Volume 10, No. 1 What’s New – Interesting Summer 2011 Numbers
Wine has been a part of the 4.65 billion liters – what’s a under vine alone.) So, what human race since approxi- half billion liters between does all this mean? Well, mately 3,000 B.C. The earli- friends, right? The US pro- financially, if you were a est evidence of organized duced 2.77 billion liters in grape farmer, with premium viticulture and vinification is 2009, earning us a fourth grapes, you would be shar- in Georgia (the Eastern place, and interestingly we ing in a market of approxi- European, former Soviet consumed 2.75 billion liters, mately $72 billion (assuming satellite, not the Southern which was about 300 million $1,000 per ton, with a yield United State.) It’s believed liters more than Italy… The of 4 tons per acre). As a the Egyptians were tinkering final statistic that I always wine maker selling premium with wine making at this find interesting is acreage table wines, you would be point too and I bet, if you under vines. Although sharing in a market of ap- look hard enough, you will France is tops in production, proximately $193 billion find evidence in many other it is Spain that has the most (assuming an average sell- far flung parts of the globe acreage under vine with 2.72 ing price of $65 per case to as well. Simply put, wine has million acres. France is num- wholesalers.) As a wine been with us for a very long ber two at 1.96 million and retailer you would be sharing time. Wine is also big busi- Italy, at number three only in a market of approximately ness. According to the Wine managed 1.71 million acres. $400 billion and this doesn’t Institute’s Trade Data and Fourth place was held by include spirits… Analysis (TDA), the world China at 1.2 million acres, Wine is Big Business… consumes approximately 24 followed by Turkey, also at billion liters of wine every 1.2 million. That leaves the Cheers! Betsy & Paul year. Interestingly, France US in sixth place at .944
had been on the top of the million acres (by the way, pile for many years, finally California has approxi- being displaced by the USA mately .79 million acres in 2010. I’m proud to say, we drank 2.967 billion liters of wine last year, with France only managing 2.885 billion liters. Another interesting statistic is wine production. Although steadily declining over the last 5 years, the Wine Institute puts total an- nual wine production at ap- proximately 27 billion liters. France topped the chart in 2009 with 4.7 billion liters, followed closely by Italy at PAUL J. MALAGRIFA, CWE, CSS, CSW Inside this issue: Upcoming Fall 2011 Wine Events Feature: Critics vs. Judges 2 Sept/Oct (TBD) —Smart Wine Shopping Feature: Sonoma County 2 September 24—Napa/Bordeaux Shootout, Part IV Notable Potables—Whites, Rosés, 5 October 8—Northern Rhone Reds October 22—Older Wines, Part IV
Musings on the Vine Regulatory Update 7 November 19—The Wines of North America Upcoming Musings Events 8 December 10—Fortified Wines Ask the Sommelier 9 Feature: Critics vs. Judges
This past April, Team Musings judged in law, combined with a long track record for unfavorable view. Judges, on the other hand another WineMaker Magazine Annual Wine impartial decisions that leads to a seat be- must remain free of bias when they render Contest up at the Equinox Inn in Manchester hind the bench. Both require keen minds. their opinions and those opinions are often Center, VT. For 2011, we judged for 17 characterized as perceptive, wise or sage. hours over a three day period, we tasted 113 It is at this point, though that I feel the simi- Why is this important? flights or 633 individual wines. It was a great larities end. The word critique is an alteration time and it spurred me to think about the of the word critic and inherent in the defini- I have spent decades judging wines. I pur- difference between critics and judges. tion of the word critique is the term criticism. posely used the term judge, because every The primary definition of the word criticism is: time I taste a wine, regardless of its origins, I According to Webster’s, a Critic is: (a) one (a) the act of criticizing usually unfavorably free my mind of any encumbrance and con- who expresses a reasoned opinion on any
It was a long time ago – October 2010 to be approved American Viticultural Areas and 16th to mid 19th century, seeking timber, fur, precise – that a small group of Musings folks over 250 wineries. Sonoma County was once and farmland. By 1850, European settlement gathered to taste some wines from an always home to several Native American tribes. The had set a new direction that would prove to underrated wine region – California’s Sonoma Pomo, Coast Miwok and Wappo peoples were radically alter the course of land use and County. Before I get to the wines, here is a the earliest human settlers of Sonoma resource management of this region. little piece about Sonoma County. County, between 8000 and 5000 BC, effec- tively living within the natural carrying capacity The Russians were the first newcomers to Sonoma County, located on the northern of the land. Archaeological evidence of these establish a permanent foothold in Sonoma coast of the U.S. state of California, is the First people includes a number of occurrences County, with the Russian-American Company largest (in area) and northernmost of the nine of rock carvings, especially in southern So- establishing Fort Ross on the Sonoma Coast San Francisco Bay Area counties. Sonoma is noma County; these carvings often take the in 1812. This settlement and its outlying Rus- the southwestern county of California's Wine form of pecked curvilinear nucleated design. sian settlements came to include a population Country region, which also includes Napa, Spaniards, Russians, and other Europeans of several hundred Russian and Aleut settlers Mendocino, and Lake Counties. It has 13 claimed and settled in the county from the late and a fort with artillery. However, the Rus-
