Solaris Sewing Instruction and Reference Guide
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HAND SEWING NEEDLES Quality Makes the Difference
No. 14 HAND SEWING NEEDLES Quality makes the difference. Hand sewing needles Hand sewing needles Embroidery needles Embroidery needles Sewing, embroidery and darning needles. • Sharps • Self-threading needles • Chenille • Tapestry Stitch by stitch – perfect and precise. • Betweens • Jersey needles • Crewel • Smyrna • Millinery needles Centuries of experience in metal processing, combined with Hand sewing needles: For fine embroidery we have a special needle known The higher the needle number, the finer and shorter the latest production technology available today, make Prym as a crewel needle. These slender needles with a the needle. Betweens have the same wire diameter somewhat larger eye can take one or more threads sewing, embroidery and darning needles perfect precision as the respective no. in sharps but they are approx. of stranded cotton, e.g. for white linen embroidery. Tapestry needles (with blunt point) are most tools. The needle range from Prym sets international quality 7 mm (1/4”) shorter. Both needle types are available • burr-free and finger friendly head As they correspond in length and gauge with the sharps suitable for counted thread embroidery on coarse- in packs in single sizes as well as in assorted sizes. standards – also in the variety of the assortment. Here, specialists needles, and are also easier to thread, they are often weave or even-weave fabrics. For closely woven will find their special needles. • silver or gold smooth eye facilitates used as a sewing needle. fabrics we recommend the use of sharp-pointed chenille needles. threading and avoids thread damage Sharps are our standard Both needles have large eyes which are suitable sewing needles, used to for thicker thread or wool. -
Winter Mitten Making
1 Winter Mitten Making By: Kielyn & Dave Marrone Version 2.0, October 2015 http://lureofthenorth.com 2 Note 1- This booklet is part of a series of DIY booklets published by Lure of the North. For all other publications in this series, please see our website at lureofthenorth.com. Published instructional booklets can be found under "Info Hub" in the main navigation menu. Note 2 – Lure Mitten Making Kits: These instructions are intended to be accompanied by our Mitten Making Kit, which is available through the “Store” section of our website at: http://lureofthenorth.com/shop. Of course, you can also gather all materials yourself and simply use these instructions as a guide, modifying to suit your requirements. Note 3 - Distribution: Feel free to distribute these instructions to anyone you please, with the requirement that this package be distributed in its entirety with no modifications whatsoever. These instructions are also not to be used for any commercial purpose. Thank you! Note 4 – Feedback and Further Help: Feedback is welcomed to improve clarity in future editions. For even more assistance you might consider taking a mitten making workshop with us. These workshops are run throughout Ontario, and include hands-on instructions and all materials. Go to lureofthenorth.com/calendar for an up to date schedule. Our Philosophy: This booklet describes our understanding of a traditional craft – these skills and this knowledge has traditionally been handed down from person to person and now we are attempting to do the same. We are happy to have the opportunity to share this knowledge with you, however, if you use these instructions and find them helpful, please give credit where it is due. -
Sewing Machine Decorative Stitches
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Schmetz Needle Guide
NEEDLE GUIDE Needle Anatomy Butt: The beveled end allows easy insertion in the needle bar. Shank: Household needles have a flat shank, while commercial and industrial needles have round, threaded, notched or other special shanks. Shanks allow perfect positioning of the needle in the sewing machine needle bar. Shoulder: The sloping area transitioning between the shank and blade. Schmetz color codes appear on the shoulder. Blade: Needle size is determined by the blade diameter (i.e., size 75 is .75mm) Groove: The groove cradles and guides thread to the eye. The length and size of the groove vary according to needle type. Scarf: The indentation above the eye that allows the bobbin hook to smoothly grab the thread under the throat plate to create a stitch. The shape and size of the scarf vary according to needle type. Eye: The hole through which thread passes. The shape and size of the eye vary according to needle type. Point and Tip: Length, shape and size vary according to needle types. Change Your Needle 130/705 H Damaged or worn needles result in: Household sewing machines require a needle with a flattened shank. All needles in this system have a flattened shank for perfect needle • Broken or shredded threads positioning in the needle bar in relation to the hook. • Skipped stitches • Puckered fabrics • Damaged fabrics Schmetz Works with All Sewing Machines! • Uneven threads Schmetz needles work with all new, current and older household sewing machines! Replace Your Needle It’s the easiest way to How to Read a Needle Package improve your stitch quality. -
