in closing a deal, while she has quietly been enjoying a week on the Riviera with eight guests. Jacquetta Wheeler Alas, it was her final cruise aboard Katana, which has been sold to the British media entrepreneurs, the Barclay brothers. Ellison’s new vessel, Rising Sun, which measures 410 feet versus the 244-foot-long Katana, will be ready for christening in November. “I tried to get Larry to call it Princess Melanie, but that got shot down pretty fast,” she said. Keira Knightley in Goat. MASON PHOTO BY KYLE SAMPERTON; ASPREY PARTY BY TIM JENKINS; BODYGUARDS BY STEPHANE FEUGERE BY TIM JENKINS; BODYGUARDS BY ASPREY PARTY SAMPERTON; KYLE MASON PHOTO BY Sir Elton John and David Furnish

Zara Phillips Celia and Silas Chou Sarah Ferguson Ann Nitze and Christopher Mason : “Classic, understated . I like ties so I change them often.” ON THE BLOCK: Christopher Mason spent To C a t c h a Thief Sorry, Ladies: “I’m married, but don't have kids yet. There’s last Friday night ensconced at the not enough time.” mahogany dining room table of Ann CANNES, France — As rumors of a burglarized villa and stolen Job Perk: “I give my wife diamonds when I can. I know the Nitze’s elegant Georgetown house, laptops circulate around the , the difference between D and D flawless.” signing copies of his new book, “The legendarily attractive security guards — assigned to protect Art of the Steal,’’ which chronicles the the millions of dollars worth of borrowed jewels adorning the LUC CHARPIOT, Chopard Luc infamous Christie’s/Sotheby’s price- necks, ears and wrists of the beautiful people — have Height: 5’8” Charpiot fixing case. (Nitze fluttered a black fan suddenly found themselves in the limelight. Weight: 145 that matched her Ungaro dress. “I’m a Though these strong, silent types often manage to elude the Age: 42 fan of Christopher Mason,’’ she said.) camera, high-profile guards like Luc Fournier of De Beers and Day Jobs: Firefighter, “I want a copy for my friend Scott Luc Charpiot of Chopard can always be spotted on the red bodyguard Mueller,’’ said Louisa Riley-Smith, wife carpet, just a few steps behind a high-wattage star, or Security Strategy: “Be subtle. of a top British Embassy counsel, and presiding over the jewels at the boutique. Both refuse to Always use discretion.” part of Mason’s Cambridge-Oxford divulge any specific incidents of theft at this year’s festival, Training: Black in karate. mafia. Gamely signing the book over but say they aren’t afraid to use their impressive physiques Favorite Client: Emannuelle to the New York attorney who helped when necessary. Ladies, take note. Béart. “But we are only told one represent Alfred Taubman, Mason — Marcy Medina hour prior who we will be impishly grinned, “I’m not sure he’s watching.” going to like what I’ve written.’’ LUC FOURNIER, De Beers Luc Dress Code: Tux for Mason recalled leaner days when Height: 6’1” Fournier premieres, comfortable shoes his first book on Gianni Versace never Weight: 190 and shades when it’s sunny. “It’s made it into print because of Age: 29 not a cliche.” objections from Versace’s sister, Former Job: Cook Gems 101: “I know the Donatella. So what convinced Mason to Can Also Spot Him At: Cartier, difference between a ruby, a diamond and an emerald.” try again? “Alfred Taubman’s daughter, Louis Vuitton Surgical Skills: Knowing how to undo those tricky clasps. Tiffany Dubin, is a very dear friend of Security Strategy: “Intimidation “It’s more important to be able to take it off than put it on.” mine,’’ he explained, confiding he’s is the best prevention.” Hours: “All day, all night. Staying with actors until 4 a.m. is hard at work on another as-yet Workout: “Exercise bike, Greco- part of the job.” undisclosed book subject. “Corruption Roman wrestling, Thai boxing and Diet: “We live never knowing what or when we are going in high places is what I specialize in.’’ one hour in the gym every day.” to eat.” WWD, THURSDAY, MAY 20, 2004 5 Target: Asset Sale Soon Strong Sales Drive Continued from page one Field’s president Linda Ahlers subsequently irate when ques- nostalgic Target shareholders nor Mervyn’s president Diane tions were banned, asked point- PacSun Expansion who questioned the rationale Neil took their customary places edly what Target was doing to en- for the sale of Marshall Field’s. on stage during the shareholder sure it didn’t face the same By Kristin Young ting very close.” Meanwhile, in New York, an- meeting, and neither offered a “problems affecting our friends Nodding to the 100 or so alysts and consultants threw a second-quarter outlook on the in Bentonville [Ark.],” such as il- ANAHEIM, Calif. — Pacific employees at the meeting, few names in the ring of parties company’s first-quarter confer- legal cleaning crews and employ- Sunwear of California Inc. is Weaver said, “Our employees who would be interested in tak- ence call May 13. ees forced to work off the clock. on a roll, with robust sales constantly seek progress. We’re ing the two businesses off of In a sign of where a baggage- Target executive vice presi- growth and a plan to expand its just shy of 1,000 stores, and al- Target’s hands. free Target Stores is headed, dent and general counsel Jim store base by more than 50 per- ready we’ve grown into a very It has been widely expected chairman and chief executive of- Hale said the company uses an cent in the next three years, dominant force in teen retail- within the analyst community that ficer Robert Ulrich focused on annual survey and an 800 num- said Greg Weaver, chairman ing,” he said, noting the U.S. May Co. or Federated Department the flagship division’s perform- ber, which handles thousands of and of demographic of 32 million Stores, which said it was explor- ance for the past 10 years, point- confidential calls annually, to the surf and skate retailer. teens with a total of $170 bil- ing the acquisition, will pick up ing out that Target is now, at $41 make sure proper labor policies Weaver said at the annual lion to spend. Comp stores to Field’s and that Mervyn’s may be billion, roughly the size Wal-Mart are being followed. shareholders’ meeting here on date have risen 12.7 percent. broken up for its real estate. Wednesday that store numbers Weaver also cited PacSun’s However, in a research note is- are expected to expand from brand focus — now 67 percent sued Tuesday, A.G. Edwards ana- Certainly Wal-Mart is a major threat. 907 to 1,400 by 2007, bumping up of the total merchandise mix lyst Robert Buchanan said mar- “ sales. The retailer, comprising — and pointed to several new ket sources indicated a group Personally, I wish Wal-Mart wouldn’t PacSun, PacSun Outlet and vendors the retailer began car- led by publicly traded invest- urban division Demo, surpassed rying this year, including DVS, ment firm Apollo Group, includ- exist. $1 billion in sales last year and Adio and Osiris. Footwear has ing former Macy’s East ceo Hal ” — Robert Ulrich, Target Corp. had an $80.2 million profit. racked up double-digit comps Kahn, may be interested in buy- PacSun, along with the compa- in the last three years, while ing and operating Mervyn’s. was a decade ago. It operates Ulrich said Target’s expansion ny’s Outlet division, is projected accessories accounted for 19 Kahn firmly denied any in- 1,249 stores across 47 states; in for the next decade will focus on to operate 1,000 stores by the percent of last year’s sales. volvement with Mervyn’s or its strongest markets, including the U.S., and he expects the com- end of 2007, Weaver said. Demo Urban hip-hop chain Demo Apollo. “There is absolutely no , California and New pany to double its footprint and will run another 400 stores. continues to be the company’s truth to this whatsoever, and I , it commands 10 percent triple sales in that period. Square footage growth is to in- growth vehicle, said Weaver. would think that a quality ana- of the market or more, according Eventually, the retailer will go crease by 13 to 15 percent each In 2003, the 16-to-24 age group lyst like Robert Buchanan would to company data. international, likely starting in year for the next three years. bumped up comp-store sales 4 do more due diligence before he In a press session, Ulrich Canada or , but there are Some 110 new stores are percent, and year-to-date is spreads rumors and at the very characterized operations at both no immediate plans to push be- planned to bow in 2004. tracking 6 percent ahead of least check with me,” said Kahn. divisions as “business as usual.” yond profitable domestic territo- “We’re off to an incredible plan. “There is very limited “Other than a 20-minute conver- This year, shareholders were ry, which Ulrich said could re- start in 2004,” Weaver said. competition,” said Weaver, sation with Apollo when I told allowed to submit questions in turn the company 15 percent an- After noting that the company noting that Demo’s sales per them I was not interested in writing, easing some of the sting nually for the foreseeable future. almost doubled its sales growth square foot topped $405 in Mervyn’s, I have had no involve- they felt last year when Ulrich Along the way, Target will have in 2003, he added that “By any 2003, higher than the compa- ment — zero — with Apollo on unceremoniously adjourned a to grapple with Wal-Mart for measure, our plans remain ny’s average of $363. Young Mervyn’s or any other ventures.” perfunctory 15-minute meeting every bit of market share, even on highly aggressive. We will con- women here, too, have been Alan Schlesinger, the former without the customary question- the Minneapolis-based retailer’s tinue to grow PacSun stores, driving sales, making up 35 ceo of Filene’s Basement and and-answer session. home turf. Wal-Mart is building Outlet stores and Demo stores.” percent of total apparel sales. Lamont’s and currently a consult- Questions focused on the ra- its first stores in the Twin Cities Young women — especially In response, the company is ant, is said to be involved with tionale for the Marshall Field’s metro area, Target’s stronghold the 15-year-old target customer tweaking its store prototype. Apollo on pursuing Mervyn’s. “I sale, which seemed to hit hardest where it operates about 40 stores. — continue to be the driving “We felt our stores were a lit- can’t confirm or deny it,” he said with local shareholders mourn- “Certainly Wal-Mart is a major force behind PacSun. PacSun’s tle bit too urban, a little bit Wednesday. ing the last link to Dayton’s, threat. Personally, I wish Wal-Mart goal for the last several years too masculine,” said Weaver. There was also another report beloved for its philanthropy here. wouldn’t exist,” Ulrich said in a has been to evenly split mer- Even if there’s a chance the that Robert DiNicola, the retired “The department stores are rare candid comment that drew chandise between young economy could turn south, chairman and ceo of Zale Corp., losing meaning. They’re passing whistles and scattered applause women and men, once the Weaver is optimistic. “Interest may be involved in pursuing them around like cards at a from some shareholders. “But it dominant segment of business. rates are going to go up in the Mervyn’s. DiNicola could not be table,” complained Minneapolis certainly keeps Target a sharper In 2003, clothing for young next few years,” he said, noting reached for comment. resident and longtime share- and more focused company than women accounted for 47 per- that the indicator directly affects At the annual meeting, Target holder Mary-Lou Robertson. if we weren’t competing with one cent of the mix — “its highest retail. “Our customers could is acting as if it has already Shareholder Aaron Epstein, of the world’s biggest companies.” level of total sales to date,” said care less. They have only one in- washed its hands of its lagging who flew in from North Holly- — With contributions from Weaver. “You can see we’re get- terest. They want to look good.” divisions. Neither Marshall wood, Calif., last year and was David Moin Full-Price Selling Bolsters Specialty Retailers NEW YORK — Spring’s explosion of color coupled with shoppers doling out full prices sent first-quarter earnings skyward for specialty retailers reporting re- sults Wednesday. First-Quarter Results Charming Shoppes Inc., Dress Barn Inc., Goody’s Family Clothing Inc., Hot Topic (in millions) Inc. and Talbots Inc. reported sizeable year-over-year earnings gains as customers paid full price for vibrant spring and summer offerings. On the teen front, Hot Topic scored a 21.5 percent net income gain on sales that soared RETAILER EARNINGS EARNINGS % CHANGE SALES '04 SALES '03 % CHANGE 27.3 percent to $128.1 million. For the older demographic set, color and fabric were key. (LOSS) '04 (LOSS) '03 “Through the business, color fashion and new fabrications are driving sales,” said Harold Bosworth, vice president and chief merchandising officer for Talbots, during Charming Shoppes Inc. $26.9 $9.7 177.9 $592.7 $564.3 5.0 the company conference call. Talbots’ 13.4 percent boost in earnings was largely generated by a strong perform- Dress Barn $5.4 $2.6 106.6 $183.3 $165.7 10.6 ance at its retail stores. Goody's Family Clothing Inc. $8.1 $1.9 332.8 $302.9 $283.0 7.0 Arnold Zetcher, chairman, president and chief executive officer, said during the Hot Topic $5.4 $4.4 21.5 $128.1 $100.7 27.3 company’s call that retail-store sales rose 7 percent to $353.4 million while same-store Talbots Inc. $33.3 $29.4 13.4 $419.0 $395.0 6.1 sales were up 1.7 percent. Comps were offset by softness in marked-down sales due to lean inventories, as well as a general weakness in the dress business. Catalogue sales dipped slightly to $65.6 million from $65.8 million. SOURCE: COMPANY REPORTS The company said it will be adding a suiting package to 115 store locations in August, which will center on one along with four bottoms, two options in found their way back among the top sellers. pants and two in . Also for fall will be a change in the denim component of “What we’re encouraged about is that we had a very strong wear-to-work business Talbots’ casual business that will incorporate new lighter-weight fabrics. in our Fashion Bug division as well as our Lane Bryant division for spring,” said Dorrit While Talbots said it is making changes to reverse weakness in its dress compo- Bern, president and chief executive officer, during the company conference call. nent, analyst Neely Tamminga of Piper Jaffray noted in a research note that casual According to Bern, skirts have regained prominence in the work apparel category. “become a much less important contributor to total sales in the fall relative to have followed suit. “It seems that the business is back. I can’t believe the spring.” I’m saying that, but the blouse business is back, at the same time that this wear-to- However, Tamminga said management’s decision to run television advertisements work career business has turned around for us,” said Bern. for its semi-annual sale, a first for the company, should generate greater store traffic. According to Gayle Coolick, director of investor relations, sales at Lane Bryant ex- The clearance event begins in late June. Her firm reiterated its “outperform” rating ceeded expectations, coming in at $246.6 million with a 5 percent comparable-store gain. on Talbots. The strong sales response, coupled with tight inventory controls made for a 100 Meanwhile, triple-digit earnings gains at Charming Shoppes were fueled by sales basis point improvement in merchandise margins. from its Lane Bryant and Fashion Bug segments where , skirts and blouses —Ross Tucker with contributions from Vicki M. Young 6 WWD, THURSDAY, MAY 20, 2004 Garden Variety

Polyamide from Sophia by Vix. Hollywould .