Page 2 MUSINGS ON THE VINE Feature: Sonoma County, continued sians abandoned it in 1841 and sold the fort to Sonoma County, as is often the case with were an established part of agriculture in the John Sutter, settler and Mexican land grantee coastal counties in California, has a great region. The vineyards of General Mariano of Sacramento. degree of climatic variation and numerous, Vallejo, military Governor of Mexican Califor- often very different, microclimates. Key deter- nia and based in Sonoma, were producing an The Mission San Francisco Solano, founded mining factors for local climate are proximity annual income of $20,000 at that time. The in 1823 as the last and northernmost of 21 to the ocean, elevation, and the presence and grape varietals planted at this time would not California missions, is in the present City of elevation of hills or mountains to the east and be considered premium varietals today. In Sonoma, at the northern end of El Camino west. This is in large part due to the fact that, 1855, a Hungarian named Agoston Haraszthy Real. El Presidio de Sonoma, or Sonoma as throughout California, the prevailing arrived and purchased the Salvador Vallejo Barracks (part of Spain's Fourth Military Dis- weather systems and wind come normally vineyard in Sonoma Valley, renaming it Buena trict), was established in 1836 by Comandante from the Pacific Ocean. Areas closer to the Vista. Commissioned in 1861 by the California General Mariano Guadalupe Vallejo. His du- ocean and on the windward side of higher legislature to study viticulture in Europe, he ties included keeping an eye on the Russian elevations tend to receive more rain during returned with more than 100,000 cuttings of traders at Fort Ross, secularizing the Mission, the winter and more wind and fog during the premium grape varietals. Many of the immi- maintaining cooperation with the Native summer. Areas further inland and particularly grants to the area were Northern Italian or Americans of the entire region, and doling out in the shadow of significant elevations tend to from other wine-growing regions of Europe. the lands for large estates and ranches. The receive less rain and less, in some cases no, After the Civil War and before Prohibition, City of Sonoma was the site of the Bear Flag fog in the summer. The coast itself is typically many wineries were established that still exist Revolt in 1846. today, such as Bundschu, Foppiano, Korbel, Sonoma was one of the original counties Simi, Gundlach, Quitzow and Sebastiani. In formed when California became a state in the 1920s there were 256 wineries in Sonoma 1850, with its county seat originally the town County, with more than 22,000 acres in pro- of Sonoma. However, by the early 1850s, the duction. During the Prohibition period, how- town of Sonoma had declined in importance in ever, commercial winemaking declined. At the terms of both commerce and population, its repeal of Prohibition in 1933, fewer than 50 county buildings were crumbling, and it was wineries in Sonoma County survived. Even as relatively remote. As a result, elements in the late as the 1960s, only 12,000 acres were newer, rapidly growing towns of Petaluma, planted to vineyards. But wine consumption in Santa Rosa, and Healdsburg began vying to American began to increase, and by 1999 move the county seat to their towns. The Sonoma County had over 49,000 acres of dispute ultimately was between the bigger, vineyards owned by more than 750 growers richer commercial town of Petaluma and the and 180 bonded wineries. Of the more than more centrally located, growing agricultural cool and moist throughout summer; a weather 250 wineries now in Sonoma, over half are center of Santa Rosa. The fate was decided pattern consisting of morning fog, burning off less than 20 years old. to sunny conditions by afternoon is the norm, following an election for the state legislature in In 2004, growers harvested 165,783 tons of which James Bennett of Santa Rosa defeated producing highs that are typically in the mid to high 60s, warming to the low 70s further from wine grapes worth $310 million. In 2006 the Joseph Hooker of Sonoma and introduced a Sonoma County grape harvest amounted to bill that ultimately resulted in Santa Rosa the ocean. Certain inland areas, including the Petaluma area and the Santa Rosa Plain, are 216,000 tons, worth $430 million. About 73% being confirmed as county seat in 1854. of Sonoma County's agricultural production is also prone to this normal fog pattern in gen- Six nations have claimed Sonoma County eral. However, they tend to receive the fog growing wine grapes—60,302 acres of vine- from 1542 to the present: Spanish Empire in later in the evening, the fog tends to be more yards, with over 1100 growers. The most 1542 and then again in 1775; Kingdom of short-lived, and mid-day temperatures are common varieties planted are Chardonnay, England, June 1579 until 1775; Russian Em- significantly higher than they are on the coast, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Pinot Noir, though pire, from 1812 to 1821; First Mexican Em- typically in the low 80s. the area is also known for its Merlot and Zin- pire, August 24, 1821; Mexican Republic, fandel. Grapes were planted in Sonoma County at 1823 until June 1846; California Republic, Sonoma County's large number of AVAs (13) June 14, 1846 until July 9, 1846; United Fort Ross as early as 1812. Padre Jose Al- timira planted several thousand grape vines at reflect the wide variety of climate and soil States of America, July 9, 1846 to present. conditions in the County, the large production Mission San Francisco Solano in what is now Sonoma County lies in the North Coast the city of Sonoma, in southern Sonoma in the County, and the prominence of Sonoma Ranges of northwestern California. Its ranges County. Cuttings from the Sonoma mission County in the wine market. The difference in include the Mayacamas and the Sonoma vineyards were carried throughout the north- climate and soil means that cooler climate Mountains, the southern peak of the latter ern California area to start new vineyards. By grapes grow well in certain regions and in being the prominent landform, Sears Point. the time of the Bear Flag Revolt in Sonoma others warm climate grapes are more suit- The highest peak in the Mayacamas within able. and the subsequent annexation of California the county is Hood Mountain. by the United States in 1854, wine grapes
VOLUME 10, NO. 1 Page 3 Feature: Sonoma County, continued