Islander Sewing Systems: Tuesdays at Two with Janet Pray and Jessica
Islander Sewing Systems: Tuesdays at Two With Janet Pray and Jessica Johnson Index Through June 2019 Subject Type Topics Video Date Alterations Charge at least $10 to hem a pair of pants October 2, 2018 Alterations Tip If asked to hem pants or sew on a button, show the person who asked how October 2, 2018 Alterations Learn how to do alterations for any figure "flaws" and make it a priority for April 9, 2019 one's sewing education Alterations One can just say no to requests for alterations. Give the person who asks for October 2, 2018 alterations a high price; the individual will accept or say no. If one accepts alterations, do it under your conditions Batting Tip Use two layers of Insulbrite or similar batting with a silver backing, not one December 18, 2018 layer. Temporarily adher fabric to back, quilt top, and then put on the binding Bias Tape Maker Demo Make bias tape strip twice as wide as needed using iron and Simplicity Bias July 10, 2018 Tape Maker Books & DVDs Connie Crawford's Patternmaking Made Easy is a textbook, but filled with 3/27/18 & 11/13/2018 good information Books & DVDs Easy Zipper class is available online or on DVD and includes five different 4/24/18 & 8/28/2018 zipper techniques. The class is also on SewBetter.com Books & DVDs Fitting and Pattern Alteration by Elizabeth Leichty and Judith Rasband is an 5/15/2018 & 5/30/18 excellent resource, or take a class from Lorraine Henry Books & DVDs Gail Yellen's It's All About Embelishments is a good resource for decorative April 24, 2018 serger techniques. -
Sewing Mode Sewing Mode in Sewing Mode View You Can Select Stitches, Adjust and Sew Them
Sewing mode Sewing mode In sewing mode view you can select stitches, adjust and sew them. You can also go to Stitch Creator and to sequencing to create your own stitches and sequences. Your selected stitch will be shown in full scale in the stitch fi eld. The recommendations and machine settings will be shown at the top. Sewing mode - overview 1 2 1. Sewing recommendations 3 2. Machine settings 3. Stitch selection area 5 4 4. Scroll bar (Scroll through stitch categories) 5. Selected stitch number 6. Stitch fi eld 7. Mirroring side to side 8. Mirroring end to end 9. Sequence start position 10. Zoom to all 11. Stitch width 12. Width/position toggle 13. Stitch length 10 16a 16b 16c 14. Stitch density 6 16 15. Needle thread tension 17a 17b 17c 16. Save options 17 a) Save personal default stitch b) Save to Personal menu 11 13 14 15 18 c) Save to Personal fi le Sewing mode 9 17. Tie-off options 19 a) Tie-off beginning 12 b) Tie-off end 78 20 c) Thread snips 18. Speed control 19. Sewing programs 20. Balance 21. Repeat buttonhole 22 23 22. Stitch positioning 23. Buttonhole slit length 24. Button stitch repetition Note: All symbols and options will not be 21 shown at the same time. 24 4:2 Select a stitch 3 To select a stitch, touch the actual stitch in the stitch selection area (3). You can scroll through 4 the list of stitches, using the scroll bar on the right hand side. The number of the actual subcategory is shown below the scroll bar (4). -
Multifunctional Blanket Stitch By: Magdamagda
Multifunctional Blanket Stitch By: magdamagda http://www.burdastyle.com/techniques/multifunctional-blanket-stitch What better time for hand sewing revelations than now when my sewing machine is in service? sigh I have been thinking about this for some time – one type of hand stitch that comes in handy in so many situations! I’ll point out the ones I thought about, new ideas are welcome! Known as the “blanket stitch” it can back up your sewing machine in some situations or even go where no sewing machine has gone before!!!! First this is how it’s done: I prefer to stitch right to left. Bring the thread to front at desired distance from the edge ( about 2 mm for buttonholes, 4-5 mm for serging). Take the thread over the edge of the cloth and pull the needle back to front through the same point. Make a loop around this thread segment at the cloth edge level. At some distance from the first “entry point” (3-4 mm for serging) and at the