National Park Service Park Guide U.S. Department of the Interior & News

Issue 10 / Fall 2006

Mojave National Preserve I Jin André Jin

Welcome to Mojave As the new superintendent of Mojave National Preserve I want to extend my personal welcome and my hope that your visit will be rewarding. Rangers here are about the friendliest and most knowledgeable around−in fact, in our latest visi- tor survey, they achieved a 99% good or excel- lent visitor satisfaction rate. Rangers are eager to help you plan your visit and share their excite- ment and knowledge, so please ask them.

You will soon find that this Preserve protects a vast area of the Mojave Desert ecosystem and offers opportunities to enjoy a variety of unique desert environs, including: sand dunes, Joshua tree forests, cactus gardens, cinder cones, quiet canyon hikes, backcountry road trips by four- wheel-drive, and visits to old mines and military outposts. Campers will experience the dark night sky and see an amazing number of stars.

Cooler fall temperatures make this a great time of year to drive out to the desert, and the newly opened Kelso Depot Visitor Center is a great destination for a day-trip. The renovation and re-opening of this marvelous building could not Rob Fulton Rob Lake Tuendae, on the edge of Soda Dry Lake, provides a stunning backdrop for California State University’s Desert Studies Center. have happened without the efforts of people and organizations from across the region. For- mer railroad employees, local tribes, and many others contributed to the exhibits. I encourage Desert Studies Center Celebrates 30 everyone to see this desert landmark.

This year, Mojave had its share of wildfires that Years at Zzyzx were quickly attacked and extinguished by By Rob Fulton, Manager, CSU Desert Studies Center remains, and resort developments, at the unique oasis, while still allowing for interagency fire crews. In July alone there were IN LATE 1974, A FEW VISIONARY PROFESSORS a time of increasing awareness of eco- public access and appreciation. 22 fire starts! If you visit Mid Hills or Hole-in-the- from the California State University logical issues and their importance to Wall you’ll still see the remnants of last year’s system (CSU) saw an opportunity to a rapidly growing population. A criti- Thus it was, in July of 1976, that CSU Hackberry Complex of Fires that burned nearly enhance education and research in cal part of the mix was the presence of and BLM signed a Cooperative Agree- 80,000 acres. Spring brought a profusion of natural environments. The opportunity a minnow in the man-made ponds at ment outlining shared management wildflowers in the burn areas, and bitterbrush and banana yucca are vigorously re-sprouting took the form of an abandoned mineral Zzyzx, the Mohave tui chub, which had of the site. The University formed the from old stems. While this is encouraging, it will springs resort on the shore of Soda Dry recently been listed as an endangered California Desert Studies Consortium be decades before the pinyon and juniper forest Lake, now in Mojave National Pre- species. to act as the governing body for the op- that used to cover these slopes returns. Several serve. At that time, the former Zzyzx erations of the newly established Desert research projects are underway to learn as much Mineral Springs Resort was under the Several groups and organizations Studies Center (DSC), drawing modest as we can about the recovery process here. jurisdiction of the Bureau of Land Man- showed an interest in the site and made funding and board members from seven agement (BLM), who had sought the proposals for its use. The BLM even of the university’s campuses in South- Many adventures await you at Mojave National removal of the resort’s developer, Curtis considered bulldozing the buildings and ern California. A director was elected, a Preserve. I encourage you to experience the Howe Springer, when it was determined trying to rehabilitate the area to “natu- small staff hired, and the daunting task diversity of the desert by taking short walks in that his operations illegally occupied ral” conditions. Eventually, the BLM of bringing the facilities up to standards various habitats. If you would like to learn more federal land under mining claims. declared the site an “Area of Critical En- began. about park resources or management activities, vironmental Concern,” and determined stop by the Kelso Depot, visit our website, or call the headquarters information number listed The BLM’s dilemma was what to do that CSU’s proposal for a teaching and Most of the infrastructure of the old on page two of this guide. with the ecologically and culturally rich research facility was most compatible Zzyzx Mineral Springs Resort was in oasis, with all its exceptional wetlands with their management goals of protect- disrepair, vandalized, or did not meet Dennis Schramm (continued on page 4) and other diverse habitats, historical ing the natural and cultural resources of Superintendent 3 Turtle & Tortoise 4 Fire in the desert 4 The desert deer Contact information, weather...2 Dirt Road Driving...3 The desert tortoise and the loggerhead sea turtle Lightning strikes during the summer of 2006 hunt Desert deer hunting is challenging, but has are both threatened species. Learn about the kept Mojave interagency fire crews busy. Fire Scenic drives...5 similarities and differences between these two fighters responded to 29 fires inside park its own rewards. fascinating reptiles. boundaries, and more than 30 additional Camping …6 fires across the desert. Hiking ...7

Map…8 ...... National Park Service U.S. Department of the Interior Kelso Depot Visitor Center

Built in 1924, the Kelso Depot was used as a train station, employee Mojave National Preserve housing, and restaurant by the Union Pacific Railroad. The building shut down completely in 1985.

Established in 1994, Mojave National Recently renovated, the Depot has re-opened as the new Visitor Cen- Preserve encompasses 1.6 million acres ter for Mojave National Preserve. The building now houses an infor- ranging in elevation from 800 feet near mation desk, bookstore, and exhibits describing the natural world of Baker to 7,929 feet at Clark Mountain. the desert and the people who have lived and worked here. Here, three of the four major North American deserts meet. Although most Kelso Depot Visitor Center is open from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily except of the park lies in the Mojave Desert, the Christmas Day. southeast section grades into Sonoran Desert, and elements of the Great Basin Desert are found at higher elevations east of the Granite, Providence and New York Temperatures: Average high/low Mountains. Hantavirus in degrees Fahrenheit

Superintendent Granite Mountain Zzyzx Dennis Schramm Alert Elevation 4,200 feet Elevation 930 feet

