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Issue No. 256 Friday, July 13 - Thursday, July 26, 2018 Even when the Democrats longas continue to likely is This also are negotiations Drawn-out Surely the situation is urgent Many of us who have experi - We feel in-the-know because bia has shown us that (a.) no single no (a.) that us shown has bia party or coalition will ever gain the governa - form to required majority negotiations political (b.) and ment, will never be quickly concluded. achieved their surprising result at last month’s general election, quickly it became clear that the - re sult was actually more-or-less the result election other every as same in Serbia, i.e. inconclusive. as Serbia’s politicians form new political parties every time disagree with they their current party - reg 342 currently are (there leader political parties in Serbia). istered the norm. One Ambassador Belgrade-based recently told me he was also alarmed by the distinct lack of urgency among politicians. Serbian “The country is standstill at and a I don’t understand their logic. If they are so eager to progress towards the EU and en - theycome how investors, courage go home at 5pm sharp and don’t work weekends?” overtime. little a warrant to enough EDITOR’S WORD Predictability Political By Mark R. Pullen elections Serbian numerous enced rate ourselves as pundits when it comes to predicting election - re sults and post-election moves. our experience of elections in Ser - - - NEWS NEWS “The situation in the party seems “Dacic will eventually side with Nikolic agreed: “The question is Fearing they might not cross the Pensioners leader, Jovan Krkoba - The reported price is the post of In addition, the Socialists are bar Tadic has denied talk of horse- At the same time, Dacic seems re - reach an agreement “If we don’t Source: Balkan Insight (www.balkaninsight.com) Balkan Insight (www.balkaninsight.com) Source: party over which way to turn. extremely complicated, as we try to convince the few remaining lag - gards that we need to move out of one Socialist shadow,” Milosevic’s Party official complained. in a bid to guide his party into Tadic the European mainstream, but much of the membership and many offi - cials may oppose that move.” will the party split or ‘old- back down,” he noted. timers’ threshold to enter parlia - 5-per-cent ment, the Socialists teamed up with Association of Pensioners and the the led by business - United Serbia Party, man Dragan Markovic “Palma”. bic, Palma and Dacic are all pushing for a deal with the Democrats. of deputy PM, with a brief in charge security for the Socialist leader. gaining for other ministries, includ - ing capital investments, Kosovo and education, Belgrade media reported. trading with the Socialists, maintain - ing that ministries would go only to those committed to working for the “strategic goal”. government’s negotiations with luctant to call off the nationalists. with the DSS and Radicals, par ty leadership will decide on future steps”, Dacic announced, following par new country’s of session first the liament on Wednesday. page 10 hile the football world watch - es events unfold at the Euro - However, a strong current also However, Mihajlo Markovic, a founder of Markovic, a prominent supporter Some younger Socialist officials Neighbourhood Matters faces extinction unless it changes. flows in the opposite direction, led by party veterans enraged the Tadic. prospect of a deal with recently warned of a crisis the party, if Dacic opts for the pro-European “nat - bloc, abandoning the Socialists’ ural” ideological partners. of Milosevic during the 1990s, is seen as representative of the “old- timers” in the party who want to stay policies, true to the former regime’s even though these almost ruined the Socialists for good. have voiced frustration over the con - tinuing impasse within their own Football Rebellion Football pean Championships in Austria and pean Championships in Switzerland, Bosnia is experiencing led by fans, play - a soccer rebellion, enraged ers and former stars who are by what they see as corrupt leaders football association of the country’s leaders. W Issue No. 1 / Friday, June 13, 2008 Issue No. 1 / Friday, page 5 conomists are warning that pro - over Serbia’s uncertainty longed “This year has been lost, from the After eight years of stagnation, the pro-European and nation - With Nikolic believes the Socialists, led “The group of younger Socialists Business Insight Costs Mounting future could scare off investors, lead investors, lead future could scare off to higher inflation and jeopardise prosperity for years to come. says standpoint of economic policy,” Econom - the of Stamenkovic Stojan ics Institute in Belgrade. to Serbia’s late president, Slobodan to Serbia’s Milosevic, and reformists who want the party to become a modern Euro - pean social democrat organisation. the Socialists returned to centre stage after winning 20 of the 250 seats in elections. parliament in the May 11 alist blocs almost evenly matched, the Socialists now have the final say on the fate of country. by Ivica Dacic, will come over to if only out of a pragmatic de - Tadic, sire to ensure their political survival. gathered around Dacic seems to be adding said, Nikolic majority”, the in that these reformists believe the party E Friday • June 13 2008 THIS ISSUE OF Belgrade Insight IS SUPPORTED BY: IS SUPPORTED ense negotiations on a new gov - ense negotiations ernment have divided the ranks “It looks as if the Socialists will Simultaneous negotiations held This divides “old-timers” loyal Socialist leader Ivica Dacic remains the Serbian kingmaker Socialist leader Ivica Dacic remains Lure of Tadic Alliance Splits Socialists Tadic Lure of government, old pro-EU While younger Socialists support joining a new, over the prospect. revolt Milosevic loyalists threaten in Belgrade By Rade Maroevic of the Socialist Party, which holds of the Socialist Party, of the balance power between the blocs and has yet to announce main which side they will support. move towards a government led by the Democrats,” political analyst Mi - lan Nikolic, of the independent Cen - tre of Policy Studies, said. “But such a move might provoke deeper divi - sions and even split the party.” with the pro-European and national - ist blocs have drawn attention to a deep rift inside the Socialists. T

Berislav Serbetic and Vojin Bakic. Monument to the Uprising of the People of Kordun and Banija. 1979–81. Petrova Gora, Croatia. Exterior view. Photo: Valentin Jeck, commissioned by The Museum of Modern Art, 2016

NEW YORK’S MOMA SHINES A LIGHT ON SOCIALIST YUGOSLAV ARCHITECTURE A prestigious new exhibition forces a fresh look at the underappreciated architecture of Tito’s Yugoslavia

Continued on page 13

+381 11 4030 306 [email protected] 2 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, July 13 - Thursday, July 26, 2018 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, July 13 - Thursday, July 26, 2018 3 SERBIA SERBIA

COMMENT Why We Must Not Forget Srebrenica

North Mitrovica is planned to be the administrative centre of the Community of Serb Municipalities. Photo: Beta / Sasa Djordjevic

Opposition parties maintained that health centre in North Mitrovica and Legal experts the Association would violate Kosovo’s an MP with the main Kosovo Serb party Kosovo sovereignty and create a new constitu- Srpska Lista, as saying that her col- think that for the tional entity, with the Vetevendosje par- leagues – Kosovo Serb MPs – are plan- ty calling it a “Bosniafication of Kosovo”. ning to submit a proposal for a lex spe- Organisation Zene u Crnom [Women in Black] organised a performance 'Srebrenica 8372' in Belgrade on July 10 commemorating the 23rd anniversary of the beginning of the genocide in Srebrenica. Photo: Beta establishment The Kosovo government formed a cialis that would enable the work of the ‘Must’ Change team to draft the Association’s statute Association. in July 2016. It however failed to com- “She and her colleagues, Serb repre- systematically and brutally executed, the ignorance of the past and manipu- public figures in Serbia and Bosnia and and functioning plete its mission due to political crises sentatives in the parliament of Kosovo, Denial of the and 30,000 people violently displaced. lation of the facts about the recent war. School books, Herzegovina to stop denying the past in the Kosovo parliament. will propose a lex specialis, the law that Srebrenica Since then, the relatives of the vic- Such a situation perpetuates the eth- and to build more inclusive education Laws for Serb of the The Association has also become a will recognise [the Association] and give tims - and in particular, mothers who nic divisions which made current and not only in systems and societies. major obstacle in the Brussels-mediated it significant jurisdiction, in order to have genocide must have lost husbands, sons, brothers - past tensions possible and hinders rec- Like the Holocaust and the Rwanda Association in Belgrade-Pristina talks, as Serbian repre- the necessary independence in relations have started a long, courageous walk to onciliation and peace. We must reverse Serbia and genocide, the Srebrenica genocide was Municipalities sentatives insisted on its implementation with the central authorities in Pristina,” end, unprosecuted justice and recognition. it. not an accident. It began well before it accordance before moving forward with other issues. says the transcript obtained by BIRN. Along that way, they have found Civilian victims of the Srebrenica Bosnia and occurred. In 2018, after the Kosovo authorities According to the transcripts, the OSCE perpetrators some measure of each. The Interna- genocide must receive adequate social It started when human beings were arrested and deported the head of the in Pristina has offered legal help to the tional Criminal Tribunal for the former protection and improved legal assis- Herzegovina, singled out because of their ethnicity. It Deal with the deal Serbian government office for Kosovo, team for the drafting of the statute of the must be tried and Yugoslavia has determined that geno- tance to assert their rights and obtain grew with a public discourse, fomented Marko Djuric, Serb representatives in Association, which began on May 4. schoolchildren cide was committed in Srebrenica and reparations. but all over by some media, which dehumanised The draft statute of the Association from Brussels, the Kosovo parliament threatened to However, the transcripts reveal that convicted some of the war criminals Political and judicial authorities in them and marginalised critical voices. establish the Association unilaterally. the managing team has refused the must be taught that orchestrated and took part in it. Bosnia and Herzegovina and in Serbia Europe, must It took shape in the systematic and in- of Serb Municipalities, one of the it would be But after EU pressure, Serb MPs OSCE’s legal assistance, saying it had And grassroots organisations are over- must improve their cooperation to end dustrial extermination of a large group dropped the plan and the team started sufficient help from legal experts from the truth about coming great obstacles to start the dif- impunity, by identifying and punishing include an of people, under the eyes of a passive key Belgrade-Pristina deals awaiting necessary for work on the statute in early May. Kosovo’s four northern Serb-majority ficult journey to reconciliation. war criminals. international community. And it con- municipalities. the massacres All this carries a strong significance, They should also invest more in objective tinues today, with denial and impunity. implementation, is likely to be Pristina to bring AMENDING KOSOVO LAWS The team members asked the head but remains little consolation for the identifying all genocide victims and The Srebrenica genocide marked of the OSCE mission in Kosovo, Jan in July 1995, says survivors of the genocide and the vic- clarify the fate of those who remain testimony of one of the darkest pages of European complete by early August and to The reports by Kosovo Serb team Braathu, to put pressure on Pristina to tims’ families. missing. They must step up the search history. If we want to write a brighter require amendments to Kosovo’s laws, in a special tasked with drafting the Association’s agree to change its laws. Dunja Mijatovic, They demand that their loved ones for mass graves and ensure that wit- the Srebrenica future, we must remember what hap- statute, which were submitted to Ko- “When it comes to political pressure the Council be found, but the slow identification nesses who may disclose the informa- pened and treat all the victims as our documents obtained by BIRN show. constitutional sovo’s Ministry of Administration and on Pristina with the aim of adopting a process inflicts additional suffering on tion necessary to identify all the other genocide, victims, without political or ethnic con- Local Self-Government between May draft statute in accordance with agree- of Europe’s them. They demand healthcare to treat places where corpses have been buried notations. law that would 4 and June 1, suggest that a new special ments made about the legal frame- their trauma, and they get substandard feel safe to do so. portraying it We must acknowledge the suffer- Erjone POPOVA, Die MORINA Kosovo and Serbia signed an agree- law and amendments to Kosovo’s exist- work, Braathu told members of [the Commissioner for therapy. They demand accountability, Governments and decision-makers ing of the survivors and of the victims’ ment in August 2015 in Brussels that ing laws are necessary steps towards team drafting the statute] that he does but many war criminals are still free must adopt far-sighted policies that families. We must make their struggle eaked reports from meet- envisaged, among other things, the es- be a valid establishing the Association. not have that power of influence,” the Human Rights. and unpunished. They demand recog- establish accountability and focus on without political for justice our goal. ings of the Kosovo Serb tablishment of the Association of Serb “After detailed analysis of all the report dated May 4 says. nition, but their suffering is ignored, vili- education. This must become a shared As Commissioner for Human Rights, team tasked by Pristina Municipalities. basis for the agreements adopted during nego- However, Killian Wahl, the deputy fied or denied. responsibility, primarily for Bosnia and or ethnic I will continue calling for justice for all to draft the statute of the In December same year, a Kosovo tiations in Brussels, and Pristina’s cur- head of the OSCE Mission in Kosovo, Dunja MIJATOVIC The latter is certainly one of the most Herzegovina and Serbia, but also for the victims of the crimes happened long-awaited Association Constitutional Court ruling opened the Association, and rent legal regulations, legal experts was quoted as telling the team on May outrageous offences that they have other European countries, not only in connotations. during the wars in the Balkans. Serving Lof Serb Municipalities show that it way for the drafting of the Association’s think that for the establishment and 15 that the drafting of the statute is a very July 11 since 1995, been obliged to endure during the post- the former Yugoslavia. justice is the only way we can all con- should be finished by August 4, BIRN statute, but also found incompatibilities functioning of the Association in ac- first step, while the second step would hundreds of people have genocide period. And yet they have The education systems in the region front the past and prevent it repeating can reveal. between the agreement and the coun- that it cannot cordance with the deal from Brussels, be amendments to the country’s legal gathered at the Potocari found the strength to continue their must become more inclusive. They cide, portraying it without political itself. The reports also reveal that the team try’s constitution which it recommend- it would be necessary for Pristina to framework. Memorial Centre to com- fight for the truth and justice, despite must lead the young generations out of or ethnic connotations. They must and its local Kosovo Serb legal advisers ed should be amended. be done on bring in a special constitutional law that “Killian Wahl highlighted that the memorate the Srebrenica the denial and minimisation of the gen- the caves of prejudice in which manu- educate about the past, educate to de- Dunja Mijatovic is the Council of Eu- believe that the Association - which will However, the implementation of the would be a valid basis for the Associa- [drafting team] should, together with Egenocide, the most horrific crime com- ocide, which we see also happening in factured realities blur the truth and bunk myths, educate about justice and rope’s Commissioner for Human Rights. represent Serbs’ interests in Kosovo deal has been stalled as the Kosovo the level of a tion, and that it cannot be done on the the OSCE, define the starting line and mitted in Europe since World War II. education. spread the seed of hate. equality for all. - can only be created and function if opposition bitterly opposed the deal, level of a [government] decision,” says a basic elements of the statute, and that Survivors and victims’ families de- Mono-ethnic schools and the ‘two- School books, not only in Serbia European countries should provide The opinions expressed in the Com- Kosovo amends its existing legal frame- even setting off tear gas in the parlia- [government] report dated May 14. issues on which it is not possible to ad- mand justice, recognition and respect. schools-under-one-roof’ system still and Bosnia and Herzegovina, but all more support to grassroots initiatives ment section are those of the authors work which the Kosovo opposition mentary chamber to stop its ratifica- One of the reports dated May 30 vance should be resolved within politi- In a few days that July 23 years ago, characterise education in Bosnia and over Europe, must include an objec- for reconciliation. They should also put only and do not necessarily reflect the might strongly oppose. tion. decision. quoted Milena Nikolic, director of a cal dialogue,” says the report. more than 8,000 boys and men were Herzegovina. It is also characterised by tive testimony of the Srebrenica geno- more pressure on politicians and other views of BIRN. 4 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, July 13 - Thursday, July 26, 2018 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, July 13 - Thursday, July 26, 2018 5 BELGRADE BELGRADE

