The Story of Craigellachie National Nature Reserve

Foreword

Craigellachie National Nature Reserve (NNR) stands proud to the west of the A9 by Aviemore, in Strathspey. The Reserve offers a tranquil respite, for local people and visitors alike, from the hustle and bustle of the nearby village. It is one of a suite of nine1 NNRs within the Cairngorms National Park.

Craigellachie is noted for one of the largest remaining birch woodlands in Strathspey, but this is not its only strength. A network of trails meander gently amongst the birch and around the lochs, which on summer days host scintillating dragonfly displays. In marked contrast to the nearby pinewoods, the birch of Craigellachie mirrors the mood of the season. At the first hint of spring warmth the birch tree, affectionately called ‘the Lady of the Woods’, adorns her monochrome winter mantle with the verdant, vibrant green of fresh new leaves, while at her feet spring clusters of wood anemone and dog violet.

As the woodland path ascends toward the viewpoint, natural breaks in the birch canopy offer tantalising glimpses of a panorama that gradually unfurls, to reveal a magnificent overview of the Cairngorm plateau encompassing much of the western part of the Cairngorms National Park and Strath Spey. The imposing crag, ‘Creag Eileachaidh’ for which the Reserve is named, was once a traditional vantage point for Clan Grant, and still provides security for the resident breeding peregrines. Visitors may be rewarded with a spectacular aerial display if they are lucky enough to see the falcons on the wing.

Craigellachie is one of more than 45 NNRs in Scotland. Scotland’s NNRs are special places for nature, where some of the best examples of Scotland’s wildlife are managed. Every Reserve is carefully managed both for nature and for people, giving visitors the opportunity to experience our rich natural heritage.

1 The nine Cairngorms NNRs include: Abernethy NNR, Corrie Fee NNR, Creag Meagaidh NNR (just outwith the Park), Craigellachie NNR, Glen Tanar NNR, Glenmore NNR, Insh Marshes NNR, Invereshie & Inshriach NNR and Muir of Dinnet NNR. The Story of Craigellachie National Nature Reserve

The Story of Craigellachie National Nature Reserve contains background information about the Reserve, describing the wildlife interest, its land use history and management since it became a Reserve. How we intend to manage the Reserve in future years is outlined in the Reserve Proposals. We invite your comments on these Proposals and your feedback informs the production of the final Reserve Plan, which is the blueprint for management of the Reserve for the next few years.

For further information about Craigellachie National Nature Reserve please contact: Scottish Natural Heritage, Achantoul, Aviemore, Inverness-shire, PH22 1QD. Telephone: 01479 810477 Fax: 01479 811363 E-mail: [email protected]

ii The Story of Craigellachie National Nature Reserve

Contents

Foreword i Contents iii Maps of Craigellachie NNR iv 1 Introduction to Craigellachie NNR 1 2 The Natural Heritage of Craigellachie NNR 4 3 Management before the land became Craigellachie NNR 8 4 Management of Craigellachie NNR 9 5 Document properties 15

iii The Story of Craigellachie National Nature Reserve

Maps of Craigellachie NNR

Location Map

Boundaries of Craigellachie NNR

iv The Story of Craigellachie National Nature Reserve

Map showing key locations at Craigellachie NNR

v The Story of Craigellachie National Nature Reserve

1 Introduction to Craigellachie NNR

Craigellachie NNR is on the western edge of the village of Aviemore in the Central Highlands of Scotland, some 53 kilometres (km) south of Inverness. The Reserve occupies the east facing, lower slopes of the Monadhliath Mountains overlooking the River Spey. It stretches for 2km northwards on the western side of the A9 opposite Aviemore and covers an area of 257 hectares (ha).

The Reserve rises from an altitude of 225 metres (m) just above the A9 to 535m at Creag na h-Iolaire on the western boundary. To the north it is bounded by the Caledonian pinewoods and grouse moors of the Reidhaven Estate which is part of the Seafield Estate, and to the south by the grouse moors and deer forest of Kinrara Estate.

Like much of the Cairngorms, the rock types on the Reserve are mainly metamorphosed gneisses and schists with extensive granite intrusions. The rocks are all acidic, resistant to weathering and erosion and the overlying soils being acidic are poor in nutrients.

The Cairngorms are relatively shielded from the westerly maritime air flow by the western mountain ranges, and experience a more continental climate. This is characterised by more severe winters and relatively low rainfall. Average monthly temperatures range from 5°C in December to 19°C in July, with a lower and upper range of minus 25°C and plus 31°C. The east facing aspect of the Reserve means that for most of the year the Reserve lies in deep shade.

