Real Estate Ljubljana: ORDER DELIVERY TO YOUR DOOR Boom Sparks more than +381 11 4030 303 [email protected] Concern in just a pretty - ISSN 1820-8339 1 Belgrade place BELGRADE INSIGHT IS PUBLISHED BY 0 1

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Issue No. 260 Friday, October 12 - Thursday, October 25, 2018 Even when the Democrats longas continue to likely is This also are negotiations Drawn-out Surely the situation is urgent Many of us who have experi - We feel in-the-know because bia has shown us that (a.) no single no (a.) that us shown has bia party or coalition will ever gain the governa - form to required majority negotiations political (b.) and ment, will never be quickly concluded. achieved their surprising result at last month’s general election, quickly it became clear that the - re sult was actually more-or-less the result election other every as same in Serbia, i.e. inconclusive. as Serbia’s politicians form new political parties every time disagree with they their current party - reg 342 currently are (there leader political parties in Serbia). istered the norm. One Ambassador Belgrade-based recently told me he was also alarmed by the distinct lack of urgency among politicians. Serbian “The country is standstill at and a I don’t understand their logic. If they are so eager to progress towards the EU and en - theycome how investors, courage go home at 5pm sharp and don’t work weekends?” overtime. little a warrant to enough EDITOR’S WORD Predictability Political By Mark R. Pullen elections Serbian numerous enced rate ourselves as pundits when it comes to predicting election - re sults and post-election moves. our experience of elections in Ser - - - NEWS NEWS “The situation in the party seems “Dacic will eventually side with Nikolic agreed: “The question is Fearing they might not cross the Pensioners leader, Jovan Krkoba - The reported price is the post of In addition, the Socialists are bar Tadic has denied talk of horse- At the same time, Dacic seems re - reach an agreement “If we don’t Source: Balkan Insight (www.balkaninsight.com) Balkan Insight (www.balkaninsight.com) Source: party over which way to turn. extremely complicated, as we try to convince the few remaining lag - gards that we need to move out of one Socialist shadow,” Milosevic’s Party official complained. in a bid to guide his party into Tadic the European mainstream, but much of the membership and many offi - cials may oppose that move.” will the party split or ‘old- back down,” he noted. timers’ threshold to enter parlia - 5-per-cent ment, the Socialists teamed up with Association of Pensioners and the the led by business - United Serbia Party, man Dragan Markovic “Palma”. bic, Palma and Dacic are all pushing for a deal with the Democrats. of deputy PM, with a brief in charge security for the Socialist leader. gaining for other ministries, includ - ing capital investments, Kosovo and education, Belgrade media reported. trading with the Socialists, maintain - ing that ministries would go only to those committed to working for the “strategic goal”. government’s negotiations with luctant to call off the nationalists. with the DSS and Radicals, par ty leadership will decide on future steps”, Dacic announced, following par new country’s of session first the liament on Wednesday. page 10 hile the football world watch - es events unfold at the Euro - However, a strong current also However, Mihajlo Markovic, a founder of Markovic, a prominent supporter Some younger Socialist officials Neighbourhood Matters faces extinction unless it changes. flows in the opposite direction, led by party veterans enraged the Tadic. prospect of a deal with recently warned of a crisis the party, if Dacic opts for the pro-European “nat - bloc, abandoning the Socialists’ ural” ideological partners. of Milosevic during the 1990s, is seen as representative of the “old- timers” in the party who want to stay policies, true to the former regime’s even though these almost ruined the Socialists for good. have voiced frustration over the con - tinuing impasse within their own Football Rebellion Football pean Championships in Austria and pean Championships in Switzerland, Bosnia is experiencing led by fans, play - a soccer rebellion, enraged ers and former stars who are by what they see as corrupt leaders football association of the country’s leaders. W DISILLUSIONED June 13, 2008 Issue No. 1 / Friday, SERBIANS HEAD page 5 FOR CHINA’S conomists are warning that pro - over Serbia’s uncertainty longed “This year has been lost, from the After eight years of stagnation, the pro-European and nation - With Nikolic believes the Socialists, led “The group of younger Socialists Business Insight Costs Mounting future could scare off investors, lead investors, lead future could scare off to higher inflation and jeopardise prosperity for years to come. says standpoint of economic policy,” Econom - the of Stamenkovic Stojan ics Institute in Belgrade. to Serbia’s late president, Slobodan to Serbia’s Milosevic, and reformists who want the party to become a modern Euro - pean social democrat organisation. the Socialists returned to centre stage after winning 20 of the 250 seats in elections. parliament in the May 11 alist blocs almost evenly matched, the Socialists now have the final say on the fate of country. by Ivica Dacic, will come over to if only out of a pragmatic de - Tadic, sire to ensure their political survival. gathered around Dacic seems to be adding said, Nikolic majority”, the in that these reformists believe the party PROMISED LAND E

Skilled, adventurous young SerbiansFriday • June 13 2008 are increasingly going to work in China – lured by the attractive wages THIS ISSUE OF Belgrade Insight IS SUPPORTED BY: IS SUPPORTED offered in Asia’s economic giant. on a new gov - ense negotiations ernment have divided the ranks “It looks as if the Socialists will Simultaneous negotiations held This divides “old-timers” loyal Socialist leader Ivica Dacic remains the Serbian kingmaker Socialist leader Ivica Dacic remains Lure of Tadic Alliance Splits Socialists Tadic Lure of government, old pro-EU While younger Socialists support joining a new, over the prospect. revolt Milosevic loyalists threaten in Belgrade By Rade Maroevic of the Socialist Party, which holds of the Socialist Party, of the balance power between the blocs and has yet to announce main which side they will support. move towards a government led by the Democrats,” political analyst Mi - lan Nikolic, of the independent Cen - tre of Policy Studies, said. “But such a move might provoke deeper divi - sions and even split the party.” with the pro-European and national - ist blocs have drawn attention to a deep rift inside the Socialists. T

Ivana NIKOLIC

t one point, 26-year-old had two jobs already, as a running and Ana Sparovic was con- swimming coach, but her monthly in- vinced she had every- come was still only around the national thing. She was madly in minimum wage, around 220 euros. love and had a job she “So I couldn’t be sick or something liked.A These two things almost made like that,” she explains. her forget about her plan to emigrate. One day, she took the bull by the “I had long thought about leaving horns and applied for a job as PE pro- Serbia and going abroad to try it out. fessor in two international schools in But then I fell in love and thought my China. rose-tinted glasses would change the She was soon told she had gotten real world – but they didn’t,” Sparovic, both jobs, but Sparovic chose the one who holds a MA from Belgrade’s Fac- in Yongqing, a city in northern China, ulty of Sports and Physical Education, some 75km from the capital, Beijing. told BIRN. In late July, Sparovic swapped Serbia “The love remained – but the glasses for China. got the colour of reality,” she adds. Sparovic soon started questioning herself: was she incapable of earning enough money for a decent life? She Continued on page 2

Unofficial numbers offered by many expats and some Serbian media suggest that around 1,000 Photo: Pixabay/shanghaibowen Serbians now live and work in China, mostly in large cities like Beijing and Shanghai (pictured).

+381 11 4030 306 [email protected] 2 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, Octobber 12 - Thursday, October 25, 2018 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, Octobber 12 - Thursday, October 25, 2018 3 SERBIA SERBIA Continued from page 1 At a Basketball Club in Serbia, Disillusioned Serbians Head “Everyone is the Same”

for China’s Promised Land A Bujanovac basketball club brings together 150 children from Serb, Albanian and Roma y motive [for going communities across southern Serbia, challenging to China] was the ability to do the job the argument that they cannot live together. I was educated for “M– one of a physical education trainer – because that was not possible in Serbia,” she says. Nikola LAZIC kered deal for greater rights and representation, Money was an important factor, she Stajic says there is no room for politics at his bas- explains, as she wanted to help her fam- f Nenad Stajic had an unofficial motto, it ketball club. ily and pay them back for everything might be: “All children cry in the same lan- Instead, he says he is committed to developing they had done for her. guage”. the next generation of Olympians, regardless of “I know money can’t buy happiness It is this that underpins the basketball the language they speak. and love, but I will be able to help them academy that Stajic runs in an impover- Almir Asani is a case in point. Born in 2006 into sometimes when they face hard times, Iished, southern corner of Serbia where Serbs, Al- the region’s Roma community – an impoverished and there are always hard times in Ser- banians and Roma live largely separate lives. minority that is frequently discriminated against bia,” Sparovic says. “There’s no difference between them,” Stajic in employment and education – Asani graduated She now earns around 2,500 euros says of the 150 Serb, Albanian and Roma children from Play 017 at the beginning of September to a month, about ten times her previous who train day in, day out at Play 017 in the town of join Oxygen Orange 1 Basket in the northern Ital- wage back home. Bujanovac close to the border between Serbia and ian town of Bassano del Grappa. Months on, she seems content. She its former province Kosovo. His parents, market traders in Bujanovac, signed writes poems, learns Chinese and posts Bujanovac and the wider Presevo Valley is pre- a multi-year contract on Asani’s behalf and the regular updates on her new life in Chi- dominantly ethnic Albanian, and in recent weeks club gave him a scholarship. “Everyone accepted na on her blog and on Facebook. has become the focus of renewed speculation me completely in the new club,” said Asani. “I’m She says she might never return, ex- about the possibility of yet more border changes just a bit nostalgic.” cept for short family visits. in the Balkans. Stajic describes Asani as one of the biggest bas- “My idea was that China would serve Neglected by Serbia and coveted by mainly Al- ketball talents in Serbia. Fellow Roma Bernard as a jumping-off board for a country banian Kosovo, the Presevo Valley is apparently Murin continues to train with Play 017 while await- closer to Serbia. But now that I’m here, being sized up in Belgrade, Pristina and Brussels ing papers to move to another club in Germany. I realise I might make something out for a possible land swap that would see a slice of Albanian journalist Amir Selimi trained with of all this knowledge and enthusiasm,” mainly Serb northern Kosovo go the other way Stajic, and fondly remembers the impact the bas- she says. – something proponents of ethnic partition say ketball club had on him. would settle once and for all the status of Serbia’s “I finished my career and only play amateur NEW PERSPECTIVES former southern province, which enjoys the rec- basketball now, but at Play 017 with Stajic I learned IN THE FAR EAST ognition of more than 100 states around the world some basic life values, that everyone is the same,” but no seat at the United Nations. he told BIRN. Sparovic is one of a growing number Critics argue it would set off a chain reaction in of educated young Serbians choosing Bosnia and Macedonia, and send a devastating LANGUAGE OF BASKETBALL to work and live in China, which has be- message to the Balkans that differences of ethnic- come easier to do since the two coun- ity, language or religion cannot be overcome. Stajic said the club owed much to retired Ser- tries abolished visas for visits of less Play 017, in fact, shows very well that they can, bian international and NBA player Igor Rakocevic, than 30 days in 2017. says Stajic. vice-president of the Basketball Federation. Some come to stay for a while. Others “We are a club that gathers children of all na- “Rakocevic is a great friend of our club, because come just to earn enough money and tions from the entire south of Serbia, with the he likes the way we are working in difficult eco- then return to Serbia. idea of becoming a regional basketball academy nomic conditions,” Stajic said. Most Serbian expats teach English that will generate future national players,” he told “We receive only 400,000 dinars annually from in kindergartens or schools. Some BIRN. the local self-government (about 3,500 euros) and schools demand an English language that only covers travel to the games.” A PE teacher by profession, Djorjde Joksic is now coaching a basketball club in Beijing. Photo: Courtesy of Djordje Joksic certificate, while some do not. ‘BASIC LIFE VALUES’ The club otherwise survives on monthly mem- Serbian Foreign Ministry data, re- Jovo Bakic, a sociology professor at Another preferred way is using so- days a week. In China, he has several “In comparison to Serbia, you can re- bership fees of eight euros per child. ceived from China’s Interior Ministry, the Faculty of Philosophy in Belgrade, cial connections – friends or friends of free days at a time, depending on the ally save a lot of money and that is the Basketball is big in Serbia: the country was run- Asked which language he uses in training, Stajic say that, in March, 87 Serbian citizens says young people leave because “they friends who already work in China. basketball club schedule. essence,” the 28-year-old explains. ner-up to the United States in the 2016 Rio Olym- said it was immaterial. with regular working visas were resid- want to have a perspective in life.” That is the path that Djordje Joksic He is “more than satisfied” with life in “In Serbia, on an average salary, you pics. But ethnic Albanians or Roma rarely feature “We communicate in Serbian,” he said, “but ing in China. “The perspective for the young in took when he left Belgrade for Beijing in China, as this is where he found what save nothing,” Marko says, adding that in elite sport in Serbia. that’s the least important because we all speak the “In the last two years, the number of Serbia is dark. They struggle to find a July 2015. he was looking for – a normal life. “in China, the costs of living is higher, In Bujanovac, site of a 2001 insurgency by eth- language of basketball, which knows no prejudice, This Bujanovac basketball club seeks to unite children of all Photo: Courtesy of basketball club Play 017 Serbian citizens has risen, especially job, and, when they find it, are miser- A PE teacher by profession, Joksic “I escaped a polluted [political and but so is the salary”. nic Albanian guerrillas that ended in a NATO-bro- language or national barriers.” ethnicities, religions and genders. since 2017, after a visa waiver agree- ably paid,” Bakic told BIRN. had worked as a basketball coach for social] environment. No matter how After graduating from Belgrade’s Acad- ment for residing up to 30 days came It is not surprising that some go to six years before a friend who already much the air here in China is polluted, emy of Fine Arts, Marko spent months into force,” the ministry told BIRN. China, he continues, “because China had a job in a basketball club in Beijing it is worse in Serbia,” he says. looking for an appropriate job – and even However, unofficial numbers offered has recorded explosive economic helped him join the same club. Returning to Serbia remains an op- considered “accepting any kind of job. by many expats and some Serbian me- growth for the last 30 years. “It all happened in a week,” Joksic told tion, but only after the conditions there “Then I realised I don’t have to accept dia suggest that around 1,000 Serbians “When you develop that fast, you BIRN in the interview over WeChat, an change, he insists. whatever, and that Serbia is not the en- Published by now live and work in China, about 300 need people with different skills. Their application widely used in China, where “I would come back if there was a tire world,” Marko says. in Beijing alone. English is not that good, while people globally popular apps such as WhatsApp chance for a normal life, a life where my He left Serbia for China in February. According to the people BIRN spoke from our region have good pronuncia- or Viber don’t work, and Facebook regu- kid would have different and better role While China offers a lot for those who to, the figures differ because many of tion and can teach the language well,” larly faces technical problems. models in our surroundings, or on TV,” are eager to work, such as a good stand- them use the visa waiver agreement to Bakic said. “The initial spark was the adven- he concludes. ard, life in Serbia is full of instabilities find a job and work in China illegally. Salaries in the Serbian education sec- ture, as this is Asia, an entirely different and insecurity. After their legal month expires, they tor are low, so people simply go where world,” the 32-year-old says. KNOWING ENGLISH “You don’t know when the new tsu- go to Hong Kong or South Korea to get the same profession earns more, Bakic “But the main underlying reasons IS THE KEY nami will hit in terms of lay-offs, high their passport stamped, and then re- says. were dissatisfaction with the state of the taxes, corruption cases and [politi- A LEADING PROVIDER OF IN SOUTHEAST EUROPE turn to China. “It is not unusual for teachers to go to Serbian society, the lack of perspective Marko, who asked to be referred to cians’] lies,” Marko argues. NEWS AND ANALYSIS This is especially the case with Ser- China. We also have doctors leaving for for raising a family and the overall politi- only by his first name, works as an art Despite that, he plans to return home bians working in kindergartens, as usu- Germany, if they speak the language. It cal and social climate,” Joksic explains. teacher in a high school in the city of one day, but only once he is sure he can ally they cannot help their staff obtain is the same,” he concludes. He works now in a basketball club in Shenzhen, in southeastern China. have a decent life there. working visas but are in need of English Beijing, training school pupils. While He told BIRN that art was long ne- “Every fruit gives its best on the soil it for in-depth analysis, investigative reports, teachers. ESCAPING A ‘POLLUTED’ money wasn’t the only reason for leav- glected in China, where the state now comes from – and so it is with people,” features, interviews, commentary and profileson the latest Low wages rather than unemploy- ENVIRONMENT ing home, he admits he now earns wants to reaffirm it, hiring professors to Marko says. business and political headlines. ment are the main factor driving young more than he did. run new programmes. “But I don’t want to return without a Serbians abroad. The people BIRN spoke to said find- “I earn around 3,000 euros a month Marko declines to reveal his monthly good plan and organisation because, According to Serbia’s Statistical Of- ing a job in China is not that hard. While and manage to save around the half of income but says that in big cities like no matter how much money I earn, I fice, the average salary in the country many apply through numerous web- it,” he says. Shenzhen, even the worst jobs pay will spend it when I come back. remains about 423 euros a month, sites, others contact Chinese agents That is three times more than his old quite well in relation to living costs. “I might stay for longer or for shorter, while the unemployment rate among who then connect them to possible monthly income in Belgrade, where he Knowing English is key to getting a but right now I am enjoying all of this,” OTHER BIRN SERVICES: people over 15 is 11.9 per cent. employers. held down three jobs, working seven well-paid job, he says. he concludes. 4 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, Octobber 12 - Thursday, October 25, 2018 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, Octobber 12 - Thursday, October 25, 2018 5 BELGRADE BELGRADE