Aaron Chang’s polyester and swimsuit. Mella flip-flops.

Dr. Bombay’s nylon and Lycra swimsuit. Mella flip-flops.

Indah’s terry cloth ; Girl Star’s polyester and spandex bottoms. Mella flip-flops.

LOS ANGELES — Resort swimwear blooms bright with in whimsical patterns and sexy shapes. Here, delicate florals and playful pastels add a retro touch to triangle-shaped tops and string-tied bottoms. WWD, THURSDAY, MAY 20, 2004 7 N ASSISTANTS: MIMI LEE, AMBER ARMANNO; STYLED BY MELISSA MAGSAYSAY MIMI LEE, AMBER ARMANNO; STYLED BY N ASSISTANTS:

Dahlia’s polyester and nylon swimsuit. PHOTOS BY ALANA GOLDSTEIN; : LEANNE THRASHER/ELITE; HAIR AND MAKEUP BY JUANITA LYON FOR REDKEN/CELESTINEAGENCY.COM; FASHIO FOR REDKEN/CELESTINEAGENCY.COM; LYON JUANITA HAIR AND MAKEUP BY ALANA GOLDSTEIN; MODEL: LEANNE THRASHER/ELITE; PHOTOS BY 8 WWD, THURSDAY, MAY 20, 2004 James Jeans’ New Cause Denim Dish fter handily exceeding its first-year growth targets, James AJeans is moving out on its own. The company has parted ways with the New York-based Brothers and Sisters Showroom that launched the line, and moved into its own 4,000-square-foot showroom at 250 West 39th Street in Manhattan. Tarrant Cuts Loss Owner James Lim, who owns the brand with his designer arrant Apparel Group’s withdrawal from wife, Seun, said the company has booked $33 million in orders TMexican production cut its first-quarter sales since launching this spring. That’s well ahead of an initial tar- nearly in half, but it also allowed the company to re- get, set last fall, of $2 million in its first season and also sur- duce its loss. passes the $20 million goal the company cited in March. For the three months ended March 31, the Los “It’s really been great, but just so fast — too fast,” Lim Angeles-based apparel and fabrics marketer had a said. “I am just glad that the customers are getting it and that net loss of $3 million versus a loss of $3.9 million in our fit has been working out so well.” the prior-year period. On a per-share basis, the loss- James Jeans’ signature darted back pockets wrap around the es were 10 cents against 24 cents, due to an increase contour of the behind to enhance definition. The jeans are in the of shares outstanding. Sales plum- washed in a way that makes the inner thighs appear thinner and meted 46.5 percent to $42.2 million from $78.7 mil- legs look longer. The hip area is highlighted to create a lift effect. lion in the 2003 quarter, as the company absorbed Lim acknowledged that one casualty of the line’s success what is expected to be an annual top-line decline of is that it’s running about two weeks late on deliveries, $60 million to $75 million due to its exit from though he maintained this is a new and temporary problem. Mexican . Lim said he will be 100 percent on track to deliver on time “By withdrawing from Mexico, we no longer have with the James fall 2004 orders. As of now, Lim said the com- a need to accept low- or negative-margin orders for pany ships between 1,500 and 2,000 units every day. the purpose of filling production capacity during To help meet demand for deliveries, James Jeans beefed slow periods,” president Barry Aved said on a con- up its production staff. It has also moved into a new Los ference call with Wall Street analysts. Angeles headquarters for manufacturing and now has three Patrick Chow, chief financial officer, said quarter- dedicated sewing facilities there. Lim said there are now ly sales were in line with expectations and “relative- more than 500 people involved in putting together the line, ly flat” when excluding year-ago results attributable with about 50 directly employed by the company. That com- to Mexican production. pares with four people on the payroll in January. Company officials said they expected their new Lim said he is looking to partner with a larger company to focus on private to drive top-line growth. Gerard help with marketing, distribution and production duties. Guez, chairman and chief executive officer, said private James Jeans has “I’ve met with a lot of companies, and I would say I am brands accounted for about 15 percent of sales during booked $33 million in the final stages,” Lim said. “We just need the help, since the first quarter and could grow to between 35 and 50 we grew so quickly.” in sales so far. percent of volume by the end of next year. — Julee Greenberg The American Rag program is in junior depart- ments in 153 Federated Department Stores doors, and Guez expects that number to surpass 200 this year. Additionally, a men’s program for that label is being explored, and “another three to five projects” Star Struck could be launched before the beginning of 2005. Tarrant has an exclusive distribution agreement nspired by vintage styles with Wet for No Jeans and manufactures Seven Iand Old West charm, Star 7 jeanswear exclusively for Limited Brands’ Express Jeans is making its debut division. It recently inked a licensing deal with for fall retailing. Cynthia Rowley for women’s jeanswear. The line is backed by —Arnold J. Karr New York-based junior sportswear company Star City. It’s run by James Miller, executive vice pres- Commission — and a 57 percent increase in operating ident, and Scott Aimetti, income. With the brand’s upcoming launches of Choice vice president of sales, Warnaco Charts a Course junior intimates and Calvin Klein who both came to launch arnaco Group Inc. president and chief executive Sensual Support full-figure bras, Gromek said growth the label from young men’s Wofficer Joseph R. Gromek said at the firm’s annu- at that unit should continue. and junior jeans company al meeting Wednesday that the company’s business The Calvin Klein Jeans business, which Warnaco li- Plugg. Currently, the jeans units can be broken down into two main groups: Those censes, is a different story. There, Gromek said, the line shares space with its ripe for revenue growth and those where management firm is “focused on improving profits, versus top line.” parent firm; however, needs to improve profitability. He said the business recorded an operating profit of Miller and Aimetti said In the first camp are the men’s wear brand, only 4 percent last year on its $282.7 million in sales. they plan to move into ded- Calvin Klein underwear and . In the second are Warnaco has cut back sharply on sales of Calvin icated space. Calvin Klein Jeans and the rest of Warnaco’s U.S. inner- Klein Jeans to off-price and wholesale-club retailers, “We both learned so wear business. which played a significant role in much over the years in the Looking at the $1.37 billion Warnaco’s $30.2 million, 7 percent denim business, and we firm from a broad perspective, slide in first-quarter sales to $393.3 are confident that we are STAR JEANS PHOTOS BY TALAYA CENTENO TALAYA JEANS PHOTOS BY STAR Gromek said adding brands million. In a sign the strategy was launching a great prod- through licensing and acquisition paying off, Gromek said the unit uct,” Miller said. “We have re-created a lot of vintage will be a key priority. recorded a double-digit percentage styles and paid a lot of attention to the details.” “Definitely, we believe that we operating profit in that quarter. The first collection includes an array of denim need to enhance our portfolio of The sale of Calvin Klein Jeans styles, including a basic five-pocket, a leading brands and we will continue to wholesale clubs was a contribu- and . Also included are denim and corduroy to add,” he said in an interview after tor to the souring of relations be- jackets accented in fake fur and knit hoods. The sig- the meeting, held in Manhattan. tween former Warnaco chairman nature logo on the denim is a subtle star sewn into Gromek declined to comment and ceo Linda J. Wachner and de- one back pocket, as well as one star rivet on a front on whether Warnaco was eyeing signer Calvin Klein, which ended pocket. Many styles feature ribbon belts or rhine- any particular brands, but added in a legal dispute in late 2000 and stone chain belts, the firm would be ready to move early 2001. That brouhaha was set- Two while denim jackets “if the opportunity comes up.” tled out of court, though Warnaco looks and come with Illustrating Warnaco’s financial wound up filing for Chapter 11 from the decorative pins. readiness to acquire, senior vice protection in June 2001. fall Star “The customers have president and chief financial offi- Current Warnaco management Jeans been reacting really cer Lawrence Rutkowski noted the has sought to put the stormy years of line. well to the extras that company began the year with $53.5 the company’s recent history behind we have added,” Aimetti million in cash on hand and $211.1 Joseph Gromek said Warnaco would consider it, and chairman Charles R. Perrin said. million in long-term debt. That’s acquisitions “if the opportunity comes up.” told the approximately 30 share- Miller said they are more cash than the $26.9 million holders and executives in atten- targeting specialty on hand when Warnaco exited Chapter 11 dance at the annual meeting that last week’s settlement chains and depart- protection in February 2003 and less debt than the by Wachner and other former and current Warnaco exec- ment stores. The line $246.5 million on the books at the time. utives of an SEC probe should mark the final piece of un- wholesales for $11.50 Gromek called the Chaps business “our leading rev- settled business from that era. Wachner agreed to pay $1 to $20. Miller expects enue-growth opportunity” and noted the men’s jeans million in the settlement, which concerned a probe into to reach about $15 mil- line launched under that brand could bring in $25 mil- previous earnings restatements at the company. lion in first-year sales. lion in second-half sales. “It’s important to note that the inquiry had nothing Next up, the company He said the CK innerwear business — a label for to do with any of our current financial recording mat- is planning a young which Warnaco owns the rights — last year posted 16.5 ters,” Perrin said. “This last chapter in the old men’s line to be ready percent revenue growth — to $279.1 million, according Warnaco is now closed.” for spring 2005. to a filing with the Securities and Exchange — Scott Malone — J.G. WWD, THURSDAY, MAY 20, 2004 9