Capital Hosts Swimming, Diving, Championships Capital to Honour City’s Big-Hearted Benefactor The 20th World Finswimming Cham- pionship in swimming pool and open ‘Repat water as well as the Speed Diving Once approved by the assembly, the World Championship will be organ- The city plans to statue will be erected in the park that Ce- ised in Belgrade from July 14-23. commemorate lovic himself made in Karadjordjeva St, Races will take place at two loca- while one of streets in the city’s Savamala Serbia’: tions: at the Sports and Recreation the memory of the district will also be named after him. Centre Milan Gale Muskatirovic and in brief Belgrade Bosnian Serb fighter, Celovic was born in 1854 in the village of Ada Ciganlija. Organisers say partici- Pridvorci in the municipality of Trebinje, pants from more than 50 countries businessman and the southernmost town in Bosnia and Her- are coming, including Russia, China, Many Leave, the US, Turkey, Austria and Indonesia. philanthropist Luka zegovina. He came to Belgrade in 1872 and Serbia will field eight representatives. stayed there until his death on August 15, Hopes are especially high for Ivan Celovic with a street 1929. Lendjer, who swam for Serbia at the and a statue. After working as an apprentice on his a Few Are 2008 and 2012 Summer Olympics. arrival to Belgrade, he returned home to In 2006, he was named Serbia’s best fight in the Herzegovina Uprising against young athlete. The first part of the the Ottoman rulers of Bosnia from 1875 to competitions will take place at Milan Gale Muskatirovic, while the swim- Ivana NIKOLIC 1878. Lured Back ming marathon is set for July 19-20 When Serbia declared war on the Otto- in Ada Ciganlija. he Belgrade-based “Jovan Ducic” man Empire, volunteers from Herzegovi- association, gathering people from na went back to Belgrade, so Luka contin- Ecological Tours of Tthe Trebinje area of southeast Bos- ued fighting in both Serbian–Turkish wars. Moms, a team of 30 that fights against Zemun Island nia and Hezegovina, will file a request to After the wars ended, Celovic started Serbia’s brain drain the kind of discrimination faced by the Belgrade City Assembly for it to hon- a business as an independent merchant, is one of the worst mothers in the Balkan country and Starting from July, the Tourist our the memory of Luka Celovic. selling plums, corn, wheat and pigs. helps them fulfill their personal and Organisation of Belgrade is holding ecological walks across the Great “Our idea is to preserve his memory In 1882 he established the Belgrade Co- in Europe’s recent professional goals. War Island, or Veliko Ratno Ostrvo, a among people from Trebinje, which made operative, the Beogradska Zadruga, with In 2014, Center for Moms gathered river island located at the confluence a deep mark on the lives of Serbians,” said the goal of helping traders and artists by history, but some 250 mothers to lobby each of the Ser- of Sava and Danube, in the Belgrade the head of the association, Zarko Ratko- providing them with easy loans and so bian parliament’s 250 lawmakers to municipality of Zemun. Two-hour vic. avoiding loan sharks. Serbs just cannot pass legislation that cut some of the guided tours explaining the history Belgrade Deputy Mayor Goran Vesic A philanthropist, Celovic founded and red tape complicating the process of as well as the nature of the island said the local administration supported funded the Committee for the Protection stay away. obtaining maternity benefits. Ruzicic will take place on Tuesdays and the initiative because “we are sending a of Blind Girls in Belgrade. says her work shows what is possible, Fridays at 11am. The last tour will be message to younger generations about Owning a huge part of what is now Sa- Patrick if attitudes would only change. on August 31. To secure a place on a HOWARD walk, call +381 62 80 19 067. what kind of people they should strive to vamala, he turned it into a business hub of “The mentality here in Serbia is that be, and that, no matter how much [money] Belgrade. ovana Ruzicic remembers everything is impossible,” she said. “I Demolition Awaits they have, they should make an effort to Celovic never married and had no her teenage years in Bel- once had a boss tell me to stop looking Illegal Buildings leave part of their time, work or what they children. On his death, he left most of his grade as a time of war and to improve and change things, explain- Celovic was one of the largest benefactors in the history Photo: Public domain earn, to their city and country.” wealth to the University of Belgrade. of Belgrade University. shortage. ing to me that ‘The one who looks to The city has announced a tender “I remember living under the stars steps in the s**t’.” for the removal of illegally built theJ embargoes – waiting in lines for “People tell me I am stupid for com- buildings on the territory of the hours at gas stations, the empty su- ing back,” said Ruzicic, who also organ- capital. The total cost of the works is put at 40 million dinars [around Summer Full of Roadworks Awaits Belgraders permarket shelves, standing in line for ises a community group of some 1,400 338,906 euros]. Some of the milk and bread,” she said. repatriates called Repats Serbia. “They objects that await demolition are A number of streets ”We are doing our best to reconstruct Her parents considered leaving get angry at me for not taking the op- in Karadjordjeva , Dositejeva, as big streets over the summer months for the United States, but their jobs portunity to stay in the US.” well as the Topcider gas station in in the capital are when there is less traffic, when many stopped them. Instead, they sent their Patrijarha Pavla boulevard. awaiting long-due Belgraders go on vacation and when daughter there alone to finish high “I KNEW I WOULD the schools are closed,” Vesic told Pink school. Ruzicic stayed 11 years, becom- COME BACK” Serbian Actor to Promote Film About refurbishment, while TV. ing part of one of the biggest depopu- Belgrade A number of the city’s big, important lations of a single region in Europe in Dragana Filipovic, 37, faced similar some are already in streets are already closed, including recent history, an exodus that robbed challenges when she returned to Ser- Prominent Serbian actor Milos the process of getting a Svetogorska, sections of Radnicka and Serbia of hundreds of thousands of its bia from Britain. Bikovic, who also gained fame for Bulevar Oslobodjenja. The roadworks people, in many cases the young, edu- “Everyone had already forgotten roles in a number of Russian films, new look. there are expected to be finished by cated and talented. that I had been here,” said Filipovic. has started an initiative to make the end of July, August 5, September 1, But what sets Ruzicic apart is what “Nobody knew about me anymore.” a film about Belgrade, in a bid to Ivana NIKOLIC respectively. happened next – she came home. Filipovic, from the southern Ser- present the Serbian capital to the Reconstruction work started on the “This country needs everyone who bian town of Vlasotince, graduated in world – especially in Russia. “Hotel Belgrade” would be a joint project hose staying in town over sum- city-centre Balkanska on July 10, and is wants to do something for it to be here speech therapy in Serbia and spent of Bikovic’s production company, mer should be sure to learn by due to last until October 15, Vesic said. The Reconstruction of Balkanska comes two months after the city Photo: Beoinfo doing something,” said the 38-year-old, several frustrating years working Arhangel Studio, and the Russian gi- Theart the names of the streets plan there is to renew all the installations authorities pledged to turn it into “a street of old crafts.” who now runs a non-profit tackling in the public sector. Feeling unchal- ant, Yellow Black and White. Belgrade that are undergoing reconstructions, and replace the asphalt with cobbles. discrimination faced by mothers in lenged and discouraged by bureau- Mayor Zoran Radojicic welcomed or they might get stuck in traffic and be “We will change everything beneath starts on August 10 and lasts until Sep- There will be at least two major con- Serbia. cracy, she left to do an MBA in Britain, the idea. “A huge number of people late for meetings – not to mention any the street, as that has never been done tember 3, Vesic explained. struction works in the city beginning More than two decades since the but conceded “I always knew I wanted will be able to get to know our city other possible frustration they experi- before,” the Deputy Mayor said. Moving to Vracar, works on Kneginje later in the year: the Savski Square re- collapse of federal Yugoslavia, Serbia’s to come back.” through the film and in this way we ence. Reconstruction of Balkanska comes Zorke kick off on July 20, but local au- construction is also supposed to begin, population continues to decline, the will further popularize Belgrade and contribute to the development of Deputy Mayor of Belgrade Goran two months after the city authorities thorities have not specified how long and so is construction of the central result of low birth rates, the depopula- tourism. This is an example of how Vesic says streets are being reconstruct- pledged to turn it into “a street of old they will last. park of the Belgrade Waterfront, an tion of rural areas, widespread pover- we should talk to other young suc- ed over summer because Belgrade is crafts” on May 4. Apart from streets, this summer, Repub- Emirates-backed gentrification devel- ty and migration. The United Nations cessful people,” Radojicic said after traditionally emptier at this time until After the works on Svetogorska are lic Square will also be turned into a con- opment on the right bank of the Sava predicts Serbia’s population could col- meeting Bikovic on July 11. the end of August. completed, refurbishment of Takovska struction site in the first week of August. river. lapse by over 15 per cent by 2050. According to official statistics, Ser- bia’s ‘brain drain’ – the rapid outflow of well-trained or well-educated in- The Ruzicic founded a non-profit called Center for Moms, that fights against discrimination Photo: Courtesy of Centar za Mame Find your copy of ORDER DELIVERY TO YOUR DOOR dividuals to counties that offer bet- faced by mothers in Serbia. +381 11 4030 303, [email protected] ter economic and social opportuni- mentality Belgrade Insight here: www.balkaninsight.com/en/page/subscribe-to-belgrade-insight ties – accounted for the departure of “I was already writing out my busi- “In the UK there was already a mar- comes to success in school or work, ac- roughly 27,000 people in 2007. In 2015 here in ness plan for the practice I was going to ket for the work,” she said. “But here, cording to the OECD. that number had more than doubled open in Serbia while I was packing my it had just started developing when Ruzicic and Filipovic both say they to 58,000. Serbia bags to come back.” I set up. This made it like I was a part hope more Serbs will stay and help HOTEL MOSKVA HOTEL HYATT BISTRO BAR NATIONAL FOUNDATION RADISSON BLU Many believe they have little choice Filipovic’s return is all the more sur- of its beginning, like I was developing their country develop. Address: Balkanska 1 Address: Milentija Popovica 5 Address: Vojvode Stepe 198 FOR DANCE OLD MILL HOTEL but to seek opportunities elsewhere. prising given the industry she works [the field of speech therapy]. Now, it’s Ruzicic said she believed her work at Address: Kolarceva 3 Address: Bulevar Vojvode Misica 15 According to official statistics, the is that in. Healthcare professional are leaving becoming more competitive and the Center for Moms will encourage wom- HOTEL SQUARE NINE HOTEL CROWNE PLAZA SKVER 44 www.radissonblu.com/hotel-belgrade youth unemployment rate in Serbia Eastern Europe, and Serbia in particu- care being provided is getting better as en to demonstrate to their children Address: Studentski trg 9 Address: Vladimira Popovica 10 Address: Pozeska 44a RESTAURANT BIZU averaged 42 per cent between 2008 everything is lar, in droves. a result.” the importance of helping others, just Address: Andre Nikolica 1-3 RESTAURANT DVA JELENA and 2017. The average net salary is 400 In June 2016, the average monthly Filipovic says she takes greater sat- as her own mum did in helping other CAFE SNEZANA HOTEL LE PETIT PIAFF INTERGALACTIC DINER Address: Skadarska 32 euros ($475), one of the lowest on the net salary for a doctor in Serbia was 400 isfaction from seeing the impact of her women with their shopping bags. Address: Internacionalnih brigada 22 impossible. Address: Knez Mihailova 50 Restaurant Mali vrabac INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF continent. The World Economic Fo- euros, according to the Serbian govern- work in Serbia, where for six years she “Now I do things even bigger than Address: Hotel Jugoslavija, Bulevar Address: Skadarska 34 BELGRADE rum ranks Serbia 137th out of 142 coun- ment. That compares with the 4,000 eu- has been providing services for chil- that, and I hope my kids will do even Mihajla Pupina 85A KOLARAC Address: Temisvarska 19 tries in terms of ability to retain talent. ros starting salary for a medical graduate dren that they cannot get from the state. bigger things than me,” she said. Address: Studentski trg 5 HOTEL COURTYARD BY TOURIST Ruzicic, however, never stopped in Germany, where Filipovic could have Besides the economic impact, brain MARRIOTT THE BRITISH INTERNATIONAL ORGANISATION OF SERBIA seeing Serbia as home, a warm, caring settled given her partner is German. drain has serious consequences for Patrick Howard is an alumnus of HOTEL EXCELSIOR Address: Vase Carapica 2-4 SCHOOL OF BELGRADE Address: Trg Republike 5 community where her mother would Filipovic, however, has a different those left behind, in many cases chil- the SIT Study Abroad Program Serbia, Address: Kneza Milosa 5 Address: Smetanina 12 Address: Kolarceva 7 Address: Cika Ljubina 8 stop her car to help a woman laden take on it. dren who grow up in families that have Bosnia and Kosovo: Peace and Conflict down with shopping bags. Serbia’s underdeveloped health sec- disintegrated due to a parent or sibling Studies in the Balkans. This story was Not coincidentally, Ruzicic founded tor represents an opportunity for a having to leave to work abroad. Such written as an Independent Study Project a non-profit in Serbia called Center for Jovana Ruzicic qualified speech therapist. children can be disadvantaged when it in Journalism. 6 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, July 13 - Thursday, July 26, 2018 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, July 13 - Thursday, July 26, 2018 7 SERBIA BUSINESS

