Module 3: Fashion and Trends 40 .Fashion Store Assistant & Personal Shopper 3.1 History of Fashion One of the most important aspects of a personal shopper is to have a solid base of knowledge on the broad concepts of fashion, its origin and evolution. Although at first glance fashion can seem casual, spontaneous or inspired by creative designers, especially over past decades, fashion is actually a much deeper phenomenon. When looked at from a historical perspective, fashion is closely linked to socio-economic development and reflects the historical events of the era it’s born in. By looking at the evolving story of fashion from the late 1800s to today you’ll see how different historical periods have influenced and shaped it. You’ll have a broad knowledge of the origins of all trends and see how we’ve come to the present day styles. 1900: Belle Époque 41 Fashion Store Assistant & Personal Shopper 1900s, the Belle Epoque Although the French had been enjoying a period of splendour known as the Belle Epoque since 1870, it was not until 1900 that the rest of Europe caught the contagious optimism and cheerfulness that spread from Pari-sian society. It started a period of social well-being and distinctive style. After the death of Queen Victoria in Britain in 1901, her successor, King Edward VII welcomed a more joyful, sociable life and so Britain was one of the first countries to adopt this new way of being. Paris set the benchmark for excellence in the world of couture with fashion houses like Callot Soeurs, Doucet, Paquin and Drecoll. Women during this time had purely feminine roles and matched their dress to their position in society. This was limited to being the perfect companion to the male figure in their lives – fathers and later husbands. It’s not surprising then to see how it was that womens bodies were moulded into an S shape – defined bust, flat stomach and high hips at the back. Dresses were tremendously uncomfortable with layers and layers of clothes under which the womans body lost all her strength. As society became more relaxed and got carried away with the splendour of the Belle Epoque, women also started to adopt more significant roles and became more aware both of their needs and how they could be of more use in society. This change of mindset is reflected in fashion by the abandoning of the corset. The change within women was reflected outwardly by, for example, a de-signer called Paul Poiret who, inspired by Oriental style robes and turbans, introduced a new female wardrobe. The female figure was now looking more relaxed, the waist and bust less defined. The decreasing populari-ty of the corset actually reflected the struggle for freedom and rights for women. All this progress, however, was hard won by the women of that time and 42 Fashion Store Assistant & Personal Shopper was interrupted by the outbreak of World War I, 1914 – 1919, which forced fashion to abandon frivolity and women to switch their struggle to the common challenge of dealing with wartime. During this era, dress was characteristically full length since feet were thought of as erotic and exposure could even risk imprisonment. The cor-set was still a typical garment, full of whale bones that actually deformed womens bodies, forcing them into sizes that were too narrow and may well have left lesions on the ribs. Women wore tights or socks and men also covered up, only baring their feet at bedtime and wearing a nightgown called ‘procreation’. Also a characteristic of this time was the Amazon style which was a revo-lution in female clothing. Having started riding horses, they were wearing long, flared skirts, laced boots or booties, mini hats and tailored jackets, all designed for riding side saddle. Subsequently, Chanel introduced the Amazon look - riding pants which enabled women to ride horses with total freedom and comfort. Lace and embroidered fabrics are characteristic of La Belle Epoque, in cuts to enhance the bust. Japan and the east also had a great influence on de- signers of the time like Paul Poiret. Hats were very varied. They were osten- tatious and overdone. They could be decorated with flowers, feathers, fruit, lace, tulle or even a small animal. At night time, hair was embellished with combs, brooches or tiaras and usually bulky and wavy. False hair pieces were often used to make hair more voluminous. Wartime Fashion As we mentioned already, the Great War broke out in 1914 which affected the whole of Europe. Women were forced to abandon their policies for mo- ving forward and take charge of a damaged society struggling for survival. Wardrobes adapted to this new social reality, becoming more practical and leaving behind the frivolity that had grown. This new situation, however, gave women the opportunity to take up