Mojave National Preserve

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National Park Service Park News & Guide U.S. Department of the Interior

Issue 25/2015-2016 Mojave National Preserve

Black Canyon campground with a sky added from an astrophoto COURTESY NASA/JET COURTESY NASA/JET PROPULSION LABORATORY--CALTECH A Head Start for Endangered Tortoises? By Phillip Gomez

An unpretentious little building surrounded by a security fence just off Ivanpah Road near the northeast entrance to Mojave National Preserve has an ambi- tious purpose: to improve the chances of baby desert tortoises to survive to maturity and to produce vital offspring.

The cryptic lives of tortoises—spent predominantly in underground burrows— NPS/KNIGHTEN and the many years that it takes for them to reach sexual maturity and to reproduce Welcome to Mojave! have made it difficult for conservation biologists to conduct field studies. Welcome to Mojave National Preserve. We are glad you have made the decision So, the National Park Service, together to spend some of your time exploring with the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service, and discovering the treasures of the Chevron Corp., Molycorp Inc., and two Mojave Desert. universities have partnered to create a working facility to try to gain a better You have chosen a special time to visit understanding of tortoise behavior that us—one of the more than 400 sites affects their survival. The Ivanpah Desert within the National Park Service—because Research Facility is staffed by a small team NPS/GOMEZ we have begun celebrating 100 years of faculty and Ph.D. candidates from the Two yearling tortoise siblings explore their enclosure. The smaller one follows “big brother,” who became sick and was taken inside for the winter. of sharing America’s special places and Savannah River Ecology Laboratory of helping Americans to make meaningful the University of Georgia and from the connections with nature, history, and University of California, Davis. In the case of the tortoise, the goal is to a small percentage make it to adulthood,” culture. The National Park Service was gain time for the reptile’s shell to develop Hughson said. established in 1916 to oversee the For this long-term research project, and harden to make the young reptiles administration of these special places. juvenile tortoises are being “recruited” safe from predators. Adult tortoises with This, coupled with the late maturity of the over a 20-year period and nurtured in this hardened shells have few predators, but tortoise, which can take 18 to 20 years to As part of its centennial, the National Park facility until they are capable of joining the juveniles are extremely vulnerable for the reach breeding age, makes for long odds in Service is inviting a new generation to Ivanpah Valley’s population with a rea- first four or five years of life. the game of survival in the desert. discover the special places that belong to sonable chance for survival. The idea for us all. We are encouraging new audiences this experiment in wildlife management, “It’s all about the predation,” says Debra Once numerous in the Mojave, the desert and people not familiar with the National entitled Desert Tortoise Juvenile Survi- Hughson, the Preserve’s chief of science tortoise began experiencing loss of natural Park Service and public lands to find their vorship at Mojave National Preserve—or and resource stewardship. “The purpose habitat from a variety of sources by the park. Many people visit Mojave National Head Start to researchers—is similar to the of Head Start is to allow them to survive.” late 1980s: exurban sprawl, overgrazing Preserve the traditional way, in person. We principle underlying children’s nursery How many tortoises are there in the Pre- by livestock, poaching, invasive plants, also invite you to explore and discover the schooling: giving kids a head start in life. serve? “Nobody knows exactly, but only development of highways and dirt roads, Preserve through our social media sites, and expanding use of off-road recreational including our webpage and Facebook site vehicles. The degradation and fragmenta- and via Twitter. Over the next two years, tion of habitat create barriers for the slow- we will be increasing the content that we moving tortoise in its search for food and have on our social media sites in an effort water and also bring danger from motor- to reach out to new audiences and to ists and off-roaders. Eggs of the unborn bring more visitors to the Preserve. are sometimes trampled. Also, the lives of many are cut short by an upper-respiratory The national parks are America’s best disease, possibly introduced into the desert idea, and we want all Americans to help by sick pet tortoises that were turned loose us celebrate these special places. You can by their owners. help us do this. Share your experience with others by talking with your friends Tortoise numbers have diminished by as and neighbors about what you saw or much as 90 percent in some areas of the did while here and post it to social media Mojave, according to Hughson. using #FindYourPark or FindYourPark.com

In August 1989, the California Fish and Enjoy the peace of the desert environment, Game Commission listed the desert tor- find yourself, and FindYourPark. toise (Gopherus agassizii) as a threatened species under the U.S. Endangered Species Act of 1973. The U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service followed suit with federal protec- Todd J. Suess tion in 1991. Superintendent

The Preserve was created in 1994 under the California Desert Protection Act, fed- Essential Information…2 eral legislation that was intended to protect remaining California desert wild lands. Exploring Mojave...3 The act called for large-scale management of the Mojave bioregion west of the Colo- Camping…6 rado River in conjunction with Joshua Tree and Death Valley national parks, as well as Hiking…7 the Bureau of Land Management (BLM). Mojave National Preserve Map…8

NPS COLLECTION continued on page 5 National Park Service Desert Safety Tips U.S. Department of the Interior THE MAIN CAUSE OF DEATH IN MOJAVE your plans. drinks. Dampen clothing to lower body More people die in single-car accidents FLASH FLOODS temperature. Be alert for symptoms in due to speeding than by any other While driving, be alert for water running others. Mojave National Preserve means. Reduce your speed. in washes and across dips in the road. DANGEROUS ANIMALS Established in 1994, Mojave National When hiking and camping, avoid can- Never place your hands or feet where DO NOT DEPEND ON A GPS NAVIGATION Preserve encompasses 1.6 million acres yons and washes during rain storms, and you cannot see first. Rattlesnakes, scor- ranging in elevation from 800’ near SYSTEM be prepared to move to higher ground. pions, or black widow spiders might be Baker to 7,929’ at Clark Mountain. GPS maps of remote areas, including sheltered there. Although most of the park lies in the Mojave National Preserve, are notori- DRESS PROPERLY FOR HIKING Mojave Desert, the southeast section ously unreliable. Carry a folding map. Wear loose-fitting clothing and sturdy MINE HAZARDS grades into the Sonoran Desert, and shoes that protect your feet from rocks Never enter a mine. They are unmain- elements of the Great Basin Desert are CARRY AND DRINK PLENTY OF WATER and cactus. Use sunscreen and wear a tained and unstable, and you might en- found at higher elevations east of the Carry a minimum of a gallon per person hat. Carry a light jacket as temperatures counter pockets of bad air or poisonous Granite, Providence, and New York per day in your vehicle even if you are drop dramatically when the sun goes gas. Stay out, and stay alive! mountains. just passing through. You will need it in down. an emergency. Carry more if you plan IN CASE OF EMERGENCY Superintendent to be active. Fluid and electrolyte levels Todd J. Suess AVOID HIKING IN EXTREME HEAT Cell phones do not work in many areas. must be balanced, so have salty foods or Do not hike in the low elevations when Try moving uphill to get a signal. To call Chief Ranger “sports drinks” handy as well. temperatures are high; the mountains for help, dial 911 or the Federal Inter- John A. Piastuck are cooler in summer. agency Communications Center at 909- BACKCOUNTRY TRAVEL 383-5651. After calling, stay with your Newspaper Editor Hikers, backpackers, and those travel- WATCH FOR SIGNS OF TROUBLE ON HOT DAYS car until help comes. Norma Sosa ing on dirt roads need to be self-reliant If you feel dizzy or nauseated, or if you and well-prepared. Plan ahead, carry develop a headache, get out of the sun Mailing Address detailed maps, and let someone know immediately, and drink water or sports 2701 Barstow Road Barstow, CA 92311

Web and E-mail www.nps.gov/moja For e-mail, click “Contact Us”

Park Headquarters ph: 760-252-6100 fax: 760-252-6174

National Park Service employees care for America’s national parks and work with communities across the nation to help preserve local history and to create close-to-home recreational opportunities.

