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PAGE PLAN YOUR PLANNING TOOL KIT 1 Photos, itineraries, lists and suggestions YOUR TRIP to help you put together your perfect trip

25 Top Experiences ...... 4 GREG ELMS / LONELY PLANET IMAGES © 4 Welcome to Hawaii ...... 16 25 Need to Know ...... 18 TOP EXPERIENCES If You Like ...... 20 Month by Month ...... 23 Itineraries ...... 27

Outdoor Activities ...... 34 Travel with Children ...... 46 18 Need to COUNTRYCOUNTRYY &CI& CICITYTY DISCOVERDISCDISSCOOVER HIKINGHIKINGN & Know • TheTh originali i l • Best-ofB tf PHRASEBOOK Hawai CurrencyƵi Volcanoes Language National Park »Pack US dollars the boots, ($) friends –» you’llEnglish want them to explore the miles of trails running through this Regions at a Glance ...... 50 1 unique national park (p 283 ). Crossing lava Á ows, old and new, while steam vents huՖ and native Comprehensive Photo-packed honeycreepers sing in rain forested oases, it’s obvious why the Big Island is a world-class hiking des- • • tination. Day hikes, lava-tube adventures and backcountry treks (including to the summit of mighty Mauna Loa, p 248 ) are hallmarks here. What the park doesn’t usually oՖ er is live lava action – for that, head to Puna (p275 ). When to Go Your Daily • Adventurous • Inspirational Budget Budget less than $100 » Dorm beds: $20–30 # Lihu‘e Farmers markets GO Year-round » and plate lunches for cheap eats Honolulu # GO Year-round » Hit the beaches

# Lahaina and use public Lana'i City # Itiner- GO Year-round GO Year-round transportation instead Whether you’ve got six days or of renting a car 60, these itineraries provide a Midrange starting point for the trip of a aries Kailua-Kona # $100– lifetime. Want more inspiration? GO Year-round 50 Head online to lonelyplanet $250 Tropical climate, wet & dry seasons » Double room in a .com/thorntree to chat with other midrange hotel or B&B: travelers. $120–200 » Rental car from r e g i o n s $35/150 per day/week, Looking for other travel resources? excluding insurance High Season Shoulder Low Season and gas

at a H a w a i Ƶi the (Dec–Apr & Jun– (May & Sep) (Oct–Nov) Top End over É Aug) » Crowds and prices » Fewest crowds,

O Ƶahu Big Island W » Accommodation drop slightly between accommodation $250 •# in Waimea d prices up 50–100% schools’ spring break rates drop statewide » Resort hotel room or glance Beaches Hiking w 333 333 a and summer vacation (except possibly one-bedroom condo r » Christmas to New North d Food 333 Culture 333 C Waikiki) rental: over $200

Ka'ena o Year’s, and Easter are » Temperatures Shore É a Museums 333 Wildlife 33 Point st more expensive and remain mild, with » Weather is dry, hot » Three-course meal

Ready for some island hopping? busier mostly sunny and extremely humid with a cocktail in top É cloudless days, some restaurant: $75 É » Winter is slightly Wherever you travel around scattered showers Multicultural Trail Junkies Kane‘aki wetter (prime time Heiau the Hawaii Islands, fantastic É for whale watching); Modernism Unite! •# É O'ahu beaches, friendly faces and summer is hotter OƵahu will give you Kilauea, earth’s Makaha Ù•# Ƶono grinds (good eats) are the measure of most active vol- Beach

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practically guaranteed. Be É which confounds dreamscape for hik- É swept up by the kinetic energy W KAILUA the categories of ers: emerald valleys, a BAY i

