©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 257 travel within 165 Muri 58 Tutuila 147-58, 148 Ofu Beach 12, 158 ’Anahulu Cave 180 Oholei Beach 179 Anatakitaki Cave 10, 76, 10 O’otu Beach 70 animal welfare 60 Palagi Beach 151 animals 92, see also individual Sa’ilele 151 species Saleapaga 119 A’opo Conservation Area 131 Salelologa 125 Apia 103-15, 108-9, 116 ’Upolu 120 Apolima 124 Vaiala Beach 103 archaeological sites beer 77 American Samoa 150, 159, 160 bicycle travel, see cycling A Samoa 123, 131, 132 birds 76, 92, 182 accommodation 26-30, see also Tonga 171, 179, 180, 186 books 91 individual locations architecture 137, 231 megapodes 200, 204 activities 31-5, see also individual area codes swiftlets 76, 120, 129, 197-8 activities American Samoa 146 birdwatching 62, 77 Aganoa Beach 133 Rarotonga & the Cook Islands 45 Bligh, Captain William 189 air travel 238-41 Samoa 101 blogs 214 airlines 238-9 Tonga 169 blowholes 134 tickets 239 ’Arorangi 58 blue worms 18, 121 Aitutaki 69-75, 70, 17 arts 230-2, see also books, dance, boat travel 240-1, 241, 242, see also Alega Beach 152 music cruises, yachting Aleipata 117 American Samoa 162 books 214 Alofaaga Blowholes 134 Rarotonga & the Cook Islands 91 birds 91 American Samoa 145-65, 147 Samoa 137-8 Rarotonga & the Cook Islands 91 2009 earthquake & tsunami 161 Tonga 203 Samoa 137 accommodation 145, 153-5, 159, Arutanga 69-70 Bougainville, Louis-Antoine de 160, 163 ’Atiu 10, 76-80, 78, 10 161, 217 activities 151-3 ATMs Bounty, the 189, 217 budget 146 American Samoa 146 budget 14, see also individual locations climate 145 Rarotonga & the Cook Islands 45 budget accommodation 29 culture 162 Samoa 101 bus travel 242 drinking 156 Tonga 169 business hours economy 161 Aufaga 119 American Samoa 163 environment 162-3 Aunu’u 152 Rarotonga & the Cook Islands 93 entertainment 156 Avaio Beach 152 Samoa 115, 140 festivals & events 163 Avarua 10, 51-7, 54-5, 2-3, 10 Tonga 205 food 146, 155-6, 163 Avarua Landing 85-6 history 161-2 aviation buffs 208 internet access 163-4 C itineraries 23, 146, 23 camping 30 B Manu’a Islands 158-60 canned meats 205 Bahá’í House of Worship 116 medical services 157 cannibalism 225 Baker, Reverend Shirley 201 money 146, 164 canoes 231 beaches 16 planning 146 Cape Mulinu’u 11, 11 Aganoa Beach 133 population 146, 162 Cape Taputapu 151 Alega Beach 152 shopping 156 car travel 15, 242 Aleipata 117 sights 147-51, 158-9 American Samoa 165 ’Ano 197 telephone services 146, 164 Rarotonga & the Cook Islands 50-1 ʼAtiu 76 time zones 164 Samoa 144 Avaio Beach 152 tours 153 Tonga 208 ’Eua’iki 198 travel seasons 145 cathedrals, see churches & cathedrals Foe’ata 198 travel to/from 146, 164-5 caves Ha’atafu Beach Reserve 180 ’Anahulu Cave 180 Hinakauea 197 ’Atiu 76 Houmale’eia Beach 185 000 Map pages Dwarf’s Cave 130 Lalomanu Beach 117 000 Photo pages Falealupo Peninsula 132 Ma’uke 80, 81 258 caves continued budget 45 dangers, see safety Mangaia 85 climate 44 Davis, Sir Tom 91 Mariner’s Cave 198 culture 90, 223 day cruises 31-2 Ma’uke 80 drinking 54-5, 67, 75, 82 DC3 aeroplanes 208 Mitiaro 83 electricity 94 dengue fever 243 Pe’ape’a Cave 120, 129 environment 91 diarrhoea 244 Piula Cave Pool 118 family