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Essential Information

Dates and Hours of Operation Pets The preserve is always open. Information centers (see below) maintain regular hours of operation. Although not allowed inside information centers, pets are welcome elsewhere. They must be leashed and never left unattended. Dogs used during hunting activities must be under the owner’s Fees and Reservations control at all times. Pet excrement must be collected and disposed of in garbage receptacles. There are no entrance fees. See page 6 for information about campground reservations and fees. Permits Information Centers Permits are required for all organized events, group events (more than 15 individuals or 7 vehicles), Three information centers provide orientation, information, and trip-planning advice. Park rangers and commercial activities such as filming. Fees apply. Proof of insurance and posting of a bond are on duty. Western National Parks Association (WNPA) bookstores offer books, maps, and more. might also be required. Call 760-252-6107 or visit www.nps.gov/moja for more information. Kelso Depot Visitor Center Located on Kelbaker Road, 34 miles southeast of Baker, CA. Open seven days per week from 9 a.m. Hunting and Firearms to 5 p.m. Closed on Christmas. Hunting is permitted in accordance with state regulations. All hunting activities require a license; Hole-in-the-Wall Information Center additional permits and tags might apply. Visit the California Department of Fish & Wildlife website Located near Hole-in-the-Wall Campground. at http://www.dfg.ca.gov/ for more information. Headquarters Information Center Located at 2701 Barstow Road, Barstow, Calif. Open Monday through Friday, 8 a.m.–4:00 p.m. Target shooting or “plinking” is prohibited. All firearms transported within the preserve must be un- loaded, cased, and broken down, except during lawful hunting activities. No shooting is permitted Food within 1/2 mile of developed areas, including campgrounds, information centers, Kelso Dunes, Fort Limited snacks are available in the Western National Parks Association stores at Kelso Depot Visitor Piute, Sweeney Granite Mountains Desert Research Center, and the Desert Studies Center at Zzyzx. Center and Hole-in-the-Wall Information Center, but there is no restaurant. Restaurants are located along I-15 at Barstow and Baker, Calif. and along I-40 at Ludlow, Fenner, and Needles, Calif. Collecting and Vandalism Disturbing, defacing, or collecting plants, animals, rocks, historic or archeological objects is prohib- Water ited. Leave these resources as you find them for everyone to enjoy. Metal detectors are not allowed. Drinking water is available only at Kelso Depot Visitor Center, Hole-in-the-Wall Information Center, Hole-in-the-Wall, Black Canyon and Mid-Hills campgrounds. Private Property Private inholdings are found throughout the preserve. Please respect the rights of our neighbors. Gasoline It is your responsibility to obtain permission before hunting, hiking, or entering private property. There are no gasoline stations within Mojave National Preserve. Gasoline can be purchased along I–40 at Needles, Fenner, and Ludlow, Calif., along I–15 at Baker, Calif., the Cima Road exit, and Cattle and Fences Primm, Nev., and along U.S. 95 at Searchlight and at the Nev.163 junction south of Cal-Nev-Ari, Nev. Most grazing within Mojave National Preserve occurs on public land. This land is open to you to explore, but please don’t disturb cattle, fences, or water tanks. Leave gates as you find them. Lodging Watch for cattle on roadways. There are no motels within Mojave National Preserve. Lodging may be available in Barstow, Nipton, Ludlow, Needles, Baker, and Twentynine Palms, Calif., and in Primm and Searchlight, Nev. Firewood & Campfires Wood is scarce in the desert. Cutting or collecting any wood, including downed wood, is prohib- Bicycles ited. All firewood, including kindling, must be brought in. Firewood might be available for purchase Bicycles are allowed in parking areas, on paved roads, and on existing, open dirt roads. Bicycles are at Baker, Fenner, Needles or Nipton, Calif. Campfires are allowed in campground fire rings and not allowed in Wilderness Areas or for cross-country travel. other established sites. To minimize your impact, use a firepan and pack out the ashes. Please do not leave fires smoldering or unattended.

2 Mojave National Preserve Exploring Mojave NPS/LINDA SLATER Scenic Cima Road connects I-15 with Cima, Calif., traversing the world’s largest concentration of Joshua trees.

Avenues to Adventure Dirt Road Driving NPS COLLECTION Mojave National Preserve is vast. At 1.6 million acres, it is the third-largest unit of the National Park System in the contiguous United States. While much of Mojave’s wild and historic splendor is avail- Prepare Your Vehicle able only to those who travel its trails and unmaintained roads, the primary roads of the preserve Ensure that your vehicle is in good condition: check tires, oil, and gas gauge. offer endless opportunities for exploration (see map on page 8). Kelbaker Road Cima Road For emergencies, carry tools, tire jack, towrope, extra water, and fluids for your vehicle. A 56-mile paved road stretching from I-15 at About 26 miles east of Baker, Calif., the paved Know the Rules of the Road Baker, Calif. in the north to I-40 east of Ludlow, Cima Road connects I-15 with Cima, Calif., 16 All vehicles operating within Mojave National Preserve must be street-legal in accordance Calif. in the south, Kelbaker Road winds past miles to the southeast. with California DMV requirements, including current registration and tags, lights and turn cinder cones, lava flows, Kelso Depot, Kelso signals, and valid insurance. California “Green Sticker” and “Red Sticker” programs are not Dunes, and the Granite Mountains. Cima Dome & Joshua Tree Woodland recognized within the preserve. Self-guiding trail, no water. Cinder Cones & Lava Flows The near-perfect symmetry of Cima Dome rises Off-pavement travel is allowed only on existing, open dirt roads. Do not travel cross-country No signs or services. 1,500 feet above the surrounding desert and or create new routes. This rule is strictly enforced; violators will receive citations. Driving About 14 miles southeast of Baker, Kelbaker is home to the world’s largest concentration of in washes is not permitted. Watch for and respect Wilderness Boundary signs; motorized Road traverses a 25,600-acre area of lava flows Joshua trees. The top of the dome is located vehicles and bicycles are not allowed in designated Wilderness Areas. and volcanic cinder cones thought to range west of Cima Road, this unusual geologic fea- in age from 10,000 to 7 million years old. ture is best seen from a distance. Try the view Check Road Conditions In 1973, the area was designated as Cinder looking northwest from Cedar Canyon Road, Road conditions vary widely. Dirt roads might be rough, sandy, or muddy, rendering them Cones National Natural Landmark due to its 2.5 miles east of Kelso Cima Road. impassable, and the unprepared motorist could be trapped many miles from help. Watch for scenic beauty and exceptional geological value. cattle, burros, and other wildlife on roadways. Aiken Mine Road (19 miles southeast of Baker, White Cross World War I Memorial Calif.) offers an interesting side trip through Located 12 miles south of I-15 on Cima Road, Not all roads are shown on all maps; traces and illegal shortcuts add to the confusion. Carry a the heart of the area and access to a lava this memorial is owned and operated by the good map, and ask a park ranger for current road conditions. tube. High clearance and four-wheel drive Veterans of Foreign Wars. recommended.

