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Winter Mitten Making
1 Winter Mitten Making By: Kielyn & Dave Marrone Version 2.0, October 2015 http://lureofthenorth.com 2 Note 1- This booklet is part of a series of DIY booklets published by Lure of the North. For all other publications in this series, please see our website at lureofthenorth.com. Published instructional booklets can be found under "Info Hub" in the main navigation menu. Note 2 – Lure Mitten Making Kits: These instructions are intended to be accompanied by our Mitten Making Kit, which is available through the “Store” section of our website at: http://lureofthenorth.com/shop. Of course, you can also gather all materials yourself and simply use these instructions as a guide, modifying to suit your requirements. Note 3 - Distribution: Feel free to distribute these instructions to anyone you please, with the requirement that this package be distributed in its entirety with no modifications whatsoever. These instructions are also not to be used for any commercial purpose. Thank you! Note 4 – Feedback and Further Help: Feedback is welcomed to improve clarity in future editions. For even more assistance you might consider taking a mitten making workshop with us. These workshops are run throughout Ontario, and include hands-on instructions and all materials. Go to lureofthenorth.com/calendar for an up to date schedule. Our Philosophy: This booklet describes our understanding of a traditional craft – these skills and this knowledge has traditionally been handed down from person to person and now we are attempting to do the same. We are happy to have the opportunity to share this knowledge with you, however, if you use these instructions and find them helpful, please give credit where it is due. -
Schmetz Needle Guide
NEEDLE GUIDE Needle Anatomy Butt: The beveled end allows easy insertion in the needle bar. Shank: Household needles have a flat shank, while commercial and industrial needles have round, threaded, notched or other special shanks. Shanks allow perfect positioning of the needle in the sewing machine needle bar. Shoulder: The sloping area transitioning between the shank and blade. Schmetz color codes appear on the shoulder. Blade: Needle size is determined by the blade diameter (i.e., size 75 is .75mm) Groove: The groove cradles and guides thread to the eye. The length and size of the groove vary according to needle type. Scarf: The indentation above the eye that allows the bobbin hook to smoothly grab the thread under the throat plate to create a stitch. The shape and size of the scarf vary according to needle type. Eye: The hole through which thread passes. The shape and size of the eye vary according to needle type. Point and Tip: Length, shape and size vary according to needle types. Change Your Needle 130/705 H Damaged or worn needles result in: Household sewing machines require a needle with a flattened shank. All needles in this system have a flattened shank for perfect needle • Broken or shredded threads positioning in the needle bar in relation to the hook. • Skipped stitches • Puckered fabrics • Damaged fabrics Schmetz Works with All Sewing Machines! • Uneven threads Schmetz needles work with all new, current and older household sewing machines! Replace Your Needle It’s the easiest way to How to Read a Needle Package improve your stitch quality. -
Sulphur Butterfly Crochet Pattern
Sulphur Butterfly Crochet Pattern MATERIALS DK-weight (#3) yarn in yellow/white and tan/grey/brown 3.5mm (E) crochet hook Tapestry needle Scissors GLOSSARY OF TERMS & ABBREVIATIONS chain stitch (ch): To make, draw yarn through the active loop on the hook. fasten off: cut the yarn 3 to 4 inches from the last stitch and draw the end through the active loop. Pull tightly to secure. double crochet stitch (dc): To make, yarn over, insert hook into indicated stitch, draw up a loop, (there will be three loops on the hook) yarn over and draw through two loops, yarn over and draw through two loops again. double-treble crochet stitch (dtc): To make, yarn over three times, insert hook in indicated stitch, draw up a loop (there will be 5 loops on the hook), yarn over and draw through 2 loops four times. front loop only (FLO): Indicates the location of where to place a stitch. Out of the two loops in the top of a stitch, only work under the one which is closest to the crocheter. half-double crochet stitch (hdc): To make, yarn over, insert hook into indicated stitch, draw up a loop, (there should be three loops on the hook) yarn over and draw through all three loops. long single crochet (spike stitch): To make, insert hook into the indicated location in a previous row, draw up a long loop (back up to the current row), yarn over and draw through both loops. single crochet stitch (sc): To make, insert your hook into the indicated stitch, draw up a loop, yarn over and draw through both loops. -
4-H Crocheting Project Member Guide
