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MUSEUM M U E S U M

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RAIL TRAVEL RAIL

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MARKETS

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charity founded by John and Elizabeth Butler. Butler. Elizabeth and John by founded charity The Meeting House was altered many times over over times many altered was House Meeting The

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TOILETS TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE INFORMATION TOURIST

A SHORT HISTORY OF SAFFRON WALDEN

ForFor theth e fourfou r hundredh u ndred yearsyears ofof theth e RRomanoman eerara tthereh ere wwasas nneverev er mmoreore t hthanana as msmallall s esettlementttlement i nin whatwh a ttheth e laterlater SaxonSaxon inhabitantsinh abitants calledcalled "“weala-denu”weala-denu " ((“Valley"Valley ooff ththee BBritons”)ritons") a andnd w wee n onoww callcal lSaffronSaffron Walden.Walden .However,Byth e w byrit itheng otimef th etheD oDoomsdaymesdayB oBookok in was1 0 8 written6 , h ow einv e1086,r, th e rtheree wa swasa a village of about 120 households. SAFFRON WALDEN v illag e of abou t 1 2 0 h ou seh olds. InIn theth e 1130s1 1 3 0 s andand 1140s1 1 4 0 s theth e NNormanorman LLordord ooff ttheh e MManoranor GGeoffreyeoffrey ddee M Mandevilleandev ille 3 3rdrd E Earlarl o fof EssexEssex diddid threeth ree thingsth ing s thatth at lleded ttoo WWaldenalden bbecomingecoming ttheh e eeconomicconomic a andnd a dadministrativeministrativ e c ecentrentre ofof theth e area;area; heh e builtbu ilt theth e ccastle,astle, mmovedov ed ttheh e mmarketark et ffromrom NNewportewport a andnd f ofoundedu nded a aB Benedictineenedictine TOWN TRAIL Priory.Priory .TheTh e castlecastle keepk eep ruinsru ins cancan bbee sseeneen ttodayoday aandnd ttheh e mmarketark et isiss stilltill h heldeld o onnT Tuesdaysu esdays a nandd Saturdays.Satu rdays .TheTh e PrioryPriory becamebecame WaldenWalden AAbbeybbey iinn 11190;1 9 0 ; ititw wasas g giveniv ent otoS iSirr T hThomasomas A Audleyu dleyi nin 15381 5 3 8 duringdu ring theth e dissolutiondissolu tion ofo ftheth e monasteries,monasteries ,andand heh eusedu se diti ttot ocreatecreat eAudleyAu dle yEndEn dHouse.Hou se.

InIn theth e 1230s1 2 3 0 s theth e EarlsEarls ofof EEssex,ssex, nnowow ddee BBohuns,oh u ns, ssetet ooutu t a an newew a ambitiousmbitiou s t otownwnp planlani nincludingclu ding somesome earlierearlier elementselements withwith a ggridrid ssystemystem ooff sstreets,treets, aa nnewew mmarketark et pplacelace a andnd a an newew c hchurch.u rch . TheseTh ese elementselements cancan stillstill bebe seenseen iinn ttheh e ttownown ccentreentre ttoday.oday. BByy ththee l alatete 1 1300s3 0 0 s t hthee a rareaea a raroundou nd WaldenWalden hadh ad begunbeg u n toto growg row theth e ssaffronaffron ccrocusrocu s aandnd bbyy ttheh e eearlyarly 11500s5 0 0 s wwasas t hthee c centreentre o off t hthee saffronsaffron industryindu stry inin thisth is country.cou ntry. SSuchu ch wwasas iitsts iimportancemportance tthath at ttheh e totownwna adopteddopted t hthee n nameame o fof SaffronSaffron WaldenWalden andand itsits legacyleg acy i iss r refectedeflected i inn t theh e w wealthealth o off ti timber-framedmber-framed b buildingsu ilding s o off t h thisis timetime andand theth e largestlarg es tparishparish churchch u rch inin Essex,Essex ,completedcompleted inin 1525.1 5 2 5 .

