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Hamburgs Grün zwischen Tradition und Trends Streifzüge durchParks und Naturlandschaften Hamburgs Grünzwischen Tradition und Trends Hamburg’s Green Spaces – Tradition and Trends

Exploring Parks and Countryside

Discover Hamburg’s green face!

Hamburg is green: parks and open spaces, street trees, squares and green riverbanks are an important part of the townscape. Such recreational havens can even be found right in the city centre. Green in combination with the omnipresent water characterizes the city’s atmosphere. This might surprise visitors, and citizens value it as a quality of life. We devote much effort to maintaining this quality, by reducing the footprint of developments, by designing new parks or by looking after our street trees.

Hamburg’s unique geographical location at the bifurcation of the , and the influence of this tidal river have created habitats with huge biodiversity. Bogs and floodplains in the river valleys remained largely intact, because they were deemed unsuitable for development for a long time. Moors and woodland are situated in northern and southern parts of the town. This valuable natural heritage is specially protected for future generations to enjoy: Eight percent of Hamburg’s total area are designated nature reserves. This is more than in any other German federal state – and we still hope to designate further areas.

With this paperback we intend to bring Hamburg’s green face closer to you: the traditional, well-known parks, such as Planten un Blomen and the Stadtpark; the many lesser-known parks and open spaces, which await to be discovered; and the nature reserves with their varied plants, wildlife and landscapes. Finally we wish to give you an impression of what is to come. As the city evolves, so shall the green spaces grow. One example of this future vision is the new large park on the island Wilhelmsburg that will emerge from the international garden show 2013.

Enjoy reading about and discovering Hamburg’s green face!

Anja Hajduk Senator for Urban Development and Environment, Free and Hanseatic City of Hamburg 4 Contents

Wandsbek Eimsbüttel Nord For your orientation and to help with planning your route Hamburg’s seven districts are Altona shown in different colours and the Mitte projects marked accordingly.

Harburg

Bergedorf

06 Introduction

12 Hamburg’s Green Heart 14 Alter Elbpark, Wallanlagen and Planten un Blomen 19 Promenade “Bei der Erholung” 20 Antonipark/ParkFiction 22 Spielbudenplatz 23 Freizeitfläche Zirkusweg 24 Jungfernstieg and 26 Domplatz 28 Urban Parks, Squares and Promenades in

34 Green Quarters 36 From Platz der Republik to Altonaer Balkon 38 Square “Am Born”/”Kemal-Altun-Platz“ 40 Grünzug Neu-Altona and Wohlerspark 42 Altonaer Volkspark 44 Innocentiapark 46 Lindenpark 47 Bewegungsräume Lenzsiedlung 48 Wacholderpark – Öffentlicher Garten Fuhlsbüttel 50 Hammer Park

52 River Landscape Elbe and National Park Hamburgisches Wattenmeer 54 Hirschpark, Baurs Park and Nature Reserves Neßsand and Mühlenberger Loch 57 Jenischpark incorporating the Nature Reserve Flottbektal 60 Strandweg, Elbhöhenwanderweg and Römischer Garten 64 Nature Reserves Wittenbergener Heide/Elbwiesen and Schnaakenmoor 5

67 Rüschpark 68 Nature Reserve Heuckenlock 70 Nature Reserve Zollenspieker 72 National Park Hamburgisches Wattenmeer

76 The Alster between Lombardsbrücke and Duvenstedter Brook 78 Außenalster and Alsterpark 80 Hamburger Stadtpark 82 Ohlsdorfer Friedhof 84 Nature Reserve Wohldorfer Wald 86 Nature Reserves Rodenbeker Quellental and Hainesch-Iland 89 Nature Reserve Duvenstedter Brook

92 The : From Kuhmühlenteich to Höltigbaum 94 and Wandse-Grünzug including Eichtalpark and Botanischer Sondergarten 98 Nature Reserves Höltigbaum, Ahrensburger and Stellmoorer Tunneltal 102 Nature Reserve Volksdorfer Teichwiesen

104 The with Vier- und Marschlande 106 Nature Reserve Boberger Niederung 108 Wasserpark Dove-Elbe and Nature Reserve “Die Reit“ 112 Bergedorfer Schlossgarten 114 Nature Reserve Wiesen

116 Future in the South – Protection and Design as part of the “Leap across the Elbe“ 118 internationale gartenschau hamburg 2013 124 BallinStadt and BallinPark 126 Harburger Schlossinsel 128 Schwarzenbergpark 130 Harburger Stadtpark 132 Nature Reserve Fischbeker Heide 136 Nature Reserve Moorgürtel

138 Services 142 Picture Credits 143 Imprint Back cover: Map of Hamburg

Introduction 7 The Green Metropolis on the Waterfront – Past and Present

Hamburg – German Capital of why we protect them as nature Nature Conservation reserves. With eight percent of its total area designated as nature While gardens and parks are nature reserves, Hamburg tops the list of idealized and created by man, ’s federal states. nature reserves protect parts of our natural environment, which When it comes to plants Hamburg remained largely intact until today. boasts great biodiversity, partly Parts of our cultural landscape that owing to the variety of landscapes. have only been used in a limited The Elbe valley determined the way are often equally valuable as Greater Hamburg area since time habitats for rare plants and wildlife. immemorial. Bordering the river are marshlands, intersected by ditches. It may be surprising, that nature Due to its connection to the North preservation is of any interest in a Sea, the Elbe is a tidal river up to big city. But moors and wetland , which lies beyond areas could not easily be built upon Hamburg. The tides create fresh- or turned into farmland and were water marshes that are extremely therefore often preserved for rare habitats throughout Europe. centuries. Today we are aware of Some species are unique to the tidal the value these areas have for freshwater flats of the Elbe. The biodiversity, natural cycles and mudflats of the Mühlenberger Loch, safeguarding quality of life, which is which were recently designated as a 8 Introduction

nature reserve, are host to deep valleys, such as the Volks- thousands of migrating birds every dorfer Teichwiesen. Also the Alster spring and autumn. Scours are valley has been shaped by the last another special habitat; these water Ice Age with its moraines (debris bodies were created in the Middle deposited by a glacier) and glacial Ages, when dikes broke. A streams. They can still be seen in the surprisingly large number still exist nature reserves Hainesch-Iland and in the Vier- und Marschlande, the Rodenbeker Quellental. south-easterly part of Hamburg, which specializes in flower and Hamburg’s most precious natural production. Bordering the treasures are already protected as Elbe valley are the geest’s slopes. To nature reserves; many of them are the North the sunny hills are very an essential part of the European near the river, to the South they natural heritage according to the form the Harburger Berge, Flora-Fauna-Habitat directive. incorporating a large area of Some of the areas are too small to heathland. In some parts such as in fulfil the criteria and will have to be Boberg or Klövensteen sand from suitably extended. In the recent past the river has created tall dunes. In the Hamburg Senate has made clear, addition to the river Elbe the Ice that in a burgeoning city such as Ages have left their mark all over Hamburg nature preservation will Hamburg. Underneath melting have to flourish as well in order to glaciers streams have generated increase the appeal of the city and 9

its quality of life. By extending reputation as a city of gardens and existing nature reserves and parks. designating new ones their area has grown by ten percent to a total of Several public open spaces are the approximately 6,000 hectares. result of state care. Impressively, Another important task in nine percent of the city’s area are preserving Hamburg’s natural parks and green open spaces of treasures is to protect nature different sizes, locations and reserves from gradual decline and functions; and almost half of them from negative impacts, and to are near natural water bodies. Parks improve them instead, so that they and valuable habitats are often can unfurl their full potential as closely linked or interconnected. habitats for flora and fauna alike. In medieval towns green open spaces were confined to market Hamburg is growing green – squares or churchyards within the Parks, Squares and Promenades fortifications. Once the fortifications were no longer needed, they were Hamburg’s many gardens and parks razed, turned into green spaces and still reflect the significance and value used for recreation by the citizens they had in times gone by. – this also happened in Hamburg. Especially the parks along the Elbe, In the mid-19th Century it had many of them formerly privately become obvious that the density of owned, contribute to Hamburg’s buildings and the squalid working 10 Introduction

conditions led to health problems In 1913 Ferdinand Tutenberg among the people. Light, air and became head of the department in space was in short supply. At that the town of Altona (now part of time Hamburg only had 1.6 square Hamburg) and in 1914 Otto Linne metres of green space per head, followed in Hamburg. They Cologne in comparison had 51.9 contributed largely to creating a and Hanover 70.4. socially sustainable green infrastructure in both towns. The Transforming the fortifications into large parks dating to that period, promenades was by no means such as in the borough of sufficient to create better living and in the districts of conditions for Hamburg’s citizens. Altona and Harburg still attract At the turn of the 19th Century it large numbers of visitors in the became commonly known that in evenings and at weekends. order to develop healthy living conditions large new parks were Especially the Hamburger Stadtpark needed as well as the professional in Winterhude was a model for skills of landscape architects. In modern park design at the time and accordance with this, a Parks’ still is internationally renowned. In Department was added to already addition the parks along the Alster, existing departments in Hamburg’s in Öjendorf or on the former local authorities. Other German fortifications, some of which were cities already had those for decades. created in connection with 11

International Garden Exhibitions Not only the big parks create between 1953 and 1973, shape the Hamburg’s “green face”, but in townscape and are much-loved particular the many small parks and amenity spaces for relaxation, sports open spaces that were built over the and recreation within the city limits. last fifty years in addition to the Many of these parks are listed almost 245,000 street trees. Visitors owing to their cultural value. Their tend to be impressed by the green maintenance and improvement are townscape they are offered. responsibilities of garden heritage conservation so that they are protected well into the future.

13

Hamburg’s Green Heart

Hamburg’s green heart beats at the In HafenCity, one of Europe’s biggest centre of the city and radiates along building sites, the ring of the former green arteries to the outskirts. It is fortifications is meant to be continued: enclosed by the former fortifications In combination with terraced squares with their green layer and bordering and promenades along the water’s parks. The fortifications were turned edge, with green courtyards and into Hamburg’s first public park at the avenues a varied green pattern is beginning of the 19th Century and emerging. form an entity with the beautiful park Planten un Blomen. In the vicinity are The Binnenalster, skirted by prome- the Promenade “Bei der Erholung“, the nades, squares and a small park lies Spielbudenplatz (on the Reeeperbahn), inside the green ring of the former the Antonipark/Park Fiction and the fortifications. The Alster is one of the Freizeitfläche Zirkusweg – all of them many examples of attractive interplay newly built, they reflect the diversity between water and green space, for of Hamburg’s open space design at which Hamburg is so well known. present. 14 Hamburg’s Green Heart Alter Elbpark, Wallanlagen and Planten un Blomen

Hamburg’s most central – and Going north from Stintfang, with oldest – green space, the former its vineyard on the south facing fortifications, form a green slope, one quickly reaches another connecting crescent between the viewpoint: The Bismarck monument rivers Alster and Elbe. They offer in Alter Elbpark. On the heights of various options for an inspiring and the former bastion Casparus the relaxing day out on the edge of the city erected a colossal monument in city centre. honour of the first Chancellor as early as 1906. This was a risky They start at the Landungsbrücken gesture in the Kaiserreich, (part of the ) with a stunning exacerbated by the fact that the view: The vantage point Stintfang figure faces west towards Altona, offers long distance views of the which belonged to the Kaiserreich port and the river Elbe. The steep unlike the Free City of Hamburg. slope of this former bastion (all of In 1869 this had already been the the bastions were named after 17th site of the first International Century councilmen, this one was Garden Show, when eleven nations called Adolphus) gives a good presented insights into trends in impression of the size of Hamburg’s garden design to thousands of historic fortifications. They were visitors in just eleven days. These built in the 17th Century, almost exhibitions became a recurring forming a circle from this point on feature in this section of the the Elbe up to where Binnen- and fortifications, moving north as Außenalster (Inner and Outer time went on. Alster) meet and then back towards the Elbe near Baumwall. Having descended from lofty Incorporating 22 bastions and a heights and crossed the Millerntor- deep moat, they could only be damm one reaches Große Wall- crossed at one of the six gates. anlagen. Here activities for all ages Several street names still relate to are on offer. The HamburgMuseum the fortifications, which were razed not only houses many paintings and turned into a park at the and models illustrating Hamburg’s beginning of the 19th Century by history, but also a café. Further the garden designer Isaac Altman attractions in this section of the from Bremen. park are a children’s theatre, several playgrounds and the famous skating or ice rink. This is also, Planten un Blomen

Alter Botanischer Garten

Lombardsbrücke Kleine Wallanlagen

Große Wallanlagen

HamburgMuseum

Alter Elbpark

Stintfang

1 The former fortifications surround the city centre and were partly turned into a park. 1 2 At Stintfang the former bastion Adolphus still is recognizable. 3 Bismarck looking towards Altona.

2 3 16 Hamburg’s Green Heart

where for six months in 1897, 22 bastion and moat. Floral displays nations impressed the public with and water features contribute to the their displays at another Garden tranquil character of this brief Exhibition (Allgemeine Gartenbau- stretch. ausstellung). After World War II the park was partly filled with A tunnel decorated with colourful debris, blurring the boundaries of mosaics leads to the most extensive the historic moat in this section, so part of the park with the old that they are barely recognizable botanical garden and Planten un today. Blomen. The water course and waterfall that one encounters first Intersected by Sievekingsplatz, was designed by Hamburg’s well- which was constructed together known landscape architect Karl with the judiciary buildings Plomin for the International between 1879 and 1912 in the Garden Show (IGA) 1963. It grand style of the times, the park connects to the only part of the continues as the Kleine Wall- park, where the historic moat of the anlagen. It, too, is shaped by a former fortifications still can be

The Heinrich-Hertz-Turm (television tower) is visible from many parts of Planten un Blomen. 1

2 3 1 Japanese autumn impressions in the middle of Hamburg. 2 The Bullerberge are a children’s paradise. 3 In the Rose Garden blooming roses and clematis compete for attention.

experienced to full extend. offer all year round, but it is The raised path to the right allows especially beautiful with autumn visitors to fully appreciate the drop colours. Plant displays and areas from the embankment to the moat. for resting surround the landscape The Johan-van-Valckenburgh- garden. Bridge (named after the engineer of Hamburg’s 17th Century fortifi- To the Northwest a true gardener’s cations) leads across the moat and paradise unfolds. Visitors can offers good views of the sunny choose between the Japanese Mittelmeerterrassen with their Garden with its tea pavilion, Mediterranean character and the designed and built by Prof. Araki in glasshouses with tropical displays. 1990, the Rose Garden dating from This ensemble was also built for the 1993, the scientific Apothecary’s IGA 1963. Owing to the skilful garden with its medicinal herbs and construction it is listed and is the Bürgergärten (Citizens’ certainly worth a visit – both from Gardens) full of perennials. And the outside and within. should one want to relax among all the plants and flowers (Planten un To the Northeast lies the Japanese Blomen), one can sit down at the Landscape Garden, dating from cascades in one of the typical 1988. This masterpiece by the “Strahlensessel”, seats designed for Japanese landscape architect Prof. Hamburg’s parks. The cascades are Yoshikuni Araki has something to remnants of a Garden Show in 1935, 2

1 3 1 Planten un Blomen, bordered by Dammtor-Station (at the top), the Congress Centre and Heinrich-Hertz-Turm. 2 In the listed glasshouses tropical plants can be experienced from close by. 3 A much loved nocturnal display: the water-light-show at the central lake (Park lake).

the Niederdeutsche Gartenschau and business people enjoy their well Planten un Blomen that gave the deserved lunch breaks, in the after- park its name. noon children play in the park, and The lake (Parksee) at the centre of in the evenings Hamburg’s visitors this part of the park boasts the and citizens enjoy these surroun- famous water-light-organ dating dings – throughout the year. back to 1973. During the summer, visitors flock to the extensive lawns and grassy slopes to enjoy concerts every evening. Children can discover imaginary playgrounds, District: Hamburg-Mitte such as the Bullerberge or areas for Location: along Gorch-Fock-Wall and water play, where they can exercise Holstenwall up to Landungsbrücken their agility. And music lovers of all PT: Planten un Blomen: tastes can enjoy concerts at the S1 Dammtor, Stephans- Musikpavillon – free of charge. platz; Wallanlagen, Hamburg Museum: Messehallen, St. Pauli, Stintfang, Alter Hamburg’s green “business card” Elbpark: U3 Landungsbrücken has a lot to offer: In the mornings Size: approx. 50 hectares guests staying at hotels nearby and Specials: HamburgMuseum, plant displays, glasshouses, play the locals jog here, at lunch time grounds, cafés visitors to the convention centre Information: see page 138 Hamburg’s Green Heart 19 Promenade “Bei der Erholung”

Looking for a good view of the created several viewpoints with river Elbe and the port? Why not seats that catch the midday sun. visit this promenade above Lan- Between the viewpoints historic dungsbrücken (part of the port)? rows of trees were extended, so that one can also find a shady place. Along a 600-metre stretch on the Visitors and locals (with their dogs) geest high above the Elbe this as well as local employees use the footpath and cycle route offer some promenade frequently, not only of the most beautiful views across during their lunch breaks or to the , and at its watch the stunning firework Eastern end connects the former displays on New Year’s Eve. fortifications and the Alter Elbpark with the river.

