A B C ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 257 travel within 165 Muri 58 Tutuila 147-58, 148 Ofu Beach 12, 158 ’Anahulu Cave 180 Oholei Beach 179 Anatakitaki Cave 10, 76, 10 O’otu Beach 70 animal welfare 60 Palagi Beach 151 animals 92, see also individual Sa’ilele 151 species Saleapaga 119 A’opo Conservation Area 131 Salelologa 125 Apia 103-15, 108-9, 116 ’Upolu 120 Apolima 124 Vaiala Beach 103 archaeological sites beer 77 American Samoa 150, 159, 160 bicycle travel, see cycling A Samoa 123, 131, 132 birds 76, 92, 182 accommodation 26-30, see also Tonga 171, 179, 180, 186 books 91 individual locations architecture 137, 231 megapodes 200, 204 activities 31-5, see also individual area codes swiftlets 76, 120, 129, 197-8 activities American Samoa 146 birdwatching 62, 77 Aganoa Beach 133 Rarotonga & the Cook Islands 45 Bligh, Captain William 189 air travel 238-41 Samoa 101 blogs 214 airlines 238-9 Tonga 169 blowholes 134 tickets 239 ’Arorangi 58 blue worms 18, 121 Aitutaki 69-75, 70, 17 arts 230-2, see also books, dance, boat travel 240-1, 241, 242, see also Alega Beach 152 music cruises, yachting Aleipata 117 American Samoa 162 books 214 Alofaaga Blowholes 134 Rarotonga & the Cook Islands 91 birds 91 American Samoa 145-65, 147 Samoa 137-8 Rarotonga & the Cook Islands 91 2009 earthquake & tsunami 161 Tonga 203 Samoa 137 accommodation 145, 153-5, 159, Arutanga 69-70 Bougainville, Louis-Antoine de 160, 163 ’Atiu 10, 76-80, 78, 10 161, 217 activities 151-3 ATMs Bounty, the 189, 217 budget 146 American Samoa 146 budget 14, see also individual locations climate 145 Rarotonga & the Cook Islands 45 budget accommodation 29 culture 162 Samoa 101 bus travel 242 drinking 156 Tonga 169 business hours economy 161 Aufaga 119 American Samoa 163 environment 162-3 Aunu’u 152 Rarotonga & the Cook Islands 93 entertainment 156 Avaio Beach 152 Samoa 115, 140 festivals & events 163 Avarua 10, 51-7, 54-5, 2-3, 10 Tonga 205 food 146, 155-6, 163 Avarua Landing 85-6 history 161-2 aviation buffs 208 internet access 163-4 C itineraries 23, 146, 23 camping 30 B Manu’a Islands 158-60 canned meats 205 Bahá’í House of Worship 116 medical services 157 cannibalism 225 Baker, Reverend Shirley 201 money 146, 164 canoes 231 beaches 16 planning 146 Cape Mulinu’u 11, 11 Aganoa Beach 133 population 146, 162 Cape Taputapu 151 Alega Beach 152 shopping 156 car travel 15, 242 Aleipata 117 sights 147-51, 158-9 American Samoa 165 ’Ano 197 telephone services 146, 164 Rarotonga & the Cook Islands 50-1 ʼAtiu 76 time zones 164 Samoa 144 Avaio Beach 152 tours 153 Tonga 208 ’Eua’iki 198 travel seasons 145 cathedrals, see churches & cathedrals Foe’ata 198 travel to/from 146, 164-5 caves Ha’atafu Beach Reserve 180 ’Anahulu Cave 180 Hinakauea 197 ’Atiu 76 Houmale’eia Beach 185 000 Map pages Dwarf’s Cave 130 Lalomanu Beach 117 000 Photo pages Falealupo Peninsula 132 Ma’uke 80, 81 258 caves continued budget 45 dangers, see safety Mangaia 85 climate 44 Davis, Sir Tom 91 Mariner’s Cave 198 culture 90, 223 day cruises 31-2 Ma’uke 80 drinking 54-5, 67, 75, 82 DC3 aeroplanes 208 Mitiaro 83 electricity 94 dengue fever 243 Pe’ape’a