A TRIP THROUGH the Sweet Mugello Territory

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A TRIP THROUGH the sweet Mugello Territory

Local confectionary traditions and delectable places: pastry stores and bakeries, revisited recipes by Chef Luigi Incrocci.

Qui, GLOSSARY Bombolone: fried donut-like sweet fi lled with custard or jam. Cantuccini or biscotti di Prato: dry biscuits with whole almonds. Cenci: fried puff pastry sprinkled with icing sugar. Colomba: typical dove-shaped Easter cake covered in almonds. Frittelle: various types of fried dumplings (apple, rice, chestnut fl our…). Pane di ramerino: leavened buns with rosemary and raisins. Panettone: typical Christmas cake of Lombardic origin. Raviole: half-moon shaped biscuit with apricot jam fi lling. Schiacciata: fl at, light cake sprinkled with icing sugar. Spumini: meringue biscuits made with egg whites and sugar. Zeppole: fried dumplings with custard fi lling. 3 A trip through the sweet Mugello Territory

5 A cuisine that has been inﬂ uenced by both history and geography: traditional sweets

9 The sweetest Mugello sweets

11 Sweets for sale in Mugello

18 The “sweet” taste of Upper Mugello

20 Sweets for sale in Upper Mugello

23 Recipes: the chef Luigi Incrocci revises traditional sweets

28 “Sweet” events index

1 IMOLA FAENZA BOLOGNA IMOLA BOLOGNA 610 306

65 Palazzuolo FAENZA Firenzuola sul Senio 503 302

A1 503 306 Popolano

65 Marradi Biforco

Scarperia Crespino Barberino di Mugello Ronta BARBERINO San Piero exit a Sieve Vicchio 551 65 Borgo San Lorenzo Vaglia 302 FORLI' ROME

FLORENCE

motorway state road railway

For information:

COMUNITÁ MONTANA MUGELLO

Mugello Tourist Offi ce Via Palmiro Togliatti, 45 50032 Borgo San Lorenzo (FI) Tel. +39 055 84527186 Fax +39 055 8456288 turismo@cm-mugello.fi .it www.mugellotoscana.it Mugello is not only renowned to tourists for its artistic and natu- ral beauty, but also for its tradition of foods and wines. This mini-guide means to examine a particular feature, the production of sweet foods. The area, in fact, is rich in bakeries and pastry shops that produce exceptionally fi ne sweet foods. What was once merely a family tradition has been passed down and professionalized.

The charming pastry shops and the sweet smelling bakeries offer baked goods that follow “age-old” recipes using traditional ingredients or new and elaborate creatively produced sweet foods that do not so much stray from tradition as successfully enhance it.

This booklet, prepared by the Comunità Montana Mugello, means to tempt the palate of those tourists who are visiting Mugello, whether for a long stay, a weekend, or just a day trip to one of the numerous local fairs and events that take place all through the territory. With this booklet we intend to promote a speciality that is particularly close to the hearts of anyone with a sweet tooth. Numerous local sweet foods will be made available to the traveller who wishes to visit Mugello: typical mountain cakes made with chestnuts and the marrone (the typical Mugello chest- a trip through the sweet Mugello Territory

3 nut), as well as crostate (pies), cantucci (dry biscuits made with almonds), biscotti (biscuits), frittelle (fried pastry), dolci al cucchi- aio (custards and puddings), millefoglie (creamy layer cake) or the original torte rinascimentali (Renaissance cakes).

This handy pocket guide includes, along with a brief history of local sweet foods, a list of all the producers in Mugello - pastry shops, bars and bakeries - their addresses and the specialties they produce to provide customers with all the information they need.

A famous international cook, Luigi Incrocci, whose origins lie in Mugello, has contributed greatly to the making of the guide by reviewing traditional recipes and giving them his own per- sonal touch.

It is, after all, tempting literature for people with a sweet tooth and... an interesting way for gluttons to mix “business and pleasure”, so to speak, as they visit the homes of the Medici, parish churches, convents, the Art Nouveau itinerary, small museums, or simply take a walk or bike ride through the territory. Not only can they stop to enjoy a “sweet” snack, but they can also take a taste of the local cuisine home with them.

4 A cuisine that has been inﬂ uenced by both history and geography: traditional sweets

Although Mugello stands isolated by mountains and woods, and has been, for centuries, a mere rural extension of Florence, it is a land that has borne numerous infl uences. On one hand we fi nd Florence with its history and seigniories, and on the other the nearby Romagna and its lords, not to mention the Medici court, and its profound Christian fervour. All these things have infl uenced not only the history and character of Mugello, but also the cuisine. There are obvious traces of these infl uences in the abundant use of meat, much of which arrived in Florence from Mugello, or fi rst courses, which resemble those prepared in Romagna, and in the work of Pellegrino Artusi, who like this very valley, lived between Florence and Emilia-Romagna. And let us not forget the important Medici dishes, which were elaborated by cooks from all over the world who, especially during the times of Caterina, created specialities to be served in banquets in Cafaggiolo Castle. These specialities were then, thanks to the local kitchen help, adopted by the local population, who prepared them with the only ingredients they had at hand. These ingredients were fresh and abundant and always seasonal and offered, along with an exquisite fl avour, healthy and nutritional meals that were perfect for the hard work in the fi elds. Numerous special events, many religious, also offered dishes to enhance the feast during these holidays, and to celebrate the patron saint or the end of fasting.