life 225-6 Disappearing Island 188 caving 34, 92-3 festivals & events 93 Divided Church 82 INDEX INDEX cell phones 15 food 44, 45, 53-4, 64-7, 74-5, 79-80, diving 16, 32-3, 36, see also snorkelling cemeteries 82, 87, 93 Rarotonga & the Cook Islands Shirley Baker Monument & history 89-90 59-60, 70-1, 92 C-E European Cemetery 185 internet access 94 Samoa 107, 129, 139 children, travel with 36-7 internet resources 94 Tonga 174, 181, 185, 189, 191, 199 Rarotonga & the Cook Islands 61, 93 itineraries 22, 25, 45, 47, 22, 25 drinking, see individual locations Samoa 140 language 45 drinking water 244 Tonga 205 Mangaia 85-8, 86 drinks 234-6, see also beer Christian, Fletcher 189 Ma’uke 80-2, 81 driving, see car travel Christianity 136, 202-3 media & television 94 driving licences churches & cathedrals medical services 69, 75, 82 American Samoa 165 Bahá’í House of Worship 116 Mitiaro 82-5, 84 Rarotonga & the Cook Islands 50 Centenary Chapel 173 money 45, 94-5 Samoa 144 Cook Islands Christian Church Northern islands 88-9 Tonga 172, 208 (Arutanga) 69 Palmerston 75-6 Dwarf’s Cave 130 Cook Islands Christian Church planning 45 (Avarua) 52 population 90 Cook Islands Christian Church Rarotonga 47-69, 48-9 E earthquakes 136 (Matavera) 59 religion 224 economy 221-2 Cook Islands Christian Church safe travel 93 (Mitiaro) 83 shopping 55-7, 68, 80, 87 embassies & consulates Cook Islands Christian Churches sights 51-2, 57-9, 69-70, 80-1, 83, American Samoa 163 (Mangaia) 85 85, 87 Rarotonga & the Cook Islands 93 Divided Church 82 telephone services 45, 95 Samoa 140-1 Holy Family Cathedral 150 tourist information 95 Tonga 205-6 lava-ruined churches 128 tours 53, 61-2, 71-2, 77, 81-2, 87, 97 emergencies LMS Church 128 travel seasons 44 American Samoa 146 Mormon Temple 104 travel to/from 45, 95-6 Rarotonga & the Cook Islands 45 Mulivai Catholic Cathedral 104 travel within 96-7 Samoa 101 St Joseph’s Cathedral 191 weights & measures 94 Tonga 169 CICCs, see churches & cathedrals Cook Islands Christian Churches, see environmental issues 213-14 climate 14, 19-21, 34, see also churches & cathedrals Esther Honey Foundation 60 individual locations costs 14 etiquette 235 climate change 91-2 accommodation 92, 139, 163, 205 ’Eua 181-3 coffee plantations 76-7 food 93, 141, 163, 206 ’Eua’iki 198 colonisation 219-20 crafts 231-2 ’Euakafa 198 concrete parks 179 cricket 123 European exploration 216-17 consulates, see embassies & Cross-Island Track 6, 59, 7 European explorers consulates cruises 31-2 Bougainville, Louis-Antoine de Cook, Captain James 85, 89, 179, 202, cultural shows 18 161, 217 217, 222 culture 223-6, see also individual Cook, Captain James 85, 89, 179, Cook Islands, the 44-97, 46 locations 202, 217, 222 accommodation 44, 53, 62-4, 72-4, currency 15, see also exchange rates Galaup, Jean-François de 161 78-9, 81-2, 83, 92, cycling 34-5, 241-2 Krusenstern, Admiral Adam Johann activities 52-3, 59-61, 70-1, 76-7, 92 cyclones 34 von 89 Aitutaki 69-75, 70 le Maire, Jacob 201 ’Atiu 76-80, 78 Mendaña y Neyra, Don Alvaro D de 89 dance 230 Mourelle, Don Francisco Antonio Rarotonga & the Cook Islands 91 201 000 Map pages Samoa 114 Quirós, Pedro Fernández de 89 000 Photo pages Tonga 204 