COMMENT Serbia’s History is Carved in Stone in Belgrade NEW YUGOSLAVIA A tour of the EMBRACES ITS buildings INTERNATIONAL IMAGE After Yugoslavia was taken over by the of Belgrade Communists, the new country's image needed to reflect its allegiance to Stalin tells you as and the Soviet Block. As Belgrade was chosen to be the much about centre of the Communist Information Bureau, or 'Comuinfrom', a grey, boat- the country's shaped building was built to serve as its headquarters, close to the cemetery political twists of the Red Army soldiers, and Socialist- Realist statues of muscular proletarians and turns as any popped up around the city. However, when in 1948, Tito turned his history book. back on Stalin, a new style, to reflect Yugo- slavia's role, was refashioned. Rather than looking solely to the East, Yugoslavia em- Srdjan GARCEVIC braced the international style of Le Cor- busier and Mies van der Rohe, in rebuild- here are few better ways ing itself from the ruins of World War II. to study a country's his- The style served the rapidly industri- tory than by observing alising country, as it was functional and its built environment. No relatively easy to build, but was also help- amount of books, photo- fully universal, which not only made it graphs and paintings can homely to foreign dignitaries from both Tgive you the same immediate knowledge political blocks and newly de-colonised of its history as seeing its buildings and nations, but also avoided the nationalist monuments. heritage of the country's various nations. The facades explain how its founders Nevertheless, the country still needed wanted to be seen, their floor plans trace monumentality, best reflected in the Fed- how its inhabitants lived and worked, eral Executive Council building, the first while the size and quality of the materials one to be built in New Belgrade. Think Green and Reap and craft tell stories of economic booms This yearning for universality was also and busts. present in the way the country commem- While many ascribe Belgrade's chaotic orated its identity-forging struggle during (or, euphemistically, eclectic) mix of ar- World War II. Rather than statues literally Rewards, Economists chitecture to multiple destructions in the depicting suffering or battles, abstract but two World Wars, much of it also reflects poetic compositions were used, which the often dramatic ideological and po- made them timeless and stunning. litical shifts that happened in Serbia, and More cynical critics allege that the tell Serbia later, Yugoslavia. move to abstraction was done to make This is best seen when one looks at Bel- them difficult to interpret and so sidestep Landfill management is one of the major environmental problem in Serbia. Photo: Beta grade's official buildings, which were the Eclecticism of architectural styles in Belgrade has a lot to do with many political shifts of Serbia and Yugoslavia. Photos: Srdjan Garcevic the uncomfortable fact that not all So- primary markers of where the country he set to build a suitably grand palace, de- Hungarians solidified their presence in The influx of Russian architects escap- cialist Yugoslavs were on the same side up with the rest of Central and Eastern "Unfortunately, populist measures wanted to be seen as heading towards signed in an eclectic style popular at the the Balkans by occupying Bosnia in 1878, ing the communist regime served the throughout the war. A new report Europe. prevailed then and the money was and which at the same time reflected and time by the Czech architect, Jan Nevole. Serbia started seeing Vienna as less of a Karadjordjevic dynasty well to create Nevertheless, self-consciously looking says Serbia can Such an investment would boost spent, to little effect." influenced the way Serbian or Yugoslav While Anastasijevic's ambitions were patron than a threat. a sense that the new kingdom was an outward to the new friends around the economic growth, Council member "I personally am not a big optimist, Leading identity shifted. thwarted by the return of the Obrenovics Richer and more educated and ambi- emerging European power. world in the Non-Aligned movement and and should Vladimir Vuckovic told BIRN. considering the state of affairs in our to power, Serbia's increasing independ- tious than ever, the Serbs wanted to craft Nikolay Krasnov, famous for design- buoyed by, what will turn out to be, exces- "Our main concern is for the poor country where important issues are by Example FROM ISTANBUL ence from Turkey and its westward turn a distinct local style. As turning back to ing imperial palaces in Crimea, was com- sive debt, Socialist Yugoslav architecture spend big to quality air that we breathe and the state Our main often postponed, but I also believe that TO VIENNA AND BACK gained pace under Milos' son, Mihailo Ottoman traditions and aesthetics was missioned to build government build- flourished and then hypertrophied, as ev- of our water supply, but there is also we have a good chance now," Vuckovic Vuckovic said that if a greener Obrenovic. not an option, the focus turned towards ings along Kneza Milosa and Nemanjina idenced by poetic monumental buildings, catch up with the momentous economic potential in im- concern is for said. policy was to work it would While many stress Serbia's rush to es- Highly educated and powerful, Mihailo Serbia's own medieval past. Streets, as well as the new Royal Palace in such as the iconic concrete-clad Genex plementing such a policy change," said He noted that Serbia's new finance need to be centrally coordi- cape from its old Ottoman heritage after it worked hard to pull Serbia away from its Ironically, Oriental and neo-Byzantine Dedinje. Tower and Rudo Buildings, as well as the rest of Europe Vuckovic. "It could by itself contribute the poor quality minister is former Belgrade mayor Sini- nated. won autonomy in the 1830s under Prince Ottoman past and forge a new Western architecture was also all the rage in Vi- Ivan Mestrovic, an impressive sculptor, more graceful Museum of Contemporary in terms of some 0.5 per cent to GDP growth." sa Mali, who, Vuckovic said, should be Milos Obrenovic, the buildings of that identity. After the last Ottoman Garrison enna at the time as well. a passionate Yugoslav and no stranger to Art and 25 Maj Sports Centre in Dorcol. Serbia should raise the proportion air that we well aware of the scale of environmen- "Sometimes there are great time, in fact, reflect a great degree of conti- left Belgrade in 1867, he set about trans- Church architecture first saw the tran- megalomania, created numerous iconic With Tito's death, the subsequent debt environmental of national output it spends on envi- tal challenges facing the capital alone – initiatives from local com- nuity with the Ottoman rule. forming his capital. sition from neo-Baroque to the emerging monuments for the new country with al- crisis in 1980s and rising nationalism and ronmental infrastructure and devel- breathe and from public transport to heating, waste munities for investment in To signal his still close relationship The ancient winding alleyways of Dor- national style. legorical compositions that drew in equal separatist movements, this period of Bel- protection. opment from 0.7 per cent to at least 1.3 water management and garbage dis- environmental protection, but with the Sultan in Istanbul, Prince Milos's col were straightened and new, sumptu- The escalation of tension between Ser- parts from Classical antiquity and local grade's architecture came to an end, to be per cent, the Fiscal Council report said, the state of our posal. when certain regional projects palace in Topcider and his wife Milica's ous buildings were designed by Serbian bia and Austria-Hungary after the coup culture. replaced by a post-modern mishmash of approaching the 2 per cent average for In September 2017, just before his are at issue, for example palace in the city were built as if for the architects who were often born and stud- against the Obrenovic dynasty in 1903, as His vision gave Belgrade the Victor styles. Milan RADONJIC countries of Central and Eastern Eu- water supply, term as mayor ended, Mali closed a regional landfills or waste wealthy Ottomans of the period, with ied in the Austro-Hungarian Empire. well as the popularity of less regimented monument in Kalemegdan and the Tomb The crises of the 1990s and 2000s rope. That means an extra 500 million deal with the French Suez groupe and management facilities, there is hammams, separate male and female Belgrade's main Orthodox church was Art Nouveau style, brought this new na- of the Unknown solider at Avala. were reflected in Belgrade's architecture ow is the time for Serbia euros annually. but there is also Japanese Itocho for a 25-year project resistance," he said. quarters and furnishings of luscious car- refashioned in Central European Ba- tional style into public buildings in the Finally, the pre-World War I Serbian na- as well. Unplanned, ugly private exten- to start investing in the In some 40 per cent of towns and to manage Belgrade's Vinca landfill pet and wood. roque style and an elegant theatre was early 20th century. tional and neo-Byzantine styles were not sions started metastasizing on Belgrade's environment, economists 60 per cent of villages in Serbia the tap momentous on the outskirts of the city – an envi- "So it's our opinion that a While some new, smaller houses were built at the place of the main Ottoman The old building of the Serbian Educa- forgotten but were made less specific, for buildings, while the tacky mega-homes of say in a new report which water is not fit to drink, while a major ronmental time-bomb decades in the certain level of centralisation now being built in European styles, most city gate. tion Ministry at Terazije and the building many schools, community centres and the new rich showed the obsession with argues a greener policy reliance on coal to produce electricity making. is necessary in this process, economic where both incentives and of Belgrade and its skyline, dotted by min- This trend towards establishing an of the Serbian telegraph signalled to the municipal buildings across the country, money and corruption of the increasing- Nwould be a boon for the economy. means a large proportion of the popula- While welcomed by environmen- penalties would be prescribed arets, still looked distinctly Ottoman. identity that was firmly Western contin- world that Serbia was no longer playing providing a sense of stylistic unity and ly chaotic state. Serbia trails much of Europe in envi- tion is exposed to high levels of air pol- talists, the contract – the annexes of potential in accordingly, for those who It was only when Milos was over- ued after Mihailo's assassination in 1868. catch-up with the West but had its own culminating in the grandiose project for The largest architectural project in ronmental protection, best illustrated lution. which have yet to be published – has show initiative and resist- thrown by the rival dynasty of the Karad- As Serbia grew more prosperous, more identity. the St Sava Church. Belgrade of our days, the Belgrade Water- in the fact that the country's two biggest raised eyebrows among some critics implementing ance." jordjevic family that Belgrade's architec- of the old Ottoman houses gave way to After the assassination of King Alex- front, also rhymes with the times. cities – Belgrade and Novi Sad – do not GOOD CHANCE who say the annual 38 million-euro ture started looking West, more precisely buildings erected in Western neo-Classical, MONUMENTAL ander in 1934, the Yugoslav government Vaguely contemporary but somehow treat the raw sewage they dump di- such a policy price tag represents a major burden Asked about the kind of mes- towards the Austro-Hungarian Empire, neo-Renaissance and neo-Baroque styles. BUILDINGS TRY TO FORGE reacted by strengthening of state control cheap-looking, it is planted illegally in the rectly into the Sava and Danube rivers, With Serbia running a budget sur- on the Belgrade budget. The consor- sage sent by the fact a former which was then Serbia's ally against the The minarets of mosques gave way COMMON IDENTITY and the aesthetics turned even more au- middle of the city on unstable soil – serving compared to the Hungarian and Roma- plus, now is the time to act, Vuckovic change. tium will build a new waste manage- president of Serbia, Tomislav Ottomans. to church spires and the turrets of the thoritarian. the interests of the anonymous lucky few. nian capitals Budapest and Bucharest, argued. ment facility projected to cost 300 Nikolic, built a private weekend The first example of that was the build- Old Royal Palace, now much altered and The creation of the Kingdom of Serbs, The sleek lines and coolness of Bel- which treat 95 per cent and 60 per cent, "The fiscal situation is much better million euros and run it for the next 25 retreat in an area of protected ing that now houses the Belgrade Univer- housing the City Hall – on which little Croats and Slovenes after World War I grade's Main Post Office by the parliament Srdjan Garcevic is a writer and a respectively. than previous years and we have the years. water supply in Belgrade, sity Rectorate, built by a wealthy mer- expense was spared when Serbia was el- meant that the new country, spanning building, as well as the headquarters of founder of The Nutshell Times blog. In a report published in June, Serbia's chance to do what we could have done Vuckovic would not be drawn on the Vuckovic replied: "Politicians chant, Misa Anastasijevic. evated to the status of fully independent much more territory and containing di- Yugoslavia's Export Monopoly in Obilicev Fiscal Council – a government-appoint- back in 2006 when (private mobile op- merits or drawbacks of the deal, a so- should lead by example in this This ambitious merchant expected his kingdom in 1882. verse peoples, needed grander buildings Venac, demonstrate a façade of unity and The opinions expressed in the Com- ment ed advisory body – said an investment erator) Mobtel was sold to Telenor and called Public-Private Partnership. respect." daughter to marry what he hoped to be Towards the end of the 19th century, to project its power and impress a new strength just as the country was about to section are those of the authors only and do of 8.5 billion euros was needed over there was a respectable budget sur- "It could be even more expensive if the heir to the principality of Serbia, and as Ottoman power ebbed and Austro- common identity onto its citizens. plunge into chaos. not necessarily re ect the views of BIRN. the next 10-15 years for Serbia to catch plus," he said. Vladimir Vukcevic the state was to get into it," he said. 8 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, July 13 - Thursday, July 26, 2018 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, July 13 - Thursday, July 26, 2018 9 REGION FACES About town with… The American NATASA RASIC Preserving Memories Rasic is a mezzo-soprano and a member of the National Theatre’s opera com- of Yugoslav WWII pany. She is also a trained lawyer and a proud native of Zemun. Memorials MORNING