Active LifestyleX Lucy Names A Sleeker Authority New President By David Moin He said the merchandise flow has By Melanie Kletter improved since the merger, so there are NEW YORK — The Sports Authority, the fewer instances of stockouts and of stale NEW YORK — Lucy Activewear, the largest U.S. sporting goods retailer, got products lingering on the selling floors. 13-unit chain that was one of the bigger by buying Gart Sports in August. About 30 percent of The Sports first retailers devoted exclusively Now it wants to get better and boost Authority’s business is in apparel. Fiscal to active women, has named a new productivity. 2004 sales are projected to be about $2.6 president and chief executive offi- The chain is dumping the old billion. cer, Michael J. Edwards, to direct chrome racks and moving away from Merrill Lynch, which recently renewed a store expansion program and the warehouse look by establishing coverage on The Sports Authority, said in oversee the company’s growth. sleek in-store shops with bigger graph- a report that the Gart merger will help Edwards will take over the ceo ics and deeper assortments of better- strengthen relationships with key national slot on June 14, succeeding quality brands. brands. “We should see more premium founder and current president Sue A 50,000-square-foot prototype, about brands in all stores as vendors look at the Levin, who will continue to serve 10,000 square feet larger than the typical new and improved Sports Authority as a on the board of directors and act Sports Authority box, opened April 24 in desirable retail partner,” Merrill said. The as a strategic adviser. King of Prussia Mall in Pennsylvania, financial services firm cited “tremendous Edwards, 43, has an extensive kicking off a plan to remodel 135 stores potential for cost savings” because of the track record in the retail business, over the next two years. merger, estimated to come to $20 million most recently as executive vice Elements of the prototype will be in fiscal 2004, $40 million in 2005, and $50 president of operations at craft blended into other stores to varying million after that. chain Jo-Ann Stores. He has also degrees, depending on the location, to Merrill also said that “significant” held merchandising and executive provide a more unified look chain-wide remodels will occur in 99 locations and positions at May Co., Target Corp., and across the divisions. The Sports that a 2.2 percent comp-store sales boost Golfsmith and CompUSA. Authority also operates Sportmart and will generate sufficient return on invest- “I believe I took Lucy as far as I Oshman’s stores, which had been owned ment of about 35 percent. Merrill said could or should take it,” said Levin, by Gart, for a total of 385 stores. In addi- past remodels have generated higher a former Nike executive, in a phone tion, a joint venture with AEON Co. Ltd. The Sports Authority is remodeling many of its stores. comp gains, so 2.2 percent is doable. interview Wednesday. “As we devel- operates Sports Authority licensed Larger prototypes that are the size of op and grow, we need someone who stores in . King of Prussia cost about $1.6 million has retail rollout experience. Mike’s With a uniform interior design ap- each, according to Merrill. Once the vast retail knowledge and opera- proach, all stores may eventually be called inner transformation is complete, the tional strength will enable us to The Sports Authority, though there is no Englewood, Colo.-based Sports Auth- grow the company rapidly and prof- definite plan for that yet, and the company ority plans to unveil new marketing and itably in coming years.” has changed nameplates in only a few . It’s working with the Edwards couldn’t be reached markets so far. Consulting Group on consumer re- for comment. “We are trying to play up any syner- search, Watt International on branding, Lucy, which is based in gies we can,” said Karl Salz, the chain’s Cliff Freeman on advertising and Integ- Portland, Ore., and has estimated regional director of Mid-Atlantic stores. rated Corporate Relations on investor sales of about $15 million, recent- “Sports Authority has primarily been relations. ly received a round of new financing known for team sports and athletics, and Features of the prototype include: to help facilitate its growth plans, Gart has been a great outdoor store.” ● A 2,700-square-foot “golf day” con- Levin said. Its investors include Merchandise strengths from both cept shop with a driving cage and a 15- Sutter Hill Ventures, Maveron LLC chains will be shared, he said. For foot graphic wall. and Oak Investment Partners. example, since Gart is strong in ski ● A team sports and team logo appar- Levin declined to reveal the equipment, The Sports Authority stores el department. amount of the additional invest- next winter will be able to beef up ski ● Increased vendor branding. ment, or to give many details brands such as K2 and Salomon, while Branded apparel is becoming a bigger part of the mix. ● A full-service performance-footwear about the store openings. She Gart units will adopt some of Sports Authority’s strength in hunting wall, a cleat shop and a “lifestyle” footwear shop with vendors such said the scope of new units will be and fishing gear, Salz said. as Columbia, and Salomon. determined when Edwards offi- In addition, The Sports Authority will beef up some higher-priced ● A stone bridge to try out hiking footwear on inclines and cially joins, adding that the firm brands, such as , Salz said. One-thousand-square-foot declines so there will be no surprises, such as blisters, on the actual and its investors see potential for North Face shops started rolling out last year. Other key brands hike. The bridge is 10 feet long and 3 1/2 feet wide, is made from aggressive national expansion. “I include Columbia, Head, Nike, , , Huffy, New Balance, stone and metal and has a 45-degree slope. am still going to be very involved,” , and Alpine Design. “Customers are asking ● Twenty-foot graphic walls in fitness and camping departments. she added. “This change allows for better brands. That’s what we are moving into,” Salz said. ● Fitting rooms in four areas, instead of being centralized. me to focus on the things where I have greater strengths. I am not a construction project manager.” Levin founded Lucy in 1999 as a Web site and catalogue catering to A Fresh Take on Ancient Olympics active women of different ages, sizes and fitness levels. Then known NEW YORK — Many people only think about the as lucy.com, the firm spent millions Images from Olympics every two years as the Games get under of dollars in its first year on an way, but for Martin Cooper, a design ex- Martin Cooper’s extensive marketing campaign that ecutive and a photographer, they’re something of photo project included direct mail, print advertis- an obsession. “The Altis: ing and online advertising. Follow- For eight years, Cooper has been developing Portraits of the ing the Internet bust in 2001, Lucy “The Altis: Portraits of the Immortals,” a photo Immortals.” shifted its focus to brick-and-mortar project inspired by the ancient Greek Olympics. stores. In the last few years, the firm “I have always had a thing for antiquities,” has been relatively quiet, opening a Cooper said during an interview at the studio and few stores a year. showroom in Manhattan’s financial district that he Lucy still occupies a relatively shares with his wife, accessories designer Karen uncrowded niche in the market. Suen Cooper. While a number of new active cata- Martin Cooper, also a CFDA member, has metic- logues for women have sprung up in ulously studied the Games to create his series. recent years, there are still few Many of his mostly nude images incorporate ancient stores focused on this category. Nike symbols, such as a bow and arrow, feathers or a dis- plans to develop its Nikewomen cus. With their dramatic lighting and deep tones, concept, formerly known as Nike the prints have a mysterious and moody feel. Goddess, and other competition But there’s one big difference in Cooper’s take comes from established sporting on the ancient competitions: “Women weren’t al- goods chains such as Sports lowed to participate in the Games, which I think Authority and Lady Foot Locker. was a huge injustice, so by casting the project only The company had a boutique in with women I address those inequalities,” he said. event photos show models in various athletic poses. dance work by Boston Ballet choreographer Manhattan at Crunch gym, but that The term Altis comes from the Greek name for The project, which comprises about 250 pho- Rebecca Rice in 2002, for which Cooper de- location will close next month the sacred olive grove where the ancient Olympics tos, has been on display around the world and is signed the costumes. when the lease expires, Levin said. took place, Cooper said. The project is broken into now being shown by appointment at the Jayne H. “I also want to turn this into a book to show The stores carry a range of branded categories, each showing a different element of the Baum/JHB Gallery in New York. the breadth of the series,” he noted. “And it merchandise from firms including Games. For example, the preparation photos depict What began in 1996 as a photographic project could make a great fine art film.” Puma, Nike, Adidas and Om Girl, athletes getting ready for their , while the has morphed into other mediums. Altis inspired a — M.K. as well as its own namesake brand. 10 WWD, THURSDAY, MAY 20, 2004

Stacey Pecor in her The Beat first New York boutique on Shopping With Olive & Bette Columbus Avenue.

By Julee Greenberg NEW YORK — Ah, the tribulations of a retailer: demanding customers, gambling on styles, getting shipments on time and more. Stacey Pecor, owner of Olive & Bette’s, a three-unit contemporary sportswear chain here — with a fourth to open at 384 Bleecker Street in August — is prototypical. She faces all of these pressures. WWD accompanied her on a buying trip to four different wholesalers to see what works for her boutiques, what doesn’t work and what prompts her to make those decisions. Pecor, who carries labels such as Theory, Nanette Lepore, , Tibi, Generra and Michael Stars, said her customers usually shop with a specific item in mind. They may have watched Carrie Bradshaw (Sarah Jessica Parker) wear it on “ and the City,” or seen the clothing in a magazine feature, she said. Her clients are serious about fashion, so it’s important for Pecor to provide them with something distinctive. Pecor headed out to the market last month looking for items to sell for early fall, as well as fresh styles to fill her new Bleecker Street shop. Here is a diary of her travels, some of the things she bought and didn’t buy and why. PHOTOS BY TAYALA CENTENO, GEORGE CHINSEE AND JOHN AQUINO CENTENO, TAYALA PHOTOS BY PHOTOS BY TAYALA CENTENO, GEORGE CHINSEE AND JOHN AQUINO CENTENO, TAYALA PHOTOS BY

Stop 1: Ta mara Henriques at Stop 2: Ella Moss at L’Atelier private school girls, stroller moms and tourists will all Items Showroom Showroom love them,” she said. Salesperson: Theresa Barone, owner, Items Salesperson: Samantha Schwartz, Pecor also placed orders for the French terry and Lycra Showroom. sales representative. spandex pants, which are consistent bestsellers in all of What Pecor found: “Tamara’s boots are con- What Pecor found: “I’ve been doing her stores. This season, Splendid shows the pants with stant bestsellers in the stores; right now I am really well with Ella Moss’ signature cuffs at the ankles. Pecor asked for them without the cuffs. completely sold out of one style and there are 35 striped tops and dresses,’’ Pecor said. “My What Pecor did not find: “Really, I think Splendid customers who already paid for them on a wait- customers come in asking for it since looks great,’’ she said. “They are a great company to ing list,” Pecor said of the black boots with red Carrie wore it on ‘Sex and the City.’” work with. They provide exclusives; I am 70 percent hearts painted on them. “They were featured in Pecor hopes to purchase some more tube sold-through at this point, and they are our number four and they just sold right out. tops since selling out of them within a week. vendor right now. The only complaint I would have I am waiting for those to come in, but in the She needs the clothing in medium and large would be to offer some more colors. I’d love to see a real- meantime, I am looking for new boots for a July sizes, because they seem to be cut small. ly nice green — they don’t have one this time.” delivery.” “I only have small and extra-small left,” Pecor has sold $150,000 worth of the boots she said. Stop 4: Seven For All Mankind since January. She said she could sell much Pecor said she also would like to find some Salesperson: Anja Michals, sales representative. more, but because of the increased demand, new pieces. She adores the long, striped top in “I am really trying to build up my denim business,” Tamara, who is based in London, is having a black with a that sits flat on the back. Pecor said of jeans, which account for 5 percent of her hard time keeping up. From start to finish, “I love this,” she said, “I think these long tops business. “My customer comes to me for everything else it takes about eight months to are so great. I wish people were doing more of — T-shirts, accessories — why should she be going to make one pair of the $118 someone else for jeans? To me, this is business I am retail items because they are missing out on.” all hand-painted. The aver- OLIVE & BETTE’S While she doesn’t carry many denim brands yet except age wholesale price is $49 each. for AG, Seven For All Mankind and James, Pecor said she

Pecor ordered some new styles, was determined to pick up Seven For All Mankind since ▼ TOP FIVE VENDORS such as the tweed-painted boots in col- These Tamara it’s so popular among her customers. The only problem ors like brown, blue and pink. The pink Henriques boots will 1. Theory was that, when she first tried to buy from it, Seven was not ones will be exclusive to Olive & be exclusively at accepting any new accounts because it was having diffi- Bette’s for at least six months. Olive & Bette’s. 2. Autumn Cashmere culty delivering on time to its existing accounts. “Stacy has really been a launch- 3. Tamara Henriques “It’s a problem, but a good problem to have,” ing pad for us in New York,” Barone said. “So we really Michals said. “We are really working hard to get try and work with her to provide her with exclusives.” 4. Splendid everything fixed.” In addition to the tweed boots, Pecor ordered a new To convince the salespeople at the company wavy-stripe style; black, white and red dog-printed 5. Michael Stars to take her appointment, Pecor sent the show- boots, and the paisley model. room packages highlighting the number “7.” What Pecor did not find: “I have been really aggres- “I sent them 7-Up, and all of these other sive with Tamara to come out with more prints,” Pecor them. They are so flattering.” things until they would see me,” Pecor said. “Right now she is working on some animal- print What Pecor did not find: “I said. “Finally, they did. The only problem boots that are great, but really, I could be selling so many am actually pretty disap- now is that I can only carry them in two of more of these boots and she just cannot make them fast pointed with Ella Moss right my stores since they couldn’t handle ship- enough. Now there are so many companies making boots now,” Pecor said. “I was real- ping to the third one. And AG sells better similar to these, so the pressure is especially on now.” ly expecting to go in and see a for me than Seven does. Maybe I am not Pecor said she did not like the newest boots available lot, but I just think this season selling them correctly. That’s what I’m for fall. Done in the signature rubber, the boots are made was a miss.” here to see.” with a shoelace in the front, which is not functional, but Pecor said she particularly This has become an issue for Pecor, exists simply for the look. didn’t like the Alaska group, since Seven For All Mankind “My customer would love the print and would wear which included a series of wool and will only sell to her Madison these with a cute skirt,” Pecor said. “But she wouldn’t acrylic tops. They are made thin for Avenue and Columbus Ave-

like the tie. It just looks like it doesn’t belong. It’s unnec- layering purposes. nue shops and her best-per- essary.” “They just don’t look expensive ▼ forming store for denim is to me,” she said of the group, which “My private school the Spring Street location. wholesales at about $45 each. girls, stroller moms Pecor wanted to Pecor’s Pecor said she was hoping to see and tourists will all place orders for white favorite some more , as she sells love them,” Pecor jeans, which Seven For piece from more of them in the fall than in said of Splendid’s All Mankind wasn’t Ella Moss spring and summer. thermal . offering this season, as — a long, “Girls feel more comfortable well as cropped jeans black, wearing a mini with in the fall, so I tend to sell that tend to sell well hooded more for fall,” she said. “The skirts that Ella Moss has for early fall. She may top. this season are the same ones she has been offering for order more cropped seasons now. I was hoping to see something new.” jeans, but said she would prefer them to Stop 3: Splendid at L’Atelier Showroom ship first. Salesperson: Eleanor Pan, sales representative. “Seven has such an What Pecor found: “I carry a lot of T-shirts, but Splendid amazing product,” Pecor has some of the great basics,” Pecor said of the contem- said. “They are every- porary T-shirt line. one’s basic. My customers She ordered more basic long-sleeved V-neck and tell me all the time that crewneck styles in some of the new colors being offered, they own several pairs of such as bright pink and plum. For the end of August, Pecor Sevens. So I really would placed orders for light jersey crewnecks and turtlenecks. like to get more of them in “The turtlenecks are great to wear under jackets,’’ the stores.”