Roggeveen, Jacob 134, 161 259 Schouten, Willem 201, 217 Ha’apai Group 8, 183-9, 183 King Taufa’ahau Tupou IV 202 Tasman, Abel 180, 201, 217 health 243-4 King Tupou VI 201 events, see festivals & events Heilala Festival 20 kite surfing 33, 61, 92 exchange rates Henry, Albert 221 Krusenstern, Admiral Adam Johann American Samoa 146 hepatitis A 244 von 89 Rarotonga & the Cook Islands 45 Highland Paradise Cultural Centre 58 Samoa 101 Hihifo 199 L Tonga 169 hiking 17, 35 lakes INDEX INDEX American Samoa 151-2, 159 Aunu’u 152 F Rarotonga & the Cook Islands 7, Lake Lanoto’o 116 60, 62 Lake Te Roto 76 fa’afafine 136-7, see also fakaleiti E-M Samoa 107, 131, 139-40 Fafá Island 181 Mitiaro 83 Tonga 182 Fafa O Sauai’i 11, 131 Vai Lahi 200 historic sites 17 Fagamalo 130 Lalomalava 125-6 history 215-22 Fagatele Bay National Marine Lalomanu 118 Sanctuary 8, 152 colonialism 219-20 Lalomanu Beach 117, 6-7 fakaleiti 203, see also fa’afafine European contact 216-17 languages 15, 245-51 fale 139 independence 220-1 Rarotongan 245-6 Falealupo Rainforest Preserve 131 missionaries 217-19 Samoan 246-8 family life 225-6 Polynesian settlement 215-16 Tongan 248-9 ferry tragedy (Tonga) 209 postcolonial era 221-2 Lano 126-7 festivals & events 19-21, see also hitching 242 Lapita 134, 201, 216 individual locations holidays lava fields 128 fiafia 137 Rarotonga & the Cook Islands 95 lava tubes 131 films 213 Tonga 206 le Maire, Jacob 201 fishing 33 hongi 226 legends, see myths & legends Rarotonga & the Cook Islands 52, hostels 30 Leone 150 59, 71, 87 Hufangalupe Archway 180 leptospirosis 243-4 Samoa 107, 139 Hunga 198 lesbian travellers 206 Tonga 191, 198 literature, see books fishing pigs 179 I flying foxes 92, 163, 180 ie toga 138 M Foa 187 independence 220-2 Mafana 198 Foe’ata 198 insurance Maire, Jacob Le 217 Foelifuka 198 car 242 Mala 197 Fofoa 198 health 243 Manase 130 Fonuafo’ou 188 International Date Line 240 Mangaia 85-8, 86 food 233-6, see also individual internet resources 15, 164, 213 Manihiki 88 locations island formation 35 Manono 123-4 foreign aid 212-13 island nights 11, 68 Manu’a Islands 158-60 Friendly Islands 202 itineraries 22-5, 22, 23, 24, 25, see Maori 89 Frisbie, Robert Dean 88, 89, 91 also individual locations maps Ivirua 85 American Samoa 164 G Samoa 141 Galaup, Jean-François de 161 K marae 89 galleries, see museums & galleries Kalau 198 Arai-Te-Tonga Marae 59 gardens, see parks & gardens Kao 189 Ma’uke 81 gay travellers 206 Kapa 197-8 Marae Orongo 69, 77 geography 35 karting 191 Marae Puarakura 81 golf courses Marae Rangimanuka 81 Kauraka Kauraka 91 American Samoa 153 Marae Takero 83 kava 136, 205, 234 Rarotonga & the Cook Islands 61 Marae Te Apiripiri 77 kayaking 8, 33-4 Samoa 107 Marae Vairakai 77 American Samoa 153 Grey, Aggie 111 marine reserves, see also national Rarotonga & the Cook Islands 61 parks & reserves, wildlife Samoa 107, 140 sanctuaries H Tonga 175, 185, 192 Fagatele Bay National Marine Ha’amonga ‘a Maui Trilithon 11 King George Tupou I 201 Sanctuary 152 Ha’ano 187 King George Tupou V 200, 201, 202 Palolo Deep Marine Reserve 105 260 Mariner, William 184, 202 Falemataaga – The Museum of Palagi Beach 151 Mariner’s Cafe 186 Samoa 103-4 Palmerston