Chief Ranger January 50/36 61/34 Denny Ziemann Deer mouse, a carrier of the Hantavirus. 54/38 69/40 February Chief, Resource Interpretation (Acting) Hantavirus pulmonary syndrome ing in the virus, touching your 59/41 74/46 Linda Slater March is a respiratory disease caused by a mouth or nose after handling 68/48 83/53 virus shed by deer mice and other contaminated materials, or April rodents. The disease is extremely from a rodent bite. Contact Information May 75/54 93/61 rare, but very serious: there is no cure, and nearly half of the known 85/63 103/70 Mailing Address Symptoms include fatigue, June 2701 Barstow Road patients have died. fever and muscle aches, fol- July 90/67 109/77 Barstow, CA 92311 lowed by coughing and short- The risk of exposure is highest ness of breath as the lungs fill August 89/66 107/75 E-mail in rural areas, especially in aban- with fluid. 83/61 100/68 Click on “Contact Us” at nps.gov/moja doned cabins where rodents are September

present. Hantavirus has now been To avoid exposure to hantavi- October 73/52 77/55 Park Headquarters reported in 31 states. rus, use extreme caution when 760 252-6100 59/41 73/43 exploring abandoned build- November The disease spreads to people ings. If you see droppings or 50/34 62/34 Fax Number December when rodent urine, droppings, or nests, stay away. Don’t camp in 760 252-6174 Average Annual nesting materials are stirred up. areas where rodent droppings Precipitation 8.5 inches 3.37 inches You may be infected by breath- are present......

Information

Entrance Fee Weather There is currently no entrance fee for Mojave National Preserve. Expect wide fluctuations in day-nightAnnual Precipitation temperatures, 8.5 inches seasonal 0.37 inches strong winds, and bright, clear skies. At low elevations, temperatures above 100 degrees F. typically begin in May and can last into Octo- Dates and Hours of Operation ber. Annual precipitaton ranges from 3.5 inches at low elevations to nearly ten inches in the moun- Mojave National Preserve never closes. Two information centers offer orientation and maps. tains. Most rain falls between November and April; summer thunderstorms may bring sudden heavy rainfall and flash flooding. Strong winds occur in fall, late winter, and early spring. Kelso Depot Visitor Center Located 35 miles south of Baker on Kelbaker Road. Open daily 9 a.m. to 5 p.m., except Christmas Telephone & Web Directory Day. Phone 760 733-4456. Emergency 911 Emergency: Interagency Communications Center 909-383-5651 Hole-in-the-Wall Information Center San Bernardino County Sheriff - Baker 760-256-1796 Located near Hole-in-the-Wall Campground. Winter hours (October through April) Wednesday - Needles 760-326-9200 through Sunday from 9:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. Summer hours (May through September) Friday through Sunday, 9:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. Phone 760-928-2572. Mojave National Preserve Barstow Headquarters Office 760-252-6100 Gasoline Hole-in-the-Wall Fire Center 760-928-2573 There are no gas stations in the park, so be sure to fill up before entering. Gas is sold along I-40 Hole-in-the Wall Information Center 760-928-2572 at Needles, Fenner, and Ludlow, along I-15 at Baker, Cima Road, and Primm, and along U.S. 95 at Kelso Depot Visitor Center 760-733-4456 Searchlight and at the Nevada 163 junction south of Cal Nev Ari. Kelso Ranger Station 760-733-4011

Water Nearby parks Always carry plenty of drinking water in your car and especially when hiking. The only drinking Anza Borrego Desert State Park 760-767-4205 water available within the park is at Kelso Depot Visitor Center, Hole-in-the-Wall and Black Canyon Calico Ghost Town 760-254-2122 Campgrounds, and at the Providence Mountains State Recreation Area (Mitchell Caverns) Camp- Death Valley National Park 760-786-2331 ground. Joshua Tree National Park 760-367-5500 Lake Mead National Recreation Area 702-293-8990 Lodging Mitchell Caverns/Providence Mountains State Park 760-928-2586 There are no motels within the park. Lodging can be found in Barstow, Nipton, Ludlow, Needles, and Baker, and Twentynine Palms, California, and in Primm and Searchlight, Nevada. Mojave National Preserve www.nps.gov/moja Permits National Park Service www.nps.gov Recreation Permit $50.00 Bookstore (Western National Parks Association) www.wnpa.org A Recreation Permit is required for all organized events, including school groups, hiking clubs, jeep CSU Desert Studies Center http://biology.fullerton.edu/facilities/dsc/zzyzx.html tour groups and scouting groups, or for any group of more than 15 individuals or 7 vehicles. Proof Bureau of Land Management www.blm.gov of insurance may be required. For more information, call (760) 252 6107, or click on “Permits” at California Desert www.californiadesert.gov nps.gov/moja. Leave No Trace www.lnt.org Mitchell Caverns/Providence Mtns. State Park www.calparksmojave.com/providence Special Use Permit $200.00 Wilderness System information www.wilderness.net A Special Use Permit is required for large, organized events and commercial activities such as film- Federal government jobs www.usajobs.opm.gov ing. Proof of insurance and posting of a bond may also be required. For more information, call (760) Desert USA wildflower reports www.desertusa.com/wildflo/wildupdates 252-6107, or click on “Permits”at nps.gov/moja.

2 Mojave National Preserve An uncertain future for two ancient species

By Hilary Clark, Park Ranger THE DESERT TORTOISE (GOPHERUS agassizii) and the loggerhead sea turtle (Caretta caretta) both share a 340 mil- lion year evolution, and also a threat- ened status which leaves them with a precarious future.