Pecor said. “I’ll sell a lot of them.” ▼ She also placed orders for thermal zippered sweat- Pecor is trying to give her shirts with hoods, as well as a French terry hoodie: “My denim business a boost with jeans from Seven For All Mankind. WWD, THURSDAY, MAY 20, 2004 11 Boneparth Says Jones Will Keep Up With Acquisitions By Evan Clark Rather than focusing on how “This has been a year of very The vendor also expanded $328.6 million, or $2.48 a diluted large Jones will ultimately be, positive change,” said Boneparth through the acquisition of share, after the exclusion of an NEW YORK — Peter Boneparth, Boneparth is concentrating on in his report on the company’s Kasper A.S.L. last year, which accounting adjustment. Sales Jones Apparel Group’s chief ex- how to increase sales by double progress. brought the New for the 12 months ended Dec. 31 ecutive officer and one of fash- digits. In addition to organic In 2003, Jones dropped the York, AK Anne Klein, Kasper, rose 0.8 percent to $4.38 billion. ion’s biggest deal makers, ex- growth, Jones plans to maintain contested Lauren by Ralph Le Suit and Albert Nipon busi- “It’s been a good year,” said pects even more industry consol- its pace of acquisitions and new Lauren license and filed a $550 nesses on board, along with an- Boneparth. “Our job is not to get idation down the road. business launches. million breach-of-contract law- nual sales of about $375 million. complacent.” “A small number of compa- At the meeting, Boneparth suit against Polo Ralph Lauren “The goal here is to create a The corporate machinery nies in this industry will end up said, “Clearly, we create more Corp., which owns the name and bullet-proof company,” said hasn’t slowed much, as Jones is being much larger,” he said after long-term value by ownership of had licensed it to Jones. The Boneparth, noting that this now in the midst of a hostile bid the firm’s annual meeting brands.” suit could go to trial next year. would come by not being overly for Maxwell Co. After the Wednesday, held here at Bear, He declared the company’s For spring, Jones launched reliant on any one customer or meeting, Boneparth noted, Stearns & Co.’s health “excellent” and its bal- the Jones New York Signature channel of distribution. “Maxwell is certainly a company offices. ance sheet “rock solid.” Lasting line, which competes with the Jones’ stable of businesses we would like to buy, but it’s not Despite a busy year for the about six minutes, the meeting Lauren line now produced by includes better and moderate a company we have to buy.” company in 2003, Boneparth said passed with a speed and smooth- Polo. Signature is on course to wholesale apparel, footwear There are also product Jones will continue to be a major ness that belied the dynamic year bring in sales of more than $200 and retail. In 2003, the firm’s launches “in the test tube,” he player in that consolidation. it brought to a close. million this year. earnings dipped 1.1 percent to said, declining to be specific. Calvin Klein Lifts PVH 1Q Earnings NEW YORK — Phillips-Van Heusen Corp. shattered Wall Street’s first-quarter estimate by a nickel thanks, in part, to strong results from Calvin Klein. For the three months ended May 2, the New York-based branded apparel manufacturer reported net income of $1.6 mil- lion, which translated to a loss of 12 cents a diluted share after de- ducting preferred stock divi- dends. Last year, by comparison, the company recorded a net loss of $2.2 million, or 22 cents. However, after excluding charges in both years from the Calvin Klein acquisition and other items, earnings grew 42.3 percent to $11.1 million, or 18 cents, from $7.8 million, or 11 cents, a year ago. Wall Street had anticipated earnings of 13 cents. Total revenues dipped 0.6 percent to $381.3 million from $383.7 million a year ago, but in- creased 1 percent from $377.7 million after excluding restruc- turing and other items. In addi- tion to the Calvin Klein pur- chase, restructuring charges in- cluded PVH’s discontinuation of its wholesale footwear business and the closure of some under- performing retail outlet stores, among other items. As for the Calvin Klein busi- ness, total revenues amassed to $41 million, which represented a 1.5 percent decline over last year before special items, but a 15.1 percent improvement when com- paring continuing operations. Moreover, the segment posted op- erating income of $13.2 million versus a year-ago loss of $2.7 mil- lion. On a comparable basis, op- erating income advanced 6.7 per- cent from $12.4 million. “The Calvin Klein better women’s sportswear line, li- censed to a joint venture formed by Kellwood and GAV, has re- ceived excellent response and sales have been strong since its launch in March,” said chief ex- ecutive officer Bruce Klatsky in a statement. In guidance, PVH said sec- ond-quarter earnings excluding charges are forecast at 24 to 25 cents a share, which is in line with the current consensus esti- mate of 25 cents. Full-year earn- ings without charges are forecast at $1.13 to $1.18, better than Wall Street’s current outlook of $1.13. — Dan Burrows 12 WWD, THURSDAY, MAY 20, 2004 XTheWWDList Much of Manhattan retail real estate has proven to be surprisingly resilient despite 9/11 and the recession. Average asking rents rose 12 percent throughout the city for stores of 1,000 square feet or less. Available space declined by 19 percent, or 2.7 million square feet, according to the Real Estate Manhattan Storefront Board of New York’s Spring 2004 Retail Report, which provided the data for this list. The neighborhoods Percentage change, per square foot, in average asking rents for 13 neighborhoods, with the biggest rent increases are those with high foot traffic and plenty of tourists. , West comparing March 2004 with March 2003. 34th Street, and Fifth Avenue all fit the bill.

34TH STREET: BETWEEN FIFTH AND SEVENTH AVENUES 83.2 percent 2004 asking price: $262; 2003 asking price: $143 With more than 100 million people passing through the four corners of 34th Street and annually, many chains, including Gap, have their highest-volume 1 flagships on the street. Zales, Forever 21, American Eagle Outfitters and Famous Footwear are opening stores on the thoroughfare, Herald Center is getting a facelift and Manhattan Mall is attracting tenants such as Aeropostale and Charlotte Russe.

57TH STREET: BETWEEN FIFTH AND PARK AVENUES 54.8 percent 2004 asking price: $850; 2003 asking price: $549 East 57th Street continues to command some of the highest retail rents in Manhattan. In the past year, activity on the street has included the opening of an 11-story 2 Louis Vuitton flagship, the biggest in the world, as well as the debuts of boutiques for Christian Dior Homme, Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche and Furla.

TIMES SQUARE: SEVENTH AVENUE, BETWEEN 42ND AND 47TH STREETS 30.2 percent 2004 asking price: $271; 2003 asking price: $208 Times Square has been buffed and shined to a gloss. The stretch of Seventh Avenue in the heart of the theater district is not for the meek. such as 3 Bubba-Gump Shrimp and Paramount Cafe cater to big appetites. Stores such as R.A.G., Sunglass Hut, World and Perfumania ply the tourist trade. It’s no surprise the vacant — formerly the Warner Brothers Studio Store — is being marketed as a retail and branding opportunity.

TIMES SQUARE: BROADWAY, BETWEEN 42ND AND 47TH STREETS 22.8 percent 2004 asking price: $398; 2003 asking price: $324 Broadway’s theaters are dependent on tourists, and tourists need places to eat and shop. ESPN Zone, Planet Hollywood, Sephora, Footlocker, the Virgin Mega Store 4 and Toys ‘R’ Us with its giant Ferris wheel and T. Rex have turned Broadway into the theme park-like attraction they crave. With more than 250,000 people passing through Times Square subway stations every day, the area has one of the highest pedestrian counts in the city.

FIFTH AVENUE: BETWEEN 49TH AND 59TH STREETS 10.9 percent 2004 asking price: $717; 2003 asking price: $646 The most desirable stretch of Fifth Avenue keeps changing. In the Eighties, there were entertainment retailers and electronics stores having permanent going-out-of- 5 business sales. They’re both gone now. Luxury nameplates have always staked a claim to Fifth Avenue and now have the biggest presence, but there are also brands with wider appeal. In addition to Gap and Mexx, Zara will open a flagship in the former Façonnable store on the corner of Fifth Avenue and .

MADISON AVENUE: BETWEEN 57TH AND 67TH STREETS 3.7 percent 2004 asking price: $701; 2003 asking price: $676 Global brands with flagships on Fifth Avenue or 57th Street, such as Chanel and Gucci, view Madison Avenue as a different market — the neighborhood is a 6 stomping ground for wealthy New Yorkers — and have opened second and third units there. Louis Vuitton has the same idea. There are fewer “For Rent” signs than last year. New stores include boutiques for Judith Leiber and Jimmy Choo.

TIMES SQUARE: , BETWEEN SIXTH AND SEVENTH AVENUES 1.2 percent 2004 asking price: $169; 2003 asking price: $167 42nd Street, which was synonymous with crime and prostitution, has become a family destination. In place of peep shows, there’s good wholesome entertainment at 7 venues such as Disney’s New Amsterdam Theater, The for children and Madame Tussaud’s. Retailers such as Gap, Sanrio’s Hello Kitty store and take advantage of the 1.7 million people passing through the area each day.

BROADWAY: BETWEEN 72ND AND 86TH STREETS -0.83 percent 2004 asking price: $238; 2003 asking price: $240 There’s always a pioneer. In the Seventies and Eighties, Charivari, the edgy fashion emporium, led the way to the Upper West Side, but succumbed to bankruptcy in 8 1997. Barneys Co-op, which has had its own share of woes, is now opening a store on Broadway and 75th Street. It will be the most upscale store in the area with neighbors such as Papyrus, Body Shop and Health Nuts. But if things go well, expect other apparel retailers to follow.

SOHO: BROADWAY, BETWEEN HOUSTON AND BROOME STREETS -1.8 percent 2004 asking price: $162; 2003 asking price $165 The opening of Bloomingdale’s has given Broadway a shot of adrenaline and the traffic is spilling over to other parts of SoHo. The area is attracting new names such as Japanese import Bathing Ape, West Coast players and LF and Netherlands-based G Star Raw. The Elie Tahari Co. is marking its return to 9 retail with a store in SoHo, and Lynn Cohen, who owned Rue de Reves on West Broadway in the Eighties, is back with a store called Runway.

THIRD AVENUE: BETWEEN 60TH AND 72ND STREETS -3.5 percent 2004 asking price: $193; 2003 asking price: $200 The roster of stores on , between 60th and 72nd Streets, reads like a mall directory with national brands such as Ann Taylor Loft, Gap, Club , Banana Republic and Starbucks. Above 72nd Street, it’s a different story. Independent chains such as L’Occitane, Molton Brown, Kate’s Paperie and Scoop have 10 taken root on the upper stretch of Third Avenue.

TRIBECA: HUDSON STREET, BETWEEN CHAMBER AND CANAL STREETS -10 percent 2004 asking price: $54; 2003 asking price: $60 The TriBeCa Grand heralded the neighborhood’s arrival. It’s become a nexus for home furnishings shops and art galleries, many of which fled SoHo’s 11 prerecession rent increases. The Issey Miyake outpost on Hudson Street is a destination for the designer’s fans, and restaurants such as Nobu bring the uptown crowd downtown. TriBeCa landlords are now competing with the more populous SoHo, where rents have dropped.

DOWNTOWN: BROADWAY, BETWEEN BATTERY PARK AND CHAMBERS STREET * -10 percent 2004 asking price: $54; 2003 asking price: $60 The partnership of government agencies and the private sector has accelerated the recovery of downtown Manhattan. Luxe such as The Regent Wall Street, 12 Ritz-Carlton in Battery Park City and new Millennium Hotel bode well for the future and residential development is on the rise. The new World Trade Center will have about 650,000 square feet devoted to retail space and could be anchored by a department store.

FLATIRON: FIFTH AVENUE, BETWEEN 14TH AND 23RD STREETS * -12.7 percent 2004 asking price: $137; 2003 asking price: $157 Since the Flatiron district began attracting fashion companies in the late Eighties, it’s become an urban mall with the added attractions of great restaurants and a 13 Greenmarket. Esprit, which will take over the Emporio space, will join Anthropologie, Club Monaco, Eileen Fisher, Kenneth Cole, J. Crew, Banana Republic and Daffy’s. Activity is also heating up in Union Square, where Mexx opened a unit.