Belgrade Gets Taste of Rare Balkan Cheeses Book Fair Returns With The eighth annual “Balkan ‘Belgrado’ Cheese Festival,” which pre- sents rare and unusual cheese Moroccan Flavour varieties, takes place on Octo- ber 13-14 at Belgrade’s Dom Omladine. Visitors will have More than 500 exhibitors Organisers predict more than 500 Charms its a chance to sample cheeses are expected at this year’s exhibitors from Serbia and abroad, in-

from Serbia, Bosnia and Her- in brief Belgrade Book Fair, at which a cluding Belarus, Bosnia and Herzegovi- zegovina, Croatia and Monte- na, Iran, Japan, China, Hungary, Roma- negro as well as from France. country from the Arab Latin American The guest of honour will be nia, Russia, Slovenia, the US, Ukraine, the Netherlands. Apart from world will be guest of Croatia, Montenegro and Switzerland. cheese, wine and many other honour for the first time. For the first time in the fair’s decades- delicacies will be on offered. long history, an Arab country will be a Transplants The festival is open daily from guest of honour; namely, Morocco. 10am to 8pm. Tickets cost 250 Ivana NIKOLIC Its ambassador to Serbia, Moham- dinars (around 2 euros). med Amine Belhaj, said that his coun- for example, she needed to provide nder the slogan “The Joy of try’s stand would be in a Moroccan Members of a proof of her single status, which does Night Market Returns for Nocturnal Foodies Reading” (“Radost Citanja”), the architectural style where visitors will growing Latin not exist in her country. Fortunately, U63rd annual International Bel- have a chance to see books published visas for Colombians to Serbia are no Belgrade Night Market, which grade Book Fair takes place from Octo- by the country’s most important pub- American longer needed, but the paperwork for returns for its 16th time, takes ber 21 to 28 at Belgrade Fair. lishers and public institutions. her, as for many other foreigners, still place on October 12 from The organisers of this year’s fair say it “This participation is confirmation of community in consumed time and energy, particular- 6pm to midnight at Belgrade’s will be dedicated to Serbian and world the special relations between Morocco ly as the nearest Colombian embassy is Kalenic market. Under the contemporary literature, literary trans- and Serbia in the field of culture, that Belgrade are in Vienna. name “Autumn Belgrade Night lation as well as the promotion of books is, the mutual expression at the highest Dealing with national stereotypes is Market,” organisers promise finding new to bring both old and new art- and reading. level of building bridges of communica- another task Mitric has had to handle, ists, designers and craftsmen. “A book is the pillar of the Serbian tion between the peoples of both coun- ways to connect on both sides. “The first questions I get Craft beer producers, vintners culture. The Book Fair has an important tries,” the ambassador said. asked when I say I´m from Colombia and some of the city’s best role in preserving and developing this Apart from presenting books, several up with each are always related to Pablo Escobar and restaurants will also present tradition,” Zoran Avramovic, chairman Moroccan authors and thinkers will cocaine. Every once in a while, people their wares. The festival, which of the Book Fair Committee, told a press be giving lectures, while a famous mu- will be familiar with our famous paint- Organisers predict that more than 500 exhibitors from Serbia and Photo: Beta other and started in June 2016, has been conference on September 28. sician, Farid Ghannam, will play Bel- abroad will participate in this year's fair. er, Botero. My friends and family back introducing Belgraders to a Belgrade City’s Secretary for Culture, grade’s Dom Omladine on October 22. home were also skeptical about my variety of foodstuffs, beverages discuss what Ivona Jevtic, told the press conference Apart from prominent Moroccans, a The annual book fair was founded over the weekend it will close at 9pm. move to Serbia; the reputation of the and delicacies as well as pro- moting artists and craftsmen that the fair was “one out of 11 events number of other international authors in 1956 by the City of Belgrade and has An individual ticket costs 250 dinars unites – and Serbs from the media had long been and their original products. of exceptional importance for the city,” will also attend the event, including been taking place in the Belgrade Fair (around 2 euros), while a group one that they were gente mala – a bad peo- Entrance, as always, is free. For and added that the number of visitors Peru’s Santiago Roncagliolo, Slovenia’s ever since. costs 150 dinars (around 1.3 euros). divides – such ple.” more information visit: www. is expected to exceed last year’s figure Robert Simonisek and Peter Brett from Visitors may visit it from 10am to For more information visit www.sa- Being an ambassador for both cul- beogradski-nocni-market.com. of 200,000. the US. 8pm on workdays, while on Friday and jamknjiga.rs. very different tures can be difficult, but is also reward- cultures. ing. For her, the pros outweigh the cons: City Plans to she enjoys the feeling of safety, being Honour Famed Poet in Tasmajdan able, as a woman, to walk on the streets Chinese to Build ‘Biggest’ Amusement Park in Balkans at any hour, even at night, and not have City of Belgrade’s Commission Nina PANTELIC to worry about being mugged or at- for Monuments and Names of A Chinese company With billiards, darts, table football and tacked. Coming from a city of 7 million Squares and Streets adopted plans to construct a hockey, video-games and 3D reality, hall rom Cuba to Argentina, peo- people, she also appreciates Belgrade’s the initiative to pay homage to 7 will be dedicated to older teenagers and ple from all over Central and public transport system, which she the poet Vasko Popa by erect- 5,000-square-meter fun adults, Belgrade Fair said. South America have made finds more efficient than the one in her ing a monument in his favourite park at Belgrade Fair, Hall 8 will be reserved for younger their homes in Belgrade. home city. café – Poslednja Sansa (“Last teenagers, while toddlers will get their The reasons for moving are Another aspect that Mitric enjoys Chance”), located in Tasma- which is due to open in late own park with toys, slides and animators Fnumerous, from starting a new busi- about life in Serbia is the food, although jdan park. Vasile Vasko Popa November. (1922-1991) was a Serbian at hall number 9. ness to university studies, from joining she believes that the portions are far poet of Romanian descent who According to the Belgrade Fair, there one’s lover in their home country to too large, and says she has put on 5 kilos rose to prominence not only in Ivana NIKOLIC will also be a huge gift shop, while cele- simply enjoying the Belgrade lifestyle, since arriving. She has already learned Belgrade, where he lived, but brating birthdays and organising karaoke and deciding to make a temporary stay how to prepare sarma (stuffed cabbage) also in the whole of the former Chinese company is to transform parties there will all be possible. permanent. and punjene paprike (stuffed pappers), Yugoslavia. halls 7, 8 and 9 at the Belgrade Fair “This project represents an upgrade These Latin American transplants and her next goal is to master the art of into “Star Land,” an amusement to the existing manifestations and all the are often pleasantly surprised to find making ajvar. Her favourite flavour of Manjez Park Gets A ‘Wi-Fi Tree’ park aimed at everyone, from toddlers content that is displayed at the Belgrade that many Serbs are familiar with the rakija is dunja – quince. She also enjoys and teenagers to adults. Fair. Spanish language, and eager to take the changing of the seasons, which she Downtown Manjez park re- Construction is to start soon, and me- “Thanks to the contemporary concept advantage of the opportunity to prac- was unable to experience in her tropi- ceived a so-called ‘Wi-Fi tree’ dia reports say that the park – which they of entertainment for whole families and tice with a native speaker. An initial cal homeland. Autumn is her favourite. on October 9, the first of its claim will be the biggest in the region – will all ages, and to top technology in the field encounter between a Latino and a Serb She also enjoys traveling around the kind in the Serbian capital. The start working as of the end of November. of entertainment and social games, Star tends to lead to rapid-fire, in-depth dis- Balkans, and especially visiting the ‘tree’ enables free wi-fi access Serbian Trade Minister Rasim Ljajic Land is expected to become a unique cussions on everything from teleno- monasteries, which are very different to around 300 people within praised the 3-million-euro investment, place in the region for this kind of enter- velas to Zumba classes, and from tra- to the Catholic ones she’s more familiar 150 metre radius, according to Djordje Marovic from Telekom claiming it will help to boost Belgrade tainment,” the Belgrade Fair told Serbia’s ditional foods to comparisons of each with. Serbia. Apart from offering free tourism. Tanjug news agency on October 2. other’s politics. Hecgli Alvarez, originally from Ven- Internet access, the device is “It will bring the entertainment that Bel- Once constructed, Star Land will be One recent expat is Nina Mitric, nee ezuela, is another Latina who is thriv- grade as a city-break destination needs,” not only the biggest, but also the very first Vargas, who has been living on and off ing in her new home of Belgrade. When also fitted with phone charging The amusement park will be located within Exhibiton Halls 7, Photo: Wikicommons/Jovan Popovic stations. Ljajic told the media on October 1. amusement park of its kind in Serbia. 8 and 9 of the Belgrade Fair. in Belgrade for this past year. Her con- asked about how Latinos to stay in nection with Serbia, however, began touch with their roots here, she brought long before that, over 30 years ago, in up a group on Facebook called Latinos fact, when she met the man who would en Serbia. ORDER DELIVERY TO YOUR DOOR later become her husband. He was Counting 673 members, the group Nina Mitric, originally from Colombia, enjoys Serbian food and public transport in Belgrade, but struggles Photo: Miso Mitric Find your copy of with Serbian language and administration. +381 11 4030 303, [email protected] working at the local Yugoslav embassy, is quite active, and a good way to meet Belgrade Insight here: www.balkaninsight.com/en/page/subscribe-to-belgrade-insight while she was studying design at uni- people. Alvarez describes it as diverse The BGD SMP regularly hosts events Sonia Paola Punin, the current or- try of origin, where children live on the versity. and multicultural. In the group, one can in which participants talk on previ- ganiser of the group, is from Ecuador streets and even starve to death. Originally from Bogota, Colombia, Mi- find Latino students living in Belgrade ously announced subjects, which vary and has been living in Belgrade for On the other hand, she misses cer- tric is happy with her new life but says or people who are passing through for from “If you could choose to live in any four years. She is also active in the tain aspects of her culture in Belgrade: HOTEL MOSKVA HOTEL HYATT BISTRO BAR NATIONAL FOUNDATION RADISSON BLU her greatest struggle has been learn- a few days, as well as those who have country in the world, which would you International Women’s Club. As the “Where I´m from, it is common to greet Address: Balkanska 1 Address: Milentija Popovica 5 Address: Vojvode Stepe 198 FOR DANCE OLD MILL HOTEL ing the Serbian language. She finds the been living longer here for years. Posts pick?” to “What motto best describes mother of two young boys, she does people with a friendly face. Smiling is Address: Kolarceva 3 Address: Bulevar Vojvode Misica 15 word prijatno, for example, a hurdle, in the group include everything from your life?” – and all, of course, en es- her best to blend the traditions of both one thing that I feel a lot of people lack HOTEL SQUARE NINE HOTEL CROWNE PLAZA SKVER 44 www.radissonblu.com/hotel-belgrade since in Spanish the word is translated seeking an official Spanish–Serbian panol. Serbia and Ecuador. Her family cel- here; the reaction is often to look suspi- Address: Studentski trg 9 Address: Vladimira Popovica 10 Address: Pozeska 44a RESTAURANT BIZU in a variety of ways, depending on the translator, finding special ingredients in Finally, Alvarez mentioned the Cafe ebrates two of everything – two Christ- cious, if you do it too much.” Address: Andre Nikolica 1-3 RESTAURANT DVA JELENA situation; pleasant, have a good meal, Serbia [Metro and Vero in Novi Beograd Latino group as a way to meet friends mases, two Mother’s Days, two Easters But she also recognises that once CAFE SNEZANA HOTEL LE PETIT PIAFF INTERGALACTIC DINER Address: Skadarska 32 have a nice day, etc. Her strategy is to tend to be the best bets!] to looking for from similar backgrounds for network- and so on. Serbian people get to know a foreigner Address: Internacionalnih brigada 22 Address: Knez Mihailova 50 Restaurant Mali vrabac INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF listen, listen, and listen some more to musicians to start a band. It also posts ing and friendship. Cafe Latino, which Punin agrees with many other Latina well, they welcome them. Overall, she Address: Hotel Jugoslavija, Bulevar Address: Skadarska 34 BELGRADE the news on television, in the hope of information on Latino-focused parties, can also be found on Facebook, organ- women, especially those from Colom- appreciates the way one tradition is Mihajla Pupina 85A KOLARAC Address: Temisvarska 19 eventually catching and understand- particularly those that feature salsa ises a variety of events, including talks bia, Peru and elsewhere, that safety is common to both cultures. Address: Studentski trg 5 HOTEL COURTYARD BY TOURIST ing more words. She quickly learned and bachata dancing. and art workshops. The monthly meet- one of Serbia’s greatest selling points. “Family is very important to both MARRIOTT THE BRITISH INTERNATIONAL ORGANISATION OF SERBIA the Cyrillic script, enabling her to read Though not necessarily focusing on ups tend to take place in someone’s Not having to constantly be on alert Serbs and Latinos; even though we may HOTEL EXCELSIOR Address: Vase Carapica 2-4 SCHOOL OF BELGRADE Address: Trg Republike 5 words – but without actually knowing Latinos in particular, for those interest- home, and those who wish to attend for pickpockets, or ignore catcalls, has miss our food and certain customs from Address: Kneza Milosa 5 Address: Smetanina 12 Address: Kolarceva 7 Address: Cika Ljubina 8 their meaning. ed in practicing Spanish and learning bring a dish and a beverage to share been a huge relief to her. She recognises back home, we rarely feel alone here, HILTON BELGRADE Another situation that Mitric finds more about the culture, the group Bel- with everyone else. “It provides a sup- that Serbia has its own issues, but Pu- because the Sunday afternoon lunch, Address: Kralja Milana 35 frustrating about life in Serbia is the grado Spanish Meeting Point, also on port system, a refuge for us women, par- nin also says poverty has not reached which unites several generations, is administrative process. To get married, Facebook, is another great alternative. ticularly for married Latinas,” she adds. the alarming rates she saw in her coun- something we never miss,” she says. 6 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, Octobber 12 - Thursday, October 25, 2018 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, Octobber 12 - Thursday, October 25, 2018 7 SERBIA BUSINESS COMMENT Real Estate Boom The EU Needs to Get Real Sparks Concern in Belgrade

