Pinot Noir Pinot Barbecue
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JUNE 2014 DANIEL AND RAPHAËL VÉZINA FATHER’S DAY BARBECUE PINOT NOIR GREAT THE WORLD OVER 30 NEW WINES IN STORES MAY 29 AND JUNE 12 PUBLICITE FINAL-ang - DEC 2013_Layout 1 13-12-11 11:43 AM Page 1 IN STORES MAY 29 AND JUNE 12 30 newly arrived wines. DIRECTOR – SPECIALTY PRODUCTS BUSINESS UNIT – SAQ Michel-André St-Jean MANAGER FOR SPECIALITY PRODUCTS, MARKETING – SAQ Sophie Drouin PUBLISHER – SAQ Johanne Morrisseau CONTRIBUTORS – SAQ Marie-Lyne Alarie, Éric Bertoldi, Carole Boulais, Liette Chaput, CONTENTS François Couture, Geneviève D’Autray Tarte, Maxime Desjardins, François Fortier, Simon Gaudreault-Rouleau, Pierre Lauzon, Sébastien Leblanc, Stéphane Leroux, Martin De Lottinville, Marie-Ève Meunier, Marika Milo, Julie Perreault, Jean-Mathieu Pilon, JUNE 2014 Veronica Ruiz, Alain Smith Médias Transcontinental S.E.N.C. PUBLISHER – VICE PRESIDENT, CONSUMER SOLUTIONS Lise Paul-Hus EDITORIAL DIRECTOR 4 DANIEL AND RAPHAËL VÉZINA Catherine Elie Up close with the father-and-son chefs. ART DIRECTOR Renée Grégoire LIFESTYLE EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Josée Larivée 12 GIN Comeback of a classic. EDITORIAL STAFF Myriam Huzel, Pascale Navarro CONTRIBUTORS Rémy Charest, Hélène Dion, Véronique Rivest 14 PINOT NOIR COPY EDITORS Wines without borders. Joan Irving, Donna Jensen TRANSLATOR Felicity Munn 20 NEW ZEALAND ART The next chapter. Graphic artists Christiane Gauthier, Julie Larocque, Davor Nikoli DIGITAL PRE-PRESS SERVICES “ORIGINE QUÉBEC” LOUISE SAVOIE. PHOTO: Sylvain Renaud (General Manager) 28 Robert Bourcier (Production Manager, Advertising and Coordination) Vignoble du Marathonien. ON THE COVER Linda Desjardins (Production Coordinator) Daniel and Raphaël Vézina discuss their wine Jules Alexandre Obry (Production Manager, Creative and Content) 514-643-2319 29 NEW ARRIVALS preferences over a Father’s Day barbecue. ADVERTISING SALES Details on our specially Sabrina Boucher – SAQ selected new releases. 514-254-6000, ext. 5115 SAQ CUSTOMER SERVICE Montreal area: 514-254-2020 Elsewhere in Quebec: 1-866-873-2020 PRINTING TC Imprimeries Transcontinental, a division of Imprimeries Transcontinental S.E.N.C. All correspondence should be addressed to: 1100 René-Lévesque Blvd. West, 24th Floor, Montreal, Quebec, H3B 4X9, CANADA. Telephone: 514-392-9000 [email protected] CELLIER NEW ARRIVALS, published eight times a year, is produced and published by TC media (www.tc.tc), in association with the following SAQ departments: Marketing; Purchasing and Merchandising; Communications; Quality Management; Sales and Legal UPCOMING EVENTS Services. SAQ headquarters is located at 905 De Lorimier Avenue, Montreal, Quebec, H2K 3V9. CELLIER is a registered trademark of the Société des alcools du Québec. • SALON PRINTANIER DES VINS DE CARLETON – MAY 22 Any reproduction of articles, illustrations or photographs is strictly prohibited. Prices • FESTIVAL DES FROMAGES FINS DE VICTORIAVILLE – JUNE 12 TO 15 for products in the magazine are subject to change without notice. Legal Deposit: • FESTIVAL DES VINS DE SAGUENAY – CHICOUTIMI – JULY 10 TO 12 Bibliothèque nationale du Québec, National Library of Canada. ISSN 1911-2238. Publications Mail Agreement 40064963. Return undeliverable addresses to CELLIER, 905 De Lorimier, Montreal, Que. H2K 3V9. Limited quantities. No layaways are permitted until the Monday following the release of products. Prices are subject to change without notice. June 2014 3 LIKE FATHER, LIKEDaniel et SON Raphaël Vézina causent vin et gastronomie. Daniel and Raphaël Vézina on wine, food and family Chef Daniel Vézina is living a parent’s ultimate dream: His son Raphaël is following in his footsteps. We recently caught up with these two culinary stars. dirt road is all that separates two cork on a Mumm instead of a Cristal with Daniel and Vosne-Romanée grand cru vineyards, himself. Daniel says he understands that impulse in Richebourg and the fabled Romanée- her, “but I can’t help myself. Even when I was earning A Conti. Older vintages of Richebourg can $200 a week, I was buying impossible wines. I have go for close to $1,000 or sometimes more, a collector’s passion. Except,” he adds mischievously, depending on the year, but it’s never about the money “all I want is to open the wines. And when you share for chef Daniel Vézina when he’s recalling his most them with someone you care about, they’re even better.” memorable wine experiences. He’s had wines from both appellations but was most affected by the CONTEMPORARY CLASSICS Richebourg, specifically a 1990 vintage given to him The interview takes place in Cancun, Mexico, over a by a friend. He describes uncorking it. “I was with my Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru, a white Burgundy