Praznična Miza V Venezueli –
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Venezuela Praznična miza v Venezueli – hallacaBesedilo in fotografije: Gal Kušar Pestrost dežele, njena zgodovina in bogastvo tradicije se zrcalijo v šegah in običajih, jeziku, ljudski glasbi, pesmih in plesih ter seveda v kulinariki. Ta pride do izraza v času praznovanj, ko na mizo radi postavimo nekaj posebnega, dobrega in okusnega. Venezuela v tem ni nobena izjema. a praznični božično-novoletni mizi v večjih količinah, tako da v decembrskih v Venezueli ne smejo manjkati štiri prazničnih dneh ne izgubljajo časa s kuha- Njedi. To so hallaca, pan de jamón, njem, ampak raje uživajo v obiskih, druženju ensalada de gallina in pernil de cochino. in na plažah. Hallaca (izg. ajaka) so v bananine liste zaviti Hallaca je tradicionalna božična venezuel- kuhani žepki iz koruznega testa, nadevani z ska jed, priljubljena tudi v sosednjih Kolum- različnimi vrstami mesa in zelenjave. Pan de biji in Ekvadorju, na karibskih otokih Aruba, jamón je pečen zavitek s šunko, slanino, oli- Bonaire in Curazao ter tudi na bolj oddalje- vami in rozinami, ki zelo spominja na našo nih Kanarskih otokih in v Španiji. Izvira iz ko- potico (ocvirkovko). Ensalada de gallina je lonialnih časov, ko so indígeni (prvotni prebi- solata iz kurjega ali piščančjega mesa, zelo valci Amerike) skuhali obaro iz divjih živali, podobna ruski solati. Pernil de cochino pa je obrano meso obdali s koruznim testom in prešpikano, marinirano in pečeno svinjsko nato vse skupaj zavito v bananinih listih sku- stegno. K prazničnim jedem postrežejo vino, hali. Ta jed se je imenovala hayaco iritari, od whisky, domač rum in vodo. Pojedino zaklju- koder naj bi po eni od teorij izviralo sedanje čijo s sladicami: dulce de lechoza (kandirana ime hallaca. Po drugi razlagi izvira iz jezika papaja), cabello de ángel con piña (sladkorni guaraní, iz besed ayúa in ayuar, ki pomenita laski na ananasu) in torto negro (čokoladna mešati ali zaviti. Po tretji razlagi pa je izvor v torta s sadjem). V prazničnem času radi sr- enem od jezikov plemen z zahoda dežele in knejo ponche crema (sladki, jajčno-mlečni pomeni zavijati ali zapakirati. Izvor hallace je kremasti liker z rumom). Za prigrizek ocvre- nedvomno v predkolumbovski dobi, prihod jo tequeños, majhne zavitke z različnimi me- Špancev je le dopolnil listo sestavin in začimb. snimi in zelenjavnimi nadevi. Jedi pripravijo Recept za hallaco je nespremenjen od sredine 82 | Adria Airways In-Flight Magazine Venezuela | 83 Venezuela tain leaves and cook it. This dish was known as hayaco iritari, which some believe is the Festive food in Venezuela – origin of the current name hallaca. Another explanation is that the name derives from the Guarani language, from the words ayúa and ayuar, meaning to mix or wrap. A third expla- nation is that the name has its origin in one of the languages of the tribes in the west of the HallacaText and photography: Gal Kušar country and means to wrap or pack. The hal- laca certainly derives from the pre-Columbian period, and the arrival of the Spanish merely added more ingredients and seasonings to the list. The recipe for hallaca has remained un- changed since the middle of the eighteenth century. Interestingly, the ingredients of hal- laca are a good illustration of the racial mix of today’s Venezuela. The plantain leaves repre- sent the African peoples, the cornmeal dough represents the indigenous peoples, and the filling of chicken, pork (or beef), olives and 18. stoletja. Zanimivo je, da sestavine halla- raisins represents the Europeans. Viewed even ce dobro ponazarjajo rasno mešanico dana- more broadly, the hallaca connects Antiquity šnje Venezuele. Bananini listi predstavljajo (olives), the Arab world (capers and almonds), afriško raso, koruzno testo indígene, nadev Spain (meat) and the indigenous cultures s piščancem, svinjino, (govedino), olivami in of America (cornmeal) and Africa (plantain rozinami pa predstavlja Evropejce. Širše gle- The diversity of a country, its Pernil de cochino is a larded, marinated and leaves). A good hallaca should harmoniously dano pa hallaca povezuje antiko (oljke), arab- history and the richness of its baked ham. These festive dishes are accompa- combine five flavours: spicy, sweet, salty and ski svet (kapre in mandeljni), Španijo (meso), nied by wine, whisky, rum or water. The meal sour, and the flavour of the meat (umami). traditions are reflected in its ways indígene kulture Amerike (koruza) in Afrike ends with desserts: dulce de lechoza (candied The difficult economic situation in Ven- (bananini listi). V dobri hallaci se mora har- and customs, language, folk music, papaya), cabello de ángel con piña (threads of ezuela forces people to start stocking up on monično združiti pet okusov: pekoč, sladek, songs and dances … and of course jam made from angel’s hair pumpkin served all the ingredients needed to prepare