( Sandro Botticelli, “Banchetto con le nozze di Nastagio degli Onesti”

5 The same can be said for the creation of sweets. Eggs, ﬂ our, milk, butter, marroni chestnuts, honey and grapes have always been part of the local cuisine, and sweets meant feasts, and therefore an alternative to the daily meals that were essentially the same week after week. Almost every farm house had its own wood-ﬁ red oven where, once the bread had been baked and the oven cooled slightly, excellent cakes could be made to be used for breakfast or breaks in the long work day.

Until the post-war years, town holidays, religious holidays, the Carnival season and harvest feasts were a time in which housewives applied themselves the most and competed to make the best, most tasty cakes. Sweets were offered after Mass, often an occasion for young single men to court single women.

Seasons were extremely relevant: with the grape harvest came a grape pie (grapes baked on ﬂ attened bread dough) called schiacciata con l’uva, which was a nutritional food at harvest time, and also propitiating. With the cold winters came ( Above: pies and biscuits the easily preserved marroni chestnuts, especially in the Apennines, which can be eaten fresh - they are, in fact sweet by nature, and therefore no sugar is added - or, once dried, can be used as ﬂ our for the preparation of various foods. Spring brought with it numerous different types of fruit and aromas, and was therefore perfect for making pies, biscuits, and sweets made with rice. In summer milk and eggs were abundant and, thanks to the 6 creativeness of certain cooks, a perfect ( Below: alchermes biscuits and sweets made with marroni

7 time to prepare fresh and nutritional custards and mousses.

In the production of sweets, notwithstan- ding the difference in quantity and com- position, the distinction between rich and poor, lords and farmers seemed less pro- nounced because tastes and likes were similar. The Torta in Balconata (literally, the balcony cake), for example, which has only recently been rediscovered, is a strictly local recipe made with numerous spices, dried and candied fruit and nuts, and although it was created for the Medi- ci court, was widespread among the po- orer families in a less elaborate, less spicy yet equally appetizing version.

A taste for sweets has been passed on through the ages along with an apprecia- tion for ﬁ rst quality, delicious ingredients that make the production of sweet foods in Mugello reason for a stopover, if not a long stay, in which to appreciate the numerous bakeries and pastry shops in the territory.

( Above: torta in balconata ( Right: castagnaccio

8 The sweetest Mugello sweets

In the recent past a number of devoted restaurant owners in cooperation with the Tourist Ofﬁ ce of the Comunità Montana Mugello have picked out a number of recipes from the traditional recipes rediscovered by Tebaldo Lorini, an expert in local customs. The purpose was to propose a typical Mugello menu that would bring out the importance of traditional foods and local products.

Among the various recipes of traditional sweets we ﬁ nd the particular zuccherini biscuits, which were placed in the Befana stocking and hung on the ﬁ replace on the Epiphany, and which helped strengthen the teeth of small children, the berlingozzi, a Renaissance biscuit, which is, strangely enough, boiled and then baked, and also the bocche di dama, made with eggs, chopped almonds and grated lemon rind.

Of the many desserts, one of the most famous was the latte alla portoghese, which was prepared in every household and suited to every meal. It is prepared by boiling milk and sugar, lemon rind and vanilla. Once the milk cools, well beaten eggs are added and the mixture is then baked in the oven in a bain-marie.

A trip through the sweet Mugelloil territorio Territory

9 Given the richness of its chestnut forests, the area obviously made good use of its marroni chestnuts when preparing sweets. The castagnaccio is among the most famous. There are two main recipes: one in which only water is added to the chestnut ﬂ our, oil and rosemary mixture; and the other in which the mixture is enhanced with raisins, pine seeds and walnut kernels. Obviously this second recipe was rarely prepared in poor farm homes. Ano- ther famous sweet is the torta di marroni. This recipe is more elaborate but extremely tasty. It is made by combining smooth and creamy marroni puree with light and crumbly puff pastry.

Among the cake recipes we ﬁ nd a recipe rediscovered by Lorini called crostata di ricotta. This elaborate cake is made with ricotta, raisins, eggs, candied citron-peel, chopped almonds, sugar and rum. The schiacciata con l’uva is a simple sweet that is directly linked to the grape harvest and is made with bread dough and grapes.

Fried sweets are also a part of tradition. One of the recipes is frittelle, made with apples or rice for the feast days of San Biagio, and San Giuseppe, respectively. In Upper Mugello another fried sweet is very popular: tortellini fritti. The tortellini are ﬁ lled with marroni puree, rum and alkermes, and a touch of icing sugar.

