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k , . -l 1_i ; CLOTHING XI.-XIII. CLOTHING IN AFGHASISTAN 811 men dressed in Western style in the street. Some even S./1978. R. M. Savory, "Social Development in Iran adopted the headband ('eqiil) in imitation of leftist during the Pahlavi Era," in G. Lenczowski. ed .. Iran Arabs. but it was unpopular, and they soon abandoned under the Pahlavis, Stanford, Calif., 1978, pp. 85- it. 127. F. Stark, The Valley of the Assassins. London. For women the situation was far more difficult. In 1934, tr. 'A.-M. Saki as Safar-niima-ve Alamiit. the mid-l 970s many rural families had migrated to the Lorestiin wa 1/iim, Tehran, 1364 S./1985_-D. Wilber. major cities, panicularly Tehran, in search of employ­ Riza Shah Pahla\'i. The Resurrection and Recon­ ment. Most were unskilled, uneducated, and tradi­ structionof /ran, Hicksville, N. Y., 1975. E. Yagma'i. tional in their outlook and convictions. After the Kiir-niima-ye Re iii Siih-e kabir, Tehran, 2535= 1355 Revolution, encouraged by religious leaders who had S./1976,pp.170, 178,216,499. E.Zozef,"Rokn-al­ become government officials, women from this group Din Mo~tar ... ," Rahiivard 7/23, 1368 S./1989, pp. harassed women who were not wearing the in 274-75. public. Many educated women, panicularly university ('ALi-AKBARSA'iDi SiRJANi) students, had adopted traditional dress associated with Islam as a symbol of opposition to the Pahlavi regime, xii. QAJARAND PAHLAVIMILITARY CLOTHING. See and the mass demonstrations during the Revolution MILITARY had included large numbers of such women wearing black ciidors (Plate CXXVII). But they had not ex­ xiii. CLOTHINGINAFGHANISTAN pected to be forced to wear them after the Revolution; they staged a few brief protests, which, however, were The medley of tribal and ethnic populations in the met with insults and physical threats. As the state diverse landscape of live mainly in rural gradually consolidated its power, all women were towns and villages and nomadic camps. Hardly 5 forced to adopt the "Islamic" mode of dress in public. percent lead urban lives. Traditional clothing reflects It consists of a loose gown covering the entire body in these geographic and residential variations and also such a way that all curves, including the breasts, waist, serves to express individual and group identity, social and calves, are hidden. Only the hands, from fingenips and economic status, stages of the life-cycle, and to wrists, and the face are not covered by this gannent. changing sociopolitical trends, which ultimately lead The head and neck are to be entirely covered either by to new styles, as well as to exchanges of clothing types a black ciidorora thick scarf (meqna'a). If the distance (L. Dupree, pp. 238-47). Although tenninology for all between the ground and the hem of the d~ss is greater items of Afghan clothing varies widely, the central than ten inches the calves of the legs, already swathed role of dress in Afghan culture is clear from the fact in thick black stockings, must be funher hidden under that new garments are essential for family, religious, full trousers. These requirements have been met with and seasonal celebrations. the same reluctance and resistance that greeted Reza . The most diagnostic item of clothing is Shah's enforced ban on the same kind of clothing. headgear, and even the ubiquitous (Pers. langotii, Many men still wear jackets and trousers, though dastiir, Pashto pa(kay, ), which can vary in length most omit neckties. from 3 to 6 m, takes on distinguishing characteristics, Bibliography: F. Adamiyat, Andisa-ye tarraqi wa depending on the arrangement of folds (L. Dupree, pp. ~okumat-e qiinun. 'A,sr-e Sepahsiiliir, Tehran, 1351 71, 162). White cotton is the most common turban S./1973. 'A. Agari, ed., Tiirifs-e mo,sawwar-e Reiii cloth. though cenain Pashtun groups prefer black and Siih-e kabir, Tehran, I 345 S./1976 ( useful for il­ prestigious silk tend to be woven in muted lustrations). M.-ij. Adib Heravi, If adiqat al­ grays, browns, and pinks (Plates CXXVIII, CXXIX). razawiya, Mashad, 1327 S./1948. Mol)ammad-1:fasan Whatever the material, the longer the turban, the more Khan E'temad-al-Saltana, Cehel siil tiirifs-e lriin dar fashionable the man. A young boy signals the coming dawra-ye piidsiihi-e Nii,ser-al-Din Siih I. al-Ma'ii[er of manhood by ceremoniously donning a turban. The wa' l-ii[iir, ed. i. Afsar, Tehran, 1363 S./1984. M. easily recognizable shapes and decorative designs of Farro~ (Mo'ta~em-al-Saltana), {Sii(eriit-e siiisi-e the (Pers. koliih, Pashto fsolay) worn under tur­ Farrofs, ed. P. Lavasani, Tehran, 1347 S./1968, pp. bans are also distinctive indicators. Cylindrical silk­ 388, 391. 