Brand Building
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BRAND BUILDING inside the house of cÉline Breguet, theinnovator. Classique Hora Mundi 5717 An invitation to travel across the continents and oceans illustrated on three versions of the hand-guilloché lacquered dial, the Classique Hora Mundi is the first mechanical watch with an instant-jump time-zone display. Thanks to apatented mechanical memorybased on two heart-shaped cams, it instantlyindicates the date and the time of dayornight in agiven city selected using the dedicated pushpiece. Historyisstill being written... BREGUET BOUTIQUES –NEW YORK 646 692-6469 –BEVERLY HILLS 310860-9911 BAL HARBOUR 305 866-10 61 –LAS VEGAS 702733-7435 –TOLL FREE 877-891-1272 –WWW.BREGUET.COM Haute Joaillerie, place Vendôme since 1906 Audacious Butterflies Clip, pink gold, pink, mauve and purple sapphires, diamonds. Clip, white gold, black opals, malachite, lapis lazuli and diamonds. Visit our online boutique at vancleefarpels.com - 877-VAN-CLEEF The spirit of travel. Download the Louis Vuitton pass app to reveal exclusive content. 870 MADISON AVENUE NEW YORK H® AC CO 5 01 ©2 Coach Dreamers Chloë Grace Moretz/ Actress Coach Swagger 27 in patchwork floral Fluff Jacket in pink coach.com 800-457-TODS 800-457-TODS april 2015 16 EDITOR’S LETTER 20 CONTRIBUTORS 22 COLUMNISTS on Failure 116 STILL LIFE Mike Tyson The former heavyweight champion shares a few of his favorite things. Photography by Spencer Lowell What’s News. 25 The Whitney Museum of American Art Reopens With Largest Show Yet 28 Menswear Grooming Opts for Black Packaging The Texas Cocktail Scene Goes Big 30 Bonhams Auctions Lauren Bacall’s Rare Art Pieces A Timeline of Maison Kitsuné’s History Designer Camille Tanoh Launches Shoe Collection Aymeric Le Deun’s Beautiful Buttons 32 Peter Zumthor Designs Spice Shakers and Oil Cruets Chef Gabriel Kreuther Opens Eatery in New York Croc Leather Bags Get Snapped Up 34 Buy Vineyard Plots at an Argentine Hotel A Coveted Chair Features Weighty Design Anniversary Watches from Vacheron Constantin 36 Popular Novels Blur Memoir and Fiction 40 Q&As With Three Top Globe-Trotting DJs Market report. 49 PRETTY SIMPLE Day or night, pristine white dresses are a cool new canvas for spring. Photography by Ben Weller Styling by Celestine Cooney ON THE COVER A neoclassical stairway at fashion brand Céline’s first Parisian maison on rue Vivienne, photographed by Robert Polidori. THIS PAGE Model Vanessa Axente photographed by Josh Olins and styled by Clare Richardson. Proenza 72 Schouler bandeau bikini top, Valentino canvas pants and Loewe suede woven bag. For details see Sources, page 114. “the world we live in now is so ambiguous. it’s almost a constant state of flux.” 96 —steve coogan, p. 96 TO BREAK THE RULES, YOU MUST FIRST MASTER THEM. 49 100 THE VALLÉE DE JOUX. FOR MILLENNIA A HARSH, UNYIELDING ENVIRONMENT; AND SINCE 1875 THE HOME OF AUDEMARS PIGUET, IN THE VILLAGE OF LE BRASSUS. THE EARLY WATCHMAKERS WERE SHAPED HERE, IN AWE OF THE FORCE OF NATURE the exchange. the taste issue. YET DRIVEN TO MASTER ITS MYSTERIES THROUGH THE COMPLEX MECHANICS OF THEIR CRAFT. STILL 59 TRACKED: Michael Smith 72 ISLAND DRESSING 96 ALL ABOUT STEVE TODAY THIS PIONEERING SPIRIT INSPIRES US TO The gadabout, multitasking designer The savage beauty of Maui’s Hana As British comedian Steve Coogan CONSTANTLY CHALLENGE THE CONVENTIONS OF has a new home base in Madrid. coastline makes a dramatic backdrop approaches 50, his acerbic wit has FINE WATCHMAKING. By Julia Reed for heat-seeking styles. found a tender side. Photography by Salva López Photography by Josh Olins By Michael Hainey Styling by Clare Richardson Photography by Matthew Kristall 64 STORY OF D’O Styling by Benjamin Sturgill After taking it slow, Milan 84 THE HOUSE OF CÉLINE restaurateur Davide Oldani expands The fashion brand, known for its chic 100 FEAST OF EDEN his empire. restraint, finally has a home of its own. Could the idea of “fine Irish cuisine” By Jay Cheshes By Robert Murphy cross over from a punch line into Photography by Stefano Tripodi Photography by Robert Polidori a bona fide culinary movement? Portrait by Zoë Ghertner By David Prior 68 SACAI Photography by Erik Olsson Chitose Abe’s slightly twisted fashion 92 THE REAL FAST-FOOD has a global fan base. REVOLUTION 106 BROWN-BAGGIN’ IT By Lynn Yaeger Chefs Daniel Patterson and Roy Choi After seasons of boring black, return plan to bring healthy food to to the easygoing era of caramel-hued leather. Clockwise from left: Model Aneta Pajak disadvantaged neighborhoods. photographed by Ben Weller and styled By Howie Kahn Photography by Chris Brooks by Celestine Cooney. Kenzo dress, Rochas Still life photography by Jeremy Liebman Styling by Anie Stanley socks and Jimmy Choo shoes. For details see Still life styling by Sonia Rentsch Sources, page 114. Comedian Steve Coogan MILLENARY MINUTE photographed by Matthew Kristall and 110 THE ALCHEMIST REPEATER styled by Benjamin Sturgill. Sheep at pasture Artist Teresita Fernández ambi- in Ireland photographed by Erik Olsson. tiously transforms a New York park IN PINK GOLD, WHITE ENAMEL DIAL. into a shimmering landscape. GET WSJ. SATURDAY A Saturday-only subscription to The Wall Street Journal gives a weekly fix of smart style By Carol Kino and culture. Includes OFF DUTY, a guide to your not-at-work life; REVIEW, the best in ideas, books and culture; Photography by Pari Dukovic and, of course, the monthly WSJ. Magazine. 