The Blanket Stitch
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Winter Mitten Making
1 Winter Mitten Making By: Kielyn & Dave Marrone Version 2.0, October 2015 http://lureofthenorth.com 2 Note 1- This booklet is part of a series of DIY booklets published by Lure of the North. For all other publications in this series, please see our website at lureofthenorth.com. Published instructional booklets can be found under "Info Hub" in the main navigation menu. Note 2 – Lure Mitten Making Kits: These instructions are intended to be accompanied by our Mitten Making Kit, which is available through the “Store” section of our website at: http://lureofthenorth.com/shop. Of course, you can also gather all materials yourself and simply use these instructions as a guide, modifying to suit your requirements. Note 3 - Distribution: Feel free to distribute these instructions to anyone you please, with the requirement that this package be distributed in its entirety with no modifications whatsoever. These instructions are also not to be used for any commercial purpose. Thank you! Note 4 – Feedback and Further Help: Feedback is welcomed to improve clarity in future editions. For even more assistance you might consider taking a mitten making workshop with us. These workshops are run throughout Ontario, and include hands-on instructions and all materials. Go to lureofthenorth.com/calendar for an up to date schedule. Our Philosophy: This booklet describes our understanding of a traditional craft – these skills and this knowledge has traditionally been handed down from person to person and now we are attempting to do the same. We are happy to have the opportunity to share this knowledge with you, however, if you use these instructions and find them helpful, please give credit where it is due. -
Schmetz Needle Guide
NEEDLE GUIDE Needle Anatomy Butt: The beveled end allows easy insertion in the needle bar. Shank: Household needles have a flat shank, while commercial and industrial needles have round, threaded, notched or other special shanks. Shanks allow perfect positioning of the needle in the sewing machine needle bar. Shoulder: The sloping area transitioning between the shank and blade. Schmetz color codes appear on the shoulder. Blade: Needle size is determined by the blade diameter (i.e., size 75 is .75mm) Groove: The groove cradles and guides thread to the eye. The length and size of the groove vary according to needle type. Scarf: The indentation above the eye that allows the bobbin hook to smoothly grab the thread under the throat plate to create a stitch. The shape and size of the scarf vary according to needle type. Eye: The hole through which thread passes. The shape and size of the eye vary according to needle type. Point and Tip: Length, shape and size vary according to needle types. Change Your Needle 130/705 H Damaged or worn needles result in: Household sewing machines require a needle with a flattened shank. All needles in this system have a flattened shank for perfect needle • Broken or shredded threads positioning in the needle bar in relation to the hook. • Skipped stitches • Puckered fabrics • Damaged fabrics Schmetz Works with All Sewing Machines! • Uneven threads Schmetz needles work with all new, current and older household sewing machines! Replace Your Needle It’s the easiest way to How to Read a Needle Package improve your stitch quality. -
Stitch Guide by Johanna Lindahl
1 Stitch Guide By Johanna Lindahl In this stitch guide all the uncommon stitches used in my patterns are described. Note that sometimes stitches are made in a different way than in this guide and in that case that specific stitch is described in the pattern. Content, US terms: • Picot • Popcorn (pop) • Puff • Front post slip stitch (FPss) • Front post single crochet (FPsc) • Double crochet 2 together (dc2tog) • Double crochet 3 together (dc3tog) • Front post double crochet (FPdc) • Front post treble (FPtr) • Front post trebles 2 together (FPtr2tog) • Back post slip stitch (BPss) • Back post single crochet (BPsc) • Back post half double crochet (BPhdc) • Back post double