Sonoma County Appellations: Russian River Valley – The Russian River Green Valley of Russian River Valley – Valley AVA is adjacent to the city of Santa Alexander Valley – The Alexander Valley Green Valley of Russian River Valley AVA Rosa and the Russian River, where it bends AVA is one of the most densely planted of all was formerly known as the Sonoma County and cuts through the Coast Range to the of Sonoma County's AVAs. Located along the Green Valley AVA. Located at the southwest- coast. The AVA is characterized by the regu- Russian River, the boundary of this appella- ern corner of the Russian River Valley AVA, lar intrusion of cooling fog from the Pacific tion extends north of Healdsburg up to Men- its close proximity to the Pacific Ocean makes Ocean. The fog flows through the Petaluma docino County north of Cloverdale. Viticulture it one of the coolest appellations within So- Wind Gap and the channel cut by the river. has existed in the area since the 1850s but noma County. The climate in the Green Valley The fog generally arrives in the evening or the wine industry has only fairly recently ex- is even cooler than other parts of the Russian early morning and retreats before noon in the perienced success beginning in the 1960s River Valley, and favors the cultivation of cool day. The appellation was granted AVA status with Simi Winery. Significant purchases of climate grape varietals. Seeking to connect in 1983 and accounts for about one-sixth of vineyard land by E & J Gallo Winery in 1988 the region with the more commercially suc- the total planted vineyard acreage in Sonoma and Kendall-Jackson in 1996 also raised the cessful Russian River Valley name, the appel- County. In 2005 the AVA was expanded by profile of the Alexander Valley. The profile of lation formally changed its name on April 23, 30,200 acres to 126,600 by recognizing previ- Alexander Valley wines has historically cen- 2007. ously overlooked portions of the fog regions. tered on the approachability and richness of Presently the Russian River AVA includes the wines with Cabernet Sauvignon being Knights Valley – The Knights Valley AVA occupies the boundaries between the south- more than 15,000 acres planted to wine noted for characteristic chocolate notes and grapes. At last count, 79 wineries were listed warm mouthfeel. After Cabernet, Chardonnay ern end of the Alexander Valley AVA and the northern end of Napa Valley. Some of the in the Russian River Valley Winegrowers is one of the leading varietal plantings fol- website. The area is known for its success lowed by Sauvignon Blanc and Zinfandel. earliest vineyards in the area were owned by Beringer Vineyards. The area is known for its with cool climate varietals, notably Pinot Noir Bennett Valley – The Bennett Valley AVA is Cabernet Sauvignon. and Chardonnay. one of Sonoma County's newest AVAs and is Los Carneros – The Los Carneros AVA Sonoma Coast – The Sonoma Coast AVA a principal grape supplier to Kendall-Jackson. contains more than 500,000 acres, mostly The AVA is surrounded to the south, east and spans across the last, low hills of the May- acamas Mountains dividing both Napa and along the coastline of the Pacific Ocean. It west by the Sonoma Mountains and to the extends from San Pablo Bay to the border north by the city of Santa Rosa. The region Sonoma Valleys just north of San Pablo Bay. The larger portion of the appellation stretches with Mendocino County. The appellation is receives a moderating effect on its climate known for its cool climate and high rainfall from Pacific Ocean through the cool coastal into Sonoma County with grapes grown here also being allowed to use the Sonoma Valley relative to other parts of Sonoma County. fogs and breeze that creep into the area from the southwest through Crane Canyon be- AVA designation. The area's close proxi- Sonoma Valley – The Sonoma Valley AVA is tween Sonoma Mountain and Taylor Moun- mately to the Bay make it an ideal location for known for its unique terroir with Sonoma tain. Pinot Noir and Chardonnay production with Mountain protecting the area from the wet and producers from international Champagne cool influence of the nearby Pacific Ocean. Chalk Hill – The Chalk Hill AVA is a sub- houses such as Moët et Chandon (Domaine The Sonoma Mountains to the west help pro- appellation of the Russian River Valley lo- Chandon California), Taittinger (Domaine tect the valley from excessive rainfall. The cated near the town of Windsor along the Carneros), and Cava producers planting vine- cool air that does affect the region comes foothills at the southern end of Alexander yards and sourcing grapes from the area. northward from San Pablo Bay through the Valley and along the Santa Rosa plain.[9] The Carneros region and southward from the name Chalk Hill comes from the unique vol- Northern Sonoma – The Northern Sonoma AVA is an all encompassing appellation that Santa Rosa plain. Sonoma Valley has played canic soil of chalky white ash which has a significant role in the history of California shown itself to perform well with planting of covers all of Sonoma County with the excep- tion of the Sonoma Valley and some areas of wine. white wine varietals like Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. The majority of the region's the Petaluma River watershed. The AVA was Sonoma Mountain – The Sonoma Mountain wineries are located on the western slopes of proposed by E & J Gallo to accommodate AVA, in the Sonoma Mountains, includes the the Mayacamas Mountains. wines made from a blend of grapes from scat- town of Glen Ellen and is bordered on the tered vineyards in Sonoma County. west by the Sonoma Valley AVA. The area is Dry Creek Valley – The Dry Creek Valley known for the diverse micro-climates that AVA in the Russian River Valley centers on Rockpile – The Rockpile AVA is situated at the northwest point of the Dry Creek Valley occur within the crevices and folds of the the Dry Creek, a tributary of the Russian hillside terrain and as such is home to produc- River, and is approximately 16 miles long and AVA, past Healdsburg. The area was first planted by Italian immigrants at the turn of the tion for a wide range of varietals including 2 miles wide. The appellation is known par- Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, ticularly for its Sauvignon Blanc and Zinfandel 20th century. Many of today's vineyards were formerly occupied by a reservoir created by Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, and Zinfandel. production. Dry Creek Valley AVA is home to the majority of the Sonoma Gallo vineyards, the Warm Springs Dam on the Russian River. Sonoma County Wines: who established winery facilities in the valley The area is known for its fruity, ripe Zinfan- dels. J Brut Cuvee 20, Russian River Valley in the early 1990s.