Kelso Depot Visitor Center Cedar Canyon & Black Information, exhibits, orientation film, art gal- Canyon Roads lery, bookstore, restrooms, water, picnic area. Mostly unpaved, the 20-mile Cedar Canyon Zzyzx Road Sand & Mud Driving Tips Six miles southwest of Baker on I-15, Zzyzx Open every day but Christmas. Located 34 Road connects Kelso Cima Road in the west Road leads 5 miles south into the preserve along miles southeast of Baker, Kelso Depot began with Ivanpah Road in the east, paralleling (and •Be sure to carry plenty of drinking water the western shore of Soda Dry Lake. operation in 1924 and served as train station, sometimes joining) the historic Mojave Road. and emergency supplies. restaurant, and employee housing on the Los Black Canyon Road (unpaved north of Hole-in- Zzyzx/Soda Springs Angeles and Salt Lake route of the Union Pa- the-Wall) connects Cedar Canyon Road with •Engage four-wheel drive before entering Self-guiding trail, wayside exhibits, pit toilets, cific Railroad. Now Mojave National Preserve’s Essex Road, 20 miles to the south. deep sand or mud. non-potable water, picnic area. principal information center and museum, the Historically known as Soda Springs and later Depot offers extensive exhibits that describe Rock House •Don’t gun the engine—this will spin the renamed Zzyzx (pronounced ZYE-zix), this oasis the cultural and natural history of the preserve. Loop trail, wayside exhibits, pit toilet, picnic table. tires, dig you in deeper, and could bury is home to the California State University Desert Historically furnished rooms offer a glimpse 5 miles east of Black Canyon Road on Cedar your vehicle to the frame. Smooth, easy Studies Center. The buildings and pond were into Kelso’s past. Canyon Road. The Rock House is emblematic power is better than too much power; developed in the 1940s by Curtis Springer, who of creative desert building styles. Nearby Rock use low gearing and just enough throttle operated a health resort at the site. Zzyzx is open Kelso Dunes Spring, located along the loop trail, was the site to maintain forward movement. to the public—stroll around Lake Tuendae and Self-guiding trail, pit toilets, no water. of a military outpost along the Mojave Road. About 42 miles southeast of Baker (8 miles along the shore of Soda Dry Lake. Please do not •If you detect a loss of traction, turn the disturb participants when classes are in session. south of Kelso Depot), then 3 miles west on Mid Hills steering wheel rapidly from side-to-side— a graded dirt road. Nearly 700 feet high and Campground, trailhead, pit toilets, water. this might help to generate traction. covering a 45-square-mile area, the Kelso Dunes Not recommended for RVs. Nipton, Ivanpah & Lanfair were created over the course of 25,000 years About 2 miles west of Black Canyon Road at •If your vehicle gets stuck, place solid by winds carrying sand grains from the dried the north end of Wild Horse Canyon Road, Mid Roads materials (such as floor mats) under the Eleven miles south of Primm, Nev., Nipton Road Soda Lake and Mojave River Sink located to Hills supports pinyon-juniper woodland habitat. tires to provide traction. begins at I-15 and passes through Nipton, Calif., the northwest. The Providence and Granite The effects of a fire that swept through the 11 miles east. Ivanpah Road (only the 10 north- mountains served as barriers that trapped the area in June 2005 are evident, although several •If you’re really stuck, it’s best to stay ernmost miles paved) heads southeast of Nipton blowing sand. The dunes produce a “booming” campsites in the popular campground still con- with your vehicle. A stationary, stranded Road, through the Ivanpah and Lanfair valleys, or “singing” sound when sand with the right tain shady stands of pinyon pine and juniper. vehicle is much easier to locate than a moisture content slides down the steep slopes. eventually connecting with the paved Lanfair person traveling on foot. Avoid strenuous Road and the Fenner Valley. Together stretching Try it for yourself—run down a dune slope (but Hole-in-the-Wall activity during the heat of the day; stay in 46 miles, Ivanpah and Lanfair roads connect the don’t trample vegetation!) to initiate the sound. Information center, bookstore, campgrounds, the shade of your vehicle. northern preserve boundary (bordering Nipton picnic area, trailhead, restroom, water, telephone. Road) with the southern near Goffs, Calif. Granite Mountains Just north of the junction of Black Canyon and

No signs or services. the south end of Wild Horse Canyon Roads, Hotel Nipton An imposing jumble of granite marks the south rhyolite cliffs riddled with holes and hollows are NPS exhibits; privately operated hotel, store, & Lanfair Valley entrance to the preserve, 50 miles southeast of the backdrop for Hole-in-the-Wall. Baker on Kelbaker Road. Portions of the Granite campground; for information call 760-856-2335 No signs or services. Mojave Desert Outpost, a Mountains lie within the University of Califor- or email at [email protected]. privately-owned campground, is located here. nia’s Desert Research Center; please respect the Piute Spring Built in 1910, this charming hotel reflects the For information call 951-780-3179. signs that mark the boundary. High clearance About 7.4 miles west of U.S. 95 on the un- railroad, ranching, and mining history of the South of the New York Mountains along Ivan- and four-wheel drive recommended. marked and unpaved Mojave Road, then 3.1 small community at Nipton. pah and Lanfair roads, this high valley shelters miles west on an extremely rough unmarked an impressive Joshua tree forest and was an Clark Mountain dirt road. High clearance and four-wheel Caruthers Canyon early ranching and homesteading center. From 1893 until 1923, the Nevada Southern Railway No signs or services. drive recommended. Primitive camping, hiking, no signs or services. ran up the valley from Goffs, providing services The only portion of Mojave National Preserve About 5.5 miles west of Ivanpah Road on New to homesteaders and ranchers in the valley and north of I-15, Clark Mountain is also its highest Fort Piute and Piute Spring York Mountains Road, then 2.7 miles north on to miners in the mountains beyond. While little point, at 7,929 feet. A relict white fir grove Trails, wayside exhibits, no services. an unsigned road, Caruthers Canyon is located evidence remains of homesteads that once near the top is one of only three in the Mojave Willows, cottonwoods, and rushes thrive along in the rugged New York Mountains. Surrounded dotted the valley, tracts of private property still Desert. Check detailed maps or ask a ranger for a half-mile section of Piute Creek. Fort Piute (still by mountains rising over 7,500 feet, a botani- exist. Please respect the rights of landowners. access information. High clearance and visible) was one in a string of military outposts cal “island” of chaparral plants remains from four-wheel drive recommended. built along the Mojave Road. Please don’t climb wetter times of the past. High clearance and on the foundations or remove anything. four-wheel drive recommended.

