THE STATE COLLEGE OF WASHINGTON EXTENSION SERVICE CO-OPERATIVE EXTENSION WORK IN AGRICULTURE AND HOME ECONOMICS

W. S. THORNBER, DIRECTOR

STATE Of" WASHINGTON PULLMAN STATE COLLEGE OF WASHINGTON BOYS' AND GIRLS' CLUBS U . S. DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE CO·OPERATI NG

Girls' Sewing Clubs LESSON No. 3 By JOSEPHINE E. ARNQUIST, Emergency Assistant State Club Leader

BUTTON HOLES AND STOCKING DARNING. Fasteners: A garment which is well made and its stitches being placed evenly and closely togeth­ otherwise very good can have its appearance al­ er and drawn tightly. In working the buttonhole most spoiled because of the absence of fasteners well the thread should be sufficiently long to complete sewed on. A garment is not finished until it has it; otherwise there is apt to be a rough place in good fasteners upon it. A garment should never the edge when the thread is changed. The thread be fastened with pins. should be a little heavier than the threads in the cloth worked. Use as fine a needle as ·will carry the th ead. To , ·work a buttonhole first put in stranding threads (Illustration No. 7). This is done by two or .more stitches across the lower end of the slit to keep it from stretching. Then take two or more stitches down the side, across the end and up the other side one-sixteenth inch from the edge, Button Holes: Button holes are made in several bringing the needle out at the starting point. This ways. The stitch used may be either the single will strengthen the buttonhole and will be covered or double purl; the single purl being the same as by the stitches. Next over-cast the edges (Illus­ the blanket stitch, while the double purl is the tration No. 8), sinking the over-casting stitch a true buttonhole stitch and is much better for hard thread beyond stranding. Four or five over-cast­ wear. As to finish, they may be buttonholed all ing stitches along each side will be enough to pre­ the way around, or they may have a bar at one vent raveling, and will hold the strands in place, end and round at the other, or they may have a but neither the stranding nor the over-casting bar at both ends. The buttonhole that has a bar should be too deep, as both m.ust be covered with at one end and is round at the other is called a the buttonhole stitch. The last stitch in over­ tailor's buttonhole and is found on tailored garments, casting sho;uld bring the needle out at the end of particularly on men's and womeri 's ready made the slit ready to begin working the buttonhole. coats. To take the buttonhole stitch (Illustration No. To make a buttonhole, begin the slit about one­ 9), bring the point of the needle through towards fourth inch in from the edge and, being sure to the worker deep enough to cover all the threads cut it on a thread through both or all thicknesses that have been made before and prevent pulling of the cloth, cut it as long as the diameter of the out. Before pulling through make the buttonhole button that is to pass through it. The final ap­ purl by taking the thread over the eye of the pearance of the buttonhole depends almost entirely needle and carrying it around the point of the upon its being cut straight with a clean cut and needle in the direction in which the work is reach- ing. When the · end is reached take seven or nine ·If the hooks and eyes cannot be covered . the spreading stitches, making a fan, if a rounded end buttonhole stitch is used to fasten them on (Il­ is desired. (Illustration No. 9). Continue down the lustration Nos. 1 and 2). Hold the hook and eye other side. If a bar is used, put the neeqle into in place and sew do,,rn by a series of buttonhole the opposite purl at the end of the slit, draw the stitches having purl turned outward. The outer two sides together and make several long stitches end of the hook is held in place by over and over the length of the width that the buttonhole is cut. stitches. ork the bar across the end, working from left '¥ Each member should fasten hooks and eyes upDn to right with the blanket stitch. Finish by taking some garment to be used. a fevir tiny stitches on the wrong side. In making a tailored buttonhole, the end next Loops-Eyelets and Buttons : An eyelet 1s a the edge of goods should be made with a stiletto hole punched in material strengthening the edge or shai'p punch and- then as soon as the round by having stitehes placed around the edge. We hole is made, cut the slit from this extending hack may have eyelets worked in three ways: by over­ in the proper direction. ':rhis is worked in the handing closely (Illustration No. 4), by· working same manner as the one above. _with a buttonhole stitch, having purl on the edge like a bi1ttonhole (Illustration No. 5), and having In making the buttonhole vvith two bars work the purl placed on the outer edge of the work down the first isde as before, then in to begin~ing instead of on inner. When worked in this last come up the other side, make a bar at the end just way the blanket stitch or .flat buttonhole as it is as the bar was made to finish the first buttonhole sometimes called is often used. In making simple given. Each membe·r should make a trial button­ eyelets be careful to have the holes round by vush­ hole on a piece of waste material. Then place a ing the thread away in all directi9ns rather than by buttonhole on a garment which can be used. tearing any of the threads. Hooks and Eyes: 'l'he first thing to be consid­ ered in placing hooks and eyes is the kind of clos­ Loops are used to take the place of metal eyes ing in the garment, whether the edges are desired or buttonholes. Threads should be fastened firmly, just to ·meet or to lap. If they are desired to meet, then calculate the size. If for a button it should the edge of the eye should extend a little beyond . be sufficiently long to pass over it; if for a hook the edge of the cloth and the hook should be just- long enough to hold hook in place. Take placed a littl.e back of the edge of the cloth. Sorrle­ three or four stitches back and forth the length times the hooks and eyes are sevved on alternately required fasten the second end securely and work on the opposite sides, as this helps to • keep the over the thread closely 'vith the buttonhole stitch, edges together. \Vhere the edges lap the eyes or loop stitch (Illustration No. 6). may be sewed along the line of the opening and Buttons: In placing a button, lap buttonhole the hooks sewed with their outer ends on the edge over and stick a pin down at crown .end. Remove of the lap. the pin and take several stitches in its place on In sewing hooks and eyes, their position on the the right side. Put the needle through the hole in garment and whether they are to be covered or the button, then by laying a pin over the top of single should be considered.· For the fronts of the button and placing the threads over this pin waists and skirt plackets of heavy material it is (Illustration No. 3), the threads will be loose good to cover with a strip of goods or tape, but enough to allow plenty of room so the button will on silk and washable material it is unnecessary. not tear cloth by pulling, or break off so easily in If the garment is unlined it is well to place a thin laundering. In· sewing on buttons with four holes, tape behind the hooks and eyes. 'Vhenever hooks the thread may be either crossed in the center or and eyes are sewed upon a turned back edge it is appear in the form of a square on the top. The \-vell to leave enough of the edge free to turn back former is the commoner method.. Sometimes in over them, covering up the eyes aJl but the curve fastening, the thread is carried through the button at the other end, and passing under the hook on and then wound around the threads passing the hooks covering up the baclrs of them. Hem through the button, between the button and the €lovirn this edge. If this extension is not allowed cloth, forming a sort of shank of threads. In sew­ the tape should be placed over them in the same ing on a button with a shank, place it so that the manner, and hemmed down on both edges. rubbing of the cloth will come against the shank of the button and not against the stitches and so the stitches ,~· ith those of the first row. 'rhis that the shank will be parallel with the slit of the third row should begin and correspond with the buttonhole across it. first row, the fourth with the second, and so on. Each member should sew several buttons on End on the wrong side with a back stitch. Keep some garment to be used. the foundation threads flat while drawing them through and do not draw the goods. In weaving DARNING the filling, the surface can be held over a large baste spool or something flat to keep from puck­ The darning stitch is a very fine running stitch ering. This simple form of weave is the first woven in and out and back and forth on the right known example of holding fibers together and is side. Darning is used to fill a space when a patch called a plain weave. is not necessary. A piece of cloth may be put un­ We wish to give credit to the Agricultural Ex­ derneath it to strengthen the darned place and tension Service of the University of Missouri for woven in at the same time. These two raw edges the suggestions on "Fasteners" embodied in this should be brought together without puckering, lesson.) misshaping or raveling, nor should they be over­ lapped. A woof tear makes the easiest of all QUESTIONS darns, as the stitches are woven with the warp. 1. vVhen. do you consider a garment completed Start at the top of the tear and work down and ready for wear? without tying a knot in the thread. Leave the 2. 'Vhen should a buttonhole be cut on the raw edges on the underside and at each start warp threads, and when on the woof? make the return ·stitch as short as possible. Each 3. Would the method of sewing on a button line of stitches must be parallel. End on the on your winter coat differ from sewing one on a wrong side with a short over and over stitch sheer gown? If so, what is the difference? (unless using real coarse yarn). Press the darn on the right side, first laying a damp cloth over it. 4. If you were darning a tear in a serge dress ·what thread would be best to use, and why? In darning woolen cloth it is best to use ravel­ ings from left-over pieces of same material and 5. If you wished to make a· buttonhole having these will be of the exact color and weight. Use great strength, describe your method of sewing warp threads, as they are usually the stronger. the ends. PRACTICE STOCKING DARNING 1. Make ten good buttonholes. It is suggested Comm.ence at the right near the top, making a that you begin on coarse material first-a boy's running stitch· around the edge of the circle, and gingham blouse or a calico apron would be good starting at the same place, make the foundation practice garments. threads parallel with the warp threads of the goods. Take a small full stitch each time, leaving 2. Sew ten buttons on garments actually need­ the raw edges on the under side, never using the ing buttons. same hole for the return stitch, thus making a 3. Darn your own hose the rest of the year space between the vertical rows. After the hole (if you do not already do so). has been covered with warp rows, start the hori­ Send answers to Questions and Practice to­ zontal lines at the lower right edge, taking a firm stitch and weaving in and out, or over, then un­ State Leader Boys' and Girls' Clubs, der, never missing a warp strand. In the second State College of Washington, row weave first under and then over, alternating Pullman, Washington