The climate, aspect and soil conditions all influence the habitats found on the Reserve which are incredibly varied for such a small area. The Reserve is dominated by the birch woodland which extends up to 370m and clings on to the south and east facing crags and slopes. On the higher ground dry and wet heaths and blanket bogs have developed which together with three lochans add to the diversity of the habitats found on the Reserve.

The variety of habitats provides a home for a correspondingly diverse View over Craigellachie NNR to Aviemore

1 The Story of Craigellachie National Nature Reserve range of species. Craigellachie supports a rich diversity of northern moths which include the nationally scarce Kentish glory. Peregrine falcon breed on the crags and the trees and rocks support a variety of lichens and mosses.

Craigellachie features prominently in local culture and the Clan Grant symbology. The clan arms show an image of a burning hill which is ‘Craig Elachie’ - the rallying point for the clan. The summit of the crags was the site of signal fires to bring clan members together. The clan slogan is ‘Stand fast Caig Elachie!’

Craigellachie was first declared an NNR in 1961. The Reserve is owned by Reidhaven Estate and managed by Scottish Natural Heritage (SNH) through a lease.

Craigellachie has been designated for its wildlife interest at a UK level. It forms part of the larger Craigellachie Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI) and is nationally important for the upland birch woodland and its moth assemblage. The Reserve is one of a suite of NNRs that lie within the Cairngorms National Park and also falls within the Cairngorms National Scenic Area (NSA). Further information on these designations can be found via the links at the end of this document.

Table 1: Designated features & species of interest for Craigellachie NNR

Designation Site of Special Species Scientific Interest Site name Craigellachie UK BAP RDB Special visitor interest Habitat 9 Upland birch woodland Species Moth 9 assemblage: Kentish glory1 9 Rannoch 9 sprawler1 Angle striped 9 sallow1 Scarce 9 prominent1 Great brocade1 9 Cousin German1 9 9 Pearl-bordered 9 Fritillary

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Designation Site of Special Species Scientific Interest Site name Craigellachie UK BAP RDB Special visitor interest Peregrine 9 Tree pipit 9 Lesser redpoll 9 Common cuckoo 9 Spotted 9 flycatcher Wood warbler 9 Bullfinch 9 Song thrush 9 Ring ouzel 9 Scottish crossbill 9 Black grouse 9 Red grouse 9 Juniper 9

UK BAP – UK Biodiversity Action Plan; RDB – Red Data Book; 1 species identified as part of the moth assemblage

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2 The Natural Heritage of Craigellachie NNR

Geology

There are two main rock types present on the Reserve: gneisses and schists. These were deposited as muds and sands in Precambrian times (600 million years ago or more), and changed by heat and pressure to metamorphic rocks during the Caledonian orogeny (435 – 500 million years ago). The highest ground on the Reserve is granite which was intruded into the surrounding rock 425 – 395 million years ago.

Habitats

Woodland

Craigellachie is one of the largest semi-natural upland birch woods in Strathspey and is important for the diversity of its animals and plants found in north east Scotland.

Birch was one of the first broad-leafed trees to appear after the ice Upland birch woodland retreated, about 10,000 years ago. Craigellachie’s woodland is typical of many Highland birchwoods, occupying a steep valley side where brown earth soils have developed on shallow, rocky material derived from glacial deposits and acid bedrock.

Craigellachie has a history of non-intervention and is an example of a long-established woodland of semi-natural origin, having arisen before 1750. Many of the trees on the Reserve are about 100 years old, exhibiting a uniform age structure with large stands of mature, even-aged trees with an open canopy. The birch woods consist almost entirely of silver birch which tends to be associated with the drier soils and some downy birch, a tree of poorly drained and frequently peaty sites.

Other broadleaves also occur on the Reserve including aspen, rowan, hazel, bird cherry, eared and grey willows. Scots pine and juniper are also scattered across the Reserve.

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Open habitats

Throughout the woodland and out onto the hill top there is a good mix of small but locally important open habitats. On the hill top these include areas of dry heath with bearberry, wet heath and blanket bog. Within the woodland there are open glades, wet flushes and running and standing freshwater habitats. There are three areas of open water on the Reserve – Loch Puladdern, Lochan Dubh and the old reservoir.