4-H Crocheting Project Member Guide Crocheting is one of the oldest needlework arts. To crochet means to form yarn or thread into a fabric using a hook. Its name comes from the French word croche, meaning “hook.” The crochet hook was one of many tools first used to make delicate lace. As time went on, more stitches and designs came into being, and crocheting became a separate art. Crocheting appeals to many people because it can be used to make a variety of creations, such as scarves, caps, vests, sweaters, purses, belts, lace, doilies, tablecloths, afghans, pillow covers, and bedspreads. In the 4-H Crocheting Project, you can learn to: • Crochet articles for yourself and others • Select, use, and care for crocheting tools • Work and share with others in your club • Keep simple records of your project and activities The 4-H Crocheting project is divided into six phases. Skills to learn and suggested articles to make are on page 2. Your club leader will teach you how to do basic crochet stitches and help you find patterns to use as you learn. When you reach the advanced phases, you’ll need to choose patterns from a variety of pattern books, needlework books, and magazines. You can find these at newsstands, notions counters, fabric stores, or specialty shops that sell yarn and thread. If you want to show others what you learn in the Crocheting project, check with your leader about exhibiting articles at fairs or other community events. If you make an article to wear, you might like to model in your county 4-H fashion revue. -
Stitch Guide by Johanna Lindahl
1 Stitch Guide By Johanna Lindahl In this stitch guide all the uncommon stitches used in my patterns are described. Note that sometimes stitches are made in a different way than in this guide and in that case that specific stitch is described in the pattern. Content, US terms: • Picot • Popcorn (pop) • Puff • Front post slip stitch (FPss) • Front post single crochet (FPsc) • Double crochet 2 together (dc2tog) • Double crochet 3 together (dc3tog) • Front post double crochet (FPdc) • Front post treble (FPtr) • Front post trebles 2 together (FPtr2tog) • Back post slip stitch (BPss) • Back post single crochet (BPsc) • Back post half double crochet (BPhdc) • Back post double crochet (BPdc) • Back post treble (BPtr) • Spike single crochet • Standing single crochet • Standing double crochet • Invisible join Ravelry Store: Johanna Lindahl Designs Blogg: mijocrochet.se | Facebook: Mijo Crochet | Instagram: @mijocrochet Mijo Crochet 2018. Picot 2 Chain one (or more). Then you make a slip stitch through the front loop and the front vertical loop in the single crochet (or dc) just made. Popcorn (pop) Make 4 double crochet in the specified stitch. Drop the loop from your hook and then insert your hook in the first double crochet you made. Grab the dropped loop and pull it through the stitch. Ravelry Store: Johanna Lindahl Designs Blogg: mijocrochet.se | Facebook: Mijo Crochet | Instagram: @mijocrochet Mijo Crochet 2018. Puff 3 Yo, insert the hook into the specified stitch. Pull the yarn through the stitch. [Yo and insert the hook into the same stitch and yo again. Pull the yarn through the stitch] 3 more times. -
Mending As Practice and Expression Pocosin Arts Online - August 2021 Material Suggestions
Mending as Practice and Expression Pocosin Arts Online - August 2021 Material Suggestions I want this experience to ft with what you have on hand and what you want to learn! I will link to sources of some supplies I like below, but there is no need to purchase anything unless you want to and think you will use it. You can also check the links to compare supplies to those you may already have. And of course you can get supplies anywhere you like. The most important thing you will need is some fabric scraps or worn-out textles to practce mending on (not your absolute favorite thing to start with). There are two broad categories of fabrics, based on how they are made; woven (like jeans, dress shirts, and sheets) and knited (like sweaters, socks, and T-shirts). We will talk a lot more about these in class. Each type lends itself to somewhat diferent tools and techniques. If you can, I encourage you to fnd a few scraps of each type to practce on, ideally in fabrics that are similar to the items you want to mend. These will also be a good source of material to cut patches from. I will be in touch before our class starts to fnd out about the projects you want to work on. For now, here are some general suggestons of materials and tools you may want to have on hand. In the meantme, feel free to contact me with any questons! [email protected] Threads You may want to use anything from sewing thread to wool yarn in your mending, depending on what you want to fx. -
Multifunctional Blanket Stitch By: Magdamagda