older buildings are not in high demand, in the Balkans Property prices as the roofs often leak, while the differ- ence between well-maintained flats are soaring in the compared to those in poor condition varies by only some 5 per cent, for the Serbian capital – but same location and space. the boom in luxury "But for newly built apartments such as in Blok A [in New Belgrade] some of apartments is also clients are willing to pay up to 3,000 euros per metre. Our experience is also causing concern that some 80 per cent of apartments in Belgrade are being bought for cash, as about whether this people move their capital from banks trend is widening to real estate, and come back from working in the foreign countries." gaps in society, Pasanovic says the interest in pur- chasing real estate in Belgrade shown shutting poorer by foreign citizens is also clear. "Mostly these are Iranian, Chinese people out of the and Turkish nationals. And their first market. question is whether they can secure residence [rights] in Serbia by acquiring a flat or a house in Belgrade." Milan RADONJIC Pasanovic says one reason for the real estate market boom in Belgrade is he real estate market in simply that the city offers a good ratio Serbia generated over 1.5 of quality of life for the given price. billion euros in transac- "In Belgrade, you do not need that tions over the first half of much money to have a comfortable life 2018, according to rough with quite a few opportunities for qual- Tassessments, marking a growth rate of ity time. On the other side, for many of some 20 per cent compared to the pre- those returning to Serbia from abroad, vious year. it is the social connections and memo- Most of the growth was concentrated ries that matter." in the two major urban centres of Bel- While the trends in the market look grade and Novi Sad. positive, prices are still below the lev- This growth has pushed prices in the els reached before the 2008 crisis, says most in-demand new-build projects in Dejan Krajinovic, editor of Beobuild, a the capital to new heights, from 3,000 portal that covers construction and in- to even 5,000 euros per square metre frastructure projects in the capital. in some cases, for the most prestigious "The recovery has only just started locations. and we have strong growth in new con- Data provided on the Global Property struction projects, but this activity only Guide website says the price per square covers a narrow segment of the mar- metre for a 120-square-metre residence ket," Krajinovic notes. in Belgrade is now some 2,250 euros on "The ratio between apartment prices average. and average income remains extreme- This puts it ahead of the Croatian ly unfavourable," he adds. capital Zagreb, where prices per metre "In those conditions most people average 1,900 euros. Zagreb is followed remain excluded from the real estate by Sofia, where the average price is market, particularly those who wish to Commissioner for European Neighbourhood Policy and Enlargement Negotiations, Johannes Hahn, and Serbian President, Aleksandar Vucic. Photo: Beta 1,600 euros, Podgorica [1,400 euros], purchase their first home. A revival of and Skopje [1,100 euros]. the secondary real estate market and Stoltenberg, to US Defense Secretary also the democratic procedures of a many mistakes in the West Balkans en- due to either outright dishonesty be- The same source says Ljubljana is growth of new construction projects in The EU’s Jim Mattis, failed to mobilise a major- candidate country was disheartening. largement process. tween the member states, or between still the most expensive regional capi- smaller towns will be the sign of real re- ity of Macedonians to stand behind this It immediately brought back memo- These include constantly shifting the their governments and the electorate. tal. A square metre in the Slovene capi- covery," he continues. dishonest important deal by voting for it in the ries of former, undemocratic leaders in goal posts for the region's accession, Finally admitting West Balkan states, tal costs some 2,900 euros, which is Even with all its new projects, Bel- September 30 referendum. the region who not only embellished and casually glossing over the region's once they become transparent, demo- much pricier than Budapest, where the grade still has only a fairly small supply reaction the Despite all their efforts, only 37 per but fabricated the electoral will – leaders increasingly autocratic regimes. cratic and stable societies, will mean average price is 2,500 euros. of luxury condominiums and business cent of registered voters turned out to who the people of the region deposed in Easily avoidable communication that the EU will have to deal less with "Activities in housing construction spaces for a city of this size and impor- Macedonian vote, over 94 per cent of whom voted in order to create real democracies which, blunders, besides this latest one, have the kind of problems that impaired pre- are increasing and the market is reach- tance, Krajinovic says. favour of the motion, which mixed the we hoped, would be supported by the notably included French President Ma- vious accessions. ing its peak. Our assessment is that the "Investors have extremely high ex- referendum so-called "Prespa" agreement with sup- EU and its member states. cron dashing any hope of quicker en- Every effusive word uttered by a rapid growth trend will last for some pectations. But they will only be ful- port for the prospect of NATO and EU While, thankfully, there is still hope largement this year, despite EU officials Western official to a regional "stabilo- two more years," says Zorana Zdrale- filled if we have dynamic economic result is precisely Mayor of Belgrade, Zoran Radojicic, at the opening of a luxury residential complex which is Photo: Beoinfo membership. that the Macedonian deal can be sal- promising it many times. crat", every time the EU or its members Burlic, CEO of Delta Real Estate Com- part of the controversial Belgrade Waterfront development. growth, and if Belgrade continues to de- the kind of This was below the required consti- vaged in the country's parliament, there In the short run, these failures imme- renege on any trumpeted "promise" pany. velop as regional cultural, financial and tutional threshold of 50 per cent, how- seems less hope that the EU will face up diately lend more credence to the claims and every time the real reasons for "Among other factors, it is caused by terest but also drawn discontent about "Sales in the BW are going very well. usually down to legal issues, such as political centre. However, the current behaviour that is ever, which made the referendum a to, let alone remedy, the own goal of its of the EU's rivals in the Western Balkans the EU's failures are swept under the very favourable loan rates. However, their scale. Most of the future residents are high- restitution claims. investments on the Sava riverbanks are failure, even if there are legitimate argu- press statement scored – instead dis- that the EU does not practise what it carpet, there is more disillusionment the current interest rates are not sus- This is particularly the case with the end corporate managers, sportsman, "I believe that in this particular case quite speculative in nature, as the mar- alienating people ments to be made that the de facto per- playing an attitude that may have led to preaches and cannot be relied on. among those for whom the path to the tainable in the long term, and growth big shopping malls, like Delta Planet, and wealthy heirs," he explains. restitution is holding it back from reo- ket is not the main driving force here. It centage of those who turned out was the disenchantment of many Macedo- However, the risks to the EU and the EU is a path towards making their coun- will surely end in stagnation and a slow- which is due to built near the Au- Demand remains high in Belgrade for pening. In other cases, especially those is still early to say if this investors' fren- in the Western higher than 37 per cent, as the electoral nians who decided to stay home rather West Balkan states run deeper than tries more just and fair. down in the housing market." tokomanda intersection, close to cen- office space, but also for new residential on the riverbanks, there are other legal zy in the luxury housing sector could roll was flawed. than vote. that. Interestingly, as things now stand, Asked why most apartments and tral Belgrade, by Delta Holding. projects, Pasanovic says, stressing that issues. That's why the Belgrade Wa- create a dangerous bubble; the risks of Balkans. The second, more unexpected, Much needed nave-gazing was not If the EU wants to still hold sway over disillusionment with the EU in the properties in Belgrade are bought for "When office space is under consid- almost all new apartments in big resi- terfront had to be opened by a special that happening are also present." shock was delivered immediately after helped by a number of mostly West- those who truly want to see their coun- Wester Balkans does not automatically cash, Zdrale-Burlic says it is down to a eration, investors see that there is space dential projects, such as Belville, West legal act (Lex Specialis), in order to over- Krajinovic says the state must play a Srdjan GARCEVIC the first one, when the EU official state- ern pundits who immediately started tries reformed on the basis of transpar- mean veering away from the accession lack of options. "Those with available for new investments, as the demand 65, or Vozdove Kapije, are sold. come those obstacles." significant role in supporting the devel- ment on the referendum, delivered blaming Russia for the failure of the ency and fairness, it needs to show it has path: the local "stabilocrats" can tighten free capital do not have much choice is still significant. Serbia has less office "Apartments in projects that are still The "lex specialis" enabling the Bel- opment of affordable, cheap housing he failure of the refer- by the Enlargement Commissioner vote, rationalising the result though an appreciation for the basic principles their grip on power, and comfortably about where to invest it apart from real space than most of the countries in the under construction are also in high de- grade Waterfront development, how- as well. Otherwise, the market will con- endum in Macedonia Johannes Hahn, lauded the result as a new Cold War lenses, and virtually dis- of any functioning society: truthfulness. steer their countries whichever way estate. region. mand, as this is the best way to invest ever, caused public discontent about its tinue to exacerbate social differences, to confirm popular sup- success – claiming that a referendum regarding any agency on behalf of the In the long run, this is more impor- they choose – and the EU and its mem- "The fact that most of the properties "The percentage of free office space money these days," he adds. secrecy besides other concerns about something for which Serbia is already port for the historic deal motion that attracted the support of Macedonian electorate. tant for the countries in the Western ber states seem either to agree, or just in Belgrade are bought in cash also in- in Serbia is 4 per cent while in Croatia "When they are completed, their the size of the planned Dubai–style sky- notorious. with Greece has deliv- about one third of the electorate and While it would not be surprising for Balkans than any number of closed ignore what is going on. dicates that a large number of people it is 9 per cent. Over the course of next prices are significantly higher already – scrapers on the Sava riverbank. There are strong tendencies on the ered a double shock which failed to meet Macedonian con- Russia to try to undermine the expan- chapters, access to funds and acces- from the diaspora see buying real es- year some 100,000 square meters of in some cases up to 50 per cent higher A later decision of the authorities to part of state institutions like National Tto those in Serbia who hope for the re- stitutional requirements for validity, sion of NATO, what many of the officials sion dates, as it shows that they are, or Srdjan Garcevic is a writer and a tate in Serbia as a way of securing their offices are planned for construction in than when the project started. It is the demolish old buildings and warehous- Construction Directorate to focus only gion's quicker integration into the EU. showed "broad support for the Prespa and pundits do not realise is that denial will be, treated as partners, rather than founder of The Nutshell Times blog. savings – and as a wise investment." Belgrade, and this should cover the cur- same with office space as well." es on the location of the future exclu- on higher profits on the market, which The first shock, of course, was that agreement". of reality is precisely what could deter as errant wards. Large-scale projects like the Belgrade rent needs." Asked why some of the best office sive condominium brought thousands "cannot be their main function", he says. Macedonian Prime Minister Zoran While everyone realises that politics Macedonians and other nations in the After all, most of the EU's major crises, The opinions expressed in the Com- Waterfront, BW, developed by UAE Ervin Pasanovic, General Manager of and business spaces in Belgrade re- of Belgraders onto the streets. "The final outcome could be an even Zaev and a range of top EU and US of- often is just a game of spin, the decision region from the EU. from Greek sovereign debt, to the popu- ment section are those of the authors based Eagle Hills company, or Skyline Adventis Real Estate Agency, managing main unoccupied, such as famous In Pasanovic's opinion, the Belgrade larger drop in the number of citizens ficials who visited Skopje, from Germa- of a top EU official to try to needlessly What the EU and its member states lar pushback against mass migration only and do not necessarily re ect the Belgrade, developed by Israeli compa- properties in Belgrade including in the Greek Queen Restaurant in Knez Mi- real estate market is also very special. who own their own roof over their ny's Angela Merkel, to NATO chief Jens disregard not just the obvious facts but need to do is to acknowledge their between EU states (read: Brexit), were views of BIRN. ny AFI Serbia, have attracted buyers' in- Belgrade Waterfront project, agrees. hajlova street, Pasanovic says this is For example, penthouse apartments in heads," he warns. 8 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, Octobber 12 - Thursday, October 25, 2018 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, Octobber 12 - Thursday, October 25, 2018 9 REGION FACES About town with… American Sings the MILAN RADONJIC Blues in Belgrade