Fauna and Flora

Invertebrates

The Reserve is a haven for invertebrates and has a nationally important assemblage of moths. This includes 13 UK BAP species and the nationally scarce Kentish glory moth. Other local northern moth species include the Rannoch sprawler, angle-striped sallow and scarce prominent. The larval stage of all Kentish glory moth these moths feed on birch with Kentish glory and Rannoch sprawler being particularly partial to young birch saplings.

Bog myrtle and willow also provides a food source for great brocade and on the open ground, netted mountain moth can be found on the bearberry heath.

Woodland butterflies include locally common species such as orange tip and scotch argus while pearl bordered fritillary, a UK BAP butterfly is also in abundance on warm summers days.

Dragonflies and damselflies can be seen hawking around the lochans and wet woodland between May and September. The black darter is the most frequently encountered along the trail paths but species like Highland darter and northern emerald are also present along with the magnificent golden ringed dragonfly.

The wet flushes and old birch woodland with their associated fungi support a further eight RDB species of flies and beetles which are vulnerable or rare. Three of these species are indicators of ancient woodland.

Birds

Around 50 different species of birds are present on the Reserve and these include 11 UK BAP species; song thrush, bullfinch, spotted flycatcher, tree pipit, lesser redpoll,

5 The Story of Craigellachie National Nature Reserve cuckoo, wood warbler and occasionally crossbills in the woodland, and red grouse, black grouse and ring ouzel on the open ground and woodland edge.

The Reserve is locally well known for the pair of peregrine falcons nesting on the crags.

Mammals

Red deer are the largest of the mammals to be found on the Reserve with hinds and calves occasionally seen on the high ground above the trees. Stags can also be heard roaring in the autumn. Roe deer are glimpsed occasionally during the day among the more open areas where they are attracted to shrubs and grassy lawns. The enigmatic pine marten has been reported occasionally, and pipistrelle bats fly amongst the birch during summer evenings in pursuit of moths and midges.

Reptiles, Amphibians and Fish

The common lizard and slow worm are the only reptiles found on the Reserve. Amphibians include common frog, common toad and palmate newt.

Loch Puladdern and the old reservoir contain brown trout, the increasingly rare three spined sticklebacks and minnows.

Flora

Flowering Plants

A range of habitats support distinctive plant communities associated with the woodland floor, dry and wet heaths, blanket bogs, wet flushes, shaded areas, rocks and boulders, freshwater streams and lochans. Over 385 types of flowering plants have been recorded on the Reserve, including dwarf birch, least water lily, serrated wintergreen, and bog hair-grass, all of which are nationally scarce.

Fungi and lower plants

The micro-landscapes of tree stumps, rot holes, sunny glades, shaded boulders and the woodland floor provide perfect niches for a variety of lichens, mosses, liverworts and fungi. Some, lichens in particular, act as good indicators of relatively undisturbed woodland in north-east Scotland. Over 22 different species Lichens and mosses

6 The Story of Craigellachie National Nature Reserve of lichens occur on the Reserve. Fungi are also numerous with 71 species named; a significant number of which are specifically associated with birch.

Summary

Craigellachie National Nature Reserve is one of the largest remaining upland birch woods of semi-natural origin in Strathspey. Situated on the eastern side of the Monadhliath Mountains the area experiences a continental type of climate with low mean temperatures and moderate rainfall. These damp and sheltered conditions have favoured the development of birch-dominated woodland with diverse animal and plant communities. Many species of moth thrive on the Reserve.

Craigellachie National Nature Reserve

7 The Story of Craigellachie National Nature Reserve

3 Management before the land became Craigellachie NNR

History of Craigellachie

Date Event Undated A line of 3 pits persist on the upper edge of the birchwood (found by Ann Wakeling in 1995). Neolithic 15 cairns averaging 4.5m in diameter and covering an area of 50m by 75m were erected (discovered by Ann Wakeling in 1995). North Britons It is likely that oak and pine were felled heavily in the 18th century and Jacobites to satisfy the ship building industry, pipe boring and charcoal 1714 - 1836 production. Oak bark was also harvested for tanning. mid 19th century The reservoir was built to provide a water supply for the new railway junction, hotel and houses in Aviemore. 1954 The rock and birchwoods of Craigellachie were first discussed as being worthy of NNR designation.

There is very little documented history about Craigellachie before it became an NNR. The first noted presence of ‘birks’ was in 1750 by General Roy, one of the first of the map makers to have passed this way. Lady Elizabeth Grant also referred to woodland here, in her ‘Memoirs of a Highland Lady’ in 1898.