( short pastry biscuits

10 sweets for sale in Mugello

BARBERINO DI MUGELLO • BORGO SAN LORENZO • SAN PIERO A SIEVE • SCARPERIA • VICCHIO •

11 BARBERINO DI MUGELLO Tel. + 39 055 841287 Cantuccini, pies, biscuits, zuc- PASTICCERIA DOLCE&SALATO cherini, schiacciata con l’uva, Corso Bartolomeo Corsini, 67 schiacciata alla ﬁ orentina, torta della nonna, castagnaccio, pane Tel. + 39 055 8479386 di ramerino. Specialities: dry Tel. + 39 393 4450093 almond biscuits (called “paste Assortment of sweets. Specialities: secche”), chocolate biscuits, Neapolitan Babà and Cannoli. almond biscuits. PASTICCERIA PANIFICIO TAORMINA NUTI MAURIZIO Corso Bartolomeo Corsini Via della Miniera, 11 Tel. and Fax + 39 055 8417849 Tel. + 39 055 8479595 Dry and soft biscuits, cakes, Biscuits and seasonal sweets. and typical Sicilian products. Specialities: schiacciata alla PANIFICIO VIVOLI ﬁ orentina, millefoglie, budino di Via L. Da Vinci 5/R riso, torta della nonna, frittelle Tel. + 39 055 841152 and cenci, yogurt bread. Dry biscuits, cantuccini, FORNO ALIMENTARI pies, schiacciata con l’uva. IL TEMPIO DEI SAPORI Speciality: “zuccherini Corso Bartolomeo Corsini, 128 del Mugello”.

PASTICCERIA MARTINUCCI Piazza Cavour, 3/5 - Barberino di Mugello Tel. + 39 055 8416690 This bar-bakery looks onto the main square of the town, near the very old loggia. The Martinucci bakery was founded roughly 30 years ago and has evolved through the years, passing from one owner to another, until fi nally it has been transformed into a coffee bar/bakery serving high quality, home made sweets. Along with some typical Mugello sweets, for example pasta frolla (short pastry) and bomboloni ripieni, the Martinucci bakery offers its clients a vast assortment that goes from cornetti (croissants) to dry biscuits and cantuccini to marzipan biscuits, as well as bite size pizzas and sandwiches (also made with whole-wheat fl our). The specialities of the house include fruit fl avoured mousses, fruit pies, millefoglie (layer cake with custard) and the Viennese Sachertorte. In certain times of the year, for example during the holiday seasons, traditional sweets, such as panettoni, colombe, cenci and frittelle are prepared and can be bought in holiday boxes and specially 12 made hand crafted baskets. IL FORNAIO DI GALLIANO Corso M. da Galliano 67/69 - Loc. Galliano - Barberino di Mugello Tel. + 39 055 8428054 This typical bakery is situated in the historical center of Galliano. It was founded just after the war for the production of bread only, but today the “fornaio di Galliano” not only produces bread, it also bakes many sweet foods and is a shop with a vast assortment of other products such as salami, prosciutto, cheese and home made specialities. Besides the different types of bread, salty goods, and special loaves like “kamut” or “ginsens”, this bakery offers a rich assortment of biscuits: cantucci, pasta frolla (short pastry like occhi di bue, bull’s eye, farfalline, butterfl ies etc…) and those made with marzipan. Strudel, zeppole, bomboloni, zuccherini, sfogliatine, cantucci al cioccolato and tartarughe (literally turtles) are the specialities of the house. Along with these delicious goodies we also fi nd numerous typical Mugello sweets such as ciambelline (little donuts), pasta alle sette uova (seven egg pastry), schiacciata alla fi orentina, castagnaccio (fl at cake made with chestnut fl our) and crostate di frutta (fruit pies). During the holiday season, traditional sweets are produced, for example pan di ramerino, fried or baked cenci, frittelle di riso, panforte (fruit and nut cake), ricciarelli (marzipan biscuits), as well as panettoni and colombe made with sourdough.