Rehearsals usually Donald Niebyl, a start from 10am or 11am, so I like to wake biologist from the up early, between 7am or 8am. If the weather US, created the is nice, I make myself a coffee and breakfast and Spomenik Data- go for a walk, rollerblade or just tan on my balcony and then base to tell the warm up my voice. stories behind Yu- When I am not busy, and provided I didn’t go out the night before, I like active mornings: I go roll- goslav World War erblading around Ada, meet girlfriends for cof- fee or hit the gym at Kocovic Academy. If I’m in II memorials - but Zemun, where I grew up and lived until recently, I go to Jarbol café [22. Oktobra 14]. It’s a cute locals were some- neighbourhood place with a phenomenal staff and vibe, and it is my absolutely favourite place times bemused by for coffee. If I am not in Zemun, I go to Koffein [Cara Lazara 13] or Kafeterija [various] – there his enthusiasm for are so many places with good coffee in town. these long-neglect- AFTERNOON ed monuments. Many Croats are left out from enjoying the beauty of their coastline due to soaring prices. Photo: Pixabay My favourite place for lunch, because I like Italian food, is Campo de Fiori [Njegoseva 35], Srdjan GARCEVIC again in Zemun: they have what I think is the closest thing to real Italian pizza in Belgrade. In bout a decade ago, Yugoslav the vicinity there are also a lot of great places WWII monuments were al- – Milagro [Kej Oslobodjenja 55], Reka [Kej most forgotten at home but Croats Miss Out on Country's Oslobodjenja 73], Saran [Kej Oslobodjenja 53] started capturing people's – and the cobbled part of the Danube embank- imagination around the ment is great for a walk. I like to spend my after- worldA when Jan Kempenaers, a Belgian A biologist from Illinois and an arts and travel enthusiast, Niebyl Photo: Courtesy of Donald Niebyl noons around there and maybe sit for a coffee decided to start Spomenik Database after a trip around the Balkans. Tourism Success Story photographer, created his 'Spomeniks' or a milkshake. I also like hanging around the part of the Danube promenade close to Hotel ('Memorials') series, which included im- To satisfy his curiosity about the initial poking and prodding around the ruins [of Jugoslavija. There, I occasionally treat myself to ages of striking monuments at Kosmaj in purposes and the odd designs of the mon- the monuments] could be seen as kind of in- Croatia has Like many less well-off Croats, Ivanka "If we are talking about commercial FOREIGNERS ALSO bathing anymore. For this price, you some pancakes in Keops or some Mexican food Serbia, Podgaric in Croatia and Tjentiste in uments, Niebyl had to dive into the pain- cendiary. They were destroyed for a reason feels priced out of her own country and accommodation capacities, the solu- WORRIED BY PRICE RISES can go to Spain and on more pleasant in Zapata. Bosnia and Herzegovina. ful and often contentious histories of the and some people might want to make sure become a unable to take any part in the tourism tion should be sought in the pre and beaches," said Ludmila, an operator in His eerie photos of oddly-shaped me- events that they commemorated - bloody they stayed that way," Niebyl said. "boom" for which Croatia has become post-season period, when foreign tour- Unsurprisingly, most overnight stays Krakow based corporation. Then, of course, there are great old-school fish morials in dramatic settings attracted the battles, ethnic cleansing and horrific repris- At the beginning of his project he was favourite tourist famous. ist traffic is at a lower level and when in Croatia are made by foreigners for A popular website in Slovakia, Aktu- restaurants in Zemun like Slep and Radecki. attention of design and travel websites, als - as well as tackle the touchy subjects of also met with some incredulity at home in Prices are too high for them, and the tourism providers are more motivated whom such prices are no great prob- ality.sk, on Wednesday was full of com- Slep has amazing food and is located on an spreading their popularity around the Socialist Yugoslavia's heritage in its succes- the US, where some people wondered why destination for supermarkets on the coast are even to boost demand by lowering the pric- lem. plaints about over-expensive Croatian old ship. Radecki, on the other hand, is at the world. sor states. he was "wasting" his time with such a rela- more expensive than those in conti- es," HTZ explained. According to last year's data, most summer holidays. end of the Zemun embankment. It’s very rustic: They also reached Donald Niebyl, a bi- "I basically had to learn everything from tively obscure topic. Europeans – but nental regions of Croatia. Not to men- visitors to Croatia came from Germany "In 2009, for a spacious apartment everything is made of wood and there are two ologist from Illinois and an arts and travel scratch. This, I felt, gave me a more objec- Nevertheless, Spomenik Database be- the high prices, tion catering services such as bars and DAY TRIPS TO THE [21.52 per cent], Austria [9.58 per cent], [in Rovinj] of 70 square metres, we paid fat cats always walking around. Of course, the enthusiast who had no prior connection to tive approach to understanding and pro- came a hit. Riding the wave of its popu- restaurants. BEACH SUFFICE Slovenia [8.68], the UK [5.54], Poland about 50 euros. Last year, we paid 80 fish is always fresh. the former Yugoslav region. cessing the conflicts of this region. Every larity, Niebyl now occasionally organises ironically, mean [4.59] and the Czech Republic [4.02 per euros for a similar apartment; now it's "About three years ago I had time be- time I stumbled across some amazing sto- tours for those interested in the region, and SUN AND For residents of the capital, however, cent]. 100 euros," one social media poster la- On the odd occasion, when I want to go some- tween jobs. I have always been fascinated ry, I wondered how there were so few in the the project attracted attention of Fuel, a UK- that its resorts are SEA IS NOT FOR there is a mid-way option between Although foreign visitors rave about mented. where a bit more polished, I go to Malevilla, also by the monuments, as I had seen them in Western world who were aware of these based design and publishing company. now out of reach EVERYONE "soaking feet in a washbowl" and long the natural beauty of the country, some on the Danube. the same internet pictures that everyone stories and the lessons from them which Niebyl and Fuel are to release a book holidays by the sea. of them are also put off by the rising pric- SUCCESS IN TOURISM AND else had for about ten years now, so I want- could be learned," Niebyl said. together in September 2018, called to many of its Croatia saw a record 18.5 million Many Zagreb tourist agencies of- es of accommodation, services and food. ECONOMIC SUCCESS EVENING ed to finally see them for myself," Niebyl Besides understanding the tangled and 'Spomenik Monument Database', which tourist arrivals in 2017, and this year the fer one-day trips to the closest coastal Karolina Wojtasz, a Polish fan of Cro- told BIRN. still very sensitive history of the region, will contain maps, photos and the stories own citizens. country expects 20 million arrivals. resorts by bus, mainly to places like atian culture who publishes for a web- Tourism has become a huge earner Naturally, a fair bit of my evenings are spent After doing extensive research on how there was also the challenge of actually behind a selection of the monuments that However, only 2 million of those 18.5 Crikvenica Novi Vinodolski, Selce and site, Chorwacja Cafe, covering cultural for the country. Revenues from tourism performing or watching my friends’ performanc- he could visit about 20 or 30 of the monu- visiting the sites, which are often located in Niebyl painstakingly researched. million arrivals were made by domes- Krk. and lifestyle topics from Croatia, says in the first quarter of this year, accord- es and concerts at the National Theatre or at ments, often in remote areas, Niebyl de- remote areas. Even after these successes, Niebyl still tic tourists. In the poorer eastern part of Zagreb, the cost is visibly going up. ing to the National Bank, amounted Kolarac. I also like going to see plays in Bel- cided to share the fruits of his efforts with Although skilled in orienteering and has the urge to do more work on the subject, Anja VLADISAVLJEVIC Ivanka's family is one of the many the Dubrava quarter, bunches of ad- "Unfortunately, prices from year to to 450 million euros, which was 14 per grade, although my performing schedule makes the wider public and created his Spomenik mapping, Niebyl remembers getting lost fuelled in part by messages from around that difficult. that only get to the coast by using non- verts for one-day trips are posted in year are getting higher. We pay more cent more than in the same period last Database. around Kozara in Bosnia and Herzegovina the world to keep going, many of them com- vanka, a mother-of-three living in commercial accommodation – friends public area. than 50 per cent more for basic food year, Tourism Minister Gari Capelli said The database is an ever-growing re- after following erroneous GPS directions ing from the former Yugoslavia itself. When I’m free but have rehearsals the next a small village in eastern Croatia, and relatives, essentially. In 2017, Croats aged 15 and over real- purchases in Croatia than in Poland. in Rijeka on June 29. source on over 90 Yugoslav WWII monu- during his first visit to the region in 2015. "I'm literally working on it every single mornings, my evenings are uneventful. I try is in the middle of packing for the In terms of accommodation type, ised 4.3 million of these same-day vis- That is why some Polish people take Tourism's contribution to Croatia's ments built between 1960 and 1990, con- His rental car got stuck in a ravine, and day. Most of the free time that I have I spend to go for a walk, or maybe sit in some smoke- summer vacation. the largest number of nights was spent its, 3.8 million [88.8 per cent] of which their own basics from Poland," Wojtasz gross domestic product GDP is by taining pictures, geographical coordinates, Niebyl felt the situation was so hopeless developing it further and further. I feel it's free café and read a book. Since I moved "If we didn't have relatives in in non-commercial accommodation were for private purposes. told BIRN. far the highest in Europe and has in- their current state of repair and tips on how that he briefly considered abandoning almost my responsibility to keep the ball to around Slavija square, I also like inviting Omis,I this summer we would be soak- owned by relatives and friends. During summer, one-day trips are In the first six months of 2018, 1.3 mil- creased by 0.7 per cent year-on-year to to reach them. the car, stopping the project altogether rolling and make sure that the content and friends over and making food or mixing drinks ing our feet in the washbowl," she says They are among the lucky ones. Ac- organized every week from Thursday lion tourists from Poland visited Croa- a whopping 19.6 per cent in 2017. at my place. But what sets Niebyl's website apart from and leaving the region, but was saved by information on my website is as accurate bitterly. cording to Croatia's Bureau of Statistics, to Sunday and on every non-working tia, making it one of Poland's most pop- Some experts question whether al- the many others extolling the aesthetic val- a Bosnian family who were having dinner and detailed as possible," Niebyl explains. "We carry everything that we can put of the total population aged 15 and over, holiday. Departures are early in the ular holiday destinations, especially as lowing tourism to supply such a big If I want to go out, I like the cocktails in Bar ue of these monuments is that he decided nearby. He also sees the monuments as teaching in the trunk of the car. Together with 56.9 per cent of them, 2.1 million, did not morning and return around 7pm. Agen- they can get there by car. share of Croatia's GDP is good for long- Central [Kralja Petra 59] or Ben Akiba [Brace to dig deeper into their histories, which are They organised their village to pull out valuable universal lessons about identity the beach equipment and clothing, go on any private trips with overnight cies charge a modest fee for such trips The driving distance between War- term economic stability. Krsmanovic 6]. I like going out to places in often completely omitted from much of the his car and later invited him for dinner and and memory. we have the non-perishable food and stays in 2017 at all. of around 13 euros per person. saw and Split is 1,437 kilometres, and They worry what will take its place Savamala and Beton Hala, when I can afford to available online content, including Kempe- rakija, turning a potential catastrophe into "It has made me think so much about the drink, which we bought here in a super- The most common reason for not go- By comparison, the average price of a takes at least 12 hours – and is just doable. if trends change and Croatia becomes stay out late. naers's initial project. a pleasant occasion. idea of memory. So much of the local con- market, or grew in our garden," she said. ing on overnight stays, which 55.2 per tourist apartment in Croatia is 63 euros Still, it would be less uncomfortable if less popular. Some see that this lack of context re- Although he stresses his positive expe- flicts boiled down to the idea of memory In their hot and cluttered car, the cent of people mentioned, was a simple per day, as the online offers posted by the Poles did not try to save money by Goran Rihelj, owner and editor of When I really want to let my hair down, I love go- duced these memorials of very traumatic riences in the region and help he received and how the history is written and memo- family will make a journey of some 700 lack of cash. Croatian Tportal indicate. carrying their own buckwheat, cereal tourist website HrTurizam.hr, says Cro- ing out for live music in Reka, Galeb and Kajak, events to what was dubbed 'clickbait con- from local researchers, his work was on oc- rialised," he explained. kilometres to the seaside. When BIRN asked the Croatian Tour- Pices vary from place to place, of or cans of Polish beer all the way from atia may be storing up trouble in future. all again on Zemun’s Danube embankment. crete'. casions met with disbelief by some locals, "Studying these monuments, you come Like many other Croats, they try to ist Board (HTZ) what the best solution course. In the so-called Pearl of the Poland. "When one country is so dependent They have a great, wild atmosphere and bring There was even some tasteless uses of who have either themselves lost interest in across so many amazingly interesting con- avoid serious shopping at the Croatian for domestic tourists would be, it said Adriatic, Dubrovnik, the most famous "The prices unpleasantly surprised on one sector, and especially on tour- back lots of memories. the monuments, such as the recent case the stories behind the monuments or are flicts and issues that have been persisting resorts. that prices always reflect the relation- Croatian tourist destination, the aver- us. A meal in the restaurant costs about ism, where there are factors that can- of the flower-shaped memorial at the Jase- even hostile to those who don't want these for so long. Getting this greater understand- "What we need to buy there is bread ship between supply and demand and age apartment price per day is 84 eu- 20 euros, beer in a pub is about 4 or 5, not be affected, instability can bring the Natasa will be performing at Operosa opera novac concentration camp in Croatia being stories to be forgotten. ing made me a more thoughtful and analyt- and milk, and ice-cream for the kids," advised less well-off locals to go on holi- ros – exactly 10 per cent of the average breakfast toast costs 3 euros ... Croatia entire country into big problems," he festival’s production of Karmen in Herceg Novi, used by an Australian company to sell sun- "Some people have a difficult relationship ical person and more open to the idea that she said. day off-season. monthly wage of 840 euros. is beautiful, but I will not go there sun- wrote on July 3. Montenegro on 24 and 25 August. glasses. with these monuments and some foreigner every story has more than one side to it." 10 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, July 13 - Thursday, July 26, 2018 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, July 13 - Thursday, July 26, 2018 11 OUT AND ABOUT DINING OUT

