Reprinted from the U. S. Lighthouse Society’s The Keeper’s Log ‑ Fall 2010
By Annamaria “Lilla” Mariotti
ighthouses are numerous along and boys offered by its the coasts of the entire world, citizens. The bulls were even if it is said today that their guarded by another utility is no longer needed be- monster: a two-headed cause of the electronic devices installed on dog named Orto. modern vessels. Anyway, these lighthouses Gerion, hearing have helped ships and sailors for centuries to that Hercules was reach home safely, avoiding the dangers of coming for him, fled hardly visible rocks and shoals. to hide in Galicia. Each lighthouse has its own story, but But Hercules found there is one in particular, the Tower of Her- him, and they fought cules at La Coruña in the region of Galicia for three days and on the northwestern coast of Spain, which three nights. At the owes its name to one of the most intriguing end Hercules cut off stories ever told. the terrible heads and In the mythological world, the ways of killed Gerion and, gods and humans often crossed. Gods lived after him, the mon- on Mount Olympus in Greece, and their ster dog. In the place king and queen were Zeus and his wife Hera, where the fight took but from time to time some gods used to place and where the come down among the common people to monster was buried, interfere with their lives. Hercules erected a Zeus was kind of a playboy and loved column that became a beautiful women, so, to avoid being discov- lighthouse. He called ered by his wife, he used various disguises. the nearby people to Once he was a Taurus to love Europa, an- build a new town. other time a Cygnus, to make love to Leda, Among the people, and so on. In this way he fathered a lot of there was a nice girl, children and, among them, Hercules was called Crunna. Her- born to Alcmena. He was a god’s son and the cules married her and The La Coruña Lighthouse at sunset. Wikipedia photo. strongest man who ever lived. This was clear in her honor gave the when, as a newborn baby, he strangled two new town the name of La Coruña. servation spot and his manor. Lord Ith, the big snakes that the jealous Hera had put in There is another legend connected with only son of Breogan, looking from the top his cradle. the lighthouse of La Coruña, less fantastic of the tower saw on the horizon an unknown As a man Hercules was called upon many and based on the Book of Invasions, an Irish land, which really was Ireland, and asked his times to perform important missions, and one collection of histories of the 12th century. father for permission to make an expedition of them was to kill Gerion, king of Spain, be- It is said that the Celtic chief Lord Breo- to explore it. His father gave his consent, but cause of his cruelty. Gerion was a monster, a gan was ruling the northwestern Spanish re- this was fatal, as Ith never returned. Lord man with three bodies and three heads and gion of Galicia where he founded the town Breogan ordered that a fire be lighted on the no soul, and he owned a herd of bulls that of Brigantium. He erected a tall tower, called top of the tower so that his son could find his he fed with the bodies of young virgin girls The Breogan Tower, which was both an ob- way home. One day a ship arrived. The Irish
The Keeper’s Log—Fall 2010 International Lighthouse—Fall 2010 Reprinted from the U. S. Lighthouse Society’s The Keeper’s Log ‑ Fall 2010
Ancient schematic of the lighthouse. Note the Latin inscription at bottom right.
At the base of the lighthouse has been sius between 415 and 417, this tower is for found a carved stone with the following Lat- the first time called faro (Spanish for light- in inscription: house). Later, in 572, the surrounding land, a donation of the Iria Bishopric, was called MARTI Faro and in 830 the entire region took the AUG. SACR. name of Lighthouse-Shire. C. SEVIVS When the entire coastal population was LUPUS forced to escape the Norman invasion start- ARCHITECTUS ing from 846, the new village they built on AEMINIENSIS the hills was called Burgo de Faro (Light- LUSITANUS EX.VO house Village). In 870 Saint Sebastian, in his chronicles, tells that the Normans reached a The translation means: “Dedicated to town known as Faro de Brigantoum (Brig- Mars. Caius Sevius Lupus, Architect from antium Lighthouse). From 915 Brigantium Aeminium, in Lusitania, as accomplishment was owned by the Santiago of Compostela of a vow.” Archbishopric, while the surrounding lands, The first tower was built with a square still known as Faro, were owned by different base, 18 meters on each side, and was 36 monasteries and churches, until, in 991, King meters high. There were three levels, with four Bermudo II allotted the Lighthouse-Shire to rooms on each floor. On the top a round pin- the church of Santiago. nacle 4 meters high was surrounded by con- During the Middle Ages, King Alfonso tainers where the fires were lighted. A spiral V confirmed the donation of the county to ramp was erected outside the building, with a the church, with the exception of the tower. door at each floor. This ramp was used to carry This roused the noblemen of the county, wood to the top to keep the fire burning. who started to fight among themselves for This lighthouse was involved in many the property of the tower, which was in a troubles and events through the centuries. In strategic position near the sea to be used as a The Roman tower. From Fari del Mondo. a book written by the historian Paulus Oro- stronghold. The light again became a crown
Reprinted from the U. S. Lighthouse Society’s The Keeper’s Log ‑ Fall 2010