same distance from the edge thrust the needle from front to back and pull the needle through the loop formed by the remaining thread. You can help yourself by keeping the thread over the index finger of the left hand while doing so. Repeat, repeat, repeat..:) Tip: If you are serging, make sure not to pull the thread too much and cause the fabric to pluck. If you’re working on a button hole or doing some embroidery work pull the thread just right so that the thread remains straight: not too loose, not too tight:) Tip-tip:) : If the thread gets twisted on itself , you can straighten it out by sliding the needle close to the fabric and running the thread through your fingers from the fixed end towards the loose end (a few times) Note: Whatever you plan to use this stitch for, you’ll find it ideal when dealing with curved lines! A video to catch the basic move: Step 1 — [serging] Multifunctional Blanket Stitch 1 Use it for: 1) Serging (overcasting the raw edges of a fabric to prevent unraveling).. -
Bobbinwork Basics by Jill Danklefsen
SPECIAL CLASSROOM EDITION BOBBINWORK BASICS BY JILL DANKLEFSEN obbinwork is a technique that places heavy decorative 4. The type of stitch chosen as well as the type of “bobbin yarn” Bthreads on the surface of the fabric, sewn as machine-fed selected will dictate how loose the tension needs to be adjusted decorative stitches or as freemotion stitches. Typically, these on the bobbin case. threads, yarns, and cords are too large to fit through the eye of the sewing machine needle. So, in order to achieve a “stitched 5. Remember the rule of tension adjustment --“Righty, Tighty -- look”, you sew with the heavy decorative thread wound onto a Lefty, Loosey” bobbin and placed in the bobbin case of the machine. 6. Use a “construction quality” thread on the “topside” of your machine, as the needle tension will usually be increased. Think of the top thread as literally pulling the “bobbin yarn” into place to form the stitch pattern. 7. Bobbins can be wound by hand or by machine. Whenever possible, wind the bobbin using the bobbin winder mechanism on the machine. This will properly tension the “bobbin yarn” for a better stitch quality. 8. Bobbinwork can be sewn with the Feed dogs up or down. If stitching freemotion, a layer of additional stabilizer or the use of a machine embroidery hoop may be necessary. 9. Select the proper presser foot for the particular bobbinwork YARNS AND THREADS SUITABLE FOR BOBBINWORK technique being sewn. When working with the heavier “bobbin yarns”, the stitches produced will be thicker. Consider selecting • Yarns (thinner types, often a foot with a large indentation underneath it, such as Foot used for knitting machines) #20/#20C.This foot will ride over the stitching much better. -
Placket Construction Options
Placket Construction Options 1 Type1: Two Separate Bound Edges on a rectangular stitching box The key to this structure is that the bindings are initially stitched only to the seam allowances on each side, and NOT stitched across the end, of the clipped box, which means that they, and the clipped triangle at the bottom, remain loose and can be arranged before the nal nishing to go on either side of the fabric, as well as either over or under the other, after joining them at the sides. The widths and lengths of the bindings and the space between the sides of the clipped box determine all the other options available in this most exible of all the placket types I know of. Variation 1: Both bindings t inside the stitching box If you cut the bindings so the nished, folded widths of both are equal to or smaller than the space between the initial stitching lines, as shown above, you can arrange both ends at the clipped corners to all go on one side of the fabric (right or wrong side), along with the clipped triangle on the garment. You’ll get the best results if the underlapping binding is slightly smaller than the overlapping one. This can be man- aged by taking slightly deeper seam allowances when you join this piece, so they can initially be cut from the same strip. Or, you can place one end on each side with the Both ends on RS One end on RS, Both ends on WS triangle sandwiched in between. -
Stitches and Seam Techniques