So far, there have been no significant archaeological remains found, and no dwellings or signs of cultivation. Craigellachie does have a long history of grazing both by domestic and wild animals particularly cattle, sheep and deer.

Muirburn was also carried out on the open hill ground suggesting that this was used as a grouse moor sometime prior to becoming a Reserve.

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4 Management of Craigellachie NNR

Key events in the history of Craigellachie since it became a NNR are as follows:

Date Event 1960 Craigellachie is declared a National Nature Reserve on 25th January. 1960 Cattle are removed from Reserve. 1961 Craigellachie is designated a SSSI. 1961 The first management plan for the Reserve is completed. 1962 The reservoir is replaced by an underground storage tank fed by water from Loch Einich. 1982 About 300 wintering sheep were removed from the Reserve and domestic grazing ceases. 1983 The nature reserve lease with the Estate is renewed for a further 21 years. 1987 Craigellachie SSSI is re-notified under the 1981 Wildlife and Countryside Act. 1988 The Reserve is re-declared under 1982 Act. 1997 Craigellachie NNR Education Pack is produced. 2004 A new 25 year lease is agreed with Estate.

2007 A new 1,000m tree transect is established. 2007 Craigellachie becomes one of the first NNRs to pilot a Mobitour. 2008 The viewpoint path is upgraded and re-surfaced. 2009 Four footpath trails are established, including an all abilities path with perches around Loch Pulladern. 2010 New threshold signs and interpretive panels are installed at the Reserve entrance. 2010 The Mobitour is upgraded to include information points on all four trails. 2010 Geocache established.

Management of the Natural Heritage

The first management plan for the Reserve was completed in 1961 with three main aims: conservation, research and estate management. Actions to retain and enhance the semi-natural woodland were key to the conservation management with research into geology, soils, plants and animals providing the backbone to understanding the ways in which the Reserve ‘ticked’. A small team of wardens were responsible for carrying out surveys and monitoring, environmental education as well as estate work

9 The Story of Craigellachie National Nature Reserve including path maintenance, implementation of fire risk management, risk assessments, deer stalking and the control of pests in co-operation with the estate staff.

Subsequent management plans were written in 1991, 1995 and 1998, each building on the original management aims but also, increasingly encouraging public access, recreation and educational use.

Woodland regeneration

Our focus for enhancing the woodlands has been through encouraging the natural regeneration of a range of native trees. When the Reserve was established heavy grazing by wild and domestic animals had suppressed much of the natural regeneration and the woodland was not expanding. We removed cattle from the Reserve straight away but sheep were not fully removed from the Reserve until 1982.

In addition, deer were also grazing the woodland and with concerns that they would also prevent regeneration our early management options considered deer fencing the whole Reserve. We realised however that with this approach subsequent regeneration would adopt an artificial, geometric Birch woodland result, reflecting the shape of the fenced area. As well as this fundamental shortcoming, any regrowth outside the fence was, in the absence of heavy deer control, susceptible to increased grazing whilst the area within the exclosure often developed very dense thickets of birch regeneration. Further difficulties with terrain, inclement weather, obstruction to the general public and mortal injury to game birds as well as landscape intrusion, made fencing the whole boundary something of a last resort at Craigellachie for conservation management.

By default though, much of the Reserve is fenced. The north east boundary with Reidhaven Estate was fenced approximately 40 years ago when a Scots pine plantation was established and the higher ground was entered into the Native Pinewood Scheme. The boundary to the south and west remained porous to sheep until 1999/2000 when Kinrara Estate entered into a Woodland Grant Scheme erecting a fence around the scheme. A further sheep fence was erected in 2009 by Kinrara which effectively has now stopped all sheep access to the Reserve.

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The north west boundary of the Reserve however remains open and allows the passage of deer seeking shelter in poor weather. Throughout the life time of the Reserve, deer numbers have been controlled in co-operation with Reidhaven Estate. In 1987, we set up transects through the woodland to measure regeneration success. Ten years later (1997), our monitoring from the transects showed that the amount and distribution of native tree regeneration was still being limited by deer grazing and, that native trees other than birch were not readily regenerating outside the exclosure. The birch regeneration was also patchy though formed dense thickets of growth on the margins of the older growth woodlands.

In 2007, a new tree regeneration transect was established from the edge of the birch woodland up onto the higher ground. We use this transect to monitor tree regeneration in the presence of deer and to set cull targets.

Research

The Reserve has been well used by many enthusiasts and specialist entomologists. Their work has done much to raise the awareness of the richness of the invertebrate fauna on the Reserve.