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greets the 21st ing against rain t everyone, but especially for É century. forest and some of •# Honolulu beach bums. Be awed by the loftiest summits É Big City, Small É your boots will ever •#Waikiki towering sea cliffs on ancient Island Diamond R struggle to top. É•# HANAUMA KauaƵi, then gape at new land Three-quarters Head Shangri La BAY being birthed by volcanoes of state residents Cultural Border on the Big Island, Hawaii’s call Ƶthe Gathering Crossing Place’ home. It’s On the Big Island youngest isle. Escape to total crowded – everyone culture is participa- resort luxury on LanaƵi or learn rubs elbows on the tory – absorbed, to live life off the land on rural bus and the city rather than simply MolokaƵi, where Native Hawaiian sidewalks. Yet miles observed. You’re of beaches are just invited to create a traditions run strong. Whatever a short drive from lei, dance a hula, paradise you’re seeking, the Honolulu’s galler- beware the night Aloha State has it – all you have ies, museums and marchers and to do is open your eyes. monuments. watch as giant ulua (trevally) are caught Endless Feast the old HawaiƵi way. If you do nothing else on OƵahu, eat. Wildlife Japanese izakaya, Spinner dolphins island-style food leap, sea turtles glide trucks, high-wire and endangered fusion menus by nene cross the road Hawaii’s top chefs – regularly. In winter it’s all here, waiting humpback whales to be tasted. steal the show.

LONELYPLANET.COM APPS EBOOKS MAGAZINE GET MORE FROM YOUR TRIP PAGE For travel information, Location-based Guidebooks For travel stories, UNDERSTAND Learn about the big picture, so you advice, tips & digital guides for the street for your reader inspiration & ideas 563 chapters lonelyplanet.com/mobile lonelyplanet.com/ebooks lonelyplanet.com/magazine HAWAII can make sense of what you see

Hawaii Today ...... 564 population per sq mile HAWAII NEW YORK TEXAS History ...... 567 Lonely Planet in numbers ≈ 100 people Hawaii’s People ...... 584 70 12 100,000,000 190+ Hawaii’s Cuisine ...... 591 Hawaii Today languages spoken seconds pass Lonely Planet guidebooks countries covered

The Hawaiian Renaissance by our writers between posts sold, and still counting by a Lonely Planet Hawaiian Arts & Crafts .. 603 Twhough Hawaiian culture has been devastated in the 230-plus years since Western contact, it remains very much alive in more than just on our Thorn Tree guide lace names and hotel hula performances. Traditional arts like lau andanus leaf) weaving, kapaa (barkcloth) making, gourd carvin Lei ...... 609 tiki scul ting are all experiencing a recovery and revival. Healing arts Hawaii’s Cuisine lik i and laƵau lapaƵauu (plant medicine) are being travel forum The word ‘cuisine’ sounds too formal for Hawaii. It suggests a need fo students both within and beyond the Native Hawaiian communit . categories and rules, for a regimented approach to food that doesn’ There are Hawaiian-language immersion programs in ublic schools, Land & Sea ...... 614 quite work for the Islands. In Hawaii, the culinary tradition is one o inclusiveness, where foreign Á avors and cooking styles are incorporat ed and shared – usually in heaping, savory portions. This no-worrie mbrace of international Á avors is reÁ ected in the state’s most iconic Green Hawaii...... 623 ishes: the plate lunch; the loco moco (dish of rice, fried egg and ham urger patty topped with gravy or other condiments); the mighty S am STAY IN TOUCH uu – a rice ball topped with sautéed Spam and wrapped nori dried seaweed). It’s a fun, but tasty, insouciance that Á outs an rmal rule lonelyplanet.com/contact To best understand Hawaii’s gastronomic style, it’s hel ful to conside AUSTRALIA Locked Bag 1, Footscray, Victoria 3011 twitter.com/ %03 8379 8000, fax 03 8379 8111 lonelyplanet

Paper in this book is certified USA 150 Linden St, Oakland, CA 94607 facebook.com/ against the Forest Stewardship %510 250 6400, toll free 800 275 8555, fax 510 893 8572 lonelyplanet Council™ standards. FSC™ promotes environmentally responsible, socially lonelyplanet.com/ beneficial and economically viable UK 186 City Rd, London, EC1V 2NT management of the world’s forests. %020 7106 2100, fax 020 7106 2101 newsletter