family. I’d cooked a roast turkey, very plain, yet still from the Côte de Beaune. The Vézinas are here to impressive. A legendary wine, sipped in such simple do a joint presentation on their culinary vision to circumstances – now that stays with you. It was the an audience of chefs, sommeliers, winemakers and greatest thing I’ve ever drunk.” This from a man who other professionals at the third annual Cancun-Riviera has had La Tâche, Cheval Blanc and other famed crus. Maya Wine & Food Festival. “A modern take on “But that time...” He pauses, looks at his son classic dishes is our angle,” explains Daniel, host inquiringly. Raphaël, also a chef, beams back at the of the TV show Les Chefs! on Radio-Canada. “And man he calls “Dan” with tongue somewhat in cheek. to demonstrate, we are presenting a traditional ham “The Richebourg was crazy good, Dan!” with pineapple, but with a modern touch, that This might leave the impression that they’re laying Raphaël created.” it on a bit thick, but they’re not. Raphaël adds seriously Gagnon talks about the verbal sparring between that he considers himself lucky to have drunk the father and son when Raphaël visits the couple at Richebourg. Whereupon Daniel smiles the smile of a their country house near Quebec City. Daniel’s credo father who has accomplished his mission. “I’m glad is: “If you don’t know your classics, you can’t create it hasn’t gone to your head, Raph. Drinking wines like anything.” Raphaël, though, likes to graft unusual ideas that is a privilege.” onto his father’s suggestions. Daniel often argues that Daniel, founder of the Laurie Raphaël restaurants it won’t work. Raphaël keeps at it, tweaks, modifies, in Quebec City and Montreal, never comes across finds solutions, executes the dish and proves that it can as pretentious when he’s talking about wine, be it indeed work. Clearly, what Daniel wants is for Raphaël Champagne – he’s madly in love with the king of to go further in his art. “I know he’ll be a much better sparkling wines – or Burgundy, “the best Pinots in chef than I am,” Daniel says proudly, “because at a the world.” But on occasion he spends more than he very young age he was exposed to many experiences probably should on wine, to the despair of his wife that I had to spend time learning for myself. Like wine, and business partner, Suzanne Gagnon. Raphaël notes for instance. I learned about wine on my own. Raph, in affectionately that Gagnon will occasionally pop the addition to his travels, studied in France. That helps.” June 2014 5 LIKE FATHER, LIKE SON (CONTINUED) The affectionate bond between Daniel and his son is obvious and helps explain why Raphaël is his own man, not defined by his father’s success. While the son is much like his father – same casual look, same charm and, it appears, same talent – Raphaël’s career path has been markedly different from Daniel’s. Born to a couturiere mother and a father who was in the military, Daniel followed his instincts and built all that he has today in partnership with Gagnon, whom he met 34 years ago. Raphaël, in contrast, began working at Laurie Raphaël when he was around 12, “maybe even earlier,” muses Daniel, who had Raphaël polishing copper pots, telling him that if he was good enough, he might be promoted to dishwashing. “My father never pushed me,” Raphaël recalls, “but he put incentives in my path.” “Raph wanted to be a mechanic,” Daniel says, “and one day I said to him that it was fine if he wanted to I can often find something to my taste in natural wines spend his life with his hands in grease, but it was a lot because they’re interesting, surprising and affordable. more fun to have your hands in chocolate!” Raphaël A red wine that’s almost pink calls my name! When smiles. He remembers this. But his epiphany didn’t I go to my parents’ place, on the other hand, the thrill come until later: “We were with your family, Dan, in is that Dan cooks for us, and that he goes to the the dining room of the Quebec City restaurant,” he tells wine cellar to pick out something to drink. And I his father. “It was a Sunday. I was watching through know it’s going to be awesome. He opens some the window as the pastry brigade worked, and I phenomenal bottles.” remember thinking, ‘I’d rather be with them.’ It was the team spirit – a whole group of people working on BURGUNDY LOVE AFFAIR one creation – that struck me. That was the moment One day on the Quebec City-Montreal drive, Daniel I realized that I wanted to work in kitchens”. offered Raphaël the option of studying overseas. The rest is history. Raphaël went from commis to Three years later, the young chef had a diploma in demi-chef de partie, then to chef de partie, then to restaurant management from Lycée Paul Augier in sous-chef, and finally to chef de cuisine. “At 21, I was Nice.