395. N. Sayfpiir Fatemi, "Reza Sah wa embroidered caps distinguish the Uzbek and Tajik (see kiideta-ye 1299," Rahiivard 7/23, 1368 S./1989, pp. xv, below), fitted skullcaps of quilted chintz and felt 160-80. M. Mo~ber-al-Saltana Hedayat, {Sii(eriit o (barrak) the Hazara (see xiv, below), and the famous fsa(ariit, 2nd ed., Tehran, 1344 S./1965, p. 407. M. cylindrical caps embroidered with gold and silver Ka?,emi, Ruzgiir o andisahii, Tehran, 1350 S./1971. thread (goliibatuni) the Pashtun ofQandahar; foldable N. Keddie, Roots of Revolution. An Interpretive caps encrusted with shiny colored-glass beads History of Modern Iran, New Haven, Conn., 1981. (maridiirii) are also made in Qandahar (N. H. Dupree, 'A. Mas'iidi, Er,elii'iit dar yak rob'-e qarn, Tehran, 1977, p. 286 ). The Baluch set round mirror fragments 1950 S./1971. 'I. $adiq, Yiidgiir-e 'omr II, Tehran, (sisa) into their designs (see xviii, xix, below). Coni­ I 345 S./1966. $. Safa, Giih-niima-ye panjiih siil cal caps of wheat straw (druzaw fsolay) are unique siihansiihi-e Pahlavi l, n.p., n.d. J. Sahri, Gusa-i az among the Sinwari eastern Pashtun, as are the small, tiirifs-e ejtemii'i-e Tehriin-e qadim I, Tehran, 1357 round felt caps found in the high mountains of the 812 CLOTHING xm.CLOTHING IN AFGHANISTAN nonheast. Other male headgear includes busby-like ties, therefore, wear variations of large or small rectan­ shapes (tilpak) made from sheepskin, worn by the gular , commonly called cadar (see C.i.DOR), Turkmen (L. Dupree. p. 182; see xxvi, below), round with or without small similar to the men's kolah. fur-trimmed hats and quilted hats with earflaps worn The cadar is made of soft cotton, often but by no means by the Kirghiz (Dor and Naumann). and flat-topped always in a solid color. Among cenain Pashtun woollen caps with rolled rims worn in Niirestiin ( tribeswomen the cadar is an ankle-length mantle re­ generally; sukokuf in KamvirI; Michaud, 1980, ill. sembling a cape. bordered with heavy gold embroidery 91 ). The modified cylindrical made from Persian (Michaud, 1980, ill. 67). In contrast to the cadar, the lamb (qarakoli), which had distinguished all educated cadari is composed of a close-fitting from which urban men since the beginning of the 20th century finely pleated colored silk or rayon falls, completely (Charpentier, 1977), is currently out of fashion. enveloping the figure, with only an openwork em­ Head coverings for all women are prescribed in broidered or crocheted grid over the eyes (Nicod, ills. Islam. Most women in traditional Afghan communi- 57, 59). Another style, with a separate see-through face veil, is called boqra (< Ar. borqo'; Heral) and PLATECXXVIIl paranji (Kondiiz). All cadaris are primarily urban gannents (N. H. Dupree, 1978). The most specta<;ular headgear is worn by Turkmen women. Although the shapes of these tall (up to 45 cm) headdresses (Turkic bojmaq, Pers. qa!aba) differ from group to group, as do the silk wrappings, silver studs, and festooned ornaments that decorate them, all mark major stages in the lives of their owners. The exuberant creations worn by brides are replaced by more modest versions once they become mothers, and after menopause the silver ornaments are set aside entirely (Stucki, 1978). Uzbek bridal headdresses, though similar, are not as elaborate (P. Centlivres). Individual creativity is also expressed in the decoration of baby bonnets with a profusion of pompoms, feathers, baubles. and beads. Garments. The basic costume for men, women, and children is made from lightweight cotton and consists of loose-fitting. long-sleeved shins worn outside wide trousers (Pers. tanban. ezar, Pashto partiig) gathered on a drawstring (ezarband). The length of the men's shin (peran, korta), which is typically collarless and buttoned atone shoulder(N. H. Dupree, 1977, p. 388). varies from region to region, from knee to mid-calf or even lower. The finely embroidered Qandahiiri shin fronts (gara. gan4a) are renowned. Waistcoats (waskal) are universally popular and may be made of black and red velvet decorated with gold braid or embroidery. as found in Qandahar (called sadri) and among some Pash tun nomads, or fashioned from local materials, like barrak (see BARAK) in the Hazarajat. Many men, however, prefer Western vests purchased. along with Western coats and jackets, from second-hand clothing bazars. Indigenous types of outer garment are also worn. They include dressed-sheepskin coats worn with the fleece inside, with sleeves (postin) or without (postinca), and often embroidered, a spe­ cialty in the Pashtun area around Gazni. Throughout the nonh full-length, quilted or single-weight collar­ less robes. striped in multiple colors and with long sleeves covering the hands (jilak and capan respec­ tively), worn with a cloth sash (kamarband), are made of silk and handwoven cotton (karbas; N. H. Dupree. 