Mojave National Preserve 3 COURTESY NASA/JET PROPULSION LABORATORY--CALTECH NASA/JET PROPULSION LABORATORY--CALTECH COURTESY COURTESY JANE AND MORRIS JONES COURTESY MembersThis is a starof the chart Old Townof the Sidewalk summer Astronomers night sky setover up Mojave telescopes National in Black Preserve Canyon Groupfacing & southeast Equestrian fromCampground Black Canyon for an annual Equestrian Star Party. & Group Left to Campground.right: Jane and Morris Jones, Todd Kunioka, Jim Stears, and Gary Spiers. Look Up for a Wonder of Mojave’s Clear, Tranquil Summer Evenings By Phillip Gomez anyone can enjoy this park resource: inky ficial Light, describes the research on wild- with the Naked Eye.“ Focus your binocu- night skies full of stars—the Milky Way life and artificial night lighting, most plants lars and tens of thousands of stars spring On a still, clear night in Mojave National above and a natural soundscape below. and animals depend on natural patterns of into sudden visibility, the gentle radiance Preserve, there’s nothing so tranquil as The clean, sweet-smelling night air of the darkness. Light pollution threatens desert behind these newcomers indicating that going outside well after nightfall, lying in Mojave wilderness, as well as other areas biodiversity “by forcing sudden change on still more unresolved stars lurk behind a hammock, and looking up at the distant of the Preserve, becomes a haven for those habits and patterns that have evolved to them…More, still more, who knows how stars. seeking quiet, relaxing, or contemplative depend on light in the day and darkness at many billions more unresolved suns always settings. night.” While most of us are asleep indoors, lie farther in the distance.” From my favorite perch, they’re framed in “outside the night world is wide awake with the foreground by the tangled, shadowed Get a compass along with a good star chart matings, migrations, pollinations, and feed- Back on earth, Bogard sadly reports that limbs of two Joshua and find the constel- ing—in short, the basic happenings that eight out of every ten children born in the trees. A chorus of lation Sagittarius. It’s keep world biodiversity alive.” United States today will never know a night crickets provides the ‘...anyone can enjoy just above the south- dark enough that they can see the Milky background music this park resource: inky ern horizon and below Urban light pollution spilling over into Way. Because most of us live in increasingly in the surround- the band of stars in nearby rural areas can spoil sky watchers’ over-lighted cities, 80% of Americans will ing shrubs. Bats zip night skies full the Milky Way. This viewing of the stars, even in the Preserve. never understand the meaning of the well- around me chasing of stars...’ constellation looks like “The light from Las Vegas may not stay in known British nursery rhyme Twinkle, insects. An owl yips a tea kettle, its spout Vegas,” says Bogard. But ignoring the ur- Twinkle Little Star that was published in leisurely with long, steaming up the Sagit- ban glow to the north of the brightest city 1806, well before the advent of artificial silent intervals in the tree branches above tarius Star Cloud in the heart of the galaxy. in the world, sky watchers at Mojave can light. before gliding away in a low swoop. turn to its southern sky for a more fabulous Another easily seen and well-known con- entertainment: primitive darkness. The rhyme “How I wonder what you are” Stargazing has become increasingly popu- stellation in the southern sky is the large is lost on anyone who has never had the lar at remote southwestern parks such as constellation of Scorpio. The stinger tail The summer season is an excellent time of opportunity of seeing bright, shining stars Death Valley, Joshua Tree, and Great Basin, of this familiar desert figure curls around year for viewing the Milky Way Galaxy, the against the dark night sky. The rhyme sug- and at Organ Pipe Cactus National Monu- just to the right of Sagittarius, then heads irregular band of 200 billion stars stretch- gests mystery, a wonder we can only begin ment and the Preserve. Mojave hosts peri- north of the Milky Way’s star clouds. Sagit- ing across our night sky as a thin, hazy to understand by experiencing it ourselves. odic “star parties”, inviting visitors to gaze tarius includes the beguiling red-gold star cloud. For those with the patience to look at the night sky through telescopes. The Antares, one of the largest-known stars, and learn, these distant suns produce a Stars are natural resource wonders, best National Park Service encourages visitor 700 times the diameter of our sun. faraway radiance that more than rivals the appreciated in dark, arid clean-air land- activities like stargazing and active listen- lights to the north. scapes in Mojave and other remote nation- ing for wildlife sounds as fundamental Taking in the dark night skies and the natu- al parklands in the desert Southwest. resource values for the enjoyment of desert ral soundscapes of the desert’s biotic com- The light from the galactic core of the solitude. munities draws you into what one expert Milky Way “merges like melted gold to cre- calls “the basic happenings” of life. As Paul ate this glowing band,” says Bob Berman in On a moonless night and with a clear view Bogard, author of The End of Night: Search- Secrets of the Night Sky: The Most Amaz- of summer’s nighttime constellations, ing for Natural Darkness in an Age of Arti- ing Things in the Universe You Can See Remote Backcountry Habitat Harbors the Rugged Desert Bighorn Sheep