A proud ‘Zemunian’ and au- thor of the novel, ‘Gubitak Raleigh Bruce, an Orijenta’ (‘Loss of the Ori- American Midwest- ent’), Milan Radonjic is a regular contributor to erner with degrees Belgrade and Balkan Insight. in Business Man- MORNING agement and Span- ish, gave up the For years, I used to be a morning person, but corporate life in the nowadays not so much. Nevertheless, breakfast is still US to gig in Serbia – one of the key features of the early hours of my day. And, in the broken up, tumbled and has no regrets. and twisted reality of life in today’s Belgrade, any routine resembles a precious old childhood toy. The old-school bakery Kalevski, also known as Isadora EVERTS Gardos, (Njegoseva 14) in Zemun, with its tiny interior and pastries has stayed the same for the draw inspiration from travel, past 30 or so years. It recalls the times when it love, alcohol, and a touch of kindly offered a cure-all for hangovers, hosting insanity," says Raleigh Bruce, those coming back from God–knows–where in "Ia talkative 36-year-old Ameri- can who has become a regular on the the early hours of the morning, when only the Belgrade music scene, performing at bakeries were open. bars and festivals both in Serbia and throughout the Balkans. Njegoseva street in Zemun, overshadowed by its Born in a small Midwest town, more famous counterpart in downtown Belgrade, Bruce studied classical piano, but later is also one of my favourite streets in old core of switched to guitar. "I couldn't really Zemun. Walking down it towards the Danube travel around with a piano, so I learned quay, facades with numerous representations of to play guitar," he says. "I backpacked in fish recall the trade of its former inhabitants. At Europe for a year off my savings, and the corner with Sindjeliceva, below the Gardos I've played bar gigs in almost every Tower, stands the picturesque St Nicholas church, country." one of the oldest in Belgrade. Just across lies At 26, he was offered a prestigious job another Zemun institution, the famous kafana in his hometown of St Louis. But it was Ribika (Njegoseva 32). then that he realised that, if he accepted the offer, he would be stuck in the cor- AFTERNOON porate lifestyle forever. "I didn't want to spend my life in an If you are not that much into bar-fights, walk office, so I turned it down, applied for Croatian Serb Leader Sees down the old cobbled road all the way to another a teaching certificate online, and went key Zemun toponym: Saran Restaurant (Kej to Thailand," he recalls. He has never Oslobodjenja 53). It’s a good place for lunch. Fish looked back. Bruce settled in the Serbian capital occupies most of their menu these days. I would four years ago. "I visited Belgrade once Campaign Behind Anti-Serb recommend the Perch, Orly-style. when I was backpacking through the Balkans, and felt a lot of creative energy If, like me, you like how the world looks from a bi- here," he laughs. "It sounds a cliché, but cycle, another good thing about living in Zemun is Incidents it's true!" the blessed absence of hills. One of my favourite His first idea was to open a craft brew- afternoon routes is the one going past the Hotel ery, but he was not able to get invest- Croatian MP, Milorad Pupovac was recently pelted with scraps of food at the main open-air market in Zagreb. Photo: Beta Yugoslavia, all the way to the confluence of Sava ment from the US. "People had never and Danube. heard of Serbia," he says. Milorad Pupovac told BIRN, days after he was pelted with bia, ending a war in which 20,000 peo- Slaven Letica, a conservative com- which was besieged by Serb forces dur- Instead, he hosted the website "Pivo- scraps of food at the main open-air mar- ple died. mentator, author and sometime- ing the war, wants to hold a protest to Passing the Great War Island always reminds me slavija," blogging about craft beers in told BIRN that a ket in the capital, Zagreb. Many Serb homes remain empty and politician, compared him to an Iraqi highlight what he says is the judiciary’s of how unlucky this nation has been with choices Serbia and in neighbouring Balkan Milorad Pupovac said the Septem- those who stayed or returned say they journalist who threw his shoes at then failure to pursue Serb war criminals. of names, many of which should probably be countries. He also led craft beer tours Born in a small Midwest town, Bruce studied classical Photo: Courtesy of Raleigh Bruce recent incident ber 28 incident was not an isolated oc- feel discriminated against and margin- US President George W. Bush during a Serbs account for around a third of the changed. For many of my generation, this was the of Belgrade, sharing information about piano, but later switched to guitar. currence but part of a campaign being alised. 2008 press conference. town’s population, but Croatian nation- Great Love Island, actually, offering some privacy the city's culture, history and nightlife in which he waged against minorities, particularly “Throwing food at parliament repre- alists have repeatedly challenged their to young couples on mild summer evenings. with foreigners. He enjoys performing in Skadarlija Although he is a long way from Serbs, by right-wing forces in the Euro- POLITICAL PROTEST? sentative Dr Milorad Pupovac is a po- constitutional right to the use of Cyrillic The island is best explored by boat or sailboat. For Bruce assembled his first band in because the various foreign tourists playing the commercial music that is was pelted with pean Union state. litical protest and symbolic expression script. those in need of training, several sailing clubs offer 2015 and started to play covers. "We all who show up make each show are dif- popular in Serbia, Bruce enjoys life in Pupovac, a member of the national Pupovac’s assailant, 36-year-old Sasa of criticism, not hate speeh or political “On top of problems of unemploy- affordable classes. A local saying goes: once you had regular jobs. I was teaching Eng- ferent. His other regular venue is Dylan Belgrade, while he continues to supple- food at a Zagreb parliament, said efforts to resolve is- Mucnjak, was arrested and admitted violence,” Letica wrote on Facebook. ment, of insufficient connectivity and learn how to steer a boat on three Belgrade winds lish online and doing translating work Dog Pub (Admirala Geprata 3), a small ment his income through teaching Eng- sues of restitution, return and language throwing food at the MP, saying it was integration, the problem in Vukovar and two rivers, you will enjoy the sea even more. as well. But whenever we got gigs, we pub known for its rock and blues music. lish online and doing translation work. market was not rights were being undermined by a not politically or ethnically motivated RISING HATE SPEECH and the whole of that region is that a would play classic American rock: Bruce and his band now have regular Working online doesn't tie him down to growing climate of hostility towards but an “impulsive” reaction to an inci- certain number of people want to en- Johnny Cash, Elvis, the Stones, music gigs and an audience made up of both one place and leaves him free to travel, If you decide to brave the city’s rivers, I recom- an insolated those Serbs who remained or returned dent he alleged occurred between his Pupovac, however, placed it in the danger the legacy of peaceful reintegra- that everyone knows." locals and foreigners. Beatovens Pro- which he loves. mend exploring the left bank of the Danube dur- after the collapse of a Serb rebel upris- wife and Pupovac years earlier. A sec- context of a number of recent rows tion,” Pupovac told BIRN. He also learned some Serbian classic duction recently produced his acoustic "I really like to play in the small towns occurrence but ing against Croatia’s secession from Yu- ond Croatian Serb MP, Boris Milosevic, over Serb rights. In 2015, national minority leaders in ing the day: there are myriad small river channels rock songs by Azra, Haustor and EKV. track, "Somewhere East of Moscow." in Serbia because people are so friendly," goslavia in 1991. was also struck by the flying food. In June, conservative campaigners, Croatia gathered in the coastal city of there, with numerous “monuments” to Serbian- "That was a real novelty, an American Despite having gained a loyal audi- Bruce says. "Every show ends with an part of a growing “This is the situation Serbs find them- It came weeks after the angry reac- under the banner ‘The People Decide’, Pula and issued a declaration against free-style constructions. You can also find several guy singing Serbian rock with a bad ac- ence, the market for his genre of music invite for a drink, food, and a night out." selves in at the moment,” Pupovac, 62, tion of some Croatian politicians to collected more than 400,000 signa- ‘intolerance and ethnocentrism’ in the makeshift restaurants open in summer, like Tri cent," he laughs. is limited in Serbia. "In many places, the It is the friendliness and laid-back at- campaign against said in an interview. Pupovac’s decision to attend Serbia’s tures in favour of a referendum on re- country. Tocka (Three Wheels), located just across the Band members came and left, and owners want you to play pop music. titude of the locals that Bruce likes best “This second trend, unfortunately, is August 4 commemoration of the Serb stricting minority voting rights in the But the following year, according to river from the Zemun Rowing Club. in 2018, Bruce met a harmonica player Even if you can get a good audience, it about Serbia. the Serb minority. stronger, more influential, and serious- exodus from Croatia in 1995 during a Croatian parliament. Authorities are an annual report by Pupovac’s SNC, with whom he now performs and tours doesn't guarantee that they'll want you "Imagine if Spain and Russia had a ly limits the successes of the first trend, Croatian military operation known as considering the demand. hate speech directed towards Serbs in EVENING regularly. He started to write and record back," he says. child: this combination of the Mediter- the attempts to change and improve ‘Storm’ that effectively ended the war. In August, a traditional Serbian folk Croatia rose 57 per cent, and climbed his own country, blues and folk songs "Everyone knows that turbo-folk is ranean vibe plus the melancholy Slav Anja VLADISAVLJEVIC things in cooperation with the govern- The ceremony caused consterna- singing festival in the Croatian town again in 2017. The SNC blamed the 2016 In summer, my choices for a night out are clubs known generically as "Americana" music. where the money's at. That's why you attitude – that is Serbia." ment.” tion in Croatia when Serbian President of Petrinja, co-organised by Pupovac’s spike on a campaign of “chauvinism” like 20/44, near Brankov Bridge, or Kucica next He has performed in Nis, Novi Sad, see heavy metal drummers who go on growing campaign Around 180,000 Serbs live in Croatia, Aleksandar Vucic said: “Hitler wanted a Serbian National Council, SNC, was by the then leader of Plenkovic’s Croa- and all over Serbia, but his regular gigs tour with Seka Aleksic." For information on when Raleigh to the Belgrade Fair – both on the Sava but on against Croatia’s eth- accounting for some 4.3 per cent of the world free of Jews and Croatia wanted a cancelled after protests by Croatian tian Democratic Union, HDZ, Tomislav are in the capital. But he is not too bothered by this. Bruce is playing, follow him on Face- opposite sides of the river. However, in the cool nic Serb minority is country’s total population, or a third of country free of Serbs.” war veterans. Petrinja was occupied Karamarko. "I started playing at the Casablanca "The music business nowadays re- book (Raleigh Bruce) and Instagram (@ autumn and winter nights, I keep to dry land. My jeopardising efforts to the prewar level. Up to 200,000 fled Croatia’s conservative prime minis- and ethnically cleansed by rebel Serbs Since the 2015 declaration, Pupovac Pub (Skadarska 9) four years ago, and volves around likes, shares and views, Raleigh Bruce Music). His next perfor- secure their rights and in 1995 with the collapse of a self-pro- ter, Andrej Plenkovic, condemned the during the 1991-95 war. said, “we didn’t notice improvements in favourite spot in Savamala remains Gajba (Kar- usually play there a couple times a so I also post and share as much as I mances will be at Miners Pub on Octo- overcomeA the legacy of a 1991-95 war, claimed rebel Serb statelet supported attack on Pupovac, but some on social And this month, the conservative this regard. Things have declined over adjordjeva 22), preferably when DJ Peppe, one of month. In summer, I play acoustic gui- can, and then I focus on those who re- ber 18 and at Crna Ovca Craft Brewery a prominent Croatian Serb leader has with men, money and arms from Ser- media sought to justify it. mayor of the eastern town of Vukovar, the past year.” Belgrade’s legendary DJs, does his magic. tar outside on their terrace." spond." on October 26. 10 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, Octobber 12 - Thursday, October 25, 2018 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, Octobber 12 - Thursday, October 25, 2018 11 OUT AND ABOUT DINING OUT

Run for your life in Belgrade innovative and fun small potato side Novi Sad Insight: dish was served alongside it – potato Sommelier’s purée, cream and chips combined, a The 26th International Novi Sad Ljubljana: more than beautiful treat invented from the hum- marathon is taking place on corner blest ingredients. Sunday, October 14 with a wide Expect the unexpected: our palate variety of options available for LANGOUSTE