The three points of access from David-, Bernhard-Nocht- and District: Hamburg-Mitte Seewartenstraße are marked by Location: parallel to Bernhard-Nocht- Straße custom-made metal nuggets and PT: S1, U3 St. Pauli Landungs- invite visitors to roam freely, enjoy brücken the view in peace and quiet or Size: 1,3 hectares, 600 metres long Specials: View to Landungsbrücken, stretch their legs. The Hamburg Alter Elbtunnel, Port of based landscape practice EGL also Hamburg 20 Hamburg’s Green Heart Antonipark/ParkFiction

The ParkFiction project shows brought art, (sub)culture and clearly how creativity, dreams and politics together in a unique way. professional knowledge can turn a small open space into a little gem. Apart from a viewing platform, This group of small parks was complete with tea-island and flying shown at the Dokumenta XI in carpet made of grass – on a gym’s Kassel in 2002 and won inter- roof – there are a tulip playing national acclaim. field, an informal lawn for play and relaxation, and a dogs’ playground Its unusual design may be partly with poodle motifs. A garden for responsible for it: Where else in a reading and resting, small big city does one encounter a “tea neighbourhood gardens and a island” and a “flying carpet” or boules ground have been developed artificial palm trees and a sandy in the adjoining churchyard of the beach with river view? But maybe St. Pauli church. To the East an its extraordinary design process has amphitheatre and the sunny got something to do with it as well: Schauermanns Park-Terrasse have “Dreams will leave the flats and been created. All sections of this will walk the streets…” The title of park have been creatively designed, Margit Czenki’s movie in 1999 was are easy to use and can be the leitmotif of a group of locals experienced with all senses. and artists, who had combined Children use the beach at Schauer- forces in 1994 in order to stop the manns Park-Terrasse as a big sand last open space in their borough of pit or sit at miniature tables and St. Pauli to fall victim to develop- chairs in order to eat, draw or ment. model. Adults prefer to drink or from some of the neigh- The concept was conceived as a bouring , while enjoying joint production by Christoph the view and the scent of flowers. Schäfer, ParkFiction and the landscape practice arbos. It transformed individual wishes, District: Hamburg-Mitte needs and dreams relating to living Location: Bernhard-Nocht-Straße/ conditions into professional Antonistraße designs, which ultimately were PT: S1/S3 Königstraße Size: 7,500 square metres implemented. The campaign and Specials: innovative design, intensive the subsequent planning process public consultation 1 1 The “tea-island” with its view of the ship builders Blohm & Voss. 2 Dogs have their own playground. 3 Locals tend flowers and in their private plots in the churchyard. 4 Schauermanns Park-Terrasse is a tranquil zone on the edge of the lively borough of St. Pauli. 5 Apple trees and scented roses adorn Schauermanns Park-Terrasse. 2

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4 5 22 Hamburg’s Green Heart Spielbudenplatz

For quite some time the Reeper- On a normal day though, the local bahn is no longer seen as Hamburg’s pubs and cafés use the space as red light district only, but also as a their outdoor dining area with hub for theatres and musicals. tables and chairs as well as palm Where stage abuts stage, it seems trees dotting the square. This is a logical to give plays a suitable good place to await a performance outdoor arena as well. in one of the several theatres or to rest after a long walk down the The design of the Spielbudenplatz Reeperbahn. by landscape architects Lützow 7 is simple and practical. Raised platforms with trees frame the oblong square at both ends and can be used as small stages. Steps lead to the platforms which double as seating areas. A large open space with two moveable stages lies at the centre. The two stages are made of metal and can District: Hamburg-Mitte be moved mechanically along Location: Reeperbahn PT: U3 St. Pauli continuous tracks, so that they can Size: 4,000 square metres “meet” at any place within the square. Specials: moveable Vattenfall-stages Hamburg’s Green Heart 23 Freizeitfläche Zirkusweg

Several generations under one riding wooden animals in the sandy (leafy) roof – that was the idea arena. behind the re-design and extension of the playground Zirkusweg into a The adolescents are invited to play versatile amenity space. table tennis or just to sit together. Those who prefer to withdraw Combining the adjacent storage from the activities will find tranquil area with the former playground areas with seats and lounge chairs opened the way for a novel design. in sunny or shady spots near the Citizens of all ages and interests slope. Here a variety of perennials were extensively consulted during offer interest to all senses all year the planning process. round.

Resulting in an amenity space, where different areas are interconnected but can be used District: Hamburg-Mitte separately: Near the entrance the Location: Zirkusweg/Helgoländer Allee young and the old are offered tables PT: U3 St. Pauli for board games and water features Size: 1,700 square metres Specials: only open during daylight, for various uses. Toddlers will amenities for the young and enjoy climbing the tree house or the old

1 Comfortable seats invite visitors to rest underneath old trees. 2 Children of all ages enjoy the imaginative play areas. 24 Hamburg’s Green Heart Jungfernstieg and Binnenalster

The sight of the Alster “lakes” at famous of them all is the Jungfern- the centre of the city surely is one stieg, which was re-designed in of the main attractions for citizens 2005/6. The site of the first Alster- and visitors of this Hanseatic city. pavillon of 1799 was left untouched – but it is the sixth building on this The Binnenalster (Inner Alster) is spot. the smaller one of the two “sisters”. Almost forming a square and Following the designs of Hamburg- bordered by clear architectural based landscape architects WES & lines, it works like a reflecting pool Partner with Poitiers Architekten, the for the noble buildings surrounding wide steps at the far end where it. Surprisingly this was not intended, turned into a kind of grandstand but evolved gradually. The first with moveable wooden seats, from stretch of the promenades to be which visitors can watch the hustle constructed was what we now call and bustle on the water. The road at Jungfernstieg. In 1235 a dam was the back was diverted to built for the miller Reese, so that he accommodate three rows of lime could operate his flour mill. During trees that shield the seats from the the course of time the “Reesen- traffic. New buildings, meant to damm” was renamed “Jungfern- resemble ice cubes, house a stieg” after the maids that strolled and the offices of Alster­touristik, along it. Opposite the Jungfernstieg which runs the famous “White Fleet” the 17th Century fortifications of Alster ferries. The signage has been divided the Alster “Lakes” into unified to ease orientation. Binnen- and Außenalster – today two bridges, the Lombards- and the The Binnenalster with its white Kennedybrücke, form the northern ferries and its tall fountain has edge of the Binnenalster. The next been turned into a stage – stretch to follow was the Neue particularly on special occasions. Jungfernstieg, originally designed as a promenade; it still offers pleasant walks underneath a leafy District: Hamburg-Mitte Location: Jungfernstieg avenue. This bit was so well PT: U1, U2, S1, S3 Jungfernstieg, received, that the present Ballin- Alsterdampfer damm was built opposite in the Size: 3,75 hectares Specials: restaurants, Alster ferries and same style in 1842. It still stands cruises, several events almost unaltered. The most Information: see page 138 1 1 The newly designed Jungfernstieg seen from the Alster. 2 The new glass cubes offer different aspects in changing light. 3 The Binnenalster seen from Lombardsbrücke. 4 Historical promenades frame the Binnenalster at Neuer Jungfernstieg and Ballindamm.

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3 4 26 Hamburg’s Green Heart Domplatz

From 2009 onwards history will can lie down underneath newly come alive at Domplatz – planted trees or sit on one of the 39 Hamburg’s new green square in the large seats. These square pieces of city centre: On one hand it is a custom-made furniture mark the green oasis in the city, on the other site of 39 of the cathedral’s pillars. it tracks the long history of the They are especially impressive at Mariendom (St. Mary’s Cathedral). night, when lit from the inside. One seat even has a small window and The place has a turbulent past. For offers a view of the only relic left of a very long time it was thought to the cathedral: The base of a pillar. be the site of the Hammaburg, a fortified castle that is seen as A footpath with steel slabs leads Hamburg’s foundation and has from Petrikirche (St. Peter’s church) given the town its name. For more across Domplatz towards than 500 years it was home to the HafenCity. The hollow sound of the important Mariendom, after which steel slabs on level with the steel the square is named. Originally the dams hint at the fact that there is cathedral was surrounded by more underneath and stimulate the fortifications; later the first urban imagination. buildings were erected around it. Following secularization the The combination of green oasis cathedral was demolished in 1805. with living history designed by From 1840 the school Johanneum Hamburg-based landscape was built on this site; it was architects Breimann & Bruun destroyed in World War II. After the matched the wishes of many people: war the empty square had been In an online forum a majority had reduced to a public car park. voted for a green re-design of Domplatz. The shape of the historical cathedral and its fortifications inspired the new design: A dam made of steel follows the contours of the embankments. Three of the five sections can be walked on and offer District: Hamburg-Mitte views of the square. At the centre a Location: Domstraße Entrance: open to the public simple lawn provides a tranquil PT: U3 Rathaus, U1 Meßberg place within the busy city. Here one Size: 5,450 square metres 1 1 Bird’s eye view of Domplatz. 2 Illuminated seats mark the sites of the demolished cathedral’s pillars. 3 Domplatz is a direct and green link between HafenCity and the Alster.

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3 28 Hamburg’s Green Heart Urban Parks, Squares and Promenades in HafenCity

Living at the water is most people’s Century port basins are being dream, especially when allied to transformed. The use of environ- green space. In HafenCity Hamburg mentally friendly building materials has the opportunity to fulfil this and renewable energy is strongly dream for many. recommended. On an area of 157 hectares centrally located flats for At the moment HafenCity still is 12,000 inhabitants are being Europe’s biggest inner city building constructed as well as 40,000 site. But some parts have already workplaces. Several public buildings been finished and give an impression for education, culture and recreation of what is in store: An urban village, add to the scene as well as parks and where living and working blend with squares, but also internationally culture and recreation. Already in important projects, such as the 2000 the HafenCity masterplan was (concert hall) or the decided. During the development of new Science Centre. Attractions with this new inner city quarter brown- maritime themes, such as the field sites adjacent to the 19th Internationale Maritime Museum

Speicherstadt

Magellan-Terrassen

Vasco-da-Gama-Platz Marco-Polo-Terrassen

Elbphilharmonie Kreuzfahrtterminal 29

Hamburg and visiting cruise ships as from west to east in a typical well as the charming historic sequence: pontoons in the historic warehouses already entice many port basins become floating tourists to this part of Hamburg. platforms that move with the tide. Watching the a new “city within the Terraced townsquares form the city” unfold, is a further point of connection to the land and find their interest that draws many locals to conclusion in green pocket parks on visit HafenCity as well as visitors. the other side of the street Großer Grasbrook, where they are safe from The development of this new inner flooding. In the northernmost basin, city quarter includes a specific the Sandtorhafen, the pontoon is concept for public open spaces: In home to approximately 20 historic the western section of the HafenCity steamers and sailing ships, forming Spanish landscape practice EMBT the Traditionsschiffhafen. Further have made the connection of water south, at Grasbrookhafen, a modern and land as well as the tidal changes marina for sporting boats will be their main topic. Open spaces run constructed in 2010/11. At the end of

Lohsepark

Science Center 30 Hamburg’s Green Heart

the Sandtorhafen, Magellan-Terrassen playground near the Kreuzfahrt- were completed in 2005. Light, terminal (Cruise Centre) is a rounded concrete elements and brick temporary solution only and will ornaments correspond with the find its permanent location in historic warehouses near this terraced Grasbrookpark. It has a treasure- square. Trees and curving light island theme and was partly designed features accentuate the design. by the local community. South of During the summer months the Marco-Polo-Terrassen a passage way square is used for varied activities will lead through the new Unilever from tango performances to readings House to the river Elbe and and children’s programmes. Strandkai from 2009. The design follows that of Marco-Polo-Terrassen The spacious Marco-Polo-Terrassen in order to make clear that this at the end of the Grasbrookhafen are private space is open to the public. similarly designed, but convey a more tranquil atmosphere. Grassy In the central part of HafenCity, hills and wooden loungers invite including Überseequartier, Magde- relaxation. Liquidambers, redwoods burger Hafen and St. Annenplatz, and willows provide shade. Special the open spaces were designed by the features at both squares are the faces Spanish practice BB+GG with Beth of the flood protection walls: Galí. Her choice of materials and the Whereas at Magellan-Terrassen the overall design relate to the historic yellow, ochre or red bricks depict surroundings. In front of the former , the ornaments at Marco-Polo- warehouse Kaispeicher B, now home Terrassen take their inspiration from to the new Internationale Maritime the nearby warehouses. The two Museum Hamburg, a first example pocket parks to the East of Großer has been accomplished: Stripes of Grasbrook offer grassy hills for grey and red granite are interspersed informal use as well as playgrounds with granite sets and terrazzo and meeting areas. Sandtorpark will tarmac. The generous promenade at open first; Grasbrookpark to the the Magdeburger Hafen basin will South will follow in 2012. The trees look similar and will link for both parks where selected to Jungfernstieg on the Alster with the provide interest all year round – from Elbe and the Science Centre. Along the blossom of cherry trees in spring this so-called “cultural mile” the to the autumn colour of Liquid- emphasis is meant to be on education ambers. The 850 square metres of and culture, interspersed with 1 1 Marco-Polo-Terrassen at Grasbrookhafen. 2 Evening at Magellan-Terrassen. 3 Dalmannkaipromenade is ideal for a leisurely stroll. services, dwellings and businesses. Überseeboulevard west of the Magdeburger Hafen forms the spine of the central part of HafenCity. Here Beth Galí and her practice were inspired by water: The boulevard meanders through the buildings like a river, opening into small squares here and there. 2

On the other side of the basin, the new HafenCity University will be built and its campus will form another desirable place on the water. This is also a major traffic junction, with a station of the new underground line and a pier for the harbour ferries from 2011. Lohsepark, the largest green space of the whole HafenCity will form the connection to the eastern section. Its detailed design will be decided in 3 32

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1 The Traditionsschiffhafen (with historic boats) at Sandtorkai. 2 At Dalmannkaitreppen four planes are in- clined towards the water of Grasbrookhafen. 3 The forecourt of the Internationale ­Maritime Museum Hamburg. 4 A generous promenade leads through Magdeburger Hafen and Überseequartier to the historic warehouse district.

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2009 by a competition. This park have their own identities – this is will connect the basin Ericusgraben achieved by using different plants or in the North with the Baakenhafen an individual approach to water, to in the South and will offer footpaths privacy versus publicity, tranquillity and green open space for sports and versus activity. What they all have in other activities for the local common is versatility of use, car-free community. It will also incorporate a connections and a sense of place. memorial: The former Avenues connect open spaces with Hannoverscher Bahnhof was situated buildings and are planted with here, from which more than 7,000 different tree species, following a Jews, Roma and Sinti were deported. tree masterplan. In total there will be ten kilometres of promenades along These open spaces of HafenCity are the quays, which will ease exploring supplemented with promenades at this new borough – just 800 metres the waterfront that double as flood from the town hall. protection and with small parks and courtyards. Two examples that have A total of approximately 36 percent already been implemented are of the landmass in HafenCity will be Dalmannkaitreppen with their open space for use by the general terraced connection to the water and public, in combination with the tree studded lawns as well as Vasco- typical remains from the former port da-Gama-Platz at Dalmannkai. This they will characterize this new town square offers relaxing lunch quarter. breaks to local dwellers and workers, and its basketball field is a favourite of youths. Green courtyards between the buildings are retreats for the local community and protected play areas for children. Nonetheless they allow views of the water. District: Hamburg-Mitte The open spaces of HafenCity Location: former part of the port south of the warehouses contribute largely to the image of the PT: U3 Baumwall, Metrobus 3,4,6 borough; they create identities for its Size: 157 hectares individual quarters and link to Specials: HafenCity InfoCenter at the Kesselhaus, viewing tower neighbouring boroughs. Therefore Viewpoint the new open spaces are designed to Information: see page 139

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Green Quarters

Hamburg is widely known as an The oldest of these parks is attractive, green town. In addition to Innocentiapark, which was built in the large and well-known parks the many 1880s. At the beginning of the 20th smaller local parks, the numerous Century large public parks, providing playgrounds and particularly the diverse options for use followed. But approximately 245,000 street trees even today new parks are being built contribute to this reputation. Lime and or old ones adapted to accommodate plane trees, horse chestnuts and other new requirements by the local tree species not only beautify the population. In combination with the roads, they also provide desirable many playgrounds they form a local shade in hot summers, help improve environment that invites relaxation at air quality and play an important role the weekend or in the evenings as as green corridors for mankind and well as activities in fresh air and nature. contact with nature – in these times that is more important than ever. All of Hamburg’s districts possess various green spaces – from significant and large parks, such as Altonaer Volkspark to medium-sized ones, such as Hammer Park, to the small parks in densely populated boroughs. They all contribute to the quality of life in this town. 36 Green Quarters From Platz der Republik to Altonaer Balkon

Hamburg has never been a feudal Century. After a brief relocation of residence and was always proud to the fountain in the 1970s and its call itself a “Free City”. Altona on restoration (1998 – 2000) it is now the other hand used to be an out- back in its old glory on Platz der post of the Danish Court and later Republik, surrounded by old trees, a border town of the Prussian flower borders, play-grounds and Empire. At Platz der Republik it seats as well as a boules ground. demonstrates its feudal elegance, even though the name suggests The neo-classical town hall (Alto- otherwise. The nearby Altonaer naer Rathaus), a part of the historic Balkon offers breathtaking views of railway station of 1844 forms the the Port of Hamburg. southern boundary of the square. During the refurbishment from Platz der Republik was created at railway station to town hall the the end of the 19th Century, when sculptors Karl Garbers and Ernst the old railway station was moved Barlach created the new frieze on further north. The square is a typical the gable. example of the times: It was used to connect the surrounding public Altonaer Balkon is situated on the buildings in grand style – the then other side of the . This town hall (now district authority), open space is an important link the Altonaer Museum and the new between the footpath above the railway station. After several Elbe (Elbuferwanderweg) and the changes, the square once again fish market as well as Grünzug boasts a formal design. The impos- Neu-Altona (a green corridor). ing fountain, Stuhlmannbrunnen, Recently an imaginative new is named after its donor Günther playground was built here. Ludwig Stuhlmann, founder of the local water works. It was erected District: Altona from 1898 to 1900 after designs by Location: Platz der Republik, Altonaer Berlin-based sculptor Paul Tümpe. Balkon: Max-Brauer-Allee; The main figures of the fountain Christianskirche: Klopstock- strasse are two centaurs fighting for a fish PT: S1, S11, S3 Altona caught in a net. This is meant to Specials: view of the port from Altonaer symbolize the quarrel between the Balkon, Stuhlmannbrunnen, Altonaer Rathaus, Altonaer towns of Hamburg and Altona Museum about fishing rights since the 16th Information: see page 139 1 1 Platz der Republik. 2 The mounted statue of Kaiser Wilhelm still recalls the square’s previous name “Kaiserplatz”. 3 View of the Elbe from Altonaer Balkon. 4 The restored fountain: Stuhlmannbrunnen. 5 The grave of the famous poet Friedrich Gottlieb Klopstock can be found at the nearby churchyard (Christianskirchhof).

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4 5 38 Green Quarters Square “Am Born“/ “Kemal-Altun-Platz“

Where only a few decades ago the well as for other small events. A cogwheels of the Menck & Ham- fenced off dogs’ playground makes brock factory were turning, today sure that potential conflicts with children go round on carousels. other users do not arise. In addition People of all ages meet here – the the design relates to the place’s square has become the navel of this history: the central area and the quarter. raised lawn are shaped like two big cogwheels, and some elements from Since the factory was closed, the site the 1990s layout have also been had lain bare in the 1980s, but in a kept. An adventure playground borough like , where public abuts the square. At one entrance an open spaces and playgrounds are old digger, formerly belonging to the very scarce, this did not last long: A factory at this site is tended to by first design in the 1990s created a the borough’s archive (Stadtteil- diverse open space. The layout had archiv Ottensen). They have also not been very efficient though, but erected a board explaining some of because of the lack of alternatives the place’s history. the space was well used. The unofficial name “Kemal-Altun- This local square is a good example Platz“ goes back to those days. for successful co-operation between the community and the planners at In 2006 a new concept was the local authorities. implemented in co-operation with the local community. It offers something for all ages and interests: The new design of the 6,000 square metre site is more generous and open. It incorporates a sheltered playground for toddlers with imaginative equipment, a playing field with an artificial surface and walls for graffiti, a streetball-field District: Altona with original seats and a lawn for Location: Große Brunnenstraße/Am Born relaxation. Entrance: open to the public PT: Metrobus 1/Bus 150 Size: 6,000 square metres The multi-functional central area Specials: sporting facilities, playground, can be used by the local circus as dogs’ playground 1 1 The raised lawn for relaxation. 2 Cog-wheel patterns recall the site’s history. 3 A central area for events of all kinds. 4 The imaginative and well-loved playground. 5 The playing field and the legendary wall with graffiti. 6 The Streetball field with original seats.