BORGO SAN LORENZO millefoglie, home made production of chocolate goods. PASTICCERIA AURELIO Via D. Partigiana Garibaldi, 5 PASTICCERIA BENCINI Tel. and Fax:+ 39 055 8457366 Viale Pecori Giraldi, 52/54 Panmarrone del Mugello, Tel. + 39 055 8495912 marengo, zuccotto, Sacher- Tel. +39 334 3284612 torte and decorated cakes on Sweets with custard, chocolate demand, as well as numerous for ice-cream cakes. chocolate goods. Speciality: Specialities: millefoglie, “Torta in balconata” made bongo, bongo bianco, bongo al from the 15th century recipe. limone, decorated cakes. PASTICCERIA BAR ITALIA PASTICCERIA CESARINO Piazza Curtatone e Montanara, 2 Piazza Martiri della Libertà, 7 Tel. + 39 055 8459003 Tel. + 39 055 8459357 Frittelle, cenci, schiacciata con Various types of biscuits, holiday l’uva, castagnaccio, torta della cakes. Specialities: rice cakes, nonna, budino di riso, panet- chocolate mousse, millefoglie, tone, pandoro, panforte. Speci- marengo, bignoline, frittelle with 13 alities: schiacciata alla ﬁ orentina, apples, colombe and panettoni. PASTICCERIA zuccherini, frittelle, cenci. Speci- MALAFEMMINA ality: “Dolce di San Lorenzo”. Piazza del Mercato 47/49 LABORATORIO DI Tel. + 39 334 2953261 Neapolitan specialities: babà, PASTICCERIA MARCHI C.M.P. sfogliatelle, arancini, Neapoli- Via Firenze, 17 tan pastry, struffoli, zeppole Tel. + 39 055 8494125 di San Giuseppe, code di Holiday cakes and sweets. aragosta, cassatine, Neapoli- Specialities: frittelle, pasta di tan buns. mandorle, cantucci. PASTICCERIA FORNO VILIANI VALECCHI ALFREDO Corso Giacomo Matteotti, 125 Via Giuseppe Mazzini, 6 Tel. + 39 055 8457161 Tel. + 39 055 8495930 Production and sale of biscuits Pan di noci and schiacciata and pastry: homemade and con l’uva, castagnaccio, torta fresh custard cakes, torta della della nonna, rice cakes, pan di nonna, bavarese, millefoglie, ramerino, pane allo zibibbo, doughnuts, croissants. schiacciata, biscottini di Prato, Speciality: cantucci.

FORNO CARNEVALI Via Pietro Caiani 29 - Borgo San Lorenzo Tel and Fax + 39 055 8456421 - [email protected] The Forno Carnevali was founded by a thirty year old man from Luco di Mugello with almost twenty years of experience in the fi eld and a great passion for baking. Il Forno, situated opposite the Centro Piscine Mugello in Borgo San Lorenzo, was inaugurated in June, 2002, and is since renowned for its overwhelming variety of products. You can, in fact, fi nd numerous different types of bread: from the classical Mugello bread to the typical Tuscan bread, from the salted Pugliese bread to Sicilian bread with sesame seeds, not to mention the Sardi- nian buns. Sourdough bread is a speciality, especially when made with hot chilli peppers or oregano. Pizza and schiacciate (white pizza) with fi lling are one of the specialities of the bakery, along with the cecina (fl at cake made with chick pea fl our). Ten different types of pizza are prepared as well as the classical schiacciate with fresh vegetables. The production of holiday sweets is also important, for example, frittelle di riso, castagnaccio, or different fl avoured crostate (blackberry/apricot/chocolate/fi g/nut pies). The special sweets and biscuits are also a must, especially the “Cantuccini Carnevali”, dry biscuits made with 14 almonds, chocolate and hazel nuts, cocoa and hazel nuts, or chestnuts. PANIFICIO “SANDRO E ROMINA” Di Pelaia S. E R. Grifoni S.n.c. Via Brocchi, 21/23 - Borgo San Lorenzo Tel. + 39 055 8459285 At just a hop skip and jump from Piazza del Mercato, in the historical centre of Borgo San Lorenzo, the Panifi cio Pasticceria Sandro e Romina has been working passionately at producing, for over 15 years, bread and traditional sweets. Along with the many oven baked goods, for example Tuscan bread, ciabatte (fl at bread), brown bread and buns, the Forno produces a vast assortment of typical Mugello holiday sweets. Among the Forno’s specialities we fi nd the crostate (fruit pies), which are always centre-stage in the shop window, the spumini, a sort of meringue biscuit made with egg whites and sugar, the castagnaccio and the schiacciata con l’uva as well as the particular “brucini”, and the short pastry - one of the bakeries fi nest feats. Along with these delicious sweets, the Forno Sandro e Romina offers excellent lunch snacks and prepares oven baked legumes, chick peas and beans, every day.

PANIFICIO SAN PIERO A SIEVE GIOVANNINI OMERO E. F. BAR CAFFE’ TURISMO Via Lapi, 2/4/6 Via Provinciale, 5/G Tel. + 39 055 8494499 Tel. + 39 055 8498066 Pies. Specialities: strudel, torta Pastry and sweets. della nonna, pane di ramerino Speciality: crêpe. and pane di zibibbo. BAR PASTICCERIA VIVA LO YOGURT MARCELLO YOGURTERIA CREPERIA Via Provinciale, 52 PASTICCERIA Tel. + 39 055 8498193 Piazza Dante Alighieri, 18 Millefoglie, bongo, schiacciata Tel. + 39 055 8455139 alla fi orentina, schiacciata con Cakes and biscuits made with l’uva, castagnaccio, torta della yogurt. Specialities: yogurt, ice- nonna, budino di riso, pies, cream and granite (ice juice). frittelle, cenci, zuccherini, and biscottini di Prato. PASTICCERIA VILLORESI Via Provinciale, 55 Tel. and Fax + 39 055 848220 15 Schiacciata alla fi orentina, SCARPERIA biscuits, millefoglie, bilberry pie, PANIFICIO FIORAVANTI strawberry pie, budino di riso, Viale Giacomo Matteotti, 5 biscotti di Prato, ciambelline, Tel. + 39 055 846208 spumini; schiacciata con l’uva and castagnaccio upon request. Holiday sweets, panettoni, colombe, frittelle and cenci. Speci- FORNO CONTI ality: pesche (peach-like biscuits) GIULIANO fi lled with cream and chocolate. Via Provinciale, 42 Tel. + 39 055 8498288 PANIFICIO Tel. + 39 055 848054 PISANI GIUSEPPE Mantovane, pies and cakes, Viale John Fitzgerald pan di ramerino con zibibbo, Kennedy, 23 schiacciate alla fi orentina, Tel. + 39 055 8468151 frittelle, cenci, colombe and Short crust pastry, biscotti di panettoni. Speciality: “Pane Prato, made with chocolate, del Mugello”. fi ve grain cereal, cakes and pies.