just a pretty place cleanser described as “melon and gin

Where Else? Where runners beyond signing up to Corner Wine the traditional 42-km route. For French wines by the sorbet” turned to be a spoonful of cold, athletes still working up to that Metelkova, an autonomous social and dozen accompany pale-green foam, served in a tall rakija goal, alternative options include cultural centre, which has been squat- unique views over the glass. Super-light, interesting and well races of 33 km, 25 km, 10.5 km ting (and partying) in the former army Sava. balanced, with the delicate but still and even 6 km. In addition to the barracks in the city centre since 1993. distinct melon flavour and just enough individual men’s and women’s Another squatting art community took gin to give it an elegant, sharp, “grown- Pavle GOLICIN races, mixed sex teams are over the old Rog bicycle factory in 2006, up” note – this incredibly sophisticated encouraged to participate in which is also open for visitors. uring these last days of “something” felt like an edible summer relays, consisting of three to the Indian summer in mist. It also did a great job of refreshing six people from the same club BURGEONING Belgrade, there is no bet- the palette between two different sets or organisation. High schools ter terrace with the view CULINARY CULTURE D of deep earthy flavours. may enter students aged 15 to catch the sun than Langouste to 18 for the relays that have – an old star on the high-end As the main dessert, a layered carrot passed a medical examina- Besides boasting great architecture, restaurant scene in Belgrade. and chocolate cake was served with tion. Registration is limited to Ljubljana is increasingly celebrated for Langouste has a new French straw ice cream (yes, ice-cream made participants over 18 years of its culinary scene. Slovenian cuisine, Michelin-star chef in Guillaume from straw), sprinkled with straw pow- Iskandar, who actually received age, but youngsters may run in which blends Alpine and Mediterranean der and dotted with carrot sauce. The the two shortest races with the the star at his own address for his tastes, came into the foodie spotlight team. cake itself was excellent – soft, moist and written approval from a parent. thanks to Netflix series, Chef's Table, The wine list in Langouste is rich in flavour and the whole combina- The costs of registration will also huge with almost 100 different cover the participants’ package; which featured Ana Ros, a talented chef tion on the plate was more than a suc- from the Hisa Franko restaurant in the labels. About a third are Serbian, cess, it was a true grand finale to a per- This includes a t-shirt, a medal but the real focus is on French at the finish line, refreshments village of Kobarid, close to Slovenia's wines, with a particular section fectly staged culinary performance: the throughout the course and at the border with Italy. (apart from the usual sparkling, Roast duck, served in its own juice with slowly cooked carrots and fresh quince was exquisite. Photo: Courtesy of Langouste restaurant aroma of the straw completed our jour- finish line, as well as entrance to However, before Hisa Franko became white, rosé and red) dedicated to ney that had begun with a straw nest. a pasta party. To sign up, head famous, in 2010, Ljubljana's JB Restau- Special Cru Classé Selection – 20 After such a performance, meet- top Bordeaux labels to be precise. to: www.marathon.org.rs. rant, run by Janez Bratovzk, was in- ing chef Guillaume Iskandar, (the first The list is neatly done, with all cluded on the prestigious San Pellegrino the necessary information and Michelin star chef ever to operate in Shining a new light on Although Ljubljana is mostly lauded for its picturesque Photo: Srdjan Garcevic list of world's top restaurants, and still sorted out according to price, Out-of-this-World Belgrade, as far as we know), was a women in art beauty, there is much more to the city. reliably offers a delightful if stilted haute- from least to the most expensive. pleasure. Had we expected him, we cuisine experience. As you can taste at Years of the harvest, i.e. vintage, probably would have clapped, but he are also given, showing commit- September 28 marked the open- JB, much of the new Slovenian cuisine just came out of nowhere, natural and ment to detail and depth in the Flavours at Langouste ing of the international exhibition "Perceptions; Women Tailored relies on quality ingredients, such as selection. humble, exchanged a couple of words to Society?" at the Gallery of prosciutto, olive oil and truffles sourced However, only 17 wines are to hear our impressions and left quick- Matica Srpska of Novi Sad, from the Slovenian part of Istria, or available by the glass, which is Chef Guillaume of the dishes and the pricing, while ent sour flavours. We are still not sure if ly so as not to disturb us. After tasting which is being held in conjunc- mushrooms grown in the forests. rather modest for the kind of everything else is subject to variation, it was too sour or not. his food, we can only hope that he loves gastronomic experience offered tion with the British Council. However, you do not need to go far or depending on daily procurements and Pressed black angus beef ribeye Belgrade and decides to stay here for a in Langouste. It certainly limits Iskandar left us The exhibition’s objective is to pay much for a great meal in Ljubljana. the possibilities of matching the the inspiration of the chef. It almost steak in goose liver paté, served with while. question and examine repre- For about 25 euros per person, you can food to the right wine, especially speechless with brings us back to the question: “Meat or red wine sauce, black rice chips, and We were pleasantly surprised sentations and roles of women, have a meal with a glass of wine in city- if you are taking one of the well fish, Sir?” Clearly, guests are expected to pickled radish, left us speechless. It when our bill arrived. Langouste of- both past and present. It is centre restaurants like Robba, As, Julija, elaborated set menus, consisting put their trust in the chef, sit back and was crusted on the top but then liter- fered an exceptional food experience, unique in combining and placing of four or even eight different his sumptuous Spajza or Altroke, all of which offer great enjoy the ride. And what a ride it will ally melted in the mouth, reveling the unparalleled in Belgrade so far. With contemporary British artists, courses. such as Sarah Lucas and Tracy food, despite mostly catering to tourists. Another shortcoming is that cooking at this re- turn out to be! strong aftertaste of the goose liver paté. that in mind, one would have to ac- Emin, alongside 19th and 20th Finally, budget-conscious street food there are no suggestions for Three different set menus are of- The black rice chips and the sour radish cept even a fairly outrageous price. century Serbian artists, including enthusiasts can also enjoy the "Open wine-pairings with the set menus, cently re-opened fered – a four/five course Classic contrasted with the meat beautifully. However, the price was just regular, as Katarina Ivanovic and Nadezda Market" events, which run on Fridays either on the menu/wine list, or (meat-based); Mediterranean (seafood- Risotto with grilled prawns and expected in any of the city’s high-end Petrovic. Though these artists by the waiter. Luckily, the list is from mid-March to October at Ljublja- available on the website, so you restaurant. based); and a Premium menu of eight chicken mushrooms, parsley-infused restaurants. vary in their themes, origins and na's main market. can have a glimpse before com- small courses. More dishes are avail- olive oil, horseradish sauce, lemon Langouste is all about the food… and dates in history, they share the ing to the restaurant. able “a la carte”. None of the dishes are sauce and red prawn reduction sauce, the view. The meals are carefully de- commonality of being women BARS AND CAFES GALORE In our case, after a glass of Pro- Duda named or described - the waiters are fresh baby spinach and coriander signed, the food reinvented with crea- in a media that has not always secco, we opted for Pinot Noir, as there to give all the necessary informa- leaves was equally pleasant to both tivity and style from the finest ingredi- treated and celebrated them in it was a perfect companion to our the same way as men. This chal- Ljubljana also delivers for those who main dish – roast duck, but could ust steps away from Kale- tion. the eye and the palate – a vivid, unique ents and executed to pure perfection. lenges viewers to consider the prefer liquid meals. Beer-lovers will be also follow the other courses. The megdan fortress and Knez After learning about the daily of- combination of contrasting colours and The work of chef Iskandar is wonder- position of women as artists in Moderna, located inside Ljubljana’s Museum of Modern Art, is one of the many Photo: Srdjan Garcevic satisfied both by the decent local lagers, only one available by the glass Mihajlova street, the small, ferings, we decided to make our own flavors that worked together perfectly. ful; well thought out, it makes guests the modern society, asks wheth- stylish and cosy places to spend the day in the city. Union and Lasko, and the burgeoning was by the mainstream French secluded area around Kosan- “surf and turf” mix, adding a couple of After the playful risotto, we were on curious, triggers emotions. er gender equality truly exists in craft beer scene. Bevog and Lobik brew- producer Louis Max from Bur- cicev venac street offers a dif- seafood dishes to one Classic set menu. to the mains. Grilled amberjack fillet In some other aspects, there is gundy – the home of Pinot Noir. practice and whether “women’s – while the city's fine architecture and His penchant for monumentalism is eries are the ones to watch out for, but ferentJ perspective on city life, with a ro- This way, we shared six regular-sized with a olive and Tamjanika wine re- room for improvement. The service is issues” are universal. A series of From world-class The wine showed all the grape busy art scene have more than enough obvious in the city's iconic buildings, you can try other brews at new craft variety’s characteristics. Trans- mantic, artistic, laid-back atmosphere. courses between the two of us; this duction, with a mushroom sauce and smooth, attentive and polite but the staff lectures, talks and discussions to satisfy culture vultures. such as the stern brick-and-stone Nation- beer-focused pubs like Lajbah. Wine lov- parent red colour with purple re- Langouste restaurant occupies the best worked fantastically – we had just the grilled cauliflower, sprinkled with red are not familiar enough with the dishes will take place throughout the architecture to tasty flections, aromas of mushrooms, course of the exhibition’s run, The key to Ljubljana's charm is that it al and University Library of Slovenia and ers can enjoy superb local whites and spot in the area, with a fine view over right amount of food (a little more than wine powder, was served as a desatu- served, or their ingredients. The table- perfectly mixes its pristine Central Eu- the scenic Zale Cemetery, where he was reds around town at bars like Movia, small red fruits and spices on the Belgrade’s two rivers. enough, actually) and were able to sam- rated, almost black and white compo- ware is trendy pottery – beautiful, but a including those by experts in art food and cafes ga- nose and very delicate tannins on history, literature, sociology, and ropean look with the laid-back attitude interred in 1957. which is run by one of the more promi- the palate. A nicely rounded up High-end restaurants have used ple the most inviting dishes from both sition. little rough for the sophisticated dishes psychology, among others. The lore, Ljubljana is found elsewhere across former Yugo- While Plecnik's romanticism fell out of nent wine makers. wine, which evolved in the glass these premises for years. Over time, worlds. This elegant, well-balanced dish was this restaurant serves. The interior, as exhibition is open from Tuesdays slavia. Indeed, many "Yugo-nostalgics" favour after the communist takeover, his When you're tired of wining and din- during dinner. Langouste, Public, Gandolfini and Faust The appetizer, miniature muffins a successful play of different, deep- well as the graphic design, do not quite to Sundays at Trg Galerija 1, Novi much more than see Ljubljana as a model of what the student Eduard Ravnikar regaled Lju- ing and touring, you can relax in cosy The service in Langouste is fine have all resided here. Langouste reo- with goat cheese, came styled as eggs- earthy tastes. Fish with a wintery feel represent the cuisine. This did not ruin and attentive. Wines are served Sad, until January 6. other Yugoslav cities could have as- bljana with many sumptuous Modernist cafés. The cosiest and most stylish of pened at this spot last June, with a new in-a-nest, on a bed of straw. The pres- – “Nordic meets Mediterranean”, we a fantastic culinary experience – but we just a stepping-stone at the right temperature and pired to, had it not been for the wars of buildings. His masterpiece in Ljubljana them all is Moderna, inside the Modern from the proper Riedel glasses. chef (not just any, but a Michelin-star entation of these small bites was nicer would call it; this style of preparation hope Langouste develops in these as- Slake your thirst at to the country’s fa- the 1990s. was the complex of buildings around Art Museum, while Pritlicje and Bazilika Yet again, neither was the bottle chef!) and a whole new concept. We de- than their taste and we must admit that and presentation of fish is uncommon pects with the same passion and com- Serbia’s Oktober Fest The Yugo-vibe in Ljubljana, evidenced Republic Square. Including two hulking Bistro are favourites among Ljubljana's presented nor the wine poured cided to visit it for a lunch on a beauti- for a little while this made us a little wor- in these parts and, although the ingre- mitment shown by the kitchen. mous lakes. by a number of Bosnian, Albanian and skyscrapers and the grand Cankar cul- stylish, hipster crowd. in front of us, which would be ful, sunny autumn day, and must admit ried. dients used are all of Mediterranean expected in this fine dining The Novi Sad version of the Serbian fast-food joints, is also kept alive tural and conference centre, it recently To start the night, you can have a we had come with the highest expecta- Rich and smooth truffle-infused but- origin, the look and the taste of this dish famous Munich festival of beer restaurant. The mark-up here is and pretzels is getting its third Srdjan GARCEVIC by a significant number of ex-Yugoslavs, prominently featured as an emblem of chilled drink at Daktari or Centralna higher than average. tions. ter, served with large chunks of home- instantly reminded us of Iceland. LANGOUSTE outing on October 19 and 20. who were drawn to Slovenia's relative post-war Yugoslav architecture at an ex- Postaja. If you are looking for something Langouste offers a unique With the exception of Public, made rustic bread, was great to start Roast duck, served in its own juice Address: Kosancicev venac 29, The event takes place inside ith a population prosperity and tolerance of various eth- hibition at New York's MoMA. more stylish, shead to CinCin, inside a gourmet experience for Belgrade, boldly designed by Djordje Gec’s with and even better combined with an with slowly cooked carrots and fresh Phone: +381 63 3283680, the Master Centre of the Novi of only around nicities. Ravnikar also designed the city's won- refurbished tobacco factory, or enjoy with chef Iskandar Guillaume set- Fluid:arhitektura in 2010, the restau- excellent olive oil (Viva Diego – we will quince was exquisite. The meat was +381648132015 ting standards for everyone else 300,000 people, derful Modern Gallery, which showcases the view over the whole city from B Bar, rants that occupied these premises remember this brand), which is a genu- done just right – soft and tender, still just Price Guide: 3500-6500 dinars Sad Fair and will be open in town. However, more depth from 6:45pm on Friday and Ljubljana is by no FROM PLECNIK TO SQUATS works of the most famous Slovenian art- which is on top of Ljubljana's InterConti- by the glass would put the wine generally showed little or no interest ine taste of Istria. slightly pink on the inside, with a beau- per person for three courses without from 11am on Saturday. The stretch of imagina- ists of 20th century, from the sculptor nental. selection on an equal footing with in interior design. This trend continues Our first starter was the sweet red tiful golden crust on the outside. A very drinks spotlight, unsurprisingly, is on Wtion a metropolis – but it is working hard While Ljubljana's most distinctive fea- Lojze Dolinar to the art collective "Neue Clubbing in Ljubljana starts from the glory of the food. The pos- with the new Langouste; the interior is pepper gazpacho, mild but hearty, beers, from Bavaria’s Paualner to shed its reputation for sleepiness. ture is its medieval castle, perched above Slowenische Kunst", who are also asso- around 1am, and the popular places are sibility of having a set menu with calm and basic, the finishes used are of with a deep, rich aroma. A small bite and Maisel’s Weisse, to local wine-pairing suggestions would Most visitors still come to Ljubljana the old town, the city's picturesque ciated with the most famous Slovenian the legendary Klub K4, which has been the best quality, a number of paintings of pie with mangulitza pork kulen (tra- craft breweries, like Sombor’s also provide a true Michelin-star ONCE KOVAČ, ALWAYS KOVAČ Ravangrad brewery, all served for easy access to Slovenia's fantastic beauty is in a significant part due to the band, Laibach. around since 1989, and Cirkus, which is experience. by famous Serbian 20th-century artists ditional sausage from Vojvodina) that ONCE ”KAFANA”, ALWAYS ”KAFANA” by waiters and waitresses in interior, including the amazingly beauti- ingenuity of Joze Plecnik, a Ljubljana lo- Ljubljana's fondness for good design located inside an old cinema. While the hang on the walls… It’s all put together was served on the side gave this dish RESTAURANT KOVAČ Bavarian-style dirndls and ful Bled and Bohinj lakes and the Julian cal whose distinctive style was built on continues to this day, evidenced not clubbing scene is less varied and intense Basic Info Rating with an obviously generous budget, but an interesting twist – simple, but well modern ethno restaurant lederhosens. Visitors will also be Alps – and rarely venture far from its pic- the Vienna Secession style of his mentor, only by a plethora of good quality de- than in Belgrade, the vibe is more casual without much concept or attitude. The thought out. entertained by a variety of local turesque Habsburg-era old town, domi- Otto Wagner. sign shops dotted around the city, but and attracts diverse sets, all of which are view itself is enough, they probably An interesting tartar–carpaccio cross, Overall VERY GOOD acts ranging from Vojvodina folk nated by a fairy-tale castle. After a successful career in Prague also new projects, such as the distinc- readier to dance. thought, and we would agree … but that, (a small ball of tartar rolled in a couple music superstar Zvonko Bogdan But this small gem of a city warrants and Vienna, Plecnik re-designed tive square mosque designed by Bevk In the unlikely case that the partying Wine selection EXCELLENT too, could have been better expressed of thin carpaccio slices) served with to Serbia’s favourite Irish music a couple of days of exploring on its own. swathes of his hometown in the 1930s. Perovic architects and the Stozice Sports (or the hangovers) in Ljubljana become Wine service VERY GOOD using contemporary architectural lan- polenta chips, pickled sardelle and ca- band, Orthodox Celts. The event is ticketed – 600 dinars for a Although Slovenians themselves often His best-known work in Ljubljana is the Hall, designed by Sadar Vuga studio in too much, you can always escape to the Wine pricing €17 - €963 guage. pers-based sauce, sprinkled with green single day and 1,000 dinars for spend their free time enjoying the gor- embankment along the Ljubljanica, in- 2009. huge Tivoli park in the city centre– or go The bold, minimal menu instantly tea powder and watercress leaves was two – and you can also book ta- geous landscape of the interior, Ljublja- cluding the elegant open market and the Unusually for a city of its size, Ljublja- on a bracing climb to the castle to enjoy reveals the attitude of the kitchen. It is our second starter. Apart from the look, Wine and VERY GOOD Bulevar Oslobođenja 221, Tel: 011 2462 343 na's stylish cafés, restaurants and clubs city's main square, which stretches over na also has a strong history of alternative some peace and quiet and admire the shorter than short, obviously intended the interesting thing about this dish is bles. For more information, visit: www.restorankovac.com www. oktoberfest2018.rs are not short of locals lounging about three small bridges, called Tromostje. art communities. The most famous is pristine beauty of this great, green capital. food pairing to give just a vague idea of the range that the taste is built as a play on differ- 12 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, Octobber 12 - Thursday, October 25, 2018 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, Octobber 12 - Thursday, October 25, 2018 13 BOOKS ARTS

