HELLO, WORLD! THE GCI NEWSLETTER Issue 5

Hello, World! THE GCI NEWSLETTER

PROGRAM PLANNING IDEAS FROM THE GLOBAL CULINARY INITIATIVE COMMITTEE October 2016

The GCI Latin America Issue by The Global Culinary Initiative Committee

Latin cuisine is hot, hot, hot! The Global Cu- Hispanic Flavors Rising Spanish Harlem to train and employ immi- linary Initiative explores culinary trends from grant women. The breads, including yellow, Latin America—a cultural entity that stretches • “Hispanic households are growing faster white, and blue tortillas made from heritage from Northern Mexico to South America’s than non-Hispanic households, as is their corn, are available online. average consumer spending,” says Packaged southernmost tip and includes Cuba and • There’s an ice cream revolución in the U.S. other Caribbean island nations. The region’s Facts. The Census Bureau reports that His- panics are California’s largest ethnic group. with an influx of Latin flavors: e.g., Pierre’s Latin-based Romance languages (Spanish, Holé Molé; La Michoacana Premium’s hibis- Portuguese, and French) are an outcome of • Flavor trends are shifting from mass market cus flower; and San Bernardo’s Guava con European colonization. Fusions of Amerindian, to regional Hispanic flavors from Mexico, Queso. European, and African tradition lend abun- Cuba, El Salvador, Puerto Rico, and other dant richness to Latin America’s foods and parts of Latin America, reports Food Business • Nutty-flavored manchego with its great cultures. An essential part of each country’s News. melting properties and cotija,“the Parmesan society is its unique cuisine—a kaleidoscope of Mexico,” are authentic Hispanic cheeses • The growing U.S. immigrant population is of ingredients, cooking practices, and tastes. that are finding their way into prepared driving the influx of authentic Latin Amer- Latin America’s influence on the global palate foods. ican eateries with foods characterized by is expanding. We hope the soupçon of ideas piquant peppers and bold spicing. • Diane Kennedy—93-year-old Mexican presented here inspire further exploration of cooking authority and author—is the “Brit this culinary smorgasbord. • Gourmet Retailer says Latin American cuisine who saved Mexican food.” Diane has lived in tops this year’s trends and will continue to Mexico nearly 40 years, traveling through- Hispanic Or Latin? win fans. Chefs are exploring their roots and out the country to painstakingly document “heritage cuisines” are coming into play. ✦ “Hispanic” is a U.S. resident whose ancestry traditional recipes. In 2002, Prince Charles descends from a Latin American area once • The Culinary Institute of America offers a came to lunch at her rural Michoacán home. colonized by Spain: e.g., Mexico, most of Cen- Bachelor’s degree program in Latin Cuisine tral and South America, and Spanish-speaking Studies. The New Cuban Connection areas of the Caribbean. • The National Restaurant Association’s • The easing of diplomatic relations between ✦ “Latino” is a U.S. resident, not always fluent survey of ACF chefs named Latin-inspired the U.S. and Cuba invites the exploration in Spanish, who descends from Latin America. breakfast items among the top U.S. food of authentic Cuban food. Hobbled by food Latinos can be Hispanic; but not every His- trends, such as Cuban Eggs and Pork Belly shortages and rationing, Cuba is on the cusp panic is Latino; Brazilians speak Portuguese so Chilaquiles. of change with the growth of small business enterprise, agro-ecology, and a farm-to-table they are considered Latin (not Latino). • Jessamyn Rodriguez founded the non-profit movement. Hot Bread Kitchen in upper Manhattan’s HELLO, WORLD! THE GCI NEWSLETTER Issue 5 2