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5 6 40 Green Quarters Grünzug Neu-Altona and Wohlerspark

The green corridor of Grünzug strong division between pedestrians Neu-Altona offers interesting and cars is typical of the 1950s – insights into Altona’s history. tunnels and bridges connect the different stretches of the park. In The fish market is one of Altona’s later phases modern play areas, a oldest squares and is still used as a café and seats were added. market place. It has a funnel- shaped opening towards the river To the north lies Wohlerspark. The Elbe and is framed be various historic pattern of this former restaurants and bistros. cemetery (Friedhof Norderreihe) dating from 1830/31is still Going north from here, the ground recognizable: The main feature rises steeply towards the baroque being a cross-shaped lime avenue; church of St. Trinitatis. Opposite some of the important tombs also on the other side of the Königs- remain intact (e.g. Graf von strasse another historically Blücher-Altona). This unusual park important area abuts: The Jewish is mainly used for quiet relaxation cemetery was started in 1611 by and contemplation. Portuguese Jews living in Altona and until 1877 more and more German Jews also used it. Despite the National Socialists many graves are still intact. The cemetery can only be visited by appointment.

District: Altona To the east of this historic site a Length: 2 kilometres green corridor starts that later becomes the Walter-Möller-Park. Fischmarkt/Kirche St. Trinitatis Location: Große Elbstraße In this stretch one can still find PT: S1 Königstraße traces of the 1950s: Since large areas had been destroyed by bombs Walter-Möller-Park in World War II, post-war town Location: between Louise-Schroeder- Straße and Thadenstraße planners saw this as an opportunity PT: S1 Königstraße/Reeperbahn to implement model designs. The famous landscape architect Prof. Wohlerspark Location: between Thadenstraße and Herta Hammerbacher designed a Max-Brauer-Allee green, open housing area. The PT: S11 Holstenstraße 1 1 Historic lime avenue in Wohlerspark. 2 Relics of the former cemetery (Friedhof Norderreihe), now Wohlerspark. 3 View from St. Trinitatis towards the Elbe. 4 A favourite haunt on Sunday mornings: the Fischmarkt. 5 The baroque church of St. Trinitatis.

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4 5 42 Green Quarters Altonaer Volkspark

Altonaer Volkspark appears to be garden (1930 – 32) as well as some either an extensive, hilly wood in model allotments and a large the city or a flower garden or a sporting arena. Some of the sporting area, depending from existing woods and moors were where you approach it. But it is also opened to the public, but in a worthwhile getting to know the restrained way. After World War II other parts as well. the park was used as a source for wood for burning. Parts of the The area originally used to be a moor areas were filled with rubble, wood, the northern parts bogs and but from 1950 onwards restoration moors. Some sections were used as of the park began. gravel pits or quarries. Even though the idea of a central park only Apart from walks in the woods, materialized in 1894/95 the town of visits to the many playgrounds, the Altona had already started buying garden theatre or the allotments, land some years before that. At the the dahlia garden and the well- time Altona was one of the most tended flower gardens are the main densely populated German cities, attractions of Hamburg’s biggest much more so than nearby park. They even draw visitors from Hamburg, and it badly needed parks. further affield. Today Altonaer Volkspark also houses the Color- The final design for the large public Line-, the HSH-Nordbank- and the park only emerged in 1913, once Volksbank-Arenas. Sporting and Ferdinand Tutenberg had become cultural events are attractions in head of Altona’s Parks’ their own rights. Department. Implementation already started the year after with the extensive central lawn and its

200 framing lime trees. Work was District: Altona suspended during World War I. Location: Luruper Chaussee Tutenberg used the time to amend PT: S3, S21 Stellingen Bus 2, 3, 22, 180 the plan in 1916 and also added a Size: 170 hectares without the cemetery. Work continued in 1918 sporting arenas – resulting in a Schulgarten (an Specials: Dahliengarten (dahlia garden), educational garden for local Schulgarten (educational garden), Heckentheater pupils), other flower gardens, an (garden theatre), Hauptfried- arboretum, a rock garden, a dahlia hof (main cemetery) 1 1,2 The dahlia garden in Altonaer Volkspark is one of the most important of its kind. 3 The Schulgarten (educational garden) shows the possible use of perennials. 4 Vista from the viewing point Tutenberg (war memorial) with formal hedges. 5 Old trees overhanging shady paths form a contrast to formal garden design.

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4 5 44 Green Quarters Innocentiapark

If you are looking for green inner The original design as a landscape city flair, you will find it around garden is still recognizable today: this typical square in the borough Trees and shrubs planted as a green of . belt along the perimeter shelter the park from the surrounding roads, The name of the park refers to Pope but allow views of the neighbouring Innocence IV, who had legitimized townhouses’ beautiful architecture. the former landowner, the monastery Herwardeshude in the Two hills with viewpoints were mid-13th Century. The monastery designed to offer sights of the park, gave the borough its name and but have become slightly owned extensive land in this area, overgrown. Extensive, curving which was originally used as lawns form the remainder of the farmland; for example sheep grazed park; they give an impression of the area of today’s park. The space and can be used in many history of the monastery would ways. Seats surrounding the lawns make a good story in itself, but for invite visitors to sit and linger. here it should suffice to say that it Whereas in the past a naturalistic became the St.-Johannis-Kloster pond used to add interest, today (St. John’s monastery). there is play equipment.

After Hamburg had outsized its fortifications in the 19th Century the monastery sold its farm Harvestehude to a consortium, which was only granted planning permission under the condition that parts of the area had to be turned into parks. One of these parks is District: Eimsbüttel Innocentiapark, designed in Location: Brahmsallee/Innocentiastraße/ 1884/85 as a square in keeping Oberstraße/Parkallee with the elegant townhouses PT: U3 Hoheluftbrücke, U1 Klosterstern surrounding it. The idea for the Size: 3 hectares square design came from London Specials: example of an English square and fits well into the grid of streets. surrounded by late 19th- Century buildings, In the mid-19th Century similar 1950s blocks of flats: squares were also built in Paris. Grindelhochhäuser 1 1 The lawns invite visitors to rest or practice T’ai Chi and Qi Gong. 2 Noble townhouses surround the park. 3 Female figure by the sculptor Curt Beck- mann underneath oak trees. 4 The park offers picturesque aspects even in winter.

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3 4 46 Green Quarters Lindenpark

This park at the heart of the giraffe carousel, a tree house and Eimsbüttel-District is not only a much more makes time pass all too car-free link, but also a true quickly. A boules ground, a playing paradise for play. field with an artificial surface and a streetball field give youths and Before its re-design (until 2003) the adults room for sports and activity. park was used very little. Based on To make skating more pleasant the intensive public consultation the footpaths were built a smooth landscape practices EGL and GFP asphalt surface. Seats invite people designed an inviting, multi- to linger at the fountain, among functional park with attractions for beautifully planted flower borders people of all ages: In the “jungle and at the entrances. The large playground” there are opportu- lawn is much loved for relaxing nities for play and relaxation for moments. children and youths, e.g. a meeting place in a hut, a large climbing

frame made of ropes and a District: Eimsbüttel tunnelled slope. The “Robinson Location: between Bellealliancestraße playground” has been designed for and Altonaer Straße PT: U2 Christuskirche smaller children. A playing Size: 2 hectares landscape complete with swings, a Specials: diverse opportunities for play Green Quarters 47 Bewegungsräume Lenzsiedlung

The borough of is better the car-free network of cycle routes known for Hamburg’s main zoo and footpaths. The existing (Hagenbecks Tierpark) than for its community and youth centre now green spaces, but this local park opens onto a new space facing the has won a prize. buildings. The green space is open and inviting; groundmodelling Whereas the up to 14-stories tall creates different rooms for play and blocks of flats of the Lenzsiedlung activity. In addition there is a went up in the 1970s, the proposed playing field with an artificial lawn, park was only partly implemented. a skating rink, a streetball field and In 2000 the existing green spaces the beach volleyball field of the no longer fitted the requirements of local sports club Grün-Weiß the community, many of them Eimsbüttel. children, youths and migrants.

The new design was done as part of a government programme “Spiel- District: Eimsbüttel raum Stadt” with intenive public Location: Julius-Vosseler-Straße 193 consultation. Landscape architects PT: U2 Lutterothstraße Size: 1.42 hectares Andreas Bunk and Outside Specials: Opportunities for sports and integrated the green space within play 48 Green Quarters Wacholderpark – Öffentlicher Garten Fuhlsbüttel

This little jewel of a garden, dense red maple wood, the other a designed by the famous landscape light birch grove. A playground, architect Leberecht Migge, is accompanied by seats in the sunny situated near the underground recesses of a cut hedge, still lies station Fuhlsbüttel in the between the two green rooms. The Hamburg-North District. sunken flower garden sadly no longer exists; it was situated near Like the 19th Century Innocentia- the playground and was meant to park in the borough of Harveste- offer enjoyment and education at hude, this garden was also part of the same time. It could probably be a new development. In connection restored. Unfortunately the former with the construction of the main entrance and one corner of underground around 1910 the the park were lost to car parking surrounding area was developed near the underground station in the and a new park was designed for 1960s. the community. With its simple, multi-functional layout, this park is Despite this the main structures of an early and typical example of the this garden still remain intact, so so-called Reformgartenkunst at the that it is an exceptional example of beginning of the 20th Century. its kind and known to professionals Migge himself called it the “first all over Europe. This little gem is German park for play”. always worth a visit.

The centrepiece of this one-hectare park is a sunny meadow, deliberately intersected by tracks. On this meadow visitors of all ages can play sports or rest. Romantic lime arbours frame the eastern and southern boundaries. They were designed to allow strolls in the shade and offer views through District: Hamburg-Nord Location: Wacholderweg/Bergkoppel- arcaded “windows”. In the western weg section of the garden two green Entrance: opposite the underground “rooms” were created to offer station PT: U 1 Fuhlsbüttel sheltered seating, each with a Size: 1 hectare different character – one is a small, Specials: historic lime arbour 1 1 The pollarded lime trees have formed a romantic arbour for almost a hundred years. 2 The light birch grove gives an impression of the original formal design. 3 This bird’s-eye view is an original drawing by the park’s designer Leberecht Migge.

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3 50 Green Quarters Hammer Park

This public park in the borough of produced a park that offered Ham- Hamm could rightly be called the burg’s constantly growing population smaller sister of the large Ham- active or tranquil recreation near burger Stadtpark in the borough of their dwellings. Linne also planned Winterhude. Its creator, Otto Linne, several garden rooms for different was one of the designers of the uses – from a hedge garden bigger Stadtpark. decorated with flowers to an Old- People’s-Garden to large areas of Hammer Park can look back onto a woodland and meadows or a long and changing history. In the children’s beach as well as tennis 17th Century this was the site of a courts and playing fields. farm outside Hamburg’s city gates. In 1773 the wealthy merchant The park was heavily damaged Jacques de Chapeaurouge bought during World War II and in post- the farm and turned it into a manor war times, but it has been recon- house with park. About 50 years structed since the 1950s and partly later his son-in-law, Karl Sieveking, added to: A Rose and a Chess re-designed the park that had been Garden were built, followed by a destroyed during the French miniature golf course (1957) and a occupation. The new design was Herb Garden (1986). Landscape carried out in the fashionable style architects Dittloff und Paschburg of a landscape garden. Sieveking have produced a report in order to was influenced by his uncle Baron get a clearer view of the different Voght, who had just had his own layers and how they can be land designed – today’s Jenischpark maintained. in . Remains of the landscape garden can still be seen The park is well used owing to its in Hammer Park, for example the diversity and is an interesting hill in the northwestern corner. alternative to the town’s bigger public parks. By 1914 the site was owned by the City of Hamburg and was again District: Hamburg-Mitte re-designed. A comparatively large Location: zwischen Hammer Stein- public park was created in the damm und Voghtstraße formal style of the Reformgarten- PT: U3 Hammer Kirche Size: 16 hectares kunst. Hamburg’s first Head of the Specials: hedge garden, opportunities Parks’ Department Otto Linne for sports, tobogganing hill 1 1 The Hammer Park offers Hamburg’s population in the eastern parts of the town recreation on the doorstep. 2 The planting in the hedge garden reflects the seasons. 3 The former 18th Century vineyard is used for tobogganing in the winter. 4 Formal avenues invite visitors for a stroll.

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River Landscape Elbe and National Park Hamburgisches Wattenmeer

The river Elbe is Hamburg’s lifeline. It As the general landscape changes is closely connected with the origins along Elbe, so do the green spaces. of the town and its port has given Where the dynamics of low and high Hamburg the name of a “Gateway to tide continue, more natural shores the World“. During its course through have developed. The rare tidal the metropolis the river changes its freshwater flats, the carrs and riparian character from the port to the estuary forests as well as reed beds offer on the coast. valuable habitats for plants and wildlife. On the steep slopes in the It runs through the open marshes in West the creative touch of mankind is the East, mainly used as farmland, more obvious. Here are numerous bifurcates into Norder- and Süderelbe historic with their parks dating to with the main parts of the industrial different eras. The footpath along the port in their middle and continues Elbe (Elbwanderweg) invites people to re-united to the cliffs in the West, view and experience its diverse nature where the most beautiful parks and culture. Finally, just off the Elbe appear like pearls on a string. estuary lies a maritime habitat: The National Park Hamburgisches Watten- meer, including its islands , Scharhörn und Nigehörn, is one of the most significant breeding and resting places for water birds internationally. 54 River Landscape Elbe and National Park Hamburgisches Wattenmeer Hirschpark, Baurs Park and the Nature Reserves Neßsand and Mühlenberger Loch

Hirschpark and Baurs Park are just Deer still live in the park, but in a two of the many parks appearing fenced off area. There is a small like the pearls on a string along the viewing point with seats on the cliff northern bank of the river Elbe. facing the river. Footpaths intersect Situated high on the geest’s ridge, the whole park; they offer enticing they offer long distance views views of the Elbe, of the historic across the river – on a clear day as village and the park’s far as the Harburger Berge (hills to interior. the South). Further west lies Baurs Park, Hirschpark was laid out from 1620 named after G. F. Baur, who onwards by A. Oldehorst. The bought land from eleven previous impressive double lime avenue in owners to form one new estate. the park still dates to that time. At French garden designer Joseph the end of the 18th Century Johann Ramée created a landscape park in Caesar IV. Godeffroy bought the the late English style for Baur. estate and commissioned the then Those parks are characterized by little-known architect C. F. Hansen an abundance of garden features. to design a white manor house. Accordingly a Chinese Pagoda, Today the building is home to a several small temples, a Japanese- ballet school. The majority of the style umbrella, a folly of a castle park was re-designed in the fashion ruin, a grotto with mirrors and of an English landscape garden to many more features adorned this fit with the manor house: open park. Some of these are documen- meadows, imposing trees, one of ted by paintings, but none of them them a huge sycamore, picturesque exist any longer. This is manly due clumps of trees as well as wooded to the fact that the park was areas and viewing points. But some divided in the 1920s and new formal flower gardens were also houses were built. created: A small cottage garden in front of the present-day restaurant Some of the historic viewing points “Witthüs” and a larger garden, and the promenade on the framed by scented azaleas, which riverbank still exist though and used to be called Garden of offer spectacular views of the Elbe Antiquities. with the nature reserves 1

2 3 1 View of the island Neßsand from the vantage point in Hirschpark. 2 Double lime avenue in Hirschpark. 3 Hirschpark is named after its deer (Hirsch). 4 Idyllic cottage garden in front of the Witthüs. 5 Historic balustrade at the promenade underneath Baurs Park. 6 Katharinenhof in Baurs Park is a neo- classical manor house. 4

5 6 Alster: Zwischen Lombardsbrücke und Duvenstedter Brook

1 The nature reserve Mühlenberger Loch offers migrating birds food and rest. 2 View of the northern river bank from Neßsand.

Mühlenberger Loch and Neßsand, District: Altona the Airbus factory and – in clear Baurs Park weather – the Harburger Berge. Location: between Mühlenberger Weg, Strandweg, and Baurs Park The Mühlenberger Loch is an PT: S1, S11 Blankenese Size: 8 hectares important area of tidal freshwater Specials: Manor house „Katharinen- flats and a feeding and resting hof“, vantage points with ground for a large number of good views of the Elbe migrating birds. These birds can be Hirschpark watched from the vantage points of Location: between Elbchaussee, the parks’ viewing platforms. Mühlenberg, and In de Bost Entrance: Mühlenberg PT: S1, S11 Blankenese Fläche: 26 ha Size: 26 hectares Specials: double lime avenue, manor house, view of Mühlenberger Loch, restaurant Witthüs

Nature Reserves Neßsand and Mühlen- berger Loch Location: Neßsand: opposite Witten- bergen; Mühlenberger Loch: opposite Blankenese, accessible by boat only Size: 650 hectares Specials: important feeding ground for migrating birds 2 River Landscape Elbe and National Park Hamburgisches Wattenmeer 57 Jenischpark incorporating the Nature Reserve Flottbektal

The Jenischpark not only offers a aspects with social responsibility. beautiful environment with views of Agricultural use was part of the the river Elbe and two museums, picturesque scenery, which also but is also one of the most included small areas of woodland important landscape gardens in and clumps of trees. The owner, the . Most of the workmen and visitors were meant paths that lead through the park to experience different atmospheres were designed in the early 19th through diverse design of the park’s Century to give diverse, pleasant sections. impressions – a real treat. Following the acquisition of Baron Inspired by the English poet William Voght’s estate by the merchant and Shenstone and his estate The senator Martin Johann Jenisch from Leasowes near Birmingham, the Hamburg, the white manor house in merchant from Jenischpark, designed by Hamburg- Hamburg created an expansive based architect Franz Gustav idealistic landscape in the late 18th Forsmann, was built from 1831 to Century – his “ornamented farm”. 1833. Jenisch also commissioned It combined aesthetic and economic the garden designer Johann 58 River Landscape Elbe and National Park Hamburgisches Wattenmeer

Heinrich Ohlendorff to change the wooden bridge and the “Eierhütte”, layout of the park and add glass- a hut in the same style; vistas were houses and formal gardens. opened again and footpaths were Perennials and bedding plants still restored. These measures contribute flower profusely in this northern further to Jenischpark’s ranking as part of the garden. Some exotic one of Hamburg’s favourite trees relate to the historic fashion attractions and as an important for plant collecting and illustrate the listed garden. commercial links to foreign countries at that time. The course of the Flottbek (a small river) almost divides the Jenischpark When in 1927 Jenisch’s inheritors into two halves. The river valley is intended to divide and sell the the only interruption in the geest’s estate, the town of Altona rented ridge along this stretch of the river the park and opened it to the Elbe. The Flottbek is the last natural public. In 1939 the City of watercourse draining the geest; and Hamburg, to which Altona its lower section is influenced by the belonged by then, bought tide. The small river with its Jenischpark. The manor house accompanying banks covered in Jenischhaus has since been turned typical plant species has partly been into a museum and is well worth a designated as a nature reserve. In visit, as is the nearby Ernst-Barlach- addition to 80-year-old Willows, Haus with its modern art Butterbur, Sorrel and Buttercups exhibition. grow here. And in the adjacent water meadows large swathes of The present day Jenischpark Lady’s Smock draw a pink veil roughly covers the area of the across the landscape in May. former Süderpark (southern park), only a small part of Caspar Voght’s originally much larger estate. Here District: Altona the character of the landscape Location: Klein Flottbek garden remained largely intact and Entrance: Baron-Voght-Straße, Hochrad, Elbchaussee, Holztwiete has been further enhanced since the PT: S1, S11 Klein Flottbek, mid-1990s, following a landscape Elbe-Ferry 64 management study. As part of this Size: 42 hectares Specials: museums Jenischhaus and report some of the park’s features Ernst-Barlach-Haus were re-constructed, such as a rustic Information: see page 139 1

2 3 1 The abundant vegetation along the river Flottbek contrasts with the landscaped park. 2 Entrance gate dating from 1906. 3 The neo-classical Jenischhaus has been turned into a museum, where one can experience the lavish lifestyle of past generations. 4 The re-constructed rustic hut “Eierhütte“. 5 Flowering Meadowsweet on the banks of the river Flottbek.