Cave 120, 129 environment 91 diarrhoea 244 Piula Cave Pool 118 family life 225-6 Disappearing Island 188 caving 34, 92-3 festivals & events 93 Divided Church 82 INDEX cell phones 15 food 44, 45, 53-4, 64-7, 74-5, 79-80, diving 16, 32-3, 36, see also snorkelling cemeteries 82, 87, 93 Rarotonga & the Cook Islands Shirley Baker Monument & history 89-90 59-60, 70-1, 92 C-E European Cemetery 185 internet access 94 Samoa 107, 129, 139 children, travel with 36-7 internet resources 94 Tonga 174, 181, 185, 189, 191, 199 Rarotonga & the Cook Islands 61, 93 itineraries 22, 25, 45, 47, 22, 25 drinking, see individual locations Samoa 140 language 45 drinking water 244 Tonga 205 Mangaia 85-8, 86 drinks 234-6, see also beer Christian, Fletcher 189 Ma’uke 80-2, 81 driving, see car travel Christianity 136, 202-3 media & television 94 driving licences churches & cathedrals medical services 69, 75, 82 American Samoa 165 Bahá’í House of Worship 116 Mitiaro 82-5, 84 Rarotonga & the Cook Islands 50 Centenary Chapel 173 money 45, 94-5 Samoa 144 Cook Islands Christian Church Northern islands 88-9 Tonga 172, 208 (Arutanga) 69 Palmerston 75-6 Dwarf’s Cave 130 Cook Islands Christian Church planning 45 (Avarua) 52 population 90 Cook Islands Christian Church Rarotonga 47-69, 48-9 E earthquakes 136 (Matavera) 59 religion 224 economy 221-2 Cook Islands Christian Church safe travel 93 (Mitiaro) 83 shopping 55-7, 68, 80, 87 embassies & consulates Cook Islands Christian Churches sights 51-2, 57-9, 69-70, 80-1, 83, American Samoa 163 (Mangaia) 85 85, 87 Rarotonga & the Cook Islands 93 Divided Church 82 telephone services 45, 95 Samoa 140-1 Holy Family Cathedral 150 tourist information 95 Tonga 205-6 lava-ruined churches 128 tours 53, 61-2, 71-2, 77, 81-2, 87, 97 emergencies LMS Church 128 travel seasons 44 American Samoa 146 Mormon Temple 104 travel to/from 45, 95-6 Rarotonga & the Cook Islands 45 Mulivai Catholic Cathedral 104 travel within 96-7 Samoa 101 St Joseph’s Cathedral 191 weights & measures 94 Tonga 169 CICCs, see churches & cathedrals Cook Islands Christian Churches, see environmental issues 213-14 climate 14, 19-21, 34, see also churches & cathedrals Esther Honey Foundation 60 individual locations costs 14 etiquette 235 climate change 91-2 accommodation 92, 139, 163, 205 ’Eua 181-3 coffee plantations 76-7 food 93, 141, 163, 206 ’Eua’iki 198 colonisation 219-20 crafts 231-2 ’Euakafa 198 concrete parks 179 cricket 123 European exploration 216-17 consulates, see embassies & Cross-Island Track 6, 59, 7 European explorers consulates cruises 31-2 Bougainville, Louis-Antoine de Cook, Captain James 85, 89, 179, 202, cultural shows 18 161, 217 217, 222 culture 223-6, see also individual Cook, Captain James 85, 89, 179, Cook Islands, the 44-97, 46 locations 202, 217, 222 accommodation 44, 53, 62-4, 72-4, currency 15, see also exchange rates Galaup, Jean-François de 161 78-9, 81-2, 83, 92, cycling 34-5, 241-2 Krusenstern, Admiral Adam Johann activities 52-3, 59-61, 70-1, 76-7, 92 cyclones 34 von 89 Aitutaki 69-75, 70 le Maire, Jacob 201 ’Atiu 76-80, 78 Mendaña y Neyra, Don Alvaro D de 89 dance 230 Mourelle, Don