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PAGE ON THE YOUR COMPLETE DESTINATION GUIDE In-depth reviews, detailed listings 52 ROAD and insider tips

Kaua‘i p462

Ni‘ihau p460 O‘ahu p54 Moloka‘i p428 COUNTRYCOUNTRY &&CI CITYCITY DISCOVERDISCSCOOVER HIKINGHIKINGN & • TheTh original i i l • Best-ofBtf PHRASEBOOK • Comprehensive • Photo-packed • Adventurous • InspirationalLana‘i Maui p412 p304

Kaho‘olawe Looking for other travel resources?p410

Hawai‘i the Big Island p165

LONELYPLANET.COM APPS EBOOKS MAGAZINE VITAL PRACTICAL INFORMATION TO ForPAGE travel information,SURVIVAL Location-based Guidebooks For travel stories, advice, tips & digital guides for the street for your readerHELP YOU HAVEinspiration A SMOOTH & ideas TRIP chapters627 GUIDElonelyplanet.com/mobile lonelyplanet.com/ebooks lonelyplanet.com/magazine

which vary tremendously season, demand, numbe stopovers etc. Competition is highes among airlines Á ying to H Directory A–Z ...... 628 nolulu from major US ma land cities, and the Ƶlowe fare’ Á uctuates constant Lonely Planet in numbers In general, return fares fr the US mainland to Haw cost $350 (in low season Transportation ...... 637 from the West Coast) to $800-plus (in high seaso from the East Coast). AirTech (%212-219-70 www.airtech.com) has ch Health ...... 642 Á ights between the Wes Coast and Hawaii. Howe Transportation you must be Á exible: Air sells last-minute seats a doesn’t guarantee a spe GETTING THERE (HNL; http://hawaii.gov/hnl) ciÀ c Á ight. Flights curren Glossary ...... 644 on OƵahu. depart from San Francis & AWAY Following are the main and Los Angeles to Hono Roughly 99% of visitors to Neighbor Island airports: and Maui year-round, an Hawaii arrive by air, and the Big Island East Hawaii Hilo seasonally to HawaiƵi th majority of Á ights – both International Airport (ITO; Island. international and domestic – Index ...... 649 http://hawaii.gov/ito) West arrive at Honolulu Inter- Vacation Package Hawaii Kona International national Airport on OƵahu. Airport at Keahole (KOA; Vacation packages of- Nonstop and direct Á ights http://hawaii.gov/koa) fered by major airlines a to the Neighbor Islands are travel booking websites increasingly available (and Maui Kahului airport (OGG; sometimes are the chea Map Legend ...... 662 costly). Flights and tours can http://hawaii.gov/ogg) est option. Basic packag be booked online at www LanaƵi LanaƵi airport (LNY; cover airfare and accom .lonelyplanet.com/bookings. http://hawaii.gov/lny) dations, while deluxe on MolokaƵi MolokaƵi airport include car rental, activi (MKK; http://hawaii gov/mkk) dildhi

STAY IN TOUCH lonelyplanet.com/contactTHIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY twitter.com/ AUSTRALIA LockedSara Bag Benson, 1, Footscray, Victoria 3011 %03 8379 8000, fax 03 8379 8111 lonelyplanet

PaperAmy in this book C Balfour,is certified Glenda USA Bendure, 150 Linden St, EOakland, Clark CA Carroll,94607 Ned Friary, Connerfacebook.com/ Gorry, against the Forest Stewardship %510 250 6400, toll free 800 275 8555, fax 510 893 8572 lonelyplanet Council™ standards. FSC™ promotes Ryan Ver Berkmoes, Luci Yamamoto environmentally responsible, socially lonelyplanet.com/ beneficial and economically viable UK 186 City Rd, London, EC1V 2NT management of the world’s forests. %020 7106 2100, fax 020 7106 2101 newsletter Look out for these icons: Our author’s A green or No payment o recommendation S sustainable option F required