Management for people

The number of visitors enjoying Craigellachie has fluctuated over the years. Right on the fringes of Aviemore, the Reserve has always been popular with tourists and locals alike. The construction of the A9 in the early 1980’s, bypassing Aviemore and cutting off the Reserve caused a significant decrease in visitors for a while, as the only means of access to the Reserve was by crossing a hazardous road. With the completion of the underpass at the south end of the Reserve and the national raising of public awareness on NNRs, visitor numbers have increased again to approximately 8500 per annum.

The underpass provides the only safe access to the Reserve now and can be reached from the Aviemore Highland Resort car park or via a way-marked path from the Youth Hostel car park near the Catholic church.

In 2007 an interpretive firm, attending a conference in Aviemore, asked if an interpretive facility called a ‘Mobitour’ could New threshold signs & start of mobi-tour be trialled on the Reserve. This

11 The Story of Craigellachie National Nature Reserve facility involved the establishment of fixed points throughout the path network where visitors could stop and phone to receive information pertinent to that location within the Reserve. The system proved popular with visitors, so we subsequently adopted and upgraded the tour with information points now on all four of the way-marked trails.

Over recent years, we have made significant improvements to the visitor facilities on the Reserve. During 2008 - 2010, we installed new signage and orientation promoting four named paths, the viewpoint trail was upgraded and re-surfaced and, the lochans trail was upgraded to an all abilities path.

In 2010, we also established a geocache inviting visitors to use Geographical Positioning System (GPS) information to locate the cache and retrieve information about the Reserve.

The Reserve has been used in the past as a valuable wildlife resource for local schools. In 1997 we distributed an environmental education resource pack for teachers of primary school children to promote the use of Craigellachie NNR. The lack of toilets, shelter and parking facilities however means that the Reserve is not ideal for young school children, especially when there are other reserves within the National Park that can fulfil the whole requirements.

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Map showing current visitor facilities at Craigellachie NNR

13 The Story of Craigellachie National Nature Reserve

Property Management

Reidhaven Estate owns Craigellachie NNR. The Reserve is managed by SNH through a 25 year lease which we re-negotiated in 2004. We are responsible for deer control on the Reserve and set the cull levels each year in consultation with the Estate. The Estate retains the right to undertake ‘sport shooting’ in addition to controlling pest species, provided such action doesn't prejudice the nature conservation objectives for the Reserve.

The reservoir is the responsibility of Scottish Water who have a right of access to carry out any necessary maintenance to the underground reservoir and associated infrastructure. SNH shares responsibility for the maintenance of the three boundary fences with the two neighbouring Estates.

There is no built property on the Reserve apart from the water tank which is the responsibility of Scottish Water.

Site inspections of the Reserve’s infrastructure (paths and signage) are carried out at quarterly intervals.

The staffing for this Reserve has varied over Upland path stone pitching the years. There are no dedicated staff on the Reserve and currently, the Reserve Manager is also responsible for another 6 NNRs in the National Park and beyond. Reserve staff from Creag Meagaidh NNR carry out essential estate work and deer management on the Reserve.

As a responsible land manager, SNH achieves a number of routine projects such as updating the Fire Plan, Health and Safety audits, all abilities access audits and carrying out risk assessments for all activities on the NNR.

Summary

Craigellachie National Nature Reserve is a tremendous asset to the village of Aviemore providing accessible woodland trails within a ten minutes walk of the village centre. Craigellachie rock is part of the identity of the village of Aviemore and does much to define its place within Strathspey and its long history.

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5 Document properties

Acknowledgements

The Story of Craigellachie National Nature Reserve has been written by Dave Carstairs, edited by Emma Philip (Designated Sites Officer – NNR team) and approved by George Hogg (Area Manager – South Highland).

We would like to thank the following SNH staff for their contribution and comments on earlier drafts: Peter Duncan (SNH Reserves Manager – South Highland), Chris Donald (Operations Manager – South Highland), Anne Elliott and Sue Scoggins (Operations Officers – South Highland), Jeanette Hall (Woodlands Policy & Advise Officer) and Susi Hodgson (Corporate Services Officer).

Photographs

Photography by Lorne Gill/SNH, David Gowans/SNH and Peter Duncan

Links

Scottish Natural Heritage www.snh.gov.uk SNH Sitelink www.snh.org.uk/snhi/ Joint Nature Conservation Committee www.jncc.gov.uk Cairngorms National Park www.cairngorms.co.uk Scotland’s National Nature Reserves www.nnr-scotland.org.uk

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