By Robert Mills summer months, Bighorns visit watering spots since 1971without any reports of disease. But horns began dying of pneumonia in great frequently during the summer and linger a in 1980, nose-to-nose contact was observed numbers. This has become all too common Those who have had the joy of witnessing a quarter of an hour to an hour, minimizing between Bighorns and domestic sheep that in the American West, and, unfortunately, the Desert Bighorn Sheep standing on a jagged their exposure to predators. were grazing on adjacent National Forest Ser- Bighorns of the Preserve were not spared. peak, silhouetted against a sun-lit blue sky, vice land. The Bighorn Sheep began dying of would be quick to agree that they have seen An estimated 600 Bighorn inhabit Mojave pneumonia two weeks later. All 43 died within In 2012, biologists discovered about 40 dead one of the most majestic animals to roam National Preserve. They live ten to 15 years in a short time. Bighorns in the Mojave within or near the Mojave National Preserve. the wild. The females (ewes) weigh 75 to 130 Preserve. All showed indications of having pounds, while the males (rams) weigh 140 to An experiment to establish a connection died from the suspect pneumonia. Upon Shy and inhabiting remote and rugged desert 220 pounds. At age two, ewes generally deliver between contact with domestic sheep and investigation, rangers found domestic sheep mountain terrain, they travel across valleys one lamb, rarely two, in late spring after a six- the Bighorn deaths was conducted. Scientists carcasses and domestic sheep pellets in areas from one mountain to the next, avoiding other month gestation. extracted the bacteria that caused the Bighorn of the park. creatures. It is a fortunate photographer who deaths from four healthy domestic sheep, captures these magnificent creatures on film, The Bighorn has few natural enemies. There tagged it with fluorescent protein, and then Not all Bighorn die-offs can be linked to con- as photo opportunities are fleeting. The Big- are reports of eagles killing a lamb or of multi- reintroduced it into the four sheep. tact with domestic animals. The 1995 die-off horn (Ovis Canadensis nelsoni) is surprisingly ple eagles taking down a sick adult. Every now was related to botulism. But investigation usu- fast and agile on the rugged terrain, so merely and then, a mountain lion manages to catch The Bighorns and domestic animals were ally finds evidence that domestic sheep were sighting one of these creatures is generally one, but the bighorn’s habitat in some of the penned 33 feet apart for one month, with the in the area before a die-off occurred. reserved for those willing to venture into this desert’s most difficult terrain generally shields Bighorns showing no symptoms of pneumo- difficult habitat. them from natural predation. nia. The animals then were allowed to have On the question of preventive measures, nose-to-nose contact for two months. Four inoculations work for only a short time, and While both males and females grow horns, it In the past few years, the Bighorn’s biggest Bighorn Sheep contracted the marked virus. capturing the animals in their rugged habitat is only the males that sport the big horns that threat has come, not from natural predators, The infected animals were then penned to- would be extremely difficult. The only effec- give the animals their name. A mature set of but from domesticated animals—mainly gether, and all four Bighorns died within nine tive course of action to protect the Bighorn is horns takes about seven years to grow and can sheep. There have been Bighorn sheep die-offs days. The lungs of all four Bighorns showed to ensure that there is absolutely no contact measure 30 inches from base to tip. dating back to the 1840s. Research based on signs of the pneumonia, and the tagged bacte- between them and domestic animals—espe- carefully controlled studies shows that grazing ria was isolated from all four animals. cially sheep and goats. In this harsh environment, the Bighorn sur- of domestic sheep in or near Bighorn habitat vive on ephemeral shrubs and catclaw. It sur- leads to transfers of diseases that prove fatal In ten experiments, all 23 Bighorn sheep To this end, signs have been posted at Preserve vives because of a complex digestive process for the Bighorn. involved died of respiratory disease following entrances barring transport or grazing of do- that extracts nutrients efficiently. contact with domestic sheep. mestic goats and sheep. It is hoped that with The most recent report was supplied after this precaution and the ongoing attention of The Bighorn has adapted to the limited desert an outbreak in a penned Bighorn population In August of 2011, following reports of do- wildlife biologists, the remaining Bighorns water supply by extracting moisture from at Lava Beds National Monument nearly 30 mestic sheep roaming Desert Bighorn habitat will survive to regenerate the population. green winter vegetation. During the drier years ago. The Bighorn had been penned there in the Nevada Snowstorm Mountains, Big-

4 M Mojaveojave National Preserve Protect the Desert Tortoise Park Roads: Don’t dump or litter. Garbage attracts ravens and other predators that feed on tortoise eggs and hatch- lings. A 200-Year Journey

Don’t release pet tortoises into the wild. They may carry diseases that will spread to wild tortoises. Contact a ranger to learn about tortoise adoption programs.

Check beneath your vehicle before driving away. Tortoises sometimes rest in the shade of a car.

Do not take a tortoise. It is illegal to remove tortoises from the wild.

If you see a tortoise, stay back. Approaching too closely may cause a tortoise to spray urine in self-defense–a poten-

tially fatal loss of fluid. NPS COLLECTION Mojave’s roads, descendants of trails worn on the desert floor by ancient peoples, are modern pathways Reduce driving speeds and watch for tortoises on desert roadways. through wild, scenic landscapes.