SaffronSaffron WaldenWalden hash as aa majormajor placeplace iinn ttheh e eevolutionv olu tion ooff ddemocracyemocracy iinn ththisis c country.ou ntry. I nInt hthee s pspringring ofof 16471 6 4 7 withwith oneone civilciv il warwar won,won, ttheh e NNewew MModelodel AArmyrmy uundernder SSirir TThomash omas F Fairfaxairfaxs psplitlit w withith ParliamentParliament andand waswas orderedordered notnot toto aapproachpproach LLondon.ondon. FFairfaxairfax ssettledettled o onnS SaffronaffronW Waldenaldena sash hisis headquartersh eadqu arters andand billetedbilleted hish is soldierssoldiers iinn ttheh e aarea.rea. DDebatesebates wwereere h heldeld i nint hthee p parisharish c churchh u rch w whereh ere forfor theth e frstfirst timetime everev er ordinaryordinary soldierssoldiers eelectedlected rrepresentativesepresentativ es ttoo sspeakpeak fforor t hthem.em. E Eventuallyv entu ally evenev en OliverOliv er CromwellCromwell MPMP waswas persuadedpersu aded toto throwth row inin hish is llotot wwithith ttheh e NNewew MModelodel AArmy.rmy.

ThereTh e d waseclin littlee of tdevelopmenth e saffronin ordu sexpansiontry inth e ofse vtheen ttowneenth inan thed e i17thg h te eandnth 18thcentu centuriesry led to duelittl eto thedev declineelopme noft other e xsaffronpansion industry.inth e to wHowever,n. Th ere wthereere f ewasw n esomew h o urefacingses bu il tofat oldth is houses,time bu tandsom thee Georgianrefacing oTownf old Hallh ou s ewass an builtd a n inew theG e1760s.org iantownh all bu ilt inth e 1 7 6 0 s. Prosperity retu rned inth e nineteenth centu ry with th e g rowth of th e malting and brewing Prosperity returned in the nineteenth century with the growth of the malting and brewing indu stries and with farming still at th e centre of th e area's economy. Th e Gibsons, wh owere industries and with farming still at the centre of the area’s economy. The Gibsons, who were bank ers and brewers, were one of th e wealth iest families inth e town. Th eywere Qu ak ers and bankers and brewers, were one of the wealthiest families in the town. They were Quakers and greatg reat philanthropistsph ilanth ropists andand werewere involvedinv olv ed i inn t theh e f foundingou nding o off th thee m museum,u seu m, th thee li library,brary, t h thee hospital,h ospital , theth e transfertransfer ofof theth e F Friends’riends’ S Schoolch ool t too t theh e t townown f fromrom C Croydon,roydon, d diggingig g ing w wellsells a n andd eventuallyev entu ally bringingbring ing theth e branchbranch lineline o off t theh e r railwayailway i inn 1 1865.8 6 5 . T Theh e V Victorianictorian p prosperityrosperity is is refectedreflected inin buildingsbu ilding s aroundarou nd theth e MarketMark e tSquareSqu ar eandand tot otheth esouthsou t hofo ftheth etown.town. Ch ang es inth e twentieth centu ryh av e inclu ded th e demise of th e branch line of th e railway Changesin1 9 6 4 , inth ethest otwentiethpping of andth e twenty-frstreg u lar liv e scenturiestock mar khaveets, includedlarg e mo dtheern demiseh ou sin ofg dtheev ebranchlopme nlinets ofon theth e railwayou tsk irt sina n1964,d latt etherly istoppingnfill dev eoflo ptheme nregularts inth elivestocktownce nmarkets,tre. Saff rlargeonW amodernldentod housingayh as Illustrated map developmentsa popu lationo onf s o theme 1 outskirts5 ,0 0 0 pe o andple latterlyand is w infllidely developmentsrecog nised as a ins a thefe, h townealth y centre.place t Saffronoliv e Walden has a growing population of 15,000 people and is widely recognised as a safe, healthy with ineasyreach of Londonand Cambridg e. Guide to places of interest place to live within easy reach of London and Cambridge.

A Saffro n Walden In itiative Pro ject Short historyof Saffron Walden

Fu nded by www.visitsaffronwalden.gov.ukwww.visitsaffronwalde nInstagram:.g ov.uk /swtic wwww.facebook.com/saffronwaldenww.facebook.com/saffronwalden Twitter:Twitter: @swtic@swtic SWI_TRAIL_FINAL_2015_Final:SWI_TRAIL_FINAL_2013 15/12/15 23:53 Page 2

