Page 1 Thursday s MEN’S: s DENIM: Contemporary Zegna brands get creative to EYE: Sandra profits fall, buck downturn, page 12. Bernhard on but company comedy, sees growth s Kabbalah and potential, FINANCIAL: Roberto Kathy Griffin, page 3. Cavalli flip-flops on page 4. sale of a stake, page 3. Women’sWomen’s Wear Wear Daily Daily • The• The Retailers’ Retailers’ Daily Daily Newspaper Newspaper • Tktktktk• June 4, tk,2009 tktk • $3.00• $3.00 WSportswear/Men’swDTHURSdAY Partyheddeck Girl Diane von Furstenberg packed plenty of fun into a resort lineup that worked a festive palette, colorful polkadots and flirty dresses, such as this printed chiffon dress sprinkled with confetti paillettes. For more, see pages 8 to 10. Avoiding Distractions: Men’s Brands Retrench, Focus on Core Products By Brenner Thomas and Jean E. Palmieri Men’s wear companies are working on their core. Picky consumers, risk-averse retailers and a cutthroat adherence WwD to the bottom line have prompted Men’s many vendors to focus on heritage, brand-identifying products as they downplay product extensions or ancillary classifications. JA Apparel, the company that operates the Joseph Abboud brand, is farming out major categories to licensees in order to focus on its classic clothing business. Luxury outerwear maker Belstaff beefed up its core offering of iconic waxed motorcycle jackets by creating an in-stock program. And island lifestyle company Tommy Bahama has seen a renewed vigor for its camp shirts, the product that See Vendors, Page6 o EN t A CEN y ALA t by PHOTO BY BY PHOTO photo 3x14 (left) WWD.COM WWDTHURSDSportswearAY FASHION ™ 8 Resort continues with looks from Calvin Klein, A weekly update on consumer attitudes and behavior based Diane von Furstenberg, Carolina Herrera and more. on ongoing research from Cotton Incorporated GENERAL 1 Picky consumers and stores, and a pledge for BACK TO BASICS profits has men’s firms focusing on signature Women Turn To Practical, Affordable Jeans and Tees in Tough Economy products and shunning ancillary classifications. 3 Activist investors won a round in their proxy fight with Saks Inc. as shareholders approved In uncertain times, the tried and true is the taken a chance and offered really great fashion styles nonbinding proposals aimed at accountability. ultimate form of affordable comfort. For most that stick out from the rest. They’re thinking that if Aquascutum said it has entered a consultation women, those trusted favorites in their apparel women are going to spend the money, it is going to 5 period with its workforce during which it will talk choices are wardrobe basics: denim jeans and be something they fall in love with and is special.” to staff and unions about planned layoffs. cotton tees. These days, denim is not the only tried and 11 Business leaders consider monitoring of factories In spite of a shrinking economy and a somber true basic; the tee also resonates with consumers for violations of labor standards to be ineffective jobs forecast, 69% of female respondents tell the for its practicality and simplicity. “It’s easy, natural and unreliable, said a United Nations expert. Cotton Incorporated Lifestyle Monitor™ survey that and comfortable to just throw on a tee with your they will buy at least one pair of denim jeans in the jeans,” says Linda Heidinger, owner of Alphabets, a 12 DENIM: Contemporary denim firms see the tough boutique on New York City’s economy as a chance to add more value to their coming months. brands, grow globally and get more creative. Those numbers stand in Lower East Side, who has stark contrast to the fact that “Denim and tees are clothing you sold more than her fair share 13 BEAT: It’s been two-plus years since Cynthia Steffe female consumers are feeling can throw on and go, you can dress of tees. “Tees are the perfect left her namesake brand and owner Bernard Chaus Inc. has finally found its groove with the line. the pinch and are clearly them up or down, caring for them layering piece and the perfect sacrificing other segments is easy and affordable, and you partner for a pair of jeans.” of their wardrobes. Seven in can wear them all year long.” Heidinger asserts that 4 EYE ten female respondents tell denim and tees have become They flocked to Gotham Hall to fete Liya Kebede, the Monitor survey that the – Jamila Galloway, Djpremium.com a classic uniform for both Liya Kebede in Russell Simmons, Isabel Toledo and Bruce Weber current economic situation work and play. “It didn’t Thakoon. at the Gordon Parks Foundation gala. has affected them in a negative happen overnight, but it’s way. Sixty-five percent of females report that they certainly now at the point where jeans are just what Classified Advertisements.................................................................................................15 have less money to spend on clothing this year you grab when getting dressed, but they’re not TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS compared to last year, and 62% report that they without personality. As far as tees, you can always [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’s name. will be buying less clothing this year. find new designs that express your interests and WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2009 FAIRCHILD FASHION GROU P. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. While apparel sales are clearly taking a hit in this send a message about who you are for a relatively VOLUME 197, NO. 116. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with economic downturn, the category is nevertheless inexpensive price.” one additional issue in January, May, October, November and December, two additional issues in March, April, June and August, and three additional issues in February and September) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division faring better than others, according to Monitor Heidinger’s observation about consumers of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services data. When female consumers are faced with favoring denim certainly has merit, according to provided by Condé Nast Publications: S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President/CEO; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President/COO; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President/Human Resources. Periodicals postage increasing expenditures on necessities, they are historical data from the Monitor survey. Fifty-seven paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. more likely to put off spending on vacations percent of female respondents reported a preference Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P. O . Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6 POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES (70%), eating out (67%), or entertainment and for denim over casual slacks in 1995, the first TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P. O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615–5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS electronics (54%) than clothing (39%). Over time, year that the Monitor started recording consumer CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed the percentage of those female consumers deferring behaviors. In 2008, that percentage jumped to an on most recent label. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all clothing purchases has astounding 75%. editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-630-4274 or fax requests to 212-630-4280. Visit us online declined, from 45% in Description of Denim Wardrobe “Denim and tees at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. May/June 2008 to 39% are clothing you can Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services Among Females that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please in February 2009. throw on and go, you advise us at P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT Jeans are the perfect can dress them up or RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS O F, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, 50% UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR value proposition, says down, caring for them ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER Jamila Galloway, Denim 45% 43% is easy and affordable, MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE Buyer at Djpremium. 40% and you can wear them ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. com. “I’m sure there are all year long,” Galloway many reasons as to why 35% from Djpremium.com women are loving denim 31% reports. 30% DAILY even more during these 26% Easy and affordable If I have to trade 20 tough economic times, 25% care is an important “ but I believe that a lot consideration for QUOTE minutes of material for a 20% of denim brands are consumers today. world of peace, I’ll be glad to sacrifice it. lowering their opening 15% Denim and tees are price points, making low maintenance, and — Comedian Sandra Bernhard, happy there are few jokes” 10% the goods available to may easily be worn about President Obama.