1977, p. 341). A typical Uzbek type of padded coat. of brown or dark-red cotton. slips over the head and Men of the Tara Kel tribe of eastern Pash tun. Photograph fastens at one side of the neck (gopica). Elaborately counesy of Josephine Powell. embroidered shon-sleeved felt coats (kusay) are worn CLOTHING XIII. CLOTHING IN AFGHANISTAN 813 .~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

PLATECXXIX

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Scene at the market of AqKopruk, near Maz:ir-e Sarif in western Afghanistan. Photograph courtesy of Josephine Powell. 814 CLOTHING XIII. CLOTHING IN AFGHANISTAN by the Pashtun in Paktia. Woollen shawls ({iidar. the sleeves at the wrists and the trousers at the ankles; Pashtu patii) are also popular with men in winier. and fabrics-prints. textures, and decoration-are Nurestani dress is the most distinctive in Afghani­ matters of great consequence to all women (Plates stan. Men wear white woolen trousers, reaching just CXXX, CXXXI). In contrast to men's clothing, which below the knee ( vi/ in Kamviri, spoken in Kamdes), is generally tailored in biiuirs, most women's clothing over long black leggings like puttees (piitaw), which, is hand- or machine-stitched at home. Especially among aside from the knitted wool stockings decorated with the eastern Pashtun the high-waisted bodices of the traditional designs of the Hazara, are the only leg dresses, the flaring elbow-length cuffs. and deep borders coverings made in Afghanistan. Prized silver-studded on the hems of skirts containing as much as 12 m of belts (mii/aa ni.freJ for daggers (kiitra) are also unique flowered cotton or velvet are covered with exquisite to Nurestan (L. Dupree. p. 143). Nurestani women sometimes wear leggings under long, full skirts or PLATECXXXI robes (biiili) gathered at the waist with woven belts (ni.1'te) and embellished across the back of the shoul­ ders and down the sleeves with a combination of red and black embroidered appliques found nowhere else in Afghanistan (L. Dupree. p. 234). Elsewhere, although women's dress styles conform to an overal I pattern similar to that of men. diffeirences in the length of the dress; the cut, drape, and fullness (up to 20 m) of the voluminous trousers; the width of

PLATECXXX

Wife of village headman, central Afghanistan, south of Taywara in Gor province. Photograph courtesy of Nomad woman of the Tara Ke! tribe of eastern Pashtun. Josephine Powell. Photograph courtesy of Josephine Powell. CLOTHING XIII.-XIV. CLOTHING OF THE HAZA.RA TRIBES 815

embroidery. Red, green, and royal-purple velvet are CIBA-Rundschau 54, Basel, I 942, pp.1986-2001. R. favored by the wealthier nomads, the miildiir. and S. Michaud, Caravans to Tartary, London, 1978. In the cities, especially among the educated middle Idem, Afghanistan, London, 1980. M.-L. Nabholz and upper classes, Western styles have predominated and P. Bucherer-Dietschi, eds., Textilhandwerk in since they were introduced early in the 20th century as Afghanistan, Liestal, Switz., 1983. M. R. Nicod, pan of government effons to modernize (N. H. Dupree, Afghanistan, Innsbruck, n.d. F. Rahimi, Women in 1988). Fashions have closely followed European Afghanistan, Liestal, Switz., 1986. K. E. Seraj and models through the years, and, for women, Western N. H. Dupree, The KES Collection of Vintage Photo­ dress came to symbolize emancipation (Rahimi, 1977). graphs, New York, 1979. A Stucki, "Horses and After the leftist revolution of 1357 S./1978 and during Women," Afghanistan Journal 5/4, 1978, pp. 140- the subsequent years of Soviet occupation Western 49. dress continued in vogue in Kabul. On the other hand, (NANCYHATCH DUPREE) Afghan refugees in , both men and women, wear traditional garments as symbols of their adherence xiv. CLOTHINGOF THE HAZARA TRIBES to Afghan culture and Islam. Footgear. Plastic shoes of every hue and style are Hazara clothing has not been studied