4 5 60 River Landscape Elbe and National Park Hamburgisches Wattenmeer Strandweg, Elbhöhenwander- weg and Römischer Garten

Promenades and footpaths along Blankenese one can climb a hill to the riverbanks are the “string” for the viewpoint Bismarckstein and en the pearl necklace of parks along route catch a glimpse of Schinkels the Elbe; some are close to the Park. If one prefers to save one’s water’s edge, some are up on the energy for a very real jewel among geest’s ridge and offer long distance the pearl necklace, one ought to views. One of the parks on the remain on Strandweg until geest is the Italianate Römische Falkensteiner Weg. Just after the Garten. crossing steps lead up to the Italianate Römische Garten. The lower footpath, the Elbufer- weg, starts at the Port of Hamburg Römischer Garten with its three and continues uninterrupted to terraced parts is so-called due to its , a small town west of Mediterranean appearance. The Hamburg. The path evolved in garden originates from stretches from the 1930s onwards. approximately 1880-90. Its owner Coming from the Port some of the Anton Julius Richter had been first parks are Altonaer Balkon, inspired by travels to Italy. After Heinepark and Donnerspark, the banking family Warburg followed by the small gardens of bought the estate a garden theatre, the houses in the borough of a rose garden, a lily pond and Övelgönne. Further west lie flower borders on dry stone walls Schröders Elbpark, Hindenburg- were added well into the 1920s. park and Jenischpark. The emigration of the Warburg family during the Third Reich was Underneath Baurs Park a a first step towards decline; a fate it promenade with a remarkable shares with many similar estates. historic balustrade leads further The estate was returned to the west. This stretch of the Elbe- family after the war, but Römischer wanderweg originally belonged to Garten was given to the City of Baurs Park, and accordingly it was Hamburg in 1951 under the beautifully constructed. Above condition that it should be kept and Strandweg further inland towards maintained. In 1991 the garden’s Blankenese are Hessepark and history was researched with a view Gosslers Park – two smaller to listing, and a park management landscape gardens. On the other study was undertaken, leading to side of the historic village the restoration of some of its parts. 1 1 Italian impressions high above the Elbe: the garden theatre in Römischer Garten. 2 The artistically pruned garlands of the hedge. 3 View through the hedge to the hills south of Hamburg. 4 Recently restored: lily pond and flower borders. 5 A new semicircular seat following an historic design.

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4 5 62 River Landscape Elbe and National Park Hamburgisches Wattenmeer

1 Süllberg in Blankenese. The garden is like a well-conducted 2 Strandweg is suitable for long walks down play and beyond comparison. It has the Elbe even in winter. 3 The dolls’ museum in Sven-Simon-Park been opened to the public and high above the Elbe. offers the most stunning views 4 Steep steps lead up to the viewing point through a garland-shaped Thuja Bismarckstein. hedge of the Elbe valley 30 metres below and across it towards the distant hills. Occasionally the garden theatre is used for small performances.

Further towards the West the Elbhöhenwanderweg meanders

1 along the edge of the geest. Through rhododendron and pine trees or densely wooded stretches it offers lovely views of the Elbe or allows glimpses of some of the old gardens bordering it. The view from the Puppenmuseum (dolls’ museum) in Sven-Simon-Park is particularly beautiful. The park 2

3 4 View from Bismarckstein of the island Neßsand.

used to be the private garden of the Heide, which is described in a famous German publisher Axel separate chapter. Springer. The museum and an art gallery are situated in an impressive Along the whole stretch of the country house. The white , riverbank several small cafés and designed by Karl Schneider in a kiosks offer rest and sustenance. simple modernist style, was built in 1923 and is one of the most important 20th Century buildings in all of Hamburg. The garden was Elbhöhenwanderweg/Strandweg Location: from Mühlenberg down- designed in the 1950s by Hamburg’s stream to Wedel well-known landscape designer PT: Bus 286, 189, 48, 49 Gustav Lüttge – with long vistas in Length: approx. 5 kilometres Specials: stunning views, Sven-Simon- the landscape garden and stone- Park with dolls’ museum and walls and flower borders near the art gallery buildings. The park has fallen into Information: see page 139 decay and awaits restoration. Römischer Garten Location: Elbhöhenwanderweg/Falken- From here to Hamburg’s western steiner Ufer boundary the Elbhöhenwanderweg Entrance: Elbhöhenwanderweg PT: Bus 48 (raised footpath) runs through the Specials: garden theatre, formal gardens, nature reserve Wittenbergener garland-shaped Thuja hedge 64 River Landscape Elbe and National Park Hamburgisches Wattenmeer Nature Reserves Wittenbergener Heide/ Elbwiesen and Schnaakenmoor

Two much-loved and very different stretch of natural beach in Hamburg nature reserves are situated near is located right at the water’s edge; Hamburg’s western boundary with and it is heavily used not only during neighbouring Schleswig-. the summer. Just inland the nature The two reserves are similar in their reserve Elbwiesen abuts. These combination of dry and wet habitats, meadows are only used in a limited but the location of Wittenbergener way: The grass is cut only once a year Heide and Elbwiesen on the river- in July – by this means a rare habitat banks on the one hand and the is maintained. In addition to Reed proximity of Schnakenmoor to the Mannagrass, Butterbur, Angelica and woods of Forst Klövensteen on the Comfrey rare Snake’s-heads grow other already hint at the differences. here. In these wetland areas amphibians such as frogs and The Wittenbergener Heide and Common Toads find a suitable Elbwiesen are very diverse. The last habitat. Bordering the meadows or

Natural beach and water meadows underneath Wittenbergener Heide. In the nature reserve: white dunes with Heather, Birch and pine trees. the beach respectively are the dramatic bizarrely shaped trees were originally cliffs of the Wittenbergener Ufer. In used as feed for farm animals. The some parts beech trees grow on the dunes were also caused by intensive slopes. Whereas freshly eroded parts logging and erosion. The absolutely are left bare. This is an ideal place for straight lines of the Sand Sedge, a the quick, emerald-green lizards to pioneer for re-vegetation, can be seen sunbathe. on the otherwise bare sand.

On top of the slope the landscape’s The nature reserve Schnaakenmoor character changes – heathland is situated further inland, in the dominates here. Until the Middle Ages cherished wood Forst Klövensteen. The the area was densely wooded, but it landscape was originally made of was so intensely used that the wood dunes and moors, which were exploited has vanished almost completely. since the Middle Ages. The trees on the Instead heathland developed, some- dunes were logged; Heather and bare times intersected by oak copses or sand followed. But in the 19th Century dunes. Heather, copses and dunes are the dunes were re-planted with (fir) typical habitats created through human trees. Peat from the moors was also use. Heather can only survive, if trees used and the land subsequently turned and shrubs are kept at bay, which was into farmland or woods. originally caused by logging and grazing and is now done according to a The diversity of the original flora and management plan. Copses with their fauna declined due to intensive use, but Alster: Zwischen Lombardsbrücke und Duvenstedter Brook

Das Moorgebiet ist für viele seltene Pflanzen- und Tierarten ein wertvoller Lebensraum.

In restored moor areas bigger trees and shrubs gradually give way to the originally open landscape. some natural “islands” were left. interesting and it is a pleasure to be These were employed as starting in beautiful surroundings. The two points for restoring the landscape. nature reserves are not for nothing Whereas the management favours favourites for weekend outings and heather and grass on the dry dunes, are well known outside Hamburg. the wet areas are meant to return to moors. Because of their close proximity it is possible to distinguish Scotch Heather (on dry soil) from Bog Heather (on moors) within one nature reserve. Further to this one District: Altona can see rare wildlife such as snakes, frogs and toads as well as over 100 Nature Reserve Wittenbergener Heide/ species of butterfly. In addition Wood Elbwiesen Location: Wittenbergener Weg Larks and Little Ringed Plover sing PT: Bus 189, 286 and Hobbies hunt in this area. Size: 39 hectares Specials: Heathland, dunes, water Whereas in Wittenbergen biodiversity meadows has been increased by the sensitive Nature Reserve Schnaakenmoor use through man, the intensive use in Location: Klövensteenweg/Feldweg 84 Schnaakenmoor has caused damage, PT: S1 Rissen Size: 100 hectares which is in the process of being Specials: diverse landscape with heath- rectified. The comparison is land and moors River Landscape Elbe and National Park Hamburgisches Wattenmeer 67 Rüschpark

Rüschpark is situated on the To compensate for the extension of southern banks of the Elbe, next the Airbus factory a park was door to the Airbus factory and has created in the early 1990s, but had its own pier. The views of the river, to be altered again in 2004 to the opposite bank and passing ships accommodate the lengthening of attract visitors from all over the runway. Today the park Hamburg. consists of two parts: The one near the river is inspired by nature, Until the 1970s this area belonged dotted with a few sunny seats and to the shipbuilder Deutsche Werft. an area for beach-volleyball. The Some buildings and other remnants second part, on the other side of of the factory are still recognizable. the street Leegerwall, is more The Deutsche Werft used to be of intensely used. It boasts a huge importance for Hamburg; but playground, a sporting field, a it also had its dark side: During skating rink and a formal garden. World War II forced labourers and prisoners from concentration camps District: Hamburg-Mitte had to work here – a memorial has Location: Finks Weg been erected in their honour in the PT: Bus 17, 47, 150, 251, Ferry 64 to Teufelsbrück southern section of the park. Size: 11.4 hectares Specials: view of the hilly northern riverbank 68 River Landscape Elbe and National Park Hamburgisches Wattenmeer Nature Reserve Heuckenlock

The nature reserve Heuckenlock limited way, allowing Marsh Mari- with its “jungle” of trees and golds and the rare Snake’s-head to diverse tidal freshwater flats as well grow. Two plants, Oenanthe as very rare species feels a bit like a conioides and Deschampsia collection of curiosities. wibeliana, are even endemic to the tidal freshwater flats of the Elbe. The location on a peninsula is special in itself. At Bunthausspitze The almost untouched nature in the Elbe bifurcates into Norder- this reserve not only brings forth and Süderelbe. This was an unique plants, but also attracts rare important site for our ancestors; animals: Apart from Stork, Bittern, here Hamburg gained control of Heron and Cormorant, one can see the Süderelbe and therefore became and hear songbirds, such as the a significant port. bright yellow Golden Oriole. Furthermore there are large numbers Otherwise the bog was left to itself. of insects and fish in this area. The only major impact was the construction of the motorway in 1939, dissecting the existing nature reserve. Despite this the area is of importance for wildlife on a European scale.

From Bunthausspitze a footpath leads along the embankment to the motorway A1. Whereas a circular walk guides visitors through the nature reserve, crossing inlets in the mudflats and the typical riparian forests. A small path leads to a 400 year-old elm tree. The lower parts of the nature reserve are influenced District: Harburg by the tides and are full of Location: following Süderelbe along nutrients. Here reed grows up to Moorwerder Hauptdeich five metres tall and in summer Entrance: Stillhorner Hauptdeich PT: S3 Wilhelmsburg, Bus 351 wildflowers bloom. Interspersed are Size: 120 hectares meadows that are only used in a Specials: unique riparian forest 1 1 Wilderness on the Elbe. 2 The Penduline Tit with its unusually shaped nest. 3 In the wet margins of the Heukenlock the protected Marsh Marigold flowers abundantly in spring.

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3 70 River Landscape Elbe and National Park Hamburgisches Wattenmeer Nature Reserve Zollenspieker

During the Middle Ages this was a the commercial routes along the place where tolls had to be paid embankment; this was essential for both by ferries and travellers on the the toll collectors. A ferry roads; now it is a favourite haunt at connection to Hoopte in Lower weekends and offers lovely views Saxony on the other side of the across the river Elbe. river still exists, but it is used by weekend-visitors more than as a The name Zollenspieker stems from commercial route. a viewing point used by medieval toll collectors. From the 14th The largest part of the nature Century onwards tolls were reserve Zollenspieker consists of collected where the listed building tidal freshwater flats, reed beds and of the restaurant Zollenspieker water meadows within the Fährhaus stands today. From this embankments. As a consequence of vantage point one had a good view the tides the area is flooded of the Elbe with its ferries and of approximately 40 to 60 times a

1 Reed grows along the riverbanks. 2 Bird’s-eye view of the nature reserve. 1

2 Reed beds play an important role in water purification.

year. This has created a highly Common Merganser, Shelduck and specialized flora and fauna, with Teal, which are rare in other parts rare plants such as Xanthium of Hamburg. This stretch of the albinum ssp. albinum, Artemisia river also functions as breeding and annua and the grass Deschampsia resting ground for a large number wibeliana. Special nature conser- of specialized fish. vation measures are employed to try to establish Oenanthe Many of the rare plants and coinoides, which is endemic to the animals can be observed from the tidal freshwater flats of the Elbe, footpath on the main embankment. thus enlarging its habitat. on the other side can also be seen from here – or if one Among the birds, those living in wanted a change of perspective, meadows are the most noticeable: one could take the ferry across. Lap Wing, Common Snipe and Meadow Pipit as well as the rare Black-tailed Godwit and Red District: Bergedorf Shank. On steep banks the quick Location: along the main embankment Kingfisher can be seen and in tree at Zollenspieker studded areas Golden Oriole and PT: S21 Bergedorf, Bus 124 Size: 80 hectares Wry Neck sing. The river and the Specials: bikers meet at the restaurant inlets in the mudflats teem with Zollenspieker Fährhaus 72 River Landscape Elbe and National Park Hamburgisches Wattenmeer National Park Hamburgisches Wattenmeer

The island of Neuwerk is Hamburg’s perimeter to enable agricultural use jewel in the North Sea, or to be all year round and to protect the more precise in the National Park island’s buildings from storm Hamburgisches Wattenmeer. This floods. Today the medieval farming ancient and unusual part of methods are maintained by the Hamburg is situated approximately National Park for the Hamburg- 100 kilometres from the city centre Mitte District to which the island in the Elbe estuary and offers pure belongs. nature and adventure – already starting with the method by which A smooth natural “lawn” of one approaches the island. common saltmarsh-grass, grazed by horses and cows, covers the The car-free island of Neuwerk can saltmarshes in the northern part of only be reached by boat or at low the island. In spring the pink tide with a horse-drawn cart or on blooms of the Sea Pink adorn the foot. This has not changed since area. the Middle Ages. Approximately 900 years ago, the island with the In the eastern parts of the island, short name “O” consisted of outside the dike, special measures almost bare dunes. Over time the are used to encourage the natural dune’s sparse vegetation managed vegetation of the saltmarshes and to spread, resulting in a green their diverse fauna. This is why outpost for fishermen, which was during the summer this part of the also used for grazing during the island boasts a colourful carpet of summer. In 1299 Hamburg was blooms with highly specialized and granted permission by the Dukes of therefore rare species such as Sea Sachsen-Lauenburg to build a fort Lavender and Sea Aster. The air is (“Werk”) in order to protect the mildly scented by the blue-green commercial shipping route into Wormwood, a medicinal herb. Hamburg. From 1300 to 1310 the mighty tower or “Neue Werk” was The sandy or muddy tidal flats are erected. It still stands as a listed by far the largest part of the building and has given the island its National Park. They become visible name. twice a day with the falling tide. Innumerable crabs, snails, mussels From 1556 onwards a dike was and worms inhabit these areas. constructed along the island’s Most of them hide in the soil 1 1 Saltmarshes in bloom. 2 Arriving by horse-drawn cart is a special start to visiting the island of Neuwerk. Neuwerk’s landmark in the background: the medieval tower. 3 During low tide masses of mussels become visible. In the distance one can see the island’s old northern marker buoy.

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3 74 River Landscape Elbe and National Park Hamburgisches Wattenmeer

during low tide and are only breeding or resting ground or to discernable by the typical trails hibernate altogether. Especially in they leave on the surface. The spring and autumn, when migrating mudflats are intersected by deep birds start their long journeys, the inlets, which carry water constantly area is full of life. Geese, Shelduck at their lowest points and protect and several species of wading birds, maritime fauna such as crabs, such as Curlews, Sandpipers und starfish and fish from falling dry. -tailed Godwits rest here. These inlets are also home to the tasty North Sea shrimp, commonly In the summer months the neigh- known as “Krabbe” or “Granat”. bouring islands Neuwerk, Schar- hörn and Nigehörn become Hungry guests are never far off, important breeding grounds for where nature has laid such an seagulls, terns, Oyster Catchers and abundant table: Millions of birds the rare Red Shank. Seals from the use the tidal mudflats as feeding, open sea join the breeding birds in

1 Startled terns on the island of Scharhörn. 2 Pioneer of the tidal mudflats: Saltwort. 3 Young Cormorant in its nest.

2

1 3 Bird’s-eye view of the eastern part of the island, which has been returned to nature.

the tidal mudflats to raise their walks by the National Park young ones on the sandbanks. administration or simply to join a Visitors may even get a glimpse of guided tour. Otherwise a day at the the endangered Porpoise, a six-foot seaside can easily end with too mammal. much excitement.