1-888-681-9216 or www .subscribe.wsj .com/getweekend. Follow us on Twitter and Instagram @WSJMag. AUDEMARS PIGUET BOUTIQUES. 646.375.0807 NEW YORK: 65 EAST 57TH STREET, NY. 888.214.6858 BAL HARBOUR: BAL HARBOUR SHOPS, FL. 866.595.9700 AUDEMARSPIGUET.COM ’ FAR OUT ILLUSTRATION BY ALEJANDRO CARDENAS TUBULAR SWELLS Anubis enjoys Maui’s surf while Bast (like Anubis, wearing Saint Laurent by Hedi Slimane) and Who watch from shore. HE INSPIRATION for the setting of one of sand and vast stretches of blue ocean. The task of viral, who needs a social media director?) this month’s fashion features came from an capturing this gorgeous scenery fell to photogra- British comedian Steve Coogan, co-star of the unlikely source: While scrolling through pher Josh Olins, who shot model Vanessa Axente on brilliant, bittersweet road-trip movies The Trip and the Instagram feed of a friend, photogra- location in the spring’s fi nest unstructured, casual The Trip to Italy, has the lead role in Showtime’s Tphy agent Nick Bryning, I came across a beautiful, pieces, well-suited to beachside lounging. new comedy series, Happyish, in which he plays an vintage wallpaper he’d excavated while renovating French luxury brand Céline doesn’t have an advertising executive navigating a midlife crisis. As his house in Narrowsburg, NY. I knew in an instant Instagram feed, making it something of an outlier in his interview with writer Michael Hainey reveals, at that it would make a perfect backdrop for the sea- the fashion world. But as we document in our feature 49, Coogan has tempered his caustic wit, coming to son’s best new handbags. One of my favorite things on the LVMH-owned house, which recently estab- share Aldous Huxley’s conviction that, in the end, about Instagram is how it allows me to be an arm- lished its fi rst maison on Paris’s rue Vivienne, that people should just learn to be nicer to one another. “I chair explorer, creating a window onto the world choice is of a piece with Céline’s consciously restrained love the simplicity of that,” he says. So do I. from far-fl ung outposts—a perspective I hope our approach, focusing on a limited range of products and April issue o ers as well. creating lines that conform less to the passing sea- Kristina O’Neill An iPhone camera wouldn’t do justice to Maui’s sons and more to an idea of timeless beauty. (Also, [email protected] Hana coastline in Hawaii, with its rugged fl ora, black when your ad campaign starring Joan Didion goes Instagram: kristina_oneill . editor in Chief Kristina O’Neill Creative direCtor Magnus Berger exeCutive editor Chris Knutsen Managing editor Brekke Fletcher publisher Anthony Cenname global advertising direCtor Stephanie Arnold features direCtor Elisa Lipsky-Karasz business Manager Julie Checketts Andris design direCtor Pierre Tardif brand direCtor Jillian Maxwell Marketing Coordinator Elisa Handbury photography direCtor Jennifer Pastore Magazine Coordinator Tessa Ku artiCles editor Megan Conway exeCutive ChairMan, neWs Corp Rupert Murdoch style direCtor David Thielebeule Chief exeCutive offiCer, neWs Corp Robert Thomson art direCtor Tanya Moskowitz Chief exeCutive offiCer, doW Jones & CoMpany William Lewis editor in Chief, the Wall street Journal Gerard Baker photo editor Damian Prado senior deputy Managing editor, the Wall street Journal assoCiate editor Christopher Ross Michael W. Miller editorial direCtor, WsJ. Weekend Emily Nelson Copy Chief Ali Bahrampour produCtion direCtor Scott White head of global sales, the Wall street Journal Trevor Fellows senior Market editor Laura Stoloff vp MultiMedia sales Christina Babbits, Chris Collins, Market editor Isaiah Freeman-Schub Ken DePaola, Etienne Katz, Robert Welch, Will Wilkinson vp vertiCal Markets Marti Gallardo assoCiate Market editor Sam Pape vp strategy and operations Evan Chadakoff researCh Chief Randy Hartwell vp ad serviCes Paul Cousineau vp integrated Marketing Paul Tsigrikes Junior designer Dina Ravvin exeCutive direCtor, MultiMedia sales/asia Mark Rogers assoCiate photo editor Hope Brimelow exeCutive direCtor, global events Sara Shenasky senior Manager, global events Katie Grossman editorial assistant Sade Strehlke Creative direCtor Bret Hansen photo assistant Noelle Lacombe ad serviCes, Magazine Manager Don Lisk ad serviCes, bureau assoCiate Tom Roggina fashion assistants Lauren Ingram, Arielle Cabreja direCtor of Corporate CoMMuniCations Colleen Schwartz Web editors Corporate CoMMuniCations Manager Arianna Imperato Robin Kawakami, Seunghee Suh Contributing editors Alexa Brazilian, Michael Clerizo, Kelly Crow, Celia Ellenberg, Jason Gay, Jacqui Getty, Howie Kahn, Joshua Levine, WSJ.