OʻAHU ...... 54 Kahe Point ...... 160 NORTH KOHALA ...... 229 HONOLULU ...... 61 Waiʻanae ...... 161 Akoni Pule Highway Makaha ...... 162 (Hwy 270) ...... 229 PEARL HARBOR ...... 96 Makua Valley ...... 162 Hawi ...... 230 WAIKIKI ...... 99 Kaʻena Point State Kapaʻau ...... 232 Park ...... 163 SOUTHEAST COAST . . . . . 121 Pololu Valley ...... 234 Diamond Head & WAIMEA (KAMUELA) . . . . .235 HAWAIʻI THE BIG Kahala ...... 121 MAUNA KEA & Hawaiʻi Kai ...... 123 ISLAND ...... 165 SADDLE ROAD ...... 240 Hanauma Bay Nature KAILUA-KONA ...... 172 HAMAKUA COAST ...... 248 Preserve ...... 124 AROUND KAILUA- Honokaʻa & Around . . . . . 248 Koko Head Regional KONA ...... 187 Park ...... 128 Waipiʻo Valley ...... 252 Makapuʻu Point...... 129 Keauhou Resort Area . . . . . 187 Hakalau & Around ...... 257 Onomea Bay & WINDWARD COAST ...... 129 Holualoa ...... 192 Honokohau Harbor & Around ...... 259 Waimanalo ...... 130 Around ...... 194 HILO ...... 260 Kailua ...... 133 Kaneʻohe ...... 139 SOUTH KONA COAST . . . . 196 PUNA ...... 274 Waiahole ...... 140 Kealakekua ...... 197 Pahoa ...... 275 Kualoa ...... 141 Captain Cook ...... 201 Red Road (Hwy 137) . . . . .278 Kealakekua Bay State Kaʻaʻawa ...... 142 HAWAIʻI VOLCANOES Historical Park ...... 203 Kahana Valley ...... 142 NATIONAL PARK ...... 282 Honaunau ...... 206 Punaluʻu ...... 143 Puʻuhonua o Honaunau KAʻU ...... 297 Laʻie ...... 144 National Historical Malaekahana State Park ...... 207 MAUI ...... 304 Recreation Area ...... 145 Miloliʻi ...... 209 Kahuku ...... 146 LAHAINA ...... 310 NORTH KONA COAST . . . . 210 NORTH SHORE ...... 146 WEST MAUI ...... 322 Kaloko-Honokohau Kawela (Turtle) Bay ...... 147 National Historical Kaʻanapali ...... 326 Waimea ...... 148 Park ...... 210 Honokowai ...... 331 Haleʻiwa ...... 152 Keahole Point ...... 210 Kahana ...... 331 Waialua...... 155 Kekaha Kai State Napili ...... 332 Mokuleʻia to Kaʻena Park ...... 211 Kapalua & Around ...... 333 Point ...... 156 Kaʻupulehu ...... 213 Kahekili Highway ...... 338 CENTRAL OʻAHU ...... 157 Kiholo Bay ...... 214 ʻIAO VALLEY & Wahiawa ...... 158 SOUTH KOHALA ...... 215 CENTRAL MAUI ...... 340 Kolekole Pass ...... 158 Waikoloa Resort Area . . . .215 Kahului ...... 340 WAIʻANAE COAST Mauna Lani Resort Area . . 222 Wailuku ...... 346 (LEEWARD OʻAHU) ...... 159 Mauna Kea Resort Area . 225 ʻIao Valley State Park . . . 350 Ko Olina Resort...... 160 Kawaihae & Around . . . . . 226 Puʻunene ...... 350 See the Index for a full list of destinations covered in this book.