crochet (BPdc) • Back post treble (BPtr) • Spike single crochet • Standing single crochet • Standing double crochet • Invisible join Ravelry Store: Johanna Lindahl Designs Blogg: mijocrochet.se | Facebook: Mijo Crochet | Instagram: @mijocrochet Mijo Crochet 2018. Picot 2 Chain one (or more). Then you make a slip stitch through the front loop and the front vertical loop in the single crochet (or dc) just made. Popcorn (pop) Make 4 double crochet in the specified stitch. Drop the loop from your hook and then insert your hook in the first double crochet you made. Grab the dropped loop and pull it through the stitch. Ravelry Store: Johanna Lindahl Designs Blogg: mijocrochet.se | Facebook: Mijo Crochet | Instagram: @mijocrochet Mijo Crochet 2018. Puff 3 Yo, insert the hook into the specified stitch. Pull the yarn through the stitch. [Yo and insert the hook into the same stitch and yo again. Pull the yarn through the stitch] 3 more times. -
Multifunctional Blanket Stitch By: Magdamagda
Multifunctional Blanket Stitch By: magdamagda http://www.burdastyle.com/techniques/multifunctional-blanket-stitch What better time for hand sewing revelations than now when my sewing machine is in service? sigh I have been thinking about this for some time – one type of hand stitch that comes in handy in so many situations! I’ll point out the ones I thought about, new ideas are welcome! Known as the “blanket stitch” it can back up your sewing machine in some situations or even go where no sewing machine has gone before!!!! First this is how it’s done: I prefer to stitch right to left. Bring the thread to front at desired distance from the edge ( about 2 mm for buttonholes, 4-5 mm for serging). Take the thread over the edge of the cloth and pull the needle back to front through the same point. Make a loop around this thread segment at the cloth edge level. At some distance from the first “entry point” (3-4 mm for serging) and at the same distance from the edge thrust the needle from front to back and pull the needle through the loop formed by the remaining thread. You can help yourself by keeping the thread over the index finger of the left hand while doing so. Repeat, repeat, repeat..:) Tip: If you are serging, make sure not to pull the thread too much and cause the fabric to pluck. If you’re working on a button hole or doing some embroidery work pull the thread just right so that the thread remains straight: not too loose, not too tight:) Tip-tip:) : If the thread gets twisted on itself , you can straighten it out by sliding the needle close to the fabric and running the thread through your fingers from the fixed end towards the loose end (a few times) Note: Whatever you plan to use this stitch for, you’ll find it ideal when dealing with curved lines! A video to catch the basic move: Step 1 — [serging] Multifunctional Blanket Stitch 1 Use it for: 1) Serging (overcasting the raw edges of a fabric to prevent unraveling).. -
Faculty Development Grant Report Sumi Lee Professor of Fashion
Faculty Development Grant Report Sumi Lee Professor of Fashion Design Faculty Development Grant Report Submitted Sep.11th, 2017 Sumi Lee Professor of Fashion Design Project Description: In Fall 2016, I received a Faculty Development Grant to fund a textile art workshop titled “Places, Spaces and Traces” in Les Carroz, France. This workshop focused on creating artistic textile surfaces, while experimenting with found materials, different media, novel techniques, mark-making (i.e., use of stitch as a “line”), and paint methods on fabric (e.g., sun prints with silk dyes). These different approaches to creating textiles are often described as “painting with cloth.” This workshop was instructed by a renowned textile artist from the U.K., Cas Holmes, author of several books and articles including “The Found Object in Textile Art” and “Stitch Stories”. She utilizes a unique “hands-on” approach that showcases her experimental use of found materials and inventive application of textile and mixed media procedures. Significant Activities: According to Cas Holmes, the most important aspect of “creating art” is the process of developing one’s own approach to subject matter in a meaningful way. Specifically, Holmes showed how she makes connections to natural environments in developing her narratives and her personal vision as a textile artist. #1. Stitch- Sketching: Drawing and recording daily observation, and the realization of those ideas in textile is a process. Sketchbook by Cas Holms Sketchbook by Sumi Lee The colors, textures, and changing light over the meadows, fields and landscape can provide a stimulus for the narrative, formal, or abstract quality in textile works. -
