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Home , Seam (sewing)

Convertible Construction; no back 6. Fold the facing ends back over the clips at the ends of the previous stitching, and the clipped upper-collar edge away from the back , then the under collar to the neckline with edges aligned and the Variation 1: Seam Allowances Switch at Shoulder Seams CB notches matched, back-stitching and up with the front neckline stitchings at each end. ¼” seam allowances unless otherwise indicated

Preliminary steps: Fronts and back joined at shoulders; shoulder seams nished. Facings interfaced with edges nished, and joined CB to fronts if separately. Neckline stay-stitched and clipped if desired. Collar layers joined at outer edges and turned; topstitched Under Collar if desired. Marked: Collar at CB, neckline at CB and Collar Ends/Center Fronts.

1. under collar only to right side of neckline at CB Upper Collar matching raw edges. Make sure the collar ends match or are equidistant from the markings in front. OPTIONAL: Pin or baste both collar layers to the CB 7. Before tuning the facings right 8. Turn the facings and collar to the right side, then tuck front-neckline edges (forward from the shoulder side out, go back to the clippings the exposed, pointed clipped corners of all layers, seams), and just the under-collar edge between the at each shoulder seam and clip along with the back-neck seam allowances, up inside shoulder seams (back neckline); leave the upper collar again at the same point and angle the collar, folding the upper-collar so edge free along the back neckline in either case. See through the previously unclipped it just covers the back-neckline seam. Pinless at dirtk for details. layers. Upper Collar seam allowance 2. Fold facings to the right side along fold lines, sandwiching Upper Collar the collar layers inside. The folded-under facing ends should align with and meet the shoulder seams. Under Collar

Back Facing

At each front edge…

3. … align the collar raw edges with 4. Stitch to about ⁄” from the 5. Clip at an angle like that shown here, Shoulder seam the facing and front edges. folded end of the facing and catching just the upper collar and the allowances . facing and ending at the end of the stitching. 9. With the upper collar seam allowance aligned with and just covering the under-collar seamline, edgestitch the collar through all layers from the right (under-collar) side starting and ending just to the front of the shoulder seam, backstitching at start and end. Convertible Collar Construction; no back facing Option 1, Overcasting: Variation 2: Overcast or Bound Seam Allowances at Back Neckline 1. Align the collar raw edges with the 2. Overcast or serge together the raw 3. Turn collar and facings right side neckline edges as you stitch from edges at the back neckline out, press allowances towards , Options: front to front through all layers. between the ends of the facings. then secure overcast edge by 1. Back neckline overcast 2. Back neckline bound 3. Back neckline bound stitching from shoulder seam to with bias self- or with tape seam ⁄” from the neckline. lining fabric

Options 2 & 3, :

1. Cut binding from either bias fabric 2. Align the collar raw edges with (self or lighter-weight as preferred) the neckline edges as you ¼” seam allowances unless otherwise indicated or tape (twill or other with selvedge stitch from front to front edges) 1” longer than back through all layers. Preliminary steps: Fronts and back joined at shoulders; shoulder seams nished. Facing edges nished, interfaced neckline seam. Press bias in half Insert bias or tape as shown if needed, and joined to fronts if cut separately. Neckline stay-stitched and clipped if desired (usually not needed lengthwise, wrong sides together. when you get to the facing with ¼” seam allowances; see Pinless Sewing at dirtk for details on proceeding without clipping as shown). Collar edge, catching all layers layers joined at outer edges and turned; topstitched if desired. ½” including insertion along the Marked: Collar at CB, neckline at CB and Collar Ends/Center Fronts. full back neckline. Place the bias with raw edges 1⁄” against the neck edge. 1. Pin both collar layers to right side of neckline at CB 2. Fold facings to the right side along fold or Place the tape with free edge matching raw edges. Make sure the collar ends seam lines, sandwiching the collar layers (For easiest handling, spray-starch extending beyond the neck match or are equidistant from the markings in front. inside. The folded-under facing ends should fabric before cutting bias strip.) edge. OPTIONAL: Pin or baste collar layers to the neckline align with and meet the shoulder seams. edge. See Pinless Sewing at dirtk for details on 3. Turn out the collar and facing, and grade the seam allowances at the back neck. Pull the bias folded edge or the proceeding without or basting as shown. tape’s free edge snug over the allowances and edgestitch parallel to the neckline from shoulder to shoulder catching the facing’s folded edges.

CB