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Santiago de Compostela & Galicia
Why Go? Santiago de Santiago de Compostela, goal of 200,000 people who set out Compostela...... 502 every year on the storied Camino de Santiago pilgrim trail, A Coruña...... 515 is one of Spain’s most beautiful and magical cities, and an exceptionally good reason for any traveller, pilgrim or not, to Rías Altas...... 519 make their way to Spain’s northwestern corner. Rías Baixas...... 523 But Galicia, a unique region with its own language and Ría de Arousa. . . . . 524 distinctive culture, is much more than Santiago. The wild Pontevedra ...... 527 coastline is frayed up and down its 1200km length by majes- Vigo...... 531 tic rías (inlets), and strung with cliffs, beaches, islands, and fishing ports that bring in indisputably the best seafood in Ribeira Sacra & Cañón do Sil. . . . . 538 Spain. Then there’s the interior, a labyrinth of deep-green valleys and hills, speckled with stone-built villages, aged Lugo...... 540 monasteries, vineyards and farms that put top-quality meat on Galician tables. Nor is Santiago Galicia’s only exciting city: A Coruña, Vigo and Lugo are all contemporary cultural Best Places to hubs with heady nocturnal scenes. Stay ¨¨Casa de Trillo (p513) ¨¨Hotel Herbeira (p521) When to Go ¨¨Parador de Santo Estevo Santiago de Compostela (p540) °C/°F Te mp Rainfall Inches/mm ¨¨Hotel Mar da Ardora (p512) 40/104 8/200
¨¨Casa do Castelo de 30/86 6/150 Andrade (p520) 20/68 4/100
10/50 2/50 Best Scenery 0/32 0 ¨¨Cabo Fisterra (p511) J FDNOSAJJMAM ¨¨Illas Cíes (p533) Jun & Sep No Jul Dance a jig at 24 Jul Spectac- ¨¨Cabo Ortegal (p522) peak-season the Festival ular fireworks ¨¨Monte de Santa Trega crowds or prices Ortigueira, Spain’s launch Santiago (p534) but (hopefully) biggest Celtic de Compostela’s decent weather . music festival . celebration of the ¨¨Cañón do Sil (p538) Día de Santiago . - - ) Santiago de Compostela’s 508 ) Buy oysters from the shuckers ) This cute little Pontevedra (p 532 529 (p (p Galicia’s iconic octopus dish: tender slices of ITINERARIES Week One des- number-one is Galicia’s de Compostela Santiago days. two at least for happy you tination and will keep A to da Morte Costa the beautiful round Then travel the spectacular on round if time allows, and, Coruña Altas. Rías Weeks Two plus and their islands, the Rías Baixas of parts Add the one- to Sacra, or the Ribeira Ourense inland Lugo, itinerary. week The is not just one Camino. About Camino de Santiago Eirado da Leña da Eirado Pescadería Rúa Mercado de Abastos de Mercado Albariño and seafood at Cambados (p525) Galicia’s feira á Pulpo ¨ ¨ ¨ ¨ ¨ restaurant serves up the best of creative contemporary Galician cuisine, and with a smile. best-known white wine goes down perfectly with a plate of cockles, mussels or scallops in the taverns of albariño’s Cambados. ‘capital’, tentacle with olive oil and paprika, delicious everywhere. in this Vigo street and enjoy them with a glass of wine at bars. neighbouring fascinating food market is piled with fine produce from Galicia’s seas and countryside, and there are lively eateries and bars right on the spot. ¨ ¨ Top Five Food Experiences Five Food Top ¨ ¨ ¨ Living the History the of Camino to paths beating been have Europe over all from Travellers de Compostela everSantiago the discovery since wereof what centuries remains there 12 the Apostleaccredited as James’ few of past intense. San- centuries so is the aura cities In ago. monasteries its and churches cathedral, magnificent tiago’s streets reminderswith thick are stone-paved ancient its and of pilgrims over of millions has been the goal the city that The is even1200 years. stronger tradition sense of millenarian strung with itself, de Santiago the Camino when travelling inns, churches and monumentstime-honoured landmarks, their progress. measured always by which pilgrims have Route), (French by the Camino Francés 70% of people arrive which starts also reach Santiago in the Pyrenees. But many Can routes, from A Coruña, Portugal, by other traditional tabria, Asturias will en you Galicia or Andalucía. All over emblem scallop-shell with a yellow counter the blue signs Caminos de Santiago. on one of the many you’re tell you that - ) ) 523 ) - � ) 533 522 531
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dr These visits don’t just just don’t visits These pano- city fine you give unique but also ramas cathe- on the angles interiors. drals’ Following the suc- Following de Santiago of cess exciting Compostela’s visits cathedral-rooftop (p541) Lugo (p505), (p535) cathe Tui and HIT THE ROOF 512 Praia da Barra (p Praia As Catedrais (p Catedrais As Praia Praia do Picón (p Praia das Rodas (p Rodas das Praia Fora de Mar da Praia Camiño Real (p538) Mosteiro de Caaveiro walk Ruta del Litoral (p514) Camelle–Laxe (p513) Ruta Monte Faro (p533) ¨ ¨ ¨ ¨ ¨ ¨ ¨ ¨ ¨ ¨ (p (p521) ¨ ¨ ¨ ¨ ¨ Best Beaches lantic, Galicia has, overall, as the as much rain twice average. Spanish national to August are the least June months. rainy Umbrella front by one rainy Swept afteranother from the At Bring Your ¨ ¨ ¨ ¨ ¨ Top Day Walks Day Top
stela & Galicia
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