On the boat trip to Neuwerk, it can sometimes be seen at close proximity: The whale emerges at regular intervals to catch breath while it hunts for fish. Since the 1990s several huge Pot Whales have strayed into this area. Once District: Hamburg-Mitte these 15-metre long and very heavy Location: Elbe-estuary off Cuxhaven PT: boat from Cuxhaven, horse- hulks have strayed into the shallow drawn cart or on foot through waters, they usually face death. the tidal mudflats from Cuxhaven-Sahlenburg The full scale of the adventure of Size: 13,750 hectares (National Park) visiting the tidal mudflats can only Specials: historic tower, Nationalpark- be guessed at by the number of Haus (information centre), plants, animals and habitats. It is saltmarshes in the East, walks through the tidal mudflats to therefore strongly recommended to Scharhörn obey the rules for observation and Information: see page 140

77

The Alster between Lombardsbrücke and Duvenstedter Brook

The Binnen- and the Außenalster canalization at the beginning of the (Inner and Outer Alster) with their 20th Century parks were created green banks at the heart of Hamburg along the banks, from Haynspark in are internationally known and the borough of Eppendorf to Alster- characterize the townscape. But the krüger Kehre and further to the park Alster has also a lot of sights and near the public swimming pool in the attractive landscape to offer further borough of Ohlsdorf. Concurrently upstream. Hamburg’s first large public park, Stadtpark in Winterhude, was built Created artificially through the from 1914 onwards. This park is construction of a miller’s dam in the internationally known as a prime 13th Century the Außenalster is example and still cherished by visitors. surrounded by green. The most important green space is Alster- Near Ohlsdorfer Kehre lie the public vorland with its architectural swimming pool, which is much used, promenade contrasting with and the famous Ohlsdorfer Friedhof, organically shaped meadows. This the world’s largest park cemetery. This park lies west of the large expanse cemetery is not only used as a burial of water. ground, but also as a recreational space. Further upstream the Alster is canalized up to Fuhlsbüttler Schleuse Upstream from the lock Fuhlsbüttler (a lock). In connection with the Schleuse the naturally meandering riverbed still remains. The accom- panying footpath Alsterwanderweg leads to several nature reserves; the Duvenstedter Brook being the most famous of them. During the deer’s rut it attracts large crowds of people. 78 The Alster between Lombardsbrücke and Duvenstedter Brook Außenalster and Alsterpark

The Außenalster with its green Concurrently the first public open necklace is one of Hamburg’s high- spaces were created, initially on the lights. Sailing boats and Alster eastern banks. But proposals for a ferries can be watched from the public park on the western bank parks and cafés on the shores. And already existed. Its implementation from the water – or in cold winters was only made possible after World from the ice – there are attractive War II. In preparation for the views of the villas, gardens and International Garden Show 1953, parks that frame the Alster. the area was transferred into public ownership and Hamburg’s famous But this impressive scene is not as garden designer Gustav Lüttge was natural as it appears. Until the 12th commissioned with planning the Century the Alster had been a small park. During the Garden Show the stream meandering towards the area was used to exhibit 50 sculp- Elbe. The Reesendamm, built in tures. In order to emphasize the 1235, caused flooding as far up- special charm of this beautiful spot, stream as Winterhude and Harveste- Lüttge designed an architectural hude: The Außenalster (Outer promenade as the backbone to the Alster) had been created. To begin whole site. It provides views across with it was surrounded with the open meadow towards the pastures, which mainly belonged to Alster. A seating wall, small the Cistercian monastery Herwardes- squares with granite sets and the hude. From 1680 history relates open meadow offered diverse increasing use as horticultural land backgrounds for the sculptures and and gardens, some of them magni- gave the park a good structure. ficent baroque gardens. Until the After the Show flowering peren- mid-19th Century the number of nials were added to the otherwise country houses outside the city plain planting scheme. The basic gates grew continuously, some of structure of the park is still them had landscaped gardens right recognizable today. down to the water’s edge. Public access to the Alster was limited. District: Eimsbüttel Location: Alstervorland: Harvestehuder All this changed once the city gates Weg were no longer locked at night and PT: U1 Hallerstraße, Bus 109 Specials: sculptures, 7.5-kilometre a ring road was constructed around circular track for running, the Alster between 1875 and 1907. cafés, boat hire, Alster ferries 1 1 Springtime walk underneath flowering cherries. 2 The rhythmically structured promenade forms the backbone of the whole site. 3 Sculptures, Alster ferries, villas and several piers with cafés – there is a lot to see around the Außenalster.

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3 1

2 3

1 The main axis leads across the lake and the central lawn to the planetarium. 2 The re-constructed plane avenue is an important part of the internationally renowned and listed Hamburger Stadtpark. 3 The formal gardens were designed by Otto Linne. 4 Canoeing on the lake. 5 Flowers and sculptures decorate many parts of the park.

4 5 The Alster between Lombardsbrücke and Duvenstedter Brook 81 Hamburger Stadtpark

Young and old, those looking for as the hedge-gardens and the flower activity or relaxation, the culturally gardens. Since 1997 a park interested and lovers of nature – management study aims to combine everyone enjoys Hamburger Stadt- historic elements with present uses park. And what is more the park is and capacities for maintenance. situated in the borough of Winter- hude – in the middle of Hamburg. That way Hamburg’s citizens and visitors can stroll through the re- The park was opened to the public constructed plane avenue and in 1914 and due to the thoughtful- admire the re-planted rows of trees ness of its famous planners it is still that frame the central meadow. hugely attractive. Initially the well- Alternatively one can use the known town planner Fritz Schu- manifold sporting and recreational macher developed ideas for the areas, admire works of art and 148-hectare park, later assisted by flower borders, partake in guided Hamburg’s first head of the Parks’ walks or in the extensive cultural Department Otto Linne. Their activities of the planetarium or just designs were so timeless and con- relax with a cup of tea. vincing that the expression “Volks- park” is internationally connected The park with its lakes, the wood with Hamburger Stadtpark. Sierichsches Gehölz, the open lawns and abundant flower borders During World War II the park‘s is also a kind of green lung for the trees were used as firewood and the town and an important habitat on land was cultivated to grow vege- the green artery leading north from tables; for a brief period after the the city centre. Rare birds can be war, huts for the many homeless watched as well as frogs and fish, were erected. But since the 1950s bats and butterflies. most of the park has been returned to its original layout. Though most District: Hamburg-Nord of Schumacher’s buildings were Location: Jahnring destroyed in the war, the under- Entrance: open to the public PT: U3 Borgweg/Saarlandstr., lying idea can still be discerned: S1, S11 Alte Wöhr For example the vast open space of Size: 148 hectares the main axis from the Planetarium Specials: public swimming pool, open air stage, cafés, planetarium, to the lake contrasting with the sporting areas cosiness of the small gardens, such Information: see page 140 82 The Alster between Lombardsbrücke and Duvenstedter Brook Ohlsdorfer Friedhof

Ohlsdorfer Friedhof is the world’s available space, and a competition largest park cemetery. Landscape was held. architecture and nature unite to create a harmonious picture, which After long discussions the head of incorporates artistic tombs, the Parks’ Department Otto Linne mausoleums, chapels and wells. designed the second half in 1919. His proposal was based on the The cemetery covers 391 hectares idea, that a cemetery is primarily a at present; it was opened in 1877 as burial ground and its design should a mere six-hectare site and was at therefore be based on the shape of that time a long way from the city. an individual grave. Several Between 1882 and 1914 director individual graves form a row of Johann Wilhelm Cordes extended graves and several rows a the site to a 196-hectare landscaped compartment. These compartments park. In 1914 an additional 156 were meant to be distinctive; hectares were bought, as requests planting or wells were designed to for new graves continued to be aid orientation, and shelter the made. But the new design was compartments from the roads expected to make better use of the leading through the cemetery.

The core of Cordes’ design: the Althamburgische Gedächtnisfriedhof. Alster: Zwischen Lombardsbrücke und Duvenstedter Brook 83 Der Hamburger Stadtpark

Flowering rhododendron in the landscaped part of the Ohlsdorfer Friedhof in May.

Despite his geometrical design proposals. Graves of several Linne found it essential to keep famous people can be found in existing trees and hedgerows. both parts. The Althamburgische Large family vaults and abundant Gedächtnis-friedhof (where famous flowers in the small compartments local people are buried), the Jewish contributed to making the whole cemetery and the Rose Garden are park appear less rigid. A logical some of the highlights. The Rose consequence of focussing on the Garden is regarded as a good individual graves and the example of garden design and was compartments was the desire to restored following the historic influence the size, shape and layout in 1997. material of the tombstones – regulations that Linne introduced.

The difference between the two District: Hamburg-Nord styles is still recognizable today: Location: between Fuhlsbüttler Straße, The original landscape garden Bramfelder Chaussee and Große Horst designed by Cordes in the western Entrance: Fuhlsbüttler Straße part and the regular layout by PT: U1, S1, S11 Ohlsdorf Linne in the eastern extension. Size: 391 hectares Specials: graves of famous people, Some of the compartments also rhododendron bloom in May reflect the clarity of Linne’s Information: see page 140 84 The Alster between Lombardsbrücke and Duvenstedter Brook Nature Reserve Wohldorfer Wald

The nearly 365-hectare Wohldorfer Beech trees cover most of the area, Wald in the borough of Ohlstedt is some of them are over 200 years Hamburg’s largest deciduous wood old and their canopies have created and one of the oldest in town. A the typical dome effect of a mature good third of the area is designated beech woods: The tall trees block as a nature reserve. The different out the light to such an extent that areas of this wood can be enjoyed the undergrowth possesses hardly on long walks. any shrubs or trees. The canopies form a kind of dome above the The existence of woodland in this trunks that appear like pillars. area can be traced back to the Since beech leaves sprout rather late Middle Ages. And already since one often finds beautiful carpets of 1770 the much-loved Wohldorfer spring flowers in those woods. One Wald was officially designated as of them is the charming Anemone. a recreational wood owing to its beautiful landscape. In addition there are some mixed oak and beech woods, where Cowslips, scented Woodruff and Sanicle grow. These ancient

In spring anemones create a flowering carpet. In mature beech woods there are no shrubs or trees in the undergrowth. woodlands are home to rare birds well as Black and Green Wood­ such as Pied Flycatcher, Hobby, peckers. By cutting the meadows Tawny Owl and even Eagle Owl. within the woods only once a year, orchids are kept alive and well. Along the small rivers Ammersbek and Drosselbek as well as the ponds This short account shows that there Kupfer- and Mühlenteich and other is a lot to see. Should you require small water bodies specialized further information, please visit the woodland, such as riparian forests nature reserve’s information centre and carrs can be found. Whereas north of Wohldorfer Wald. At the riparian forests are characterized by Mühlenteich (mill pond) one can also sporadic flooding, the water remains find several places to rest and “refuel”. still for longer periods in carrs. Therefore both types possess specialized flora and fauna. Apart District: Wandsbek from Kingfishers and Woodcocks, Location: north of the borough Wohldorf- the water is home to Great Crested Ohlstedt Newts and Otters. Entrance: Kupferredder PT: U1 Ohlstedt Size: 136 hectares Woodpeckers love decaying trees of Specials: manor house, woodland which there are a lot in both nature cemetery, remains of an old arboretum, information centre reserves – so one can spot all three Duvenstedter Brook species of Spotted Woodpeckers, as Information: see page 140 86 The Alster between Lombardsbrücke and Duvenstedter Brook Nature Reserves Rodenbeker Quellental and Hainesch-Iland

The last ice age has left its mark at (mill pond) was created before the upper reaches of the Alster: 1345 in a former clay pit. From Small valleys with streams, vertical then on it was used to power a mill. slopes with springs and mounds all The former fishponds stem from a joined in close proximity. This later date. All the water bodies are undulating landscape also has a lot special habitats for a large number to offer in the way of wildlife. of animals. Apart from different types of fish such as Bitterling, The Rodenbeker Quellental is Red-eye, Pike, Perch and Gudgeon, mainly wooded, from riparian amphibians abound, among them forest along the Alster to other Water, Moor and Common Frogs. deciduous woods, either with There are also a huge variety of mixed Beech, Oak, Hornbeam and dragonflies. The quick Kingfisher Birch or mature, single-species and the Dipper, which hunts beech woods. These latter produce underneath the water’s surface, rely too much shade for other trees and upon these habitats and can be shrubs to develop in the under- observed by perceptive visitors. growth – so the canopies form domes, supported by pillar-like The name of the nature reserve trunks. All of the different types of Hainesch-Iland further south woodland are home to an abun- already indicates that is used dance of animals, many of which, agriculturally: Esch is an old such as woodpeckers, thrive on german name for arable field. And decaying wood. Therefore the dead indeed the 12 bronze-age burial wood is left in the nature reserves. mounds confirm human utilization for over 5,000 years. So the land- Watercourses, in particular the scape is not only shaped by Alster, combined with woodland woodland, springs and water areas characterize the Rodenbeker bodies, but also by mankind. Quellental. The Alster’s tributaries Typical examples of human use are and have orchards and copses, which mainly developed naturally and were consist of oak or beech trees. The recently revitalized. In addition to trees were coppiced every 15 to 20 these there are several artificial years to obtain firewood and their water bodies: The Mühlenteich were fed to farm animals. 1 1 Dense beech wood on a cliff above the Alster. 2 Hainesch-Iland possesses an intricate mosaic of woodland and arable fields. 3 Lush riparian forest along the Saselbek.

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3 Alster: Zwischen Lombardsbrücke und Duvenstedter Brook

1 1 Lesser Celandine is just one of the many plants that prefer light woodland. 2 Marsh Marigolds live on the margins of water bodies.

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Copses usually consist of bizarrely more than 130 species of birds, shaped trees and possess a varied among them rare songbirds such as undergrowth of herbal plants, some Chiffchaff. Kingfishers, some of them rare species such as diving ducks, Hawfinches and Rampion and Corydalis. Tawny Owls also live here.

Meadows, pastures and arable fields are incorporated in the woodland. Water is provided by the District: Wandsbek Location: Borough of small stream Saselbek as well as some ditches and a miller’s pond, Rodenbeker Quellental dating from the 14th Century. The Location: Rodenbekredder mill was in operation until 1969 PT: U1 Ohlstedt, Bus 176 Size: 47 hectares and has since become a favourite restaurant. Hainesch-Iland Location: Furtredder/Iland PT: S1 Poppenbüttel, Bus 276 This varied landscape is the Size: 74 hectares breeding or feeding ground for Specials: Restaurant „Alte Mühle“ The Alster between Lombardsbrücke and Duvenstedter Brook 89 Nature Reserve Duvenstedter Brook

Duvenstedter Brook is situated near dating to the last Ice Age have been Hamburg’s northern boundary and covered with several metres of sand is well known for its diverse leading to moors and bog landscape and the large number of vegetation. Southeast of the road deer. It attracts many visitors from the loamy soil of the former glacial near and far, especially during the streams is more alkaline and rut in October. But Duvenstedter support mixed oak woods and Brook has a lot to offer at other riparian forests. times as well. From the Iron Age until the 1950s Covering an area of 780 hectares, intensive human use had destroyed Duvenstedter Brook is Hamburg’s much of the original landscape: second biggest nature reserve. The When regulations protecting the word brook hints at a boggy site, nature reserve were passed in 1958, but Duvenstedter Brook is not only only 34 hectares of woodland and a bog; it is one of Hamburg’s most six hectares of moors had been left diverse nature reserves. This is untouched. Activities to re-instate partly caused by the differences in nature, especially in the bogs and the ground: Northwest of the road moor areas, began in the 1970s. Duvenstedter Triftweg clay deposits 90 The Alster between Lombardsbrücke and Duvenstedter Brook

On the moors clumps of the typical In total 400 plant species have been sphagnum-mosses grow, inter- found in Duvenstedter Brook. spersed with Cotton Grass, Cran- berry, Bog Rosemary, Bogbean and The mosaic of habitats also attracts carnivorous Sundew. The heathland a diverse fauna. The 160 species of areas consist mainly of Bog Heather, birds found in this area include which is a typical moor plant as Herons and rare Cranes, which opposed to Scotch Heather. breed here. Several species of Adjacent to the moors are carrs. predatory birds, such as the huge Sea Eagle and Osprey, Harriers, the On the other side of Duvenstedter rare Honey Buzzard, Falcons, Triftweg one mainly encounters Tawny Owls and many others were mixed oak woods and riparian sighted. In addition one can listen forest with a diverse groundcover: to the voices of the bright yellow Star-of-Bethlehem, Dog’s-Mercury, Golden Oriole, several species of Royal Fern, Yellow Wood Anemone Warblers, Brown Tree Pipit, and several orchids grow here, Cuckoo, Great Grey Shrike and among them three species of orchis. Red-backed Shrike. The latter

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1 3 1 Duvenstedter Brook is intersected by various bridle ways and footpaths. 4 2 The little stream Ammersbek. 3 Agriculture surrounds the nature reserve. 4 Flowering Cotton Grass on the moors. betrays himself by leaving his prey information centre. If you prefer to pinned to twigs. continue your walk, there are further nature reserves adjoining to Red and Fallow Deer are the most the north and the south. obvious of the 38 species of mammals in the area, due to their far-reaching noises during the rutting season in October. They were bred in Duvenstedter Brook in the 1930s. At dusk one can also spot Wildboars, Roe Deer, Foxes, Martens, Polecats, Weasels and Badgers. In some areas there are District: Wandsbek even observation huts, but one still Location: directly north of the has to remain silent, because even Wohldorfer Wald in the metropolis, wildlife is not Entrance: Duvenstedter Triftweg PT: U1 Ohlstedt, Bus 276 that tame. Fläche: 780 ha Size: 780 hectares To discover more about the land- Specials: rut in autumn; information centre on Duvenstedter Trift- scape, flora and fauna as well as weg nature conservation, please visit the Information: see page 140

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The Wandse: Vom Kuhmühlen- teich to Höltigbaum

The Wandse is the longest tributary of At its height the river powered eight the Alster. Together with its mills. Upstream from Wandsbeker accompanying green spaces it forms Mühlenteich, another mill pond, the one of the green arteries that connect river was left to meander and is the city with the surrounding accompanied by a footpath. Varied countryside. green spaces are stringed along this stretch: Originally Eichtalpark with its There are similarities with the Alster: native and exotic oak species The Kuhmühlenteich near the city surrounded a manor house. The same centre can be compared to the is true of the park at Pulverhofteich, Binnenalster; here too a dam was built where the historic manor house still to create this mill pond. And further exists. In between lies Botanischer upstream this river was also canalized. Sondergarten, a garden displaying The canalized stretch is called Eilbek exuberant flowers. It was developed and is complemented by lime avenues. on the site of a former quarry.