AVERAGE MANHATTAN RETAIL RENTS BY STORE SIZE 12 percent 2004 asking price for 1,000 square feet and under: $155 per square foot; 2003 asking price for 1,000 square feet and under: $138 per square foot.

SOURCE: THE REAL ESTATE BOARD OF NEW YORK, SPRING 2004 RETAIL REPORT *SIGNIFIES A TIE PHOTO CREDITS: EMPIRE STATE BUILDING AND DEAN & DELUCA: GAIL MOONEY/CORBIS; TRIBECA GRILL: THOMAS A. KELLY/CORBIS; WALL STREET: CRAIG AURNESS/CORBIS; : BILL ROSS/CORBIS; ERIK FREELAND/CORBIS SABA; TIMES SQUARE (SEVENTH AVENUE): JEFF CHRISTENSEN/REUTERS/CORBIS; TIMES SQUARE (BROADWAY): ALAN SCHEIN PHOTOGRAPHY/CORBIS; SAKS FIFTH AVENUE: JAMES LEYNSE/CORBIS; MADISON AVENUE AND MACY’S: LYNN GOLDSMITH/CORBIS; THIRD AVENUE: LAWRENCE LUCIER/GETTY IMAGES; DIOR: JAMES LEYNSE/CORBIS; ZABARS: DAVID TURNER Right look. Right size. Right fit. When it comes to expanding your business, Robert K. Futterman & Associates is the perfect accessory. Whether you’re looking to expand locally, regionally or nationally, our team of retail leasing experts will work with you to analyze your business objectives and devise a customized expansion strategy that meets your needs. We’ll also analyze future trends and emerging market opportunities to ensure your long-term growth. And like that great pair of pumps, we’re the ideal fit. To learn more, call Robert Futterman at 212.599.3700.

Pump up your retail space.

Transforming the retail landscape. www.rkf.com 14 WWD, THURSDAY, MAY 20, 2004 Obituary Steven Kaufmann, Bill Blass Confidant P&G Restructures By Eric Wilson ing served as a noncommissioned fice or any customer that we had. officer on the Queen Mary, which Kaufmann cut a dashing fig- Global Operations NEW YORK — Steven Kaufmann, carried troops to from the ure, wearing fine-tailored clothing a descendant of Pittsburgh’s U.S. He became part of a group with high collars and always a tie. NEW YORK — Procter & Gamble themselves and give them a sense Kaufmann retail dynasty and a that included Blass, Glenn Bern- “He was a true raconteur and is revamping its global business of empowerment,” Comenge as- fixture in the late designer Bill baum (who owned and operated boulevardier,” Wilmot said. “The units and is streamlining the serted. “We are trying to bring to Blass’ circle of high society Mortimer’s until his joke was always that Stevie lived number of units it operates, the retail environment more than friends, died Tuesday at his Man- death in 1998) and Jerome Zipkin, life in reverse, which is the best ahead of the retirement of sever- beauty advice, but also health ed- hattan home. He was 90. the society walker who died in way. Everybody should live their al senior officers in the next six ucation. For doctors to come to Kaufmann was diagnosed with 1995. lives that way, having fun in their months to a year. the store, it changes the environ- lung cancer less than a year ago, Former First Lady Nancy youth and then working at the One of the five senior officers ment. Obviously, it’s also to sell said publicist Paul Wilmot, a Reagan described Kaufmann as end. He remained curious to the retiring is Martin J. Nuechtern, the product.” friend. He retired from PBM “a nice man who will be missed end. That is the way to hang on to president, global hair care, who Comenge and his business- Apparel Co., the former Bill Blass by many. I’m sure he will be your youth.” will leave in partner wife, men’s wear licensee, last year and missed by his many friends.” Fallon recalled that when he June after over Debra Kaye, remained in good spirits just a Thanks to family money, Kauf- met Blass in 1968, Kaufmann 26 years with plan to bring week ago, correcting a friend who mann did not have to work for was already part of the regular the company. BEAUTY BEAT their “dream had meant to compliment Kauf- most of his life, but after he suf- crowd at holiday parties with On July 1, team” on the mann when describing him as fered losses in the stock market Bernbaum and Zipkin. Blass P&G will streamline its business road and do similar presenta- “the last of the boulevardiers.” while in his 70s, Blass hired him and Kaufmann spoke every day units from four to three: global tions at Nordstrom in Seattle “He asked me, ‘Did you ever at PBM, then known as Pincus for as long as he could recall, beauty care, global health, baby and Bellevue, Wash., in July and look up what boulevardier means Bros.-Maxwell, the master li- noting that Kaufmann was one and family care and global , San Francisco, Los in the dictionary?’” said Tom cense for Bill Blass men’s wear, of only four individuals who household care. Angeles and possibly Miami in Fallon, a longtime design associ- Fallon said. PBM is in the midst were named in the designer’s Each unit will be headed by a the fall. “We may also do it with ate of Blass who works for the of transferring the Blass men’s will when Blass died in 2002. vice chairman. Among those associations and charities that Carlisle Collection. “He said it business to Neema Clothing Ltd. “I once asked Blass, ‘Who, of named to such a role was Susan are not store-related,” Kaye isn’t very attractive. But I meant it David Pincus, chairman of all the people you’ve met in E. Arnold, current president, noted. in the best sense of the word, that PBM, described Kaufmann’s role your life, who could you tell me global personal beauty care and “It’s public education — and I had run into him on the streets there as that of an ambassador to is really happy,’” Fallon recalled global feminine care, who will it gets your name out,” said so many times over the years and the brand, building client rela- of a philosophical conversation become vice chairman of the Wendy Lewis, a skin and plastic he always was perfectly dressed.” tionships and working the indus- he once had with the designer. global beauty care unit. Her new surgery consultant and author Kaufmann was a member of try black-tie circuit for the firm. “He said, ‘That’s easy. Stevie post adds global hair care and re- who introduced the panel and the family that founded the “He was probably the most Kaufmann. He’s enjoyed his life tail hair colorant responsibilities later signed copies of her book, Kaufmann’s Department Store lovable person, a father figure, a more than anybody I ever to her duties, although she will “Beauty Battle.” “Consumers re- chain — the son of Nathan and grandfather, rabbi, patron saint knew.’” not serve on the company’s board spond really well to a physicians’ Selma Kaufmann. He was a that anybody could ever have Kaufmann is survived by of directors. Arnold will report to seminar,” she said. cousin of Edgar Kaufmann Jr., working for them,” Pincus said. Edward DeLuca, his companion P&G chief executive A.G. Lafley. Comenge told the assemblage who owned the famed Frank “We’ve been in business for 95 for 18 years. Bruce L. Byrnes, currently that metabolism, glands and Lloyd Wright-designed house, years. I’ve been at this firm over Funeral services were planned vice chairman of the board and hormones are the triggers of Fallingwater, in Mill Run, Pa. 50 years, and I’ve never had any- for 11 a.m. Friday at Temple president, global beauty and fem- aging, and he claimed, “We have Steven Kaufmann arrived in one that was so loved and cared Emanu-El, 1 East 65th Street at inine care and global health care the ability to address how hor- New York after World War II, hav- so much about anybody in our of- Fifth Avenue. with responsibilities for hair mones and metabolism make care, will become vice chairman the skin work.” of the board and of the global Nordstrom executives de- household care unit. clined to reveal sales for the As well, P&G’s global beauty event. Store manager Sally Mc- business will now be realigned Devitt said, “It’s really about con- under four presidents, reporting necting with the customer and to Arnold. having new relationships, and we Christopher de LaPuente, cur- met a lot of new people who had- rently vice president, United n’t been in the store before.” Kingdom and , will be- A portion of sales was ear- come president of global hair marked for Attitudes & Attire, a care. Paolo deCesare, currently nonprofit group that advises dis- president, global prestige beauty advantaged women on how to and skin care, will become presi- enter the workplace — and dress- dent, global prestige beauty, skin es them for it. Most of the guests and global personal cleansing. were supporters of the charity. Code Marc S. Pritchard, currently pres- After the presentation, as ident, global , deodor- women received complimentary ants/Old Spice and hair colorants, MAC makeovers and foot mas- will become president, global cos- sages with Kneipp oils, the longest Cracker metics and hair colorants. Martin line trailed from nutritionist Oz Riant, current president, global Garcia, who met customers and feminine care, will assume re- signed his book, “Look and Feel 2987453280 sponsibility for deodorants/Old Fabulous Forever.” Spice and will become president, In his talk, Garcia had blamed global feminine care and global sugar for adhering to body tissues deodorants/Old Spice. and “increasing the rate at which — Andrea Nagel you age.” He recommended cut- ting back on wheat and increas- ing consumption of vegetables, Doctors Boost Beauty berries and foods high in omega- DALLAS — Does a little educa- 3 fatty acids, such as fish. tion sell beauty products and The other panelists were The industry The news online at 12:01am EDT services? Jose Llados-Comenge Gregg Lituchy, a New York cos- 6 continents, 11 bureaus, 203 thinks so. The skin care entre- metic dentist, and Fritz E. Barton intelligence you reporters for unmatched coverage preneur got together a few other Jr., a Dallas plastic surgeon and high-profile physicians and retired head of plastic surgery at need to plan Search the previous five issues of WWD online health consultants to give an the University of South- your next move. 24/7 access on your desktop, anytime, anywhere hour-long beauty seminar last western Medical School. Lituchy Thursday evening at Nordstrom showed before-and-after images in the Dallas Galleria mall. of smiles made more brilliant by Topics included nutrition, porcelain tooth veneers. Barton skin care, noninvasive beauty described the pros and cons of in- treatments and tooth veneers jectable facial fillers and cau- for the perfect smile. tioned, “If you put a fad on your Afterward, the 150 guests, face, you’ve got it forever.” WWD mostly women, were invited to Petra Ramelo was uncon- Go to .com check out Comenge’s BioTexture vinced. “I’m from Europe, and skin care line, as well as nutri- there is such a youth craziness first. insider. authoritative. global. tional supplements and books, or here,” she commented. “I have to chat with the speakers about spaces in my teeth, but it’s my cosmetic dental and plastic sur- smile. I’m over 50 and I have gery procedures. wrinkles on my face, but this is “This is intended to educate my life — this is my face.” people to take better care of —Holly Haber WWD, THURSDAY, MAY 20, 2004 15 Atlantic City Rolls the Dice for Luxury