Celebrate Film in Belgrade and an addition of chopped spring Europe at Palic Insight: onions, were excellent and authentic. We were happy to sample them in Bel- From July 14 to 20, the In- Sommelier’s grade. ternational Palic Film Festival Five Must-See corner One of the three mains that we had claims that the small lake HILTON ordered turned out to be great, one me- town of Palic will become the diocre, and one a failure. “European capital of culture". SKY LOUNGE Corner Wine Teriyaki Salmon (glazed in soy-based Subotica founded this festival Monuments in Serbia sauce) with pak choi and wasabi potato in 1992 as a small series of BELGRADE European film screenings, purée was close to fantastic. A beautiful Top-notch wines on the piece of salmon, it was done perfectly, but since then the festival They may look rooftops of the city has continued to grow and soft and moist, with a great texture. The became an official European now like scenic Pavle GOLICIN potato purée was combined with just the right amount of wasabi to give it a Film Festival in 2003. Else? Where props for sci-fi mov- t’s summer time and we distinct taste and a nice light green col- The festival’s mission is to need a terrace with a view. our. The pak choi was altered with a lo- show the best European films ies – but each of So, this time, there is no cal variety of greens – chard and green doubt where to go; the to demonstrate the power I asparagus. This combination rounded Serbia’s Partisan-era recently opened Sky Lounge of art in fulfilling the needs restaurant in the Hilton up into a fresh, delicate fusion of Japa- of humanity. Through the monuments has provides the perfect space to nese and Mediterranean cuisines, a festival, the organisers wish spend an hour or two over the true delight. to demonstrate the priceless a fascinating and food, chitchatting with friends Pork ribs, slow cooked in BBQ sauce quality of art and its impor- at the rooftop. and served on a bed of mashed po- tance to the human spirit. The moving human The wine list in Sky Lounge tatoes, was our only venture outside Hilton is done well, with all movies selected are meant to Asian cuisine. The ribs were tasty, but the necessary information ask questions about destiny, story to tell. not really tender, as if they’d been de- beauty, and diversity with and sorted out by the book. It includes some 90 or so labels, prived of a crucial 30 minutes in the regards to Europe. about a third of them Serbian. oven. However, the barbecue sauce Chitra BALAKRISHAN It has a nice depth and offers excelled, toning the otherwise boring This year, fourteen films are plenty of opportunities to pair pork and potato purée with that nice, part of the festival’s of- pomeniks" – abstract- the wine with food. About smoky, sour and sweet taste. ficial selection that will be Slobodiste, Krusevac Photo: Bandzimir/ Wikicommons Bubanj, Nis Photo: Mikica Andrejic / Wikicommons 16 wines are available by the looking Yugoslav World Singaporean glass noodles with veg- screened at Palic’s Summer glass, including bubbles and War II monuments – etables, eggs and prawns did not meet Stage and are competing for dessert wines, which is good the honours such as Best Film have become a source of practice. expectations. The noodles were au- and Best Director. However, fascination in the West in Unlike the menu, the wine thentic, but slightly overcooked. The "Srecent years, inspiring everything from list isn’t available on the web- taste lacked any finesse. there are nearly a dozen other site of Hilton Sky Lounge, so film programmes that are science fiction movies to music videos. We ended our meal with an Asian However, contrary to what some ar- you can’t familiarize yourself Pavlova, a modern deconstruction of screened in different loca- with the available wines and ticles suggest, spomeniks aren't just the the popular meringue-based cake with tions in Subotica and Palic, prepare yourself before reach- which include Parallels and futuristic monuments of an ideological ing the restaurant. its elements randomly scattered on Encounters in Eastern Europe, regime. Each has a distinct history, pur- When it comes to pair- the plate, giving it a meadow-like ap- Young Spirit of Europe, Black pose, and style, and all of them are rooted ing wine with the time pearance. What caught our eye was an Sea Countries in Focus, and in a very human desire to remember the of the year, Sauvignon interesting combination of ingredients Best of Europe 2017. The suffering of others. Blanc and summer are a per- – green basil ice cream, blueberry me- different categories of films Although a great number of them, of fect match. Since there is an ringue, mango chantilly cream, mango authentic representation of all attempt to provoke thought varying styles and sizes, are dotted all jelly and dry raspberries. Sauvignon Blanc on the list – and give political, cultural, around former Yugoslavia and are listed Sonata by Jeremic winery – I However, the actual combination and social context to current in resources such as the Spomenik Da- had no doubt what to order. on the plate was quite different to the life in Europe. tabase website, we have selected five This light to medium- one described on the menu. Mango ice great Serbian monuments that everyone bodied Sauvignon Blanc has a cream with blueberries, raspberries Palic Film Festival is also should try to see. clean feel, with a fresh, crispy [both dry and fresh] and blackberries organising an exhibition about and refreshing taste. Just right made almost no contrast to the dotted for a summer terrace, despite Yugoslav and Serbian cinema BELGRADE JEWISH mango chantilly cream. We asked our Kadinjaca Photo: Vanilica / Wikicommons Sumarice, Kragujevac Photo: Mofesty / Wikicommons the weather, which wasn’t between 1947 and 1980 that CEMETERY HOLOCAUST waitress if they had served us the dish will open July on 17. exactly ideal when we visited MEMORIAL Serb victims. Others believe it alludes to Workers' Battalion to evacuate civilians The shape of the spomenik is an ab- Sky Lounge. Luxurious, dark interior of the restaurant is best suited for night time visits. Photo: Courtesy of Hilton Belgrade that we had ordered. Very politely, she how the men, women, and children were from Kadinjaca and Uzice, under gun- stract representation of a bird with a Jeremic winery is close told us that probably another ice cream All of the festival’s program- Located at the Sephardic cemetery executed on the hill. fire. The 14-metre height of the sculpture damaged wing, struggling to fly, symbol- to Belgrade, situated on the had been served, and quickly brought a ming is free of charge. Visit in Zvezdara, a short bus ride from Bel- The complex includes a white marble represents the 14 kilometres that the bat- izing the youthful innocence of boys who hills around Smederevo, an scoop of the basil-flavoured one. To us, www.palicfilmfestival.com to grade's Republic Square, this was the first wall with relief panels of guns, bodies lined talion traveled from Uzice in mid-winter whose flight to adulthood was cut short area well known for wines it actually tasted like fennel, but it was see complete program for the throughout history, as far Sky Lounge Is Yet to monument designed by famed architect up for execution, bodies that have fallen for the battle. Inside the circle of concrete by horrific violence. certainly more interesting and much festival when it is released. back as Roman times. The Bogdan Bogdanovic and was built in 1952 after execution, fists of people defying the structures are forms that vaguely resem- One of the most respected spomeniks sandy soil, combined with better at bringing out the flavours of the Drina Regatta Holds in memory of the Jewish victims of the Germans, and a poem by Ivan Vuckovic, ble human bodies and faces, as if they are among the people of Serbia, it marks a de- the constant breez blowing Reach Culinary Heights berries. 25th Water Carnival Holocaust in Yugoslavia. about victory over the Nazis. These simple trapped and in pain. fining moment in an architectural trend from the Carpathians and the Our time in Sky Lounge was pleas- The spomenik consists of two 10.5-me- reliefs convey the ruthless and methodi- The latest addition to the complex in which spomenik designs became more nearby Danube, are wonderful ant; we loved the concept and the This year will mark the twenty- tre concrete and iron wings separated in cal murders that took place at Bubanj. honours the death of Yugoslav president- abstract. conditions for the vineyards ting outside. At the time of our visit, the A section on the menu is dedicated quality of the ingredients offered with the middle by an iron menorah. The in- Additionally, the park has the original for-life Josip Broz Tito. Named the "Parti- and lend the wine the typical The newly opened restaurant’s biggest asset, the rooftop to sushi rolls, all of them original and every dish. But we must admit that we fifth year of the Drina Regatta, varietal characteristics of tended symbolism of the two wings with Bubanj memorial, which is a stone mark- san Woods", it includes 88 trees for each terrace, was closed and the furniture over-the-top, packed with pricey ingre- had expected more from this five-star which takes place from July SLOBODISTE Sauvignon Blanc. 18 to 22 in Bajina Basta. It regards to Judaism is unknown. Some er with a star, built earlier, in 1950. year of his life, as well as a path around MEMORIAL COMPLEX The service at the Hilton is Hilton’s rooftop outside covered. It looked a little sad dients. In general, we believe that less is rooftop experience. There is room for is one of the most popular theorize that the wings symbolize Ashke- them with artillery cannons from World fine and friendly. The glass- and abandoned, construction-like. more, but given such a list we opted for improvement in almost every segment events in Western Serbia nazi and Sephardic Jews, or that they are KADINJACA War II. This memorial on Bagdala Hill, about ware is perfect, so you can en- restaurant scores Even the far-and-wide view of Belgrade the most complex roll. Our roll, called – from the atmosphere to the food on and the main water-related two tablets holding the Ten Command- MEMORIAL COMPLEX two kilometres south of Krusevac – about joy your wines from the proper rooftops, opening through the wall-to- Crazy Maki, with tempura shrimp, crab the plate. We left with a feeling that Sky event taking place there in ments. SUMARICE MEMORIAL PARK two hours' drive from Belgrade – is dedi- Riedel glasses. However, as one brilliantly with its wall glass façade, was not very inviting stick, salmon, avocado, cucumber, Lounge is still a work in progress and finds so often in Belgrade, the the summer. The regatta both The path to the monument is con- This monument in a village about 14 cated to the Partisan soldiers and civil- with all the obstacles in sight. spicy sauce and Japanese flying fish will be happy to return once they settle bottle was neither presented commemorates both ancient structed from the remains of homes in kilometers northwest of Uzice, a three- The "Monument to Executed Students", ians killed in Krusevac while under Nazi sushi, dumplings The interior uses a lot of first-class roe – tobiko, was very enjoyable and down and put their advantages to full traditions and modern tourism nor the wine poured in front of Dorcol, the traditional Jewish area of the and-a-half-hour drive from Belgrade, or "Interrupted Flight" – on the Desankin occupation between 1941 and 1944. us; this is disappointing, given material but is not overly original – no certainly a new experience. It is a wider use. on the Drina. In the past, over city, that were destroyed by the bombings commemorates the members of the Venac road near Kragujevac, a two-hour Designed by Bogdan Bogdanovic, it the high-end image of the ho- and salmon – but surprise there, of course. The choice roll, with an interesting layered struc- 100,000 people visited the and Nazi occupation. Workers' Battalion who died fighting Nazi bus ride from Belgrade – commemorates was finished in 1965 after five years of tel. The mark-up in Sky Lounge of a dark palette, combined with brass ture, made with a couple of concentric SKY LOUNGE, regatta, coming from Serbia Inside the memorial, an urn contains forces at the Battle of Kadinjaca on No- several hundred Serbian schoolchildren construction that included re-contouring is average, even good, for the somehow it still and bronze accents as well as the use circles of Japanese seaweed nori, cut in HILTON BELGRADE and other countries. The the remains of 197 Jews and Bogda- vember 29, 1941. and their teachers that the Nazis execut- the ground to make it appropriate for Bog- standard of Belgrade hotels. of comfortable but bulky furniture, cre- pieces, thinner than usual and packed Address: Kralja Milana 35, regatta itself will take place All in all, Sky Lounge novic himself who, although not Jewish, Initially, it was a stone pyramid, con- ed on October 21, 1941. danovic's vision. feels like a work in ates an impression that the space was with the taste of seafood. Phone: +381 11 7555700, on Saturday at 11am. It is 25 deserves a chance; it remains wished to be laid to rest there. structed in 1952, which remains at the When designing the memorial for the The complex consists of five main ele- designed solely with night-time visits Gyoza, pan-fried Japanese dump- Price Guide: 3,000-5,000 dinars kilometres long and takes to be seen how it will position centre of the park. However, the Uzice massacre, the planning committee want- ments. To the west lies the "Valley of the progress. in mind. lings stuffed with vegetables, garlic and per person for three courses without about three-and-a-half hours itself on the Belgrade restau- BUBANJ MEMORIAL PARK and Bajina Basta municipalities, along ed a novel kind of war memorial that was Living", made up of 12 wings with differ- The menu focuses on modern Asian chicken mixture, served with soy sauce drinks (from Perucac to Rogacica), rant scene. I would definitely but the celebrations last five with the army veterans' organisation, not a single central monument, but which ent patterns, carved of stone, and placed come again – hopefully on a Duda&Vlada cuisine. A selection of meat dishes, sunny day – to fully enjoy the days. Regatta is open to all Often referred to as "The Three Fists" later added more elements. made use of the entire park to represent in a path. In the centre, the semi-circular prime cuts and matured meat, is writ- for its three monoliths, this spomenik, Architect Aleksandar Djokic and de- the atrocity. stone "Solar Arch" is fitted into the earth view and slowly sip a glass of he long-awaited Hilton ten as a separate section at the bottom. non-motorised boats and you Sauvignon Blanc. ONCE KOVAČ, ALWAYS KOVAČ can register on the spot. about a kilometre south of Nis and about signer Miodrag Zivkovic added new Although a museum and over a dozen between two burial mounds that hold the Belgrade finally opened its We decided to leave the cuts for anoth- ONCE ”KAFANA”, ALWAYS ”KAFANA” three hours by bus from Belgrade, was de- structures, finished in 1979, including sculptures cover the park, the "Inter- remains of many local civilians and fight- doors in March at a promi- er visit; this time we were going Asian. RESTAURANT KOVAČ The events include perfor- signed by Ivan Sabolic and Mihajlo Mitro- a museum, called the "Spomen-Dom rupted Flight" monument is the defining ers from the war. Basic Info Rating nent location in Kralja We started with a famous Thai Tom modern ethno restaurant mances of folk and pop music vic and built in 1963 after three years of Kadinjaca" and a series of concrete slabs symbol of the park, and indeed of Kragu- Other components include the Slobo- Milana street, between Yum hot and sour soup, with red curry, along with tastings of home- work. painted white called "Alley of the Work- jevac. diste Memorial House encircled by stone TSlavija square and Beogradjanka tower. prawns, mushrooms and fresh corian- Overall VERY GOOD made cakes and fish soup. It honours over 10,000 victims, in- er's Battalion". Designed primarily by Miodrag Zivko- sculptures, a large amphitheatre, and a Two restaurants operate within the ho- der. On Friday aftrenoon, brave cluding Roma, Jews, and Serbs, killed by The tallest and widest set of concrete vic, the monument was completed in field with a cross. Wine selection VERY GOOD tel: Two Kings restaurant on the ground We found Sky Lounge’s version quite attendees will jump from a the Nazis between February 1942 and pylons contains an opening resembling a 1963 after two years' construction. It con- Bogdanovic intended the parts of the Wine service GOOD floor serves contemporary Serbian cui- rough, quite the opposite of the “deli- nearby bridge into the Drina September 1944 when they brought pris- bullet hole. In the middle of the complex sists of two big concrete monoliths that complex to represent a journey into an- Wine pricing €20 - €380 sine, while the rooftop bar and restau- cate yet spicy" we expected from pre- River. The stay in the official oners from concentration camps to the is an amphitheatre, the "Plateau of Free- create a "V" shape. One side of the struc- other world. The original Solar Arch was rant Sky Lounge specializes in Asian vious experiences. The fragrances of camp during the event costs Bubanj hillside for execution. dom". ture has impressions of faces, depicting a symbol of the gateway into death, and cuisine and prime cuts of meat. herbs and lime were obscured by the 500 dinars [4.25 euros] per Some interpret the different sized mon- The bullet hole in the tallest sculpture the children and the teachers murdered leads towards the valley of wings that rep- Wine and VERY GOOD We were visiting for lunch on a rainy red curry paste, the dish thereby losing Bulevar Oslobođenja 221, Tel: 011 2462 343 www.restorankovac.com night. Visit regata.rs for more oliths as representing Roma, Jews, and symbolizes the violent struggle of the here. resent liberated souls reaching the afterlife. food pairing summer’s day, not appropriate for sit- its finesse and layers of taste. information. 12 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, July 13 - Thursday, July 26, 2018 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, July 13 - Thursday, July 26, 2018 13 BELGRADE INSIDER ARTS