1 0 . The Rows 1 . Market Place 2 . The Old Sun Inn At th e start of th e Rows, onth e corner of King Th e mark et is still h eld h ere onTu esdays and Th e crossroads at wh ich th e Old Su nInn Street and Cross Street stands a larg e late Satu rdays as it h as beensince th e th irteenth stands h as timber framed bu ilding s onall fifteenth centu ryh all h ou se (pictu red). Th e centu ry. Th e Mark et Place is dominated by fou r corners. Th e Old Su nInnis a rang e of h ou se sh ows clearlyh ow larg e h ou ses were Victorianbu ilding s. Barclays Bank was desig ned Grade I listed h omes and sh ops dating from div ided intoth ree different elements with th e byEdenNesfield as a bank for Gibson& Co. in th e fou rteenth centu rywith manydifferent openh all sectionh av ing its roof raised inth e 1 8 7 4 . Th e stone porticoand timber framed types of decorativ e plaster work called eig h teenth centu ry. Th e Rows were th e additions toth e Georg ianTownHall were ‘parg etting ’. Th ese inclu de incised repeat d town’s sh opping centre from mediev al times En desig ned byEdward Bu rg ess and were a g ift to patterns, some freeh and desig ns and later dg e onwards, with 3 3 of th e 4 6 sh ops inth e town Bri n th e townfrom Georg e StaceyGibsonin1 8 7 9 . bas-relief of birds and fru it, possiblydating rde sited th ere in1 6 3 0 . Th e sh ops started as Ga ze Th e Tou rist InformationCentre is h ou sed h ere. Ma to1 6 7 6 . Th e end g able (pictu red) sh ows mark et stalls and prog ressed tobecome permanent h ome and bu siness premises combined. Th e drink ing fou ntain(pictu red) was alsoa twofig u res and opinionis div ided as to C. OnCross Street are some of th e best preserv ed Tu dor sh opwindows wh ich h ad sh u tters th at W. g ift toth e townfrom th e Gibsonfamilyin wh eth er th eyare Tom Hick ath rift and Th e opened toprov ide a cou nter and a canopyov er th e g oods. 1 8 6 3 tocommemorate th e marriag e of Th e Prince of Wales to Wisbech Giant or Gog and Mag og . Princess Alexandra of Denmark . Th e Library, once Th e Corn Exch ang e, is of Italianate style desig ned byRich ard Tress and completed in1 8 4 8 . 9 . The Old Cross Keys Th e Cross Keys is a fifteenth 3 . Museum and Castle Ruins centu rytimber framed former Th e mu seu m collections are h ou sed h ou se and sh opwith later 6 B inone of th e oldest pu rpose bu ilt r additions. Th e roof was raised in i d mu seu m bu ilding s inth e cou ntry, g

e C th e earlynineteenth centu ryand M completed in1 8 3 5 . Its eth nog raph ic

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new windows added onth e g rou nd s t s collectionis of national importance. It

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e and first floors of th e King Street St u h as ev eryth ing from mammoth tu sk s tomu mmies, from anearly H stle m frontag e. Th e plaster onth e entire a i C l Tu dor bed toa natu ral h istoryg allery. WaldenCastle was bu ilt by

l timber framed sectionwas tak enoff 5 3 Geoffreyde Mandev ille 3 rd Earl of Essexinth e 1 1 3 0 s or 4 0 s. Th e k eepru ins of flint inth e earlytwentieth centu ryand some first floor windows reinstated. 7 S and mortar (pictu red) are all th at remains, bu t th e line of th e inner and ou ter bailey At th e corner of King Street and Hig h Street onth e g rou nd floor are t h elped create th e sh ape of th e towncentre today. Th e ru ins are Grade 1 listed.

twoof th e orig inal fifteenth centu rysh opwindows. C Ash o donR

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8 . Parish Church of St Marythe Virg in rch n Ch u H T 4 . Castle Street 2 M h

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Th e earliest featu res of th e larg est parish ch u rch inEssex l Co

l m SHORT + LONG STAY a mon date from 1 2 5 0 bu t th e majorityof th e ch u rch was rebu ilt r Th is street was part of th e new town CAR PARK k e planof th e 1 1 4 0 s bu t most of th e inth e Perpendicu lar style between1 4 7 0 and 1 5 2 5 . Th e t H Tu timber framed h all h ou ses now date ch u rch size reflects th e wealth of th e townat th e h eig h t i rf M l a l ze from arou nd 1 5 0 0 . Some of th e of th e saffrontrade. With th e additionof th e spire in 1 SHORT STAY 1 8 3 2 th e tower is 1 9 3 feet (5 9 m) h ig h . Th e interior of th e St CAR PARK h ou ses are Grade II* listed 9 King TIC ch u rch h as a wonderfu l org an properties with manyexamples of Park La 1 0 with spectacu lar Trompeta Real ne ancient and modernparg etting . Th ere are a nu mber of u nu su al pipes, nine mediev al brasses ows Th e R and some fine stained g lass t Wealdenh ou ses, th e easiest toidentify Hill S windows. Among th e St Ea is at No4 9 /5 1 (pictu red). Th is style of h all h ou se u nder a sing le roof Georg e st S W.C. SHORT STAY t is normallyassociated with Kent. Th e h ou se alsoh as sliding sash