The nature reserve Höltigbaum is situated along the upper reaches of the Wandse. It invites walkers, cyclists and skaters to extensive tours through the open steppe. 94 The Wandse: From Kuhmühlenteich to Höltigbaum Eilbek and Wandse-Grünzug including Eichtalpark and Botanischer Sondergarten

In addition to the riverbanks of and is called Eilbek. The banks are the Elbe and the Alster, Hamburg built as formal promenades and possesses a third green artery feature double lime avenues. alongside a watercourse: the Elegant townhouses establish the approximately seven kilometres of urban scenery. This formality is green corridor, the Wandse-Grün- only punctuated at Kuhmühlen- zug. Most varied parks and nature teich, a former mill pond with its reserves are strung upstream from flowing lines and Weeping Willows the Außenalster (Outer Alster) to that sway in the wind. the eastern boundary of the town. Some of them are still little known. Surprisingly for such a small river, eight mills in total were powered by With a total length of approximately the Wandse. Among others, this 20 kilometres the Wandse is the fact contributed to turning the longest tributary of the Alster. But adjacent Wandsbek-District into a because its name changes several major industrial location. Upstream times along the way, this fact is from Mühlenteich (another mill largely obscured. Not only the pond) near Friedrichsberg, the name, but also the character of the meandering river bears the original river and the landscapes either side name Wandse and is accompanied changes considerably. During its by several green spaces. course the river displays a huge diversity, beginning near the nature The first sizeable park is the six- reserve Höltigbaum, a former hectare Eichtalpark. Originally military training area, and ending part of the summer residence of with the outlet into the Außenalster local business tycoon Lucas (Outer Alster) at Schwanenwik in Luetkens. Around 1830 Luetkens the borough of Hohenfelde. started planting oak trees to produce tan from the trees for his The small green space on Schwanen- leather factory nearby. The tan wikbucht offers stunning views mill, in which the tan (bark, wood across the widest part of the and leaves) was crushed, had been Außenalster. Further to the east the on the site of today’s restaurant Wandse flows in a canalized bed “Zum Eichtalpark” since 1335. 1 1 The upper reaches of the Wandse in winter. 2 Many bridges cross the Eilbek. 3 Lime avenues accompany the Eilbek on its way to Kuhmühlenteich. 4 Kuhmühlenteich with church St. Gertruden.

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3 4 96 The Wandse: From Kuhmühlenteich to Höltigbaum

Following a fire in 1885 it had been planted in the 1960s. Today it re-built on a smaller scale. displays ten different oak species, among them Lebanon Oak, In 1926 the still independent town Quercus velutina and Willow Oak. of Wandsbek bought the site and opened it as a public park. The Botanischer Sondergarten lies entrance gate south of the park further upstream. It is not a dates to that time. Two sphinxes botanical garden as such, but more from the 18th Century baroque of a diverse display of perennials, park of Graf Schimmelmann frame with pools, wetland areas and it. They originated from the nearby many – even exotic – trees. It was Wandsbeker Schloss, which was laid out on the site of a former demolished in the 19th Century. quarry as an educational garden and still offers free events, After major tree felling in the post- especially for children and youths war years, Eichtalpark was re- but also the interested public.

1 Flowers in late summer in Botanischer Sondergarten. 2 Bird’s-eye view of Botanischer Sondergarten. 3 Meadow in Eichtalpark with rare oak species.

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4 Manor house in Pulverhofpark. 5 In the borough of Rahlstedt the Wandse meanders more naturally through meadows and fallow land.

Upstream from here the Wandse The remainder of the Wandse meanders through many belongs to the nature reserve ecologically valuable areas, such as Höltigbaum, which is described in Tonndorfer Feuchtwiesen. These the following chapter. wetlands offer a habitat not only for rare orchids, but also for Kingfishers, Herons and many bats. Dedicated citizens look after certain stretches of the river as part of a special programme. District: Wandsbek

Kuhmühlenteich Halfway up this more natural Location: Kuhmühle/Eilenau stretch of the Wandse lies the park PT: U2 Uhlandstraße of a former manor house: Eichtalpark, Botanischer Sondergarten Pulverhofpark dates back to an Location: between Kedenburgstraße historic farm from 1602 owned by and Ölmühlenweg Ditmar Koel. He operated two PT: Bus 262 Specials: rare oaks and other species, mills until the late 19th Century, flower borders when both burnt down and were Information: see page 140 replaced by a manor house. The Pulverhofpark surrounding park features many Location: Am Pulverhof/Stein-Harden- rare trees, including Cypress Oaks, berg-Straße PT: S4 Rahlstedt, Bus 27 Tulip Trees and Liquidambers with Specials: historic manor house, rare tree their magnificent autumn colour. species 1 1 Red Bent is one of the typical plants of grassland that is poor in nutrients. 2 The Map Butterfly, a rare species. 3 Possibly a sustainable method for landscape maintenance: Restrained husbandry. 4 The Wandse reservoir. 5 The wide-open steppe invites visitors to long strolls.

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5 The Wandse: From Kuhmühlenteich to Höltigbaum 99 Nature Reserves Höltigbaum, Ahrensburger and Stellmoorer Tunneltal

Wide open steppe – that is the The nature reserves Stellmoorer succinct description of the and Ahrensburger Tunneltal also 558-heactare nature reserve owe their looks to the last Ice Age. Höltigbaum that is divided in two The tunnel valleys were created halves by the borders between the approximately 15,000 years ago: Hamburg borough of Rahlstedt Water from melting glaciers and the -District in the reached the glacier’s bottom federal state of Schleswig-Holstein. through crevasses; its powerful The nature reserves Stellmoorer currents dug a tunnel in the rubble and Ahrensburger Tunneltal with a – the depth depending on the combined area of 541 hectares rubble’s consistency and the water’s adjoin further west and north pressure. respectively. The wide landscape offers a variety of recreational Glacier tongues often followed activities – from inline skating or these tunnel valleys. Sand and cycling on comfortable concrete gravel entrained in the glacier’s paths to sunbathing and picnicking water were deposited in small on the expansive meadow to mounds that followed the direction wildlife watching. of the flow and now form small ridges. Tunnel valleys are very rare, The undulations at Höltigbaum because they were often filled with with their sparse grassland natural deposits or by man. The developed on rubble deposits from small ridges are rarer still – our the Ice Ages. Grassland that is poor ancestors used them widely as an in nutrients is very rare due to the easy source for gravel or sand extensive use of fertilizers in extraction. These nature reserves modern agriculture. It offers a still feature good examples of both perfect habitat for grasses such as glacial remains. Red Fescue and Red Bent as well as other plants, including St.-John’s- The centre of tunnel valleys was wort with its uplifting properties. often saved from development and In addition there are areas of intensive agriculture or forestry, heathland that provide a touch of due to the boggy soil (peat and mud colour to the landscape in August. are up to 20 metres deep). Common 100 The Wandse: From Kuhmühlenteich to Höltigbaum

Alder, Bird Cherry, birch trees, The boggy valleys though were sedges, ferns and mosses grow in threatened by drainage from the the valleys’ carrs. Stellmoorer 1930s well into the 1980s. Tunneltal is also home to rare Measures to restore the wetland species of dragonfly and a variety areas have halted this development. of reptiles and amphibians, such as Today orchids thrive here as well as Common Lizard, Great Crested 30 different species of dragonfly, Newt and Common Toad. Moor and Common Frogs plus several birds, Sky Larks, Common The steppe was already used by Snipe, Lap Wing and Red-backed reindeer-hunters during the Stone Shrike among them. Age. The protection of archaeological findings from this Galloways, German Heath and period is another reason for the other sheep are employed to keep importance of this site. The first the grass and heather down. evidence of hunting with bow and According to a study they are arrow throughout all of Europe attended to on a minimal basis. occurred in the “Ahrensburger Kultur” (approximately 8,200 BC), The successful combination of which was named after this area. nature conservation and recreation turned this project into a model in Later agricultural use remained nature conservation. limited and contributed hedgerows with Blackthorn and similar shrubs on the fields’ boundaries as well as copses with Common Apple and Wild Pear.

Between 1937 and 1995 the reserve was used as a military training area District: Wandsbek/Kreis Stormarn and was therefore spared from Location: along the roads B 435, B 75 intensive agriculture with its heavy Entrance SW: Eichberg PT: R10 Rahlstedt, Bus 563 use of fertilizers and pesticides. In Entrance N: Kuhlenmoorweg addition tanks continued to scarify PT: U 1 Ahrensburg West the developing ground cover, which Size: 1,438 hectares Specials: bridle ways and footpaths, enabled rare pioneering plants such inline skating, area for dogs, as Centaury to colonize the area. information centre 1 1 The Ahrensburger Tunneltal. 2 Bizarrely shaped trees are typical of copses. 3 The last Ice Age left an undulating landscape.

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3 102 The Wandse: From Kuhmühlenteich to Höltigbaum Nature Reserve Volksdorfer Teichwiesen

Even if the name does not betray Yellow Meadow-rue. The local the fact, the Volksdorfer Teich- fauna is also varied. More than 60 wiesen are an example for a so- species of birds, including Lap called tunnel valley. A changeable Wing, Common Snipe and River history has left so many traces on Warbler can be seen. 39 hectares, that the circular walk along the perimeter resembles a In the evenings even mammals fly discovery route. here: The bat population extends from the tiny Common Pipistrelle The origins of the tunnel valley to the large Noctule. Common date back to the Ice Age, when Toad, Common Frog and Water water from melting glaciers created Frog live in the meadows; during deep valleys underneath the ice; the mating season they intone a here it is the valley of the small fantastic concert. And even the stream Saselbek. In the 13th world of insects holds rarities in Century a dam was built to create store: Several species of butterfly a mill pond that powered several and locust live here. mills for over 300 years. Later the water level was lowered and the Meadows and pastures are only pond used as a fish pond until 1882, used in a limited way and thereby when it was drained completely and maintained as they used to be. used as a meadow. The fen that Small water bodies and the gradually developed in the swale remaining woods are nurtured, to was even opened for peat cutting retain the landscape’s mosaic, between 1945 and 1960. Adjacent thereby allowing a stroll through areas were in agricultural use. varied surroundings.

The different uses have created an intricate mosaic of habitats: Water courses and water bodies, reeds and carrs as well as meadows, pastures and hedgerows are home

to more than 285 plant species, 63 District: Wandsbek of them endangered species. In Location: between Waldweg, Saseler spring thousands of orchid flowers Weg, and An den Teichwiesen PT: U1 Volksdorf compete with a sea of Ragged Size: 39 hectares Robin, Devil’s-bit Scabious and Specials: flowering orchids in spring 1 1 Sorrel and thistles colour the meadows red. 2 Autumn at the ponds. 3 The Saselbek leaves the Teichwiesen towards the Alster. 4 Flowering Orchis. 5 Polluted run-off from the road is filtered at the Halenreie reservoir. 6 One of the many pollarded willows.

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105

The Bille with Vier- und Marschlande

The Bille is a tributary of the Elbe. Ditches intersect the extensive Together with Vier- und Marschlande meadows, pastures and fields of the river characterizes the Southeast Vier- und Marschlande, thereby of Hamburg, which seems creating the typical striped landscape. comparatively rural. In combination with remains of riparian forests and carrs as well as The peasant landscape portrays a the foothills of the geest at the dunes side of the town that determined Boberger Dünen an intricate mosaic Hamburg’s look for centuries. The soil of almost undisturbed habitats has of the marshes is so rich in nutrients developed. Here one can watch rare that they still contribute to supply the species near the city. city. At the same time the historic villages and the cultural landscape Last but not least two historically offer Hamburg’s citizens varied important sites lie at the centre of options for recreation. the former town Bergedorf: The Renaissance castle with its museum explaining the history of the area and the surrounding gardens. 106 The Bille with Vier- und Marschlande Nature Reserve Boberger Niederung

The nature reserve Boberger Lark and Sky Lark are typical of Niederung is an area of great the local birdlife. contrasts: The 30-metre slope of the geest and the Bille valley, the Peat was dug in the boggy valleys. dry sandy areas of the dunes and Despite this the remaining alder- the wet meadows and bogs differ carrs offer habitats to 40 endangered greatly. Four well-signed circular species. Typical birds in this type of walks ease exploring this extremely woodland are Siskin, Golden Oriole, diverse landscape. Penduline Tit and Nightingale. Greater Bladderwort, a carnivorous The geest’s slope on the area’s plant, and Moor Frogs live in the northern edge dates back to the water. In the mating season the Saale-Ice-Age when glaciers frogs are almost as blue as another deposited loamy moraines. The use local – the Kingfisher. as a clay pit 150 years ago has given the site its terraced contours. In addition to the footpaths there is The excavation cut into aquifers, also a lake for swimming and opening some springs and several view points. Sporting producing a sunny slope with a options in the area extend from mosaic of soil types. Here several gliding to horse riding. For more orchid species grow, among them information and in-depth literature Marsh Helleborine and Broad- please contact the local information leaved Marsh Orchid. The plants centre “Boberger Furt”. are joined by several rare species of butterfly, such as Six Spot Burnet Moth.

The adjacent dunes have been greatly reduced in size by extensive digging. Nevertheless German Pink and Sheep’s-bit live in the dry grassland that covers the remaining District: Bergedorf Location: between Bergedorfer Straße area. In other parts heather and a and Billwerder Billdeich mixed wood of oak and birch grow. PT: Bus 12, 534 Various insects cavort here, among Size: 350 hectares Specials: impressive dune; information them butterflies such as Common centre Boberger Furt Blue or Fritillary and locusts. Wood Information: see page 141 1 1 Open sand area on the dunes. 2 Grazing sheep and goats maintain the landscape. 3 The boggy valley of the river Bille forms an interesting contrast to the sandy dunes. 4 Several footpaths lead through the area.

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3 4 1 1 Embedded in green nature: the regatta stretch of the water sports centre for rowing and canoeing. 2 All around the Wasserpark Dove-Elbe rare plants can be seen, such as Chicory. 3 Eichbaumsee provides recreation near the city.

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3 The Bille with Vier- und Marschlande 109 Wasserpark Dove-Elbe and Nature Reserve “Die Reit”

Wasserpark Dove-Elbe (a so-called near the motorway’s exit “- water park) has much more to offer möhe” reduce on-site traffic. than the well-known lake Eich- Outdoor furniture was only baumsee with its beach. The land- sparingly used and therefor scape appears so natural, that the provides comfort for visitors underlying design only becomes without impacting on the discernable on closer inspection landscape. – but that is well worth it. A regatta stretch for rowers and This landscape at the point where canoeists was installed on the two tributaries of the Elbe (Dove- Dove-Elbe. It complies with and Gose-Elbe) converge has been international regulations for high- cultivated over centuries. performance sports. On days Agricultural use was already without competitions, the documented in the mid-13th observation tower serves as a Century. But after 1965 the area viewing platform, and the changed considerably, caused by neighbouring lawns are favourite gravel extraction for large places for sunbathing, resting and development projects and picnicking. motorway construction. The nature reserve “Die Reit”, that Following the gravel extraction abuts to the south, is characterized the resultant pit was turned into by the typical vegetation of wet a place for recreation and water habitats and resembles an open-air- sports. Even the surrounding terrarium: Many different species cultural landscape and the nature of newts, frogs and toads abound reserve “Die Reit” was and can be seen at close proximity. incorporated into the plans. One of them is the rare Great Landscape architects Isterling and Crested Newt. There are also EGL won the competition in the rarities among the 200 species of early 1980s. According to their birds that live here, from the huge plans the approximately Marsh Harrier and the equally big 28-hectares lake Eichbaumsee was Osprey to various songbirds and officially designated for swimming. Water Rail. Even the flora is highly Car parking areas cleverly situated varied: Spatterdocks and Water Alster: Zwischen Lombardsbrücke und Duvenstedter Brook

1 1 Diverse carrs cover large parts of “Die Reit”. 2 Snake’s-head now only grows at a few sites along the Elbe. 3 The Tree Frog is one of the many amphibians living in “Die Reit”. 4 Since 1973 the nature reserve “Die Reit“ has been internationally renowned for researching migrating birds.

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4 Waterbody with reeds in the nature reserve „Die Reit“.

Lilies grow on ponds and tarns, vegetables and flowers. Bird reed with Bulrushes decorate the watching is best done in the margins, and the carrs consist of morning; amphibians are more Willows, Birch and several active in the evening. flowering shrubs. Meadows and pastures inside the embankment are dotted with Snake’s-head. The whole area is so rich in species that it is protected under European law.