In California and Arizona, tortoises construct their burrows in both the Mojave and Sonoran Deserts. Along the eastern beaches from New Jersey to Texas, sea turtles lay and bury their eggs in the sand. Unprecedented de- above: the loggerhead sea turtle makes a slow return to the ocean after laying eggs velopment in desert communities and on the beach.

oceanfront properties has meant that right: the desert tortoise contends with the encroachment of people into its habitat. Slater Doug both desert tortoises and loggerhead sea turtles have fewer places to live and Desert tortoises can store water in the hide their head underneath their shell. reproduce. When tortoises cross roads bladder as an internal reserve. As they age, sea turtles risk entanglement Protect the which dissect desert land, they can be in fishing lines and trawlers. Autopsies crushed by vehicles, just as over-sand Both have a carapace, which is the up- on sea turtles show many a death that Desert Tortoise trucks kill sea turtle hatchlings along per half of their shell, connected to a result from consumption of plastic bags Do not pick up or harass a tortoise: observe barrier island beaches. Tire ruts may plastron, the lower half. The desert tor- which they perceive as jellyfish. it from a distance. Tortoises store water in further prevent hatchlings from reach- toise has an elongated bony area called their bladders and can re-absorb the liquid ing the ocean. Loss of habitat and in- the gular horn which the male uses to Pollutants in ocean waters are as det- during a drought. When frightened, they discriminate vehicle use are only a few prove his prowess as a mate. The tor- rimental to sea turtles as releasing pet frequently empty their bladders. Loss of this of the threats to these reptiles; they face toise will lay from three to five eggs in a tortoises is to wild desert tortoises. important water source can be fatal. a myriad of complicated obstacles to clutch, whereas loggerheads can have as Contact with people exposes pet tor- their continued survival. many as 50 to 300 eggs. toises to a fatal upper respiratory dis- Check under your vehicle before driving ease which can then be spread to wild away. Tortoises enjoy the shade under your car on a hot day. Although linked by their vulnerability, Sea turtle eggs, protected under beach tortoises. With so many threats, popu- the two reptiles are separated by their sand, are sensitive to any temperature lations of both the desert tortoise and Observe posted speed limits, and be espe- physiological differences. A desert tor- the sea turtle have been declining; both changes which can result from raking, cially watchful during and after rainstorms, toise may weigh nine pounds and live beach nourishment (dumping addition- are now under the protection of the when tortoises often enter roadways to for 80 years whereas a sea turtle can al sand on beaches), and other human Endangered Species Act, described by drink from puddles. reach 900 pounds and live to be 100. disturbances. Artificial light can disori- the US Fish and Wildlife Service as the The desert tortoise has columnar legs ent sea turtle hatchlings away from the “last barrier to extinction.” National Keep vehicles on established roads only. with heavy claws, while sea turtles have ocean and lead to their death. Desert Park Service areas like Mojave National Vehicles will crush tortoise burrows, killing streamlined bodies and powerful flip- tortoise hatchlings are equally vulner- Preserve in California and Gulf Islands the tortoises and eggs within. pers. Desert tortoises thrive on flowers, able as prey for coyotes, golden eagles, National Seashore in Florida provide leaves, cacti and grasses, whereas log- kit foxes, and especially ravens, whose protected habitat for these vulnerable Do not release captive tortoises. They may gerheads feast on crabs, mollusks, and numbers are increasing dramatically creatures. Yet, preserves and parks carry diseases that can be transmitted to wild tortoises. Instead, turn them in to a jellyfish. Both have unique mechanisms because they scavenge at dumpsters and cannot ensure the survival of a species. licensed tortoise rescue center. For informa- for surviving extreme environments, other concentrations of garbage. Sea Volunteers participate heavily in moni- tion, call 760-252-6101. from the ocean depths to the rugged, turtle hatchlings float among sargassam toring sea turtle nesting; in the Mojave arid deserts. The blood of a sea turtle weed and debris in hopes of staying Desert it is critical that the public un- can quickly replace oxygen to major concealed from potential predators. derstand how their actions can effect tissues at extreme underwater depths. Unlike the desert tortoise, they cannot the desert tortoise.

Barstow students help protect the desert tortoise Dirt Road Driving Rules of the Road FIRST GRADERS AT LENWOOD ELEMENTARY SCHOOL NEAR Driving tips for sand and mud All vehicles operating within Mojave Barstow, California, raised $214 to buy an acre of land to do- National Preserve must be street- nate to Mojave National Preserve by collecting aluminum • Use low gearing and just enough throt- legal in accordance with California cans and plastic bottles to recycle. For the students, the goal tle to maintain forward movement DMV requirements. This includes was to insure the protection of desert tortoise habitat, after current registration and tags, learning that loss of habitat to development was one of the • Engage 4-wheel drive before entering lights and turn signals, and many threats contributing to the decline of desert tortoise deep sand or mud. valid insurance. California “Green Sticker” and “Red populations. • Turn the steering wheel rapidly from Sticker” programs are not side-to-side if you sense a loss of traction. recognized within the park. “With their effort, coupled with an $86 contribution from San This can help to generate traction. Bernardino County’s waste management department, we pre- • Don’t gun the engine. This will spin the sented a check for $300 to the National Park Service to add a Road Conditions tires and dig you down, not forward, and Road conditions vary widely. little bit of land to the Preserve,” teacher Ginger O’Brian said. could bury you to the frame. Smooth, Dirt roads may be rough. “Eighty students in four classrooms collected the recyclables. easy power is better than too much Sandy or muddy roads may travel cross-country or create new It was part of our program to teach children to understand power. be impassable, trapping the routes. This rule is strictly enforced; and appreciate the desert. Hopefully they will continue this unprepared motorist many citations are issued for violators. • If your vehicle gets stuck, put solid appreciation throughout their lives.” miles from help. Watch for Watch for and respect Wilderness material such as floor mats under tires to cattle, burros, and wildlife on Boundary signs; motorized vehi- gain traction. Since Mojave National Preserve was established in 1994, there roadways. cles (and bicycles) are not allowed in Wilderness Areas. Driving in has been a continuing effort by private citizens and non-profit • If you are really stuck, it’s best to stay washes is not permitted. organizations to purchase private lands within the park’s with your vehicle since it is much easier Not all roads are shown on all maps; traces and illegal boundaries and donate the lands to the National Park Service to find than someone traveling on foot. Your Vehicle Avoid strenuous activity during the heat of shortcuts add to the confusion. to create a more cohesive park. Private land acreages within Ensure that your vehicle is in the day. Stay in the shade of your vehicle. Carry a good map and ask a Mojave have dropped from 220,000 in 1994 to just under park ranger for current road good condition. Check your tires, 100,000 acres today. conditions. oil, and gas gauge before you leave. Be prepared for an emer- Lenwood teachers Ginger O’Brian, Wendi Matley, Melissa Traveling off pavement within gency. Carry a tire jack, tools, Moor and Debbie Williams spearheaded the project, which was the park is allowed only on ex- towrope, and extra water and just one component of their conservation education program. isting, open dirt roads. Do not fluids for your vehicle.