Continued from page 1 Final view of award-winning students’ Art

This exhibition of artwork created by stu- dents of the Academy THE BLOCKS THROUGH Arts in brief of Fine Arts who have received awards is clos- ing on July 14, so stop by the Gallery of the Academy [Knez Mihailo- va 53] to check out their LOCALS' EYES work in the nick of time. The gallery is open from 10am to 8pm. Entrance Their world is little known to tourists – or even is free.

to some Belgraders – but four residents of Hands of Gold at New Belgrade’s ‘blokovi’ wouldn’t swap their Jane Doe Store The Jane Doe Concept communities for anything. Store doesn’t cease to surprise with new con- cepts. On Saturday, July 14, at 8pm, visitors will have a chance to see a collaborative exhibi- tion of jewelry by Rouch Mandy DUIJN Edges and Milica Tresac, combining antique or tourists – and Belgraders that have never objects, recycled metal visited or lived on the "other" side of the and industrial design. Friver – New Belgrade is an abstract space of Entrance is free. similar-looking buildings and tower blocks. When strolling through the urban landscape BELEF of the "blokovi" and meeting their inhabitants, 2018 ends however, it becomes clear that, despite some with concert similarities, each part has its own atmosphere, features and stories. Vjenceslav Richter. Yugoslav Pavilion at Expo 58. 1958. Brussels, Belgium. Photo: Archive of Yugoslavia, courtesy of The Museum of Modern Art Another edition of the Milos, Aleksandra, Marija and Marko, all living Belgrade Summer in New Belgrade, take us on a tour of their blocks. Festival BELEF is slowly They explain what it was like to grow up there coming to an end. The and talk about what they like – and dislike – about festival will close with a their neighbourhoods New York’s MoMA Shines a Light on concert by violin virtuo- so Roman Simovic and the St George Strings at Socialist Yugoslav Architecture Ilija M. Kolarac Endow- ment [Studentski trg 5] Photos: Mandy Dujin on Sunday, July 15, at Srdjan GARCEVIC DERIDED IDEAS chitectural heritage behind neo-Classical ed] experiments with reinterpretations of 8pm. Tickets cost 600 Marko Modrinic (26) facades. regional architecture,” he said. dinars [five euros]. Milos Radulovic (37) n ugly, grey reflection of Viewed from abroad, Yugoslav archi- The plans of Japanese architect Kenzo “The density of these experiments is Profession: Student Civil Engineering life under Communism, or tecture suffers from its erroneous asso- Tange for the reconstruction of Skopje af- something unparalleled.” Exhibition Profession: Architect and Lives together with: Grandmother, parents and a radical, forward-looking ciation with the Eastern bloc – poverty ter a catastrophic earthquake in 1963 will Under Josip Broz Tito, who led Yugosla- honours graphic designer cat Djuro expression of an egalitar- and squalor behind faceless, concrete be included in the MoMA exhibition, part via from the end of World War Two until G12 HUB Lives with: Brother Location: Block 72, fourth floor ian utopia, built for the monoliths. of a collection of more than 400 exhibits, his death in 1980, architecture was placed Location: Block 3, seventh floor massesA and not the privileged few? It has been similarly underappreciated models, photos, drawings and film reels. in the service of a rapidly industrialising The Belgrade art scene What makes your block Love it or hate it, the brutalist archi- at home, forever tied in the minds of much It will highlight the work of architects and idealised ‘utopian’ society, resulting is paying homage to When did you move here? different than the other ones? tectural heritage of socialist Yugoslavia of the post-Yugoslav elite to now-derided little known outside their own borders – in communal apartment blocks, stunning G12 HUB, an art and Seven years ago, after my grandfather passed It is relatively small, so everyone knows eve- has not fared well over the quarter of a ideas of socialism, universalism, multi- the likes of Edvard Ravnikar, Vjenceslav public buildings and even affordable hotels technology platform away. He was the first inhabitant of this apart- Marija Gajic (forever young) ryone else. Not many people move away from century since the disintegration of the ethnic harmony and, sadly, anti-fascism. Richter, Milica Steric, Bogdan Bogdanovic for manual labourers. Tens of thousands with a focus on per- ment and got it through his work at a bank, back this block. Another difference is that it was not country that created it. Even some of its On an aesthetic level, brutalism is com- and Svetlana Kana Radevic. of apartments were built for Yugoslav formance art, through Aleksandra Djordjevic (18) in the mid-sixties. Although I did not grow up in Profession: Copywriter, marketing manager and built during the communist era, so the build- finest examples have been destroyed by pared unfavourably with the bourgeois, Gathering all the material was no citizens, Kulic noted, most of them paying a retrospective show this block, I spent many of my childhood sum- consultant ings look nice and white. What was retained design, neglect or the market forces of pre-WWII era. easy feat given the wars of Yugoslavia’s close attention to comfort and aesthetics. of some of the best Profession: Student of International Relations mers here, playing outside. Lives with: Zika the cat from those times is the open space between capitalism. Even the Belgrade-born performance breakup and the challenges faced by the In contrast, said Sterli, contemporary performance art pieces Lives with: Grandparents, mother, aunt and sister Location: Block 21, third floor the buildings. In this way, it looks different to Now, a new exhibition at New York’s artist Marina Abramovic has described states it spawned. architecture is increasingly divorced that were shown at this Location: Block 44, fourth floor Did you see a lot of changes over the newer blocks, where people are packed Museum of Modern Art, MoMA, hopes to the city where she grew in the fifties and “Much of the material we thought from social purpose and “becoming a lux- venue. The exhibition at those years? Why did you decide to like sardines and you can see which television inspire a reappraisal of Yugoslavia’s archi- sixties as looking like “the leaders looked would never survive,” Vladimir Kulic, an ury commodity for glossy magazines.” Dom Omladine [Make- When you were younger, did you enjoy Not really. There's been an influx of young fami- move here five years ago? programme your neighbour is watching. Lastly, tectural legacy, its quality, innovation and through the lens of someone else’s Com- architectural historian at Florida Atlantic Balanced between the West and the donska 22] opens on living in block 44? lies as the original tenants slowly pass away, but The apartment used to belong to my grandfather. block 72 is the headquarters of the Vandal Boys, devotion to social purpose. munism and built something less good University and co-curator of the exhibi- Soviet Union, pursuing a hybrid, more July 17 and will remain Not really. I was a shy kid and had other interests other than that life pretty much remains the He chose this particular area, because his friends an extreme Partizan supporters' group. You can Opening on July 15 and running until and less functional and more fucked up”. tion, told the July 10 preview. liberal form of socialism than those be- than the rest of the children from the block. I same. The elevator and the facades of the build- from the army moved here as well. Their wives see their graffiti everywhere. January 2019, Towards a Concrete Uto- Social media has brought some lim- “A lot disappeared during the war and hind the Iron Curtain, Yugoslavia made on display through Au- liked to read a lot. But I always loved this apart- ings are the same and, most importantly, there knew each other, and they brought up their chil- pia: Architecture in Yugoslavia, 1948– ited reassessment, popularising the most much was destroyed during the privatisa- what MoMA said in a press release for the gust 3. Entrance is free. ment. It is small for the six of us and it gets very is still a strong sense of community. When I walk dren together. It was a real community, a spirit that What is your favourite 1980 promises to shine a light not only on iconic and photogenic examples of Yu- tion [of ex-Yugoslav state-owned compa- exhibition was a “significant yet thus-far loud sometimes, but we live together like one big around, I see children on roller blades, dog own- I enjoyed as a child. My apartment is very cosy. You memory of growing up here? the impressive and sometimes puzzling goslav architecture, from striking WWII nies] when things were thrown into the understudied body of modernist archi- Polet happy family. ers meeting up and people discussing their day can feel that it has been loved since the beginning. When I was ten years old, there was still a bun- aesthetics of the period, but on the social, monuments to the brutalist tower blocks trash.” tecture, whose forward-thinking contri- Opens Art on one of the benches. It is very easy to have a ker. One day, my friends and I discovered that economic and geo-political context of of New Belgrade. Kulic noted, for example, the archive butions still resonate today.” Market Do you like your block now? friendly conversation. What is the best thing one of the entrances was not locked. Inside, we some of its most iconic works. But even then, their merit is seen in their material of famed Zagreb-born, Sarajevo- Though idiosyncratic, it was connected Definitely, I appreciate it more than before for about living in block 21? found another door that was not locked either: The exhibition represents the first by exoticism and ‘strangeness’, UFOs devoid based architect Juraj Neihardt, who de- to the world beyond Yugoslavia’s borders, Sundays are ideal for several reasons. Through my folklore lessons, I What else do you like Everything is focused on making your life easier. a door to the storeroom of the supermarket. a major museum dedicated solely to the of context. Only this month, an Australian signed the Bosnian parliament building. too, influenced by Western post-war archi- strolling through mar- met many other people from the block. I like to about living here? You have little cafés and restaurants everywhere, There was candy everywhere! We took it all, architecture of socialist Yugoslavia. It is eyewear brand was forced to apologise af- The archive survived the long siege of Sara- tects and exported to countries across the kets, which is why the hang out with them and discover new places that If I look outside, it almost seems like the build- and you can enjoy one of the many concerts in Sava had a marshmallow fight, and ate so many of also the first undertaken by Martino Sti- ter using a monument at the WWII Jaseno- jevo, 1992-95, guarded by Neihardt’s daugh- Middle East and Africa as part of the Non- popular bar Polet, in the I never even knew existed. Moreover, I started ings were planted in a forest. There are trees Centar, just around the corner. There is a post office, them that I never had marshmallows since. Of erli, The Philip Johnson Chief Curator of vac concentration camp in Croatia as part ter, who lent it to MoMA for the exhibition. Aligned project pursued by Tito. Cetinjska Street nightlife to realise that everything is connected to my everywhere. I have a swallows' nest on my a vet, a shop that works 24/7, and you can reach the course, we told all our other friends about it and Architecture and Design at MoMA, since of an ad campaign for sunglasses. The exhibition will also feature the best district [Cetinjska 15], is personal memories. Take the benches in this balcony and the other day, in a field nearby, I river within five minutes to walk or run there. Basi- block 72 became every kid's favourite block. he took on the role in early 2015. Such disregard is not uncommon. Yu- UNPARALLELED of Yugoslav design, from the beloved K-67 organizing an art market street, for example. I have sat on every single one. saw a duel between two male pheasants. You cally, the block has everything you need. Unfortunately, the lock was replaced soon “I was fascinated by the richness, the goslav-era architecture has suffered from EXPERIMENTATION modular street kiosk designed by Sasa J. on Sunday, July 22, Every time I pass by, a memory pops up. There is would never see that downtown – simply too afterwards. abundance and the high quality of many neglect and wanton vandalism through Maechtig to the Rex folding chair by Niko open for all interested a bench where I used to meet my best friends and, much concrete. Are there things you do of the things... that Yugoslavia produced the years of nation-building since Yugo- The result, said Kulic, is a demonstra- Kralj, some of which have for been part of artists, craftspeople on another, I broke up with my boyfriend. not like as well? Is there