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Comparison of Subjective Evaluation and Objective Laboratory Measurement of the Property of Hand in Textile Fabrics

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Comparison of Subjective Evaluation and Objective Laboratory Measurement of the Property of Hand in Textile Fabrics INFORMATION TO USERS This material was produced from a microfilm copy of the original document. While the most advanced technological means to photograph and reproduce this document have been used, the quality is heavily dependent upon the quality of the original submitted. The following explanation of techniques is provided to help you understand markings or patterns which may appear on this reproduction. 1.The sign or "target" for pages apparently lacking from the document photographed is "Missing Page(s)". If it was possible to obtain the missing page(s) or section, they are spliced into the film along with adjacent pages. This may have necessitated cutting thru an image and duplicating adjacent pages to insure you complete continuity. 2. When an image on the film is obliterated with a large round black mark, it is an indication that the photographer suspected that the copy may have moved during exposure and thus cause a blurred image. You will find a good image of the page in the adjacent frame. 3. When a map, drawing or chart, etc., was part of the material being photographed the photographer followed a definite method in "sectioning" the material. It is customary to begin photoing at the upper left hand corner of a large sheet and to continue photoing from left to right in equal sections with a small overlap. If necessary, sectioning is continued again — beginning below the first row and continuing on until complete. 4. The majority of users indicate that the textual content is of greatest value, however, a somewhat higher quality reproduction could be made from "photographs" if essential to the understanding of the dissertation. Silver prints of "photographs" may be ordered at additional charge by writing the Order Department, giving the catalog number, title, author and specific pages you wish reproduced. 5. PLEASE NOTE: Some pages may have indistinct print. Filmed as received. Xerox University Microfilms 300 North Zeeb Road Ann Arbor, Michigan 48106 73-26,400 JARRELLE, Audrey Lee, 1943- CCMPARISON OF SUBJECTIVE EVALUATION AND OBJECTIVE LABORATORY MEASUREMENT OF THE PROPERTY OF HAND IN TEXTILE FABRICS. University of North Carolina at Greensboro, Ph.D., 1973 Home Economics University Microfilms, A XEROX Company, Ann Arbor, Michigan <g) 1973 AUDREY LIB JAJWKLLK ALL RIGHTS RESERVED COMPARISON OF SUBJECTIVE EVALUATION AND OBJECTIVE LABORATORY MEASUREMENT OF THE PROPERTY OF HAND IN TEXTILE FABRICS by Audrey Lee Jarrelle A Thesis Submitted to the Faculty of the Graduate School at The University of North Carolina at Greensboro in Partial Fulfillment of the Requirements for the Degree Doctor of Philosophy Greensboro 1973 Approved by Thesis Adviser APPROVAL PAGE This dissertation has been approved by the following committee of the Faculty of the Graduate School at The University of North Carolina at Greensboro. Dissertation Adviser Oral Examination Committee Members Date of lamination ii JARRELLE, AUDREY LEE. Comparison of Subjective Evaluation and Objective Laboratory Measurement of the Property of Hand in Textile Fabrics. (1973) Directed by: Dr. Pauline E. Keeney. Pp. 110 This research was undertaken to determine the importance of the aesthetic property of hand to consumers and to relate the subjective evaluation of fabric hand to objective laboratory measurement of the same property. Data for this study were obtained by subjective evalua­ tion and by objective laboratory measurement of fifteen white fabrics (S) including felt, Pellon®, tricot, doubleknit, broadcloth, georgette, organza, casement cloth, satin, flannelette, chintz, melton, corduroy, velvet, and terrycloth. Properties of hand evaluated subjectively and objectively included flexibility, compressibility, extensibility, resil­ ience, weight, thickness, surface contour, surface friction, and thermal character. Fifty consumers evaluated subjectively the hand of the selected fabrics. Subjective data were obtained from a consumer opinion ques­ tionnaire and from ratings of terminology used by consumers in describ­ ing the hand of the fabrics. A series of standard laboratory procedures were used to measure objectively the hand of the fifteen fabrics includ­ ing (1) ASTM D-1388-64, Stiffness of Fabrics, (2) ASTM D-1682-64, Breaking Load and Elongation of Textiles, (3) ASTM D-1295-67, Wrinkle Recovery of Woven Textile Fabrics Using the Vertical Strip Apparatus, (4) ASTM D-1910-64, Construction Characteristics of Woven Fabrics, (5) ASTM D-1777-64, Measuring Thickness of Textile Materials, (6) Instruction Manual, Thwing-Albert Handle-O-Meter. An analysis of variance was used to determine statistically sig­ nificant