Francisco Antonio Rarotonga & the Cook Islands 91 201 000 Map pages Samoa 114 Quirós, Pedro Fernández de 89 000 Photo pages Tonga 204 Roggeveen, Jacob 134, 161 259 Schouten, Willem 201, 217 Ha’apai Group 8, 183-9, 183 King Taufa’ahau Tupou IV 202 Tasman, Abel 180, 201, 217 health 243-4 King Tupou VI 201 events, see festivals & events Heilala Festival 20 kite surfing 33, 61, 92 exchange rates Henry, Albert 221 Krusenstern, Admiral Adam Johann American Samoa 146 hepatitis A 244 von 89 Rarotonga & the Cook Islands 45 Highland Paradise Cultural Centre 58 Samoa 101 Hihifo 199 L Tonga 169 hiking 17, 35 lakes INDEX American Samoa 151-2, 159 Aunu’u 152 F Rarotonga & the Cook Islands 7, Lake Lanoto’o 116 60, 62 Lake Te Roto 76

fa’afafine 136-7, see also fakaleiti E-M Samoa 107, 131, 139-40 Fafá Island 181 Mitiaro 83 Tonga 182 Fafa O Sauai’i 11, 131 Vai Lahi 200 historic sites 17 Fagamalo 130 Lalomalava 125-6 history 215-22 Fagatele Bay National Marine Lalomanu 118 Sanctuary 8, 152 colonialism 219-20 Lalomanu Beach 117, 6-7 fakaleiti 203, see also fa’afafine European contact 216-17 languages 15, 245-51 fale 139 independence 220-1 Rarotongan 245-6 Falealupo Rainforest Preserve 131 missionaries 217-19 Samoan 246-8 family life 225-6 Polynesian settlement 215-16 Tongan 248-9 ferry tragedy (Tonga) 209 postcolonial era 221-2 Lano 126-7 festivals & events 19-21, see also hitching 242 Lapita 134, 201, 216 individual locations holidays lava fields 128 fiafia 137 Rarotonga & the Cook Islands 95 lava tubes 131 films 213 Tonga 206 le Maire, Jacob 201 fishing 33 hongi 226 legends, see myths & legends Rarotonga & the Cook Islands 52, hostels 30 Leone 150 59, 71, 87 Hufangalupe Archway 180 leptospirosis 243-4 Samoa 107, 139 Hunga 198 lesbian travellers 206 Tonga 191, 198 literature, see books fishing pigs 179 I flying foxes 92, 163, 180 ie toga 138 M Foa 187 independence 220-2 Mafana 198 Foe’ata 198 insurance Maire, Jacob Le 217 Foelifuka 198 car 242 Mala 197 Fofoa 198 health 243 Manase 130 Fonuafo’ou 188 International Date Line 240 Mangaia 85-8, 86 food 233-6, see also individual internet resources 15, 164, 213 Manihiki 88 locations island formation 35 Manono 123-4 foreign aid 212-13 island nights 11, 68 Manu’a Islands 158-60 Friendly Islands 202 itineraries 22-5, 22, 23, 24, 25, see Maori 89 Frisbie, Robert Dean 88, 89, 91 also individual locations maps Ivirua 85 American Samoa 164 G Samoa 141 Galaup, Jean-François de 161 K marae 89 galleries, see museums & galleries Kalau 198 Arai-Te-Tonga Marae 59 gardens, see parks & gardens Kao 189 Ma’uke 81 gay travellers 206 Kapa 197-8 Marae Orongo 69, 77 geography 35 karting 191 Marae Puarakura 81 golf courses Marae Rangimanuka 81 Kauraka Kauraka 91 American Samoa 153 Marae Takero 83 kava 136, 205, 234 Rarotonga & the Cook Islands 61 Marae Te Apiripiri 77 kayaking 8, 33-4 Samoa 107 Marae Vairakai 77 American Samoa 153 Grey, Aggie 111 marine reserves, see also national Rarotonga & the Cook Islands 61 parks & reserves, wildlife Samoa 107, 140 sanctuaries H Tonga 175, 185, 192 Fagatele Bay National Marine Ha’amonga ‘a Maui Trilithon 11 King George Tupou I 201 