By David Moin Rendering of the interior at NEW YORK — There’s a new game com- The Pier at Caesars. ing to Atlantic City — and it’s called luxu- ry fashion retailing. Gucci, , Louis Vuitton, Armani A|X, Bebe, Bebe Sport and Burberry are among the brands that Gordon Group Holdings has signed to be tenants for its $145 million retail, dining and entertainment complex, called The Pier at Caesars, Scott Gordon, president of the family-owned developer based in Greenwich, Conn., told WWD in an exclu- sive interview. The 575,000-square-foot project is to rise on the site of an existing pier and ex- tend 900 feet into the Atlantic Ocean. It would have about 100 retail and restau- rant tenants on four levels that cover a total of 315,000 square feet, Gordon said. The plan is to open The Pier for the sum- mer 2005 season. “About 20 tenants will be pure luxu- ry,’’ he said. “That’s a good chunk and Atlantic City is the “biggest sleeper in terms of retail. — ” definitely enough to make a statement with luxury brands, but not an over- whelming chunk.” Atlantic City, unlike its main gambling and entertainment competitor, , has not had an enclave for luxury or de- signer brands. Hotel-casino operators, such as Donald Trump, said that means untapped potential. “Atlantic City is the biggest sleeper in terms of retail,” said Trump, whose hold- ings include Trump Plaza, Trump Taj Mahal and Trump Marina. “You watch what happens. The Pier at Caesars will be a tremendous success. There is a huge mar- ket. Some of the people walk around in T- shirts and spend a million [dollars] a night.” Atlantic City draws about 32 million visitors a year, according to statistics from the Convention and Visitors Bureau. Las Vegas had 35.5 million visitors in 2003, said the Las Vegas Convention and Visitors Authority. Las Vegas had $6.1 bil- lion in gaming revenues in 2003, while the New York Times reported that Atlantic City compiled $4.3 billion in gaming rev- Rendering of The Pier at Caesars. enue in 2002. Seventy-five percent of Atlantic City’s a beach,’’ Gordon said. “Now they’ll have Michael Facenda, director of market- square foot and is undergoing its second revenues are through gaming and 25 per- something else.” ing services of the Borgata, which phase of expansion. It’s considered cent nongaming, including retail and His father, Sheldon Gordon, chairman opened in July 2003, said, “Based on cus- among the most productive major shop- restaurants, Gordon Group said. In Las of Gordon Group, said in a statement, tomer research, pre- and post-opening, it ping centers in the country. Vegas, it’s a 50-50 split. “Just as The Forum Shops was a catalyst is clear to us that the right retail offer- Elkus Manfredi of Boston and the Burberry, Vuitton and Gucci each are for the explosion of Las Vegas, The Pier ings add to an upscale experience. It’s Rockwell Group of New York are creat- taking 4,000 to 5,000 square feet, while at Caesars is an overture of what Atlantic very important and the customer is ask- ing The Pier at Caesars, which is a Hugo Boss will occupy 2,600 square feet, City will become in the future.” ing for it. We are doing $1,400 [in sales restoration of an old pier and located in Gordon said. The luxury component will While a few of the retailers in Trump’s per square foot] and we are working to the center of the Boardwalk. constitute about 50,000 to 60,000 square casinos do sell fashion merchandise, design the right formula for a product “It will be very contemporary, with a feet. Gordon Group, which is known for cre- when it comes to designer goods, it’s pri- mix for the expansion.” boardwalk which is like teak wood,” ating unusual retail settings and then sell- marily accessories. Cache has stores in The Borgata has 11 specialty units, in- Gordon said. The Pier would be 200 feet ing them, is also in discussions with Tiffany, Taj Mahal and Trump Plaza, while the cluding the Carina boutique with wide. The second level is to house the among other top retailers, Gordon said. Taj also has Andrew Geller shoes and ac- women’s apparel, accessories and shoes, top-priced luxury merchants and a “We don’t do cookie-cutter projects,” cessories. Bernie Robbins fine jewelry with styles from Prada, Dolce & Gabbana bridge to Caesars casino hotel, while the Gordon said. “We pride ourselves on has units at Taj and Trump Marina, and and Manolo Blahnik. There is also the first level would be more for impulse challenges and we focus on niche prop- at Trump Plaza there is also Fine Misura men’s shop, selling designers shopping, with Bebe as well as jewelry erties. We are a family business. Not a by Barron, selling Prada, Coach such as Hugo Boss and Prada as well as and athletic shoe stores. The third and REIT [Real Estate Investment Trust]. We and Fendi, among other major brands. furnishings; Borgata Jewels, with items fourth levels are intended for restau- take one project at a time.” “At this point, we are looking at ex- from Rolex, Cartier, Brietling and Franck rants and night clubs. Gordon said there would be some cos- pansion plans with Trump Taj Mahal, Mueller, among others, and Bambino, for Restaurants in The Pier are to include metics stores, each in the 1,000-square- and that will include additional retail, children’s wear and toys. Stephen Starr’s Buddakan and El Vez, as foot range, as well as other better brands, but there is nothing to announce yet,” “In Atlantic City, merchandise retail well as Phillips Seafood of Baltimore. Pier including Guess. Gordon Group has code- said Paul R. Ryan, executive vice presi- has been more of a convenience — the Developers Inc., an affiliate of Gordon veloped Forum Shops in Las Vegas, dent of operations for Trump Hotel kind of things that people need when Group Holdings LLC., plans to announce which is now owned by Simon Property Casino Resorts. they are in hotel, as opposed to leisure more fashion tenants and restaurants, and Group, and developed The Shops at In addition, The Walk outlet center in shopping,’’ Ryan said. “There is no ques- is expected to officially announce the Mohegan Sun Casino in , as Atlantic City plans to expand and the tion that the marketplace is changing.” those tenants today. well as having leasing and development Borgata Casino Hotel & Spa is proposing Gordon said he thinks The Pier can The Pier would be connected to Caesars associations with Bridgemarket in New a 500,000-square-foot expansion that ultimately exceed $1,000 in sales per Atlantic City by a skybridge and be linked York City, San Francisco Center and The might bring more luxury retailers. The square foot, making it one of the more to Bally’s Atlantic City, which includes the Beverly Center in Los Angeles. Borgata project also includes adding productive centers in the U.S., but he Claridge and Wild Wild West casinos. “We are trying to tap into the millions bars and restaurants and spa enhance- said he had no idea how productive it Caesars Entertainment, which owns the of people who never looked to Atlantic ments. The hotel does not have branded would be initially. The Forum Shops in pier itself, will lease to Pier Developers City for anything more than gambling or designer shops. Las Vegas exceeds $1,300 in sales per for 75 years. 16 WWD, THURSDAY, MAY 20, 2004 Hotel Bulgari Opens Doors

By Amanda Kaiser and Samantha Conti — Bulgari has unveiled its latest jewel — and the company is hoping the brand extension will dazzle as much as a mountain of diamonds. On Tuesday morning, chief executive Francesco Trapani unveiled Hotel Bulgari, the first in a chain of seven luxury hotels and resorts that will bear the brand’s name. Prices for the hotel’s 52 guest rooms — there will be 58 by year’s end — range from $680 to $890 a night for a stan- dard room up to $4,160 for the Bulgari suite. “It’s an instrument we’re using to reinforce our brand image,” Trapani said as he cut the ribbon during a news conference at the hotel here, locat- A rendering of the dinner decor planned for the ed on Via Fratelli Gabba, just behind La Scala. ’s Gottesman Exhibition Hall. The ceo is hoping the hotel will build the Bulgari brand in the eyes of the public, and he’s already thinking about the myriad cross-market- ing and public relations opportunities. CFDA’s Awards Gala “There’s no reason why we can’t sell an engaged couple their rings, host their wedding at our Milan hotel and then send them off to our To Applaud Hometown one for their honeymoon,” Trapani told WWD in an interview last month. By Eric Wilson Bulgari’s next hotel will open on the Indonesian island at the end of 2005. It will feature 60 cliffside NEW YORK — The Council of Fashion Designers of America is in a villas, each with a pool and terrace. “We want it to New York state of mind. be the best resort in Bali,” said Trapani, adding the Given the selection of New York-centric designer company also has two “magnificent projects” on for a lifetime achievement award and the flattering attention gar- the boil in London and New York. nered by a new generation of designers who have broken onto the Trapani said he plans to pick through the city’s fashion scene in recent years, the CFDA felt it was befitting to Bulgari files to find prospective hotel clients and use Manhattan as the conceptual point for its annual awards night open Bulgari stores in his future hotels where on June 7 at the New York Public Library. the brand isn’t already present. The decor of the event is envisioned as reflecting the city at twi- “Of course, if clients come and see something From top: a light, with shades of blue and green on glass, crystal, mirrors and ugly, poorly managed and if the food is bad, then bedroom, the lighting in the dining area, and the cocktail reception bathed in it could damage the brand and the PR machine spa area, and lights reflected from curtains embroidered with thousands of peri- becomes a bomb,” he said with a laugh. “But an outdoor view. dot-colored crystal balls, in a nod to the event’s underwriter, that’s not going to happen.” Swarovski. The CFDA has enlisted Eric Ripert, chef of one of the Indeed, he said during Tuesday’s news con- city’s luxury restaurants, , to create a menu for the ference that the attention paid to detail “goes night with caterer Hank Tomashevski for the $2,000-a-plate dinner. back to another time, like a circa-1930 hotel or a The organization also asked designers to offer quotations on their cruise ship.” impressions of New York, which will be featured in a journal being Designed by the Italian architect and interior produced by creative director Doug Lloyd of Lloyd & Co. designer Antonio Citterio, Hotel Bulgari has “One of the things that we have always heard from members of chocolate walls, dark furniture and high ceilings, the CFDA is that they want the awards to be relevant,” said Ed and a look more monastic than English country. Filipowski, a president of KCD, which is producing the event for the The materials, however, are rich. The walls are second consecutive year. “We felt that was an important note to hit — made of teak, and some of the furniture is cov- to celebrate the things that are great and diverse and brilliant about ered in black leather, while the low, wide-backed New York.” armchairs and long overstuffed sofas are Peter Arnold, executive director of the CFDA, added, “We have all swathed in organic cotton. promise the uniqueness of this project. I don’t come to appreciate the scope, the brilliance and the diversity of the Upstairs, the rooms are furnished with the want to open hotels for the sake of it.” community of designers working in New York, and in all parts of same cotton fabrics in earth tones like barley, Trapani also said the original budget foresaw America.” chocolate, ecru and heather. In the spirit of the spending about $10 million on average for each This year, following cocktails in Astor Hall and preceding the sup- property’s past life as a convent, some of the hotel. The Milan project, however, cost less than per-club-style awards presentation in the NYPL’s Celeste Bartos rooms even have designated meditation corners, that. Indeed, Trapani said Bulgari is renting the Forum, dinner will be served in the Gottesman Exhibition Hall on complete with tatami mats. Milan space from a real estate company that paid the first floor. The event is expected to raise in excess of $1 million Downstairs in the spa, butterscotch stone from all the building’s restructuring costs. for the CFDA. Vicenza covers the walls, while the underwater With regard to the Bali resort, Bulgari won’t This is the first time a dinner is being staged in the Gottesman steps on the shallow side of the emerald green be investing anything — a local investor will pick room, which is directly behind Hall at the library’s main pool glitter with gold tiles reminiscent of up the bill, and Bulgari will collect royalties. Fifth Avenue entrance. the ancient world. Trapani confirmed, however, that the estimat- “The room is symmetrical, with beautifully carved arches and Trapani said it was crucial that Citterio create ed value of the seven projects will still be in the ceiling, all of which gives you a feeling of intimacy,” said Julie a contemporary, but not a minimalist, feeling. region of $800 million. However, the format of the Mannion, another KCD president, noting that elements of the decor “Bulgari is not about minimalism — which is why new ventures means Bulgari’s financial expo- include blue linen tablecloths, illuminated vitrines and, in the cen- we used heavy, rich materials. This is not a bou- sure to the hotels will be minimized compared ter of the room, a glass-and-crystal sculpture made for the event by tique hotel; it’s a big, prestigious hotel, which is with the original plan. artist Harry Alan that is meant to evoke the city’s skyline. why we wanted a sense of gravity.” Trapani said the hotel project isn’t going to Video presentations being directed by Jun Diaz and Douglas The ground-floor restaurant looks out onto a have an impact on the company’s consolidated Keeve will include references to New York, and Lloyd’s journal fea- garden, which has its own meditation paths for numbers. “It’s not going to make a difference to tures a similar color theme to the library, each purple page printed solitary walkers. our core business,” he said. with images from the nominees’ runway shows spliced into a film Trapani said that, since announcing plans for With regard to the impact of the strong euro, strip and quotes about their New York inspiration. Women’s wear a hotel chain with Marriott in February 2001, and the threat of terrorism in Europe, Trapani designer of the year nominee , who is hosting the awards there have been some changes. He admits that said: “Europe still has the raw material for with Narciso Rodriguez and Karan, for example, said, “What is most opening seven hotels by 2008 now seems “a bit on tourism: It has nature, it has art. Unless the inspiring about New York is its variety — many voices, ideas, ener- the optimistic side,” as it has not been easy find- threat of terrorism continues, I don’t think this gy and stimulation. New York is a good meeting place for people who ing ideal properties. “And I don’t want to com- will be a long-term crisis.” like to move a lot.”

officials, who were able to persuade the Republican group to Meisel, are expected to be unveiled at the party. find another location for its luncheon. Fashion Scoops ALL THE NEWS: Neil Kraft, president of KraftWorks, the New York PAJAMA PARTY: Calvin Klein’s head of visual display, Dale ad agency, and photographer Peter Lindbergh were riding REPUBLICAN RETREAT: Bryant Park is now officially safe for fashion Rozmiarek, has been scouring the city for an unusual array of downtown Tuesday to the Meatpacking District to do a shoot for designers and Democrats. A proposal to hold a Congressional beds, chaises and boudoir tables for the launch party for the when Kraft read that day’s article in The New York luncheon in the park at the conclusion of the Republican National latest offerings from Calvin Klein Underwear on Friday night, Times about Harper’s Bazaar. In it, Sam Shahid, owner of ad Convention in September had thrown designers for a loop when which is being hosted by campaign models Hilary Swank and agency Shahid & Co., was quoted as saying that he wasn’t buying they realized it would curtail prep time for the installation of the Freddie Ljungberg. Five women and at least a dozen male models advertising in Harper’s Bazaar for his clients such as Abercrombie 7th on Sixth tents — to the point where the venue would be have reportedly been booked to lounge provocatively in their & Fitch and Wonderbra. At first, Kraft was taken aback (he was on infeasible for the Sept. 8-15 Olympus Fashion Week. during the event, although Swank and Ljungberg are his way to his client Wonderbra’s fashion shoot, after all), but then But according to Fern Mallis, executive director of 7th on expected to keep their clothes on. Although Ljungberg’s he and Lindbergh laughed it off when, further down, the article Sixth, the city has intervened. “The tents are going up as campaign broke several months ago, the first images of Swank referred to Lindbergh as the “Swedish-born fashion star.” He was scheduled,” she said Wednesday after meeting with city in Calvin Klein’s new Sensual Support collection, shot by Steven actually born in . So much for truth in advertising. It’s all about DENIM!