something you do not like in the post-war period, which I came to slavia’s demise, as governments sought to tion of how far architects of the period MoMA’s design collection since the 1970s. and, of course, all arts From an architect's point of view, Of course, not everything is perfect. The walls are very about your block? see as on equal par with anything that distance themselves from the common experimented in Yugoslavia. “It really shows that there is an abun- Would you like to stay here what do you think of your block? thin, so I cannot play the piano or practice singing. It People from other blocks come here to park was built in the post-war period any- state they once shared and burnish pride What defines Yugoslav architecture dant presence of design culture... in a so- and crafts aficionados. for the rest of your life? As a whole, it looks a bit chaotic. Some people would echo across the entire block, all the way up to their cars. When I was younger, the lot between where,” Stierli said at a press preview of in a glorified, distant past. is the “radical diversity of experiments” cialist country. It was an aspect we tend- Entrance is free for I might move abroad for a couple of years, but I have renovated their exteriors that do not block 30. Another problem is how to install air con- the buildings was completely empty. It was the exhibition on July 10. The greatest damage has been done in on every possible level, said Kulic. “From ed not to see,” said Stierli. visitors. The participa- will always return to this block. My life, family and match the building's original style. But I would ditioning in these old buildings. I have to collect the our field where we played every day. Now, “Our project looks at a part of the world Skopje, where a nationalist government the level of organisation of space, engage- “We tended to think of Eastern Europe tion fee for exhibitors memories are here, and that is very valuable. I say it looks endearing; as if the buildings have water in a bucket on the balcony. Sometimes, I forget there is almost no space left for children to play that because of Cold War politics was not in power from 2006 to 2016 set about ment with technologies and materials and Yugoslavia as this sad place... where is 1,000 dinars [8.5 would never trade that for anything in the world. "grown", organically. to empty it on time and there are puddles everywhere. because of all the cars. seen the way it should have been seen.” disguising the city’s rich Yugoslav-era ar- down to the aesthetic level [which includ- everything is grey and there is no pleasure.” euros]. 14 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, July 13 - Thursday, July 26, 2018 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, July 13 - Thursday, July 26, 2018 15 GOING OUT BELGRADE INSIGHT RECOMMENDS The Hidden Splavs of New Belgrade Fancy a splav off popular with young businesspeople Belgrade Insight Team Recommends and a bit more expensive than the the beaten track norm. The food is excellent at Kota 70, which is one reason why the splav is Finding your way around Belgrade’s vibrant food and going out scene can and away from so popular. The menu is pretty diverse be tough without a local guiding you. That is why the Belgrade Insight and a meal will cost about five euros the hard-drinking per head, which is not pricey compared team decided to compile a list of their favourite hangouts to help you have to similar restaurant splavs located a fantastic summer in the city! tourist crowd? New closer to the city centre. You can hear live music at Kota 70 every Wednesday Belgrade’s ‘blok’ while weekends are reserved for DJs, although it’s not really a place where CAFES FISH RESTAURANT Cvece Zla, Nevesinjska 12 Pekara Aca, Svetogorska 25 neighbourhoods Kafe Kozmeticar, Radoslava Grujica 25 people go to dance. As the name Pekara Rankovic, Brace Kovac 50 Bistro Grad Hometown Food, Uzun suggests, it’s located on the outskirts of Koffein, Cara Lazara 13 / Cara Dusana 65 FishZelenis, Karadjordjeva 2-4 Sarlo, Dobracina 59b are home to Mirkova 5 , Kralja Petra 91 Blok 70. Smokvica, Kralja Petra 73 Pasa, Kej Oslobodjenja 7, Zemun Pekarska Radionica Lokal, Alekse Nenadovica 24 Saran, Kej Oslobodjenja 53, Zemun numerous relaxing COFFEE PLACES CRUISE COCKTAIL BAR Przionica D59B, Dobracina 59b SPLAVS VEGETARIAN/LIGHT alternatives. Supernatural/Gastronaut Bar (non- RESTAURANTS Koffein, Cara Lazara 13 / Cara Dusana 65 Brodic na Savi, Savski kej This cocktail bar stands out with its smoking), Gospodar Jevremova 23 Uzitak, Hilandarska 4 20/44, Usce bb look – an oddly shaped wooden house. Mayka, Kosancicev Venac 2 Przionica D59B, Dobracina 59b Slep, Usce bb David GALIC While it doesn’t look that amazing, it’s TRADITIONAL RESTAURANTS Mezestoran Dvoriste, Svetogorska 46 Lokal, Alekse Nenadovica 24 Pristan, Dunavski bb a good place to relax with a few drinks JazzaYoga, Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra 48 Kafeterija, Kralja Petra 16, Studentski hile most of on the terrace, particularly when it’s hot Dzakarta/Pivnica Tosin Bunar, Super Donkey, Krunska 26 Trg 13 and several other locations BARS Belgrade’s best- and the concrete of the New Belgrade Studentska 1 Aviator Coffee Explorer, Terazije 28 loved splavs – Bloks is sweltering. and several other locations Restoran Durmitor, Omladinskih ROAST RESTAURANTS Zaokret, Cetinjska 15 riverside boat clubs Most of the best New Belgrade splavs Kafograf, Bulevar Despota Stefana 81 Brigada 16a Meduza, Gospodar Jevremova 6 – are located close are located fairly close to each other, Mornar, Decanska 2 Restoran Uzelac, Pastroviceva 2 Lift, Cetinjska 15 toW the city centre, on either side of the but the area around Cruise Cocktail Bar CONTEMPORARY Restoran Lovac, Alekse Nenadovica 19 Dascara, Svetolika Rankovica 154, Brankov Bridge, they certainly aren’t is particularly crowded. And, because CAKE SHOPS Kafanica, Kneza Viseslava 66a Mladenovac BEER BARS the only ones. the bar doesn’t really have any music Restoran Sarajevski, Cara Dusana 32 Kafanica, Kneza Viseslava 66a Hidden treasures of the Belgrade program of its own, and basically plays Mandarina, Gracanicka 16 Stara Hercegovina, Carigradska 36 Nacionalna Klasa, Usce, Bulevar Kas Brewery, Pregrevica 4 riverside nightlife scene are also to a radio at a low level, the music from Poslasticarnica Suma, Simina 22a Dva Jelena, Skadarska 32 Mihajla Pupina 4 Kompas Pivo, Kumodraska/Bulevar Peka be found in the so-called “Blokovi” – nearby splavs seeps in and results in a Ispeci pa Reci, Gundulicev Venac 34 Tri Sesira, Skadarska 29 Dapcevica 240 literally “Blocks” – of New Belgrade. bit of an auditory mess. Fini, Svetozara Miletica 7 RESTAURANT GARDENS Dogma Brewery, Radnicka 3 The best aspect of these Still, it’s a fine place to go if you love Samo Pivo, Balkanska 13 neighbourhood splavs is probably cocktails and don’t want to break ITALIAN RESTAURANTS TRADITIONAL CAKE SHOPS Madera, Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra 43 Gunners Pub, Brace Jugovica 2a that most of them are geared towards the bank. The list of mixed drinks is Nacionalna Klasa, Usce, Bulevar Majstor i Margarita, Balkanska 16 Bombaj, Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra 208 locals looking to relax rather than to endless, and they only cost about two Mihajla Pupina 4 Cruise is a fine place to go if you love cocktails and enjoy the river. Photo: Courtesy of Cruise Club Orijent, Balkanska 36 COCKTAIL BARS foreigners, looking for excess. to five euros. Campania Trattoria, Kneza Sime , Molerova 33 Smokvica Molerova DJ, Svetozara Markovica 36 So if you’re seeking a more peaceful more “alternative” and plays a lot of day hangout on a hot summer Saturday, of the best foreign and domestic craft Markovica 10 Cvece Zla, Nevesinjska 12 Zlata, Kralja Milana 56 Bar Central, Kralja Petra 59 night on the river with good food, drinks, rock, jazz, blues and reggae music. The this is the place to be in New Belgrade. beers both on tap and in bottles. GUSAR Pizzagram, Francuska 35 Milica, Skadarska 45 Kultura Bar, Kralja Milutina 4 music and friends, try exploring these music theme is very prevalent; the bar The beer selection is huge, naturally. Amici Pizzeria, Nebojsina 8 INTERNATIONAL FAST FOOD Moskva, Terazije 20 Mama Shelter, Kneza Mihaila 54A New Belgrade neighbourhood splavs. is made from old audio cassettes and MINERS RAFT The Raft also offers fine pub food, such The place to be in New Belgrade if vinyl records hang on the walls. as burgers, wings and sausages. It is also you’re a rock ‘n’ roller, Gusar is a popular NON-EUROPEAN Fat Boys, Strahinjica Bana 3 ICE CREAM SHOPS WINE BARS PARADOKS MUSIC BAR If you want a dip in the water, this is the An offshoot of Miners Pub, the Dorcol a good place to check out the World Cup beer bar where it’s all about rock music, RESTAURANTS Burger House, Nikole Spasica 3 place to do it. Paradoks offers rubber floats bar that was a pioneer of craft beer bar matches this summer, as it has set up a drinking large quantities of lager and Tel Aviv Hummus House, Carice Milice Crna Ovca, Kralja Petra 58 Pampour Wine Bar, Njegoseva 28a When people think about relaxing and an outdoor shower that allow you to scene in Belgrade, Miners Raft takes huge video screen for the occasion. playing darts. La Taqueria, Gracanicka 7 3 / Kicevska 21 / Mihajila Pupina 10/9a Sapore Sladoled, Cara Lazara 15 Grape Wine & Coffee Bar, Dositejeva 13 on a splav, what usually comes to take a quick dive into the Sava River and that experience to the river. Of course, live rock bands play here as Istok, Gospodar Jevremova 50 Moritz Eis, Vuka Karadzica 11 and mind are lazy bags, a great view of the then shower off before grabbing a drink. Located close to Blok 44 and looking KOTA 70 well. If you’re looking for a smoky place SERBIAN FAST FOOD Marukoshi, Kapetan Misina 37 several other locations PLACES FOR river, a nice, steady breeze and a chill This is a very relaxed place, pet out at the Ada Medjica island, Miners that is all about beer, darts and loud Go Sushi, Svetozara Markovica 38 / TRADITIONAL MUSIC atmosphere. Paradoks Music Bar is all friendly and they also have tons of Raft gives this neighbourhood its own This New Belgrade splav is a bit guitars, Gusar is one of the best spots in Djordje Stanojevica 9b / Praska 34 Cevap kod Dekija, Strahinjica Bana 71 BUREK PLACES that, and then some. This place is a bit board games. If you’re looking for an all- craft beer bar where locals can enjoy all more upscale than the rest. It is very the entire city for that kind of fun. Drama Cevapi, Dositejeva 7a Kafana Gradimir, Milesevska 42a Mara, Novopazarska 14 Pekara Micic, Svetogorska 48 FINE DINING RESTAURANTS Dva Jelena, Skadarska 32 McDek, Maksima Gorkog 6 Pekara Trpkovic, Nemanjina 32 Sarajevski Cevap, Cara Dusana 32 Pekara Rankovic, Brace Kovac 50 Madera, Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra 43 K-Pop Festival at Tornado Wallace Throws Pekara Toma, Kolarceva 6-8 CLUBS Ebisu, Studentski Trg 9 BREAKFAST/BRUNCH Dom Omladine Sunday Party at 20/44 The Square, Studentski Trg 9 PLACES BAKERIES Drugstore, Bulevar Despota Stefana 115 Iris - New Balkan Cuisine, Sarajevska 54 Ben Akiba, Brace Krsmanovic 6 he long-awaited fourth edition of the K-Pop World ho says that Sundays are for rest and not for Tchaikovsky Restaurant (Hotel Filter, Kirovljeva 10 Pekara Micic, Svetogorska 48 KC Grad Cultural Centre, Brace Festival Serbia is on! The festival is on Monday, July clubbing? If you thought that nothing fun Moskva), Terazije 20 JaM, Knez Miletina 25 Nasa Pekara, Kajmakcalanska 5 Krsmanovic 4 23, starting at Dom Omladine [Makedonska 22] ever happens on Sundays, the 20/44 splav at 4pm, where the final round of the local K-Pop is here to prove you wrong with another dance competition will take place. After that, amazing booking. This time, the crew is Tthe festival moves to the Shake&Shake splav [Usce bb] for Wbringing Tornado Wallace, a Berlin-based Australian pro- the Ambassador’s Party at 8pm, where you will hear the ducer and DJ who club music experts consider the forerun- latest K-Pop hits and get a chance to bust your best K-Pop ner of the new wave of Melbourne’s electronic music scene. moves. His 2017 album Lonely Planet ditched the safe patch be- For those unfamiliar with the matter, K-Pop World Festival tween house and disco and set Wallace on a more interesting, Serbia is the official, Korean Embassy-organized and endorsed cerebral and atmospheric course. The party on 20/44 [Usce bb] branch of the worldwide series of festivals and events dedicated on Sunday, July 15, should be in the same key, especially consid- to popular Korean music. The festival is open to everyone and is ering it’s a matinée, starting around 6pm. Tickets cost 500 dinars [4 free of charge. Photo: Courtesy of the euros] at the door. Embassy of the Republic of Korea Sales & Marketing: Marija Petrovic Phone: +381 11 4030 302 Free Copy [email protected]