monu ments are Lord Au dley’s H

F i CAR PARK

g windows wh ich are commonlyfou nd inSaffronWaldenh ou ses. By Belg ianslate tomb inth e sou th Abbey Lane a

h i r th e 1 8 0 0 s th is was th e poorer sectionof townwith manyof th e y ch apel and R.A.Bu tler’s S G

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t o r h ou ses div ided intosmall cottag es. Clear break s inth e memorial plaqu e, h is g rav e being l o N d f

t roof lines g iv e clu es as toth e extent of th e orig inal h ou ses. at th e east end of th e ch u rch yard. S 0 100 R

t www.stmaryssaffronwalden.org d Metres Listed bu ildings 5 . FryArt Galleryand Bridg e End Garden 7 . 1 , Myddylton Place and The Close Listed bu ildings mentioned TheTh e pathpath toto BridgeBridg e EndEnd GardenGarden passespasses theth e FryFry ArtArt GalleryGallery which was built in 1856wh ich byw aFranciss bu ilt iGibsonn1 8 5 6 toby holdFran hiscis personalGibsont oarth ocollection.ld h is

D 1 , MyddyltonPlace (pictu red) is Grade I listed and is one of R 6 . The Eig ht Bells Itpe wasrson thenal ar tinheritedcollectio byn. Ihist w adaughters th enin hElizabetherited by Fryh is A th e finest mediev al bu ilding s inth e town. It was bu ilt as a W Sincedau g h t1987er El iitz ahasbet hhousedFry. S ain ccollectione 1 9 8 7 it hofa sthe I

N combined sh op, h ome and wareh ou se inth e 1 4 9 0 s. Th e Eig h t Bells is one of th e 2 7 Grade II* listed G worksh ou sed ofa thecol lGreatection Bardfeldof th e wo grouprk s of ofth eartists S Th ere is a fine doorwayintoBridg e Street and a bu ilding s inSaffronWaldenand is anamalg am of © whoGrea tsettledBardf iinel dtheg r Essexou po fcountrysideartists wh o inse tthetled M carv ed drag onpost onth e corner. Th e sack h oist different elements. Th e rang e at rig h t ang les toth e E 1930s.inth e E Startedssexco byu n thisrys ifather,de int ith e was1 9 3 Francis0 s. G inth e roof was added inth e earlynineteenth road is fifteenth centu rywh ile th e street frontag e is a A

N Gibson who expanded Bridge End Garden centu rywh enpart of th e bu ilding was late sixteenth centu ryadditionwh ich featu res a continu ou s Started byh is fath er, it was Francis Gibson R

I introducingwh oexpand ae dDutchBridg garden,e End G rosearde garden,nintrod kitchenu cing D conv erted toa malting . Diag onallyacross first floor jettyor ov ersailing dev eloped tocreate big g er rooms on G

E garden,a Du tch wildernessg arden, ro sarea,e g ar hedgeden, k imazetch en andg ar dae lovelyn,

W th e road from MyddyltonPlace stands th is floor. It h as a fine carv ed bressu mer beam wh ich is th e exposed h orizontal beam th at su pports

E southwilde rfacingness a rlawnea, h ewithdg e am summerhouseaze and a lov e (pictured).lysou th fa cing L Th e Close, a fine late fifteenth centu rytimber th e u pper floor. Th e bu ilding is one of th e few bu ilding s inth e townwith both first and g rou nd L The garden has now been restored with help from framed h ou se with later additions inclu ding anu nu su al floor windows inth eir orig inal positions. Th e memorial onth e bridg e ov er th e Madg ate Slade to lawnwith a su mmerh ou se (pictu red). Th e g arden the Heritage Lottery Fund. Bridge End Garden was sev enteenth centu ry‘Spider’ window. Ch ief Constable Campling commemorates h is mu rder after h e left th e Eig h t Bells pu b one nig h t - h as now beenrestored with h elpfrom th e Heritag e h is alleg ed assailant was fou nd not g u iltyat trial. commendedLotteryFu nd in. the 2018 UK Heritage Awards as a “Hidden Gem”. www.fryartgallery.org