Wasserpark Dove-Elbe The nature reserve is surrounded District: Bergedorf by an intricate cultural landscape Location: Beach: Moorfleeter Deich, Water sports centre: with many historical buildings and Eichbaumbrücke small wetlands with interesting PT: Bus 321 shrubs and trees. Remains of Fläche: 88,4 ha Size: 88.4 hectares riparian forests, hedgerows and Specials: beach, high-performance rows of pollarded willows give water sports centre for rowing structure to a landscape that owes and canoeing its typical stripes to drainage Nature reserve “Die Reit“ ditches. The top of the District: Bergedorf embankment is a good place to Location: between Reitdeich and observe water sports and the nature Reitbrooker Westerdeich PT: Bus 222 reserve as well as look at the many Size: 48 hectares meadows, pastures and fields with Specials: one-hour circular walk 1 1 The castle Bergedorfer Schloss combines architectural styles from the 16th to the 19th Century. 2 A suspension bridge with ornaments crosses the moat between the garden and the castle’s island. 3 The former kitchen garden was turned into a formal garden. 4 The romantic moat. 5 A stone lioness guards the castle’s driveway. 2

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4 5 The Bille with Vier- und Marschlande 113 Bergedorfer Schlossgarten

Bergedorfer Schlossgarten – the once the fortifications were taken former castle’s garden – is a green down and parts of the moat filled. island in the inner city of Bergedorf The park was extended from 1816 and is not only of historical onwards. In 1868 Hamburg took importance. Together the former over Bergedorf completely and castle and the park provide a place housed several administrative for an al-fresco lunch break, for departments in the castle. The park sunbathing on meadows and for an was further extended and opened educational visit to the museum. to the public in 1896. The monument to Emperor Wilhelm I. The history of the castle, which is typical of the time. A formal was later used as a municipal garden replaced the former kitchen building, is extraordinary. The garden. Roses and bedding plants Danes erected the first castle in the are still planted here and the early 13th Century on an surrounding rhododendron turn important trade route between the into a sea of flowers in May. Hanseatic Cities of Hamburg and Lübeck. After the Saxons’ victory A wide driveway to the castle’s over the Danes in 1227 the castle courtyard leads straight to the was home to various branches of entrance of the “Museum für Saxony’s ducal family until the Bergedorf und die ”, 15th Century. Following several which explains the region’s lively raids on their laden tradesmen, the history. Hanseatic towns successfully stormed the castle in 1420 and turned it into a municipal building. Hamburg and Lübeck administrated alternating. No garden existed at that time, as the castle was surrounded by a system of embankments and moats. District: Bergedorf Location: Bergedorfer Schloßstraße The south-east wing dating from PT: S2/S21 Bergedorf 1588 – 90 is the oldest part of the Size: nearly 5 hectares present building. The garden – a Specials: renaissance castle with Museum für Bergedorf und landscaped park with a Lusthaus die Vierlande – was laid out from 1805 onwards, Information: see page 141 114 The Bille with Vier- und Marschlande Nature Reserve Kirchwerder Wiesen

The 860-hectare nature reserve 1920s. Agricultural use has barely Kirchwerder Wiesen is Hamburg’s changed. The lower wetlands are largest nature reserve and one of used as meadows or pastures, the the oldest cultural landscapes. The raised stripes as arable fields. pattern of narrow strips of arable Initially corn and hops were the land or grassland and ditches has main crops, from the mid-18th already existed for more than 800 Century onwards it changed years. increasingly to and vegetables. Since the 1950s flowers are grown Until the early 12th Century the in glasshouses. To this day Vier- area was influenced by the tides und Marschlande supply that reached the region via the Hamburg’s weekly markets. Elbe. Then the Danes built the first dams. They were extended until the The water meadows and the many mid-15th Century, complimented ditches are most important for by a system of ditches and mills. In nature conservation. More than the late 19th Century electrical 200 species of plants grow here, pumps replaced the mills and the among them many grasses, but also ditches were altered well into the flowering plants such as Marsh Pea

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1 3 1 The Gose-Elbe forms the nature reserves northern boundary. 4 2 Where agriculture is limited, the meadows are not cut until late summer. 3 The diverse flora of the area. 4 Many ditches intersect and enrich the nature reserve.

and Yellow Rattle or the rare Water duck species, Moor and Common Soldier. Some of the ditches are frog as well as Common and Great poor in nutrients and therefore a Crested Newt. refuge for endangered species such as Bogbean, Marsh Cinquefoil and Roads on the dikes and the sphagnum-mosses. These plants embankment of the former marsh sometimes cause silting, but with trains provide comfortable routes careful maintenance these habitats for extensive cycle tours or walks in can be retained. this historical landscape.

Most birds visiting these meadows, such as Lap Wing, Common Snipe, Red Shank and Whinchat depend on limited agriculture, which contributes to keeping the landscape open. The ditches in this District: Bergedorf area are the only place in all of Location: between Fersenweg, Kirch- Hamburg where Black Terns live. werder Landweg, and Heinrich-Osterath-Straße The fauna also boasts Reed PT: Bus 124, 223, 323, 322 Bunting, Sedge Warbler, several Size: 860 hectares

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Future in the South – Conservation and Design as part of the “Leap across the Elbe“

Hamburg’s boroughs south of the river The historic precedents of this green appeared to be offside for a long time. evolution can be seen further south in The “Leap across the Elbe“ with its the centre of Harburg: Schwarzenberg- major projects international garden park was already re-modelled as a show (igs 2013) and International public park in the 19th Century, and Building Exhibition (IBA) in 2013 is Harburger Stadtpark on the lake meant to change this and to create a Außenmühlenteich dates to the 20th green link as part of the plan. Century. Both are an important factor in providing green space for locals and Already some of the smaller “stepping visitors alike. stones” such as Harburg Channel, BallinStadt with the emigration On its western boundary the Harburg- museum and BallinPark as well as the District has two contrasting nature castle island in Harburg with its star- reserves on offer: Fischbeker Heide in shaped park, contribute to turning the the hills Harburger Berge and Moor- Elbe from a dividing line into a link gürtel (moor belt) on the intersection between boroughs north and south of with (Hamburg’s fruit the river. basket). Both have individual appeal and are unique habitats for plants and wildlife, but they are also important recreational areas. 118 Future in the South internationale gartenschau hamburg 2013

The international garden show through accumulation of sediments 2013 (igs 2013) will add the fifth to in the Elbe. This fertile marsh Hamburg’s present four large divides the river into Norder- and public parks: Stadtpark in Süderelbe (Northern and Southern Winterhude, Altonaer Volkspark, Elbe) and was initially used for Öjendorfer Park and Harburger farming. Several small islands were Stadtpark. A modern public park surrounded by dikes to form the for the 21st Century will be created one large river island – Wilhelms- on a site of approximately 100 burg. Subsequently the land was hectares. It will form the new green developed and industrialized. centre for Wilhelmsburg and will invite us all to “leap across the The island’s landscape is Elbe”. You can partake in this characterized by water in different exciting process. shapes: port basins, canals, ditches, potholes and ponds of all sizes. The island Wilhelmsburg, one of Another important feature are Europe’s largest river islands, is national traffic routes – wide roads, situated in an area, where the Elbe railway tracks and waterways that bifurcates. It was formed dissect the area from north to approximately 7,000 years ago south. The divisions almost lead to

View of the showground from the western entrance. 119

different uses on each strip of land: structures of the landscape and the industry and commerce dominate international nature of its the West at Reiherstieg. Up to the community. The igs 2013 is meant national route B 4/75 a mosaic of to bequeath a park to present and dense housing, commerce, allot- future residents. This new green ments and green spaces follows. centre of Wilhelmsburg aims to Allotments and commerce are the satisfy the requirements for public main uses between the B 4/75 and open space and contribute to the the railway tracks. East of the spatial and social cohesion of the railway tracks varied housing areas borough. It is intended to provide a adjoin, and also extensive agri- variety of sports and recreational cultural land and nature reserves. activities – from amateur to high- These nature reserves evolved performance. Sports and activity largely unimpaired despite the are distinctive features of modern proximity of housing. and sustainable parks.

The design by landscape architect Noise protection is a major Stephan Lenzen (rmp Landschafts- challenge for the new park: In an architekten, Bonn) for the igs 2013 area that accommodates several takes up the characteristic traffic routes parallel to sensitive 120 Future in the South

uses, creative solutions will have to The garden show’s claim “In 80 be found. gardens around the World” is a loose interpretation of Jules Verne’s The majority of the existing allot- novel. At the same time it reflects ments will be integrated into the the international orientation of show ground, protected habitats Hamburg and its borough of will be retained and additional Wilhelmsburg, which is meant to green links will be created. characterize the international garden show. The design by Important architectural tasks will landscape practice rmp divides the have to be solved: The design of the new park into “passages” with show buildings, of sports and different topics, the seven “worlds” recreational facilities and of new of the igs 2013. This new park in housing areas bordering the park Wilhelmsburg can be reached be shall provide Wilhelmsburg with a regional trains and by car, but two new image and increase the appeal ferry connections from the city will as a residential area. make visiting particularly attractive: Barges will take visitors

The envisaged main entrance area of the igs 2013. Wilhelmsburg – one of Europe’s largest river islands – is situated between Norder- und Süderelbe.

directly to the community centre at “Water Worlds” allow visitors to the heart of the river island and experience the different vegetation ferries from the main port will gain zones of the earth – from dry a new pier at Reiherstieg and the steppe and prairie to grassland and Dockville events’ ground. A mixed woodland to bogs with their promenade will lead directly to the abundance of water. A water play western entrance of the new park. area for children will not be missing either. The western entrance is marked by a water tower whereas the eastern Containers play a main part in the entrance is near the station “World of ”: Colourful flower Wilhelmsburg, starting at either borders fill the footprint of a 40- end visitors will embark on a foot container, Clematis, Virgina journey through the show’s seven Creeper and Kiwi climb up “worlds”: The “World of religions” supports that are as high as a relates the influence religion had on container, and among these floral garden design – possibly a Garden displays real containers are used as Eden, a Catholic or Buddhist a kiosk, a café with a roof garden, monastery garden or an Islamic- an information point or a stage. Oriental courtyard garden. 122 Future in the South

The “World of Activity” appeals to evolved; from fruit production in children with a number of activity Altes Land to flower and vegetable playgrounds and to pensioners with rearing in Vier- und Marschlande spa gardens. Asiatic gardens host to tree nurseries and rose specialists martial arts demonstrations, a in the Pinneberg-District (west of climbing garden and fitness or Hamburg) or the heathland south sports gardens invite visitors to of the Elbe. watch presentations and competitions. From 2014 the Floral The circular walk through the Halls will be turned into arenas for whole park with its seven passages sports and other events with indoor will be approximately 6.5 kilo- and outdoor facilities. metres long and will cater for pedestrians, cyclists and skaters The “World of Cultures” with its after the show. café and terraces on the pond Kuckucksteich will become the The international garden show will communicative centre of the park open its gates to locals and and the point were all the passages international visitors in 2013. converge.

The passage “World of Continents” displays international gardens along the 53rd degree latitude on which Hamburg lies; it will not cease to amaze and surprise. Here visitors will discover the origins of their garden or balcony plants; and at the southern most point of this new park information about 80 gardens, parks and squares District: Hamburg-Mitte worldwide can be admired in an Location: between Wilhelmsburger Reichsstraße and the attractive and compacted multi- motorway A1 media version. PT: S3/S31 Wilhelmsburg Size: 100 hectares “Nature Worlds” show how the Specials: international gardens and public park for the diverse natural and cultural land- 21st Century scapes in and around Hamburg Information: see page 141 2 1

1 Masterplan for the igs 2013. 2 Proposal for a pedestrian bridge in the western section of the park. 3 Containers play a major part in „World of Ports“; even the flower borders are modelled on their footprint. 4 The „Water Worlds“ area is expected to cater for culinary needs even before 2013.

3 4 124 Future in the South BallinStadt and BallinPark

BallinStadt as a museum on historic visualize the crowdedness of the ground displays the topic of historic emigrants’ quarters. emigration from the mid-19th Century onwards. Germany’s A large meadow forms the centre of largest seaport Hamburg became the site and can be used for the „Gateway to the World“ for meeting, barbecuing and playing. roughly five million emigrants A few paths that ensure the main between 1850 and 1939. pedestrian connections and work as BallinStadt and BallinPark were “timelines” intersect the meadow. opened to the public on the 4th of Oversized portraits relate the fate July 2007. BallinStadt is largely a of emigrants. At one end these reconstruction of the former timelines cross the former street emigrants’ village since most of the “Am Veddeler Boden” and lead to historic fabric was sadly lost. the quayside promenade; they become gangways and open new The site is central to the green horizons. corridor between Hamburg and Harburg as part of the project The existing trees were “Leap across the Elbe”; it also was complemented by species with an opportunity for additional open strong autumn colours. At the space in the borough of Veddel, canal Müggenburger Zollkanal which is squeezed in between European plane trees symbolize the several traffic routes. This was the Old World, whereas further west reason to create not only American Silver Maple hint at the BallinStadt but also BallinPark to New World, and the meadow explain the site’s history. represents the ocean between the continents. At the back of the three re- constructed buildings that house the museum three further emigrants’ quarters were interpreted as “green buildings”. Museum BallinStadt Three large green “cushions”, District: Hamburg-Mitte shaded by a grove of small trees, Location: Veddeler Straße provide a favourite sitting area. PT: S3/S31 Veddel, Landungs- brücken Brücke 10 Circle Line Oversized portraits of emigrants Size: 3.5 hectares substitute the former walls and help Information: see page 141 1 1 The museum’s theme is continued in the park. 2 Three pavilions of BallinStadt were re- constructed following original plans. 3 Oversized portraits along the timelines. 4 Glass structures link the re-constructed buildings.

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4 126 Future in the South Harburger Schlossinsel

Re-structuring Harburger Schloss- administration of Harburg, which insel (castle island) at the centre of by then belonged to the Hanoverian the Harburg port is another court. The palace was heavily important contribution to the damaged during the French town’s major project “Leap across occupation in the Seven Year’s War the Elbe”. and re-built more plainly in 1764. In 1813 one wing was destroyed. The castle island was the cradle of Shortly afterwards the bastions the former town Harburg, now one were razed; the palace remained a of Hamburg’s seven districts. The municipal building. Horeburg (a castle in a bog) was first mentioned in 1137. In the Mid- In the late 19th Century increasing 16th Century the ducal family of use as a port changed the Brunswick-Lüneburg built a palace. appearance of the area A hundred years later it was up- considerably, while new traffic graded to a citadel: The island routes (the national road B75 and became a striking star-shaped railway tracks) cut it off from bastion. In the 18th Century the Harburg’s centre. The palace’s only palace was used for the regional remaining wing was altered

1 The proposal emphasizes the star shape of the historic citadel (Functions – second phase of development). 2 The park’s “beams“ lead to the water’s edge.

1 2 3 3 The remains of the Harburg palace at the centre of an amorphous industrial area. 4 Historical lithograph of the palace around 1850.

4 considerably, so that only the star shape. Pocket parks and ope- decorated window surrounds and nings to the waterfront are situated balustrades on the steps recall the at the centre of the buildings. The former glory. The building leads a design also encompasses the public sad existence among austere squares at Harburger Binnenhafen, industrial structures. such as Kanalplatz.

Proposals by Raumwerk and landscape architects Club L 94 try to emphasize the shape of the former citadel through and landscape architecture. A star-shaped park forms the centre of the design. The Harburger Schlossinsel District: Harburg palace’s remaining wing is at the Location: Zitadellenstraße heart of the park and its “beams” PT: Bus 153, 157 link the island’s core to steps at the Size: 33 hectares Specials: annual event Harburger water’s edge. Buildings follow the Binnenhafenfest (in the shoreline and emphasize the park’s second quarter) 128 Future in the South Schwarzenbergpark

Schwarzenbergpark on the to Jewish custom no more burials northern edge of Harburg’s centre take place on this site, but it is kept provides long distance views of the as a memorial ground. Elbe and the port; it is a mosaic of historical elements. Major Ferdinand von Bissing converted the hill into a public park It is not entirely clear where the in the mid-19th Century – complete name Schwarzenberg (black hill) with promenades through came from, maybe from dark woodland and meadows. He was conifers, maybe from its former use criticized by his superiors for as a gibbet hill. In any case the deploying soldiers to carry out the name indicates that it is a peak; initial operations. Work was and this was widely exploited. continued by a “beautifying society” and supervised by the Early on Schwarzenberg was used gardener Georg Hölscher, who also to position guns; during the French oversaw a Horticultural Exhibition occupation the Harburg palace was on this site in 1898. shot at from up here. Two guns still stand on the slope, they were later The Kaiserplatz from 1873 lies at used to fire warning shots in case of the top of the hill. A double lime storm floods or to fire salutes, for avenue frames the adjacent former example at the inauguration of the parade ground. It now serves other first railway line. In addition there events. Since 1528 it has also is a monument made of cannon- hosted the traditional clay pigeon balls – they were fashionable in the shooting. 19th Century, but only very few survive to this day.

Another relic of Harburg’s military past is the historic cemetery for the palace and the garrison on the northern slope. The tombs are District: Harburg Location: Schwarzenbergstraße indicative of the former glory of the PT: S3/S31 Heimfeld cemetery and the significance of the Size: nearly 16 hectares military. The Jewish cemetery of Specials: events on the former parade ground, cemetery for the the 17th Century is situated a little palace and garrison, Jewish higher up on the slope. According cemetery 1 1 Footpaths cross the diverse park. 2 The Kaiserplatz recalls the emperor’s visit in 1873: Viewpoint with fountain. 3 A double lime avenue frames the former parade ground. 4 Historic tombs of the garrison’s soldiers. 5 The Jewish cemetery lies a little further up the hill.

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3 5 130 Future in the South Harburger Stadtpark

The Harburg-District also 1933 the educational garden, the possesses a large public park: dahlia garden and the terraces with Harburger Stadtpark. The hilly site bedding plants were added. Only and the historic mill pond combine three years later the sports and to give the park a unique character. parade ground was finished.

The creation of the park became During World War II implemen- necessary owing to massive growth tation was suspended and roughly in Harburg’s population, following 120 bombs damaged the site. In the the industrialization. The existing early 1950s the park was re- park on Schwarzenberg no longer instated and further extended fulfilled the requirements of a towards the West. In 1987 contemporary park. First designs naturalistic additions followed that and even implementation were were typical of the times. The undertaken as early as 1913, but habitats were combined with the first part of the park was only modern art in the landscape. opened in 1926: The gardeners Georg and Ferdinand Hölscher More recently the so-called built a landscape garden at the “Gardens of the Centuries” were 17th-Century mill pond. They implemented; they are meant to employed the 30 metres difference display the styles of different eras in in height and the existing a simplified way and were woodland to create varied views complemented in 2004 by a rose and garden rooms with different garden. In other areas the historic uses. Initially these were an open- design is being restored. air-theatre, a playground and a hockey field with flower borders as well as two viewpoints and several meadows. District: Harburg In 1927 the park was extended by Location: Hohe Straße/Marmstorfer the Schillerplatz (a square), the Weg Entrance: Nymphenweg Beethovenhöhe (a viewpoint), the PT: Bus 142, 145, 245 lily pond with the Ludowieg- Size: 90 hectares Brunnen (a fountain) and the oval Specials: show gardens, extensive play and sports facilities, open-air- knoll. The public pool on the theatre, public swimming pool eastern shore followed in 1930. In Midsommerland 1 1 The frozen Außenmühlenteich invites visitors for a stroll. 2 The shore is a favourite resting place in the summer. 3 View across Außenmühlenteich facing north. 4 Garden plants and medicinal herbs are displayed in the educational garden. 5 The southern parts of the park are more naturalistic.

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3 5 1 1 Silver Birch, grasses and Scotch Heather thrive on dry soil. 2 The information centre is situated in a converted sheep stable. 3 German Heath are a special breed. They contribute to re-juvenating the heathland.

