Our Mission Providence The mission of California State Parks is n the middle of the to provide for the health, inspiration and I education of the people of California by helping Mojave Desert, Jack and Mountains to preserve the state’s extraordinary biological diversity, protecting its most valued natural and Ida Mitchell shared with cultural resources, and creating opportunities State Recreation Area for high-quality outdoor recreation. thousands of fortunate visitors the cool beauty of the caverns’ magnificent “draperies” and “coral California State Parks supports equal access. Prior to arrival, visitors with disabilities who pipes” formations. need assistance should contact the park at (760) 928-2586. This publication is available in alternate formats by contacting:

CALIFORNIA STATE PARKS P.O. Box 942896 Sacramento, CA 94296-0001 For information call: (800) 777-0369 (916) 653-6995, outside the U.S. 711, TTY relay service

www.parks.ca.gov

Discover the many states of California.™ Providence Mountains State Recreation Area 38200 Essex Road or P.O. Box 1 Essex, CA 92332 (760) 928-2586

© 2010 California State Parks V isitors to Providence Mountains State that left abundant shell-covered organisms Recreation Area are greeted by the sight on the sea floor. of jagged slopes of gray limestone, topped The shells and plant materials that by volcanic peaks of red rhyolite. Located settled on the sea bottom eventually on the eastern slope of the Providence became limestone. As the restless land Mountains Range, the park lies within the heaved upward, these formations were boundaries of the 1.6-million acre Mojave pushed above the level of the former National Preserve. From its vantage point ocean bed. at 4,300 feet above the valley floor, the park Fountain Peak and Edgar Peak, at the headquarters offers stunning views of the westernmost edge of the park, stand nearly surrounding Mojave Desert. On extremely 7,000 feet above sea level. These peaks clear days, the distant granite peaks of are composed of Jurassic-aged Fountain Arizona’s Hualapai Mountains are visible. Peak Rhyolite, which intruded into the limestone about 150 million years ago. Over PARK HISTORY time, the overlying rocks eroded and were Travertine (limestone cave deposits) forms Geology transported bit by bit to the expansive “draperies” on the walls at Mitchell Caverns. The park has the oldest known rocks of basins of today’s Mojave Desert. the State Park System—pre-Cambrian About 12 million years ago, this area was saturated with dissolved calcium from granitoids as old as 1.7 billion years. These much wetter than today and covered with the limestone parent rock. As the water ancient rocks can be seen as outcroppings luxuriant vegetation. Rainwater seeped evaporated, it left behind thin layers of on the slopes below the dark to creamy gray through the soil, absorbing carbon dioxide calcite crystals. Over millennia, these limestone of the Bird Spring Formation. The and forming a weak solution of carbonic countless drops of water created the fanciful contact between the pre-Cambrian rocks acid. The acid dissolved the underlying and intricate formations that make up (gneiss) and the overlying Paleozoic Bird limestone, enlarging cracks and pockets Mitchell Caverns. Spring Formation was created by movement that eventually joined to form subterranean Native People along the East Providence fault. The Bird chambers and passageways. Over thousands The Chemehuevi (pronounced Chem-e- Spring Formation represents a 50-million- of years, the water table dropped, emptying WAY-vee) people, a branch of the Southern year period of quiet stability—when this the caverns and leaving the area intensely Paiute, have lived in the area of region was covered by a warm, shallow sea dry. Small amounts of groundwater became Providence Mountains SRA for at least 500 effectively. Some eventually took years. Known among themselves as Nüwü, menial jobs in mining camps. or the People, they migrated into the area The years of greatest prosperity beginning about 1,000 years ago. for the mining industry were When the Spanish arrived in the late from 1870 to 1893, when the U.S. 1700s, they were the first to document the government was buying up most Chemehuevi as a distinctive group of people. of the silver ore at high prices. Modern local Chemehuevi live and work in When the government stopped Twentynine Palms, Banning, and Indio. buying large amounts of silver, Europeans the industry began its decline. Father Francisco Garcés, the first European in Small mines closed, and in the the area, crossed the Mojave Desert in 1776 economic recession of 1907, mining on his way to the San Gabriel Mission. Fifty investment stopped. years later, Jedediah Smith and a party of During the late 1920s and early trappers took the same route. The proximity Jack and Ida Mitchell at cavern entrance, ca. 1940 1930s, people periodically attempted of water sources governed the construction of to prospect in the abandoned mines. wagon roads and settlements, and remnants of prospectors arrived, seeking their share A few would-be miners brought their families of some wayside camps are visible today. of the silver, lead, gold and copper they had with them, taking up residence in abandoned heard about. Soon the area was home to tent mine buildings. Mining cities—some of which became permanent The Providence Mountains were named by Jack Mitchell settlements. In 1929 amateur silver miner Jesse E. travelers who believed that abundant water The arrival of