Sewing Technique: Lock Stitch (Hem 1”)
Sewing Technique: Lock Stitch (Hem 1”) The lock stitch is a hand stitch used for hemming purposes. It gives a secure hold with limited view of the thread on the outer side of the garment. STEP 1: Stay stitch ¼-inch from the fabric edge. (A stay stitch is a single line that is used for guidance and to keep the fabric from fraying. It is a normal stitch length and backstitching is a personal preference.) STEP 2: Fold the hem edge back 1-inch. Press fold in order to make a crease in the fabric. Press fabric 1 again ¼-inch. This press will follow the stay stitch seam. STEP 3: Secure thread to the folded edge of fabric on stay stitch line in order to hide the knot. STEP 4: Moving left, make a small stitch (1/2 to ¾ inch). The stitch should first go through the ¼-inch fold; then a small stitch is made that only goes through the outside layer of the garment. Pull thread gently back through to the inside of the garment. Avoid pulling the thread tight as the needle passes back through the loop created from the stitch. 5 3 5 STEP 6: To tighten lock stitch, pull thread to the left. STEP 7: Continue moving left and repeating step 5 until seam is complete. STEP 8: Once finished, secure thread to prevent it from unraveling. NOTE: The lock stitch can be used in place of a catch stitch. 7 6 Industry Standards for a Well-Constructed Hem: • Hem is level • Hem lies flat • No puckers, twists, or extra bulk • Hand stitching is not visible on correct side of garment • Hand stitches are evenly spaced • Topstitching is even and parallel to hemline References: Readers Digest. -
Stitches and Seam Techniques
Stitches and Seam Techniques Seen on Dark Age / Medieval Garments in Various Museum Collections The following notes have been gathered while attempting to learn stitches and construction techniques in use during the Dark Ages / Medieval period. The following is in no way a complete report, but only an indication of some techniques observed on extant Dark Ages / Medieval garments. Hopefully, others who are researching “actual” garments of the period in question will also report on their findings, so that comparisons can be made and a better total understanding achieved. Jennifer Baker –New Varangian Guard – Hodegon Branch – 2009 Contents VIKING AND SAXON STITCHES 1. RUNNING STITCH 2. OVERSEWING 3. HERRINGBONE 4. BLANKET STITCH SEAMS 1. SEAMS 2. BUTTED SEAMS 3. STAND-UP SEAM 4. SEAMS SPREAD OPEN AFTER JOIN IS MADE 5. “LAPPED” FELL SEAM 6. FELL SEAM WORKED ON WRONG SIDE OF GARMENT FINISHES ON RAW EDGES OF SEAMS SEWING ON TABLET WOVEN BRAID HEMS OTHER STITCHES FOUND IN ARCHEOLOGICAL FINDS REFERENCES 1 Stitches and Seam Techniques VIKING AND SAXON STITCHES There are only four basic stitches to master: 1. RUNNING STITCH , 2. OVERSEWING, ALSO KNOWN AS OVERCAST STITCH OR WHIP STITCH 3. HERRINGBONE , ALSO KNOWN AS CATCH STITCH 4. AND BLANKET STITCH. ALSO KNOWN AS BUTTONHOLE STITCH Running stitch is probably the easiest to start with followed by oversewing. With these two stitches you can make clothing. The other two are for decorative edging. These directions are for a right handed person, if you are left handed remember to reverse all directions. 2 Stitches and Seam Techniques RUNNING STITCH A running stitch is done through one or more layers of fabric (but normally two or more), with the needle going down and up, down and up, in an essentially straight line. -
Powerhouse Museum Lace Collection: Glossary of Terms Used in the Documentation – Blue Files and Collection Notebooks