tower. For the reconstruction work, it was ing systems have been installed. In 1847 the necessary to reach the top. Passages were optic apparatus consisted of a rotating light created in each room’s ceilings and an inside with 11 big reflectors, 11 small ones, and staircase was eventually built. New lanterns 12 convex lenses, still fueled with olive oil. were located inside two small towers on the In 1883 the fuel was paraffin wax; in 1904 north side of the lighthouse top. it was petroleum vapor. In 1921 electricity The heavy expenses for the restoration, reached the lighthouse, where a Fresnel lens putting the lighthouse back into service, was installed and lighted by an electric bulb. and maintaining it were paid for 10 years The ancient clockwork equipment was re- by the Consuls of England, Holland, and placed by a new electric rotating system, even Flanders, who were interested in the secu- though the old one is still kept in the light- rity of commercial navigation among their house as a memory of the past. The interior of the tower. Photo from The countries. After that period, this responsi- To illustrate the various transformations World’s Greatest Lighthouses by Annamaria bility was taken over by the towns’ authori- the structure has undergone over the centu- “Lilla” Mariotti. ties. But once again the lighthouse was ne- ries, bronze bas-reliefs were placed over the glected, and it suffered new decay: both the two entrance doors. property, and after that it was once more inside staircase and one of the small towers Between 1849 and 1854, the lighthouse owned by the Archbishopric of Santiago de collapsed. hosted a school for prospective lighthouse Compostela. All these changes led to the de- In 1785 the lighthouse was handed over keepers; many young men attended it to cline of the tower from too many owners and to the Royal Maritime Consulate of Galicia. learn the trade. In 1956 on the southwest lack of maintenance. It was decided to reconstruct the tower, and side of the tower a dwelling was built for the At the end of the 12th century, the name the commission was entrusted to an eclectic keepers and their families. In 1974 a foghorn of Brigantium was changed to La Coruña personage, Eustaquio Giannini, a naval of- was installed and in 1977 a radio beacon. (from the Latin ad columnam, meaning “near ficer and engineer. Today the Tower of Hercules is the sym- the column”), which, in the following cen- The ancient tower was covered with 60 bol of the town of La Coruña, and the tower tury, became the main town of the entire centimeters of thick granite stones. On the and town are usually identified with each region. But the tower was still deteriorating: top was placed an octagonal vault. A stair- other. The beacon has been shown for centu- the outside ramp was destroyed and many case was built inside. While general reno- ries on coins and various coat of arms of the stones of the lighthouse were used to build vation work kept the original shape of the town. Through these images, it is possible to a new fortress inside the town. During the Roman construction, a complex stone tur- see the changes that the tower has undergone 16th century the tower again became prop- ret was added. By 1791 the lighthouse was during the years. erty of the town, which wanted to restore it working again, and the lantern was fueled Today the lighthouse is fully working: its as a lighthouse. But the lack of outside stairs with olive oil. The light was enhanced by characteristic is four flashes of white light ev- to reach the upper floors made the building seven reflectors and the eclipse was reached ery 20 seconds that can be seen for 23 miles. unusable, and its ruin increased. In 1589, using iron plates moved by a clockwork sys- The Tower of Hercules is located at lati- during the English siege, the tower was con- tem. At this time the lighthouse had reached tude 43° 23’ 2” north, longitude 8° 24’ 3” sidered nothing more than “a bird’s nest.” the same appearance that we can see today. west. It is 49 meters (159 feet) high and the In 1682 work was started to rebuild the Since then new and more modern light- focal plane is 106 meters (348 feet) above sea level. Until 2001 there was also a keeper. The tower is open to the public and can be climbed to the top, with the exception of the lantern room which is closed to visitors. While climbing the 234 steps, it is possible to see the remains of the ancient Roman con- struction, as well as the signs of all the vari- ous renovations made during the following centuries. At the base of the tower, there is a small structure erected to protect the original Latin inscription left by the Roman architect. The inscription can still be read. Between history and legend develops the ups and downs and the adventures of this lighthouse whose history is crossed with that of the mythic hero Hercules and the Celtic Lord Breogan. It was built by the Romans An aerial view of the La Coruña Lighthouse. Photo from Lighthouses of Europe by to protect a main harbor necessary for their Daniel Charles.
The Keeper’s Log—Fall 2010 International Lighthouse—Fall 2010 Reprinted from the U. S. Lighthouse Society’s The Keeper’s Log ‑ Fall 2010
trades, a lighthouse that met moments of prosperity and moments of severe decay. In spite of all this, strong as a rock, the light- house of La Coruña went through the centu- ries, suffered heavy storms, saw the passing of empires and emperors, and met with many changes, but it is still there, surrounded by the Atlantic ocean, to testify to the long-last- ing history of these shining monuments that run the risk of being lost once more to man’s carelessness. Everything should be done to preserve these monuments. While most of them are very ancient and can tell us many stories if only we would listen, they must be preserved, most importantly, so future generations can enjoy them. Annamaria “Lilla” Mariotti is the author of The World’s Greatest Lighthouses, published by White Star, 2005. She can be reached at [email protected]
Above: Close-up of the turret of the lighthouse. From Lighthouses of Europe by Daniel Charles. Right: The La Coruña Lighthouse today. From The World’s Greatest Lighthouses by An- namaria “Lilla” Mariotti.