miners devastated the sources had been “sent from Providence.” “Jack” Mitchell, on a trip to the Providence culture of the native people. Water and food Mountains, visited two limestone Around the early 1860s, word got out that the sources were overtaken by the new arrivals, area was rich in mineral deposits. Thousands caverns locally known as the “Crystal” or and the Chemehuevi were powerless to resist “Providence” Caverns. The idea of turning these caverns into a tourist attraction included geodes (hollow, crystal-lined mountain lions, coyotes, gray foxes and excited Mitchell. rocks), petroglyphs (rocks covered with bobcats hunt in the dark hours. Plentiful Mitchell staked mineral claims on what prehistoric art work), speleothems (cavern bird species include Gambel’s quails, piñon are now the Mitchell Caverns in 1930. limestone), limestone with fossils, and jays, roadrunners and cactus wrens. In 1932, nearly ruined by bad business bits of glass. Inside the caverns, ventures, Jack and his wife Ida moved to the A New State Park elusive cave species include desert to try prospecting for silver. To keep Beginning in the 1940s, Ida Mitchell ringtails—small, carnivorous his claims valid according to mining law, petitioned the California Division of raccoon-like mammals—and Mitchell needed to show ongoing progress. Beaches and Parks to add Mitchell Caverns Townsend’s big-eared bats. He built tunnels, shipped ore and hired an to its inventory of parks. Following Jack Many cavern dwellers are attorney to file patents on the claims. Mitchell’s death in 1954, the State nearly invisible. Tiny crab- Mitchell’s dream of sharing the beauties of California agreed to accept like creatures are called Niptus of the caverns stayed alive, and lack Mitchell Caverns as a state stingerless pseudoscorpions. beetle of money did not stop him. While he reserve. In 1972 the caverns Spider-like Niptus beetles are constructed stone houses and other and reserve became part of found only in the El Pakiva Cave at the buildings, he and Ida lived in the Providence Mountains State caverns but nowhere else on Earth. mines. The rocky, dry terrain was Recreation Area. nearly impassable, so Mitchell moved rocks with hand tools, creating a Vegetation four-mile trail from an existing road The plants growing in the to his property. To bring water to his Mojave Desert are tough property, he laid pipe from a spring 3/4 survivors, and many are prized for their medicinal properties. of a mile away in a steep canyon down Barrel cactus to the house he had built. Drought-resistant piñon pines, Over the next 20 years, Jack and Ida junipers and scrub oaks thrive in the canyon did not amass much wealth; most of their above Crystal Springs. Drifts of wildflowers, income came from the $1-per-person fees such as the perennial Mormon tea, can be they charged tour groups, and from the seen in spring. Other species include the meals that Ida cooked for their visitors. evergreen cliff rose, Mojave and banana Four of Jack’s buildings, made from found yucca and barrel cactus. materials, still stand in today’s park. The Wildlife Mitchells’ native-stone home is now the The animal species occupying this visitor center. Mitchell built three other landscape include badgers—aggressive guest buildings—two stone guest dwellings carnivores that prey on the park’s antelope and a small, rounded stone structure squirrels, cottontail rabbits and small sometimes called “the igloo” that Jack rodents. Various lizard and snake species Mitchell termed “the Honeymoon Cottage.” do well in this habitat. Rarely, bighorn The rocks he used for the buildings sheep are seen, and predators such as RECREATION Reservations for group tours should be ACCESSIBLE FEATURES Climate—Dress in layers and carry made three weeks in advance. Camping—The campground has two fairly level water on outdoor walks. Spring and fall Trails—The Mary Beal Nature Trail, sites (#1 and #2). Level parking is nearby. temperatures reach the 70s and 80s. near the visitor center, is a self-guided Restrooms—A unisex restroom at the west end June through August temperatures often moderate walk. Crystal Spring Trail, a more of the campground also serves the visitor center. exceed 100 degrees. The caverns maintain strenuous one-mile walk, leads to a spring A drinking fountain and telephone are nearby. a constant 65-degree temperature above the visitor center. The half-mile Visitor center—Both the visitor center and the throughout the year. Niña Mora Trail is named for the child of a route of travel between the parking lot and the Cavern tours—Spectacular and intricate Mexican silver miner who worked here in visitor center are accessible. limestone formations include stalagmites, the early 1900s. The trail passes near the Cavern Tours—Visitors may need assistance stalactites, helictites, lily pads, draperies, child’s grave marker and offers matchless with slopes and uneven surfaces on the 1.5- curtains and popcorn. On busy weekends views of desert grandeur. mile round trip tour. The inside path is firm and and holiday weeks, tours often sell out. Camping—Six campsites are sold first- stable. Many stairs are of uniform height, and there are some handrails in the caves. Some Call the park first at (760) 928-2586 for come, first-served. Primitive campsites passages are as low as 62 inches tall and as updated tour information and to begin have flush toilets, picnic tables and fire narrow as 14 inches wide. the group tour reservation process. rings; no showers are available.