Sanctuary 152 Ha’ano 187 King George Tupou V 200, 201, 202 Palolo Deep Marine Reserve 105 260 Mariner, William 184, 202 Falemataaga – The Museum of Palagi Beach 151 Mariner’s Cafe 186 Samoa 103-4 Palmerston 75-6 Mariner’s Cave 198 Floating Ark Gallery 197 Palolo Deep Marine Reserve 105 markets 18, see also shopping Jean P Hayden Museum 149 palolo worms 121 Fagatogo Market 149 Madd Gallery 104 Pangaimotu Island 181 Flea Market (Apia) 104 National Museum (Cook Islands) 52 Papase’ea Sliding Rocks 116 Maketi Fou 103 Robert Louis Stevenson Museum Papeiha 89 Pangai Market 187 115-16 parks & gardens INDEX music 230-1 Punanga Nui Market 10, 53, 55, 10 ’Ene’io Botanical Garden 196-7 Samoa 137 Salelologa 125 Faga’alu Park 153 Tonga 204 Talamahu Market 174 Pe’ape’a Cave 120, 129 M-S myths & legends 227-9 Masefau 151 Penrhyn 88-9 Massacre Bay 152 Piula Cave Pool 118 Mauga 128 N planning, see also individual Maui the Hero 228-9 Namu’a 118 locations Ma’uke 80-2, 81 National Park of American Samoa accommodation 26-30 medical services 243 151-2, 158, 160 budgeting 14-15 American Samoa 157 national parks & reserves, see also calendar of events 19-21 marine reserves Rarotonga & the Cook Islands children, travel with 36-7 69, 75, 82 A’opo Conservation Area 131 internet resources 15, 164, 213 Samoa 128 Fagatele Bay National Marine itineraries 22-5, 22, 23, 24, 25 Sanctuary 152 Tonga 171, 187, 196 outdoor activities 31-5 Falealupo Rainforest Preserve 131 megapodes 200, 204 package tours 29-30 Mt Talau National Park 191 Mendaña y Neyra, Don Alvaro de 89 regions 38-9 Mt Vaea Scenic Reserve 116 meningitis 243 travel seasons 14, 19-21 National Park of American Samoa Michener, James 111 Polynesian settlement 215-16 151-2, 158, 160 Minerva Reef 181 population 213 O Le Pupu-Pu’e National Park 120 Miss Galaxy Pageant 20, 203 pre-Christian religion 227-9 Tafua Peninsula Rainforest missionaries 134, 201, 217-19 Preserve 133 public holidays, see holidays Mitiaro 82-4, 84 Takitumu Conservation Area 62 Pukapuka 89 mobile phones 15 Togitogiga Recreation Reserve 120 Pulemelei Mound 13, 132, 13 money 14, 15, see also costs, Uafato Conservation Area 117 Punanga Nui Market 10, 53, 55, 10 exchange rates, individual Neale, Tom 88, 89, 91 locations Neiafu 190-6, 194 monuments Q ngatu 231 Port au Prince Massacre Queen Salote 201-2 Monument 185-6 Niuafo’ou 199-200 Quirós, Pedro Fernández de 89 Shirley Baker Monument 185 Niua Group 198-200 Niuatoputapu 199 Moso’s Footprint 132 R Nuapapu 198 Moso’oi Festival 21 Rainmaker Mountain (Mt Pioa) 151 motorcycle travel 52, 242 Nuku’alofa 13, 172-9, 174-5, 13 Rakahanga 88 Mounu 198 Nukunamo 187 Rangimotia 87 Mourelle, Don Francisco Antonio 201 Rarotonga 47-69, 48-9, see also Cook Mt Matavanu Crater 128 O Islands, the Mt Pioa (Rainmaker Mountain) 151 O Le Pupu-Pu’e National Park 120 accommodation 53, 62-4 Mt Silisili 131 Ofu 158-9, 159 drinking 54-5, 67-8 Mt Talau National Park 191 ’Ofu (Tonga) 198 entertainment 54-5, 68 Mt Tumutumu 159 Ofu Beach 12, 158, 12 food 53-4, 64-7 Mt Vaea Scenic Reserve 116 Oholei Beach & Hina Cave Feast & history 47 Muri 58 Show 179 shopping 55-6, 68 museums & galleries Olosega 158-9, 159 travel to/from 47 Cook Islands Library & Museum Oneroa 85 travel within 47-8 Society 52 opening hours, see business hours Rarotongan language 245-6 Cook Islands Whale & Wildlife ’Ovalau 198 recipes 233 Centre 57-8 religion 213, 224-5 remote islands 16 P resorts 27-8 000 Map pages package tours 29-30 Robert Louis Stevenson 218, 218 000 Photo pages Pago Pago 147-9, 153-4, 154 261 Robert Louis Stevenson Museum Savai’i’ 124-34, 126-7 Samoa 142 116-17 Schouten, Willem 201, 217 Tonga 207 Roggeveen, Jacob 134, 161 sea kayaking 33-4, see also kayaking Tin Can Island 200 shopping, see markets, individual Tofua 189 S locations Togitogiga Recreation Reserve 120 safety siapo 138, 231 tombs Cook Islands 93 snorkelling 16, 34, see also diving Grave of 99 Stones 123 diving 32 American Samoa 152 Grave of Afutiti 123 INDEX dogs 206 Rarotonga & the Cook Islands Hulu’ipaongo Tomb 186 58, 59-60 ferries 209 Olovehi Tomb 186 Samoa 107, 140 food 235 Royal Tombs (Nuku’alofa) 173 Tonga 185 R-T Tonga 206 Royal Tombs (‘Uiha) 188 spas (Samoa) 105 Sa’ilele 151 Virgin’s Grave 128 sport 137, 213 sailing 17, 33 Tonga 168-209, 170 stamp collecting 200 Rarotonga & the Cook Islands accommodation 168, 176-7, 180-1, 60-1, 96 star mounds 11, 123, 131, 150 186-7, 188-9, 193, 195, 197, 205 Samoa 143 Stevenson, Robert Louis 115-16, activities 174-5, 191-2 118, 137 Tonga 191, 207 climate 168 Sunday activities Saleapaga 119 culture 202, 224 Samoa 128 Sale’aula 129 drinking 178-9, 196 Tonga 177, 178 Salelologa 125-8 economy 200 surfing 34 Samoa 100-44, 102 electricity 206 Rarotonga & the Cook Islands 60-1 accommodation 100, 106, 110-12, entertainment 179 Samoa 107, 121, 133, 140 118-19, 120-2, 122-3, 123-4, 125-7, environment 204 Tonga 175, 180, 181, 197 129-30, 132, 133-4, 138-9 ’Eua 181-3 Suwarrow 89 activities 107, 116, 129, 139-40 family life 226 Swallows’ Cave 197-8 climate 100 festivals & events 193 swimming 34 culture 135-7, 223 food 168, 177-8, 187, 196, 205, 206 drinking 100, 101, 114, 127-8 Ha’apai Group 183-9, 183 economy 134 T history 201-2 emergencies 101 Tafahi 199 internet access 206 entertainment 114-5 Tafua Peninsula Rainforest Preserve itineraries 24, 169, 24 environment 138 133 medical services 171, 187, 196 family life 226 Tagaloa (Tangaroa) 161 money 169, 206 festivals & events 141 Talamahu Market 174, 178 Niua Group 198-200 food 100, 101, 112-14, 119-20, 122, Talihau village 197 planning 169, 206 127-8, 129-30, 132, 133-4, 141 Tamarua 85 politics 200 history 134-5 Tanagaloa DC3 aeroplanes 208 population 169, 202 internet access 131, 141 Tangaroa the Creator 227 religion 202-3, 225-6 itineraries 23, 101, 23 tapa 204, 231 shopping 179, 196 medical services 128 Tasman, Abel 180, 201, 217 sights 173-4, 179-80, 185-6, 190-1, money 101, 141 tattoos 91 196-7 politics 134 American Samoa 157 telephone services 169, 206 population 101, 137 Rarotonga & the Cook Islands 68 time zones 207 Savai’i’ 124-34, 126-7 Samoa 138 Tongatapu 171-81, 172-3 shopping 115 Ta’u 159-61 tourist information 207 sights 103-4, 115-18, 120, 128-9, Taufa’ahau, see Tupou, King George I tours 175-6, 185, 