Festival of Choreographic Serious Money Miniatures at National Theatre

The 22nd Festival of Choreo-

Remains Arts in brief graphic Miniatures will take place at the National Theatre from October 11-13. On the Dream for last day of the festival, the finalists will compete for the main festival prize. This fina- Serbia’s Young le will be open to the public. The event starts at 8pm at the National Theatre’s Rasa Authors Plaovic Scene (Francuska 3). Entrance is free. Young writers in Serbia are exploring new Solo Exhibition by Massinissa ways of getting published – but very few Selmani can afford to drop the day job in a country Thanks to the French Cultural Centre, the art- where books just don’t earn many people a ist Massinissa Selmani is already well known to Bel- living. grade audiences. This time he is coming back with his Ivana NIKOLIC only into English but into other languages first solo exhibition, which whose people might find the novel inter- will open at the Museum of ros Timic vividly remem- esting. African Art (Andre Nikolica bers the evening he was "As for the region, I know that many 14) on Thursday, October 18, told his very first novel was readers in Bosnia and Herzegovina and at 7pm. The exhibition will one of three winning titles Montenegro have read Eighth Life, but it remain on display through Krcekovic managed to sell out the first 200-copy edition of his novel by personally delivering some of the copies to readers. Photo: Vojislav Gelevski at a major literary competi- would be nice to translate the books into February 24. Entrance is Ution in Serbia. It was December 2013, and Macedonian as well," he adds. He also plans to translate Aleksa into As a prize, the Cultural Centre will pub- Like her colleagues, she also uses so- free. he was at his best friend's. Eighth Life will be presented at the up- English and launch an electronic version lish her winning collection of poems in cial networks to communicate with her "I am not sure I expected it, but I really coming Belgrade International Book Fair as well – but that will have to wait a bit. the coming months. readers and to promote her work. RTS Symphonic wanted my novel to be chosen; I wanted later this month. Asked about what it means to be a Narandzic, who currently works at When it comes to the finances, Narand- Orchestra and Choir it badly," Timic told BIRN. young writer who is yet to affirm his or BIRN as Balkan Transitional Justice zic admits that she has no ambition to with Ramon Vargas "When I got the news, I remember STORIES her work, Kreckovic argues that his nov- proofreader for BSC languages and Bal- earn a living by writing right now. As a thinking: this means my career as a writer ABOUT PERSISTENCE el and his short stories offer an answer, kan Insight Editorial Assistant, admits she competition winner, she cannot earn As part of the Belgrade has just began. This will change my life," as they are "stories about persistence", didn't expect her poems to win. money from her books – the only prize Music Festival, BEMUS, the the 27-year-old says. Vladan Kreckovic did not make the based on his own attitude towards life in "I need a certification of quality very she gets is seeing the book published. Radio Television Serbia, RTS, After a year-and-a-half, Timic's first same beginner's mistake. When think- Serbia. often and because of that it is great that And this young author claims she is fine Symphonic Orchestra and novel Eighth Life (Osmi Zivot) was finally ing about where to publish his first nov- "It is hard, and we all have lots of inner someone else told me, 'Hey, this is great, with that. Choir are teaming up with published by one of the leading publish- el, earlier this year, Kreckovic chose a and outer obstacles," he says. let's publish it,'" the young writer explained. "For me [money] is really not impor- celebrated Mexican tenor ing houses in the country. smaller publishing house, thanks to his "But with a little bit of will, if we are able That is why she prefers competing for tant. For me it is more important that I Ramon Vargas to play some A psychological thriller following the mentor Darko Tadic, who helps young to deal with them, life becomes bearable book publishing as a prize than paying have a publishing house on my side that of Leonard Bernstein’s most life of a young boy and the traumas that authors write and publish their first and, even more important, full of oppor- herself to publish the work. will help me to promote the published famed songs, from West haunt him as an adult in a post-war soci- works. tunities for self-realisation." "I do think that winning a competition work," Narandzic concludes. Side Story to the Chichester ety, the novel was well received by crit- "Taking smaller steps [with smaller While still "a newcomer in the world of has a specific value," she argues. While last year Nema Veze was official- Psalms and some of his op- ics and audiences; the initial print run of publishing companies] is better, as that literature," Kreckovic says he still hopes Even though many argue that translat- ly promoted during the Belgrade Book Cuban musician Chucho Vandez is a six-time Grammy winner Photo: Alejandro Perez RTS Big Band celebrates its 70th birthday this year, Photo: Courtesy of Belgrade Jazz Festival and a triple Latin Grammy winner. and to mark the occasion, is teaming up with a era arias as well. The concert 1,000 copies is almost sold out. way a writer learns more about the pro- writing can provide some authors with a ing poetry is extremely difficult, Narand- Fair, this time there will be no copies; they special guest, Bobby Shew (pictured). is on October 17 at the Ilija But getting to the actual reading public cess of book promotion, sales and distri- decent life in Serbia. zic says she uses a free verse, which ena- are all sold out. M Kolarac Endowment and was not that easy. Timic says newcomers bution," the 30-year-old told BIRN. Aleksa, or Through Snows and Sirens bles easier translation. starts at 8pm. Tickets cost are probably better off with smaller, less After he finished his novel, he was will not be exhibited at this year's Bel- However, she has one doubt: "I am not Mirjana Narandzic has been an between 1,200 dinars (~12 known publishing houses, because in advised to sell the copies exclusively grade book fair. sure if there is interest in something like employee of BIRN since 2017. ‘No Limits’ Promised euros) and 2,200 dinars that way they can get more attention. through his blog, Katelegos. that." (~18 euros) depending on "If you aren't an affirmed author, a big The young author, who holds a BA in POETRY IN A publishing house will hinder rather than Journalism and works in a non-profit WORLD OF PROSE seating. help you," he says, angrily, and explains: Belgrade-based organization Danube at This Year’s Jazz "You are a not-so-famous writer in a sea Competence Centre, embraced this plan Mirjana Narandzic, aged 26, from Bel- Belgrade Insight International of well-known ones, and everyone will completely. He even delivered some ten grade municipality of Obrenovac, has al- Team Recommends Underwater Short rather devote their time to them, in terms copies on a bicycle himself. ways been into writing. Spectacular Film Festival of marketing and distribution, rather than "In this direct sales experience, I got She started with short stories back If you are having trouble finding quality books in English to you." an intuitive feeling about how to reach a in high school but soon realised her from and about the region, here are a few of our Last year’s festival was seen as one of has defied genre boundaries and rede- Cuban musician Chucho Vandez is a The fifth edition of an annual That is why, in 2016, he decided to pub- wider audience, which can be a great fil- thoughts would better sound in prose. team's recommendations: Whether you like the most innovative and daring editions fined minimalist or ambient music styles. six-time Grammy winner and a three- festival that all those who lish his second novel, 40 Days (40 Dana) ter when choosing to work with big pub- Years after those high school begin- traditional sounds ever, and this year, the organisers and Julia Hulsmann Octe, an all-female time Latin Grammy winner who will are passionate about scuba through a smaller publishing house in the lishing houses, if, of course they want to nings, Narandzic decided to give it a try CONTEMPORARY FICTION selectors seem determined to push the octet helmed by German pianist Ju- perform with his legendary Jazz Bata diving, marine biology, ecol- southern city of Nis. cooperate with you as an author at all," and signed up for a literary competition or something much bar even further, expanding the vision lia Hulsmann and featuring a violin, a band that night as well. Both concerts ogy and cinematography With this one, everything was easier, he says. set up by the Novi Sad-based Matica Srp- • Constantine's Crossing – Dejan Stojiljkovic and perceptions of jazz in Serbia and en- cello, bass, drums and three vocalists, will take place in Kombank Hall. should not miss, the Inter- • Estoril – Dejan Tiago Stankovic he claims, as by then he also had more ex- His novel, Aleksa, or Through Snows ska, the oldest Serbian literary, cultural more experimental, compassing all the subtle cultural, artis- opens the third festival day. Later on, in Dom Omladine, Cor- national Underwater Film • Kaya, Belgrade and a Good American – Mirjana Djurdjevic perience. He hired a distributing house, and Sirens (Aleksa, ili Kroz Snegove i Si- and scientific society, which also pub- tic, social and even political forms that Big Band Radio Television Serbia, tex from Norway will showcase the Festival, takes place from • Lake Como – Srdjan Valjarevic which took 100 books to sell in book- rene) follows its main character, Luka lishes books. there is something come with this musical genre. RTS celebrates its 70th birthday this best of Scandinavian jazz, followed October 22-28. This year, it • The Cyclist Conspiracy – Svetislav Basara stores, while he sold another 200 copies Stamenkovic, and the way he deals with She was soon told that her collection This year’s slogan, “No Limits”, seems year, and to mark the occasion, is team- by the garage rock-infused band The is hosted by the Belgrade • The House of Memory and Oblivion – Filip David himself – mostly using social networks. an event that changes his life forever: on of poems, Nema Veze ("No connection", for everyone at this closely aligned with that concept. ing up with a special guest, Bobby Thing, widely considered to be one of Aquarium and Tropicarium • The Walnut Mansion – Miljenko Jergovic (Milenka Vesnica 3) with As a result, his second novel is sold out a snowy winter's day in 1999, Luka's best or 'Doesn't matter") was among five win- Opening the festival on October 25 Shew, whose trumpet-playing contrib- the most innovative and exciting jazz year’s five-day Bel- programmes starting at 5pm and Timic is considering printing a sec- friend, Aleksa, is kidnapped. The 10-year- ning titles and that, as a prize, it would be CLASSICS will be one of Serbia’s most popular jazz uted to famous scores for movies and bands today. ond edition due to the large interest. olds never see each other again. published, which happened later in 2017. grade Jazz Festival. bands, Fish In Oil, supported by legend- TV shows such as Grease, Rocky, Mup- The final day of the festival brings us each day. Day tickets cost However, whether writers opt for prom- Although to some readers Aleksa is a "Even though the manuscript was • The Bridge on the Drina - Ivo Andric ary American experimental guitarist pet Show and Streets of San Francisco. the Kurt Elling Quintet and Enrico Rava 200 dinars (~2 euros). inent names or for lesser-known houses to pure thriller, the novel is also a story about published with a symbolic circulation of • The Damned Yard – Ivo Andric and composer Marc Ribot, followed by The night continues with the unclas- Quintet, featuring Joe Lovano at Kom- th publish their work, their chances of mak- growing up and overcoming the traumas 300 copies, this contest was really huge • The Encyclopedia of the Dead – Danilo Kis David GALIC Ben Wendel Seasons Band. sifiable Jimi Tenor, who, for this occa- bank Hall. Over at Dom Omladine, the 13 Small Format ing a living simply from writing are almost that then hinder one's life, thoughts and support for those who are not sure about • The Mountain Wreath – Petar Petrovic Njegos The second part of the first festival sion, will play his cult album from the programme offers an overview of the Mosaic Exhibition nonexistent in Serbia, Timic claims. behaviour. the quality of their writing, and a great op- ne of the best known night will feature Infinitude, a duo of 1990s, Intervision, in its entirety. The Serbian jazz scene, with the Ugljesa No- "Only those whose books are very So far, Kreckovic has sold around 200 portunity for [young writers] to get heard NON-FICTION AND GUIDES jazz festivals in the re- sisters (Ingrid and Christine Jensen) night closes with Kompost 3 from Aus- vakovic Quintet, Uros Spasojevic Pro- The Association of Applied expensive, and which people still buy copies of Aleksa in three weeks, and feels of," she told BIRN, adding that the book is gion, the Belgrade Jazz playing the trumpet and saxophone re- tria, offering an exciting combination of ject and Irina Karamarkovic. and Fine Artists of Serbia is despite the price, can earn a living from more than satisfied with the result. now entirely sold out. • A guide to the Serbian mentality - Momo Kapor Festival is always one of spectively, and the Lan Trio. Miles Davis-esque funky jazz and Euro- The 34th Belgrade Jazz Festival will organising the 13th exhibition writing," he says. However, one small problem is that he Narandzic who will soon graduate in • Belgrade Bites - Yvo Kuhling the most hotly anticipat- Pianist Marco Mezquida will open pean progressive psychedelic rock. take place from October 25-29 in its tra- of small-format mosaics, as "The rest of us all have our real jobs," printed the novel in Serbian Cyrillic, so Comparative Literature from the Bel- • Belgrade the eternal city - Aleksander Diklic Oed cultural events of the year in Serbia. the second festival day, followed by Night four will be headlined by Youn ditional venue, Dom Omladine (Make- part of its Miniature series says Timic, who has worked as a librarian many people from Bosnia and Croatia grade Faculty of Philology, didn't stop • Hiking and biking in Serbia - Katherina Haberli Harker Back for its 34th edition, the Jazz Fes- Qantar, led by the celebrated Israeli Sun Nah, a South Korean jazz singer donska 22), as well as in Kombank Hall of exhibitions. The exhibition in the central town of Smederevo since who were interested in ordering it had to with the Matica Srpska competition. • Serbia Bites - Yvo Kuhling tival brings together young and old mu- bassist and composer of jazz, funk, Is- famous for her renditions of classics (Decanska 14) with five days of great at the Association’s gallery he graduated from the Belgrade Faculty forget the idea, as they couldn't read the She sent her second collection of po- • Serbia's Great War 1914-1918 - Andrej Mitrovic sic fans, spanning the widest spectrum. raeli, Armenian and Moroccan music, by Lou Reed, Joni Mitchell and Paul Si- music at both venues. space, ULUPUDS Gallery, of Philology. letters. ems, Da Se Ne Javim Uvek (Not to Re- • Snippets of Serbia - Emma Fick Whether you like traditional jazz and Omer Avital. mon, and whose new album features Tickets are available for each indi- (Uzun Mirkova 13) opens His latest novel is expected to be out by The interest "went beyond my expec- spond Always) to an anonymous compe- • The Balkans: Nationalism, War and the Great Powers - Misha Glenny bossa nova or contemporary avant- The second part of the evening is re- an all-star roster of contemporary and vidual festival day starting from 1,000 on October 24 at 7pm and the end of the year. tations," Kreckovic admits, adding that tition in the Montenegrin town of Pluzine, • The Book of My Lives – Aleksandar Hemon garde compositions and free-form im- served for the Miklos Lukacs Trio per- experimental American jazz names dinars (~8 euros), and promotional all- all artwork on display will • The magic of Belgrade - Momo Kapor As for the international public, Timic he now plans to print another edition in and this July she won a prize for the best provisation, you’ll find something to forming Cimbiozis and cult Australian such as Jamie Saft, Marc Ribot and Dan access tickets for every concert, costing be available for purchase. plans one day to translate his novel not Latin letters. young author under 27. enjoy at the Belgrade Jazz Fest. trio The Necks, a band that for decades Rieser. 