BAR PASTICCERIA F.LLI VADICAMO G & C. Via Roma, 98 - Scarperia Tel.+ 39 055 8430873

The Fratelli Vadicamo bakery is fairly new, and is in the heart of Scarperia, just a few metres from the Vicari Palace. The newly restored bakery has been open since December 2007, and offers a vast assortment of original products that combine the recipes of traditional sweets from both Calabria and Mugello. The young owners offer their clients the 20 year experience they have accumulated in bakeries fi rst in Calabria and then in Tuscany. The shop window offers a vast array of tempting products: small pastry, cannoli with ricotta, almond biscuits and croissants. They also offer an assortment of salty snacks: small pizzas, schiacciate and fi lling, and the delicious wurstel in camicia (hot dogs baked in bread dough). The shop also produces gift boxes with short crust pastry and a vast assortment of breakfast buns, croissants etc. 16 VICCHIO PASTICCERIA GRAND’ITALIA Via Benvenuto Cellini, 10 Tel. + 39 055 8497136 Chestnut cake, biscotti di Prato, zuccotti and millefoglie. PANIFICIO MARSILI Piazza Della Vittoria, 14 Tel. + 39 055 844248 Specialities: blackberry and apricot pie, schiacciata con l’uva, pane di ramerino, cenci and frittelle. PANIFICIO ROSSI Via Gioacchino Rossini, 9 Tel. + 39 055 8497370 Laboratory Tel. + 39 055 8407949 Ciambelline, schiacciata alla fi orentina, schiacciata con l’uva, castagnaccio, torta della nonna, budino di riso, pan di ramerino, schiacciata, crostate, zuccherini, biscottini di Prato, spumini, panini con zibibbo and anici (called“scole”).

COOPERATIVA AGRICOLA ( marrons glacés and Mugello honey IL FORTETO Fraz. Rossoio, 6 (S.S. 551 Km 19) Tel. and Fax + 39 055 8448745 Specialities: bruttiboni, cantucci, biscuits, mantovana, plumcake, ice-cream cake, zuccotti, gateau aretino, cake, ciambellone, panettone and 17 colombe. The “sweet” taste of Upper Mugello In Marradi, Palazzuolo sul Senio and Firenzuola recipes and cooking secrets have been passed down by word of mouth: the culinary tradition on this side of the Tuscan Apennine, which over- looks Romagna, includes foods that are made from simple ingredients but that can be prepared by only greatly skilful hands. Sweet foods were the most diffi cult to prepare and were made mostly to celebrate important holidays: Christmas, New Year’s Day, the Epipha- ny, Easter and the patron saints. The area is rich in chestnuts and marroni woods, making marroni the main ingredient in numerous sweets, which range from the sugar coat- ed roast chestnuts covered in Grappa - used to welcome the soon to be son-in-law - to the famous castagnaccio - a simple cake made with chestnut fl our that was enhanced with morsels and tidbits from the pantry: dried fruit, rosemary and citrus fruit peels - to the more elaborate torta di marroni - the typical Marradi sweet. Every household had its very own special recipe for this delicious cake - which combines smooth and tasty marroni puree with light and crumbly puff pastry. On winter eves and Carnivals, when families and friends gathered in enormous kitchens with ( marroni cakes huge welcoming fi replaces and played games or told riddles and anecdotes while an accordion or harmonica played softly in the background, simpler, less elaborate sweets were offered. The guests ate hot or cold ballotte, marroni boiled in water with laurel leaves, croccante, a sweet made from sugar, water, nut kernels and hazel nuts, and frittelle di farina di castagne, fried chestnut fl our dumplings. Most of the sweets bore the infl uence of the nearby Emilia Romagna, but also the city of Flor- ence that lies some distance away. 18 During the Epiphany housewives prepared crisp A trip through the sweet Mugelloil territorio Territory and crumbly biscuits with lard and brigidini to fi ll stockings for the Befana. In this same period housewives prepared the crispy zuccherini, which were suited to the strong and healthy teeth of children, and were eaten with milk. These biscuits were easily preserved because the recipe does not include yeast. On November 2, All Souls’ Day, round dry biscuits, either white or red - with the addition of kermes - were prepared: they were the fusaie of the Dominican nuns, eaten also during Lent because they were prepared without lard. And for dessert, Portuguese milk was very popular, especially for pregnant women. The women of the town delighted all the children by preparing spumoni, a simple 19 biscuit similar to meringue made with sugar and egg whites. sweets for sale in Upper Mugello