Page 4 MUSINGS ON THE VINE Feature: Sonoma County, continued
($23.99/bottle) 2008 Patz & Hall Chardonnay, Sonoma Coast wood hints. Medium-to-full-bodied with ($34.99/bottle) moderate acidity and moderate tannin – Yeasty, lemony nose with a hint of sweet cream. Medium-bodied with firm acidity – Bright nose with apple and pineapple hints good balance. Black cherry palate with good balance. Tart palate with green apple – lovely. Medium-bodied with moderate vanilla notes. Long finish, smooth with notes. Moderate length, clean with some acidity – good balance. Tropical fruit with allspice on the aftertaste. Good value.
pretty floral notes on the finish. light citrus and pear notes. Long finish with 2005 Silver Oak Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexan-
layers of creamy caramel, butterscotch and der Valley ($79.99/bottle) 2005 Iron Horse Wedding Cuvee, Green Val- vanilla. Nice. ley of Russian River Valley ($43.99/bottle) Menthol and olive aromas, rustic but majes-
Yeasty, leesy nose with apple and caramel 2008 George Pinot Noir Leras Family Vine- tic. Medium-to-full-bodied with moderate yard, Russian River Valley ($109.99/bottle) acidity and firm, dry tannins – well bal- hints – pretty. Medium-bodied with firm acidity – good balance. Toasty, oaky and Gamey nose with mineral, berry, anise and anced. Deep, dark cherry palate with layers vanilla notes layered over green apple and rosemary hints – super intense. Medium- of complexity – mint, menthol, floral, tar, pear fruit. Creamy, persistent mousse and bodied with moderate acidity and soft, pepper – highly expressive. Long finish – a smooth, refreshing finish. A very credible supple tannin – well balanced. Raspberry highly complex – just a stunning bottle of sparkler. palate with white pepper, cloves and all- wine!
spice notes. Long finish, smoky with traces 2008 Dry Creek Chenin Blanc Wilson Ranch, of cranberry and mint. Really beautiful Sonoma County ($12.99/bottle) wine… Pretty nose with honeysuckle and citrus hints. Medium-bodied with moderate acidity 2008 Ridge Three Valley, Sonoma County – good balance. Fruity palate with lemon ($25.99/bottle) and apple notes. Moderate length with a (74% Zinfandel; 11% Petite Sirah; 5% Carig- nan; 4% Mataro; 3% Syrah; 3% Grenache) smooth, refreshing finish. Deemed the value of the tasting! Spicy nose with dried fruit, cedar and va- nilla hints. Medium-bodied with moderate 2008 Ferrari Carano Chardonnay, Sonoma acidity and moderate tannin – good bal- County ($21.99/bottle) ance. Dark fruit core with black cherry and Strong oak on the nose (no doubt from over blackberry jam notes. Long finish with ten months French Oak) but lacks fruit. smooth, spicy finish – classic Sonoma Medium-bodied with firm acidity – good Zin… balance. Too much wood… lacked fruity. Moderate length with s me pretty vanilla 2007 Louis Martini Cabernet Sauvignon, So- noma County ($19.99/bottle) and butterscotch. Jammy, cherry nose with cedar and briar-
Notable Potables: Whites, Rosés, Reds…
Wines marked with an asterisk (*) are avail- Fresh, berry fruit nose – spicy. Medium- 2008 Lemelson Vineyards Thea’s Selection able only through the distributor: bodied with crisp acidity – good balance. Pinot Noir, Willamette, Oregon ($35.99/bottle)
Guido & Son (http://site.guidoandson.com/ Fruity palate with cherry, strawberry and Ripe, spicy nose with red berry and floral Home.html) light citrus notes – refreshing. Moderate hints. Medium-bodied with moderate acidity length with a smooth, clean finish. Drinking and moderate tannin – good balance. 2009 Cline Viognier, North Coast, California well now – not for aging. Great value. Youthful, fruity palate with good raspberry ($9.99/bottle) 2010 Henri Bourgeois Petit Bourgeois Rosé and strawberry notes. Long finish with Perfumed nose with floral, nutty hints. Me- de Pinot Noir, Vin de Pays du Val de Loire, lingering violets, rose petals and lilacs on dium-bodied with crisp acidity – good bal- France ($12.99/bottle) the aftertaste. Drinking well and should ance. Fruity palate with tropical fruit notes improve for another 5 to 7 years. Fruity nose with strawberry and floral hints. and some citrus. Moderate length, smooth Medium-bodied with racy acidity – good with a refreshing finish. Drinking well now – 2007 Bodega Benegas Don Tiburno, Men- balance. Citrus palate with a tart bite and not for aging. Very pretty and a great value. doza, Argentina ($11.99) berry fruit notes. Moderate length – refresh- Composition: 50% Malbec; 20% Cabernet 2010 Saint-Peyre Syrah Rosé, Vin de Pays ing with a hint of spice on the aftertaste. Sauvignon; 20% Cabernet Franc; 5% Merlot; d’Oc, France ($9.99/bottle) Drinking well now – not for aging. 5% Petit Verdot
VOLUME 10, NO. 1 Page 5 Notable Potables: Whites, Rosés, Reds, cont.