PLEASE REMEMBER center. They must be under • In order to protect the fragile a person’s immediate control limestone formations, the caverns may and on a leash no longer than be seen only on guided tours. six feet at all times. They • Bring your own drinking water—the must not be left in vehicles park’s water supply is limited—and under any circumstances. extra food and gasoline. Gas stations Clean up after your pet. and stores are many miles away. • Do not enter caves or mines • Respect the desert climate. Dress without a permit or approved appropriately for extremes of weather; prior arrangements. winter can bring high winds and cold, • Stay alert and watchful for wet or even snowy weather. rattlesnakes, cactus spines • No smoking is allowed on trails, in the and tree thorns. Stay on trails caverns, or during tours. for your safety. • Pets are permitted only in the • Camping is permitted only in campground and near the visitor the designated campsites. MITCHELL CAVERNS MAP (aerial view) HIGHLIGHTS OF THE CAVERN TOUR Escape from the dry, hot landscape into the cool caverns; their intricate dripstone forms will capture your imagination. Visitors walk through the two main caves, which Mitchell named El Pakiva (The Devil’s House) and Tecopa (after a Shoshonean chieftain). Admire the stalactites flowing from the ceiling like draperies, the beautiful cave shields, and the staunch stalagmites—formed when mineral deposits dripping from the stalactites built up from the floor, sometimes meeting to form a solid column. Marvel at the graceful waterfall shapes of flowstone, left behind when water seeped down the stone walls, over rocks, and down onto the cave floor. You will also see rimstone dams, thin calcite deposits that formed around the edges of ancient pools of water. The small clusters of knobs, found in only seven caves around the world, are called coral pipes. Among the most curious formations are helictites, which take random, gravity-defying shapes. These delicate features curve and seem to wander in various directions, the likely result of capillary forces working on infinitesimal water droplets, where the capillary forces are stronger than simple gravity. This park receives support in part through a nonprofit organization. For information, contact the Poppy Reserve/Mojave Desert Interpretive Association, P. O. Box 1408, Lancaster, CA 93584-9008