• FIRENZUOLA • MARRADI • PALAZZUOLO SUL SENIO

20 FIRENZUOLA and kamut). Tuscan traditional PANIFICIO MASINI bread museum. Sale of salty ALIMENTARI snacks made with spelt, wheat Via Imolese, 20 and kamut fl our. Tel. + 39 055 819309 MARRADI Pies, ring-shaped cakes, schiacciata alla fi orentina. Speciali- PANETTERIA-PASTICCERIA ties: red and white zuccherini. BELLINI PANIFICIO Via Fabroni, 40 STRAZZA GISELLA Tel. and Fax + 39 055 8044398 Località Traversa, 3/C Sweets made with marroni, Tel. + 39 055 819160 spelt biscuits, zuccherini, small Cantuccini, red and white zuc- pastry. Specialities: marroni cherini and other sweets. cake, fried tortellini, marroni roll, marroni pudding. PANIFICIO TOSCANO TURRINI PANIFICIO COSTICCI Via Giovanni XXIII, 13 ARMANDO & CO. Tel. and Fax + 39 055 819160 Via San Benedetto, 1 Pies, castagnaccio, apple cakes, Tel. + 39 055 8042735 cantuccini, Tuscan and Romag- Tel. + 39 055 8045161 nola bread, schiacciata di Pas- Ring cakes, pies, biscuits. qua with raisins and zibibbo, Specialities: marroni cake, spumini, and Christmas rolls. castagnaccio, ricci di marroni, Specialities: zuccherini, raviole marroni roll, fried tortelli. with jam, sfogliata with hazel PANIFICIO PASTICCERIA nuts, “occhietti” (biscuits made QUADALTI from puff pastry and chocolate). Via Talenti, 31/33 PASTICCERIA TAGLIAFERRI Tel. + 39 055 8045089 Viale Giovanni XXIII, 2/E Tel. + 39 055 8045095 Tel. +39 055 819135 Fax +39 055 8045095 Production and sale of sweets, Ring-shaped cakes, cakes with cakes and all assortment of rice, with ricotta, torta della biscuits. nonna, millefoglie, pies, biscuits, AZIENDA AGRICOLA cantuccini. BIOLOGICA LA SELVA DI TIRLI Specialities: marroni cake and Via San Pellegrino, 1651 other specialities with marroni: Tel. + 39 055 816116 fried tortellini, strudel, pud- Fax + 39 055 816196 ding, bavarese, pesche ripiene. Production and sale of tradi- Castagnaccio and ring-shaped tional organic foods (bread, cake made with marroni fl our. biscuits and cakes) using Sabadoni (marroni fi lled bis- various types of fl our (wheat, cuits dunked in saba - concen- 21 rice, chestnut, corn, rye, spelt, trated must). FORNO SARTONI Via Fabbrini, 22 - Marradi Tel.+ 39 055 8045458 Sartoni bakery, situated in the centre of Marradi, was founded in 1945 to provide the town with Tuscan bread; given the geographi- cal local however, it soon began to specialize in the production of goods that contained the typical food of Marradi: the marrone. Besides the baked goods - bread, schiacciate, and different types of pizza - it specializes in marroni cake, castagnaccio, biscuits made with marroni fl our, marroni pie, schiacciata alla fi orentina, biscuits, pies and ring-shaped cakes. The shop also offers cantuccini, spumini, and sweets using yogurt, plum cake, ricotta cake and the typical Tuscan Apennine biscuits called tartarughe (litterally turtles). During the holiday season we can also fi nd typical holiday treats such as panettoni and colombe.

BAR BIANCO Piazza Scalelle 19 - Marradi Tel. +39 055 8045136 In 1955, when Bar Bianco was founded, it was an ice-cream and pastry shop. For 53 years it has been run by the same family, which still produces its specialities in the traditional fashion. The large hall, which sits many clients, is inside an 18th century structure that underwent an important restoration process to preserve and protect the original construction. Numerous stuccos and drawings were restored and now fall under the protection of the Ministry of Fine Arts. Typical Marradi goods are produced there and, of course, the marrone chestnut is emblematic of traditional culture and cuisine. The specialities of the house are: marroni cake, marroni roll, castagnaccio, barchetta di marroni, marroni and ricotta cake, bocconcini di marroni and marroni and apple strudel. Bar Bianco offers an excellent assortment of ice cream products, in fact, we can even ﬁ nd marroni ice-cream and the extremely original ice-cream made with yogurt, caramel ﬁ gs and pecorino.