Mojave National Preserve 3 Summer lightning strikes kept Mojave fire crews busy Alan Romspert Alan

Desert Studies Center celebrates 30 years

(continued from page 1) Duncan Tim codes. Students were enlisted to help Fire burns through Joshua trees on Cima Dome during the Valley Wells fire. The blaze was quickly contained with only 70 acres burned. with the renovations, guided by carpen- ters, electricians and plumbers from LIGHTNING STRIKES FROM EARLY JULY TO San Joaquin Valley, California, rotated California State University Fullerton, early August started 29 separate fires in through Mojave. which eventually became the DSC’s Mojave National Preserve. Fire crews home campus. Although some teach- were able keep the fires from spreading, “The fire fighters did a tremendous job ing, research and public tours began with only about 1,500 acres burned. of keeping these fires from spreading in shortly after its establishment, much spite of the heavy fuel load,” said Heard. of the activity during the DSC’s first Other parts of the Mojave Desert expe- “The additional crews allowed us to re- decade involved scraping, painting, Fulton Rob rienced large fires due to dried vegeta- act quickly and keep fire acreages small.” re-roofing, window replacement, wire top: Students from California State University tion left over from the spring of 2005, Fullerton install CSU’s first entrance sign in 1976. pulling, re-plumbing, and the construc- bottom: Archaeology students from University of Ne- when record-setting rainfall led to a Mojave’s largest fire this summer was tion of a laboratory and restroom/show- vada sift through material excavated from a cultural tremendous growth of plants, especially the Tuff Nut, which burned nearly 1,200 site at Desert Studies Center. er facility. fast-growing annuals. When these plants acres high in the Providence Mountains Gone are the days of intermittent power die, their dried stems and leaves create a near Tough Nut Spring. Ignited by light- As it celebrates its 30th year, the DSC from generators, lack of climate control carpet of fuel across the landscape that ning on July 20, the fire burned on steep has become a world-class desert field in the buildings, and the use of out- has the potential to carry fire for long slopes about two miles from the nearest station, with students and researchers door showers and porta-potties. Today, distances. road access. coming from all over North America, guests are treated to cooled or heated and even Europe, giving students the rooms, flush toilets and hot showers, Due to the extreme fire potential, Fire The Valley View fire was ignited by opportunity for learning beyond the catered meals, 24-hour electricity from Management Officer Chuck Heard lightning on July 7th, and burned about classroom, and researchers a support the Center’s solar power plant, mod- brought in additional fire fighters to 70 acres on Cima Dome. “We really ap- facility while working in remote areas. ern teaching and lab facilities, a library support the two Mojave engine crews preciate the hard work of our fire crews, The DSC staff welcomes the public for and even wireless internet access via stationed at Hole-in-the-Wall. Engines especially on the Valley View Fire,” day visits, or to take numerous classes satellite. For more information on the from the Bureau of Land Management said Superintendent Dennis Schramm. on weekends through university ex- Desert Studies Center, or to register in Las Cruces, New Mexico, Santa “They protected the unique Joshua tree tended education courses. for a class, visit http://biology.fullerton. Monica National Recreation Area, and forest on Cima Dome from what could San Luis National Wildlife Refuge in the potentially have been a devastating fire.” Zzyzx buildings date from Doc Springer era Park or Preserve? Hunting in Mojave By Debra Hughson, Science Advisor It’s a preserve, not a park…Hello! So what’s the difference? What’s in a name? Simply put, you can hunt in a National Preserve but not in a National Park. When you see names like Big Cypress National Preserve or Big Thicket Na- tional Preserve, think “hunting season.”

Mojave National Preserve has hunting seasons for quail, chukar, doves, cottontail, badger, gray fox, bobcat, mule deer, and bighorn sheep. Seasons for jackrabbits and coyotes are all year. If you’re lucky you might draw one of four tags for bighorn sheep and be guided on a big game hunt in the rugged Old Dad and Kelso Mountains. Rob Fulton Rob Four point buck photographed by motion-sensor camera at a Mojave watering hole. Once used as guest rooms at Zzyxx Mineral Springs & Resort, Doc Springer’s stucco buildings and palm Five hundred mule deer tags are sold trees still grace the Boulevard of Dreams, now a part of the CSU Desert Studies Center. each year on a first-come-first-served By Anne Maasberg, Park Ranger basis for Zone D-17, which includes So what’s the attraction for deer hunt- ing in the desert? Besides the unique Curtis “Doc” Springer was known throughout the Mojave Desert as the builder and proprietor Mojave National Preserve. Mojave is of the Zzyzx Mineral Springs & Resort. In 1944, on a visit to Soda Dry Lake, he felt an immedi- by far the best mule deer hunting area experience of desert solitude and the ate affinity to Zzyzx. Recruiting unemployed men and using surplus materials from World War in Zone D-17: very few mule deer are beautiful wide-open spaces, the bucks II, Springer made his vision a reality. shot in Zone D-17 outside its boundar- are bigger. Less than 1% of the bucks ies. But then very few mule deer are taken in Zone A had more than 4 antler Born in 1896, the West Virginia native saw himself as a physician, despite never attending shot in Zone D-17 at all, as compared to points on each side while over 4% taken medical school. Springer declared that he had received many an honorary medical degree as other areas of the state. Only 47 mule in Zone D-17 were from this point class. well as a Ph.D. A self-proclaimed Methodist minister and health food salesman, Springer was deer were taken in 2005 from Zone Only in the X-zones, along the state’s deeply religious. D-17 (46 of which came from within the eastern border from Inyo County north, Preserve), as compared with 3,929 from will you have a better chance of bagging Starting in 1928, Springer combined his two vocations in creating his own radio show. Zone A in central California west of I-5. a record-sized buck. Throughout the next couple of decades, he sermonized over the airwaves that a healthy lifestyle was the path to spiritual well-being. According to the preacher, the best way a radio So plan your trip well in advance. Obey all listener could improve their physical and spiritual health was to order Springer’s “Antediluvian Hunters are also more successful in Zone Herb Tea”, “Hollywood Pep Cocktail” or one of the other products “Doc” Springer concocted A (26.9% success), although hunters had laws and regulations, “Leave No Trace,” and advertised. Although Curtis Springer left Zzyzx in 1974, his colorful history survives. more success in Zone D-17 (14% success) respect Wilderness Areas, practice good than in any of the other desert zones. sportsmanship, and happy hunting.