By David Moore, Chief of Maintenance Pavement does not last forever without some care and attention. Many of the Mojave NPres On Monday, September 9, 2013, the care and roads have become dried out and prone to A Head Start for Endangered Tortoises? maintenance of the 165 miles of paved roads cracking, leading to the creation of potholes. and 70 miles of dirt roads within Mojave Na- Some sections of our roads have deteriorated continued from page 1 tional Preserve (Mojave NPres) became the faster than others due to the impact of rain and Also in 1994, the U.S. Fish and Wildlife that was polluted with toxic waste. responsibility of the National Park Service freezing temperatures in the winter. Service completed its Desert Tortoise following a Federal Court decision removing Recovery Plan, another milestone in By the late 1990s, Chevron Corp. had them from the jurisdiction of San Bernardino The care of our paved and dirt roads has been a large-scale ecosystem planning. The plan acquired UNOCAL, Molycorp’s owner County. This created a big change in mainte- top priority and a challenge for Mojave NPres. nance operations which had formerly been required the National Park Service and since 1977, and with that purchase came Since 2013, we have hired temporary road responsible for only a few miles of dirt road. crews, gained assistance from Death Valley and BLM to work together in planning for the the liabilities for Molycorp’s spill. Chevron Joshua Tree National Parks road crews, and recovery of the threatened species. and its subsidiary, Chevron Environmental Many of today’s major paved roads in Mojave purchased some road maintenance equipment Management Co., now had to deal with the NPres had not been improved until the 1970s and materials to help us with this new work In the summer of 1996, Molycorp Inc. (not legacy of the spill. and ’80s. This was done to increase the safety load. the company that for passenger vehicles to drive through Mojave currently goes by Ordinarily, under NPres. But the need for good travel routes in At Mojave NPres, a lot can be accomplished that name), oper- the Endangered the desert dates well before these fairly recent with everyone working together. On April 8, ated an open-pit Species Act, times. 2015, a road rescue team was formed with mine and chem- compensation volunteers from our visitor protection, admin- ical-processing paid to a federal Early Europeans, like Father Francisco Garcés, istration, fire crew, maintenance, interpretive, a Spanish Franciscan priest living at Mission and resource management staffs. Our Super- facility between agency for dam- San Xavier, near present-day Tucson, Arizona, intendent, Todd Suess, also joined in the work. Clark Mountain ages to habitat recorded the existence of a route across the The rescue team cleaned roadsides, hauled and Interstate 15 would be settled Mojave Desert in the 1770s. His group was asphalt, controlled traffic, and shoveled the near the Preserve. with the purchase guided several times by members of the Mo- heavy black filling material into potholes. The company and donation jave Tribe of the Colorado River through the incurred fed- of selected land Mojave Desert to the California Central Valley Smiles and brightly colored vests used by eral, state, and parcels. Instead, and The San Gabriel Mission. The Mojave and highway crews were the order of the day as we county liabilities an idea arose for other tribes had traded pottery, seashells, and all worked together on that beautiful spring after a wastewa- construction of a other goods with coastal ter pipeline ruptured at the site, spilling seven-acre research facility in the Pre- tribes for centuries. In 350,000 gallons ozf water contaminated serve to help the population recover using later years, those who traded and explored with hazardous heavy metals and low-level predator-proof holding pens for young in the Mojave Desert radioactive waste. tortoise. on these same routes found it to be a long The spill represented up to 100 times “It’s basically just what we wanted for walk between known acceptable levels, according to Eric C. Nys- compensation,” says Hughson. “Chevron springs. Commerce trom in his administrative history of the also provided $500,000 for research and and trade continued early years of the Preserve. The cleanup operating expenses.” The National Park to impact the desert cost the mining company $3.6 million. Trust handles the funds transfer for the as miners in the 1800s It also diverted Preserve staff from their National Park Service. searched for and found regular duties to install four miles of fenc- gold and silver. They established dirt roads ing to keep tortoise away from the ground The facility is used to conduct experiments between their mines to support the recovery work, including a and nearby towns to study that would help identify habitat pref- get their ore to markets. Mojave Temperatures: erences. In these experiments, researchers attach tiny radio transmitters to tortoises Average High / Low In April 1912, the NPS/PIASTUCK that are then released and tracked. National Old Trails Mojave fire crew, rangers, office workers, managers, and other staff Granite Zzyzx Road Association was volunteer to fill potholes on Morning Star Mine Road. Mountain Previous studies discovered their attrac- formed to create a trans- Elevation Elevation tion to the shoulders of Preserve roadways, continental trail (road) 4,200 feet 930 feet where runoff after rains provides drinking system that linked Baltimore and Los Angeles. morning to improve the roads for visitors. I am water and lusher vegetation. Unfortunately, The Automobile Club of Southern California typically tied to a desk and a computer during January 50°F / 36°F 61°F / 34°F began posting signs to define a proposed route my work day, so being outside and getting that this can lead to deadly impacts with pass- that came through Southern California, and huge sense of instant accomplishment of filling ing automobiles. February 54°F / 38°F 69°F / 40°F by 1917 much of the route was in place. This a pothole was welcome. route, a hardened dirt road, was very difficult The new research will arm researchers to drive. This National Trails Highway would There is hope that special measures like this March 59°F / 41°F 74°F / 46°F with additional information about tortoise later be known as Route 66. won’t be needed in our future. behavior that endangers their survival. April 68°F / 48°F 83°F / 53°F Researchers hope that the benefits of nur- It wasn’t until the late 1920s that this road By the end of June 2015, 40 miles of our paved turing and studying this new generation of was widened and oiled. Oiling roads quickly roads received a new chip seal top coat of a became the preferred method over watering to special asphalt emulsion covered by gravel. The May 75°F / 54°F 93°F / 61°F tortoise will have a significant impact. control dust as it also hardened the surface of road work included patching, thin-pavement “The idea is to augment the natural popu- dirt roads. overlays, and crack sealing. Crack sealing plac- June 85°F / 63°F 103°F / 70°F es specialized materials into or above cracks to lation in the wild,” Hughson says. “The Another early road treatment used in Cali- prevent the intrusion of water and other mate- baby tortoises are protected from preda- July 90°F / 67°F 109°F / 77°F fornia was invented in the 1820s by Scottish rials and reinforces the adjacent pavement. The tors in regulated pens, segregated by age.” engineer John Loudon McAdam. It was called roads treated included the northern three miles macadam. A layer of crushed stones was laid of Ivanpah Road, followed by Morning Star August 89°F / 66°F 107°F / 75°F Most have minimal interactions with the on the driving surface, mixed with existing Mine Road, Kelso Cima Road, and Zzyzx Road. researchers to maintain their fear of hu- soil, then coated with a type of asphalt/oil- September 83°F / 61°F 100°F / 68°F mans—also necessary for their survival. based binder and compressed to form a hard, In 2016, the majority of the remaining 110 solid surface. Many of the first paved roads in miles of paved roads in Mojave NPres that were Mojave NPres were made this way, not in the not treated this year will be resurfaced, subject October 73°F / 52°F 77°F / 55°F The project is intended to continue indefi- nitely, addressing new tortoise manage- 1800s but late 1900’s. On sections of north Kel- to available federal funds. All the resurfaced baker Road, small sticks and larger stones can paved roads will then be placed on a multi-year ment issues as they arise. November 59°F / 41°F 73°F / 46°F still be seen locked in pavement that was made cyclic re-treatment program, again subject to using the macadam method. Macadam paving available funding. “It’s not just for the Preserve and other is effective in light traffic areas and costs less December 50°F / 34°F 62°F / 34°F parks administered by the Park Service, to use than the bituminous concrete (asphalt) All that brings a smile to my face. but for tortoises found on BLM lands and pavement that is now widely used. Average 8.5 inches 3.37 inches in Fish and Wildlife reserves, too,” she Annual Precipitation said. “It’s for the recovery of the species.”

Mojave National Preserve 5 Camping & Backcountry Travel NPS COLLECTION

Friends and family enjoy the spectacular setting of Hole-in-the-Wall Campground.

Backcountry Guidelines & Regulations Campgrounds

Backcountry travel and camping—backpacking, roadside camping, Hole-in-the-Wall Campground and horsepacking—require careful planning in order to ensure a Facilities: pit toilets, trash receptacles, potable water, fire rings, picnic tables, dump sta- safe and rewarding experience. Visitors should adhere to National tion; no utility hookups. Park Service regulations and are further encouraged to follow Leave Fees: $12 per site per night, $6 for America the Beautiful Senior/Access Pass holders. No Trace guidelines to minimize their impact on the fragile desert Reservations: not accepted; campsites available on a first-come, first-served basis. NPS COLLECTION environment. Additional regulations apply for roadside camping At 4,400 feet in elevation, Hole-in-the-Wall Campground is surrounded by sculptured (see below) and horsepacking (talk with a park ranger or visit us volcanic rock walls and makes a great basecamp for hikers (see p.7) and for exploring online for more information: www.nps.gov/moja). nearby Mitchell Caverns in the Providence Mountains State Recreation Area. Thirty- five campsites accommodate RVs and tents; two walk-in sites are also available. Leave No Trace principles are rooted in scientific studies and common sense. The message is framed under seven Leave No Trace Mid Hills Campground Principles presented below with accompanying regulations and Facilities: pit toilets, trash receptacles, potable water, fire rings, picnic tables; no guidelines specific to Mojave National Preserve: dump station or utility hookups. Fees: $12 per site per night, $6 for America the Beautiful Senior/Access Pass holders. 1. Plan Ahead and Prepare Reservations: not accepted; campsites available on a first-come, first-served basis. •There is no permit or registration system for backcountry The Hackberry Fire swept through the Mid Hills area in June 2005, burning much of camping at Mojave National Preserve; be sure to notify others of the vegetation. About half of the 26 campsites were left unharmed, however—they your travel itinerary. remain surrounded by pinyon pine and juniper trees. At 5,600 feet in elevation, Mid •Few established trails exist; carry a good map and familiarize Hills is much cooler than the desert floor below. The access road is unpaved and is not yourself with desert travel and survival skills before beginning

recommended for motorhomes or trailers. COLLECTION NPS your trip. Black Canyon Equestrian & Group Campground 2. Travel and Camp on Durable Surfaces Facilities: corrals, pit toilets, trash receptacles, potable water, fire ring, grill, picnic •Reuse existing campsites (required for roadside camping—see shelter with tables. below). Fees: $25 per group per night. •Do not make camp in a dry wash—flash floods develop quickly Reservations: required; call 760-928-2572 or 760-252-6104 in the desert. Located across the road from Hole-in-the-Wall Information Center. Ideal for both •Camping is limited to a maximum of 14 consecutive days per large groups and for riders - bring your own horse! Permits required for large groups visit/stay and 30 total days per year. (see p.2 for permit information). •Campsites must be more than 200 yards from any water source. NPS COLLECTION •Camping is not permitted: within 1/4 mile of any paved road; within 1/2 mile of Fort Piute or Kelso Depot; within 1 mile north Nearby Camping Areas (i.e., the crest of the dunes) or 1/4 mile south of the Kelso Dunes access road. (Exceptions may apply for roadside Afton Canyon camping—see below.) 25 miles southwest of Baker on I-15, has a BLM campground with tables and fire rings for $6 per night.