4,000 dinars (~34 euros). Entrance is free. 14 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, Octobber 12 - Thursday, October 25, 2018 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, Octobber 12 - Thursday, October 25, 2018 15 GOING OUT WHAT'S ON Belgrade’s Best Year-Round Jazz Hubs summer, while the interior exudes a CLUBBING October is far from comfortable atmosphere; the decor looks more like someone's home than the only month a bar. when you can You can catch live jazz music at AND LIVE MUSIC Telma every Monday, but be sure to get catch great jazz a seat early because the gigs are very popular. They start at around 9pm. FRIDAY OCTOBER 12 • Dragon’s Fuel, Akademija 28, • IQV, Club Fest, Gradski park 2, sounds in the Nemanjina 28, 10pm 10pm JAZZ BASTA • 4th Indirect Festival, different • Los Paris Tapes / The Doors • Makao Band, Bitef Art Café, Serbian capital. (KARADJORDJEVA 43) locations, 9pm Tribute Band, Elektropionir, Mitropolita Petra 8, 10pm • DesCon 2018 Opening Night, Cetinjska 15, 9pm • Dogs in Kavala, Haze & Ash, The name says it all; this "jazz garden" Elektropionir, Cetinjska 15, 8pm • PSI, SubBeerni Centar, Cetinjska Grad Cultural Center, Brace David GALIC has been one of the most popular • Mikula I Pratnja, Akademija 28 15, 9pm Krsmanovica 4, 9pm Club, Nemanjina 28, 10pm • Gift Depeche Mode Tribute places to see and hear live music • Salsadrom, Dorcol Platz, • Flannel - Grunge Special, Club Band, Club Fest, Gradski park 2, ctober may be the month in Belgrade for some time. Located Dobracina 59b, 9.30pm Fest, Gradski park 2, 10pm 10pm • FAM, Drugstore, Bulevar Despota for Jazz in Belgrade, right off the concrete steps that lead • Johnny Cash Live Night, Polet, • Kal Band, Muha Bar, Kralja Petra Stefana 115, 11pm thanks to the famed from the Brankov Bridge down to the 18, 9pm Cetinjska 15, 9pm • BombON, DOT, Francuska 6, 11pm • Girls, Boys and Toys Band, Bitef annual jazz festival, but popular nightlife and cultural district of • Salsa y Punto, Muha Bar, Kralja • Vuk Vukosavljevic / Mike Ride Petra 18, 9pm Art Café, Mitropolita Petra 8, 11pm that doesn't mean that Savamala, Jazz Basta is a great place to - Season Opening, Brankow, , Bitef Art Café, • Terror from the Deep, Strogi there'sO isn't great jazz to be heard in the visit all year round. • Makao Band Crnogorska 12, 11pm Mitropolita Petra 8, 10pm Centar, Gospodar Jevremova 43, city all year round. It's a bit pricier than most similar • Deep Vibes, Martinez, • Pacific Boilers, Strogi Centar, 9pm Karadjordjeva 46, 11pm Here's a list of some of the top clubs bars, which is partly because it's a Gospodar Jevremova 43, 9pm • Kisobran Party, Grad Cultural • Mash up, Mr. Stefan Braun, and bars to check out in Belgrade, if live bit classier than most jazz spots but • Humanitarian party, Kvaka 22, Center, Brace Krsmanovica 4, 11pm Nemanjina 4, 11pm jazz music is what you crave on your mostly because a "musicians' fee" is Ruzveltova 39, 10pm • Mimi Mercedez, Drugstore, nights out. added to the bill. Definitely one of the • VATRA, Grad Cultural Center, Bulevar Despota Stefana 115, 10pm , Club SATURDAY OCTOBER 20 most-visited jazz venues in Belgrade, Brace Krsmanovica 4, 11pm • Vitanov All Night Long 20/44, Usce bb, 11pm MUHA BAR make sure to get a reservation because • Sonja Sajzor’s 90s Nostalgia, KOLARAC Drugstore, Bulevar Despota Stefana • Cojke, Ludost bar, Karadjordjeva • Big Heavy Metal Fest 3, (KRALJA PETRA 18) it's popular with locals and foreigners 115, 11pm 44, 11pm SubBeerni Centar, Cetinjska 15, PROGRAMME alike. • Forward Transition / Jackie / • Retro VS. Komerc, Imago CUK, 7.30pm Centrally located, just a couple of Thinker, Club 20/44, Usce bb, 11pm Decanska 14, 11pm • Sizip + Dram, Bozidarac, steps from Belgrade's most popular SOUL SOCIETY • Dooshan & Malina, Ludost bar, • Cherry On Top, DOT, Francuska Radoslava Grujica 3, 8pm pedestrian zone, Knez Mihailova, (DRINCICEVA 1) Karadjordjeva 44, 11pm 6, 11pm • The Luna Blues Band, Soul • Damjanov Zelenko, Nixon Bar, Muha Bar is another slightly upscale • BombON, DOT, Francuska 6, 11pm Society, Skver Mire Trajlovic 1, Misarska 7, 10pm 9.30pm place to catch live jazz. It's not a big bar, This is basically the old Bitef Art Cafe • Funky Junkie, Gajba, Karadjordjeva 44/II, 11pm • Marko Gangbanger – Season • Prti Bee Gee, Club Fest, Gradski FRIDAY, OCTOBER 12 Production: Music Centre so the gigs are usually small. rebranded, meaning that it's still one of • Lule, Nixon Bar, Misarska 7, 10pm Opening, Strafta Club, Admirala park 2, 11pm Admission free Concert Hall, 8pm Nevertheless, you can hear excellent the best live music clubs in the city, just , Geprata 14, 11pm , Bitef • Beyond 2000 – Season Opening • Girls, Boys and Toys Band Edwin E.S. Kim,violin Concert Hall, 8pm jazz musicians play here on most nights. operating under a different name. Strafta Club, Admirala Geprata 14, • Not Your Saturday Baby, Mr. Art Café, Mitropolita Petra 8, 11pm Jazz gigs can be found in a rage of Belgrade joints, from alternative places like Strogi Photo: Pixabay Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4, 11pm Natalija Mladenovic, piano If you're after something classier and Centar to elegant cafes like Muha. This has been one of the most 11pm • Mile Voli Disko, Grad Cultural Programme: Janacek, Schumann, RTS Symphony Orchestra and Choir quieter, a nice place to have some top- important venues for live music in • Deep Vibes, Martinez, Center, Brace Krsmanovica 4, 11pm Beethoven Conductor: Bojan Sudjic SUNDAY OCTOBER 14 shelf cognac and a Cuban cigar while What's great about Strogi Centar is decorated like a somewhat bizarre and reggae, you should definitely head Belgrade for over a decade and it Karadjordjeva 46, 11pm • Lansiranje, Drugstore, Bulevar Production: CEBEF Soloist: Ramon Vargas, tenor • Mash up, Mr. Stefan Braun, Despota Stefana 115, 11pm Admission: 300 dinars Programme: Leonard Bernstein: listening to light jazz music, this is it. that the venue is so unpredictable. antique shop, you'll catch some great for Strogi Centar. continues that tradition under the • Jethro Tull, Sava Centerm Nemanjina 4, 11pm • Schwabe All Night Long, Club West Side Story, Chichester Psalms, Shows are rarely scheduled in advance, jazz gigs. name of Soul Society. The club works Milentija Popovica 9, 8pm SATURDAY, OCTOBER 13 opera arias 20/44, Usce bb, 11pm STROGI CENTAR so you don't know until a couple days Sometimes these are by younger TELMA on Thursday, Fridays and Saturdays • Sunday matinee: Above Us The Production: CEBEF SATURDAY OCTOBER 13 • Cojke, Ludost bar, Karadjordjeva (JEVREMOVA 43) before the gig whether someone is musicians, and sometimes by veterans (MISARSKA 7) from 9pm to 2am. Waves (GR), Club Fest, Gradski Concert Hall, 8pm Admission: 1400, 1800, 2200 dinars park 2, 5pm 44, 11pm BEMUS 2018 going to be playing there or not. of the jazz scene. There are even improv All the best names in jazz, blues, funk • Taraf De Haidouks, Kombank • Djordje Obradovic Trio, Muha • Cherry On Top, DOT, Francuska Vadim Rudenko, piano THURSDAY, OCTOBER 18 Strogi Centar is not profiled as a jazz There are no rules about when nights, when jazz students come to jam With a fantastic location in a small, and soul play Soul Society, so even if no Dvorana, Decanska 14, 8pm Bar, Kralja Petra 18, 7pm 6, 11pm Programme: Bach, Mozart, Brahms, • 4th Indirect Festival, different Rachmaninoff, Tchaikovsky Concert Hall, 8pm club first and foremost, but it is still to catch live shows at Strogi Centar with each other. tucked-away cobbled street in the city jazz band is playing on any given night, • When We Played Rock’n’roll, • Iyan Milles / Kidflo - Season probably one of the most interesting either; they just seem to be booked Jazz gigs aren't the only types of gigs centre, Telma is a great place for drinks, there's only a very small chance that locations, 9pm Opening, Brankow, Crnogorska Production: CEBEF RTS Folk Orchestra & soloists Dorcol Platz, Dobracina 59b, Admission: 900, 1300, 1600 dinars Admission: 100 dinars and entertaining places you can visit to spontaneously. However, if you give you'll catch here. But if you like live food and music. The bar and restaurant the band won't be really, really good, 8.30pm 12, 11pm hear jazz sounds. in to the charm or the place, which is music, especially jazz, blues, soul, funk has an excellent little yard over the whatever they're playing. • Madhouse, Martinez, • Not Your Saturday Baby, Mr. SUNDAY, OCTOBER 14 SATURDAY, OCTOBER 20 Karadjordjeva 46, 9pm Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4, 11pm • Por Que No, Mr. Stefan Braun, Concert Hall, 11am Concert Hall, 8pm Nemanjina 4, 11pm SUNDAY OCTOBER 21 Kolarac Podium of Chamber Music Belgrade Philharmonic Orchestra Jethro Tull Taraf de Caliu Miomira Vitas, 40 years of the Slovenian Philharmonic Choir MONDAY OCTOBER 15 • Madhouse, Martinez, Artistic work Conductor: Gabriel Feltz Production: Music Centre Akiho Tsujii, soprano Karadjordjeva 46, 9pm ethro Tull is one of the few bands from the golden years of progres- he legendary Roma orchestra from Romania, Taraf Admission free Charlotte Quadt, mezzosoprano • Monday Jazz, Telma Bar, • Por Que No, Mr. Stefan Braun, sive rock that still perform and tour with regularity. With a career de Haidouks, has been on hiatus for more than 15 Brenden Gunnell, tenor Misarska 7, 9pm Nemanjina 4, 11pm Markus Eiche, baritone spanning over 50 years, 30 studio and live albums that have years, leaving a huge gap in the genre of world • Above Balkan RnB, Mr. Stefan Concert Hall, 8pm Programme: Gostuski, Beethoven Jsold more than 50 million copies, the band is a real cultural Tmusic. The virtuoso musicians from Clejani, Braun, Nemanjina 4, 11pm MONDAY OCTOBER 22 Scharoun Ensemble Production: CEBEF treasure. Occasions to see such great names live are not that com- Romania, gained world notoriety almost half a century Soloists of Berlin Philharmonic Admission: 1400, 1800, 2200 dinars mon anymore, so if you have at least a vague interest in the history ago and managed to gain a cult following over the last TUESDAY OCTOBER 16 • Monday Jazz, Telma Bar, Orchestra FREE COPY Programme: Schubert, Mozart, SUNDAY, OCTOBER 21 of progressive rock music, make sure to check out Jethro Tull in several decades, filling huge venues across the globe Misarska 7, 9pm • Como Asesinar a Felipes, Brahms, Dvorak concert on October 14 at Sava Centre (Milentija Popovica 9). and even appearing in movies as musicians and as ac- • Above Balkan RnB, Mr. Stefan Elektropionir, Cetinjska 15, 8pm Production: CEBEF Concert Hall, 11am Braun, Nemanjina 4, 11pm The band, helmed as always by the legendary singer and flutist tors. • Big Dance Party, Dorcol Platz, Admission: 1200, 1500, 1800 dinars Kolarac Podium of Chamber Music th Belgrade Percussionists Ian Anderson, is coming to Belgrade as part of their “50 Anniversa- Today, the Taraf (which is a Romani word for “orches- Publisher: BIRN d.o.o. Dobracina 59b, 8pm ry Tour” of the region. The current lineup consists of Ian Anderson on tra”) is back under a new moniker - Taraf de Caliu, taking TUESDAY OCTOBER 23 TUESDAY, OCTOBER 16 Production: Music Centre Kolarceva 7/5, 11 000 Belgrade • Urban Salsa Night, Imago CUK, Admission free flute, acoustic guitar and vocals, Florian Ophale on guitar, John O'Hara the name of its lead violinist. Well known to Belgrade world Decanska 14, 10pm • Urban Salsa Night, Imago CUK, Concert Hall, 8pm on piano, harmonica and vocals, David Goodier on bass and vocals and music fans, the group is back with a big concert in Kombank Phone/Fax: +381 11 4030 300 • Dizel Party, Mr. Stefan Braun, Brodsky Quartet TUESDAY, OCTOBER 23 Decanska 14, 10pm Scott Hammond on drums. Tickets for this extraordinary concert range from Hall (Decanska 14) on October 13, at 8pm. Tickets for the concert Nemanjina 4, 11pm Programme: Shostakovich, Editor in Chief: Marija Ristic • Dizel Party, Mr. Stefan Braun, 1,990 dinars (~17 euros) to 3,990 dinars (~34 euros) depending on seating. go from 1,500 dinars (~13 euros) to 3,000 dinars (~25 euros) depending Beethoven, Tanaka, Mendelssohn Music Gallery, 7pm Nemanjina 4, 11pm Production: CEBEF Evening of the Gusle on seating. BIRN editorial team: WEDNESDAY OCTOBER 17 Admission: 900, 1200, 1400 dinars Traditional music Marcus Tanner • The Handsome Family, Dom WEDNESDAY OCTOBER 24 belgradeinsighteditor@birn. Omladine, Makedosnka 22, 9pm WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 17 WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 24 • Candy Shop, Mr. Stefan Braun, • Remi Ponosijan Trio, Kombank eu.com Music Gallery, 6pm Music Gallery, 6pm Nemanjina 4, 11pm Dvorena, Decanska 14, 8pm Music Workshop Lidija Bozinovic, violin Sales & Marketing: Marija • Candy Shop, Mr. Stefan Braun, Katarina Vasiljevic, violin Production: Music Centre THURSDAY OCTOBER 18 Nemanjina 4, 11pm Petrovic Jasmina Rakovic, piano Admission free +381 11 4030 302 • Oleg Kireyev Jazz Band, Soul THURSDAY OCTOBER 25 Society, Skver Mire Trajlovic 1, [email protected] Lepa Brena at Stark Arena 9.30pm • Rambo Amadeus, Zvezdara Subscription & Distribution: • Bane Gluvakov Trio, Club Fest, Theatre, Milana Rakica 38, 7.30pm Gradski park 2, 10pm Lepa Brena, a Yugoslav turbo-folk sensa- BG Heavy Metal Fest Goran Knezevic • Sasquatch, Dorcol Platz, tion will be performing at Belgrade’s Vol. 3 at SubBeerni Centar • We are Old School w/Ike & Dobracina 59b, 9pm , Ludost bar, Karadjordjeva Stark Arena for two nights, on October +381 63 562 265 Prema • The Caveman, Grad Cultural 44, 10pm Rap Star Mimi Mercedez at Drugstore The Cavemen Invade KC Grad Lovefest Fire with 20 and 21. Brena, or Fahreta Zivojinovic, Fans of good ol’ classic heavy metal Center, Brace Krsmanovica 4, [email protected] • Flashdance, Martinez, Pan-Pot and Fabio Florido is one of the top selling Yugoslav stars should check out the third edition of the 10pm Karadjordjeva 46, 10pm Arguably one of the biggest rappers Every time Belgrade booking agency with career stretching all the way back Belgrade Heavy Metal Fest, this time in Printing: POLITIKA stamparija • Smells Like K. Spirit / Nirvana , Mr. Stefan Braun, in Serbia right now, Mimi Mercedez is Bad Music for Bad People book a band, After last month’s huge party with Levon to 1980s. During her peak popularity, SubBeerni Centar (Cetinjska 11), on Oc- • SkyHigh d.o.o. Nemanjina 4, 11pm Tribute Band, SubBeerni Centar, coming back to Drugstore (Bulevar Des- you know it’s going to be an unorthodox Vincent and Green Velvet, Lovefest Fire she was not only the Yugoslavia’s most tober 20, starting at 7:30pm. The lineup Cetinjska 15, 9pm pota Stefana 115) on October 13 with her and raw rock’n’roll show. The concert is back with another stellar booking. This famous singer, but also acted and had features local legends mostly, including ISSN 1820-8339 = Belgrade FRIDAY OCTOBER 19 • We are Old School w/Ike & traditional “back to school” concert. She of New Zealand’s garage rock stars The time, they’re bringing Berlin-based dy- a doll made after her image. The two bands from the 1990s like Bombarder Insight Prema, Ludost bar, Karadjordjeva promises to play songs she doesn’t nor- Cavemen, booked for October 25 at KC namic duo Pan-Pot and another Berlin concerts are part of her world tour “Zar and Pergament, along with younger • Kanda, Kodza I Nebojsa, 44, 10pm mally perform in other venues, as well as Grad (Brace Krsmanovic 4) is not going club favorite, Fabio Florido to Belgrade, je vazno dal se peva ili pjeva”, which bands like Kuga, Patrias, Faust and COBISS.SR-ID: 149132556 Elektropionir, Cetinjska 15, 9pm • Flashdance, Martinez, her new album Kuma (Godmother) in its to be an exception of that rule. The con- with local support by Ilija Djokovic. The started in Austria and will end in Aus- Karizma. The one-night festival starts at Circulation: 2,000 • James Brown Tribute Band, Soul Karadjordjeva 46, 10pm entirety. Regular tickets cost 400 dinars cert starts at 9pm and tickets cost 800 party at Hangar H2L2 (Zorza Klemansoa tralia. The ticket prices start from 1,200 8pm. Tickets cost 500 dinars (~4 euros) Society, Skver Mire Trajlovic 1, • SkyHigh, Mr. Stefan Braun, (~3 euros) and VIP tickets are available at dinars (~7 euros) in presale and will cost 39) starts at 10pm on October 12. Tickets dinars (~10 euros) and are available via in presale and will cost 600 dinars at the 9.30pm Nemanjina 4, 11pm 1,000 dinars (~8 euros). 1,000 dinars (~8 euros) at the door. are available for 1,100 dinars (~9 euros). Eventim. door (~5 euros). 16 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, Octobber 12 - Thursday, October 25, 2018 ARTS AND CULTURE