4 Mojave National Preserve Exploring Mojave

Kelbaker Road Clark Mountain “At Kelso, we took on supplies and found No signs or services. Check detailed maps or ask that Baker lay just across another small a ranger for access information. 4x4 vehicles range. There was no road or trail, but once recommended. we gained the summit, Baker could be seen in the white alkali sink below. Thirty-six The only section of the park north of I-15 is also miles away, just twelve merciless hours of its highest point at 7,929 feet. A relict white fir walking; and on Armistice Day 1936 we grove near the top is one of only three in the stumbled wearily into Baker.” Mojave Desert. Rock climbing on existing routes –Edna Calkins Price, Burro Bill and Me is permitted.

Today, Kelso and Baker are connected by Kel- baker Road, a paved highway that extends Nipton, Ivanpah, & Lanfair south of Kelso to I-40. The 57 mile drive from I-15 at Baker to I-40 east of Ludlow winds past Roads cinder cones, lava flows, the Kelso Depot and Enticing to children of all ages, granite rock piles abound across Mojave National Preserve. Hotel Nipton – 11 miles east of I-15 on Nipton the Kelso Dunes. Road. Hotel and store are privately operated; Zzyzx Cedar Canyon & call 760 856-2335 for information. Cinder Cones & Lava Flows – 14 miles south of Baker. No signs or services. Zzyzx/Soda Springs – 6 miles west of Baker on Black Canyon Roads Built in 1910, this charming hotel on the park I-15, then 4 miles south on Zzyzx Road (gravel). Rock Springs – 5.2 miles east of Black Canyon boundary reflects the railroad, ranching, and Kelbaker Road cuts through an area of thick lava Vault toilets, non-potable water, picnicking, Road on Cedar Canyon Road, then 0.25 mile mining history of the small community at Nip- flows intermixed with more than 30 volcanic nature walk. south on an unmarked dirt road. 4x4 vehicle ton. cinder cones covering an area of 25,600 acres, recommended, or walk in from Cedar Canyon creating an eerie red-black moonscape. These Historically known as Soda Springs and later Road. Roadside exhibits. Caruthers Canyon – 5.5 miles west of Ivanpah cones and lava flows are thought to range in renamed Zzyzx (pronounced Zye-Zix), this oasis Road on New York Mountains Road, then 2.7 age from 10,000 to 7 million years. is home to the California State University Des- The spring, nestled in a rocky alcove, was a well- miles north on an unsigned road. Primitive camp ert Studies Center. Buildings and pond were known waterhole for early travelers. Camp Rock area, hiking; no signs or services. 4x4 vehicle In 1973, the area was designated as Cinder developed in the 1940s by Curtis Springer, who Springs, a military “redoubt” established in 1866 to recommended. Cones National Natural Landmark because of its operated a health resort at the site. Zzyzx is protect travelers and the mail, was one of the most scenic beauty and exceptional geological value. open to the public–stroll around Lake Tuendae isolated and comfortless army posts in the West. Caruthers Canyon is located in the rugged New and along the shore of Soda Dry Lake. If classes York Mountains which rise above 7,500 feet. Aiken Mine Road (19.5 miles south of Baker) of- are in session, be courteous and do not disturb Mid Hills – 2 miles west of Black Canyon Road Chaparral plants grow here in a botanical “is- fers an interesting side trip through the heart of participants. on the north end of Wild Horse Canyon Road. land” left over from wetter times. the area. High clearance and/or 4x4 vehicles Campground, water, vault toilets, trailhead. Not recommended. Cima Road recommended for RVs. Lanfair Valley – Located south of the New York on Cima Road. Mountains along Ivanpah and Lanfair Roads. No Kelso Depot – 34 miles south of Baker. Infor- The effects of a fire which swept through here signs or services. Respect the rights of private mation Center, exhibits, restrooms, water, picnic A near-perfectly symmetrical dome rises 1,500 in June, 2005, are still evident. The fire burned property owners. tables. Hours listed on page 2. feet above the surrounding desert. Although the through pinyon pine, juniper, and sagebrush. top of the dome is located west of Cima Road This high valley shelters an impressive Joshua Built in 1924, the Kelso Depot served as train near the Teutonia Peak Trailhead, this unusual Hole-in-the-Wall – Just north of the junction of tree forest and was an early ranching and station, restaurant, and employee housing on geologic feature is best seen from a distance: try Black Canyon and the south end of Wild Horse homesteading center. From 1893 until 1923, the Los Angeles and Salt Lake route of the Union the view looking northwest from 2.5 miles east Canyon Roads. Information Center (hours listed the Nevada Southern Railway ran up the valley Pacific Railroad. The building is now the park’s of Kelso Cima Road on Cedar Canyon Road. on page 2), campgrounds__, trailhead, rest- from Goffs, providing services to homesteaders principal information center and museum. One of the world’s largest and most dense rooms, water, telephone. and ranchers in the valley and the miners in the Extensive exhibits describe desert ecosystems, Joshua tree forests grows here. mountains beyond. Little evidence remains of places, people, and history. Historically furnished Rhyolite cliffs riddled with holes and hollows are homesteads that once dotted the valley. rooms provide a glimpse into Kelso’s past. Rang- the backdrop for Hole-in-the-Wall. ers show a 12 minute orientation film in the Piute Springs theater. 6.1 miles west of U.S. 95 on the unmarked Mo- jave Road, then 3.1 miles west on an extremely Kelso Dunes – 43 miles south of Baker, then 3 rough unmarked dirt road. Trail; no signs or miles west on a graded dirt road. The dunes are services. 4x4 vehicle recommended. closed to vehicles, but are open to foot traffic. Mojave Road 4 x 4 Route Trailhead, vault toilets, no water.

