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Food and Identity in New Zealand

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Food and Identity in New Zealand Food and Identity in New Zealand The Cross-Generational Transmission of Cultural and Gender Identity through Food by Kathey Kyoko Kudo A thesis submitted to Victoria University of Wellington in fulfilment of the requirements for the degree of Master of Arts in Sociology Victoria University of Wellington 2011 Acknowledgements I would especially like to thank my supervisor, Doctor Carol Harrington of Victoria University of Wellington, for her support over the period taken to complete this thesis. In the planning and preparation of this thesis, Dr Harrington has been extremely helpful in guiding me through all aspects of carrying out this research. Also, thanks are due to the activity managers, Ms Sue Coventry and Ms Jane Evans, for helping me to access the residents under their care for the first interviews. Also of great help were, Ms Deborah Burns, a marketing and survey statistician, for suggesting more effective wording of the questionnaire used in this study; Ms Jenny Burns for assisting me to research individuals’ origins and family histories; Mr Denis Carmody for providing photos of his ancestors; Mrs Patricia McNaught for providing a photo of a colonial era storage jar. Acknowledgements are also due to Mr Craig Jackson and Mrs Ngaire Jackson, both retirees, for helping me with proof- reading and editing the final drafts. Finally, without the enthusiastic participation of all 15 individuals who have shared their food reminiscences with me and who consented to recorded interviews, this study would not have been possible. 1 Abstract This thesis examines the previously under-explored area of the intersection of individuals’ cultural and gender identity in relation to food within the framework of New Zealand food culture. The analysis focuses upon how the cross-generational transmission of food culture has occurred within Pakeha families in New Zealand, and how the process has affected gendered identities. The study was based on analyses of in-depth interviews and reminiscences provided by 15 individual respondents from six families about their food preferences and practices. This interview data was summarised and organised into six family case histories. Also in analysing New Zealand cookbooks, the thesis considers social changes related to the changing meaning of food and cooking in association with individuals’ gender roles. Particular attention was paid to the ‘de-gendering’ of cooking. If men are cooking more nowadays than in the past, do they invest this activity with different social meanings from women? If women spend less time on food preparation than in the past, do they depend more on convenience foods? This thesis investigates how such changes interact with the cultural and social significance of food and cooking. 2 Table of Contents (page) Acknowledgments .................................................................................................1 Abstract .........................................................................................................2 Tables (1) Women as cooks..........................................................................................54 (2) Men as cooks ............................................................................................56 (3) Social Discourse on the Sunday roast .......................................................133 (4) New Zealand’s traditional puddings – comparative cooking times ..........137 (5) The cross-generational transmission of New Zealand’s food culture and gender identification according to this thesis sample................................146 (6) The participant list.....................................................................................161 (7) The families’ food preferences .................................................................167 Charts (1) My great family tree.................................................................................166 Diagrams (1) The ‘Daisy Chain’......................................................................................47 (2) Levi-Strauss’ ‘Culinary Triangle’ ............................................................129 Reproductions (1) A colonial jar .............................................................................................44 (2) The front page of Food For Flatters .........................................................51 (3) Some cover pages of New Zealand cookbooks 1900-1950 .......................57 (4) A photo of an early settler..........................................................................76 (5) A manuscript family recipe – “Aunt June’s steamed pudding’ ...............107 (6) ‘New Zealand Wants Domestic Servants’: A poster circa 1912..............204 3 PART ONE: INTRODUCTION CHAPTER ONE: RESEARCH OVERVIEW 1-1 Need for the research..................................................................................10 1-2 Rationale of the research topic...................................................................11 1-3 Definition of terms .....................................................................................11 1-4 A summary of main findings......................................................................12 CHAPTER TWO: RESEARCH METHODOLOGY 2-1 In-depth interviews in qualitative research ................................................14 2-2 The design of the interviews ......................................................................15 2-3 The conduct of the interview and the process of selecting research participants .............................................................................................16 2-4 The analysis of the interview transcripts....................................................18 2-5 The difficulty in finding suitable respondents............................................19 2-6 Pilot interviews and development of the interview questions ...................19 2-7 The relationship between respondents and the researcher.........................20 2-8 The respondents’ social background .........................................................21 2-9 The family tree ..........................................................................................22 2-10 The individual’s food preferences.............................................................22 2-11 The culinary reminiscences.......................................................................22 2-12 Organisation of case histories one to six...................................................23 2-13 Analyses of New Zealand cookbooks .......................................................23 2-14 Ethics ……... .............................................................................................24 4 PART TWO: THE THEORETICAL FRAMEWORK OF THE SOCIOLOGY OF FOOD CHAPTER THREE: FOOD AS A PROBLEM 3-1 The gender division of labour ....................................................................26 3-2 The eating disorders and gender identity ...................................................28 3-3 Social identity and obesity .........................................................................30 CHAPTER FOUR: A LITERATURE REVIEW ON NEW ZEALAND’S CULINARY HISTORY AND ITS NATIONAL IDENTITY 4-1 New Zealand’s food culture .......................................................................32 4-2 New Zealand’s culinary historians and scholars ........................................33 4-3 Food and hunger.........................................................................................34 4-4 Food and New Zealand’s national identity ................................................35 4-5 The British origin cookbooks.....................................................................36 4-6 The evolution of New Zealand’s national identity.....................................37 CHAPTER FIVE: A CONCEPTUAL BASIS FOR ANALYSING NEW ZEALAND COOKBOOKS 5-1 Historical background ................................................................................40 5-2 The most influential New Zealand cookbooks (1883-2009)......................42 5-3 Women as cooks.........................................................................................54 5-4 Men as cooks .............................................................................................56 5-5 The gendered images on the front cover of some New Zealand cookbooks (1900-1950) .............................................................................................57 5 PART THREE: THE CASE HISTORIES AND ANALYSES OF THE DYNAMICS INVOLVED CHAPTER SIX: THE SIX CASE HISTORIES 6-1 Case history one: The Dalloways...............................................................62 6-2 Case history two: Stanley and Zoe.............................................................70 6-3 Case history three: Lotte, Annabel and Toby.............................................78 6-4 Case history four: Cedric and Bridget........................................................86 6-5 Case history five: Gregory and Sebastian ..................................................94 6-6 Case history six: Paula, Ian and Alice......................................................100 6-7 A summary of the six case histories ........................................................108 CHAPTER SEVEN: ANALYSES OF THE DYNAMICS INVOLVED 7-1 Case history one: The Dalloways’ identification .....................................109 7-2 Case history two: Stanley and Zoe’s identification..................................112 7-3 Case history three: Lotte, Annabel and Toby’s
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