On the Road

Kealia Pond National Hulopoʻe & Manele Anahola ...... 497 Wildlife Refuge ...... 351 Bays ...... 422 Koʻolau Road ...... 498 Maʻalaea ...... 351 Keomuku Road ...... 424 HANALEI BAY & Molokini Crater ...... 353 Road to Garden THE NORTH SHORE . . . . .499 of the Gods ...... 425 KIHEI & SOUTH MAUI . . . . 353 Kilauea ...... 499 Kaumalapaʻu Highway . . . . 426 Kihei ...... 353 Kalihiwai ...... 506 Wailea ...... 364 ʻAnini ...... 506 Makena...... 368 MOLOKAʻI ...... 428 Princeville ...... 507 NORTH SHORE & KAUNAKAKAI ...... 435 Hanalei Valley ...... 513 UPCOUNTRY ...... 371 EAST MOLOKAʻI ...... 442 Hanalei ...... 513 Paʻia ...... 371 ʻUalapuʻe ...... 443 Haʻena ...... 522 Makawao ...... 377 Pukoʻo ...... 444 Haʻena State Park ...... 524 Haʻiku ...... 380 Waialua...... 445 Na Pali Coast State Park ...... 524 Pukalani & Around ...... 381 Halawa Valley ...... 446 Kula ...... 381 Pali Coast...... 447 THE SOUTH SHORE ...... 526 Polipoli Spring State CENTRAL MOLOKAʻI . . . . .448 Koloa ...... 526 Recreation Area ...... 383 Poʻipu ...... 530 Kamakou Area ...... 448 Keokea ...... 384 Kalaheo ...... 540 Kualapuʻu ...... 449 ʻUlupalakua Ranch ...... 385 Kalaʻe ...... 450 WAIMEA CANYON & THE ROAD TO HANA . . . . .385 Palaʻau State Park ...... 450 THE WESTSIDE ...... 541 Huelo ...... 386 Hoʻolehua ...... 451 Port Allen ...... 542 Koʻolau Forest Reserve . . 386 Moʻomomi Beach ...... 452 Hanapepe ...... 543 Keʻanae ...... 388 Waimea ...... 546 KALAUPAPA NATIONAL Wailua ...... 389 HISTORICAL PARK ...... 453 Kekaha ...... 551 ʻUlaʻino Road ...... 390 Waimea Canyon Waiʻanapanapa State WEST END ...... 456 State Park ...... 552 Park ...... 391 Maunaloa ...... 457 Kokeʻe State Park ...... 554 HANA & EAST MAUI ...... 392 Kaluakoi Resort Area . . . . 457 West End Beaches ...... 458 Hana ...... 392 PAPAHANAUMOKUAKEA Kipahulu ...... 397 MARINE NATIONAL Piʻilani Highway ...... 398 NIʻIHAU ...... 460 MONUMENT ...... 560 HALEAKALĀ NATIONAL Nihoa & PARK...... 400 KAUAʻI ...... 462 Mokumanamana ...... 560 LIHUʻE ...... 468 French Frigate Shoals ...... 560 KAHOʻOLAWE . . . . .410 KAPAʻA & THE Laysan Island ...... 561 EASTSIDE ...... 479 Midway Islands ...... 561 LANAʻI ...... 412 Wailua ...... 479 Lanaʻi City ...... 416 Waipouli ...... 489 Munro Trail...... 422 Kapaʻa ...... 491 155° 160° › Hawaii 30°N 30°N W Pearl and W °

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# • # # Ù • É , where Captain Cook met his doom. BAY Puna KAUNAOA . Hapuna Beach Mo‘okini Heiau Kahalu and wave good-bye to the island from windswept good-bye to the island from and wave , i the Island Big ʻ rst four days or so, combining trips to the beach – speci rst four days fi Museum c Tsunami KEALAKEKUA Kahalu‘u Beach fi Kilauea Iki Trail Volcano ies and Kona co ies and Kona Beach the The Big Island can The Big Island . But leave at least two days for days two at least . But leave ; circle around

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Pu Kealakekua Bay Kealakekua Is that a week already? Well, keep going. Take a leisurely drive along the going. keep Take that a week already? Well, Is If you have extra time, detour If you have either up to Then spend two days in the countryside in the days Then of spend two We understand that some have a plane to catch, but with another day or two for or two a plane to catch, but with another day understand that some have We Beach worldly venture down into Coast the antique and artisan of quaint shops beach. Wander in days town. Spend two market and excellent particularly museums, the Great; and graze good eats after shopping in quaint a posh collection of country B&Bs. and save your appetite for and save and geographical point in the USA. see some hot lava. While adventuring, in see some hot lava. stay nearby Sands Beach Valley you can admire sea turtles at black-sand