Book Appendix Glossary 12-02 Powerhouse Museum Lace Collection: Glossary of terms used in the documentation – Blue files and collection notebooks. Rosemary Shepherd: 1983 to 2003 The following references were used in the documentation. For needle laces: Therese de Dillmont, The Complete Encyclopaedia of Needlework, Running Press reprint, Philadelphia, 1971 For bobbin laces: Bridget M Cook and Geraldine Stott, The Book of Bobbin Lace Stitches, A H & A W Reed, Sydney, 1980 The principal historical reference: Santina Levey, Lace a History, Victoria and Albert Museum and W H Maney, Leeds, 1983 In compiling the glossary reference was also made to Alexandra Stillwell’s Illustrated dictionary of lacemaking, Cassell, London 1996 General lace and lacemaking terms A border, flounce or edging is a length of lace with one shaped edge (headside) and one straight edge (footside). The headside shaping may be as insignificant as a straight or undulating line of picots, or as pronounced as deep ‘van Dyke’ scallops. ‘Border’ is used for laces to 100mm and ‘flounce’ for laces wider than 100 mm and these are the terms used in the documentation of the Powerhouse collection. The term ‘lace edging’ is often used elsewhere instead of border, for very narrow laces. An insertion is usually a length of lace with two straight edges (footsides) which are stitched directly onto the mounting fabric, the fabric then being cut away behind the lace. Ocasionally lace insertions are shaped (for example, square or triangular motifs for use on household linen) in which case they are entirely enclosed by a footside. See also ‘panel’ and ‘engrelure’ A lace panel is usually has finished edges, enclosing a specially designed motif. -
Attic Heirlooms
Attic Heirlooms Attic Heirlooms by Trish 2019 February Ornament Attic Heirlooms www.attic-heirlooms.com [email protected] Like us on our Attic Heirlooms Facebook page! This is free for individual use only for a limited time. No commercial use of the patterns are allowed without receiving prior permission. The pattern is a free download for you to print and use. It is only available free during the month it is offered. Kits can be ordered anytime at: www.attic-heirlooms.com The kit will contain all the fabric needed to make the ornament, paper backed fusible and any embellishing items for that month if applicable. French knot - Hold the needle in your right hand. With your left hand, wrap the thread around the needle 1-3 times, de- pending on the size of knot you want. Be sure needle points away from the fabric when you wrap the thread and wrap it Attic Heirlooms close to where the thread comes through the fabric. Insert the needle close to where it came out. Holding the knot in place, you can pull the needle to the wrong side of fabric. Lazy daisy stitch – Blanket stitch Hold thread down with Take an upright the thumb and insert stitch the thread 3 needle where it first came up with the came out. Bring point needle pointed out a short distance down, keeping the thread under away keeping the needle 2 on top of the thread. the needle and coming out Fasten the loop down on the line. 1 with a short stitch. Attic Heirlooms by Trish 2019 February Ornament Read all instructions before starting 1. -
Stitch Chart
Stitch Chart Memo • When any of the following stitches (reverse stitch patterns) are selected, pressing (Reverse/ Reinforcement stitch button) will sew reverse stitches. Stitch 110 stitches 00 02 05 No. 100 stitches 00 01 04 When any other stitch is selected, pressing (Reverse/Reinforcement stitch button) will sew reinforcement stitches. • The stitch pattern symbols indicate the following. 1 Left needle position a d e 2 b d e Middle (center) needle position c 3 Right needle position 4 Reverse stitch pattern 5 Reinforcement stitch pattern Note • The walking foot can only be used with straight or zigzag stitch patterns. Do not sew reverse stitches with the walking foot. • When using the twin needle, set the machine to the twin needle mode. For details, refer to the Operation Manual. *1 Twin needle can be used by attaching zigzag foot “J”. For details on using the twin needle, refer to the Operation Manual. No. Stitch width Stitch length Presser (mm (inch)) (mm (inch)) Stitch 110 100 Stitch name/Applications stitches stitches foot Auto. Auto. model model Manual Manual Straight stitch (Left) 0.0 (0) 2.5 (3/32) 00*1 00*1 J General sewing, gather, pintuck, etc. 0.0 - 7.0 0.2 - 5.0 (0 - 1/4) (1/64 - 3/16) Straight stitch (Left) 0.0 (0) 2.5 (3/32) 01*1 –JGeneral sewing, gather, pintuck, etc. 0.0 - 7.0 0.2 - 5.0 (0 - 1/4) (1/64 - 3/16) Straight stitch (Middle) 3.5 (1/8) 2.5 (3/32) 02*1 01*1 J General sewing, gather, pintuck, etc. -