Dark, brooding nose with black cherry, well now and should improve for another 2 the finish. Drinking well – should smooth currant, menthol and cedar hints. Full- to 3 years. Good value considering the out with time – 3 to 5 years. bodied with moderate acidity and firm, dry region. tannin – good balance. Dark fruit core – 2008 Cantina Cincinnato Pollúce, Lazio 2008 Villa Almadi Cabernet del Veneto IGT, Rosso DOC, Italy ($9.99/bottle) jammy, tarry with cherry and lilac notes. Italy ($15.00/bottle)* Moderate length, smooth with stewed fruit Juicy, fruity nose with cherry, herb and on the finish. Drinking well and should Perfumed, complex nose with dried herb black pepper hints. Medium-bodied with improve for the next 3 to 5 years. and floral hints. Medium-to-full-bodied with moderate acidity and soft tannin – good moderate acidity and firm tannin – good balance. Youthful, fruity palate with fresh 2008 Bodegas Martin Codax Cuatro Pasos balance. Fruity palate with balck cherry and cherry, anise and floral notes. Moderate Mencia, DO Bierzo, Spain ($11.99/bottle) dried currant notes. Long finish with floral length, smooth, drinking well – not for ag- Ripe, cherry nose with tar, wildflower and and spice on the aftertaste. Very nice. ing. Good value. dried herb hints. Medium-bodied with firm Drinking well and should improve with 2 to acidity and dry tannin – good balance. Sour 3 years aging. Good value. 2006 Morgante Nero d’Avola, Sicilia IGT, Italy ($15.99/bottle) cherry palate with black pepper, sage and violet notes. Moderate length, smooth, but 2006 Santa Lucia Cabernet Sauvignon, Bright, cherry fruit aromas with dried herb, Capalbio DOC, Italy ($47.00/bottle)* tight on the finish. Needs time – try again in anise and cedar hints. Full-bodied with 2 to 3 years. Good value. Lively, peppery nose with dried fruit and moderate acidity and supple tannin – well cedar hints. Full-bodied with moderate balanced. Lush, fruity palate with dark fruit 2009 Bodegas Borsao Garnacha, DO Campo acidity and firm tannin – good balance. core, dried fruit and bittersweet chocolate – de Borja, Spain ($6.99/bottle) Jammy, fruity palate with cherry, black earthy. Long finish, smooth and seductive – Ripe, fresh cherry nose with tar and fresh currant and tar notes. Long finish with a spicy. Drinking well and should improve herb hints. Medium-bodied with moderate smooth aftertaste – spicy with a hint of with another 2 to 3 years in bottle. Good acidity and supple tannin – good balance. vanilla. Drinking well and should improve value. Juicy , cherry palate with anise and violet with another 3 to 5 years in bottle. notes. Moderate length, smooth, youthful. 2008 Tenuta Cocci Grifoni Tellus, Marche Drinking well now – not for aging. Good 2006 Santa Lucia Tore del Moro, Morellino di Rosso IGT, Italy ($14.99/bottle) Scansano DOC, Italy ($18.00/bottle)* Composition : 50% Montepulciano ; 25% value. Merlot ; 25% Cabernet Sauvignon Ripe, youthful nose with fresh cherry and 2009 Cortijo Tinto, DOCa Rioja, Spain ($9.99/ dried herb hints. Medium-bodied with firm Earthy nose with dark cherry, dried herb bottle) acidity and tight tannin. Rough palate with and briar hints. Medium-bodied with moder- Vibrant, chalky nose with fresh cherry and tarry, dark cherry fruit and light floral notes ate acidity and supple tannin – good bal- floral hints. Medium-bodied with firm acidity – puckering. Moderate length with an edgy ance. Youthful with a dark fruit core and and polished tannins – good balance. Juicy finish – tight. May improve with time. tarry notes – yummy. Moderate length, palate with sour cherry, saddle leather and smooth and a bit spicy. Drinking well now violet notes. Moderate length, smooth, 2009 Cinquepassi Rosso, Veneto IGT, Italy and should improve with 2 to 3 years in youthful. Drinking well – not for aging. ($22.00/bottle)* bottle. Great value. Composition: 40% Merlot; 30% Cabernet Sauvignon; 10% Syrah; 10% Ancilotta; 10% 2008 Cesari La Mara, Valpolicella Superiore 2008 Gran Familia, DOCa Rioja, Spain Teroldego Ripasso, Italy ($15.99/bottle) ($12.99/bottle) Youthful, spicy nose with cherry, raisin and Black cherry nose with fig, dried fruit and Youthful, berry nose with lilac and vanilla dried fruit hints. Medium-bodied with mod- allspice hints. Medium-bodied with moder- hints. Medium-bodied with moderate acidity erate acidity and supple tannin – good ate acidity and supple tannin – good bal- and moderate tannin – good balance. Dark balance. Fruity palate with juicy, red berry ance. Soft, fruity palate with red berry cherry palate with tart rose petal notes. and tar notes. Moderate length, smooth notes. Moderate length with a smooth finish Moderate length, smooth with a touch of and easy-drinking – not for long aging. and hints of black pepper and vanilla on the oak. Drinking well now and should improve aftertaste. Drinking well now and should for another 2 to 3 years. Great value. 