Hawai Two Weeks Two at in

28 PLAN YOUR TRIP ITINERARIES PLAN YOUR TRIP ITINERARIES 29 Rd and Rd a Access a Access s easy-access s easy-access (p247) will take will take (p247) Kahalu‘u Beach Beach Kahalu‘u (p187), on the Big Island, on the Big Island, (p187), Saddle Rd Saddle several exceptional hikes. hikes. exceptional several (above) (above) Park Kahalu‘u Bay’ fronts surf spot. favorite and is a snorkeling (left) the Mauna Ke to you

» »

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Maui 10 Days side, ending your trip among the cowboy ranches of Maui’s side, ending your trip among the cowboy ranches of Maui’s enjoying Ho further for a bamboo rain forest hike and to take a dip in the cascading waterfall a dip in the further and to take pools of for a bamboo rain forest hike the Haleakal Luau really in love), but then let’s (three if you’re days excellent beaches. Spend two Maui’s West go! Drive north with spinner dolphins at around the peninsula, stopping to snorkel terhouse Beach State Park cruise to book a snorkel around sort in gape in wonder at the windward coastal scenerymuddy paths to waterfall and to follow at swimming holes. Kick back on a black-sand beach book a lavish suite at a resort in book a lavish a whale-watching boat tour. Park rise from the summit. Then drive the cli

30 PLAN YOUR TRIP ITINERARIES PLAN YOUR TRIP ITINERARIES 31

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with a visit to beautiful É Awa Port Allen Port e State Park ipu ʻ ʻ ng at fi Po North Shore North Kuilau Ridge and Moalepe Trails and Moalepe Ridge Kuilau e Beach ʻ Koke s on the ff inside a national wildlife refuge. Get Mt Wai glimpse of misty a Na Pali Coast State Park Pali Na Ke . Head to . Head . The Eastside’s most charming small town, . The Eastside’s i is Hollywood’s ready-made set whenever it needs a ‘tropical paradise.’ These ready-made set whenever it needs a ‘tropical paradise.’ i is Hollywood’s ʻ and i ʻ If you’ve chosen Kaua ng, around outrigger canoeing or kayaking fi soul-inspiring canyons, cli soul-inspiring canyons, backdrops, however. pretty Kaua ia River ʻ Ni‘ihau Now, lace up your hiking boots and spend the next couple days in next lace up your hiking boots and spend the couple days Now, OK, ready? Well rested, head east: hit Well Giddy-up to the Lehua easy in nice and ff State Park South Shore hiking the rolling after sur road in Shore’s more scenic than driving to the end of the North at snorkeling 10 Days Kaua take this chance to tour the waters around o take edge 2000ft cli the old sugar-plantation town of which descends into the ‘Grand Canyon of the Paci Canyon which descends into the ‘Grand festive art-gallery night, join the walk. Friday it’s Hule o keling and windsur keling Beach Park cottage restaurants and cafes. Bed down at a B&B artisan locavarian shops and organic, here or further north in peaceful the coast; otherwise, backpack the story you’llNow home. to impress your buddies back an epic Hawaii have ’s • # for and and Hana ff i City West ʻ Munro Munro

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Kaunakakai É You’ve got time, you’ve got money and you want culture, outdoor adventure and You’ve Moloka Maui, peaceful relaxation in equal measure. Combine time, you won’t even need to drive. This trip is for lovers, culture vultures and anyone and gourmet more for plush lodgings eats. But you’ve alsohappy to spend a little