192-3 131-2, 132-3 Ta’u 159-60, 160 travel seasons 168 telephone services 141 telephone services 15, see also travel to/from 169, 207 time zones 142 individual locations travel within 207-8 tours 105-6 Te Maeva Nui 20 Vava’u Group 189-98, 192-3 travel to/from 101, 142-3 Te Pare Fort 83 Tongan language 248-9 travel within 143-4 Te Rua Manga 6, 59 Tongatapu 171-81, 172-3 ’Upolu 102-24, 104-5, 116 Teuila Festival 20, 141 To Sua Ocean Trench 8, 117, 8 Samoa International Game Fishing time change 214 tourism 212 Tournament 139 time zones tours 241, see also package tours, Samoan language 246-8 American Samoa 164 walking tours, individual locations Sapapali’i 125-6 Rarotonga & the Cook Islands 95 traditions 223-6 Satoalepai Turtle Sanctuary 129 262 travel to/from Rarotonga, Samoa & Vava’u Group 8 watersports 31-4 Tonga 238-41 Vava’u Group 189-98, 192-3 Rarotonga & the Cook Islands travel within Rarotonga, Samoa & vegetarian travellers 235 60-1, 92 Tonga 241-2 visas 15 weather 14, 19-21, 34 treehouses 121 American Samoa 146, 164 weaving 232 tropical cyclones 34 Cook Islands 45 weddings (Cook Islands) 63 tsunamis 136 Samoa 142 Weil’s disease 243-4 Tuasivi 126-7 Tonga 169, 207 Wendt, Albert 137 INDEX tumunus (bush beer clubs) 77 volcanoes whales 163, 190, 204, 13 Tupou, King George (I) 217-19 Fonuafo’ou 188 whale watching 12, 34 Tupou, King George (II) 220 Mt Matavanu Crater 128 Rarotonga & the Cook Islands T-Y turtles 129, 204 Niuafo’ou 199-200 57-8, 62 Tutuila 147-58, 148 Tafahi 199 Tonga 182, 185, 192, 199 typhoid fever 244 volunteering White Sunday 141 Rarotonga 60 wildlife 92 Tonga 197 wildlife sanctuaries 57-8, 129, see U also marine reserves, national Uafato Conservation Area 117 parks & reserves ’Uiha 188-9 W Williams, Reverend John 85, 89 ukulele 230 walking tours woodcarving 232 umu 128 Apia 113, 113 Uoleva 188 Wallis, Samuel 217 ’Upolu 102-24, 104-5, 116 waterfalls Y Afu-A-Au Falls 133 yachting 241 American Samoa 165 V Nu’uuli Falls 149-50 Papapapai-tai Falls 117 Rarotonga & the Cook Islands 96 vacations, see holidays Papase’ea Sliding Rocks 116 Samoa 143 vaccinations 243 Sopo’aga Falls 118 Tonga 191, 207 Vai Lahi 200 Wigmore’s Waterfall 58

000 Map pages 000 Photo pages 263

These symbols will help you ﬁ nd the listings you want: 1 Sights T Tours 6 Drinking Look out for these icons: Beaches Festivals & Events Entertainment r z 3 Our author’s o recommendation 2 Activities 4 Sleeping 7 Shopping No payment Information/ F required C Courses 5 Eating 8 Transport A green or S sustainable option These symbols give you the vital information for each listing: Our authors have nominated % Telephone Numbers W Wi-Fi Access g Bus these places as demonstrating h Opening Hours s Swimming Pool f Ferry a strong commitment to p Parking v Vegetarian Selection m Metro sustainability – for example by supporting local communities n Nonsmoking E English-Language Menu b Subway and producers, operating in an a Air-Conditioning c Family-Friendly j Tram environmentally friendly way, i Internet Access # Pet-Friendly d Train or supporting conservation projects. Reviews are organised by author preference.