2006 Tralcio d’Oro Rosso, Colli Euganei improve with 2 to 3 years in bottle. DOC, Italy ($20.00/bottle)* 2009 Bodegas La Cartuja, DOCa Priorato, Composition: 60% Merlot; 40% Cabernet 2009 Avignonesi, Rosso di Montepulciano, Spain ($14.99/bottle) Sauvignon Italy ($12.99/bottle)
Fresh cherry nose with dried herb and slate Dark fruit nose with chocolate, cedar and Youthful, cherry nose with tar and floral hints. Medium-bodied with moderate acidity dried herb hints. Medium-bodied with mod- hints. Medium-bodied with moderate acidity and supple tannin – good balance. Fresh, erate acidity and firm tannin – good bal- and supple tannin – good balance. Smooth, fruity palate with cherry, raspberry and ance. Sour cherry palate with tar, violets black cherry fruit palate – earthy with floral lavender floral notes. Moderate length, and saddle leather notes. Moderate length notes. Long finish – lightly spicy with cedar smooth, youthful and spicy finish. Drinking – a little rustic. Some spice and vanilla on and vanilla. Drinking well and should im-
Page 6 MUSINGS ON THE VINE Regulatory Update—Massachusetts
House Bill 1029 that stalled in 2010 (House Bill 317.) Among other provisions, HB 1029 requires wineries to purchase a House Bill 1029 was heard on May 10, 2011 in the $100 shipping license, limits shipments to 24 cases Joint Committee on Consumer Protection and Profes- per year, and resolves the common carrier issue. sional Licensure. No vote was taken, although wine industry representatives provided verbal testimony. HB 1029, introduced in February, is similar to the bill
Notable Potables: Whites, Rosés, Reds, cont.
prove for another 3 to 5 years in bottle. and cedar on the aftertaste – need time – other 2 to 3 years in bottle. Great value! try again in 3 to 5 years. Great value! 2009 Potel-Aviron, Beaujolais-Village, France 2006 Cantina del Taburno Fidelis, Aglianico 2008 Les Cave de Saumur Les Pouches, ($11.99/bottle) del Taburno, Italy ($14.99/bottle) Saumur, France ($9.99/bottle) Fruity nose with lilac, fresh cherry and Ripe, red berry nose with mineral, anise Bright, fresh cherry nose with floral and mineral hints. Medium-bodied with firm and floral hints. Medium-bodied with mod- herbaceous hints – minerality. Medium- acidity and light, supple tannin – good bal- erate acidity and moderate tannin – good bodied with firm acidity and firm dry tannin ance. Fresh fruity palate with cherry, tarry balance. Spicy palate with briarwood and – good balance. Tart, almost sour palate – notes – a bit rough and clumsy. Moderate layered with cherry and lavender. Moderate good complexity – a little light. Moderate length with rose petals on the aftertaste. length – smooth with a stony finish. Drink- length with mineral and black pepper on the Drinking well now – not for aging. Good ing well now and should improve for an- aftertaste. Drinking well now – not for ag- value. other 2 to 3 years in bottle. Good value. ing. Good value. 2009 Jean-Marc Burgaud Chateau de Thulon, 2009 San Polo Rubio, Toscana IGT, Italy 2009 Les Cave de Saumur Les Villaises, Beaujolais-Village, France ($10.99/bottle) ($14.99/bottle) Saumur Champigny, France ($14.99/bottle) Fruity nose with banana chip, lavender and Earthy, rustic nose with black cherry, herbs Fruity nose with floral, fresh cherry and wet rose petal hints. Medium-bodied with mod- and saddle hints. Medium-bodied with stone hints. Medium-bodied with firm acid- erate acidity and firm tannin – good bal- moderate acidity and supple tannin – good ity and moderate tannin - good balance. ance. Ripe, fresh cherry palate with earthy balance. Fruity with sweet cherry fruit – ripe Dark fruit core with tar, jam and lilac notes. notes – gutsy. Moderate length, spicy with – lilac notes – really pretty. Moderate length Moderate length with an edgy finish - crisp, black cherry on the aftertaste. Drinking well – smooth with a spicy finish. Drinking well yet some nice residual complexity. Drinking now and should hold for another 2 to 3 now – not for aging. well now - not for aging. years in bottle. Great value.