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it worthwhile.s – make See the individual island chapters later in this guide for details See the individual island chapters later in this guide on island hopping by air Finally, spend four or Finally, Next, hop over to Next, First, spend ff Beaches Moloka‘i West EndWest and/or boat. and/or End town trek to the two: Day perhaps a waterfall or two. to the remote beaches of the island’s three: head out Day farm. damia nuts at Purdy’s Trail Shipwreck Beach summit moonscapes and another to lazily drive down the summit moonscapes and another to lazily drive waterfall and to buy fresh coconuts. hikes so hectic so far, been a little or four nights. Things three staying have Bay, and at Manele at snorkel a round of golf, play old-school aloha at the try ziplining. As for beach time, some of Hawaii’s most seductive strands await nearby, like nearby, most seductive strands await try ziplining. As beach time, some of Hawaii’s for Kapalua Beach

Island Hopping: Maui, Lana Maui, Island Hopping: Two Weeks Two Lahaina’s whaling history and browse Ka Lahaina’s or a condo for the duration of your stay at or a condo for the duration of your stay got to be willing to rough it once in a while, when the rewardsgot to be willing to rough it once in a while, when – hidden waterfalls, sea epic cli

32 PLAN YOUR TRIP ITINERARIES PLAN YOUR TRIP ITINERARIES 33 , , o ʻ u ʻ Hilo

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Honolulu Academy of Arts Academy Honolulu t

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If you want to live in the scenery (not just admire it), consider combining O tures of a lifetime plus plenty of traditional and contemporary Hawaiian culture, nottures of a lifetime of traditional and contemporary plus plenty Hawaiian treats for your tummy. to mention tasty Big Island and Kaua Big Island ; if you’ve got the time, consider backpacking to to the or to drive partway up the mountain for stargazing after up the mountain for stargazing dark. Last, or to drive partway explore ena Point Coast ʻ Canyon Na Pali Hanalei Waimea Mosey over to Mosey Start on the capital island of With another week or more, head to State Park State Ha‘ena Beach Iolani Palace Iolani Valley Kea est cottage in in est cottage akekua Bay akekua at go caving to the Sea a chance to watch live lava lucky, you’re For ocean adventures, hike to secluded ocean adventures, hike For Ka Coast Lyon Arboretum Lyon hula with sunset music and cocktails by the ocean. Drive up the Hawaiian on Waikiki’s beaches, snorkel at beaches, snorkel on Waikiki’s Among the major cultural sights around ʻ amazing hiking at North Shore North One Month O Island Hopping: in Ned Friary & Glenda Bendure Maui, Kahoʻolawe Ned and Glenda fi rst laid eyes on Hawaii in the 1980s after a teaching stint in Japan, and were so taken by the islands’ raw natural beauty that their intended two-week stopover turned into a four-month stay. Since then, they’ve returned to Hawaii dozens of times, exploring each island from top to bot- tom. They wrote the fi rst fi ve editions of Lonely Planet’s Hawaii and have been coauthors of each edition since. They have a fondness for islands and have written Lonely Planet guides to destinations as far fl ung as Micronesia, Bermuda and the Eastern Caribbean. They are coauthors of Lonely Planet’s Maui, USA and New England guidebooks. They live on Cape Cod when they’re not on the road.

Conner Gorry Hawaiʻi the Big Island An island girl at heart, Conner knows some of the best: Manhattan, Molokaʻi, Cuba, Kauaʻi. But oh, Hawaiʻi. Since the moment she smelled Hilo and beheld the Puʻu ʻOʻo Vent, writing the fi rst Lonely Planet guide to the Big Island, she’s felt just like Twain, longing for ‘the privilege of living for- ever away up on one of those mountains in the Sandwich Islands overlooking the sea…’ She happily consumed four cans of Spam during the research of this book and ticked three experiences (phenomenal, the lot) off her bucket list: snorkeling with manta rays at night, beholding the lava sea entry from a boat and hiking the Muliwai Trail.

Ryan Ver Berkmoes Lana ʻi, Molokaʻi Ryan Ver Berkmoes fi rst visited Molokaʻi in 1987 and remembers being intoxicated by the lush, rural scenery on the drive east (or maybe it was the fumes from the heaps of mangos fermenting along the side of the road). He’s been back often, usually renting a beachside house where, between novels, he looks without envy at the busy lights of Maui across the channel. For this edition of Hawaii Ryan brings his journalistic skills to Lanaʻi and Molokaʻi, two places that had previously only tested his holiday skills. He’s looking to beat his record of over one hour on of these island’s beaches without seeing another person.