Map Legend Sights Entertainment Routes Boundaries Beach Entertainment Tollway International Buddhist Freeway State/Province Shopping Castle Primary Disputed Shopping Christian Secondary Regional/Suburb Hindu Information Tertiary Marine Park Islamic Bank Lane Cliff Jewish Embassy/ Unsealed Road Wall Monument Consulate Plaza/Mall Hydrography Museum/Gallery Hospital/Medical Steps River, Creek Ruin Internet Tunnel Intermittent River Winery/Vineyard Police Pedestrian Swamp/Mangrove Zoo Post Office Overpass Reef Other Sight Telephone Walking Tour Canal Toilet Walking Tour Activities, Courses Water Tourist Information Detour & Tours Dry/Salt/ Other Information Path Diving/Snorkelling Intermittent Lake Canoeing/Kayaking Transport Geographic Glacier Skiing Airport Hut/Shelter Areas Surfing Border Crossing Lighthouse Beach/Desert Swimming/Pool Bus Lookout Walking Cable Car/ Mountain/Volcano Cemetery Windsurfing Funicular Oasis (Christian) Other Activity/ Cycling Park Cemetery (Other) Course/Tour Ferry Pass Park/Forest Sleeping Metro Picnic Area Sleeping Monorail Waterfall Sportsground Camping Parking Population Sight (Building) Petrol Station Eating Capital (National) Taxi Top Sight Eating Capital Train/Railway (Building) (State/Province) Drinking Tram City/Large Town Drinking Other Transport Town/Village Cafe 251

Behind the Scenes

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OUR READERS piglets are doing well. Cheers to Sandra at Many thanks to the travellers who used the TVB, Luisa and Tai, Craig, and to my good the last edition and wrote to us with help- mate Kava. Double-special thanks to my ful hints, useful advice and interesting exceptionally beautiful wife Yuriko for putting anecdotes: up with the mess. A hearty cheers to co- authors Brett and Celeste and to Maryanne Claire Allen, Aurore Aurore, Ed Austin, Judith and Corey at Lonely Planet Melbourne. Bamp, Jamie Berwick, Guadalupe Blasco, Michaela Bodesheim, Jens Boernemeyer, Brett Atkinson Mark Boyd, Patrick Bradley, M Camden, Meitaki ma’ata to all the friendly Cook Island- Pam Cussen, Angela Dewhirst, Rowin Dreef, ers I met on my travels, especially Papatua Nicolas Fofeu, Debi Futter, Jean-Sebastien Papatua in Rarotonga, Marshall and Jéanne Gagnon, T Gandell, Stephan Goutier, G Humphreys on ’Atiu, and Tangata and Teata Gray, Kaori Hashimoto, Mark Hillhouse, Vera Ateriano on Ma’uke. On tiny Mitiaro, thanks to Hohaus, Carolina Isfer, Ewa Janek, Geraldine Papa Neke – and a big hug to Aunty Mii – and Keogh, Phillipa Laughton, Chris Letsinger, on Aitutaki, thank you to Tutai Clark. Back in Ian Mackenzie, Alan Matthews, Ann-Mari Auckland, Kelly Hansen and Michal McKay Michaels, Timea Negyesi, Zoe Mae Nemer- were both very helpful, and love and thanks ever, Alexandra Nisbeck, John D Nobelius, to Carol for holding the fort at Casa Loma. Vincent O’Malley, Chris Perman, Todd Porter, Cindy Rimmington, Esther Rueden, Chris Celeste Brash Steele, Kewin Stoeckigt Most thanks to my kids Jasmine and Tevai and my husband Josh for putting up with my absences. In Samoa thanks to the Martel AUTHOR THANKS family, Christina Gale, Gabor and Fiona and Craig McLachlan Ocean. In American Samoa huge thanks to A huge malo ’aupito to all those who helped John and Luao Wasko, my Ta’u host Lesi’i and me out in Tonga this time around. Special Sia Figiel. mention to Bruno in Vava’u – I hope all your

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researched and written by Craig Craig by and written researched and Atkinson Brett McLachlan, The previous Brash. Celeste edition, McLachlan and Craig by written Smitz and Paul Dragicevich. Peter wrote Farfor Suzannah 5 Tonga Islands & THIS BOOK Planet’s Lonely edition of This 7th Tonga & Samoa Rarotonga, the Cook Islands 6 Hunt, Berry and Errol Oliver by written while the 5th edition was Keller. Hunt and Nancy Errol by commis- was This guidebook Mel- Planet’s sioned in Lonely

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