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3 Future in the South 133 Nature Reserve Fischbeker Heide

The 773-hectares nature reserve (German Heath) kept the areas free Fischbeker Heide is situated on the from shrubs and trees. hilly Harburger Berge and almost V-shaped, with the southern tip on In the 19th and 20th Century some the highpoint at 116 metres. These parts were afforested with pine relatively great heights and the trees and spruce, others were blooming heather in late summer turned into arable fields, an activity are the main attractions of this that was helped by recently diverse and easily accessible area. invented fertilizers. After World War II the last remains of heather The Harburger Berge are relics of were threatened by development, the Saale-Ice-Age, approximately but were saved in 1958 when the 150,000 years ago and consist area was designated as a nature mainly of sand and rubble. On reserve. It incorporates some these poor soils man produced the copses, deciduous woodland, spring heathland of the Fischbeker Heide; fens and other wetland areas. it therefore is a cultural landscape. The first settlers appeared in the The typical plant of heathland is late Stone Age; they cleared parts of the Scotch Heather, which was the dense mixed oak woodland, to used to produce brooms at one obtain wood and create arable time. The plant is a dwarf shrub fields. The easily discernable that can live for 80 years (double its barrows (prehistoric graves) and normal age), if cut back or grazed subterranean cairns date from that regularly. It is accompanied by Bog time. Logging increased during the Rosemary, various species of gorse, Bronze and the Iron Age, since Crowberry and Cranberry as well large amounts of wood were as Hamburg’s only incidence of the needed to smelt the ore. The last rare Bearberry. Over 2,000 small vestiges of the woods south of animals live in this landscape, Hamburg were felled in the Middle including the elegant Yellow- Ages, because the salt works in winged Darter and rare butterflies, nearby Lüneburg used wood to fuel such as some of the blues. Roughly their saltpans. As a consequence 140 species of spider have also been large stretches of heathland observed here. More than 300 developed, such as the Lüneburger animal species depend on Heide and its smaller “sister” heathland as their main habitat. In Fischbeker Heide. Grazing sheep addition to beetles and insects Alster:Zukunft Zwischen Süden Lombardsbrücke und Duvenstedter Brook

Several footpaths intersect Fischbeker Heide.

1 By adapting their colour to their surroun- dings Common Lizards are almost completely disguised. 2 Wood on the edge of the heathland. 3 The rare Common Blue.

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2 3 A herd of German Heath among heather in bloom in late summer.

Hamburg’s largest population of As heathland is man-made, Sand Lizards live here. These maintenance is required to keep animals have adapted their colour them. Sheep graze the heather in to suit the surroundings – except in the nature reserve and in addition it the mating season, when males are is cut. Shrub and tree seedlings are bright emerald. Other reptiles are removed and ageing parts of the Common Lizard and the poisonous heather are re-juvenated by removal Common Viper. Of all the birds of the top layer and sowing from only Wood Lark and Eurasian scratch. Nightjar shall be mentioned here, especially as this the latter’s sole Please visit the information centre habitat in all of Hamburg. for further details on this fascinating landscape. In addition to heathland there are copses and deciduous woodland, grassland poor in nutrients and open sand as well as spring fens and bogs – all of them further important habitats for rare plants and wildlife. For example carni- District: Harburg vorous Sundew, Bog Asphodel, Location: south of Cuxhavener Straße White Beak-Sedge, sphagnum- Entrance: Fischbeker Heideweg mosses and Cotton Grass thrive on PT: S3 Neugraben, Bus 250 Size: 149 hectares bogs, whereas Sweet Gale and Specials: information centre Marsh Gentian live in spring fens. Information: see page 141 136 Future in the South Nature Reserve Moorgürtel

The 737-hectare nature reserve small fish and dragonflies live in Moorgürtel – a chain of bogs – is and around the ditches. In Nincoper situated next to Hamburg’s “fruit and Francoper Moor, the larger of basket” Altes Land to the South- the remaining bogs, Cotton Grass, east and is characterized by an sphagnum-mosses, Royal Fern, intricate mosaic of different plots Orchis and Sweet Gale can be within the cultural landscape. found. The latter is a rare plant that used to be employed for dyeing The bog was cultivated since man (yellow), but also to season beer settled in the area, but it could only and liquors, owing to its be used in a limited way, owing to intoxicating qualities. the wet conditions. Local farmers contributed to the creation of the Nature conservation and farming area’s mosaic of uses, consisting of are regulated by contracts in order moors, shrubs, copses, small water to maintain the mosaic of uses, bodies, reed beds as well as which is essential for the protection meadows and pastures. Since of the Corncrake and other species. agricultural use on the boggy soil In addition to limited farming re- is limited, the Corncrake can be vitalization of bogs is encouraged. found here; this bird is an endangered species throughout This varied landscape can easily be Europe. The landscape’s diversity explored by cycling or walking on is essential for the Corncrake’s one of the many farm tracks. rearing of its young ones. Other species also benefit from the varied habitats: Among them are Stone- chat, Red-backed Shrike and Grasshopper Warbler.

Rare flowers, such as Cabbage Thistle, Ragged Robin, Yellow Rattle, Snake Root and scarce

orchids grow on the meadows. District: Harburg They are also home to Stork, Lap Location: between Francoper/ Wing, Common Snipe and Meadow Neuenfelder Hinterdeich and Cuxhavener Straße Pipit as well as many amphibians, PT: S3 Neugraben, Bus 140, 240 including Moor Frogs. In addition Size: 737 hectares 1 1 Flowering sorrel offers an attractive contrast to the rich green of the meadows. 2, 5 Impounded ditches serve to re-create the area’s original wet conditions. 3 Leas are particularly diverse and flower almost all year round. 4 The intricate pattern of copses and open fields provide diverse habitats.

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4 5 138 Addresses, Opening Times, Information Services

14 Alter Elbpark, Wallanlagen and Planten un Blomen HamburgMuseum Museum für Hamburgische Geschichte Holstenwall 24, 20355 Hamburg www.hamburgmuseum.de Phone: 040-428 132-2380 Opening times: Tue - Sat: 10 - 17 hrs, Sun: until 18 hrs Planten un Blomen www.plantenunblomen.hamburg.de Warden: Planten un Blomen: Phone: 040-428 23 21 25, Wallanlagen: Phone: 040-428 23 21 57 Opening times: May - September: 7 - 23 hrs, October - April: 7 - 20 hrs Freundeskreis Planten un Blomen e.V. www.hamburg-messe.de/plantenunblomen Wasserlichtkonzerte (concerts with fountain and light displays) May - August: 22 hrs, September: 21 hrs Tropenschauhäuser (glasshouses) Opening times: March until October: weekdays: 9 - 16.45 hrs, Sat, Sun, public hols.: 10 - 17.45 hrs November until February: weekdays: 9 - 15.45 hrs, Sat, Sun, public hols.: 10 - 15.45 hrs Ice Rink Große Wallanlagen Holstenwall 30, 20355 Hamburg, Phone: 040-317 47 39 Open from mid-October until mid-March www.eisbahn.info Skating Rink April until September, Opening times: until 30 April: 7 - 20 hrs, 1 May - 30 September: 7 - 23 hrs

24 Jungfernstieg and Binnenalster Alster cruises Alster-Touristik GmbH Anleger Jungfernstieg, 20354 Hamburg, Phone: 040-357 424-0 www.alstertouristik.de Events www.hamburg.de www.lebendiger-jungfernstieg.de 139

28 HafenCity www.hafencity.com HafenCity InfoCenter im Kesselhaus Am Sandtorkai 30, 20457 Hamburg, Phone: 040-369 01 799 Opening times: Tue - Sun: 10 - 18 hrs, May - September Thu 10 - 20 hrs Guided Walks HafenCity Landgang Sat 15 hrs HafenCity cycle tour May - September every 1st and 3rd Sun 11 hrs Viewing Tower Viewpoint at present Großer Grasbrook Traditionsschiffhafen (historic boats) www.stiftung-hamburg-maritim.de Internationales Maritimes Museum Hamburg Kaispeicher B, Koreastraße 1, 20457 Hamburg www.internationales-maritimes-museum.de Opening times: Tue - Sun: 10 - 18 hrs, Thu: 10 - 20 hrs

36 From Platz der Republik to Altonaer Balkon Altonaer Museum Norddeutsches Landesmuseum Museumstraße 23, 22765 Hamburg www.altonaermuseum.de Opening times: Tue - Sun: 10 - 18 hrs, Thu: until 21 hrs

57 Jenischpark incorporating the Nature Reserve Flottbektal Jenisch Haus Baron-Voght-Str. 50, 22609 Hamburg, Phone: 040-428 11 35 82 Opening times: Tue - Sun: 11 - 18 hrs Verein Freunde des Jenischparks e.V., www.jenischparkverein.de Ernst-Barlach-Haus Baron-Voght-Str. 50a, 22609 Hamburg, Phone: 040-80 60 85 www.barlach-haus.de Opening times: Tue - Sun: 11 - 18 hrs

60 Strandweg, Elbhöhenwanderweg and Römischer Garten Puppenmuseum Falkenstein, Sammlung Elke Dröscher Grotiusweg 79, 22587 Hamburg, Phone: 040-81 05 82 www.elke-droescher.de 140 Addresses, Opening Times, Information Services

72 National Park Hamburgisches Wattenmeer Nationalpark-Station 27499 Insel Neuwerk, Phone: 04721/692 71 www.nationalpark-hamburgisches-wattenmeer.de Opening times depending on the tide

80 Hamburger Stadtpark Planetarium Hamburg Hindenburgstraße 1b, 22303 Hamburg, Phone: 040-428 86 52-0 www.planetarium-hamburg.de Opening times: Tue: 9 - 15 hrs, Wed: 9 - 21 hrs, Thu: 9 - 21.30 hrs, Fri: 9 - 21.45 hrs, Sat: 12.30 - 21.30 hrs, Sun: 12.30 - 19.00 hrs Hamburger Stadtpark Verein e.V., www.stadtparkverein.de

82 Ohlsdorfer Friedhof Opening times: April - October: 8 - 21 hrs, November - March: 8 - 18 hrs Guided Walks, List of Famous People, Information and Map, Events www.friedhof-hamburg.de Friedhofsmuseum www.fof-ohlsdorf.de

89 Nature Reserve Duvenstedter Brook Information centre Duvenstedter Triftweg 140, 22397 Hamburg, Phone: 040-607 24 66 Opening times: April - October: Tue - Fri: 14 - 17 hrs, Sat: 12 – 18 hrs, Sun: 10 - 18 hrs February, March, November: Sat: 12 - 16 hrs, Sun: 10 - 16 hrs

94 Eilbek and Wandse-Grünzug including Eichtalpark and Botanischer Sondergarten Botanischer Sondergarten Wandsbek Walddörferstraße 273, 22047 Hamburg, Phone: 040-693 97 34 E-Mail: [email protected] Opening times: during daylight 141

98 Nature Reserves Höltigbaum, Ahrensburger and Stellmoorer Tunneltal Information centre „Haus der Wilden Weiden“ Eichberg 63, 22143 Hamburg, Phone: 040/780 711 88 Opening times: November - March: Wed, Thu, Fri: 14 - 16 hrs, Sat, Sun: 11 - 16 hrs March - October: Wed, Thu, Fri: 14 - 17 hrs, Sat, Sun: 11 - 16 hrs www.hamburg.de/info-hoeltigbaum/

106 Nature Reserve Boberger Niederung Information centre Boberger Furt Opening times: April - October Tue - Fri: 10 - 13 hrs, Sun und public hols.: 11 - 17 hrs

112 Bergedorfer Schlossgarten Museum für Bergedorf und die Vierlande im Schloss Bergedorf Opening times: April - October Tue - Thu, Sat + Sun: 10 - 18 hrs November - March Tue - Thu, Sat + Sun: 11 - 16 hrs

118 internationale gartenschau hamburg 2013 internationale gartenschau hamburg 2013 GmbH Neuhöfer Straße 23, 21107 Hamburg, Phone: 040-226 31 98-0 www.igs-hamburg.de Informationen [email protected]

124 BallinStadt und BallinPark Auswandererwelt BallinStadt Hamburg Veddeler Bogen 2, 20539 Hamburg www.ballinstadt.de Opening times: daily 10 - 18 hrs (last admissions 17 hrs)

132 Nature Reserve Fischbeker Heide Information centre Fischbeker Heideweg 43 a, 21149 Hamburg Opening times: April - October Tue - Fri: 10 - 13 hrs, Sun + public hols.: 11 - 17 hrs 142 Picture Credits

Photographer...... Page/Image number Sven Baumung...... 110/4 Breimann & Bruun...... 27 BSU...... 7/2; 10; 11/1; 18/3; 56; 59/5; 65; 69; 70/2; 84; 87/1,2; 88/2; 90/2; 98; 103/4; 107; 110/2,3; 121; 132/2,3; 134/1,2,3; 135; 137 - Andreas Eggers...... 71; 111 - Karin Gaedicke...... 89; 91 - Heino Grunert...... 15/3; 17/1,2; 18/2; 41/3,5; 43/3,4; 45/4; 51; 55/3,5; 61/1,2,3; 62/2; 73/2; 79/3; 82; 83; 90/3; 95/1; 97/2; 104; 129/1,5; 131/1,2,4,5; 132/1 - Dr. Klaus Janke...... 7/1; 73/1,3; 74/2,3 - Thomas Möller...... 37/5 - Ewald Rothstein...... 21/1 - Manfred Stern...... 2; 34; 47; 90/1 Denkmalschutzamt Hamburg, Fotoarchiv...... 127/4 Urheberrecht: No 889/30 Falcon Crest/U. Sieglitz...... 12 Klaus Frahm...... 25/2 HafenCity Hamburg GmbH - behrendt + männchen (Illustration)...... 32/4 - ELBE&FLUT...... 31/2,3; 32/1 - M. Korol (Illustration), B. Kuhn (Foto)...... 28/29 - Tim Kraus...... 31/1; 32/2,3 Günther Helm...... 74/1 Eva Henze...... 37/3, 67; 79/1,2 Herzog & de Meuron Architekten...... 31/3 Armin Jeß...... 75 Egbert Kossak...... 55/6; 62/1,3; 64; 70/1; 80/1; 85; 87/3; 88/1; 134/1 Landesbetrieb Geoinformation und Vermessung...15/1 Mediaserver Hamburg...... 41/4; 76 - Martin Brinkmann...... 16/1 - Frank Szymanska...... 18 RMP/Raderschall, Möhren und Partner...... 118-119; 120; 123 Raumwerk Architekten, Club L94 LandschaftsArchitekten...... 126 ReGe Hamburg...... 125/1 Dirk Robbers...... 25/1 Birte Rolff...... 6; 8; 11/2; 15/2; 19; 21/2,3,4,5; 23; 37/1,2,4; 39; 41/1,2,3,5; 43/1,2,5;45/1,2,3; 46; 49; 52; 55/1,2,4; 57; 59/1,2,3,4; 61/4,5; 62/4; 63; 66; 80/2,3,5; 92; 95/2,3,4; 96/1,3; 97; 101; 103/1,2,3,5,6; 108; 110/1; 112; 114/2,3;115/4; 125/2,3,4; 129; 131/3 urbanista...... Titel Sebastian Vollmert...... 18/3; 22; 80/4 143 Imprint

Publisher: Free and Hanseatic City of Hamburg Ministry for Urban Planning and Environment (BSU) Stadthausbrücke 8 20355 Hamburg www.bsu.hamburg.de Contact: Kristina von Bülow Concept: Heiner Baumgarten, Karin Gaedicke, Heino Grunert, Wolfgang Prott Text: Eva Henze Design: Birte Rolff We are extremely grateful for information to: June Baker, Susanne Bühler, Iris Carius, Andreas Eggers, Ulrich Hein-Wussow, Britta von Hollen, Dr. Klaus Janke, Grischa Koch, Lutz Rehkopf, Wolfgang Schmahl, Andreas Schmeling, Werner Steinke, Thomas Vesting, Olaf Bahr, Ina Heidemann Mail order address: Stadtmodell Hamburg, c/o Behörde für Stadtentwicklung und Umwelt Wexstr. 7, 20355 Hamburg, [email protected] Lithography: Hamburgs Agentur, Agency for Geo-Information and Surveying Print: February 2009, 1st English edition: 3 000 copies, printed on 100% recycled paper

Note on distribution: This book is published as part of public relations by the Senate of the Free and Hanseatic City of Hamburg. It may not be used by political parties and their aides during election campaigns for campaigning purposes. This applies to European, national, regional and local elections. Especially the distribution at campaigning events, at parties’ information booths and the combination with party-political information or advertising material constitutes misuse. The circulation to third parties for campaigning purposes is also prohibited. It may not be used even outside election campaigns in any way that might suggest the federal state government took sides in favour of individual political groups, independent of when, how and in what numbers this publication has been received. However, parties may use this publication to inform their own members. Legend

Hamburg’s Green Heart The Alster between Lombardsbrücke 14 Alter Elbpark, Wallanlagen and Planten and Duvenstedter Brook un Blomen 78 Außenalster and Alsterpark 19 Promenade “Bei der Erholung“ 80 Hamburger Stadtpark 20 Antonipark/ParkFiction 82 Ohlsdorfer Friedhof 22 Spielbudenplatz 84 Nature Reserve Wohldorfer Wald 23 Freizeitfläche Zirkusweg 86 Nature Reserves Rodenbeker Quellental 24 Jungfernstieg and Binnenalster and Hainesch-Iland 26 Domplatz 89 Nature Reserve Duvenstedter Brook 28 Urban Parks, Squares and Promenades in HafenCity The Wandse: From Kuhmühlenteich to Höltigbaum Green Quarters 94 Eilbek and Wandse-Grünzug including 36 From Platz der Republik to Altonaer Balkon Eichtalpark and Botanischer Sondergarten 38 Square “Am Born“/”Kemal-Altun-Platz“ 98 Nature Reserves Höltigbaum, 40 Grünzug Neu-Altona and Wohlerspark Ahrensburger and Stellmoorer Tunneltal 42 Altonaer Volkspark 102 Nature Reserve Volksdorfer Teichwiesen 44 Innocentiapark 46 Lindenpark The Bille with Vier- und Marschlande 47 Bewegungsräume Lenzsiedlung 106 Nature Reserve Boberger Niederung 48 Wacholderpark 108 Wasserpark Dove-Elbe and Nature Reserve “Die Reit“ 50 Hammer Park 112 Bergedorfer Schlossgarten River Landscape Elbe 114 Nature Reserve Kirchwerder Wiesen 54 Hirschpark, Baurs Park and Natur Reserves Neßsand and Mühlenberger Loch Future in the South – Protection and 57 Jenischpark incorporating the Nature Reserve Design as part of the “Leap across the Flottbektal Elbe“ 60 Strandweg, Elbhöhenwanderweg and 118 internationale gartenschau hamburg 2013 Römischer Garten 124 BallinStadt and BallinPark 64 Nature Reserves Wittenbergener Heide/ 126 Harburger Schlossinsel Elbwiesen and Schnaakenmoor 128 Schwarzenbergpark 67 Rüschpark 130 Harburger Stadtpark 68 Nature Reserve Heuckenlock 132 Nature Reserve Fischbeker Heide 70 Nature Reserve Zollenspieker 136 Nature Reserve Moorgürtel National Park Hamburgisches Wattenmeer is situated in the North Sea near the Elbe estuary. 89

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