Kelso Dunes were created by winds carrying sand grains from the dried Soda Lake and Mo- jave River Sink located to the northwest. In the path of these winds are the Providence and Granite Mountains, barriers that trapped the blowing sand. The entire dune system was cre- ated over a 25,000 year time period. The dunes are about 700 feet high and cover a 45 square mile area. Most of the sand grains are made of light-colored quartz and feldspar, which give the dunes an overall golden appearance. View from Marl Mountains along the Mojave Road.

The Kelso Dunes are “booming dunes.” They “The country, as a whole, seemed a vast volcanic desert–of mountains, canyons, and me- produce a low rumbling sound when sand sas–and what it was ever made for, except to excite wonder and astonishment, is a mys- grains slide down the steep slopes. Sand must tery to the passing traveler....Water was found only at distances of ten and twenty miles have the right moisture content to “boom.“ Try apart...” running downhill to initiate the booming sound. –J.F. Rusling describes his 1866 trip on the Mojave Road in Across America.

Granite Mountains – 50 miles south of Baker Used by Indians to transport goods from the southwest to trade with the Chumash and other Wagon ruts from the historic Mojave Road are visible on Kelbaker Road. coastal tribes, this route later served the cause of westward expansion. Military forts were near Piute Springs. established along the route to protect key water sources and provide assistance for travelers. An imposing jumble of granite marks the south Today it is a popular four-wheel drive road. A narrow ribbon of willows, cottonwoods, and entrance to the Preserve on Kelbaker Road. rushes thrive along a half-mile section of Piute Portions of the Granite Mountains lie within the The Mojave Road is an east-west route that enters the park near Piute Spring on the east side Creek. Fort Piute, one of a string of military out- University of California’s Desert Research Center; and on Soda Dry Lake near Zzyzx on the west. Some sections are rough and sandy; 4 x 4 rec- posts built along the Mojave Road, was located respect the fencing that marks the boundary. ommended. Roads can become slick, muddy, and impassable after rains. Be sure to inquire at this water source. about road conditions, especially if you plan to cross Soda Dry Lake. Cima Dome & Joshua Tree Forest– Along The recently stabilized ruins of Fort Piute are vis- Cima Road between I-15 and Cima. Teutonia The Mojave Road Guide by Dennis Casebier provides in-depth history and mile-by-mile descrip- ible. Please respect these ruins. Don’t climb on Peak Trailhead, exhibits, 12 miles south of I-15 tions of the road. It is available for purchase at park information centers. the foundations; don’t remove rocks or anything else from the area.

Mojave National Preserve 5 Camping

Campgrounds Roadside Camping Two family campgrounds have vault toilets, trashcans, and Roadside car camping is permitted in areas that have been potable water. There are no hookups, but there is a dump Nearby Camping Areas traditionally used for this purpose. Camping tramples vegeta- station at Hole-in-the-Wall. Each campsite has a picnic table tion; by picking sites that have already been used for camping, Providence Mountains State Recreation and a fire ring. No reservations; $12 per site per night, $6 for you help protect the desert from further damage. Not all sites Area (Mitchell Caverns), 16 miles north of can accomodate multiple vehicles; please don’t enlarge sites. Golden Age/Golden Access Passport holders. The group I-40 on Essex Road, has six campsites with campground does accept reservations–see below. tables and fire rings available on a first- Do not camp along paved roads or in day-use areas, and stay

come basis for $12 per night. at least 200 yards from all water sources. Hole-in-the-Wall Campground Located at 4,400 feet in elevation and surrounded by sculp- Afton Canyon, 25 miles west of Baker tured volcanic rock walls; there are 35 campsites for RVs and on I-15, has a BLM campground with tents, and two walk-in tent sites. tables and fire rings for $6 per night.

Mid Hills Campground Commerical camping is available at Nip- A fire swept through here in June, 2005, burning over much ton and Needles, California. of the area. Unburned campsites are surrounded by pinyon pine and juniper trees. At 5,600 feet in elevation, Mid Hills is much cooler than the desert floor below. The access road is not paved and is not recommended for motorhomes Campfires are allowed in existing fire rings only; or bring a fire pan and pack out or trailers; 26 campsites, about 1/3 in unburned areas. your ashes.

Black Canyon Equestrian & Group Campground Selected Roadside Camping Areas Located across the road from Hole-in-the-Wall Informa- tion Center, this campground has vault toilets, water, a picnic Near Kelbaker Road: shelter with tables, fire ring, and corrals. Fee is $25 per night; call 760-928-2572 for reservations. Rainy Day Mine Site 15.2 miles south of Baker on Kelbaker Road, then 0.3 miles northeast on the road to the Rainy Day Mine. 4x4 vehicle recommended; no RVs.

Granite Pass 6.1 miles north of I-40 on Kelbaker Road, just north of Granite Pass, then west on one of several access roads. Campsites are located just north of the granite spires. High clearance vehicle recom- mended; no RVs.

