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SDSU Extension Fact Sheets SDSU Extension

1970

Keys to Buymanship: Men's Clothing

Cooperative Extension South Dakota State University

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Recommended Citation South Dakota State University, Cooperative Extension, "Keys to Buymanship: Men's Clothing" (1970). SDSU Extension Fact Sheets. 1173. https://openprairie.sdstate.edu/extension_fact/1173

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MEN's cloTlti

By Elizabeth K. Easton, extension clothing specialist

When you're in public, only about 5 per cent of themselves! Women, then, must help men of the you shows! family look well-dressed for work, business, or lei­ The rest of your body is encased in clothes. Pack­ sure. aging is often a determining factor in the purchase Two main types of clothing will be considered: of an item. What about your outer covering? Is your work clothes and dress or business clothes, including "packaging" a help or a handicap? suits and sportswear. When we judge people by their clothing, our Qualities commonly sought in clothing vary with judgment probably reflects our own standards· more intended use. Generally, one prefers good workman­ nearly than those of the other person. Our judgment ship, comfortable fit, durability, and easy mainte­ will never be entirely correct, for we cannot possibly nance. The final choice may be affected by the effort know the other person's· needs, his personal prefer­ or expense required to keep the garment in service. ences, or other factors affecting his choice. Quality, cut and construction often affect the ease of Clothing and styles, once almost exclusively with­ caring for a garment. in the realm of- the woman's world, with changing times have now invaded the man's world as well. KNOW FABRICS Designers and manufacturers have helped with more Care and durability are related to fiber content interesting styles, better fabrics, and a much wider and construction of the fabric. The wise shopper be­ choice. The new emphasis brings the consumer and comes acquainted with various fibers and their char­ his-or her-buying skills into the picture. This pub­ acteristics (see Fact Sheet 473). Many fabric and gar­ lication is designed to help the consumer of men's ment manufacturers provide excellent information clothing by providing guides about fabrics, fits, work­ about their products. Make it a habit to buy garments manship, selection, coordination, and use. that are accompanied by complete and useful infor­ mation. RECOGNIZE SPECIFIC NEEDS Whatever the occupation of the man of the house, BE SIZE WISE some consideration needs to be given to the clothes he Fit is an important quality in all garments. Outer buys, not only from the standpoint of style or fash­ garments should fit the body comfortably without ion, but for comfort and durability too. During the being tight or baggy or becoming excessively wrin­ first half of the 20th century, fashion in men's cloth­ kled when the wearer walks, sits, bends, or reaches. ing changed less frequently than women's. Perhaps All garments should be cut straight with the grain of one reason was his determination not to sacrifice the fabric for comfort and durability as well as fit. comfort for fashion. However, changes in working The interpretation of "tight" or "baggy" varies with conditions, more leisure time, and greater emphasis type of garment, purpose for which it will be worn, or on men's fashions in the press have all had an impact current fashion. Size varies too, but is standardized on men's interest jn clothes and in dressing fashion­ for each type of garment. Finally, clothing should ably and correctly. give pleasure or satifaction to the wearer as well as to those who see him. BE A DISCRIMINATING SHOPPER When it comes to buying men's clothing, its the LOOK FOR SIGNS OF GOOD WORKMANSHIP women who should sharpen their wits. Few men Work Shirts: like to shop, many have less time for it. Women de­ Fabric: comfortable to wear, smooth, absorbent, cide or offer suggestions on about a third of men's wrinkle-free and resistant to shrinkage. outer clothing. Some wives buy most of their hus­ Cut: full and roomy with plenty of ease, particu­ band's clothing. Women must learn to spend cloth­ larly in the elbow. ing dollars wisely for men as well as children and Seams: smooth, felled, or double-needle stitched with 14-16 stitches per inch. Shirt body is tapered or shaped for a smoother Back yoke: double and deep. look at waistline. Pockets: securely attached and roomy. Shoulders are sloped. Center front pleat (if present): double stitched. Tails should be long enough to stay in. Collar: smooth, fitting the neck smoothly with- out binding or gapping. ( Quality Fabric) Cuffs: double, interfaced, and double-stitched. Fine, evenly woven fabric in either basic or novel­ Sleeve placket: continuous and set in such a way ty shirtings. that no tucks or wrinkles occur. Color should be uniform. Buttons: sewed securely. To assist the shopper in buying garments which Buttonholes: firm and smooth. will perform well, the label should indicate such fea­ Shirt tail: generous, shaped, and .finished with tures as: smooth, narrow hem. ► Shrinkage control ► Wear resistance Work Pants or Sportswear ► Colorfastness Seams: serged or clean-finished throughout and ► Special ·finishes, if any pressed flat; allowances in seat back generous all the ► Laundry instruction way down to allow for letting out. Suits Crotch seam: reinforced at point where it joins Pattern carefully sized for comfort and free action, inseam, with no V-shaped inserts at the crotch. including generous allowances at all outlet seams. Back rise seam: two-needle, tandem-stitched, with All parts cut on grain with plaids, checks, or bar tacking or other reinforcement at all points of stripes precisely matched crosswise and lengthwise. strain. There should be no piecings. Places to check for Pockets: deep, roomy, of sturdy fabric, and matching: double-stitched for added strength. ► Center back seam of coat Fly: faced, not folded back, with underfacing ex­ ► Side seams tending over the crotch seam to give smoothness and ► Armhole seams durability. ► Where edges of collar rolls over and Waistband: interlined to