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Home , Chef, Lunch

4 | JULY 10, 2021 | THE SYDNEY MORNING HERALD TRAVELLER | JULY 10, 2021 | 5

COVER STORY

Clockwise from main: A ‘Kiwi Lamington’ from the winter at Amisfield, Queenstown; Sam Neill, actor and winemaker; crayfish from Ahi, Auckland; Minaret Station, Wanaka; venison at Minaret Station; Urban Winery at Ahuriri, Napier, Hawke’s Bay; and Rata’s Kiwi dip Southland NOUVELLE ZEALAND roll.

am Neill wants to invite you to Actor and winemaker Sam Neill has asked us all letter to New Zealand. A sense of place helicopters drop you at a scenic spot for the Treaty of Waitangi, was signed in 1840].’’ SAM SAYS ‘‘I get to Hawke’s Bay at least across the ditch, and he’s not the only shines through in every detail, from the ultimate South Island alpine . TRAVELLER SAYS This elegant and once a year and always enjoy finding a new Sone. New Zealand’s chefs and urban forest that surrounds the ESSENTIALS minaretstation.com historic waterfront started life as a winery. The one that’s on my list to visit is winemakers are throwing out the black and over for dinner, writes Ute Junker. to the rough-sawn timber ceiling to the grog shop in the 1820s, when the charming Urban Winery in Napier – I haven’t been white welcome mat for Australians, restaurant’s name, inspired by a native tree FAVOURITE SEASONAL KIWI village of Russell was the biggest whaling there yet but I’m interested to take a look.’’ whenever and wherever the temperamental known for its crimson flowers. And it’s MUST-TRY DELICACY BLUFF port in the southern hemisphere. It was TRAVELLER SAYS Housed in the National trans-Tasman bubble allows. there in the ingredients on your plate, from OYSTERS, SOUTH ISLANDS later issued the nation’s first liquor licence. Tobacco Company, one of Napier’s beautiful ‘‘They’ve been without visitors for far too ‘‘We’ve done a pop-up cellar door before, FAVOURITE CLASSIC WINERY crayfish to native plants such as kawakawa. SAM SAYS ‘‘In my view, they are the DON’T MISS The local Waikare Inlet art deco buildings, Tony Bish’s Urban long, they’re all ripping to go,’’ says the and we’re looking at doing it again in RESTAURANT AMISFIELD BISTRO, DON’T MISS Rata’s are updated greatest oysters in the world. They are only oysters are a highlight, as is the slow- Winery is known for doing things actor, star of such films as Jurassic Park, January or February,’’ he says. ‘‘It will be QUEENSTOWN, SOUTH ISLAND regularly but two dishes that seem to have in season for a couple of months of the year, roasted lamb shoulder. The Duke of differently. Bish, formerly the winemaker The Piano and My Brilliant Career. He is also somewhere in Central Otago, a casual SAM SAYS ‘‘This is a lovely place for lunch. won a permanent place are the Cloudy Bay but at that time any good restaurant will Marlborough wine list is outstanding. for Sacred Hill Wines, focuses solely on a winemaker, and one of the most popular in a paddock somewhere. They’re always The is very impressive. Vaughan clams with seaweed butter and chives and have them on the menu.’’ ESSENTIALS waitangi.org.nz; chardonnays, and guests to his sleek cellar and high-profile Kiwis among Australians. great fun.’’ Mabee is a serious .’’ the goats cheese profiteroles with honey. WE SAY These deep water oysters grow theduke.co.nz door can admire his egg-shaped fermenters Plenty of excellent dining experiences TRAVELLER SAYS In summer, take a seat ESSENTIALS ratadining.co.nz naturally in the Foveaux Strait, which made of concrete and French oak, as well as can be found in New Zealand, not only in FAVOURITE NEW RESTAURANT in the courtyard. In winter, cosy up in front separates the South Island and, sitting FAVOURITE MUST-VISIT SOUTH tasting his wines. FIVE MORE KIWI the bigger cities like Auckland and DISCOVERY AHI, AUCKLAND, of the fire. Whatever the season, Mabee’s FAVOURITE LUXURY LODGE below it, Stewart Island, New Zealand’s ISLAND WINERY FELTON ROAD, DON’T MISS The Zen chardonnay has Wellington, but right across the North and NORTH ISLAND menu of , and especially his CUISINE MINARET STATION, third biggest land mass. Bluff oysters are CENTRAL OTAGO rich layers of flavour over a citrus core. TASTE SENSATIONS South, says Neill, who owns Two Paddocks, SAM SAYS ‘‘I was in quarantine in , make for a memorable WANAKA, SOUTH ISLAND known for their succulence and their SAM SAYS ‘‘For my favourite South Island ESSENTIALS theurbanwinery.co.nz a winery in the pinot noir-rich Central Auckland for a while and was fortunate experience. Mabee, who works closely with SAM SAYS ‘‘New Zealand has some distinctive flavour with crayfish, paua, winery, I’m going to say Felton Road, our VENISON New Zealand is the Otago region, about 75 minutes’ south-east enough to be able to order in from Ahi, Ben local hunters, foragers and fishers, is amazing luxury lodges with amazing food. scallops, salmon, blue cod and whitebait neighbours here at Two Paddocks. They’re FAVOURITE CASUAL DINING SPOT world’s largest producer of farmed of Queenstown. Bayly’s new restaurant. I strongly acknowledged as one of the country’s best Minaret Station is accessible only by also abundant here. friends of ours and make terrific wines.’’ AMANO BAKERY, AUCKLAND, venison (above), and local chefs excel ‘‘New Zealand’s food scene has never recommend it. I also like Kika in Wanaka chefs; last year, he was crowned Cuisine helicopter [via heliports in Queenstown or DON’T MISS The oysters’ eponymous TRAVELLER SAYS Felton Road Wines has NORTH ISLAND at preparing it. been more vibrant ... it’s going through and, more casually, Depot Eatery by Al magazine’s chef of the year. Wanaka]; this is glamping with the port town, Bluff, which is about half-an- some of the oldest vines in the Central SAM SAYS ‘‘You can really put on a few something of a revolution,’’ he says. ‘‘A lot of Brown in Auckland.’’ DON’T MISS The menu changes with the emphasis on ‘glam’. To have a up there hour south of Invercargill, the South Otago region, and makes its wines using pounds here – I could quite happily eat my GREEN-LIPPED MUSSELS Much the best chefs are using distinctively New TRAVELLER SAYS Ifyouwantacrash seasons but if it’s on the menu, don’t go past among the peaks is really special.’’ Island’s southernmost city, hosts an oyster grapes that are farmed biodynamically on way through their range of cakes. Just try bigger than Australia’s blue mussels Zealand products to produce Pacific food in Indigenous ingredients in New the paua (abalone) pie. While here, pick up TRAVELLER SAYS Given that the only festival each year. The Bluff Oyster and its three vineyards. Winemaker Blair saying no to their chocolate tart – you’ll and best enjoyed steamed. that could only be imagined here. It’s some Zealand, Ahi is the place to go. In his latest some bottles of Amisfield’s pinot noir. way to reach this Southern Alps lodge, set Food Festival 2022 festival is set to take Walter uses minimal intervention methods, never manage it.’’ of the most interesting food in the world at restaurant, Bayly – one of New Zealand’s ESSENTIALS amisfield.co.nz at an altitude of 915 metres, is via place on May 21. avoiding fining and filtration and using only TRAVELLER SAYS Occupying the ground WHITEBAIT You will find whitebait the moment.’’ most-awarded chefs – applies his refined helicopter, any stay here starts big. The ESSENTIALS bluffoysterfest.co.nz wild yeast. The cellar door is open by floor of a heritage building in the fritters on almost every menu between We asked Neill to share some of his techniques to dishes such as charcoaled FAVOURITE FINE DINING food lives up to the rest of the experience, appointment only. fashionable Britomart precinct of August and November. favourite Kiwi food and wine destinations crayfish with lemon-sorrel or wild RESTAURANT RATA, with seasonal dishes ranging from blue cod FAVOURITEPUBGRUBINA DON’T MISS Felton Road Pinot Noir Auckland’s central business district, this with us. From casual and laidback deer with parsnip and brussels sprouts. QUEENSTOWN, SOUTH ISLAND ceviche with coriander, lime, and SEASIDE SETTING DUKE OF Block 3; Felton Road Pinot Noir Block 5. bakery-restaurant is packed with FEIJOAS Originally from , this wineries to fine diners, you will find his DON’T MISS The award for the most eye- SAM SAYS ‘‘I don’t like fine dining that chilli to Te Mana lamb with eggplant and MARLBOROUGH HOTEL, RUSSELL, ESSENTIALS feltonroad.com; atmosphere and amazing sweet treats. Vitamin C-rich fruit is grown in many complete hit list below. catching has to go to Bayly’s butterfish much, but there are certain I masala paste. Even the make an BAY OF ISLANDS twopaddocks.com Whether you opt for something slightly gardens. Oh, and while Two Paddocks winery wrapped in bull kelp, looking like a carefully have great enthusiasm for. Rata never impression, thanks to dishes such as SAM SAYS ‘‘This upscale North Island pub unusual like the Basque cheesecake or keep doesn’t have a cellar door from which to carved piece of pounamu or greenstone. disappoints.’’ creamy mushrooms with truffle, porchetta, makes a great stop if you are visiting the FAVOURITE ‘ON MY MUST-VISIT it traditional with a magnificent lemon HANGI Traditional Maori method of greet visitors, do pencil in a trip across the ESSENTIALS ahirestaurant.co.nz; TRAVELLER SAYS Founded by star chef sourdough and rocket. nearby Waitangi Treaty Grounds [where LIST’ NORTH ISLAND WINERY meringue pie, there’s plenty to tempt you using an underground pit. ditch for early 2022. depoteatery.co.nz Josh Emett, Rata was envisaged as a love DON’T MISS Let one of the lodge New Zealand’s founding document, the URBAN WINERY, NAPIER here. ̈