Kelso Dunes Mine 4 miles west of Kelbaker Road on Kelso Dunes Road, an unpaved above: Mojave yucca and cholla cactus grow near campsites at Hole-in-the-Wall. road. Many campsites are available 1 mile beyond the marked trail- right: Wildfire in spring, 2005, burned pinyon and juniper at Mid Hills Campground. head near a clump of trees. Roadside camping is not allowed at the Kelso Dunes parking area or anywhere else along the Kelso Dunes ...... Road, except at this site.

Guidelines for Explorers Near Cima Road:

Private Property Firearms Sunrise Rock Private property inholdings are found throughout the Pre- Target-shooting or “plinking” is not allowed within Mojave 12 miles south of I-15 on the east side of Cima Road. Trailhead for National Preserve. serve. Please respect the rights of our neighbors. It is your Teutonia Peak Trail is nearby on the opposite side of Cima Road. responsibility to receive permission before hunting, hiking, or entering private property. Possession or use of firearms is prohibited, except during lawful hunting activities. A valid hunting license and appropri- Near Black Canyon Road: Cattle and Fences ate tags are required. Do not shoot within 150 yards of any Black Canyon Road development (campgrounds, visitor centers, residences, etc.). Most grazing within Mojave National Preserve occurs on 5.2 miles south of Hole-in-the-Wall Information Center on the east Please remove all spent shells. public land. This land is open to you to explore, but please side of Black Canyon Road, near rock piles. don’t disturb cattle, fences, or water tanks. Leave gates as you find them. Firearms must be unloaded and cased within campgrounds Near Ivanpah and Cedar Canyon Roads: and vehicles at all times. Pets Caruthers Canyon Possession and use of fireworks or model rockets is not al- Pets must be confined to a leash no longer than six feet at 5.5 miles west of Ivanpah Road on New York Mountains Road, then 1.5 lowed. all times, with the exception of dogs used while hunting. to 2.7 miles north to campsites. 4x4 vehicle recommended; no RVs. Dogs used for hunting must be under the owner’s control at all times. Do not leave pets unattended inside or outside of Safety vehicles. Let someone know your trip route, destination, and return date, vehicle make and license plate. Cell phone coverage is Backcountry Camping Guidelines Bicycles sporadic. Including Roadside Camping, Backpacking and Horse Camping Bicycles are allowed on dirt and paved roads, but are not Take a minimum of one gallon of water per person per day • There is no registration system, so be sure allowed on hiking trails unless they are former roads. Bicycles (two gallons if you are hiking), and drink it freely. Carry extra to let someone know where you are going are not allowed in Wilderness areas or for cross-country drinking water for emergencies. and when you plan to return. travel.

Carry plenty of food, sunscreen, proper clothing, and a first • Backcountry camping is limited to a 14 day Collecting and Vandalism aid kit with you at all times. Hikers should wear a hat and stay. Disturbing, defacing, or collecting plants, animals, rocks, his- sturdy shoes and carry a good map, sunscreen, plenty of • There are few trails; take a good map and toric or archaeological objects is prohibited. These are part of water, extra clothing and a flashlight for after sunset. become familiar with the area you are hiking our national heritage, and should be left as you found them through. for all to enjoy. Metal detectors are not allowed. Familiarize yourself with the area and learn about desert travel and survival before you begin your exploration. Carry a • In the summer, do not set up in a dry wash Firewood & Campfires good map and know how to use it. as flash floods can develop quickly in the Wood is scarce in the desert. Cutting or collecting any wood, desert. including downed wood, is prohibited. All firewood, includ- Wilderness ing kindling, must be brought in. Nearly 50% of Preserve lands have been designated by Con- • Carry plastic bags and pack out all of your gress as Wilderness. These special places offer the chance to trash. Campfires are allowed in fire rings in campgrounds and other escape the sights and sounds of civilization. Exploration on • Bury human waste in “cat” holes six inches established sites. To minimize your impact even more, use foot or horseback is encouraged; cars and other mechanized deep. Don’t bury your toilet paper; put it in a a firepan and pack out the ashes. Please do not leave fires vehicles are not allowed. Please watch for and respect Wilder- plastic bag and pack it out. smoldering or unattended. ness boundary signs.

6 Mojave National Preserve Hiking

Although there are few established hiking trails, abandoned dirt roads, washes, and ridge lines offer an abundance of cross-country hiking opportunities. Numbers on map show general locations of trails listed below.

All trails and routes listed here are shown on the National Geographic Topographic Map of Mojave National Preserve, available at park information centers.

State park rangers conduct regularly scheduled tours of Mitchell Caverns.