Multifunctional Blanket Stitch By: magdamagda http://www.burdastyle.com/techniques/multifunctional-blanket-stitch What better time for hand sewing revelations than now when my sewing machine is in service? sigh I have been thinking about this for some time – one type of hand stitch that comes in handy in so many situations! I’ll point out the ones I thought about, new ideas are welcome! Known as the “blanket stitch” it can back up your sewing machine in some situations or even go where no sewing machine has gone before!!!! First this is how it’s done: I prefer to stitch right to left. Bring the thread to front at desired distance from the edge ( about 2 mm for buttonholes, 4-5 mm for serging). Take the thread over the edge of the cloth and pull the needle back to front through the same point. Make a loop around this thread segment at the cloth edge level. At some distance from the first “entry point” (3-4 mm for serging) and at the same distance from the edge thrust the needle from front to back and pull the needle through the loop formed by the remaining thread. You can help yourself by keeping the thread over the index finger of the left hand while doing so. Repeat, repeat, repeat..:) Tip: If you are serging, make sure not to pull the thread too much and cause the fabric to pluck. If you’re working on a button hole or doing some embroidery work pull the thread just right so that the thread remains straight: not too loose, not too tight:) Tip-tip:) : If the thread gets twisted on itself , you can straighten it out by sliding the needle close to the fabric and running the thread through your fingers from the fixed end towards the loose end (a few times) Note: Whatever you plan to use this stitch for, you’ll find it ideal when dealing with curved lines! A video to catch the basic move: Step 1 — [serging] Multifunctional Blanket Stitch 1 Use it for: 1) Serging (overcasting the raw edges of a fabric to prevent unraveling).. -
How to Slip Knot & Chain Stitch
How to Slip Knot & Chain Stitch Appearance in pattern - ch Crochet usually begins with a series of chain stitches called a beginning or foundation chain. A slip knot is the first step in most crochet projects. We will begin by making a slip knot on the crochet hook about 6 inches from the free end of the yarn. You will first start by creating a loop with the yarn. Be sure that the free end of the yarn is dangling behind your loop (see illustration 3). Insert the crochet hook through the center of the loop and hook the free end (see illustration 4). Pull this through and up onto the working area of the crochet hook (see illustration 5). Pull the free yarn end to tighten the loop (see illustration 6). The loop on the crochet hook should be firm, but loose enough to slide back and forth easily on the hook. Be sure you still have about a 6-inch yarn end. Once you have the yarn wrapped, hold the base of the slip knot with the thumb and index finger of your left hand. Step 2: Bring the yarn over the crochet hook from back to front and hook it (see illustration 8). Draw hooked yarn through the loop of the slip knot on the hook and up onto the working area of the crochet hook (see arrow on illustration 9); you have now made one chain stitch (see illustration 10). Step 3: Again, hold the base of the slip knot and bring the yarn over the crochet hook from back to front (see illustration 11). -
Faculty Development Grant Report Sumi Lee Professor of Fashion
Faculty Development Grant Report Sumi Lee Professor of Fashion Design Faculty Development Grant Report Submitted Sep.11th, 2017 Sumi Lee Professor of Fashion Design Project Description: In Fall 2016, I received a Faculty Development Grant to fund a textile art workshop titled “Places, Spaces and Traces” in Les Carroz, France. This workshop focused on creating artistic textile surfaces, while experimenting with found materials, different media, novel techniques, mark-making (i.e., use of stitch as a “line”), and paint methods on fabric (e.g., sun prints with silk dyes). These different approaches to creating textiles are often described as “painting with cloth.” This workshop was instructed by a renowned textile artist from the U.K., Cas Holmes, author of several books and articles including “The Found Object in Textile Art” and “Stitch Stories”. She utilizes a unique “hands-on” approach that showcases her experimental use of found materials and inventive application of textile and mixed media procedures. Significant Activities: According to Cas Holmes, the most important aspect of “creating art” is the process of developing one’s own approach to subject matter in a meaningful way. Specifically, Holmes showed how she makes connections to natural environments in developing her narratives and her personal vision as a textile artist. #1. Stitch- Sketching: Drawing and recording daily observation, and the realization of those ideas in textile is a process. Sketchbook by Cas Holms Sketchbook by Sumi Lee The colors, textures, and changing light over the meadows, fields and landscape can provide a stimulus for the narrative, formal, or abstract quality in textile works. -