prevent curling with meets coat in back lining meeting at center back for easy alteration and ► Front closing smooth fit. A waistband lining cut on the bias fits ► Pocket openings better. ► Collar notches Handwork is done with close, even, secure and Shirts neat stitches. (Style and Construction Features) Shoulders slightly built up but natural looking. Permanent shape is tailored in collars by careful Front edges firm, thin, and sharp with seam roll­ cutting and sewing. Collar points perfectly matched. ed slightly to the inside. The top fold of the sleeve on grain of fabric to Armholes firm. prevent twisting. Lapels always roll back, never forward. V-line Generous-width aUowances-iliroughout. formed b-y--lapd set dose to -the body regardless of Double yoke absorbs strain. It should be seamed how the wearer bends or moves. straight and even with short stitches. Squeeze the coat front in your hand. If materials All seams should lie flat for better wear and ap­ and workmanship inside are of high quality, the coat pearance. front will feel soft and springy, will resume it's shape Buttonholes clean-cut for strength and good ap­ quickly when released. pearance with no thread ends showing. In "summer" or strictly washable suits or the "un­ Pockets matched exactly with pattern, plaids, structured" suit, coat-front construction is much sim­ stripes, for good appearance. Pockets neatly applied pler. Linings and paddings are reduced to a mini­ and reinforced give added durability. mum or omitted if the suiting has good body. Plaids, checks, and stripes matched across the Pocket Openings should be reinforced with light­ shirt front. weight material securely tacker to coat foundation. The way a sleeve hangs is a visible guide to work­ (Size and Fit) manship. A good sleeve is set so that it bisects the side Sufficient sleeve width at armhole to allow free­ pocket-that is, the front of the sleeve comes to the dom, then gradually tapering toward cuff, if long middle of the pocket as it hangs naturally. A well-s·et sleeve. sleeve reduces wear. Lining should be smooth-fitting and invisibly THE STYLE ZONE hand-stitched. A small fold at the lower edge pro­ Shirt, tie, and lapel often determine the impres­ vides give. It should be high enough to avoid showing sion a man makes. Ties are always worn with conven­ below the edge of the coat. tional suits. Knot size is determined by collar style. Buttonholes should have close, even stitching on Pattern and color should coordinate with the suit. the underside as well as on the top. A firm edge and Suit jackets hug the neck at the back, showing well-reinforced ends are clues to high quality. half an inch or more of the shirt collar, depend4ig on Trousers should set up well around the waistband fashion. The bottom button of a single-breasted jack­ with sufficient belt support evenly spaced and neatly et is never fastened. The lower edge of the jacket al­ applied. There should be allowance for adjustment ways covers the seat. Shirt cuffs end at the wrist of the back rise seam. The fly should be reinforced bone. -Jacket sleeve length should be one-quarter to with good curtain waistband construction. Bias darts one-half inch shorter than a long-sleeved shirt. The from the waistband down to the back pocket give a well-dressed man always has "linen" showing at the shapely line. Trousers should hang straight from the wrist when wearing a conventional long-sleeved waist with back and front creases on grain of the shirt. Trouser legs hang straight in the back. The ex­ fabric. Legs should be just long enough to break at act length varies depending on style. Hose always the instep in most styles·. The crotch should be deeply "cover," even when the legs are crossed! curved for comfort and smoothness. One of the most common problems is combining A well-fitted suit not only looks and feels better, textures and stripes, plaids and prints. Here are four but it wears better and costs less for upkeep than one points that can help: which fits poorly. Manufacturers have developed a wide range of sizes and size variations. Better suits are 1. Relate color. If you choose a plaid jacket and fuller cut than poorer grades. Therefore, the same striped tie, repeat one or more of the same col­ man may not always wear the same size, depending, ors in both. on quality. The make or style of a suit may also influ­ 2. Relate line. Plaids and stripes both have ence fit. Try on different makes to determine which straight lines. If you have curved lines in one looks best on you. To insure a good, comfortable fit_, item, repeat them in another. try on the whole suit then check how it feels in action. 3. Keep textures in scale. If the plaid is big, the Walk, step up or down, flex your arms, bend, sit cros·s stripe should be wide. your knees. 4. The collar is a frame for the face, so choose a Minor alterations are to be expected. However, style with that in mind. Fashions change, but shortening the coat or resetting the sleeves is never ad­ generally the man with the longer face wears a visable. The suit that needs many alterations might wide spread collar better. Slim faces and necks prompt other considerations, such as a "made-to­ usually go together and a shorter pointed col­ measure" or "custom-tailored" suit. Standards for lar with a high rise sets them off best. A man making customized suits vary, so there is a wide with a short neck and round face looks best in range in quality and price just as in ready-to-wear. long, pointed collars.

WHEN IT'S ALL SAID AND DONE ... _____

Buy according to need. Consider suitability of the garment. Decide on price range before you shop. Shop around ... compare. Shop in stores having a reputation for quality mer­ chandise and good customer relations. Take advantage of sales. Issued in furtherance of Cooperative Extension work, Acts of May 8 and June 30, 1914, in cooperation with the USDA Dakota State University . Hollis D. Hall, Di~ector of Cooperative Extension Service, South , Brookings. Educational programs and materials offered without regard to age, Employer. race, color, religion, sex, handicap or national origin. An Equal Opportunity File: 13.1-10-3M-75-3,000 reprinted at estimated 6 cents each-3-79mb-3688A

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