festive slan, kisel in okus po mesu (umami). in its cuisine. This last element with pineapple) and torta negra (chocolate dishes in as early as November, as soon as Vse potrebno za pripravo prazničnih jedi takes centre stage during festivities, cake with fruit). The popular drink during this they appear on the shelves of shops. Since nakupujejo zaradi slabe ekonomske situacije when people like to serve traditional season is ponche crema (eggnog with rum). Te- “la mejor hallaca es la que hace mi mamá” v Venezueli na zalogo že od novembra, brž seasonal specialities. Venezuela is no queños, fried dough parcels with various meat (my mothers hallaca is the best), as the say- ko se kakšna pojavi na policah trgovin. Ker and vegetable fillings, are served as snacks. ing goes, hallacas are traditionally prepared exception to this rule. velja rek: »La mejor hallaca es la que hace Dishes are prepared in large quantities so as at home, when in mid-December the various mi mamá (najboljša je mamina hallaca)«, not to waste time cooking during the rest of members of the family gather at their parents’ tradicionalno pripravljajo hallace doma, ko o Christmas or New Year’s celebra- the holidays themselves, when people prefer house. Making hallacas is a traditional ritual se družinski člani sredi decembra zberejo v tion in Venezuela would be complete to visit friends and family, socialise or go to in every family, with special family variants hiši staršev. Priprava hallac je v vsaki družini Nwithout four special dishes. These the beach. and traditions that bring them together in the tradicionalen obred z družinskimi posebnost- are hallaca, pan de jamón, ensalada de gal- Hallaca is a traditional Christmas dish in run-up to Christmas. The process of prepar- mi, ki poveže družine v predbožičnem času. lina and pernil de cochino. Hallaca (also spelt Venezuela that is also popular in neighbouring ing hallacas, which lasts several days, can be Postopek priprave, ki traja več dni, lahko “hayaca”) is a dish made of cornmeal dough Colombia and Ecuador, on the Caribbean is- summed up in a single long sentence: Take a strnemo v en stavek, dolg stavek: Vzamemo filled with various types of meat and vegeta- lands of Aruba, Bonaire and Curaçao, and also lump of cornmeal dough, place it on a plan- hlebček koruznega testa, ga položimo na ba- bles and wrapped in plantain leaves. Pan de in the more remote Canary Islands and other tain leaf, roll it out, stuff it with the filling and nanin list, razvaljamo, napolnimo z nadevom jamón is a kind of bread filled with ham, ba- parts of Spain. It derives from colonial times, cover it with dough, roll it up in the leaf, tie it in pokrijemo s testom, zavijemo v list, trdno con, olives and raisins, very reminiscent of the when the indígenas (the aboriginal inhabitants tightly with string to form a small parcel and povežemo z vrvico v paketek in ga skuhamo v potica eaten in Slovenia (at least the version of America) would make a stew from the meat cook it in boiling salted water; once cooked kropu; skuhano hallaco položimo na krožnik, made with crackling). Ensalada de gallina is of wild animals, surround the meat with corn- place it on a plate, cut the string and unroll odrežemo vrvico in odvijemo bananin list. • a chicken salad very similar to Russian salad. meal dough, wrap the whole thing in plan- the plantain leaf. • 84 | Adria Airways In-Flight Magazine Venezuela | 85 Venezuela (prirejenRecept po receptu Donza Armanda pripravo Scannoneja) hallac (adaptedHallaca from the recipe recipe of Don Armando Scannone) Sestavine (za 60 hallac) Postopek: Ingredients (for 60 hallacas) Method: Obara 1. Priprava obare: v velik lonec (12 l) damo olje, čebulo, por, Filling 1. To make the stew: Put the oil, onion, leek, spring onion, garlic, 200 g koruzne moke (harina de maíz precocida) mlado čebulo, česen, kapre, papriko, paradižnik, feferone, 30 200 g cornmeal (harina de maíz precocida) capers, peppers, tomatoes, chillies, 30 drops of Tabasco, a jar of 3 kg svinjskega stegna brez maščobe, narezanega na kocke (1–2 cm) kapljic Tabaska, kozarec vložene zelenjave, 2 skodelici vina, 3 kg ham with the fat removed, cut into cubes (1–2 cm) pickled vegetables, 2 cups of wine, a cup of vinegar, ⅔ of a cup 2 kokoši, skupaj približno 4 kg; skuhana kokošja jušna osnova; skodelico kisa, ⅔ skodelice worchesterske omake, 1½ žličke 2 hens together weighing about 4 kg; hen broth; of Worcestershire sauce, 1½ tsp ground paprika, 1 tsp ground meso oberemo in narežemo na koščke mlete paprike, 1 žličko mletega črnega popra, 5 žličk soli in ¾ remove the meat from the bone and cut into cubes black pepper, 5 tsp salt and ¾ of a cup of mustard into a large 1 skodelica olja 1 cup oil skodelice gorčice. Zavremo in pustimo vreti 10 minut. Dodamo pan (holding 12 litres). Bring to the boil and leave to simmer 1½ kg drobno zrezane čebule 1½ kg diced onion sladkor in dobro premešamo.