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Home , Blanket stitch, Buttonhole stitch

Couture Corner

Blanket Stitches BLANKET STITCHES AND STITCHES ARE OFTEN CONFUSED, BUT THEY CAN BE USED FOR MANY OF THE SAME APPLICATIONS.

BY CLAIRE SHAEFFER

Above from left: Blanket , , Edge Stitch.,

For many applications, blanket stitches Blanket stitches under the point from right to left— are better since they are flatter and less 1. To make blanket stitches, begin with counter clockwise. conspicuous than buttonhole stitches. the fabric right side up. 5. Pull the straight up until it is The one exception is the thread 2. Anchor the thread inconspicuously taut to set the knot on top of the fabric. buttonhole which is enhanced by well- or with a waste knot. 6. When making on a made buttonhole stitches. The blanket 3. Insert the needle into the fabric from fabric that ravels, take a bigger stitch so stitch is made with a single purl or knot the right side, then bring the needle the buttonhole won’t fall off the fabric; while the buttonhole stitch is made out at the edge of the fabric on top of and set the knot inside the opening with two knots. The buttonhole stitch the thread. so the buttonhole won’t gap when is bulkier and will wear better. This is 4. Pull the thread taut but not tight unbuttoned. particularly important for menswear. to make a purl at the edge. The purl is really just a loop. Edge stitching Here are the basics for making blanket 5. Make the next stitch below or to the Blanket stitches can be utilitarian or and buttonhole stitches. Practice on left of the first stitch. decorative. They can be made on a some scrap fabric so you can see how edge, a fold, or hemmed edge. They can they differ. Buttonhole stitches be worked horizontally or vertically 1. To make buttonhole stitches, begin over the edge. Couture Hint with the fabric right side up. 1. Use the directions for making When using regular thread, wax the 2. Anchor the thread. blanket stitches. thread, and place it between two pieces 3. Insert the needle from the wrong 2. Continue until the edge is finished. of paper towels. Press to melt the wax side. 3. Fasten the thread inconspicuously on into the fibers. The wax will strengthen 4. Wrap the thread around the point the wrong side. the thread and reduce twisting and and pull the needle through. The curling. When using a decorative thread, thread always wraps in the direction Thread bars make a sample before waxing all the you are going. If you are making the Blanket stitches are frequently used to thread. Waxing may dull the color or stitches from right to left, hold the two make thread bars. These bars are used shine. threads near the needle and wrap them to hold and tucks in place,

18 SEW TODAY October 2019 Above: Chanel jacket, circa late 70s French Tacks are often used to hold collar ends or flaps in place inconspicuously. thread eyes to use with hooks, and at French tacks stems all stressed points such as the top of French tacks are short bars which There are many methods for creating pleats and slits and the bottom of zips. hold flaps, collars, and linings in place. button stems, but blanket stitches are They are made like thread bars, but easy and they provide some stiffness so Couture Hint: instead of being made on top of the the button doesn’t flop. When It’s tempting to use a double thread fabric, the French begins on one on a man’s jacket, buttonholes when making thread bars, but you will section and connects to another. They stitches are often better since it is be happier with the results when you are often used to hold collar ends or sturdier and the buttons are used more use a single thread. flaps in place inconspicuously. [1. These often than on a lady’s jacket. directions for a French tack on a collar 1. Wax and press the thread. can be used for French tacks in other 1. Anchor the thread inconspicuously 2. To make a thread bar, anchor the locations. or use a waste knot. thread inconspicuously or with a waste 2. Anchor the thread inconspicuously 2. Make a thread bar from the garment knot. on one garment section. to the button that is slightly longer 3. Make a short bar with three stitches 3. Take a small stitch near the end of than the thickness of the fabric. Usually usually about ¼” long. the collar, leaving about ¼” of thread 4 strands for a button with two eyes 4. Insert the needle under the bar and between the jacket front and collar. and 3 strands in each pair of eyes for a over the thread. 4. Take the next stitch on the front , button with four eyes. 5. Pull the thread taut to make a knot. leaving ¼” of thread between them. 3. Work the stitches over the threads 6. Make the next stitch and pull the 5. Repeat until there are 3 strands of beginning at the top of the button stem thread taut so it is close to the first one. thread on the short bar. so you will end at the fabric. 7. Continue until you reach the end of 6. Make blanket stitches over the bar 4. Fasten the thread inconspicuously on the bar. from the jacket to the collar. the fabric. 8. Fasten the thread. 7. Fasten the thread inconspicuously on the collar.

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