So many styles, so little time WWD Denim Chronicle Section II: June 24, 2004 Close: June 10

Be a part of educating retailers on the story of denim. WWD’s editors present a comprehensive encyclopedia on denim including terminology, definitions and background.

Coverage will include the latest lingo relating to the hottest trends and the differences in textiles used. Chronicle will be saved and referenced by industry executives for years to come. Y MARY MCDONALD

For more information on this or other denim issues, please contact Gus Floris, Fashion Manager, at 212-630-4636, JOHN ACQUINO; STYLED B PHOTO BY or Maurice “Corky” Newman, Associate Publisher, West Coast at 323-951-1803, Elena De Giuli, Account Executive, in Milan, at 011-39-02-7600-3926, Elizabeth Haynes, European Advertising Director, in Paris, at 011-331-4451-1303, or your WWD sales representative. WWDMediaWorldwide® 18 WWD, THURSDAY, MAY 20, 2004

DESIGNER ACCOUNTS PAYABLE Children’s Wear Mfr. Is Hiring for the Import Prod. Coordinator Long Island City based Jr. Sportswear following positions: Girlswear Co. seeks exp. Production co. seeks individual for accounts payable OUTERWEAR DESIGNER Coordinator, accustomed to fast paced department. Candidate must have both At least 3 yrs of experience in design- business. Must be organized and have OFF PRICE BRANDED APPAREL domestic & import "Garment Center" ing Kid’s wear ranging from strong communication and computer 50-70% off Original Wholesale. Women’s, exp. and be proficient in Solomon A/P Infant/Toddler to 7-16 in Girl’s and 8- skills. Technical a plus. Men’s & Kids. Warehouse appts avail. Retail system, Blue Cherry & Excel. Medical 20 in Boy’s. Strong creativity, eye for Fax resume to 212-869-2781, Attn. Cathy Contact Marsha @ 516-239-8111 Insurance & 401K. Company is con- detail and Knowlege of garment con- BEN ELIAS Energized. veniently located near the subway. struction. Proficient in Photoshop & Il- Jewelry Email resume & salary requirements to: lustrator required. And growing. [email protected] Growing manufacturer / importer GRAPHIC DESIGNER seeks qualified individuals: Creative with Strong Graphic Skills & Aeropostale is a rapidly expanding retailer with a fresh ap- ADMIN ASSISTANT Flair for interpreting Trend. Proficient Sales Executive: Exp req’d selling ma- proach to fashion. Our commitment to success is reflected in Detail oriented to assist key account in Photoshop & Illustrator.Flat sketch- jor dept stores and mass merchants. exec. with follow-up as it pertains to ing ability a plus. Seeking growth oriented professional the attention we give to developing dynamic careers. Current- orders in process, etc. Strong Fax resume to attn: DC at 212-564-9507 who has ability to manage accounts ly, we have the following opportunities available in our New computer skills a must. Pleasant and focus on business development. York, NY office: phone manner very important. Sales Assistant: Entry level in busy Call 212-840-0182 or fax 212-840-1098 sales dept. assisting with clerical du- Attn: Ivan ties, samples, telephones, showroom. Admin Since 1967 Designer:1-2 years exp in jewelry de- 36th St. Showroom-Offices-Brand New Technical Designers sign or product development. Excel- 900, 1500, 2200, 3500, 8000 Men’s Woven’s W-I-N-S-T-O-N lent sketching & technical drawing re- All Sizes-Hot Lofts-Low Prices DESIGNER Due to growth, we are seeking a candi- quired. Prime Manhattan Scott 212-268-8043 Women’s Knits and APPAREL STAFFING Fax resume / salary history : DESIGN*SALES*MERCH date with a high taste level to join our design team. Individual must be highly (718) 609-2726 or email to ADMIN*TECH*PRODUCTION [email protected] In this position, you will be responsible for the preparation of (212)557-5000 F: (212)986-8437 motivated, creative and well organized fit reports and the coordination and facilitation of fit sessions. w/ experience in contemporary dresses and sportswear. Familiar with and Manager/Production Qualified candidates must have a minimum of 2 years techni- understands the Shoshanna concept. Entry level position with dynamic cal design experience and a strong knowledge of garment ANGELS Contacts & knowledge in fully fash- small eveningwear co. Responsible grading/specifications, garment fit and construction and pos- Asst. Junior Jeanswear Designer ioned knits and beading. 3+ years ex- for studio and production operations. Creative, organized, experienced in perience required. Please e-mail or fax E-mail: pesaventocouture@.com sess the necessary skills related to their area of expertise. jeanswear specs/fluent in Chinese, resume and pertinent information to: Knowledge of Microsoft Excel and Outlook along with excel- overseas travel, diligent worker, E-mail: [email protected] MERCHANDISER $$$ expert sketcher. If this is you, Fax: 212-719-0745 Established Bridge Line seeks Mer- lent presentation, verbal, organizational and follow-up skills Fax resume to Miriam (212) 719-0263 and an understanding of our customer and lifestyle are es- chandiser with design background. DESIGNER Will work closely with designers to sential to success. Apparel Company Seeking exp’d indiv for missy mod up- recognize trends. Excellent career • MERCHANDISER - Seeking organized dated item driven/related separates & opportunity. Immediate Hire! & detail oriented to handle overseas dresses. Must hv contemp flair w great Contact Cindi, 212-947-3399 x16, CAD Operator vendors for Production & Fit Approvals. print, embroidery n color sense. Flat email: [email protected] • IMPORT ASSISTANT- Seeking smart sketch, spec & fit knowledge. Limited or fax 201-894-1186. organized to handle banking, factoring overseas travel, will consider steady KARLYN FASHION RECRUITERS In this position, you will be responsible for input of all pat- and shipping freelance. Fax resume to 914 654 0604, terns and mini bodies for design as well as the input of yarn E-Mail: [email protected] e-mail [email protected] OFFICE MANAGER 488 7th Ave (36th Street) dye patterns into correct constructions. You will also com- LIVE/WORK plete color ways for all inputs and sew stitch simulation with Assistant Designer DESIGNER Eric Gaskins Design Spacious Loft-Like Showroom different gauge cable. The qualified candidate must have 1- Leading junior import co. specializing Well established missy & jr knitwear Fast growing, established couture 2 baths, 2 entries ...... $2,950 in wovens. Candidates must possess a co seeks a designer with min 5 years design co seeks F/T or P/T candidate 2 years of related experience and be proficient with Prima Vi- with thorough knowledge of computer- 1BR Showroom Apts...... From $1495 minimum of 2 years experience. Have experience. A candidate must have sions "Graphics Mode" and "Knit Expert." worked with Illustrator 10, Photoshop 6. good skills in developing flat sketches, ized business programs, A/P, strong Wood floors, Hi Ceils. Immed Occup organizational and communication skills. 212-629-8694 M-F 10a-6pm No Fee Excellent technical & sketching skills, presentation boards & line develop- multi-task oriented & extensive com- ment. Extensive fabric research experi- 3-5 yrs experience. Benefits. munication with overseas. ence a must. Please e-mail resume to: Please fax resume 212-575-3691 Designer Please fax resume, attn. AR (212) 840-3078 [email protected] CALL ME FIRST! Accessories 1500-10,000SqFt Shwrm/Office/Design Must see! Call Allan Gallaway Assistant Designer DRESSMAKER PATTERNMAKER Bernstein R.E. 212-594-1414 Ext 251 In this position you will be responsible for Women’s dorm Looking for an associate to add to our Seamstress/Tailor for private clientele. New York based luxury high end women’s team in a major dress company. An Bridal & Eveningwear experience req’d. collection seeking highly experienced wear. To qualify, you must have a minimum of 5 years relat- enthusiastic team player with organiza- L.I. location. Must drive. 516-671-7020 and detail oriented patternmaker for For Space in Garment Center ed experience with strong presentation skills and a strong tional skills and flat sketch abilities first line/couture collection, with special print sensibility. Candidates should be able to work well in a required. Please fax: (212) 398-6961 FASHION FREELANCE & PERM JOBS!!! hand for "flou", silk, chiffon. Working Helmsley-Spear, Inc. knowledge of European high fashion is 212-880-0414 Taylor Hodson, Inc. collaborative team environment and have a clear understand- Immediate opportunities available for amust. Please fax resume with salary Assistant Designer requirements to: (212) 941-5751 ing of our customer and lifestyle. Major apparel co. seeks asst. designer Sales Account Execs w/ better dept. store for men’s & boy’s loungewear & box- exp. & strong retail math (60-100K), Showrooms & Lofts ers, with strength in graphics and Sourcing Coordinators with bi-lingual PATTERNMAKER We offer a competitive salary and comprehensive benefits Chinese (40-50K), Associate BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS package that includes a generous merchandise discount, bo- print pattern design. Duties include Well known Mfr. of Ladies’ Moderate Great ’New’ Office Space Avail all aspects of line development: Designer (50K). Also seeking Visual Sportswear seeks person exp’d. in full ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 nus opportunities, a casual work environment and growth po- prints, plaids, presentation boards, Merchandisers, Tech Designers, etc. at lined jackets. Medical & 401K available. tential. Please forward your resume, indicating position of in- spec sheets. Must be detail-oriented all levels. Please submit resumes to our Call Gus at: 212-869-3619 w/ excellent communication skills. Fashion Division: terest, to: Aeropostale, 112 West 34th Street, 22nd Floor, Exp. w/ MAC photoshop & illustrator. fax: (212) 924-1503 New York, NY 10120; Fax: (646) 485-5430. Or email: Great work environment. EOE. e-mail: [email protected] Prod Assistant-Entry Level [email protected] We are an equal opportu- Pls. email resume w/salary req. to: P.L. of Women’s Sportswear seeks a nity employer M/F [email protected] FASHION OPPORTUNITIES highly motivated & detail oriented Artists - Designers - Merchandisers - person to assist in Production Dept. BUYER Production - Sales - Technical - Etc. Must have strong follow up skill. Good Call Barbara Murphy (212) 643-8090 (agcy) knowledge of Excel is a Must. Seeking exp’d Buyers to participate in Please fax resume to 201-867-4042 fast fashion apparel research study. Exp. in better or moderate women’s / juniors FREELANCE apparel or accessories. Interview based PRODUCTION research. $50/hour. Please send resume: FOOTWEAR DESIGNER AEROPOSTALE E-mail: [email protected] Wanted for high end/quality designs. COORDINATOR or Fax: (212) 292-4950 Please call Richard @ (917) 750-6903 SEVENTH AVENUE WOMEN’S APPAREL COMPANY PATTERN/SAMPLES CAREERS IN APPAREL needs someone with 8+ yrs experience Reliable. High quality. Low cost. Fast In Production - Techn. Design + Design GRAPHIC ARTIST in overseas production. Must be strong work. Small/ Lrg production 212-629-4808 See Listings @ www.ApparelStaffing.com Art dept at NYC childrenswear co. in sweater and cut/sewn knits. Candidate Or Fax Resume to: (212) 302-1161 seeks indiv. to create innovative art must be highly motivated, computer from concept to final art for branded literate (AS400), detail oriented multi- and license lines. Proficient in MAC tasker in prod planning, lab dip appro- PATTERNS, SAMPLES, CUTTING ROOM Photoshop/Illustrator. Fax resume to: val, cutting tickets and fabric orders. PRODUCTIONS Mannequin pattern making, furniture Eli 212-967-9328. Email Good communication skills and be well slipcovers, tablecloths. Experienced. [email protected] organized, must follow up in all phases All lines,Any styles. Fine Fast Service. Long Island. Great Benefits. Call Sherry 212-719-0622. of production. Please send resume to: Fax resume 631-753-1279, Attn: Steve Box#M 1059 Sportswear or call 631-753-3600 c/o Fairchild Publications Sr. Women’s Merchandiser GRAPHIC DESIGNER 7 West 34th Street, 4th Fl PATTERNS, SAMPLES, Research and identify market trends. Establish merchandising Daryl K Young men’s jeanswear co. seeking a New York, NY 10001 PRODUCTION DESIGN ASSISTANT talented graphic artist to join our PRODUCTIONS plans, create line plan for specific product to be developed 2 yrs. exp. Organizing, scheduling team. Create cutting edge lifestyle Samples and patterns full servcie shop for the US market. Oversee forecasting and buying process. small domestic production, overseas graphics for our young men’s urban & to the trade. Fine fast work. skate brands. Excellent Adobe Illustra- Production Mgr Merchandise French collection for US market. communications. Studio management. 212-869-2699. Please fax resume to: (212) 260-7558 or tor & Photoshop skills required for Bridge suite house needs EXP person Must have: Email: [email protected] this position. Fax resume to: Design w/ability to follow prototype from fit to Minimum 5 years women’s sportswear merchandising Director 212-575-1109. end product’n know of MS Word & Ex- experience. Product development skills a must. Excellen DATA ENTRY/ CLERICAL cel is a must. Fax res. to: 212-869-5393 PTTNS/SMPLS/PROD Fast paced menswear co in High qlty, reasonable price. Any de- conceptual & visionary skills. Must be a strong communicator. Brooklyn.min. 3 yrs exp. Fax resumes GRAPHIC DESIGN INSTRUCTOR sign & fabric. Fast work. 212-714-2186 Computer proficient: Excel and Word. 718-858-4108 Manhattan Company is looking for Photoshop and Illustrator instructor. Excellent company benefits, European travel. Salary Must have experience. commensurate with experience. Please e-mail resume Data Entry PT/FT. Fax resume to 212-465-8826. Required. Must have EDI and garment Retail Management and salary history to: [email protected] industry experience. Major downtown shoe store with cult Attn: Vice President of Merchandising Fax Resume: 212-382-3623 HUMAN RESOURCE MGR following seeks pro-active individual with leadership qualities to run our Design Location: Manhattan and Five Towns flagship store. Must have experience Area - LIRR Station Stop. in staff management, retail buying and Accessory Designer Fast-paced leading branded men’s / Spec designer for and gift box- sales analysis. Must have sharp SALES ASSISTANT ladies accessory co. seeks hands-on computer and motivational skills. FASHION RESUMES es. Great fashion sense. 2-3 yrs exp. human resources mgr with experience TECHNICAL DESIGNER Watch exp a+. Able to work independ- Knowledge of POSIM a plus. Excellent SINCE 1970 Immediate entry-level position in recruiting designers, merchandisers, compensation package. for Private Label Sportswear ently. Knowledge of Illustrator & sales and warehouse personnel. Knowl- For Fashion and Retailing available to work with senior Photoshop A+. Friendly atmosphere. Fax resume to: 212-226-5126 account executive for large social Importer – Must have Thorough edge of employment law, compliance, Professional Resumes Inc. Medical benefits. Please fax resume employee benefits and HR related occasion dress manufacturer. Knowledge of Import Specs, 212-947-7601 Lifetime Updating/ issues. Duties include: maintaining HR RETAIL PLANNER (2) $50-90k+ Must be detailed oriented, ability records and employee orientation. Excel- Telephone Interviews Patternmaking,Garment Construc- (1) Accessory Co’s Baby Div. DESIGNER lent communication skills and high Must have Wal-Mart, retail link exp. to learn quickly, and have good tion, and Grading + Excellent Experience working Rush Service Available communication skills. Excellent CHILDRENS energy level req’d. (2) Men’s, Boy’s & Jr. "City wear" 60 East 42nd Street Suite 839 Communication Skills & Attention NYC childrenswear co. seeks energetic for an accessory or apparel co. preferred. apparel co. Dept. store, specialty store. computer skills necessary. Salary commensurate with experience. New York, NY 10165 to Detail - Use MS Word/Excel indiv. for newborn through toddler li- Must have strong analytical skills cense and private label lines. 3-5 yrs. This is a one person department. Great along with retail and wholesale experi- 212-697-1282 / 800-221-4425 Please fax resume in confidence files. Fax Resume to Pete at: exp. Illustrator a must. Fax resume: opportunity! ence pref. knowledge of EXCEL. www.resumesforfashion.com to Jerry @ 212-869-3639. 212-944-2452 Eli 212-967-9328. Email Fax resume to 718-471-3707 or email E-mail resume: [email protected] [email protected] resume to: [email protected] (Fax) 212-725-7116 (Tel) 212-481-1941 WWD, THURSDAY, MAY 20, 2004 19