Stitches and Seam Techniques Seen on Dark Age / Medieval Garments in Various Museum Collections The following notes have been gathered while attempting to learn stitches and construction techniques in use during the Dark Ages / Medieval period. The following is in no way a complete report, but only an indication of some techniques observed on extant Dark Ages / Medieval garments. Hopefully, others who are researching “actual” garments of the period in question will also report on their findings, so that comparisons can be made and a better total understanding achieved. Jennifer Baker –New Varangian Guard – Hodegon Branch – 2009 Contents VIKING AND SAXON STITCHES 1. RUNNING STITCH 2. OVERSEWING 3. HERRINGBONE 4. BLANKET STITCH SEAMS 1. SEAMS 2. BUTTED SEAMS 3. STAND-UP SEAM 4. SEAMS SPREAD OPEN AFTER JOIN IS MADE 5. “LAPPED” FELL SEAM 6. FELL SEAM WORKED ON WRONG SIDE OF GARMENT FINISHES ON RAW EDGES OF SEAMS SEWING ON TABLET WOVEN BRAID HEMS OTHER STITCHES FOUND IN ARCHEOLOGICAL FINDS REFERENCES 1 Stitches and Seam Techniques VIKING AND SAXON STITCHES There are only four basic stitches to master: 1. RUNNING STITCH , 2. OVERSEWING, ALSO KNOWN AS OVERCAST STITCH OR WHIP STITCH 3. HERRINGBONE , ALSO KNOWN AS CATCH STITCH 4. AND BLANKET STITCH. ALSO KNOWN AS BUTTONHOLE STITCH Running stitch is probably the easiest to start with followed by oversewing. With these two stitches you can make clothing. The other two are for decorative edging. These directions are for a right handed person, if you are left handed remember to reverse all directions. 2 Stitches and Seam Techniques RUNNING STITCH A running stitch is done through one or more layers of fabric (but normally two or more), with the needle going down and up, down and up, in an essentially straight line. -
Powerhouse Museum Lace Collection: Glossary of Terms Used in the Documentation – Blue Files and Collection Notebooks
Book Appendix Glossary 12-02 Powerhouse Museum Lace Collection: Glossary of terms used in the documentation – Blue files and collection notebooks. Rosemary Shepherd: 1983 to 2003 The following references were used in the documentation. For needle laces: Therese de Dillmont, The Complete Encyclopaedia of Needlework, Running Press reprint, Philadelphia, 1971 For bobbin laces: Bridget M Cook and Geraldine Stott, The Book of Bobbin Lace Stitches, A H & A W Reed, Sydney, 1980 The principal historical reference: Santina Levey, Lace a History, Victoria and Albert Museum and W H Maney, Leeds, 1983 In compiling the glossary reference was also made to Alexandra Stillwell’s Illustrated dictionary of lacemaking, Cassell, London 1996 General lace and lacemaking terms A border, flounce or edging is a length of lace with one shaped edge (headside) and one straight edge (footside). The headside shaping may be as insignificant as a straight or undulating line of picots, or as pronounced as deep ‘van Dyke’ scallops. ‘Border’ is used for laces to 100mm and ‘flounce’ for laces wider than 100 mm and these are the terms used in the documentation of the Powerhouse collection. The term ‘lace edging’ is often used elsewhere instead of border, for very narrow laces. An insertion is usually a length of lace with two straight edges (footsides) which are stitched directly onto the mounting fabric, the fabric then being cut away behind the lace. Ocasionally lace insertions are shaped (for example, square or triangular motifs for use on household linen) in which case they are entirely enclosed by a footside. See also ‘panel’ and ‘engrelure’ A lace panel is usually has finished edges, enclosing a specially designed motif. -
Autumn, 2007 $P5a.G0e0 1
HILLCREEK FIBER NEWS Autumn, 2007 $P5a.g0e0 1 Carol Leigh’s Specialties HILLCREEK FIBER STUDIO Established 1982 Established 1986 Specializing in Custom Handwoven Specializing in Workshops Textiles, Nature-Dyed Fibers, in Nature-dyeing, Spinning, Handspun Yarns Knitting, and Weaving, and in using natural fibers and dyes related tools, supplies and books Carol Leigh’s Bed & Breakfast and Home of the Airport Shuttle Service from Spriggs 5 ' & 7 ’ A d j u s t a b l e St Louis & Kansas City Triangle, Square, & Rectangle HILLCREEK FIBER STUDIO available for students Frame Looms Autumn 2007, Vol XXV, No 2 Event Calendar for 2007-2008 Subscription $8.00/year for two issues Autumn Greetings, Fiber Friends! Welcome to Fall and some cooling temps! This summer’s record-breaking heat and way below normal rainfall has taken its toll on plants and energy. News-breaking announcements! There have been some major developments on the Hillcreek Fiber front. As of July 1, 2007, Hillcreek Yarn Shoppe, LLC, the knitting part of our business, has become a separate entity. Daughter Rebecca has partnered with Joan Ditmore who has purchased from us the knitting part of the business, only. Denny and I will continue Hillcreek Fiber Studio, the weaving, spinning and natural dyeing part of the business, now in its 25th year. The Yarn Shoppe will be sending out its own announcements, mostly by e-mail, so if you’d like to receive communications from them on upcoming classes, new products, and specials, let them know. Check out page 7 of this issue of Hillcreek Fiber News for further info.