new responsibilities, their hus- 43 Fashion Store Assistant & Personal Shopper bands having gone to battle. Typical of this era were dark colours, reflec-ting the times. New social roles brought women jackets which were more masculine in style, bras less feminine and skirts that stopped at calf length. This is when Madame Coco Chanel came to prominence. A hat maker from Deauville, she catered for women from high society who were fleeing the advance of the German troops. She became a pioneer of fashion with a simple, elegant, impeccable style. In this environment, women were losing the romantic vision and adapting their wardrobes to their new reality. They were gaining more rights and be-gan to do work which previously had been done by men. Also significant was the designer Jean Patou whom we’ll talk more about in the section on designers. 1920 – 1930 The Roaring 20s Having overcome the military conflict, Europe was infected with a climate of optimism, of youth and vitality and, as you’d expect, this was reflected in fashion. Women had demonstrated their capabilities and gained the prominence in society that they’d been looking for. This time, they really did abandon the last attachment to the body forms of the previous decades. Some historians believe the more androgynous form that came next was a tribute to the many young that had died in 44 Fashion Store Assistant & Personal Shopper the war. Boyish hairstyles became popular, short with waves and tight to the face or like the bob style that actress Louise Brooks wore. There was a definite male influence to fashion. Women started wearing pants, collarless shirts and cardigans. In reality, though, this new androgynous style didn’t suit all figures, just the adolescent and athletic silhouettes. This was also when the little black dress of Coco Chanel was born and can now be found as a basic in many wardrobes. We also associate this era with the birth of a line of sportswear which went hand-in-hand with the growing desire for outdoor activities. An understandable reaction to the restrictions of wartime, women throu-ghout Europe were now living more free, active and enjoyable lives, cate-red for by the designs of Jean Patou. But, at the end of this adventurous decade, the stock-market crash of 1929 caused a major economic crisis, once again testing the foundations of the European continent and forcing society to readjust to a new economic situation. The clothes characteristic of this decade are dresses to the knee with a straight cut, leaving the waist and hips with freedom of movement. Coco Chanel introduced pants for women for the first time, but they weren’t wi-dely accepted until years later. It was during this decade that the tuxedo for women was first introduced, an idea developed more prominently in the 1960s by Yves Saint Laurent. Fringed dresses are probably the most characteristic garment of the 1920s and were inspired by the lively Charleston which needed lots of freedom and movement. They were decorated with sequins and small tubular crys-tal beads which caught the night lights adding sparkle and shine. Women started wearing fishnet stockings, garters and shoes with an ankle buckle, all typical of this era also. They used cigarette holders and hand- 45 Fashion Store Assistant & Personal Shopper 46 Fashion Store Assistant & Personal Shopper bags were metal or leather. Accessories were accentuated and overused, like gold chains, but the accessory that stands out from the 1920s is the pearl necklace, long and sometimes wrapped around several times. Mens clothing didn’t change significantly. They still wore suits, mostly black. White suits, pinstripe suits and the stylish Panama hats did become more popular for those who wanted something different. 1930 - 1940 In the 1930s women began another new journey through womanhood, choosing tighter clothes like Hollywood actresses. Due to the crash of 1929, clothes became more serious again so the wo-man appeared like the docile wife to her husband. Evening gowns often had light, floaty fabrics with tight hips and waists. Men wore pinstripe suits, often double breasted with a handkerchief in the pocket and American collared shirts. 1940 – 1950 : A New Look The economic crisis that resulted from the crash of the New York Stock Exchange plunged Europe into a climate of uncertainty and political insta-bility. Fashion was greatly influenced by the world of cinema. Submerged in increasing poverty, society, especially women, dreamed of a fairytale world that they accessed through movies. Actresses like Marlene Dietrich or Greta Garbo became true icons of fas-hion and their styles were widely imitated. Women wanted to be sophis-ticated like those in the films and wore skirts with a wide flare and waists and busts were marked.