• Cuban criollo, the traditional island cuisine, is • Mezcal versus Tequila: Plan a comparative influenced by Cuba’s natural resources, com- tasting with an authentic Mexican meal. plex history, and melting pot. Taíno (Arawak) Mezcal is a smokier, darker Mexican spirit people had black beans, cassava, and corn; made from various agave plants. African slaves had plantain, taro root, and okra; • Masa Harina Class: Learn to make Mex- Spanish colonists had sugar, coffee, and roasted ico’s basic corn flour dough for tortillas, meat; and Chinese workers introduced their sopes, and tamales. In the photo to the rice dishes and sweet-sour flavorings. left, (page 2), masa is shaped during a • Popular dishes include white rice and black Houston Chapter GCI event. (Photo: beans (congrí), fried plantains, tamal en Houston Chapter). cazuela (tamales in a pot without husks), grilled corn with cojita cheese, and huevos For Further Study habaneros (eggs over sofrito). ✦ Bernstein, Michelle and Andrew Friedman. • Cuba’s best places to eat include pa- Cuisine À Latina: Fresh Tastes and a World of ladares—private restaurants, often in homes, Flavors from Michy’s Miami Kitchen. Houghton which the government now sanctions. Mifflin Harcourt, 2008. • Nespresso is selling Cuban coffee to the Trending in Latin America: ✦ Gutierrez, Sandra. Latin American Street U.S. market for the first time. Cafecito de Food: The Best Flavors of Markets, Beaches, and • 2016 is the International Year of Pulses, Cuba is from Cuban Arabica coffee beans Roadside Stands from Mexico to Argentina. The according to the United Nations. Latin and initially being sold in limited addition. University of North Carolina Press, 2013. American favorites: field peas, cranberry Quick Bites From Latin America beans, black turtle beans, lima beans, and ✦ Jinich, Pati. Mexican Today: New and Re- black beluga lentils. discovered Recipes for Contemporary Kitchens. • Chewy, white tapioca crêpes from North- Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, 2016. eastern Brazil can be stuffed with sweet or • Tropical Fruits: Cherimoya (custard apple) savory fillings. The snack is taking off as a traces back to the ancient Inca. Mark Twain ✦ Peláez, Ana Sofia. The Cuban Table: A Cele- breakfast dish in the U.S. Another breakfast called it, “the most delicious fruit known bration of Food, Flavors, and History. St. Martin’s treat is pao de queijo, baked cheese bread to men.” Press, 2014. that might be filled with guava paste or • The Next Superfruit: The Peruvian pichuber- ✦ Presilla, Maricel E. Gran Cocina Latina: The cottage cheese and olives. ry is about the size and texture of a cherry Food of Latin America. W.W. Norton & Compa- • Empanadas—pastries stuffed with various tomato and has husks like the tomatillo. The ny, Inc., 2012. fillings—are popular across Latin America, sweet-tart flavor resembles kiwi. ✦ Sandison, Teri and Hugh Carpenter. Mex- and a great cross-utilization for cooked • Cucamelons! Native to Mexico and Central ican Flavors: Contemporary Recipes from Camp brisket or picadillo, a spicy beef mixture. America, the new cuke (mouse melons) re- San Miguel. Andrews McMeel Publishing, 2014. • Chapulines—crispy-fried, spicy grasshop- sembles a grape-sized watermelon but tastes pers—is a Oaxacan street snack found like cucumber with a hint of lemon. on Mexican restaurant menus. At Hugo’s in Houston, they are served in blue corn • Modern dishes connect with ancestral tortillas with guacamole and salsa. ingredients: the Aztec grain amaranth and purple corn, both native to Peru; and yuca— • Huacatay paste (black mint or Mexican mari- tuberous root of the cassava plant, native to gold) and ají amarillo chile paste are addictive Central and South America. seasonings in Peru, Bolivia, Equador, and Chile. Use for pollo a la brasa (grilled Peruvian • Essential Peruvian chiles: ají panca, (dried, GCI Hosts a Conference Breakfast slightly smoky); ají rocoto (resembles minia- chicken), potato dishes, soups, and sauces. Attend GCI’s breakfast program, ture bell pepper). Ají Amarillo—“the soul of • Argentina’s specialties include choripán Peruvian cuisine” looks like a yellow jalapeño. Culinary Diplomacy: Peace, One (sausage sandwich with chimichurri); provo- Plate at a Time, at the LDEI Conference in Washington, D.C., on Saturday, leta (caramelized, crispy grilled cheese); and Program Ideas yerba mate (bitter herb drink with caffeine). October 29. The speakers will be Lauren • Salsa Party: Compare Latin American salsas: Bernstein from the U.S. Department of • National Geographic lists Peru as one of e.g., Argentine molho à campanha, Bolivian State and Johanna Mendelson Forman the best travel sites for food. Peru’s sacred llajua, Peruvian ají amarillo sauce, and South experience of pachamanca, or Andean pit from American University’s School of American salsa criollo. roast, is often undertaken during a Peruvian International Service. • Wine Tasting: Invite a South American wine Harvest Festival as a thank you to Pacha GCI Committee Mama, or Mother Earth. expert to discuss terroir, grapes, and region- al wine production. GCI Committee members are Susan Fuller • Savvy food consumers are excited to try Slack (Charleston) and Roberta Duyff (St. unfamiliar Latin American foods, but want to • Mixology: Learn to mix national drinks: pis- Louis), Co-Chairs; Sandy Hu (San Francisco), know the traditions behind them and their co sours from Chile and Peru or caipirinha Advisor; Teresa Farney (Colorado); Martha regions of origin. (with cachaça and lime) from Brazil. Marino (Seattle); Chrissie Walker, (London). • French- and African-influenced Haitian • Green Tables Project: Grow Cucamelons in Cover art: Top left, Teri Sandison (San dishes include rice and beans with pork, and urban gardens supported by Green Tables Francisco); Rosemary Kowalski and (on mais moulin (cooked cornmeal) topped with -GCI. For seeds, visit farmers’ markets or right), Tracey Maurer (both San Antonio). sauce pois, a spicy purée of beans or peas. purchase online.