2009 Domaine Brazilier Tradition, Coteaux du 2005 Lamé Delisle Bougard – Domaine des 2009 Jean-Marc Burgaud Les Charmes, Mor- Vendômois, France ($12.99/bottle Chesnaies Cuvee Prestige, Bourgueil, France gon, France ($14.99/bottle) Composition: A blend of Pineau d’Aunis, Cab- ($14.99/bottle) Fruity nose with floral and wet stone hints. ernet Franc and Pinot Noir Ripe, jammy nose with black cherry, herb Medium-bodied with moderate acidity and Fresh cherry nose with wet stone and floral and floral hints. Medium-to-full-bodied with firm tannin – good balance. Dark fruit core hints. Medium-bodied with firm acidity and moderate acidity and firm tannin – good with earthy, tarry notes. Moderate length – light tannin – good balance. Sour cherry balance. Fresh cherry palate with mint, tight with some herbaceous notes. Drinking palate – a bit tart – tarry with floral notes. currant and lilac notes. Moderate length – well now and should hold for another 2 to 3 Moderate length with a youthful finish. smooth and a little tight. Drinking well now years. Drinking well now and should hold for an- and should improve with another 3 to 5 other 2 to 3 years. Great value. years in bottle. Great value! 2009 Jean-Marc Burgaud Côte du Py – Vieil- les Vignes, Morgon, France ($17.99/bottle)
2009 Domaine de La Pépière La Pépiè Cot, 2009 Jean Francois Delorme, Rully, France Tight nose with black cherry and dried herb Vin de Pays du Val de Loire, France ($11.99/ ($19.99/bottle) hints. Full-bodied with moderate acidity and bottle) Ripe, raspberry aromas with dried herbs firm tannin – good balance. Jammy, dark Black currant and black cherry nose with and floral hints. Medium-bodied with mod- fruit core with mineral, lavender and cedar violets and black pepper. Medium-to-full- erate acidity and supple tannin – good notes. Moderate length – tight but smooth bodied with firm acidity and firm, dry tannin balance. Fruit forward palate with rasp- finish – needs time – try again in 3 years – – good balance. Tart cherry palate with berry, lavender and rose petal notes. Mod- good value. menthol, mint and floral notes. Tight. Mod- erate length with smooth, youthful finish. erate length – closed with tarry, tobacco Drinking well now and should hold for an- 2009 Chateau Guillou, Montagne Saint-
VOLUME 10, NO. 1 Page 7 Notable Potables: Whites, Rosés, Reds, cont.
Émilion, France ($17.99/bottle) Bronzinelle, Coteaux du Languedoc, France Côtes du Rhone, France ($14.99/bottle) ($15.99/bottle) Earthy, minerally nose with black cherry Ripe nose with jammy, cherry aromas – and black currant hints. Full-bodied with Lively, spicy nose with black cherry, all- lilac and fresh herb hints. Full-bodied with moderate acidity and supple tannin – well spice and dried herb hints. Medium-bodied moderate acidity and supple tannin – good balanced. Dark fruit core with plum, mint with moderate acidity and supple tannin – balance. Juicy palate with black cherry, and chocolate notes – pretty. Long finish, good balance. Sour cherry palate with vanilla and allspice notes – lovely. Moder- smooth with cedar hints on the aftertaste. black pepper, violet and tar notes. Moder- ate length with a smooth finish – young and Drinking well now and should improve with ate length with a smooth finish – very nice. quaffable – Drinking well now – not for another 3 to 5 years in the bottle. Drinking well now and should improve with aging. another 3 to 5 years in bottle. Great value! 2007 Chateau Fontaynes Cuvée Dorian, Ca- 2009 Montirus, Côtes du Rhone, France hors, France ($9.99/bottle) 2007 Domaine Chaume-Arnaud, Côtes du ($13.99/bottle)
Spicy, fruity nose with black cherry, currant Rhone, France ($13.99/bottle) Composition: 73% Grenache; 20% Syrah; 7% Mourvèdre and fresh herb hints. Medium-bodied with Earthy nose with spice, lilac and black moderate acidity and dry tannin – good cherry hints. Full-bodied with moderate Lively, fresh fruit nose with strawberry, lilac balance. Sour cherry palate – tart and tan- acidity and moderate tannin – good bal- and fresh herb hints. Medium-bodied with nic – tight with floral notes. Moderate length ance. Cherry palate with anise, leather and moderate acidity and supple tannin – good with some allspice and black pepper on the mint notes. Moderate length with vanilla balance. Fresh fruity palate with bright aftertaste. Needs time to open up – try and sour cherry on the aftertaste. Drinking cherry, black pepper, anise and mint notes. again in 3 years. Good value. well now and should hold for another 2 to 3 Moderate length, smooth and easy drink- years. ing. Drinking well now – not for aging. 2007 Chateau de Flaugergues Cuvée Som- Great value! meliere, Coteaux du Languedoc, France 2009 Saint Cosme, Côtes du Rhone, France ($15.99/bottle) ($14.99/bottle) 2009 Seigneur de Fontimple, Vacqueryas,
Ripe, jammy nose with black cherry, cur- Ripe, bright cherry nose with floral and France ($14.99/bottle) rant and rose attar hints. Full-bodied with dried herb hints. Medium-bodied with mod- Composition: 70% Grenache; 20% Syrah; 10% Mourvèdre moderate acidity and supple tannin – good erate acidity and supple tannin – well bal- balance. Fruity, lively palate with fresh anced. Youthful and a bit rustic. Black Tight nose with faint lavender, mint and cherry, floral and fresh herb notes. Moder- cherry palate with jammy, tar and spicy black cherry hints. Medium-bodied with ate length, smooth with black pepper on the notes. Moderate length with cedar and moderate acidity and firm tannin – good aftertaste. Drinking well now and should vanilla on the aftertaste. Drinking well now balance. Fresh cherry palate with spice, improve with another 2 to 3 years in bottle. and should improve with another 3 to 5 vanilla and earthy notes. Moderate length Great value! years in bottle. Good value. with a smooth finish. Drinking well now and should improve with another 2 to 3 years in 2008 Chateau Saint Martin de la Garrigue 2009 Domaine La Garrigue Cuvée Romaine, bottle. Upcoming Musings Events—Fall 2011