3. Dispose of Waste Properly Commercial camping is also available at Baker, Barstow, Needles, and Nipton, Calif. •Store all food and garbage in a manner that will prevent access by wildlife. Carry plastic bags and pack out all trash. Inside Mojave National Preserve, Mojave Desert Outpost is a private campground on Lanfair Road. For infor- •Bury human waste in catholes 6-8 inches deep, at least 200 mation call 951-780-3179 or check www.mojavedesertoutpost.com. feet from water, camp, and trails. Pack out all toilet paper and hygiene products. •Pet excrement must be collected and disposed of in garbage receptacles. Roadside Camping 4. Leave What You Find Roadside vehicle camping is permitted in areas that have been traditionally used for this purpose. •Disturbing, defacing, or collecting plants, ani- By reusing existing sites, you help protect the desert from further damage. Sites with existing rock mals, rocks, and historic or archeological objects is fire rings should be considered disturbed and suitable for roadside camping. Many roadside campcamp- prohibited. As part of our national heritage, these ing sites cannot accommodate multiple vehicles; please don’t enlarge them. Do not camp along resources should be left as they are found for all to paved roads or in day-use areas, and stay at least 200 yards from all water sources.

enjoy. Metal detectors are not allowed. NPS COLLECTION NPS The National Park Service encourages roadside campers to use the following, selected sites: 5. Minimize Campfire Impacts Near Kelbaker Road: Near Cima Road: •Campfires are allowed in established Rainy Day Mine Site Sunrise Rock fire rings only, or with use of a por- 15.2 miles southeast of Baker on Kelbaker 12 miles south of I-15 on the east side of Cima table firepan (be sure to pack out Road, then 0.3 miles northeast on the unsigned Road. Campsites are behind the White Cross ashes). Do not leave fires smoldering and very sandy road to the Rainy Day Mine. World War I Memorial. Trailhead for Teutonia Peak or unattended. Four-wheel drive recommended; no RVs. Trail is nearby on the opposite side of Cima Road. •Cutting or collecting any wood, in- Granite Pass cluding downed wood, is prohibited. 6.1 miles north of I-40 on Kelbaker Road, just Near Black Canyon Road: All firewood must be brought into the north of Granite Pass, then west on one of Black Canyon Road (East) preserve. several access roads. Campsites are located 4 miles south of Hole-in-the-Wall Information just north of the granite spires. High clearance Center on the east side of Black Canyon Road, 6. Respect Wildlife vehicle recommended; no RVs. above a wash and near a hill with views of the Kelso Dunes Mine Providence Mountains. Another site is located 7. Be Considerate of Other Visitors 4 miles west of Kelbaker Road on the about 4 miles further south, near rock piles. unpaved Kelso Dunes Road. One campsite This copyrighted information has been reprinted with is located south of the road, 1/4 mile past the Near Ivanpah and Cedar Canyon Roads: permission from the Leave No Trace Center for Outdoor marked trailhead. Several others are available Caruthers Canyon Ethics. For more information or materials, please visit 3/4 mile beyond, near a clump of trees. Except 5.5 miles west of Ivanpah Road on New York

www.LNT.org or call 303-442-8222. at these sites, roadside camping is prohibited Mountains Road, then 1.5 to 2.7 miles north to NPS/CHRISTINE SCHLEGEL NPS/CHRISTINE along Kelso Dunes Road (including at campsites. High clearance and four-wheel drive the trailhead). recommended; no RVs.

6 Mojave National Preserve Hiking NPS COLLECTION

Sweeping vistas and opportunities for solitude are a part of every hike in Mojave. Options range from short loop trails to all day cross-country hikes.

Although there are few established hiking trails in Mojave National Preserve, abandoned dirt roads, washes, and ridge lines offer an abundance of cross-country hiking opportunities. Numbers on map PRIMM Repairs are underway show general locations of trails and routes listed below. at Mitchell Caverns Nipton Road All trails and routes listed below are shown on the National Geographic Trails Illustrated topographic map for Mojave National NIPTON SEARCHLIGHT Providence Mountains State Rec- Preserve. This and other maps are available for purchase at all reation Area, home to Mitchell Cima Road Ivanpah Road information centers (see page 2 for locations and other info.). NEVADA Caverns, is a California State Park CALIFORNIA located within the boundaries of

Star Mine Road 12 Mojave National Preserve. State 15 2 95 park officials shut down operations Morning 10 BAKER Kelbaker there in January 2011. Employee CIMA 11 retirements coincided with the de-

Road (4 x 4) 163 velopment of serious problems with Mojave Cedar Canyon the water system, and state officials 1 ZZYZX Road Mid Hills 8 Road 13 decided to close the park until the

5 system could be repaired. 6 Road 3 Lanfair Road Kelso Cima Road 4 Hole-in-the-Wall KELSO Meanwhile, shortfalls in the Cali-

Kelbaker Road fornia state budget led lawmakers in Providence Mountains State GOFFS Sacramento to ask that state agencies Rec Area Black Canyon identify possible budget cuts. In May 7 Essex Road 2011, California State Parks re- FENNER leased a closure list, and Providence 9 Mountains was among the 70 parks 40 included. While other parks targeted for the closure were able to remain