PALAZZUOLO SUL SENIO Specialities: biscuits, cantucci, IL FORNO rame and fusaie (red and white DI SDRUCCIOLI FABRIZIO zuccherini), sospiri (with chopped Via Duca d’Aosta, 4 almonds), spumini and marzipan 22 Tel. + 39 055 8046030 and sponge cake upon request. ricette

Luigi Incrocci revises traditional sweets

The chef Luigi Incrocci received his diploma thirty years ago from the Istituto Alberghiero di Firenze. He has worked in various different restaurants and hotels, studied with Gualtiero Marchesi in Erbusco, and cooked for Kohl, D’Alema and Chirac when the G7 was in Florence. Thanks to his great professionalism he classifi ed 64th of the hun- dred chefs listed in the Who’s Who of Chefs of the World. He is an internationally famous cook, a representative of Mugello but also a point of reference for the territory, who has put in four traditional recipes - four revisions, one for each season - which use the same type of ingredients and offer the reader useful sugges- 23 tions that will help bring a bit of Tuscany into their own homes. WINTER torta di marroni INGREDIENTS for the pastry: 200 gr. fl our - 40 gr. sugar - 1 spoon butter - pinch of salt - milk to make it smooth for the fi lling: 600 gr. boiled, peeled marroni - 0.8 litre whole milk - 200 gr. fresh cream - 400 gr. sugar - 5 eggs, pinch of salt - 2 tablespoons rum or other non-sweet liquor - vanilla essence The pastry: add sugar, butter and salt to the fl our using the milk to make a smooth round ball (like pasta dough). Place the dough in the fridge for 1 hour. The fi lling: boil the chestnuts in milk, cream, sugar, and vanilla essence for 1 hour. Blend the ingredients together. Chill, then add the eggs, liquor and salt. Roll out a thin layer of pastry and place it on a previously greased baking sheet. Spread the chestnut paste and place it in a pre- heated oven at 190°. Bake for roughly 90 minutes Serve warm with vinsanto.

WINTER marroni strudel and persimmon sauce INGREDIENTS for the fi lling: 300 gr. dry marroni - 70 gr. sugar - 100 gr. cream - ½ litre milk - pinch of cinnamon for the pastry: 100 gr. white fl our - 80 gr. melted butter - 1 egg - warm water for the sauce: 200 gr. ripe persimmon - 80 gr. icing sugar - half lemon - 100 gr. whipping cream The fi lling: Boil the marroni in the milk, cream, sugar and cinnamon. Blend the ingredients together. The pastry: add butter and egg to the fl our using warm water to make a smooth round ball (like pasta dough). Place the dough in the fridge for 1 hour. The sauce: peel the persimmons and blend them with the icing sugar and lemon. Whip the cream. Roll out a thin layer of pastry, add the fi lling and roll the strudel into shape. Brush with egg to seal the borders. Place in a pre- heated oven at 180°. Bake for roughly 25-30 minutes. When the strudel has cooled pour the sauce over it and add tufts 24 of whipping cream. rice frittelle for Saint Joseph’s day SPRING INGREDIENTS 200 gr. small grain rice -1 litre milk - 30 gr. butter - 200 gr. sugar - 2 tablespoons rum - 100 gr. white fl our - 4 eggs - 1 orange peel - peanut oil for frying (a tablespoon of lard can also be added at pleasure) - 1 pinch salt Boil the milk, add the rice, a pinch of salt and the butter and boil for 1 hour on low heat. Remove from heat and add 100 gr. sugar, the orange peel and 2 tablespoons of rum. When the mixture is cool add the fl our and egg yolks. Cover with a cloth and set to rest for 2 hours (in a cool place rather than the fridge). Beat the egg whites fi rm and add the mixture stirring clockwise from bottom to top. Fry spoon-sized lumps in abundant peanut oil (and a tablespoon of lard if desired). Turn the frittelle over frequently. When chilled sprinkle the frittelle with icing sugar.

rice dessert with apple and strawberries SPRING INGREDIENTS 200 gr. small grain rice - 1 litre milk - 30 gr. butter - 200 gr. sugar - 2 tablespoons rum - 100 gr. white ﬂ our - 4 eggs - 1 orange peel - peanut oil for frying (a tablespoon of lard can also be added at pleasure) - 1 pinch salt Boil the milk with the cinnamon, orange peel and vanilla essence. Once the milk has come to a boil remove the spices, add the rice and honey and boil until it is partly condensed. Prepare the isinglass (or gelatine) and add it to the warm rice. Chill and then add small strawberries cubes and the cream (lightly whipped) by stirring slowly from bottom to top until the mixture is smooth and creamy. Pour into single serving moulds, previously greased with almond oil, let sit in the freezer 2 hours. Remove from freezer ½ hour before serving.

25 SUMMER latte alla portoghese INGREDIENTS 0,5 litre fresh milk - 200 gr. fresh cream - 350 gr. sugar - 6 whole eggs - one orange and lemon peel - vanilla essence Boil the milk, cream, 300 gr. sugar, vanilla and citrus peels slowly for 30 minutes. Meanwhile, caramel the remaining sugar with 4 tablespoons of water. When it is brown add it to the pudding mould. Beat the eggs and add the milk a little at a time. Stir frequently so that the mixture doesn’t stick. Pour the mixture into the cold mould and bake at 130 ° in a bain- marie until it stiffens. Serve cold.