Stitch Setting Chart
STITCH SETTING CHART STITCH SETTING CHART The following chart shows information for each utility stitch concerning applications, stitch lengths, stitch widths, and whether or not the twin needle mode can be used. Stitch width Stitch length Presser foot [mm (inch.)] [mm (inch.)] Twin Stitch Stitch name Applications needle Auto. Manual Auto. Manual Straight stitch General sewing, gather, pintuck, (Left) etc. Reverse stitch is sewn while 0.0 0.0 - 7.0 2.5 0.2 - 5.0 OK pressing “Reverse/ (0) (0 - 1/4) (3/32) (1/64 - 3/16) ( J ) Reinforcement Stitch” button. Straight stitch General sewing, gather, pintuck, (Left) etc. Reinforcement stitch is sewn 0.0 0.0 - 7.0 2.5 0.2 - 5.0 OK while pressing “Reverse/ (0) (0 - 1/4) (3/32) (1/64 - 3/16) ( J ) Reinforcement Stitch” button. Straight stitch General sewing, gather, pintuck, (Middle) etc. Reverse stitch is sewn while 3.5 0.0 - 7.0 2.5 0.2 - 5.0 OK pressing “Reverse/ (1/8) (0 - 1/4) (3/32) (1/64 - 3/16) ( J ) Reinforcement Stitch” button. Straight stitch General sewing, gather, pintuck, (Middle) etc. Reinforcement stitch is sewn 3.5 0.0 - 7.0 2.5 0.2 - 5.0 OK while pressing “Reverse/ (1/8) (0 - 1/4) (3/32) (1/64 - 3/16) ( J ) Reinforcement Stitch” button. Triple stretch General sewing for 0.0 0.0 - 7.0 2.5 1.5 - 4.0 OK stitch reinforcement and decorative (0) (0 - 1/4) (3/32) (1/16 - 3/16) ( J ) topstitching Stem stitch Reinforced stitching, sewing and 1.0 1.0 - 3.0 2.5 1.0 - 4.0 OK decorative applications (1/16) (1/16 - 1/8) (3/32) (1/16 - 3/16) ( J ) Decorative Decorative stitching, top 0.0 0.0 - 7.0 2.5 1.0 - 4.0 OK stitch stitching (0) (0 - 1/4) (3/32) (1/16 - 3/16) ( J ) Basting stitch Basting 0.0 0.0 - 7.0 20.0 5.0 - 30.0 NO (0) (0 - 1/4) (3/4) (3/16 - 1-3/16) Zigzag stitch For overcasting, mending. -
Stitch Recipes > Whimsical Stitches 1 Sewing Circles • Attach Circular Embroidery Attachment #83 to the Machine According to Instructions Included with It
ISSUE 13 The stitch numbers referenced in this article are listed below with the appropriate current model of BERNINA® machines. If using another model, look for the same or Bouquet Of similar stitch patterns on your machine. Basic Blossoms Buttons artista machines – Stitch 129 [Preprogrammed on 200, BY JILL DANKLEFSEN CPS* for other artista machines] virtuosa machines (150, 153, 155, 160) Found in CPS* aurora 440 – Stitch 83 Diamond Stars artista machines – Stitch 639 [Preprogrammed on 200, CPS* for other artista machines] virtuosa machines (150, 153, 155, 160) Found in CPS* aurora 440 – Stitch 138, aurora 430 – Stitch 109 Create fun stitch combinations, A Button Garden then accent the stitching with artista machines – Stitch 122 [Preprogrammed on 200, additional “findings” such as beads CPS* for other artista machines] and/or buttons. Button “findings” come in many different styles and virtuosa machines (150, 153, 155, 160) Found in CPS* types; the recipes shown here aurora 440 – Stitch 79, aurora 430 – Stitch 39 include buttons from Just Another activa 240 – Stitch 34, activa 230 PE – Stitch 37 Button Company. artista machines – Stitch 427 [Preprogrammed on 200, Use Button Sew-on Foot #18 to CPS* for other artista machines] attach the buttons. Note: These virtuosa machines (150, 153, 155, 160) Found in CPS* buttons do not have traditional aurora 440 – Stitch 113, aurora 430 – Stitch 87 spacing between the holes, so test the stitch width using the activa 240 – Stitch 63, activa 230 PE – Stitch 53 handwheel, then adjust artista machines