Simple Crocheted Blanket Materials • Hook – Size G • Yarn – Acrylic Baby
Simple Crocheted Blanket Materials Hook – Size G Yarn – Acrylic Baby Yarn (NO MOHAIR) 140 Stitches for 36”‐38”; 3‐ply – 120 stitches (approx.); 4 –ply – 100 stitches (approx.) Instructions ROW 1 – Chain enough stitches to make string 36‐38” ROW 2 – Double crochet in each chain, starting in 3rd stitch; Chain 3 turn ROW 3 to END – Starting in 2nd DC; continue back and forth until blanket is square. FINISH Tie off end; Weave end of thread into blanket. NO FRINGE PLEASE Option– Single crochet around 4 sides (making 3 S.C. in corner stitch) as a border. Marge’s “Very Easy” Crochet Baby Blanket Materials Baby or Sport Yarn (approximately 6 skeins – 3 ply) G Hook Instructions Row 1 – Chain 140 stitches (36”‐38”) or 100 stitches with 4‐ply Row 2 – DC (Double Crochet) in 4th stitch from end, DC across; at end Ch. 3 Row 3 – DC in 1st DC, continue across row, Ch. 3 at end; Repeat Row 3 until blanket is square Last Row = Tie off end. Weave 2‐3” of yarn into blanket to hide end. Option – Can do a crochet edge around just as a finish. Bev's Stretchy Knit Baby Cap copyright 2001, 2010 Beverly A Qualheim This cap can be made for a boy or girl preemie, and fits from 2- 3 lbs- (4-5 lb) (7-8 lb) babies . It is super fast to knit up and will stretch to fit. 1 oz. of sport or baby yarn - not fingering Size 9 knitting needles (size 5 Canadian and English -5.5 mm) Loosely cast on 36 (44) (50) sts. -
Sewing Technique: Lock Stitch (Hem 1”)
Sewing Technique: Lock Stitch (Hem 1”) The lock stitch is a hand stitch used for hemming purposes. It gives a secure hold with limited view of the thread on the outer side of the garment. STEP 1: Stay stitch ¼-inch from the fabric edge. (A stay stitch is a single line that is used for guidance and to keep the fabric from fraying. It is a normal stitch length and backstitching is a personal preference.) STEP 2: Fold the hem edge back 1-inch. Press fold in order to make a crease in the fabric. Press fabric 1 again ¼-inch. This press will follow the stay stitch seam. STEP 3: Secure thread to the folded edge of fabric on stay stitch line in order to hide the knot. STEP 4: Moving left, make a small stitch (1/2 to ¾ inch). The stitch should first go through the ¼-inch fold; then a small stitch is made that only goes through the outside layer of the garment. Pull thread gently back through to the inside of the garment. Avoid pulling the thread tight as the needle passes back through the loop created from the stitch. 5 3 5 STEP 6: To tighten lock stitch, pull thread to the left. STEP 7: Continue moving left and repeating step 5 until seam is complete. STEP 8: Once finished, secure thread to prevent it from unraveling. NOTE: The lock stitch can be used in place of a catch stitch. 7 6 Industry Standards for a Well-Constructed Hem: • Hem is level • Hem lies flat • No puckers, twists, or extra bulk • Hand stitching is not visible on correct side of garment • Hand stitches are evenly spaced • Topstitching is even and parallel to hemline References: Readers Digest. -
Beginner Basics Illustrated Stitches Updated Techniques
beginner basics illustrated stitches 8 NEW updated techniques PROJECTS Crochet Made Easy Using this Book Crochet Made Easy is written for beginners, and features easy-to- understand diagrams and step-by-step instructions to illustrate crochet stitches and techniques. When you have mastered the basic techniques, try the projects included at the back of this book—they're designed especially for beginners! Products All of the projects in this book were designed and made with products from Coats & Clark—Red Heart yarns and Aunt Lydia's threads. General information is included about yarn, thread and crochet hooks. We recommend reading through the book to become familiar with terminology before picking up your hook and yarn. When you're ready, use a Medium Worsted Weight yarn (size 4 on chart at right) and a 5 mm (US-H-8) or 5.5 mm (US-I-9) hook to learn to crochet. Diagrams and Instructions Diagrams are shown for right-handers. Because of space limitations, it is not possible to show left-handed diagrams. If you are a left-hander and are hav- ing trouble understanding the diagrams, try tracing the diagrams and then turning the tracing paper over and looking at the reversed image. When read- ing instructions, substitute "left" for "right" and "right" for "left" where it appears. The abbreviation and its accompanying symbol are shown with the instruc- tions for each stitch. Visit www.redheart.com for more information and inspiration! We also recommend these sites. For additional patterns: www.coatsandclark.com For magazine information: www.crochettoday.com For television show information: www.knitandcrochettoday.com Distributed in the USA by Coats & Clark, Greer SC 29650 Learn to Crochet Yarn Yarns are available in a variety of weights.