Smart Wine Shopping room of Martignetti’s Fine Wine in Brighton, will put these two regions to the test. At this Saturday in September/October (TBD) Wine Director George Bardis will help me lead event we will taste at least six wines in a reen- $50 the group through a selection of fun, high- actment of the historic 1976 tasting. Of
One of the biggest questions that I get at my value wines, culminating in a guided shopping course, the wines will be from more recent wine classes is: How do you shop for wine? tour of the store. vintages, but the experience should be quite Wine shopping is really about relationship similar. building. While you can spend a lot of time Napa/Bordeaux Shootout – Part IV scurrying around town looking for the best Saturday, September 24, 2011 Northern Rhone wine at the best price, your time will be better $100 Saturday, October 8, 2011 $50 spent cultivating a rapport at a few local wine Back in 2004, we conducted a simulation of shops. Getting to know the owners, or knowl- the famous 1976 tasting that pitted Cabernet- The Rhone Valley is one of the oldest viticul- edgeable sales staff at a local wine shop, or based wines from Napa Valley against the tural areas in France, with many vineyards more importantly getting them to know more some of the best that Bordeaux had to offer. being originally cultivated by the conquering about your own tastes and interests will ulti- In 2007 and 2009 we again reprised the fa- Romans. Most folks are most familiar with the mately lead to a more enriching shopping mous standoff. Popular demand has brought sun-soaked regions in the Southern Rhone: experience. At this event, hosted in the back this event back to Musings, so once again we Côtes du Rhone, Chateauneuf-du-Pape,
Page 8 MUSINGS ON THE VINE
Musings on the Vine was conceived with a few very simple goals: PAUL J. MALAGRIFA, CWE, CSS, CSW One, to share my passion and excitement of wine with anyone who cares to listen, and by doing so engender similar excitement in others. Two, to strip away the mysteries surrounding the ap-
preciation of wine, making wine tasting, buying and collecting fun and unassuming. And three, to Musings on The Vine provide a resource for those people who don't necessarily want to become a Master Sommelier, E-mail: [email protected] but instead just want to be able to buy something decent to drink with dinner tonight. I hope that my readers find this newsletter to be informative and enjoyable!
Upcoming Musings Events—Fall 2011, cont.
Gigondas, etc. where Grenache, Mourvèdre wines will be from varieties and regions where late 19th Century through today, the wines of and Cinsault are the likely suspects. Few are aging wine is a requirement (like Bordeaux). North America have been an evolving and as familiar with the less showy, more refined improving lot, many offering a serious chal- wines of the Northern Rhone: Côte Rotie, The Wines of North America lenge to their European forefathers. At this Hermitage, Saint-Joseph, Cornas, Crozes- Saturday, November 19, 2011 event we will taste a number of wines from Hermitage and the whites Condrieu and Châ- $50 many important regions across North Amer- teau Grillet. In the North, the reds are all The history of wine making in North America ica. Syrah-based, most 100%, so the wines often began with European exploration and coloni- more structure than their cousins in the south. zation, much the way it began in other regions Fortified Wines outside of Europe. Early experiments with Saturday, December 10, 2011 Older Wines – Part IV $100 what are known as “non-vinifera” native varie- Saturday, October 22, 2011 tals were not successful and attempts to grow Much fortified wine was born out of a need to $100 the noble, “vinifera” varietals from Europe preserve fragile wines on long voyages over Back by popular demand! Most wine today is failed also. Hostile climates, hungry indige- land and sea. The presence of alcohol in meant to be consumed the moment it is nous pests and other nasty diseases proved excess of 15% by volume has a preservative bought. Ripe, fruity wines that are “ready to too much for the vine. Fortunately, settlers effect on wine. Often sweet, but not always drink” are the order of the day. Given this fact, were a persistent and thirsty lot who could so, fortified wine is usually reserved for after many wine drinkers today have not had a only drink so much rum, madiera, sherry and dinner, where it is the accompaniment to chance to taste older, well aged wines. At this port, and over time improved technology, the dessert or cheese. At this event we will taste event we will taste several wines that have at settling into better growing areas and just several fortified wines from a variety of re- least 15 years of bottle age on them. The plain better luck prevailed. From about the gions and styles, both sweet and dry. Ask the Sommelier—Featured Question! Question: What do you think would be a good, reliable choice for situations where you are invited to a friend's house for dinner and are asked to pick up wine when all you know is chicken is the entree with no other details?! Something that would be a good choice, without breaking the bank, but versatile - your “go-to” kind of wine. Thanks for your help!
Answer: Good question! I hate to fall back on the old adage, "red with beef, white with chicken or fish," but that seems to make sense here. My “go- to” whites in these situations are: French: Sancerre, Bordeaux Blanc (Sauvignon Blanc); Italy: Soave, Vernaccia, Orvieto; Spain: Rueda, Rias Baixas. I'm a little leery on New World offerings in this situation, largely because the fruit forward nature of most New World wines tends to clash more with food. I might look for Viognier from either South Africa or the US, Riesling from Chile or Australia and possibly Chardonnay from New Zealand. Good luck and thanks for the question!
Have a wine question? Go to www.MusingsOnTheVine.com, and click on Ask the Sommelier!