Mitchell Caverns: A State Park within Developed Trails Recommended Routes 1) Lake Tuendae Nature Trail – 0.25 miles Warning: these routes are not established 10) Castle Peaks Corridor - Hike is 4 miles one Mojave National Preserve trails. Check a detailed map or consult a round trip. Trailhead at Zzyzx parking area, 4 way. No marked trailhead. Isolated area; requires STALACTITES, STALAGMITES, HELICTITES, park ranger for route information. Maps miles south of I-15 on Zzyzx Road. 15 miles of rough dirt road driving. Hike begins shields, and draperies are but a few of and guidebooks are available at park infor- 4.9 miles east of Ivanpah Road on signed Hart the formations inside Mitchell Cav- Stroll around Lake Tuendae and learn about its mation centers. Mine Road; left at fork, then 0.9 miles, left at erns at Providence Mountains State importance to the natural and cultural history fork, then 3.4 miles, crossing an earthen berm; Recreation Area. Located south of of the area. 6) Kelso Dunes – Hike is 3 miles roundtrip. left at fork, then 1 mile more to where road Trailhead is 3 miles west of Kelbaker Road on ends. 4x4 vehicle recommended. Hole-in-the-Wall in Mojave National 2) Teutonia Peak Trail – 4 miles round trip. the well graded but unpaved Kelso Dunes Road. Preserve, this 5,900 acre California Trailhead 12 miles south of I-15 or 6 miles Road is rough with “washboard” in places. Walk up the closed road to the ridgetop and State Park offers cave tours, camping, north of Cima on Cima Road. beyond into a small canyon. Excellent views and hiking in the spectacular Provi- Early morning and late afternoon climbers will of Castle Peak spires. The hiking route is not dence Mountains. Explore the dense Joshua tree forest on the way appreciate both the rose-colored glow of the marked. dunes and cooler temperatures. The hike may to a rocky outcropping on Cima Dome. Tours take several hours as you slog through the sand, 11) Piute Creek – Hike is 6.5 miles round trip. Guided tours of Mitchell Caverns re- then slide down the slopes. 3) Hole-in-the-Wall Nature Trail – 0.5 mile No marked trailhead. Hike begins on a hill 9.5 quire a 1½ mile walk and last about 1½ round trip. Trailheads at Hole-in-the-Wall Infor- miles east of the junction of Lanfair Valley and 7) Quail Basin – Hike is 6.5 round trip. No hours. Tour size is limited to 25 people. mation Center and Campground. Cedar Canyon Roads on a dirt utility road, then marked trailhead. Begin hike 12.5 miles north From Labor Day Weekend through 0.5 miles north. 4x4 vehicle recommended. of I-40 on Kelbaker Road, then 1 mile east of Memorial Day, weekday tours start at Learn to identify desert plants as you walk be- Kelbaker Road on an unmarked dirt road. Park tween the campground and information center. Hike 6.5 miles roundtrip through colorful Piute 1:30 p.m.; weekend and holiday tours at junction with closed dirt road heading south. Gorge and explore the ruins of Fort Piute, one start at 10:00 a.m., 1:30 p.m., and 3:00 4) Rings Trail – 0.5 mile round trip. Trailhead of several military redoubts built and manned in p.m. Summer tours, from Memorial Follow the closed dirt road to the south to a at picnic area 0.2 mile northwest of Hole-in-the- the 1860s to protect mail and travelers on the Day through Labor Day, are offered at road that loops around a small valley. After Wall Information Center. Trail connects to the Mojave Road. Return to your vehicle by follow- walking the loop, return on via the same route. 1:30 p.m. daily. The cost is $4 for adults, Mid-Hills to Hole-in-the-Wall Trail. ing a now-unused trace of the Mojave Road. 4X4 vehicle recommended. and $2 for children ages 16 to six. No A perennial stream near Fort Piute, rare in the charge for children five and under. Mojave, supports riparian plants and animals. The route leads past jumble rocks into a small Reservations can be made by calling at You will see stream-side plants recovering after valley of Mojave Yucca and juniper surrounded least three weeks in advance. Groups a fire swept through in August, 2004. by granite outcroopings. of ten or more are by reservation only. Providence Mountains Reservations are optional for groups 8) Keystone Canyon – Hike is 3 miles one smaller than ten. The temperature way. No marked trailhead. Route begins 18 State Recreation Area inside the cave is a comfortable 65°F, miles south of Nipton Road on Ivanpah Road, Trails so dress for the outside weather. Wear then travel 2.5 miles west on an unmarked dirt All trails begin near Mitchell Caverns headquar- sturdy shoes. road, bearing right at two forks. Bear left at 2.5 ters, 6 miles west of Black Canyon Road on miles, then travel a short distance downhill to a Essex Road. Camping and hiking parking area. 4X4 vehicle recommended. Nina Mora Trail – 0.5 miles round trip. Path At 4,300 feet in elevation, the camp- Hike the deteriorating closed road into Keystone begins at east end of campground, travels over ground offers superb views of the sur- Canyon up to near the top of the New York a ridge dotted with cactus and yucca, and past rounding desert. Six campsites with Mountains. Continue cross-country to the top of the grave of Nina Mora, a Mexican silver miner’s tables and fire rings are available on a the ridge for views to the west. daugther who died near here, and on to a first come, first served basis for $12 per Descend through Banshee Canyon with the help viewpoint. night. Water and flush toilets are pro- of metal rings mounted in the rock, and discover 9) Caruthers Canyon – Hike is 3 miles one way. vided. The Mary Beale Nature Trail, the holes of Hole-in-the-Wall. No marked trailhead. Route begins at primitive Crystal Spring Trail – 2 miles round trip. Steep near the Visitor Center, features desert campsites in Caruthers Canyon, 5.5 miles west trail passes through Crystal Canyon, a limestone plants and animals along a moderate 5) Mid Hills to Hole-in-the-Wall Trail – 8 of Ivanpah Road on New York Mountains Road, and rhyolite rock gorge with castle-like forma- walk; a trail guide is available. There are miles one way. Trailheads at entrance to Mid then 2.7 miles north on unsigned road. 4x4 tions. Cross slopes of pinyon and juniper mixed two other short trails. Cross-country Hills Campground and about 1 mile west of vehicle recommended. with barrel and prickly pear cactus, with excel- hikers can reach the peaks of the Provi- Black Canyon Road on the south end of Wild lent views of Providence Mountain Peaks nearby Horse Canyon Road. Hike through a rocky basin to an abandoned and the Clipper Valley below. dence Mountains. Groups planning to gold mining area. Do not enter mine shafts or hike cross-country require a free permit Hike through a maze of washes decorated with climb on abandoned structures; they are un- Mary Beal Nature Study Trail – 0.5 mile round from the Visitor Center. barrel and cholla cacti, then through the Hack- stable and extremely dangerous. trip. Booklet keyed to trail offers an introduction berry Fire burned area. Watch carefully for trail to high desert flora. The trail honors Mary Beale, For reservations and additional infor- route markers. Total elevation gain is 1,200 feet. an early desert botanist. mation, call 760-928-2586.

Mojave Moments Mojave National Preserve 7 Mojave National Preserve

Mileages