SUNDAY OCTOBER 21 • Book Presentation: Puppet, • Delicatessen Monday, Grad Cultural FRIDAY OCTOBER 19 Theatre Adrijana Dvornic, Belgrade City Center, Brace Krsmanovica 4, 7pm • The Glass Menagerie (Williams), Library, Knez Mihailova 56, 7pm • Smart City Festival, Dom Omladine, FRIDAY OCTOBER 12 National Theatre in Belgrade, • 8th Stand Up Festival, Ben Akiba TUESDAY OCTOBER 16 Makedonska 22, 9am Francuska 3, 8.30pm Club, Brace Krsmanovica 6, 8pm • Exhibition: Biennial od Student • Why does Herr R. Run Amok • The Imaginary Invalid (Moliere), • Cycle: Modern Mechanical • Exhibition: Hungarian Literature, Graphics, Studentski Grad Cultural (Fassbinder, Fengler), Yugoslav Yugoslav Drama Theatre, Kralja Engineering, Ilija M. Kolarac Center, Bulevar Zorana Djindjica 179, Drama Theatre, Kralja Milana 50, 8pm Studentski Grad Cultural Center, Milana 50, 8pm Endowment, Studentski trg 5, 6pm Bulevar Zorana Djindjica 179, 10am 10am • Cycle: Modern Mechanical • Engaged Literature Cycle, Dom SATURDAY OCTOBER 13 MONDAY OCTOBER 22 SATURDAY OCTOBER 13 Engineering, Ilija M. Kolarac Omladine, Makedonska 22, 6pm Endowment, Studentski trg 5, 6pm • He Woman from Sarajevo (Andric), • The House of Bernarda Alba • Balkan Cheese festival, Dom • Exhibition: Macedonian Front Yugoslav Drama Theatre, Kralja (Lorca), National Theatre in Belgrade, Omladine, Makedonska 22, 10am 1916 – 1918, Gallery of Science and SATURDAY OCTOBER 20 Milana 50, 8pm Francuska 3, 8.30pm • 27th International Festival of Technology SANU, Djure Jaksica 2, • The Kraut Girl (Lazarevic), Yugoslav Ethnological Film, Ethnographic 6pm • Smart City Festival, Dom Omladine, SUNDAY OCTOBER 14 Drama Theatre, Kralja Milana 50, 8pm Museum, Studentski trg 13, 11am • Exhibition: Paint and Keep Silent!, Makedonska 22, 9am • Exhibition: Action Forms, Ilija Milos Sobajic, National Library of • Exhibition: 57th October Salon, • Electra (Kis), National Theatre in TUESDAY OCTOBER 23 Soskic, Museum of Contemporary Serbia, Skerliceva 1, 7pm different locations Belgrade, Francuska 3, 8.30pm Art, Usce 10, 1pm • Book Presentation: Logoreia • Next Generation, Goethe Institute, • Why does Herr R. Run Amok • Coffee White (Popovic), National • 12th Serbian Film of Fantasy Balkanica, Branko Dimitrijevic, Knez Mihailova 50, 6pm (Fassbinder, Fengler), Yugoslav Theatre in Belgrade, Francuska 3, Festival, different locations, 4pm Belgrade City Library, Knez Mihailova Drama Theatre, Kralja Milana 50, 8pm th 8.30pm • 9 Comic Book Festival, different 56, 7pm SUNDAY OCTOBER 21 • Tartuffe (Moliere), Yugoslav Drama locations, 7pm • Exhibition: Inter/Action, Dom MONDAY OCTOBER 15 th rd Theatre, Kralja Milana 50, 8pm • 8 Stand Up Festival, Ben Akiba Omladine, Makedonska 22, 7pm • 63 Belgrade Book Fair, Belgrade’s Club, Brace Krsmanovica 6, 8pm Fair, Bulevar Vojvode Misica 14, 6pm • Small Marital Crimes (Schmitt), WEDNESDAY OCTOBER 24 • Exhibition: Sejma Fere, Ilija M. National Theatre in Belgrade, Kolarac Endowment, Studentski trg WEDNESDAY OCTOBER 17 MONDAY OCTOBER 22 Francuska 3, 8.30pm • The Power of Darkness (Tolstoy), 5, 10am • King of Betajnova (Cankar), National Theatre in Belgrade, • Exhibition: Garden of Joy, Anne • Public speech and successful • Pain - The terrifying master of life, Yugoslav Drama Theatre, Kralja Francuska 3, 8.30pm Van Der Linden, Kvaka 22, Ruzveltova communication, Studentski Grad scientific conference, SANU Gallery, Milana 50, 8pm • Einstein’s Dreams (Lightman), 39, 10pm Cultural Center, Bulevar Zorana Djure Jaksica 2, 9am Yugoslav Drama Theatre, Kralja • Book Market, Polet, Cetinjska 15, 5pm Djindjica 179, 6pm • European Day of Sustainable TUESDAY OCTOBER 16 Milana 50, 8pm • Book Presentation: A prisoner of Communities, Magacin u Kraljevica SUNDAY OCTOBER 14 theater magic, Dragan Stankovic, Marka, Kraljevica Marka 4, 6pm • Balkan Spy (Kovacevic), National THURSDAY OCTOBER 25 Belgrade City Library, Knez Mihailova • “Lazar Komarcic” Fantasy Club, Theatre in Belgrade, Francuska 3, • 8th Stand Up Festival, Ben Akiba 56, 7pm Dom Omladine, Makedonska 22, 7pm 8.30pm • The Blacksmiths (Nikolic), National Club, Brace Krsmanovica 6, 8pm • Between Worlds, Dragan Dimcic, • Cycle: Feminism in Serbia – Theory, th Theatre in Belgrade, Francuska 3, • Exhibition: 57 October Salon, Studentski Grad Cultural Center, Research, Creativity (II), Ilija M. WEDNESDAY OCTOBER 17 8.30pm different locations Bulevar Zorana Djindjica 179, 7pm Kolarac Endowment, Studentski trg , Dorcol Platz, 5, 6pm • Hand Made Festival • Kidney Transplantation, Ilija M. • Cyrano (Rostand), National Theatre • Dobracina 59b, 11am Kolarac Endowment, Studentski trg in Belgrade, Francuska 3, 8.30pm Exhibitions and Events TUESDAY OCTOBER 23 • King Lear (Shakespeare), Yugoslav MONDAY OCTOBER 15 5, 6pm Drama Theatre, Kralja Milana 50, 8pm FRIDAY OCTOBER 12 • Exhibition: 57th October Salon, • Harvey Lloyd (USA), Breaking the THURSDAY OCTOBER 18 different locations THURSDAY OCTOBER 18 • Exhibition: Polenov, Gallery ’73, Light, Ilija M. Kolarac Endowment, • Gathering: Morocco, Ilija M. Kolarac Pozeska 83a, 10am Studentski trg 5, 1pm • Exhibition: Masinisa Selmani, Endowment, Studentski trg 5, 7.30pm • My Prizes (Bernhard), National • 27th International Festival of • Book Presentation: Karolina Suti, Museum of African Art, Andre Theatre in Belgrade, Francuska 3, Ethnological Film, Ethnographic Cultural Center of Belgrade, Knez Nikolica 14, 1pm WEDNESDAY OCTOBER 24 8.30pm Museum, Studentski trg 13, 11am Mihailova 6, 6pm • Serbian cultural heritage and • The Glass Neck (Srbljanovic), • 9th Comic Book Festival, Imago • Exhibition: Close-up View, Paja Europe, Belgrade City Library, Knez • History of Soul Music, Studentski Yugoslav Drama Theatre, Kralja Center of Urban Culture (CUK), Jovanovic Museum, Kralja Milana 21/ Mihailova 56, 6pm Grad Cultural Center, Bulevar Zorana Milana 50, 8pm Decanska 14, 5pm IV, 7pm • Book Presentation: Jelena Djindjica 179, 7pm • BOSIFEST Festival, Sava Center, • Exhibition: Second Chance, Ana Lengold, Teofil Pancic, Studentski • Exhibition: Small Format Mosaic, FRIDAY OCTOBER 19 Milentija Popovica 9, 5.30pm Batricevic, Bartselona Belgrade ULUPUDS Gallery, Uzun Mirkova 12, th st Grad Cultural Center, Bulevar Zorana • Exhibition: 57 October Salon, Design District, 1 floor, 7pm Djindjica 179, 7pm 7pm • Bollywood (Pelevic), National different locations • “Lazar Komarcic” Fantasy Club, • Cycle: Climate Changes – Simple Theatre in Belgrade, Francuska 3, • Exhibition: Towards New Dom Omladine, Makedonska 22, 7pm THURSDAY OCTOBER 25 8.30pm Renaissance, Miodrag Surjanac, • Vladeta Jerotic, Studentski Grad Stories About Complicated Gordana D. Putnik, Singidunum Cultural Center, Bulevar Zorana Problem, Ilija M. Kolarac • Cycle: Climate Changes – Simple SATURDAY OCTOBER 20 Gallery, Knez Mihailova 40, 7pm Djindjica 179, 7pm Endowment, Studentski trg 5, 6pm Stories About Complicated • Exhibition: The Intimate World • Cycle: Feminism in Serbia – Theory, • Book Presentation: The Verse and Problem, Ilija M. Kolarac • Accidental Death of an Anarchist of the Architect, Bozidar Bata Research, Creativity (II), Ilija M. Memory, Aleksandar Jovanovic, Endowment, Studentski trg 5, 6pm (Fo), Yugoslav Drama Theatre, Kralja Jankovic, National Library of Serbia, Kolarac Endowment, Studentski trg Ilija M. Kolarac Endowment, • Poetry Night, Milena Markovic and Milana 50, 8pm Skerliceva 1, 7pm 5, 6pm Studentski trg 5, 7.30pm Marko Tomas, Polet, Cetinjska 15, 8pm