NPS COLLECTION NPS open with support from non-profit Developed Trails organizations, California State Parks officials decided not to invest in -re pairs to Providence Mountains State 1) Lake Tuendae Nature Trail 6) Barber Peak Loop Trail 10) Keystone Canyon Trailhead: Zzyzx parking area, 5 miles south of Trailhead: Hole-in-the-Wall Picnic Area, beyond Start: 18 miles south of Nipton Road on Ivanpah Recreation Area’s infrastructure I-15 on Zzyzx Road. Hole-in-the-Wall Information Center. The Road, then 2.5 miles west on an unmarked during a time of shrinking budgets, Enjoy an easy, self-guided, 1/4-mile stroll around preserve’s newest trail, this 6-mile loop encircles dirt road. Bear left at the first fork, right at the so the park remained closed. Lake Tuendae. Wayside exhibits along the trail Barber Peak just west of Hole-in-the-Wall second, then continue to a parking area. reveal the rich cultural and natural history of this Campground, passes the Opalite Cliffs, and Four-wheel drive recommended. Mitchell Caverns was initially devel- oasis on the preserve’s western boundary. returns to Hole-in-the-Wall via Banshee Canyon. Hike the deteriorating road into Keystone oped as a privately operated tourist Canyon, ascending the New York Mountains. attraction by Jack and Ida Mitchell 2) Teutonia Peak Trail 7) Kelso Dunes Continue cross-country to the top of the ridge in the early 1930s. Jack Mitchell died Trailhead: 12 miles south of I-15, or 5 miles Start: 3 miles west of Kelbaker Road on the for spectacular views. Hike is 3 miles one way. in 1954, and his family turned the north of Cima, Calif. on Cima Road. well-graded, but unpaved Kelso Dunes Road. property over to the state. Provi- Explore the world’s densest Joshua tree forest Hikers at sunrise and sunset are treated to both 11) Caruthers Canyon dence Mountains State Recreation en route to a rocky peak with expansive views cooler temperatures and the rose-colored glow Start: Primitive campsites in Caruthers Area was added to the California of Cima Dome and beyond. 3 miles round-trip. of the dunes. The roughly 3-mile round-trip hike Canyon, 5.5 miles west of Ivanpah Road on might take several hours as you slog through New York Mountains Road, then 2.7 miles State Park system in 1956. 3) Hole-in-the-Wall Nature Trail the sand, then slide down the slopes. north on unsigned road. Four-wheel drive Trailhead: Hole-in-the-Wall Information Center recommended. Over the years, California State Parks and Campground, 20 miles north of I-40 on 8) Rock Spring Loop Trail Hike on an abandoned road through a rocky has made many improvements to Essex and Black Canyon roads. The 1 mile loop trail starts at the Rock House basin. Mine shafts and abandoned structures the caverns, including the develop- Learn to identify desert plants on this easy, 1/2- and leads to a well-known watering hole and are on private property. Do not enter or climb ment of a safe pathway through the mile round-trip hike. Trailheads at Hole-in-the- site of an 1860s military outpost. Trail starts at on them as they are unstable and dangerous. caverns, a tunnel connecting the two Wall Information Center and Campground. Rock House, 5 miles east of Black Canyon Road principal caves, and installation of a on Cedar Canyon Road. 12) Castle Peaks Corridor lighting system. However, the remote 4) Rings Loop Trail Start: 4.9 miles east of Ivanpah Road on signed location of the caverns and the lack Trailhead: Hole-in-the-Wall Information Center Recommended Routes Hart Mine Road; left at fork, then 0.9 miles, of a connection to the electrical grid parking area, 20 miles north of I-40 on Essex Warning: the routes described below are left at fork, then 3.4 miles, crossing an earthen have contributed to the difficulties and Black Canyon roads. not established trails; trailheads might berm; left at fork, then 1 mile more to where Discover how Hole-in-the-Wall got its name as be unidentifiable or nonexistent. Check a road ends. Four-wheel drive recommended. in the operation and maintenance of you ascend narrow Banshee Canyon with the detailed map or guidebook—available at For excellent views of the Castle Peak spires, the caverns. help of metal rings mounted in the rock. The 1 all information centers—and consult a park walk 4 miles one way up the closed road to the mile round-trip hike connects to the Mid Hills to ranger for route information. ridgetop and beyond into a small canyon. The state budget has stabilized over Hole-in-the-Wall Trail abd Barber Peak Loop Trail the past year, and work has begun to (see below). 9) Quail Basin 13) Piute Creek repair and renovate housing, the visi- Start: 12.5 miles north of I-40 on Kelbaker Start: 9.5 miles east of the junction of Lanfair tor center, and electrical and water 5) Mid Hills to Hole-in-the-Wall Trail Road, then 1 mile east on an unmarked dirt Valley and Cedar Canyon roads on a dirt utility systems. With new investment in this Trailheads: Across the road from the entrance to road. Park at junction with closed dirt road road, then 0.5 miles north. High clearance and unique and remote holding of the Mid Hills Campground, and about 2 miles west four-wheel drive recommended. heading south. High clearance and four- California State Park system, officials of Black Canyon Road on the south end of Wild wheel drive recommended. Hike 6.5 miles round-trip through colorful Piute hope to reopen Mitchell Caverns for Horse Canyon Road. Follow the route to the south to a road that Gorge and explore the ruins of Fort Piute, built tours in 2014. Hike 8 miles, one-way, through a maze of loops around a small valley. After walking the and manned in the 1860s to protect mail and washes decorated with barrel and cholla cacti, loop, return via the same route. The 6.5-mile travelers on the Mojave Road. A perennial then through the Hackberry Fire burned area. round-trip route leads past jumbled rocks into stream near the fort, rare in the Mojave, sup- Total elevation gain from south to north is 1,200 a small valley of Mojave yucca and juniper sur- ports riparian plants and animals. Return to your feet. Watch carefully for trail route markers. rounded by granite outcroppings. vehicle via an unused trace of the Mojave Road.

Mojave National Preserve 7

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L 29km 18mi L

E Y 22km 56km 32km 14mi 35mi 20mi 95

5mi 8km US Federal government jobs US Federal government Leave No Trace Desert California information Wilderness Desert Discovery Center Desert Tortoise data and information DesertUSA wildflower reports Sweeney Granite Mtns. Desert Research Ctr. Bureau of Land Management CSU Desert Studies Center (Zzyzx) store) Western National Parks Association (book- Providence Mountains State Recreation Area Lake Mead National Recreation Area Joshua Tree National Park Death Valley National Park Mojave National Preserve National Park Service Website Directory Providence Mountains State Recreation Area Lake Mead National Recreation Area Joshua Tree National Park Death Valley National Park Calico Ghost Town Bureau of Land Mgmt. - Needles Field Office Bureau of Land Mgmt. - Barstow Field Office Anza Borrego Desert State Park Nearby Parklands Hole-in-the-Wall Information Center Hole-in-the-Wall Fire Center The Beanery @ Kelso (lunch room) Center Kelso Depot Visitor Barstow Headquarters Office Mojave National Preserve San Bernardino County Sheriff - Needles San Bernardino County Sheriff - Baker Federal Interagency Communications Center Emergency 911 Telephone Directory

Mileages Mojave National Pr U.S. National Park Service www.usajobs.opm.gov www.lnt.org www.californiadesert.gov www.wilderness.net www.discoverytrails.org/welcome1.html www.deserttortoise.gov www.desertusa.com/wildflo/wildupdates http://nrs.ucop.edu/Sweeney-Granite.htm www.blm.gov http://biology.fullerton.edu/dsc/ www.wnpa.org http://www.parks.ca.gov/?page_id=615 www.nps.gov/lame www.nps.gov/jotr www.nps.gov/deva www.nps.gov/moja www.nps.gov 760-928-2586 702-293-8990 760-367-5500 760-786-2331 760-254-2122 760-326-7000 760-252-6000 760-767-4205 760-928-2572 760-252-6104 or 760-928-2573 760-252-6165 760-252-6108 760-252-6100 760-326-9200 760-733-4448 909-383-5651 Department of the Interior eserve