differences in hand of fabrics as subjectively evaluated by visual, tactile, and visual/tactile examination and to determine sig­ nificant differences in hand of fabrics as measured by laboratory tests. Correlation coefficients between the subjective evaluation and laboratory measurement of fabric hand were obtained using Spear­ man's Rank Correlation Coefficient. Findings were considered signif­ icant at the .05 level. The results of this study indicated that the property of hand was an important consideration to consumers of textile products, in­ cluding textiles for apparel and for decorative purposes. Those properties of hand which were considered important by consumers of this study, as expressed by terminology used, included flexibility, compressibility, extensibility, resilience, weight, thickness, surface contour, surface friction, and thermal character. Results also indi­ cated that consumers were able to Identify, differentiate, and evaluate properties of hand by using a combination of visual and tactile means. There were significant differences in the hand of the fifteen fabrics as evaluated subjectively by visual, tactile and a combination of visual and tactile means. Differences were also significant in the hand of the selected fabrics as measured by laboratory procedures. There was a sig­ nificant relationship between subjective evaluation of the hand of each of the fabrics and the objective laboratory measurement of the same property. ACKNOWLEDGMENT The author wishes to express her appreciation to those who have given so graciously of their time in helping her with the preparation of this study. Sincere gratitude is expressed to Dr. Pauline E. Keeney, advisor in this dissertation, for her continuing interest and assistance; to Dr. Eunice Deemer, Dr. Mildred Johnson, Dr. Victor Salvin, and Dr. Thomas McCook, members of the thesis committee for their pertinent suggestions, and to Dr. Larry Nelson and Mrs. Mary Carsky for their assistance in research procedures. Appreciation is also given to the Industries who furnished materials for this study. For their encouragement in this undertaking, the author expresses special thanks to her family and to the faculty of the Department of Clothing, Textiles and Interior Design, University of Connecticut. iii TABLE OF CONTENTS Page LIST OF TABLES vii LIST OF FIGURES ix Chapter I. INTRODUCTION 1 THE PROBLEM 2 Statement of the Problem 2 DEFINITION OF TERMS 3 II. REVIEW OF LITERATURE 5 HAND - NOMENCLATURE 5 HAND - PSYCHOLOGICAL, SOCIOLOGICAL, AND ECONOMIC IMPLICATIONS 7 Psychological Implications 7 Sociological Implications 10 Economic Implications .••••••••••••••• 11 HAND - INFLUENCE OF FIBER, YARN, FABRIC AND FINISH 12 Influence of Fiber Structure on Hand ..••••••• 13 Influence of Yarn Structure on Hand .•••••••. 14 Influence of Fabric Structure on Hand •••••••• 15 Influence of Finishes on Hand 16 EVALUATION OF FABRIC HAND 17 Research Incorporating Subjective Evaluation of Hand •.«•••••••••••••• 17 Research Incorporating Objective Measurement of Fabric Hand .•••••••••••• 19 Research Incorporating Subjective Evaluation and Objective Measurement of Fabric Hand ..•••• 20 SUMMARY 21 iv Chapter Page III. PROCEDURE . 23 Selection of Fabrics for the Evaluation of Hand .................. 23 Preparation of Samples for the Subjective Evaluation of Hand .••••..••••••••••• 24 SUBJECTIVE EVALUATION OF THE HAND OF FABRICS 24 Visual Examination of Fabric Hand ....*••••• 25 Tactile Examination of Fabric Hand .......... 26 Visual/Tactile Examination of Fabric Hand ...... 26 Rank Ordering of the Fabrics •••....•••.•• 26 OBJECTIVE LABORATORY MEASUREMENT OF THE HAND OF FABRICS 27 Sampling Plan .................... 28 Determination of Flexibility and Compressibility 28 Determination of Extensibility 32 Determination of Resilience ...... 33 Determination of Weight ...•••.•••••••• 34 Determination of Thickness ..•...•••••••• 35 Determination of Surface Friction- Surface Contour 36 ANALYSIS OF DATA 37 IV. PRESENTATION OF DATA 38 DISCUSSION OF FINDINGS RELATED TO THE SUBJECTIVE EVALUATION OF HAND . .. 39 Description of Subjects .. ...... 39 Consumer Usage of Terms to Describe Hand of Textile Fabrics ................. 39 Pleasant associative words .... 41 Unpleasant associative words ...... 41 Pleasant or unpleasant associative words ...... 41 Other terms used to describe hand of fabrics ................ 44 Constaner description of fabrics 44 Importance of Hand to Consumers .•••..«••.• 44 Visual Examination of Fifteen Fabrics •••...•• 44 Tactile Examination of Fifteen Fabrics .••••••• 49 Visual/Tactile Examination of Fifteen Fabrics ................. 52 Differences Between Fabrics as Evaluated Subjectively 55 v Chapter Page Differences Between Visual, Tactile, and Visual/Tactile Examinations . • . .. 55 DISCUSSION OF FINDINGS REUTED TO THE OBJECTIVE EVALUATION OF HAND 57 Flexibility-Compressibility ••••• 57 Extensibility 61 Resilience
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