SUMMER rosemary custard INGREDIENTS 500 gr. cream - 80 gr. milk - vanilla bean - 1 whole egg - 5 egg yolks - 150 gr. sugar - 2 sticks rosemary - 1 pinch salt - 1 tablespoon vinsanto Bring the milk, cream, vanilla bean and crushed rosemary to a boil. Beat the egg yolks, sugar and salt lightly. Remove the rosemary from the milk with the help of a sieve. Pour the milk over the eggs while stirring slowly so as not to make too much froth. Pour into cappuccino mugs, ¾ full. Set in a 130° oven in a bain-marie for 40 minutes. Chill and cover with cane sugar. Caramelize under a grill to create a hot crunchy crust.

26 grape pie AUTUMN INGREDIENTS 500 gr. bread dough (which can be bought ready to use from the bakery) - 600 gr. small, mature black grapes - 3 tablespoons fresh pork lard - 6 tablespoons sugar Work the lard and two spoonfuls of sugar into the bread dough. Cover with a cloth and set to rest for an hour. Roll out the dough - not too thin - with a rolling pin. Grease a baking sheet with the lard and cover with half the dough. Cover abundantly in grapes and a spoonful of sugar. Fold the remaining dough over the pie. Press the top down lightly with your ﬁ ngers to close the sides. Add more grapes and another spoonful of sugar on top. Set to rest for an hour before baking in a 190° oven for 35-40 minutes. Serve cold.

white chocolate mousse with marinated grapes AUTUMN INGREDIENTS for the marinated grapes: 250 ml Muscat grape juice - 30 gr. cane sugar - 30 Muscat grapes or any other white grape - half renette apple (cut in cubes) - lemon juice drops - few lemon balm leaves - grape must (saba or sapa) for the mousse: 200 gr. white chocolate shavings - 150 ml milk - 4 gr. gelatine leafs - 220 gr. lightly whipped cream - few mint leaves Bring the grape juice, sugar, apple and lemon to a boil. Skim the froth and remove from heat. Pour into a bowl, add the lemon balm leaves and put the sauce in the fridge. Before serving, set in a bain-marie and add grape halves. To prepare the mousse, boil the milk and gelatine, mix well and add the chocolate until the mixture is smooth and creamy. Chill to 30° and add the whipped cream. Pour the mixture into single serving moulds and leave to cool for 3 hours in fridge. To remove from the mould, heat slightly, place on a serving tray and add the sauce.

27 “sweet” events

RASSEGNA [email protected] ENOGASTRONOMICA www.prolocoscarperia.it MUGELLANA FESTA DEL DOLCE (Mugello food fair) (Sweets fair) Scarperia, Palazzo dei Vicari Firenzuola First week in April 3rd Wednesday in August Exhibition, tasting and sale Tasting of local, traditional of local products (sweet sweets. Live music. and salty). Info: tel. +39 055 8199459 Info: tel. +39 055 8468165, f.mazzoni@comune.fi renzuola.fi .it 28 055 843161 www.fi renzuolaturismo.it SAGRA DELLE DAL BOSCO CASTAGNE E DALLA PIETRA (Chestnut festival) (From the woods Marradi and the stone) Sundays in October Firenzuola Sale of IGP Mugello Marroni Sundays in October and tasting of marroni speciali- Display of articles in pietra ties. For the occasion, railway serena (local grey sand stone), trains run by antique steam en- sale of marroni and products gines link Marradi to the cities from the woods. of Florence, Bologna, Rimini. Info: tel. +39 055 8199459 Info: tel. +39 055 8045170 f.mazzoni@comune.fi renzuola.fi .it [email protected] www.fi renzuolaturismo.it www.pro-marradi.it www.sagradellecastagne.it FESTA DEI MARRONI (Marroni festival) SAGRA DEL MARRONE Vicchio E DEI FRUTTI Sundays in October DEL SOTTOBOSCO Sale of marroni, bruciate (Marroni and products (roasted marroni) and other of the woods food fair) products made with chestnuts. Palazzuolo sul Senio Info: tel. +39 055 8439225 Sundays in October Sale of IGP Mugello marroni CONCORSO and tasting of autumn dishes. GASTRONOMICO Music and folklore. Marradi Info: tel. +39 055 8046125 First half of December [email protected] Food contest celebrating www.palazzuoloeventi.com sweets made with fresh marroni chestnuts and chestnut fl our. SMARRONANDO Taste testing of the sweets in E SVINANDO the competition. (Marroni and wine festival) Info: tel. +39 055 8042363, 055 Firenzuola - Pietramala 84527185/6, +39 335 6926512 Sundays of the fi rst half [email protected] of October www.stradadelmarrone.it Tasting of marroni and marroni products, wine and local specialities. Info: tel. +39 055 8199459 f.mazzoni@comune.fi renzuola.fi .it 29 www.fi renzuolaturismo.it my recipes