Retail Planner/Seller SALES EXECUTIVE Better sportswear company seeks dynamic ZENA JEANS and motivated Private Label AE w/min 5 Seeks retail planner w/ 2-3 years exp. yrs exp. Able to develop existing biz Must be detail-oriented with strong and bring in new accounts. Must be analytical skills, proficient in Word computer savvy. and Excel, along w/ understanding of Fax resume/sal req. to (212) 768-7651 dept store financials / 6 month...flows. CASUAL MISSY CONTEMPORARY E-mail: [email protected] SALES ASSOCIATE/MANAGER SALES EXECUTIVE •"Outstanding…you have hit every key trend." Soundgirl, a JUNIOR denim based Estab Ladies R-T-W Co looking for -NY Buying Office SALES ASSISTANT collection w/ a CONTEMPORARY exp’d, agressive Sales Executive. Must T-shirt company for high profile EDGE and a unique music-lifestyle have proven track record. Ref. a must. •"Congratulations…colors, prints and stretch fabrications are accounts seeking full time sales assis- Fax resume to 212-302-5259. tant. Responsible for sales follow up, branding strategy, is seeking right on the mark." tracking orders, and maintaining salespeople with 5 or more years SALES EXECUTIVE -Catalog Buyer paper work. Computer experience a Leading sportswear co. seeks candidates must. Excellent opportunity in a busy experience in trendy Specialty Chain, Better Department or w/min 3 year exp. Fax resumes to: •"Perfect for our customer…missy fit with young casual looks and fast paced environment. 212.695.9483 or email: [email protected] Fax resume to (973) 268-2667 Boutiques. Excellent benefits and and great colors." -Florida Retailer Samplemaker salary. Please send resumes to: SALES - Jeans For Couture Evening Co. Needs very [email protected] or Seeking experienced sales person to •"A reps dream…experienced honest people, tight focused experienced worker. Excellent salary. fax 212-730-1128 sell junior bottoms. Established collection, good commission rate and sample policy." Call 212-944-7144 relationships with major discounters, specialty chains and department -East Coast Road Warrior stores a must. Fax resume to: Sewing Supervisor AMY JO GLADSTONE 212-869-5047 or email Spring ’05 August Release Men’s Clothing; Min. 5 years exp. with Amy Jo Gladstone lifestyle brand, a [email protected] Key Territories Available all types of sewing machines. Brooklyn leader in the high-end and foot- June Market Interviews location. Salary + benefits. References wear market is seeking to fill the fol- req’d. Fax resume: 718-853-8805 EOE lowing positions. Footwear back- Email [email protected] ground not essential. Bronx Location Fax (212) 944-1482 Technical CAD convenient to subway, public trans & parking. Designer SALES MANAGER Fast paced branded & private label SALESPERSON Emerging Luxury Outerwear brand seeks ym’s & boys jeanswear co seeking ex- Leader to grow moderate and private experienced, energetic Sales Professional Junior Line - NY perienced tech CAD designer. Create label business which has explosive po- to manage its wholesale sales from NYC Established Junior Co in L.A. seeks production pkgs for overeseas office tential. Our product can cross merchan- showroom. Established relationships with experienced Sales Rep in N.Y. to sell to include technical flat sketches, color dise into a multitude of retail opportu- stores, knowledge of fur, and the ability successful junior line. Must have estab- standards, trim pkgs & construction nities from spa’s to dept.stores to life- to travel are required. Candidates must lished relationships with chain / dept / details. Adobe illustrator/photoshop style catalogues. Great growth poten- possess strong presentational, analytical, mass market stores. Fax resume to skills a must for this position. tial! 6-8 yrs exp. and communication skills. Please Fax Steve @ 1-818-242-8025. Fax resume to: 646-674-1246 resume/salary history to: 516-338-0215 SALES ASSISTANT Extremely organized, meticulous per- Sales Representative Technical Designer son that can multi-task and assist with Sales Manager A global garment buying agency cover- customer service, sales, regional rep’s, Women’s Uniforms Sales Team Devel- ing countries such as Kenya, Tanzania, Calvin Klein Outerwear seeks energetic , , Dubai, , and detail oriented technical designer. retail web site, trade shows, and data oper wanted for midsize Uniform Mfr SENIOR EXECUTIVE entry. 3-5 years experience. located near Miami, Florida. Experience Sri Lanca, , Tanbolia, and . Well-connected in USA Majors & Accessory Understanding of garment construc- Currently work with companies such tion and spec requirements a must. desired in ladies’ sportswear/. Industry. Built #1, most recognized, Email resume to: E-mail resume to: as Wal-Mart, Levis, Disney and others premier /small leather goods Tracking of samples and maintaining (in both FOB offshore and LDP terms). clear records of all development. CAD [email protected] or [email protected] brand in USA & . Increased volume Fax to 718-620-3600 Weare seeking Sales Rep with mini- from zero to $ half billion. References: experience a plus. Please fax resume mum 10+ years experience in B2B sales to Jonathan @ 212-944-5333. CEO’s, Pres., VP/GMM’s of Majors. in the garment field and have knowl- NO RTW/Dresses. Call: (516) 510-7331 Director of Sales edge of overseas purchase. Please fax Technical Designer Rapidly expanding established NY your resume to Diana at: 909-598-0728 Ladies mfr. seeks exp’d tech w/ strong high-end Eveningwear Company has knowledge of garment construction an immediate opening for a hands-on Sales Representative "By the Sea" is seeking experienced, fit, grading from development thru Director of Sales to strengthen our WAREHOUSE MANAGER/OPERATIONS production. Must be hardworking, sales team. commission based Road Reps for well- Sales Consultant known moderate to better designer Tired of needless chargebacks & a dis- detail oriented & focused on getting organized warehouse? I am an organ- the job done! Must have min of 5-10 Weare seeking an individual w/ ability Sales Consultant for Madison Avenue swimwear. Available Territories: to bring in new accounts to impact the Bridal Couture Boutique. Must have California, Florida, Texas ized, energetic, detail oriented, team yrs exp. w/ excell. Pls fax resume to : player w/ over 20 yrs in whse manage- (212) 358-9287 sales growth of our company. Individual sales experience. Fax resume to Email: [email protected] will work closely with Design and Pro- (212) 583-1715 Fax: 212-695-2341 ment. Call Steven @ 516-791-6636. duction department. Must have exp. Technical with merchandising, sales projection, budgeting, customer service, calendars Design/Production and imports. Candidate must have Major Jr Denim Import/Mfg seeks an extensive experience working with experienced individual to be responsi- department and specialty stores with ble for initial to production spec pack- knowledge of replenishment business ages for development, analyze fit sam- as well as private labels. Excellent com- ples and communicate with overseas munication, analytical, follow-up and offices/follow up. Must be detailed & computer skills required. Requires work closely with design team - minimum 5 years experience as Sales computer literate. Executive. Fax resume & salary requirements Please fax resume and salary require- attn: RS 212-398-2287 ments to (212) 575-1644 Dynamic Sales Pro Established Junior Sweater Co. seeks energetic Salesperson w/ existing contacts in chain, specialty & discount mass markets. If you’re looking for an exciting opportunity, we want to talk to you. $$$ potential excellent for the right person. Fax: 516-374-1586 James Jeans Sales and Asst Sales positions available SALES for N.Y. showroom. Candidates should be highly motivated and extremely MANAGER organized. Specialty store knowledge a plus. Please e-mail resume to: A leading H.K. based under- [email protected] wear and children’s wear co. is seeking a motivated Sales Manager will be JSong International Inc. responsible to develop Embroidered sportswear & dresses co. and maintain strong sales seeks experienced sales executives. Good relationship with specialty chains, relationships with chain boutiques & catalogues. Fax resume: store accounts including 212-736-1686 or e-mail [email protected] and K-mart. Must have extensive RAMPAGE apparel contacts and sales Seeking Account Executive to manage experience. Involvement trendy private label division. Minimum with merchandising and 5years experience required. Established relationships with major department product development. and specialty stores a must. Exhibit Excellent salary & benefits. superior leadership and communica- Please e-mail resume to: tion skills. Competitive package. Fax resume with salary requirements to: [email protected] 212-244-5897 / Attn: VP

SALES ASSOCIATE SALES REP. Major textile company seeking young, A very well established denim co. energetic, and experienced person for textile sales in junior, missy, and seeking a highly motivated sales special occasions market. team in N.Y., L.A. and for Please call 212 398-0011 X231 our high end line. Must have experience with denim sales to Sales/Brand Manager/100k++ specialty stores. Junior/Urban/City Wear [email protected] This very "hot" Jr. branded license needs an exp brand mgr to guide it within this very successful & growing Urban/City wear multi brand co. Req: must have experience in this JR. mkt Account Executive (hanging w/Rocawear, Ecko Red, Pepe Junior Activewear Company seeks Jeans etc.), strong sales, brand manage- salesperson to manage department ment /merchandising abilities. stores; Kohl’s and Target accounts. Fax E-mail resume: [email protected] resume to (212) 354-1740, attn Robert. (Fax) 212-725-7116 (Tel) 212-481-1941 Cotton Incorporated, 2002. © porated. Registered Service Mark/Trademark of Cotton Incor Registered Service Mark/Trademark ® TERS.

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