Subscription & Distribution: Publisher: BIRN d.o.o. Goran Knezevic Kolarceva 7/5, 11 000 Belgrade +381 63 562 265 Jazz Stars Bokante at BitefArtCafe Phone/Fax: +381 11 4030 300 [email protected] Surf at Drugstore’s Garden Venue BitefArtCafe Summer Stage at Kalemeg- Photo: Ivana Cutura dan Fortress is famous for organizing Editor in Chief: Gordana Igric Printing: POLITIKA stamparija d.o.o. Photo: Neda Mojsilovic A new series of summer parties at the Artan Lili at Ada’s Beer Garden perhaps the best live music events dur- 10-Hour Concrete Party at KPTM Barka Dilo at KC Grad now legendary Drugstore [Bulevar Des- ing the summer in Belgrade. This time, ISSN 1820-8339 = Belgrade Insight pota Stefana 115], more precisely at the Artan Lili is currently one of the most the club is bringing Bokante, a jazz su- BIRN editorial team: COBISS.SR-ID: 149132556 KPTM [Zorza Klemansoa 22] is famous Lovers of French Chanson should not club’s summertime Garden venue, has interesting and prolific indie rock bands pergroup consisting of Michael League, for its after-parties, but if you’re more of miss the concert of Barka Dilo, a band begun. Called Surf, it starts earlier than in Serbia and already has quite a big au- the cofounder of the legendary Snarky Gordana Andric, Marcus Tanner, an all-night clubber, check out the 10- that combines romantic French sounds most club events, at about 8pm. Expect dience, not just locally but in the region Puppy, and the amazing Malika Tirolien [email protected] Circulation: 2,000 hour Concrete Party with Luka Concrete with jazz and world music, in a matinée indie hip-hop, garage pop, psychedelia as well. Check them out on Friday, July on vocals. The concert on Thursday, July and Bojan Vukmirovic on Saturday, concert at KC Grad [Brace Krsmanovic 4] and rare grooves all around. Tickets for 20, at Subeerni Centar’s summer venue 26, starts at 10pm. Tickets cost from 800 July 14. Tickets should cost around 200 on Thursday, July 19, at 7pm. Tickets for the party on Thursday, July 19, cost 300 at the Ada Ciganlija Lake Beer Garden at dinars [7 euros] to 1,300 dinars [11 euros] dinars [1.50 euros]. the concert cost 200 dinars [1.50 euros]. dinars [2.5 euros]. 9pm. Admission is free. depending on what section you want. 16 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, July 13 - Thursday, July 26, 2018 LISTINGS

THURSDAY JULY 19 • Exhibition: Ethnology people – Clubbing Live Music Opera, Ballet Sacha/ Yakutia, Open Air Gallery • Daily RAVE and Friends, KPTM, Kalemegdan, Kalemegdan FRIDAY JULY 13 Zorza Klemensoa 22, 5am FRIDAY JULY 13 • Zappa Movie Marathon, Zappa • Barka Dilo, Grad Cultural Center, and Classical Barka, Usce bb, 10pm • Little Lu, Grad Cultural Center, Brace Krsmanovica 4, 7pm • Lena Kovacevic, BELEF SATURDAY JULY 14 Brace Krsmanovica 4, 10pm • Surf at Garden of Drugstore, Festival, Studenstki Kulturni MONDAY JULY 16 • Putnik Epizode 1 with WC7 & Drugstore, Bulevar Despota Stefana Centar (SKC), Kralja Milana 48, • Opera: Il Trovatore (Verdi), Bagheera, Drugstore, Bulevar 115, 8.30pm 9pm Metropoliten Live Broadcasting, • Exhibition: Searching for a Despota Stefana 115, 11pm • Beyond 2000 Summer Jam, Slep place, Sofia Yechina, Laufer Art, • Obojeni Program and Sumski, Cineplexx Usce Shoping Center, • TROLE all Night Long, Club 20/44, Club, Usce bb, 10pm Svetozara Radica 4, 3pm Beer Garden, Ada Ciganlija, 9pm Bulevar Mihajla Pupina 4, 6pm Usce bb, 11pm • RNB Thursdays Delight, Lasta, • Jazz Live, Polet, Cetinjska 15, 9pm • Moma Ludilo, Ljubimac, Cetinjska Bulevar Vojvode Misica bb, SUNDAY JULY 15 TUESDAY JULY 17 15, 8pm 11.55pm • Girl, Boys and Toys, Bitefartcafe Summer Stage, Kalemegdan, 11pm • Rainbow party w. Bebi Dol • DJ Martinez & DJ Cholak, • Roman Simovic and St. George • Exhibition: Abstract Painting in & Časna Sestra, KPTM, Zorza Shake’n’Shake Club, Usce bb, 11pm String Orchestra, Ilija M. Kolarac Urban Context, Theo Lopez, French Klemensoa 22, 11pm • One on One – Mainstream SATURDAY JULY 14 Endowment, Studentski trg 4, 9pm Institute, Knez Mihailova 31, 10am • Peppe & Goran Starcevic, Lasta, Mashup, Freestyler Club, Usce bb, • Exhibition: G12HUB, Dom Bulevar Vojvode Misica bb, 11.55pm 11pm • Random, Dom Omladine, Omladine, Makedosnka 22, 7pm • Dj Mrki x Tijara, Zappa Barka, Usce Makedonska 22, 8pm • bb, 10pm FRIDAY JULY 20 • Zoster, Beer Garden, Ada Ciganlija, Theatre WEDNESDAY JULY 18 9pm SATURDAY JULY 14 • Concrete DJz & Sugar Lobby • Wish Upon A Star / No Comply / FRIDAY JULY 13 • Mameshiba, Embassy of Japan, in the Garden of Drugstore, Reflection, Elektropionir, Cetinjska Tresnjinog cveta 13, 2pm • Peter Portman / After Party, Drugstore, Bulevar Despota Stefana 15, 7pm • Flow Ability, Blue Theatre, BIGZ, • Exhibition: DZAIZKU: KPTM, Zorza Klemensoa 22, 5am 115, 11pm Bulevar Vojvode Misica 17/VI, KLEPSYDRA, Ostavinska Gallery, • Luka Concrete & Bojan • Outlook Festival Belgrade Kraljevica Marka 8, 7pm SUNDAY JULY 15 3.30pm Vukmirovic, KPTM, Zorza Launch Party w. Filip • Hotline, Summer on Gardos, • Conference: Neuro-Linguistic Klemensoa 22, 11pm Motovunski, KPTM, Zorza Gardos Zemun, 9pm Programming, Dom Omladine, • Ali Guney, Grad Cultural Center, Klemensoa 22, 10pm • Tout Moreau, BELEF Festival, Makedonska 22, 5pm Brace Krsmanovica 4, 9pm Studenstki Kulturni Centar (SKC), SATURDAY JULY 14 • National holiday of France – Party, SATURDAY JULY 21 Kralja Milana 48, 9pm FRIDAY JULY 20 Dorcol Platz, Dobracina 59b, 9.30pm • Gipsy Music, Polet, Cetinjska 15, • Flow Ability, Blue Theatre, BIGZ, • Filip Xavi, Kaen, Rope, Nemanja • 031 Republic, sam.Luda & 8pm Bulevar Vojvode Misica 17/VI, 8pm • Exhibition: Single Frames, Godjevac, Drugstore, Bulevar Depra / After Party, KPTM, Zorza • Texas Flood, Beer Garden, Ada • Reality Show Clash, Summer on Johannes Mundiger, Kvaka 22, Despota Stefana 115, 11pm Klemensoa 22, 5am Ciganlija, 9pm Gardos, Gardos Zemun, 9pm Ruzveltova 39, 7pm • DiscoNotDisco: Schwabe & • Samostalna FTP Day Party & , Katzele (Malka Tuti), Club 20/44, Concert at KPTM (Open Air) MONDAY JULY 16 THURSDAY JULY 19 SATURDAY JULY 21 Usce bb, 11pm KPTM, Zorza Klemensoa 22, 11pm • Mish Mash, Ljubimac, Cetinjska 15, • Beach Alarm, Polet, Cetinjska 15, • Exhibition: BeeBoy, Sadko • Monday Blues, Dom Omladine, • Shakespeare, Summer on Gardos, 8pm 9pm Gardos Zemun, 9pm Hadzihasanovic, Ilija M. Kolarac • Collective & Milos Starcevic, Makedonska 22, 9pm Endowment, Studentski trg 5, 3pm • Party animals, Beer Garden, Ada Lasta, Bulevar Vojvode Misica bb, SUNDAY JULY 22 SATURDAT JULY 21 • Dorcol’s Market vol.14, Dorcol 11.55pm Ciganlija, 9pm Platz, Dobracina 59b, 6pm • Dj BKO x Bege Fank, Zappa Barka, • Matine, Lasta, Bulevar Vojvode • Mr. Prophet, Summer on Gardos, Usce bb, 10pm Misica bb, 6pm WEDNESDAY JULY 18 Gardos Zemun, 9pm SUNDAY JULY 22 • Belgrade Matine Party, Leto, • Behind the Curtain, Summer on SUNDAY JULY 15 Bulevar Vojvode Misica bb, 6pm • Branimir i neprijatelji, Beer Gardos, Gardos Zemun, 9pm • Exhibition: Spring Garden of • Savamala Sundays / Dj Vuk Garden, Ada Ciganlija, 9pm Secrets, Nikola Dzafo, Drina • Ribs, Grad Cultural Center, Brace Vukosavljevic, Tranzit Bar, Brace • Stadion Art Night, Zappa Barka, Gallery, Andricev Venac 4, 4pm Krsmanovica 4, 7pm Krsmanovic 8, 9pm Usce bb, 10pm • Art Market, Polet, Cetinjska 15, 4pm • Tornado Wallace, Nikola Vemic & Exhibitions and Events • Hand Made Festival vol.16, Dorcol Friends, Club 20/44, Usce bb, 6pm MONDAY JULY 23 THURSDAY JULY 19 Platz, Dobracina 59b, 10am • Stih I Ja, Ljubimac, Cetinjska 15, FRIDAY JULY 13 7pm • Find a Boyfriend Party, Slep Club, MONDAY JULY 23 • Elektricni orgazam, Zappa Barka, , Lasta, Bulevar Vojvode Usce bb, 10pm • Matine • World Congress International Misica bb, 6pm • Monday Midnight RnB, Hot Mess, Usce bb, 10pm • K-POP World Festival Serbia Federation for Theatre Research - • Belgrade Matine Party, Leto, Usce bb, 11pm 2018, Dom Omladine, Makedonska , Faculty of Dramatic Bulevar Vojvode Misica bb, 6pm FRIDAY JULY 20 IFTR Belgrade 22, 4pm Arts, Bulevar umetnosti 20 • Savamala Sundays / Dj Vuk TUESDAY JULY 24 • Exhibition: Kenya, Tanzania and Vukosavljevic, Tranzit Bar, Brace • Artan Lili, Beer Garden, Ada • Exhibition: System Error, Jana Uganda: 1937 – 1939, Museum of Krsmanovic 8, 9pm • Savamaladies: Kaya D, Tranzit Bar, Ciganlija, 9pm Stojakovic, Pro3or Gallery, Koce African Art, Andre Nikolica 14, 5pm Brace Krsmanovic 8, 11pm • Fuzzbox, Fest Club, Gradski park Popovica 9, 10am MONDAY JULY 16 • We Are the 90s, Freestyler Club, 2, 11pm • Exhibition: Abstraction, Mila TUESDAY JULY 24 Usce bb, 11pm Gvardiol, Gallery ’73, Pozeska 83a, 10am • Exhibition: Veljko Valajrevic, • Find a Boyfriend Party, Slep Club, SATURDAY JULY 21 • Exhibition: Franko B – A Monument, Usce bb, 10pm WEDNESDAY JULY 25 Lucidida Gallery, Cika Ljubina 11, Eugster Gallery, Viline Vode bb, 5pm 7pm • Monday Midnight RnB, Hot Mess, • Door Window Nine, Dom • Exhibition: Taste of Eternity, Vesna Usce bb, 11pm • Tranzit Vinyl Extravaganza, Omladine, Makedonska 22, 8pm Knezevic and Nina Maric, Legacy • Phill Park in the Mix, Tag Club, Tranzit Bar, Brace Krsmanovic 8, SATURDAY JULY 14 House, Knez Mihailova 46, 4pm Usce bb, 11pm 11pm MONDAY JULY 23 • I Love RnB, Freestyler Club, Usce • A walk through the WEDNESDAY JULY 25 TUESDAY JULY 17 bb, 11pm Contemporary Art of Belgrade, • Monday Blues, Dom Omladine, Re,ont, Marsala Birjuzova 7, 11am • Exhibition: Forensics of the • Savamaladies: Kaya D, Tranzit Bar, THURSDAY JULY 26 Makedonska 22, 9pm • Exhibition: Highway, Davor Ancient Age: 20 years of new Brace Krsmanovic 8, 11pm • Just like Johnny Cash, Beer Konjikusic, Artget Gallery, Trg archaeological research of Vinca, • We Are the 90s, Freestyler Club, • I-aerobics, Grad Cultural Center, Garden, Ada Ciganlija, 9pm Republike 5/I, 1pm Gallery of Science and Technology Usce bb, 11pm Brace Krsmanovica 4, 7pm • Exhibition: Nowness, Ana Elizabet, SANU, Djure Jaksica 2, 5pm • Surf at Garden of Drugstore, THURSDAY JULY 26 Art Gallery, Knez Mihailova 6, 1pm WEDNESDAY JULY 18 Drugstore, Bulevar Despota Stefana • Exhibition: Stupid like a Painter, THURSDAY JULY 26 115, 8.30pm • Musicology: Bokantè feat. Darinka Pop Mitic, Podroom • Marko Vukovic, Gem.n. & • RNB Thursdays Delight, Lasta, Michael League (Snarky Gallery, Trg Republike 5, 1pm • Exhibition: Ivana Basic, Poslednji Pionir, KPTM, Zorza Bulevar Vojvode Misica bb, 11.55pm Puppy) and Malika Tirolien, November Gallery, Kursulina 22, , SUNDAY JULY 15 5pm Klemensoa 22, 5am • DJ Martinez & DJ Cholak Bitefasrtcafe Summer Stage, • Tranzit Vinyl Extravaganza, Tranzit Shake’n’Shake Club, Usce bb, 11pm • Exhibition: Djordje Stanojevic Bar, Brace Krsmanovic 8, 11pm • One on One – Mainstream Kalemegdan, 9pm • Exhibition: Light, Damir Radd, - the man who lighted Serbia, • I Love RnB, Freestyler Club, Usce Mashup, Freestyler Club, Usce bb, • Prti Bee Gee, Zappa Barka, Usce bb, Kralja Petra House, Vase Pelagica History Museum of Serbia, Trg bb, 11pm 11pm 10pm 40, 7p Nikole Pasica 11, 5pm

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