Luci Yamamoto Hawaiʻi the Big Island Luci Yamamoto is a fourth-generation native of Hawaiʻi. Growing up in Hilo, she viewed the cross-island drive from Hilo to Kailua-Kona as a rare, all-day adventure. Then she left for college in Los Angeles and law school in Berkeley – and even the ʻBig’ Island seemed small indeed. Since becoming a Lonely Planet author and covering Hawaiʻi and Kauaʻi, she’s opened her eyes to the true greatness of her home island. Currently living in Vancouver, she feels privileged when kamaʻaina still consider her a ʻlocal girl.’

Contributing Author Michael Shapiro Michael Shapiro fl ed the cold reaches of New York in 1998 and has lived happily in the Hawaiian Islands ever since. As the editor of Hana Hou! the magazine of Hawaiian Airlines, he’s had the good fortune to travel extensively throughout Hawaii and write about its nature and culture. Michael wrote the Hawaii Today, History and Hawaii’s People chapters. OUR STORY A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their fi rst travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offi ces in Melbourne, London and Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS Sara Benson Coordinating Author, Oʻahu, Papahanaumokuakea Marine National Monument, Hawaiian Arts & Crafts, Lei, Land & Sea, Green Hawaii After graduating from college in Chicago, Sara jumped on a plane to California with just one suitcase and $100 in her pocket. She then hopped across the Pacifi c to Japan, eventually splitting the diff erence with stints living on Maui, the Big Island of Hawaiʻi and Oʻahu, as well as trekking all over Kauaʻi, Molokaʻi and Lanaʻi. Sara is an avid hiker, backpacker and outdoor enthusiast who has worked as a seasonal ranger for the National Park Service and as a volunteer at Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park. Already the author of over 40 travel and nonfi ction books, Sara also contributed to Lonely Planet’s Honolulu, Waikiki & Oʻahu and Hiking in Hawaii guides. Follow more of her adventures online at www.toptrailsmaui.blogspot. com, www.indietraveler.net and @indie_traveler on Twitter. Read more about Sara at: lonelyplanet.com/members/sara_benson Amy C Balfour Maui, Hawaii’s Cuisine Amy fi rst visited Hawaii as a toddler. According to family lore she was so happy to arrive, she ‘sprinkled’ all over the customs agent. For this book she zipped down the West Maui mountains, clutched the wheel on the Kahekili Highway, sunset-cruised off Kaʻanapali, snorkeled beside a green turtle, hiked a jungly mountain trail and enjoyed her most decadent Thanksgiving din- ner ever – a no-worries feast at the Kaʻanapali Beach Hotel. Amy has authored or coauthored nine books for Lonely Planet, including Los Angeles Encounter, California, The Carib- bean Islands and Arizona. A fi eld correspondent for Backpacker, she has also written for Every Day with Rachael Ray, Lonely Planet Magazine, the Los Angeles Times, Redbook, Southern Living and Women’s Health. Read more about Amy at: lonelyplanet.com/members/amycbalfour

E Clark Carroll Kauaʻi, Niʻihau Led by nurtured whimsicality and living one day at a time, Clark has found himself in a life beyond anything the most fecund imagination could have created, living on the North Shore of Kaua‘i. Originating in New York, his lesson-fi lled path has led west, back east, down south to study and commence his writing career, down under to study more and explore, to the far east to chase waves, and for now he’s content to be somewhere in the middle…of the Pacifi c Ocean. Getting to be servant to the reader and refl ect all that he has come to understand and love about Kaua‘i was, in a word, dreamy.

OVER MORE PAGE WRITERS Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN 36 005 607 983 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason- 10th edition – Sep 2011 able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about ISBN 978 1 74179 806 7 the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi- © Lonely Planet 2011 Photographs © as indicated 2011 mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 Printed in China All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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