systematically; popular throughout Afghanistan, but a variety of stout only sporadic evidence can be found in literature, leather sandal (cap/i, Pashto caplay), often soled with photographs, and major museum collections. Much of rubber cut from old tires, is also worn in many areas. the information given here is based on the author's Straw sandals (mazari caplay) are found in Paktia. ethnographic work among the Hazara in 1953-55 and Also distinctive are the ankle-high moccasins of in the Danish National Museum collection in 1948 and Nfirestan ( viic6) and the knee-high leather boots, high­ 1953-54. heeled (camiis; Nicod, ill. 29)orsoft-soled (miisi), worn The 19th century. Mountstuan Elphinstone, the fa­ by northern Turkic speakers. The stout rubber over­ ther of Afghan ethnography, is apparently the earliest shoes (kalaws)worn tocoverthemiisioutside the home source on Hazara clothing. He published one illustra­ are also commonly worn alone (Plate CXXVIII). tion (Elphinstone, pl. XII, facing p. 483; Plate CXXXII) Jewelry. Jewelry, mostly of silver, is an imponant with the brief comment "the dress of the men ... is item in every woman's wardrobe, and generous sprin­ distinguished by the rolls of cloth which they twist klings of silver beads, disks, coins, fastenings, and round their legs like the Uzbeks. The women wear amulets (ta'wig) are sewn onto clothing. Among some long frocks of woollen stuff, and boots of soft deer­ nomads, the eastern Pashtun in particular, these silver skin, which reach to their knees" (p. 483). In the 1830s ornaments are typically combined with mirror work, Alexander Burnes reponed that Hazara women _of gold and silver filament and braid, and elaborate rank "go unveiled, and wear two or three loongees beading, in addition to the fine embroidery described [lungies) on the head, like a tiara" (p. 175). He added above. that the Hazaras manufactured a fabric called "burruk" Bibliography: M. and P. Centlivres, "Calottes, (see BARAK) from the wool of sheep. et , Bulletin annuel du Musee et lnstitut The American general Josiah Harlan, who was also d'Ethnographie de la Ville de Geneve 11, 1968, pp. in Afghanistan in the 1830s, gave more detail. Ac­ 11-46. P. Centlivres, "Les Uzbeks du Qattaghan," cording to him, the manufacture of "berrick" was Afghanistan Journal 2/1, 1975, pp. 28-36. C.-J. common throughout the Paropamisus mountains and Charpentier, "The Making of Karakul-Caps," Af­ among the pastoral tribes of , but the best ghanistan Journal 4/2, 1977, pp. 76-78. R. Dor and was made in Day Zangi in the southern pan ofHazarajat C. Naumann.Die Kirghisendesafghanischen Pamir, (p. 116). Of the Hazara in panicular he reponed (pp. Graz, 1978. L. Dupree, Afghanistan, Princeton, N.J ., 128-30) that "the clothing of the poor or laboring class 1980, pp. 238-47. N. H. Dupree, An Historical Guide consists of a long frock made of the berrick i burrie and to Afghanistan, Kabul, 1977. Idem, "Behind the Veil pantaloons of the same material fitting tight near the in Afghanistan," Asia 1/2, 1978, pp. 10-15. Idem, ankles. They wrap their legs with strips of the same "Victoriana Comes to the Haremsarai in Afghani­ material, about two and a half inches wide ... com­ stan," in P. Bucherer-Dietschi, ed., Bauen und mencing at the ankle .... This arrangement is commonly Wohnen am Hindukush, Liestal, Switz., 1988, pp. adopted by couriers and other foot men who have 111-49. J. Graham and H. Sandys, The Decorative occasion to perform long journeys.... Their feet are Arts of Central Asia, London, 1988. A. Janata, "Ikat usually protected by sandals of straw. The higher in Afghanistan," Afghanistan Journal 5/4, 1978, pp. orders use shoes of Cabul or Bulkh .... During winter 130-39. C. M. Kieffer and G. Redard, "La fabrica­ ... those of Tatar proclivity use boots, or mashee [masi] tion des chaussures a Bamyan," Acta Orientalia 31, as they are called in 'Toorkie.' But for all pedestrian 1968, pp. 47-53. A. Legat, "Changes and Continu­ purposes at this season they use a most serviceable ities in Women's Status and Clothing in Urban Af­ contrivance for the protection of the feet called sooklies ghanistan," in D. G. Hatt, ed., Ethnicity. The Role of [so!li "lambskin"], which effectually and economi­ Group Identification in Social Change, Calgary, Can., cally secure the wearer immunity from the influence of 1978. A. Leix, "Trachten der Nomaden Turkestans," cold, frost, and snow! This sook/ie is prepared from

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